Is Lucas Oil Stabilizer good for motorcycles? Wet Clutch Slip?
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- čas přidán 6. 09. 2024
- I usually don't use Lucas Pure Synthetic Oil Stabilizer. I learned something new from this experiment.
My Yamaha WR250R has very high demands on it's motor oil so I have been trying different things to get more use out of it. It goes from 10w-40 to 5w-20 in just 1000 miles and at that point, that's just terrible protection. I've been trying to find oil which supports both my wet clutch and the engine to a greater distance.
In fact, watching this video, makes me think that would I should have tried is Lucas's oil Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer which wasn't for medium weight synethetic oils like the more modern synthetic is. I noticed on the shelf now is actually an even thinner Lucas Oil Stabilizer, which is designed for modern engines. Clearly straight 40 weight in any quantity would be really hard on VVT type systems which requires oil to pressurize through much tinier openings than what oil was asked to do in the past. Thus, all the new thinner oils in modern cars.
A thin oil in my Yamaha would be a disaster. See my related video where I learned what synthetic oils, even JASO MA & MA2 approved for wet clutch oils does to my Yamaha: • Yamalube Oil vs. Castr...
So, at just 1 oz. of the synthetic oil stabilizer, I'm getting marginal increases of viscosity. But I can't do more...trying 2 oz. made my clutch slip so bad I was afraid 10 minutes into my commute, that I wouldn't be getting to my job. It was about 2nds of my life, but it was a very high stress, thinking, my experiments have cost me being on time for work!
This information should be very similar from for 2008 to 2019 Yamaha WR250R motorcycles, but the engine was changed a bit in about 2015 so earlier models may be effected a bit differently. In this video, other than the additive, I've only shown JASO MA and MA2 oils. This means that they are approved for wet clutch use.
In another year of owning this motorcycle, I'm thinking this brand new motorcycle just never had strong springs on it's clutch. I'm going to upgrade it when I change my clutch and see if my life gets easier, I don't have to change the oil every 2 weeks of riding, and I can just run synthetics which keep their viscosity up and protect the engine at the maximum for the longest.
In the use of Castrol 10w-40 I was not getting more than 1k miles of an oil change interval or OCI. That's SO little. That's why I considered oil additives. That and I use Lucas Pure Syntheric Oil Stabilizer so little that it's kind of just sitting around.
In the search for the best oil for my motorcycle, I'm trying my hand at Sheel 15w-40 next. My Yamaha WR250R calls for 10w-40, so I mixed it down a bit, but I'm seriously starting to think to have more range, I just need to start with something higher. Maybe even 15w-50.
Safety message:
Due to factors beyond the control of DE Nichols/AutoBravado, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not DE Nichols/AutoBravado. #DENichols
Have you ever been riding and your proverbial jaw drops because your motorcycle isn't moving and you were doing what you've always done? Well. You'll find out why in this video I had 2 very stressful seconds thinking things like, "Will I ever get to work? Is saving money on my motorcycle for my commute a really bad idea today?"
Problem solved! Watch the video. More is coming, but until I do...
...A thin oil in my Yamaha would be a disaster. See my related video where I learned what synthetic oils, even JASO MA & MA2 approved for wet clutch oils does to my Yamaha: czcams.com/video/MEV9NMXSOqg/video.html
I use less than 1/2 a quart, never had a clutch slip or clutch lag, just use a little to keep life happy.
Yeah. I have new clutch material on my list of things to do. I don't think mine lasted very well to be so sensitive.
Might be why my oil wears out so fast too since it's all swimming in the same oil as the engine, isn't it?
My bad, I know cars much better than motorcycles. Tell me what I don't know if you don't mind.
The clutch pack, is it in the oil too or no?
We just finished the argument about Lucas. I lost. 😠 It does the job. Use it.
🤣
I hadn't considered the effects of a friction modifier like Lucas in a motorbike with a wet clutch. Very interesting.
Having had a bunch of views on it about using it on my truck some people put in some great information. I learned it was 40 viscosity. It is a tackifier. Makes oil stick to things more. It also picks up dirt which may be why I saw the oil out of the bottom of the engine look extra dirty. Clearly it is a friction modifier to the benefit of the engine if the wet clutch doesn't like it.
I've checked 3rd party sources on everything my audience has said and they are right. Someone got a camera into a differential and proved Lucas characteristics are actually hurtful. The gears are wettest with splash lubrication and tackifier hurts that.
I'd use this on my trucks engine. That video is what opened me up to learning everything above. I could hear the truck engine needing a little extra anti-wear at certain odd times of the year, I thought it'd help the motorcycle. At about 1000 miles the engine gets grumpy. It lacks power and makes gear choice extra selective. This makes the engine happier. Any friction modifier for the engine, more than the smallest amount and wet clutch slip...I can't even use synthetic oil on this motorcycle.
I found Honda HP4 Semi-synthetic worked pretty well. Not as good on the wet-clutch but the engine was happier for a LOT longer. If I could only find the footage. Lol
I look forward to upgrading the clutch springs. Maybe it'll get less sensitive to oil choices and I can change the oil less often then every 2 weeks of riding.
@@DENicholsAutoBravado FYI When Chrysler updated the clutches in the 41TE trans they updated the requirements for the trans fluid. They went from ATF3 to ATF 4. The ATF 4 is more slippery. Using ATF3 in the new trans was wiping out the clutches. The ATF3 does work but gives a harsher shift, kinda like power shifting a 4 speed, while it will work if you shift it that way every time you will have to replace your clutch sooner. So dew ya what to have a cake or eat the cake, cause ya can't have a cake if ya eat it. Therefore the term ya can't have your cake and eat it two2. That is a really dumb saying. Course I'm gonna eat the cake. I paid four4 didn't eye? Well if I wasn't gonna eat it I would never have bought it. Dang I made myself hungry. Gotta go find a cooking video or maybe make some eggs. Whatcha having at your house? Eggs? Really? I'll have mine over easy please. Have a great day guys. Happy Motoring.
@@mostlymoparih5682 my wife went deluxe since I have an interview this morning. Scrambled eggs, grilled toast with a little butter, a side of grits and half an orange. A little apple juice too.
And yes. Now I want cake. Lol
But... I'll take harsher shifts of my transmission lasts longer! What year range are we talking? True for many Chryslers or specifically the minivans?
@@DENicholsAutoBravado From 2001 on you need to use the ATF4 in the 41TE's in all models and I believe all their automatic transmissions.
in 2006, a variable line pressure hydraulic system was phased in, which boosted performance and longevity
There is a motorcycle-specific version of that oil stabilizer. I honestly know nothing about it but have seen it on the shelves.
I appreciate it but no need. I combed over the depths of the internet to find deep actual studies by scientists. I tried every oil combo, but brand new this motorcycle had a weak spring on it's clutch. That'll make it overly sensitive.
No one else had my issue with using synthetic to get more miles on the oil on this motorcycle. Just me. When I was commuting on it...far...it was tiring to change it every 3 or 4 weeks on top of fulltime work and school, but gladly I don't work so far away anymore. Lol
This additive is fine for a properly running motorcycle. It has no additives. All it does is thicken the oil. My little engine worked so hard it thinned up oil before it even got dirty so this helped a bit, but it'll do even more with a fresh clutch pack and spring or spring set. I forget. Lol
Comes all together.
Thanks for looking out! 😁👊
September? Lol. Great video brother. Some rides has a combination only the owner knows. Sounds like you’ve about dialed yours in. Have a great week.
You've got that right! And yes. I shot this video last September. With the longer cold season this year I haven't been able to ride and test much since. I have a few videos about the motorcycle ready to go. So I'll release some and hopefully more happens with the bike so I can keep releasing more.
I normally have a garage floor but Hurricane Florence had just trashed my city and I needed to change my oil before cleaning up. I'm lucky I live on high ground but I still have damage to recover. Insurance blew me off.
Fixed the roof myself but I'm learning about how to subdue Mildew and things are getting better.
That stuff has a shelf life!
I had some unopened in the shed for a few years. I was changing my rear differential fluid in the Nissan Frontier with Mobil1.
Needed just a half pint more and thought I'd put the Lucus Stabilizer in it. Luckily I went to pour a small bit on the ground first. It had turned to a cottage cheese consistency while sitting in the shed for a few years
Oh wow! Sounds like it got contaminated with water for sure!
My garage floods but my Lucas never turned on me. Be sure the bottle is sealed well and I doubt you'll ever have an issue again.
Thanks for the warning! 🤞🏻
And that was lucky. Please never put oil in the ground. It'll get in our drinking water. Use an old oil bottle which is being disposed of anyway and get it to recycling.
I feel like a Captain planet commercial, but it takes everyone to care for the planet. 👍
@@DENicholsAutoBravado Like i said above, the bottle was unopened and in my shed for a few years. This was an UNOPENED bottle. I did not indicate then nor do I now that the bottle had been under water.
@@zash008 oh alright. I was doing a little guessing trying to figure it out. I think Lucas messed up on that bottle. Maybe a whole run of them. Pretty rare, but I'm sure it happens.
It's for the best. Lucas Oil Stabilizer makes for a good toy on the shelf, but how differential fluid actually works, it isn't good. It negatively effects the splash lubrication pattern.
I have had an opened bottle in my garage for... 5 years? Maybe 6? And it's perfectly fine. i was a little short on oil the other day and used lucas to top it off. Looked completely fine to me. I think you got a bad batch or something
Oils don't need additives added today. Change the oil every 3000 4000 miles. No worries at all
That takes great care of a car engine, but this motorcycle requires more frequent changes based on my testing of it's oil. Maybe my engine wasn't built well enough but my oil analysis recommended much more frequent oil changes. 1000 miles was pushing it.
@DENicholsAutoBravado I change my motorcycle oils at 3000 miles. They are both air cooled, buy it's hot here in Florida
I rebuilt my drz and had been using Kawasaki 10w-40 the kpo brand conventional and it's super slick and stays clean smooth shifting. I put Lucas semi blend in it and I don't like it oil develops bubbles never did that with Kawasaki won't use it again I will change it the day I get paid
Whoa? BUBBLES? Unacceptable! 😯
Do you know they make a oil stabilizer meant for motorcycles, right?
I didn't! What is it?
Also, some motorcycle oils, by their consistency are made that way with no mixing needed.
Trouble with these additives is the reduce your oils other additives. It's probably why I've done so well with additives and cars.
See, what I do different is that I use less so that it helps instead of knocking down the % of all other additives.
With the transmission and engine using the same additives it makes additives which include traditional car additives a bad idea.
Long story short, all additives shares here are just oil. They aren't any of the chemicals in the additive package for the motorcycle or cars.
I didn't! What is it?
Also, some motorcycle oils, by their consistency are made that way with no mixing needed.
Trouble with these additives is the reduce your oils other additives. It's probably why I've done so well with additives and cars.
See, what I do different is that I use less so that it helps instead of knocking down the % of all other additives.
With the transmission and engine using the same additives it makes additives which include traditional car additives a bad idea.
Long story short, all additives shares here are just oil. They aren't any of the chemicals in the additive package for the motorcycle or cars.
I started putting lucas full synthetic in my kawasaki klx250 at 3000 miles with 15 percent licas and 15 percent marvel.... that makes the viscocity perfect... anyways I am at 12560 niw and i am replacing 500 dollars worth of wear components on my bike, while I was ordering I figured I moght as well take a compression test..... I ordered the most accurate compression tester I could get... I did a compression test (due ro not having a chain yet) on a bike that had not ran in two days... I did my compression test two times and the same number came out... It wasnt looking so good for the kawasaki at first thought so I hit the forums and they say the minumum runnable is 60 and it is between 90 and 125 from the factory..... Imy compression test showed 160 psi even.... both tests .... thankyou lucas not only does my bike run as smooth as a goldwing but it has made it last so long!!!
I'm glad you've had such great results! My Yamaha sure needed constant oil changes. Yamaha recommended 4k miles and I couldn't do more than 1k miles. I try to take the best care of my stuff and I can tell you do too.
Dang... I've read your comment 3 times today now. Packed with great information.
That's high compression. Is it designed for high test gas? You might want to try the high octane with that kind of compression. You may get more out of your ride.
I found that an ounce of Lucas in my 1.8 gallon tank with low test gas worked better than high test gas.
I'm talking about their octane booster. Haven't done the video about it yet. I'm in Germany pretty far from my motorcycle for a while more. This world thing has to clear up for me to come home. Can't mention it. It may demonetize me.
Marvel is horrible for lubrication. It has less lubricity than diesel fuel. There is a chart floating around about diesel additives that shows lubricity values you should google it
Yes, facts like these make me worried about using Marvel Mystery Oil as well. There are people who swear by their engine's long longevity all the time using it.
Is it possible that how it works with a complete oil is different then it works by itself?
Despite all the testimonials, I haven't been able to try it either.
Usually, as engines age, they need thicker oil, not thinner and people use it most on older engines.
The 1.8 liter engine by Toyota the, 1ZZ-FE is famous for clogged wholes in the piston which work with the oil control rings, but when clogged, make a strong oil burning situation.
I never got it, I think for using synthetic oil. Others said they fixed it using MMO. Come to think if it, I added it to an engine with thick oil in it since it had ran 297k miles plus... that year of Corolla stops reading miles about there, and it made the engine easier to start.
Why not just get a 10w40 synthetic motorcycle oil made for yr bike instead of mixing oils & wondering if its ok or not ???
Unfortunately, I already tried that and it doesn't work. My clutch was new and it didn't work. My clutch discs are due anyway so I'm going to change the springs out for something stiffer and that should fix it.
Classically, these new bikes can have weak springs.
DE Nichols if the reccomended oil does'nt work in yr bike then that would be a factory defect, i used 10w40 Mobil 1, Full Synthetic (MOTORCYCLE OIL) in my brand new Kawasaki Concours run the thing into the ground , as hard as i want to, added about 5 percent Lucas Stabilizer & not once had a problem with the clutch slipping at all, my bike holds 5 qts oil, it says to put in 10 percent, which would be half a qt. , i use 5 percent which would be a quarter of a qt. therefore im not putting in what Lucas says to, im using half ... never had a problem, this engine is the Ninja 1400 engine with a lot of torque... maybe you wete using too much Lucas in yr bike...
In fact why don't he buy lucas oil synthetic for wet clutch motorcycles with additives if he like lucas so much
Can't disagree. Transmission stopped working entirely. Factory defect.
Makes sense to me!
I'm not sure if you have tried the shell rotella yet. I have been using Rotella full synthetic (blue bottle) in both my sport and dirt race bikes for 15 years now. I've used 15-40 and the 5-40. The cbr600f4i race bike has over 26k miles track time with that oil and no problems. I'm only on the second clutch. I use rotella fully snythetic in my daily drivers and my 819hp G35 with a single turbo (drag car). I swear by the rotella.
I have noticed that 10-30 in conventional rotella has disappeared. I ran it in my truck all the time and suddenly all sources only have 15-40 in stock. Not sure what happened to the 10-30
I haven't used Rotella enough to speak about it one way or the other yet but comments like yours is why I want to run it more for sure. A lot of guys on the dirt biking forums swear by it.
Have you noticed that Rotella started selling 5w-30 marketing it as truck synthetic? If you don't need the 10w-30 for cold start ups the 5w-30 might work for you. My older car prefers 10w-30 in the summer for example because looser tolerances don't like 5w-30 unless it's winter. And then it gets cold enough in North Carolina that I get further benefit with 0w-30 oil...that's expensive but cold weather startups wearing out engines is no joke.
I'm going by how the engine sounds for my viscosity changes.
There is a specific Lucas Motorcycles Additives not that...
There is?! Cool. What is it?
I looked it up and this is what I found.
Lucas designed this Motorcycle Oil Stabilizer to control heat and wear in high performance motorcycles. Excellent for reducing friction, increasing compression for enhanced fuel mileage. Eliminates dry starts, the #1 cause of wear in motorcycle engines. Also perfect for Harley Davidsons, ATV's and UTV's. For use in Primaries and Gear Boxes.
100% Petroleum
Will not void new vehicle warranties
Reduces temperature and friction
Extends oil life up to 50%
Increases oil pressure
Increases fuel mileage and power
Insures against oil breakdown in case of overheating
Will not sludge or vanish
Cools and quiets engines and gear boxes
Have you tried Shell Rotella T6? Its 5w-40, and for my Kawasaki It works great. I put 2k miles on this oil, and its unbelievably clean. And the gear box smooth as silk. The reason you notice a performance change is because motorcycles shear the oil at accelerated rates. T6 is Jaso MA/MA2. Fantastic oil, give it a try. Works great in 1985- down Auto gas engines as well.
Guess what's in my garage! 😃
You think this would be good oil for an old 92 Honda 300 fourtrax fourwheeler?
@@scottpittmam1224 yes. It's still good for wet clutch motorcycles and ATVS.
@@scottpittmam1224 you can also use shell rotella t4. Which is not synthetic. But a robust conventional oil. Perfect for wet clutches and pre roller cam engines.
You try graduated containers. Or cooking cups.
Stainless steel then. Had to measure oil for a compressor and I had nothing that could measure small enough so I found the tiniest cup to measure with and in the first use the letters were getting eaten off and several more it became leaky. Used it anyway. Only thing I had to measure such small amounts of oil.
Regular Lucas is ok for the oil. Says so on the bottle it’s fine for motorcycle
Dropping another LIKE on your video, Watching and Supporting!
good information about engine oils mate
*left our like👍Au 👍🌟full view🌟*
Thanks my brother from down under. I've downloaded more of your great content about Australia and I'll be enjoying it on the go. 😮😏🙂 CZcams premier means your content is downloaded to my phone. How cool is that?
Anyway, I'll have to give Shell another shot, I don't think I can blame it for clutch failure. Lol
The new springs may even hold the clutch plates strong enough for synthetic. I'm told Yamaha has generally weak clutch plates and I can upgrade for a better result.
On the other hand those who race Yamahas may tell me differently. I'll ask them! 😀
Would that stuff be bad for a aport bike. Gsxr 750 with high miles
I suggest having an oil sample sent in to Blackstone labs or another reputable company after you've used your oil. This is why I discovered my oil needed help. It was shearing down from 10w-40 to 5w-20. I don't know if the oil in your engine is having that problem until it's tested.
If your oil is not combined between the engine and transmission then you can get more creative with your oils without issue. The only reason my motorcycle is sensitive to better oils and acts up is actually because of the wet clutch which shares the motor oil.
I thought it'd be more helpful if I looked that up. I don't know what year your motorcycle is but those motorcycles generally have wet clutches so you may also have to be more careful a out oil additives. Motorcycle oils are designed to have less additives so that they're more compatible with wet clutches like on our motorcycles.
The stiffer the clutch in your hand, the more a motorcycle can tolerate higher additive oils. Make sense? Feel free to ask more questions.
I must admit that i don't know why you are putting lucas in with the oil, i have only used the correct oil for my tiny motorcycles from the start when i was 17, more than 30 years ago.
Yes i'm boring lol :-D.
I changed the oil once it looks darker than normal (carbon absorbed oil) for four strokes.
Two strokes i did every year, just to freshen it up :-D.
If you get oil that does not get so dirty then panic as the carbon is stuck to the bearings and will likely kill them.
All of the above is my unqualified opinion of a non mechanic, slighty mad and getting older by the second lol :-D
Lol. That makes me think of my wife's Toyota. The oil is spookily clean, but I paid closer attention to customers vehicles and that is normal for those engines.
I keep messing with it because I'm unsatisfied with oil which becomes 5w-20 in just 1k miles. It started at 10w-40. Next I'm going to try Lucas Heavy Oil Stabilizer instead of the thinner Synthetic here I just want the oil to stay thicker longer so the engine is staying protected.
Sure, I could change the oil even more often but that's at the limit of my patience. Lol Every 2 weeks becoming every week would be ridiculous. And 1.5 weeks is even worse because then I can't do it on the weekend half the time. Truly. That may be the easier answer.
I think 15w-40 mixed in helped, but I'll have to try it again to be sure.
That's what i like about you, you forgive my stupidity and never take my daft comments wrongly :-D.
I'm also a simple bloke that does not experement on my motorbike.
Sounds like you need more oil to wear out :-D
My original motorbike got stolen and the only one i could find was a 1987 kawasaki kh125d5, The most unpopular machine ever made.
Even the haynes manual would not touch it with a barge pole, or any other pole lol.
It went boom once and i had fun taking it apart, the big end was dead because the piston melted.
Not a weak mixture, if you were thinking that.
The company should have been called Kawa-crappy lol :-D.
Sorry if i've talked about my heap before.
Hey. It's all new information here and if it wasn't I'd like it was because people should be able to retell their stories.
What's really fun is when stories change over the years. I'm feeling a similar amount of love for my Nissan truck right now. During the timing belt video, I found the piston a little melted. Sigh. I'll probably come out with more videos from when the engine was up before I get to it being down.
I almost bought a 1977 Kawasaki with maybe 3 times the engine size. Good thing I didn't. Its was mostly restored and I would have messed that up learning to ride. Lol I would have but it sold while I was looking for it. Or. The gentleman's wife is making him sale and in the face of a serious buyer the ad had to come down!
Oh we do have fun supposing!
1977, i would have been 11 years old then, it would have needed restoration.
Did this bloke do human restoration?, i could do with a new head and my pistons are sloppy.
Not forgetting my leaking exhaust lol :-D.
I'm tyred and exhausted :-D
Ok bad jokes over :)
That JASO MA doesnt mean than it would be accepted for motorcycles. It only means, than it is accepted for wet clutches! And that one is different thing, than motorcycle engine. Motorcycle engines have wet clutch, yeah, thats for sure. But motorcycle engines do also do have transmission. I would not put any engine oil to cars transmission. So I do not put any engine oil, that is not accepted for motorcycles, to motorcycle engine. Because of all of those three reasons. 1. Engine, 2. Clutch, 3. Transmission. I want to be sure, that oil is accepted for motorcycle engines, so I use oils, that are accepted for motorcycle engines. This is kind of same thing, than putting just regular car engine oil, to cars transmission. Maybe for differential too.. I guess, there must be a reason why there is different oils for different parts.. Of course, everybody can use what ever oil they want. Free will etc.. And for least. Damages doesnt come necessarily instantly. It might take some time to wear out your gears of your transmission, or something else place of your engine. There is a lot of gears and bearings and shafts and all a lot of everything. If the save is couple of dollars, I would not take that risk. But as sayd, everybody does what wants to do. Free will, free country. Good bless you, and pleace no hard feelings man!
I do have a wet clutch. I do appreciate the passion with which you have shared very precise information.
Learned a lot since making this video. Got updated on a couple things from people kind enough to watch with more experience as well.
I'm much better on the cars. Did that as a pro for years. Lol
Thank you for taking the time and adding to the community.
My advice......stop mixing products! A good motorcycle oil is all you need when dealing with wet clutches. Anything else and you risk slipping!
Damn, motorcycles are picky.
Lol. Yes it is. I've talked to other people and some of them aren't this picky, but a few are. Yamaha is known for weak springs on the clutch packs so I'm replacing the clutch and springs hoping the sensitivity goes down. (Aftermarket "upgrade") 800ish miles after this, a ticking started and the motorcycle has gone down. I hope it's the clutch but they're known for other weak parts in the transmission too. Like the gear shifter linkage could have come apart. I'm not taking it apart until I have parts money, whatever it is.