Hi Eric, thanks for this video! I have to do the pump on same motor I just bought used this weekend. Question please- your input will be a life saver! : Is there any indexing or special spline alignment that has to occur when putting the unit back onto the motor? I read something about having to put it in gear , I assume just to rotate and align splines? What kind of grease are you using on the splines and in the new pump? Thanks!! Jack
Yes, hook the shift cable to the engine before you install the lower unit. Turn the ignition on and shift into forward gear. Turn the ignition back off and unplug the cable. The unit will stay in forward gear during the reinstall so you can rock the prop back and forth to align the drive shaft into the power head. I just used regular marine grease. You can use the Evinrude triple guard grease if you can find it.
@@ericdavi1231 just for clarification. Engine key just need to be on run right, not fully powered on with the engine running to do the shift? Also, do you initially drop the lower unit with it in neutral? Trying to decide if I'm going to do this myself. Local shop wants 400.00. I have only worked on old Mercury 2 strokes before, so this is a new beast for me.
@@andrewmartin9885 just turn the power on. Don’t crank it. Hook up the wire, shift in forward gear and then disconnect it with the lever still in forward. This will leave the lower unit in forward gear and allow you to rock the prop back and forth to get the splines to line up in the power head. Yes, you can drop the unit in neutral.
I just went to the auto parts store and got permatex shellac for the paper gasket and permatex gasket sealer for the big o-ring, I just used grease on the small orings. To unlock the impeller from the key or cog or what ever you want to call it, just turn the shaft counter clockwise before you take the housing off.
What if some of the excess gasket sealer/maker breaks off and flows up into the cooling system? Not sure if that's an issue with HO motors, but I imagine that could block the cooling passages in the EMMs on the Ficht motors and perhaps giving them a bad name over user error
That’s what the manual said to do. There wasn’t a lot of excess sealant. I’ve been running those engines for a few months now and haven’t had any problems. The engines still run nice and cool. I think the sealant helps keep cooling water from escaping and makes the engines run cooler.
Hi Eric, thank you for the video! Could you please tell me what brand/kind of earmuffs you use for the G2? I can't get mine to pee with the ones I have. Thanks!
It’s hard to get a G2 to pee on the muffs. You have to tape the front high speed pick ups closed and then I put an extra set of muffs over the muffs that have the hose attached to help keep them on tighter.
Is there not a few inches of slack that you don’t have to remove all of the covers just to access the cable and oil tube? Since the shaft is two pieces, shouldn’t you be able to replace the pump if it is lowered just enough to work on it? I understand that you don’t want to pull the wires out, but has anyone attempted this without removing the covers and supporting the lower unit right below where it comes off?
It’s a stupid design. There’s also several places behind the side pieces where the hose and wire are connected so they don’t move around. I got rid of those motors and my new Yamahas are more of the traditional design.
I follow your video and did m y two water pumps.....all is well.......but at high speed m overheating....do you by any chance know why??......the motors came out of a smaller boat ...could it be very high rpms?...they r both overheating at high speed
If the motors produce a solid stream from the tell tale or “pee hole” when you tested them, then you did the water pumps correctly. However, you might have something else restricting the water flow like a stuck thermostat or something.
I don’t know what’s going on with BRP. They use to have a parts catalog where you could put in your serial number and get the exact part numbers. But I just checked and it’s gone. I have since thrown all the parts boxes away and I don’t even have Evinrude motors anymore. Evinrude said they would continue to support their motors even after they quit making them, but that doesn’t seem to be completely true.
I don’t remember the part number. Your best bet is the have the model number of your outboard handy and look up the correct part on the Evinrude parts catalog. The motor wasn’t overheating by any means, just a little on the warm side. It was a new to me engine, so I changed it as a precaution since I didn’t have any records as to when it was done last.
@@ericdavi1231 Thanks, I know they updated the part number for the pump. I just ordered what I believe is the updated pump kit. Looking forward to changing it out along with a new set of plugs. Just hit 400 hours!
@@Trizzle_5 unless it’s a really nice hull and you can get a good deal because of the G2s. That’s what I did, and I used the G2s for a year before I put Yamahas on.
About a minute. You have to tape the low water intakes on the front closed. I also use one set of ear muffs for the water then another set on top of those to help clamp it tighter to the sides. G2s don’t like to pee on the water hose, but you can make them.
@@ericdavi1231 ran it in a barrel and didn’t pump after a minute. Has new gasket and impeller and key way. Any ideas come to mind why it won’t pump up to the motor
@@tylerdoodlebug Did it pump water at all before you changed the water pump? Also make sure the lower unit is fully submerged and not just the water intakes. The pump is actually higher than the intakes and will suck air if it’s not submerged. I also always give the shaft a turn and look in the little hole to see if the key way is locked and I can see the impeller fins moving before I reinstall the lower unit. There’s also orings on the water tube that the water pump has to slide into. I always change those and grease them up so the water pump outlet can slide in and make a good connection. If you’ve done all that, there could be something else that I haven’t encountered.
So, I tested mine in a water trough but only filled it just above the inlet. According to what you mentioned above, I didn’t have enough water. Anyway, since I let it run for 2 minutes in neutral, I’m guessing that now I really need to replace my impellers. Or should I just try again with a little more water?
First you have use a 25 torx for the bolts. Than take away the letft side cover, than unscrew the down bolt of gearcase oil, and only now the right side engine cover. The impeller must be fitted alone, and only after you can fit the metal/plastica water pump. At last the the trasmissione will give you trouble for take gearcase in the right position. You Will rotate the flywheel whith the starter. Apologize for my rusty english
You just drop the gear case when it’s in forward gear, then you can rock the prop back and forth to get the drive shaft spline to line up inside the powerhead without touching the flywheel. The flywheel on a G2 isn’t as easily accessed as with some other outboard engines. You also don’t have to drain the gear case oil. Just find a bolt that will fit snugly inside the oil hose to keep the oil from leaking out.
@@ericdavi1231 when i canghe the impeller , i also pull out the gearcase oil. I rotate a little the flywheel , whith a screedriver touching the 12volt nut with the small one on the side. Always with the gearcase in neutral. I don't Need ti switch on the injectiin
@@giuseppedisantillo674 I’ll probably change the gear case oil and impeller at the same time next time I do it. I had just done the gear oil when I noticed one of the engines wasn’t cooling as well as it should.
@@ericdavi1231 a lot of things May produce a different temperature between port and strasbord engine. The display Will show you the most high temp, there are 3 different temp sensore every engine. Sometime the EMM Is most hot the head. Contro the pressure water valve
@@giuseppedisantillo674 the port engine was over 160 degrees Fahrenheit, the starboard was around 150. Since I changed both impellers, both engines stay in the 140s. I had recently purchased the boat, so I didn’t know the last time it had been done.
It BOGGLES my mind the water pumps require dropping the gearbox on outboards in 2023. Wtf. I hate doing water pumps. Why the hell couldn’t they put them side mounted and side accessed on the gearbox. So so so many outboards have over heating issues which is SO dumb for a engine that has access to unlimited water. The marine motor industry is dumb.
Seems like any time the marine business tries anything new, they have a ton of issues so they just stick with what’s tried and true, or take baby steps. Look at Evinrude, they tried to reinvent outboard steering and now they’re out of business.
This is the dumbest design, more work than any other motor, I have worked on outboard motors for more than 35 years and this has to be the most labor intensive motor I have ever worked on, junk!!@!!!
@@albertworthington8008 I finally got rid of them 2 years ago. The only thing I liked about them was the gear oil reservoir so you could actually see the condition of your gear oil without draining it.
Thank you any G2 Maintenance videos are appreciated.
Bravo meccanico. Complimenti.
The G2 is a great motor!
I get anywhere from 1.8 - 2 MPG cruising in the high 30s on a 30 Intrepid.
Thanks for sharing video
Hi Eric, thanks for this video! I have to do the pump on same motor I just bought used this weekend.
Question please- your input will be a life saver! :
Is there any indexing or special spline alignment that has to occur when putting the unit back onto the motor? I read something about having to put it in gear , I assume just to rotate and align splines?
What kind of grease are you using on the splines and in the new pump?
Thanks!!
Jack
Yes, hook the shift cable to the engine before you install the lower unit. Turn the ignition on and shift into forward gear. Turn the ignition back off and unplug the cable. The unit will stay in forward gear during the reinstall so you can rock the prop back and forth to align the drive shaft into the power head.
I just used regular marine grease. You can use the Evinrude triple guard grease if you can find it.
@@ericdavi1231 just for clarification. Engine key just need to be on run right, not fully powered on with the engine running to do the shift? Also, do you initially drop the lower unit with it in neutral?
Trying to decide if I'm going to do this myself. Local shop wants 400.00. I have only worked on old Mercury 2 strokes before, so this is a new beast for me.
@@andrewmartin9885 just turn the power on. Don’t crank it. Hook up the wire, shift in forward gear and then disconnect it with the lever still in forward. This will leave the lower unit in forward gear and allow you to rock the prop back and forth to get the splines to line up in the power head. Yes, you can drop the unit in neutral.
Where can I find the tool you used to free the key on the input shaft? ALSO what were you using as the gasket lube? Great video BTW
I just went to the auto parts store and got permatex shellac for the paper gasket and permatex gasket sealer for the big o-ring, I just used grease on the small orings. To unlock the impeller from the key or cog or what ever you want to call it, just turn the shaft counter clockwise before you take the housing off.
What if some of the excess gasket sealer/maker breaks off and flows up into the cooling system? Not sure if that's an issue with HO motors, but I imagine that could block the cooling passages in the EMMs on the Ficht motors and perhaps giving them a bad name over user error
That’s what the manual said to do. There wasn’t a lot of excess sealant. I’ve been running those engines for a few months now and haven’t had any problems. The engines still run nice and cool. I think the sealant helps keep cooling water from escaping and makes the engines run cooler.
Hi Eric, thank you for the video! Could you please tell me what brand/kind of earmuffs you use for the G2? I can't get mine to pee with the ones I have.
Thanks!
It’s hard to get a G2 to pee on the muffs. You have to tape the front high speed pick ups closed and then I put an extra set of muffs over the muffs that have the hose attached to help keep them on tighter.
@@ericdavi1231 thank you!
Is there not a few inches of slack that you don’t have to remove all of the covers just to access the cable and oil tube? Since the shaft is two pieces, shouldn’t you be able to replace the pump if it is lowered just enough to work on it? I understand that you don’t want to pull the wires out, but has anyone attempted this without removing the covers and supporting the lower unit right below where it comes off?
It’s a stupid design. There’s also several places behind the side pieces where the hose and wire are connected so they don’t move around. I got rid of those motors and my new Yamahas are more of the traditional design.
I follow your video and did m y two water pumps.....all is well.......but at high speed m overheating....do you by any chance know why??......the motors came out of a smaller boat
...could it be very high rpms?...they r both overheating at high speed
If the motors produce a solid stream from the tell tale or “pee hole” when you tested them, then you did the water pumps correctly. However, you might have something else restricting the water flow like a stuck thermostat or something.
Can you tell us the part numbers for your sealers and sealants and gasket makers?
I don’t know what’s going on with BRP. They use to have a parts catalog where you could put in your serial number and get the exact part numbers. But I just checked and it’s gone. I have since thrown all the parts boxes away and I don’t even have Evinrude motors anymore. Evinrude said they would continue to support their motors even after they quit making them, but that doesn’t seem to be completely true.
I got water coming out if upper lower unit....is that normal??
Was the water pump part number5009434? and what was a little hot?
I don’t remember the part number. Your best bet is the have the model number of your outboard handy and look up the correct part on the Evinrude parts catalog. The motor wasn’t overheating by any means, just a little on the warm side. It was a new to me engine, so I changed it as a precaution since I didn’t have any records as to when it was done last.
@@ericdavi1231 Thanks, I know they updated the part number for the pump. I just ordered what I believe is the updated pump kit. Looking forward to changing it out along with a new set of plugs. Just hit 400 hours!
@@MarkCeleste4157 make sure you index those plugs
@@ericdavi1231 I bought the expensive ones that you don't have to worry about indexing. Like $26 each! ugh
@@MarkCeleste4157 I use the same ones. You still need to index them. With the crush ring, it’s hard to tell exactly where to stop.
Anyone had a issue where when they turn the steering it makes this annoying scratching noise?
Watch my steering video
Hi I’m lookin at a boat with a 2019 etec g2 300. Any opinions on this motor?
Major problems with steering.
@@ericdavi1231 so don’t bother lol
@@Trizzle_5 unless it’s a really nice hull and you can get a good deal because of the G2s. That’s what I did, and I used the G2s for a year before I put Yamahas on.
@@Trizzle_5 just know there will be a repower in your future if you buy a boat with a G2
@@ericdavi1231 it was repowered with the G2 in 2019
How long did it take to pump water after start up?
About a minute. You have to tape the low water intakes on the front closed. I also use one set of ear muffs for the water then another set on top of those to help clamp it tighter to the sides. G2s don’t like to pee on the water hose, but you can make them.
@@ericdavi1231 ran it in a barrel and didn’t pump after a minute. Has new gasket and impeller and key way. Any ideas come to mind why it won’t pump up to the motor
@@tylerdoodlebug Did it pump water at all before you changed the water pump? Also make sure the lower unit is fully submerged and not just the water intakes. The pump is actually higher than the intakes and will suck air if it’s not submerged. I also always give the shaft a turn and look in the little hole to see if the key way is locked and I can see the impeller fins moving before I reinstall the lower unit. There’s also orings on the water tube that the water pump has to slide into. I always change those and grease them up so the water pump outlet can slide in and make a good connection. If you’ve done all that, there could be something else that I haven’t encountered.
So, I tested mine in a water trough but only filled it just above the inlet. According to what you mentioned above, I didn’t have enough water. Anyway, since I let it run for 2 minutes in neutral, I’m guessing that now I really need to replace my impellers. Or should I just try again with a little more water?
First you have use a 25 torx for the bolts. Than take away the letft side cover, than unscrew the down bolt of gearcase oil, and only now the right side engine cover. The impeller must be fitted alone, and only after you can fit the metal/plastica water pump. At last the the trasmissione will give you trouble for take gearcase in the right position. You Will rotate the flywheel whith the starter. Apologize for my rusty english
You just drop the gear case when it’s in forward gear, then you can rock the prop back and forth to get the drive shaft spline to line up inside the powerhead without touching the flywheel. The flywheel on a G2 isn’t as easily accessed as with some other outboard engines. You also don’t have to drain the gear case oil. Just find a bolt that will fit snugly inside the oil hose to keep the oil from leaking out.
@@ericdavi1231 when i canghe the impeller , i also pull out the gearcase oil. I rotate a little the flywheel , whith a screedriver touching the 12volt nut with the small one on the side. Always with the gearcase in neutral. I don't Need ti switch on the injectiin
@@giuseppedisantillo674 I’ll probably change the gear case oil and impeller at the same time next time I do it. I had just done the gear oil when I noticed one of the engines wasn’t cooling as well as it should.
@@ericdavi1231 a lot of things May produce a different temperature between port and strasbord engine. The display Will show you the most high temp, there are 3 different temp sensore every engine. Sometime the EMM Is most hot the head. Contro the pressure water valve
@@giuseppedisantillo674 the port engine was over 160 degrees Fahrenheit, the starboard was around 150. Since I changed both impellers, both engines stay in the 140s. I had recently purchased the boat, so I didn’t know the last time it had been done.
It BOGGLES my mind the water pumps require dropping the gearbox on outboards in 2023. Wtf. I hate doing water pumps. Why the hell couldn’t they put them side mounted and side accessed on the gearbox. So so so many outboards have over heating issues which is SO dumb for a engine that has access to unlimited water. The marine motor industry is dumb.
Seems like any time the marine business tries anything new, they have a ton of issues so they just stick with what’s tried and true, or take baby steps. Look at Evinrude, they tried to reinvent outboard steering and now they’re out of business.
How are the g2 motors? Reliable?
This is the dumbest design, more work than any other motor, I have worked on outboard motors for more than 35 years and this has to be the most labor intensive motor I have ever worked on, junk!!@!!!
@@albertworthington8008 I finally got rid of them 2 years ago. The only thing I liked about them was the gear oil reservoir so you could actually see the condition of your gear oil without draining it.