Removing A Stuck Subaru Rear Wheel Bearing
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- čas přidán 7. 07. 2023
- In this video I bring you along as I have tackle the most feared job of all rust belt mechanics. The dreaded Subaru rear wheel bearing. These things are perhaps the most seized bearing you can change. They rank right up there with the infamous Ford Explorer rear bearing. I'll show you the trick I use to get the job done in a short time and with minimum crying,
-Enjoy!
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Gulf Distressed Vintage Adjustable Snapback Hat: amzn.to/3XFelV9
Got one when I saw yours
I love your hat and I'm not cheap , but I can't bring myself to pay 27 bucks for a cap . But I just paid 3k for a new hunting dog lol
Great tip Eric. I admire the fact that your able to keep the "G" rating even when frustrated. Mine unfortunately is still rather "x" rated...lol👍
LOL, that went right over my head, I thought of something else. So I clicked on the link. I haven’t worn a hat since 95 when I retired from the army. Except a few times when I forgot to wear a ponytail while working with power tools. I had to wear one to cover my shaved head while working outside. ;)
@@kenj.8897 well, at least you wouldn't have to feed the hat.
Hey Eric, bloody top video, as a diy-er and a Subaru owner, I really appreciate this. I have decided that this is a pivotal decision point, and with the confidence you've given me, I have decided to sell my car and never look back.
this guy...
lmfaooo
😂😂😂😂😂😂
😂😂 it's not that bad granted I was working in a shop that was luckily in Florida and the ones I did I got lucky and they were almost to easy. At least give her a kiss good bye
Cake
I thought the most feared job of all-time was working the complaint desk at Dorman auto parts
😂😂😂
I thought it was working the service desk at the Kia/Hyundai dealership.
That bearing puler is a crazy price I will never buy one
You buy crappy Chinese parts you should be expecting crappy Chinese parts.
Man I could only imagine! What do you expect when you buy those dog shit parts but people are ignorant as hell so I could see that job being horrible!
"Do you wanna go to war, Balake ??!!??" Mr. Garvey is now a mechanic. Amazing.
Just did my daughter’s 2015 a week ago. Stumbled on this video by coincidence. I have all the tools at work, but had to do the job in my driveway (long story). Used a sledge hammer and PB Blaster. Hub came out. I’ve done many jobs like this, but this was my first Subaru. Wasn’t that bad. Maybe I got lucky.
"if you can't weld good, weld a lot" Best line.
I liked the line as well, but that could also give birth to a lot of bad welders 🙂
@@RingZero you know what they say... The worst welders become the best grinders. People ask are you a welder? I say NO I can make two pieces of metal stick together but I'm not a welder
Measure with a mic, cut with an axe, beat to fit, paint to match.
The bigger the blob the better the job.
applies to tying knots too.
Eric O , u are the best my friend!!! I am a Subaru Mechanic and almost always just remove the knuckle and press the bearing out with a shop press. At our shop we always replace the backing plate with the bearing so we don’t care that the press mangles the backing plate. U are 100% correct it’s not a job for the timid. The bearing just laughs at the tool known as the hub buster. Your method was also very effective and faster than removing the knuckle. Thank You for this Video.
You're going to look like a rockstar next week at work..😂
PUT THE TORCH TO THE HOUSING AND PUT 4 BOLTS ON LOSELY AND HAMMER IT OUT AINT ALL THAT HARD JUST GOT TO STOP AND THINK
@@allanfranco4464 Ope, we got us a thinker! And he loves to yell!
Lisle literally makes a hub pressing tool very similar to what he just welded.
Lisle 40100 Hub Remover was a fail. As was the hub buster .
He's telling the truth. I changed my entire wheel assembly myself, and it was painful. I started at 1 PM and didn't finish until 9 PM. I had to fight to get the tie rod off, then had to fight to get the hub off the ball joint at the bottom. A pickle fork is the most valuable tool to have when doing anything with the wheel assembly. I learned that the hard way.
Will I do it again? Absolutely. I now have the proper tools for the job and knowledge of what not to do. If the other bearing goes out, I think I can complete the job in an hour.
Damn!!! Finally real world mechanic issues in a CZcams video that’s short and sweet and to the point. Love it!
My welding motto (13:10) is "The bigger the blob, the better the job". :)
"Grinder and paint make me the welder I 'aint"
@@iskandertime747 yea real welders are proud of them beads .. not me
i use Dobby Don's welding and dog kennel .the bigger the gob the better the job.
My brother said that about a girl he took home one night.
YOU CAN WELD ALL THE BIRD SHIT YOU LIKE ,BUT ITS NOT HOW NICE THE WELD ITS HAVING GOOD PENETRATION THATS THE QUALITY OF WELD
Thank you for continuing to share these videos, you’re a busy man and it’s appreciated that you take the time to record for the masses.
CZcams pays more than the repair. he is a genious. in cars and in business.
You just did a repair in 30mins that you said could end up at 8 HOURS, ALL brake techs should be watching this !
Love watching a mechanic that knows his job inside out and works fast. Thumbs up !
As much as I appreciate Eric's videos where he tracks down electrical or engine or other complicated problems using schematics and detailed logical troubleshooting, I have come to love these banging and crashing heavy tools videos changing out major parts. Sort of therapeutic for some reason.
I'm disappointed if he doesn't use fire.
When I replaced the 5th wheel bushings on my Mack today it made me sad that fire wasn't required.
It's therapeutic for me because I would never attempt a wheel bearing (I'm 74 and brake jobs are my specialty) -- and I own a Subaru Forester. Mine is getting up there (2009, 183,000 mi) and probably needs new bearings all the way around. Maybe I'll drive it cross country and ask Eric to have a look...
Nothing better than that moment you’re hitting something that’s seized with a big ass hammer or impact and it starts to move. I mean there are more enjoyable moments but you’re not wearing pants for those.
@@dchawk81problem is that Plastic ABS sensor is not cheap and won’t come out without another fight. Also can’t cook the axle boot. To remove the axle you need to remove the control arms and the bolts will be frozen in the sleeves. This is a huge can of worms if you start going too ham on it. 😂
A top flight diagnostician, a super sharp mechanic who figures out how to make things work, save time, and is willing to share his knowledge. That would be Eric O of South Main Auto. Well done sir.
I am a beginnerish DIYer. Tried to do this exact job with my buddy who has the same amount of experience. We used a slide hammer to successfully pull the front of the bearing off, but could not for the life of us get the housing separated. I called in support from my father in law, who is a big burly diesel mechanic. He brought air tools and an acetylene torch. Long story short, he couldn't get it off at my house, so he took the entire knuckle off and brought it back to his shop. He cut the housing in half with an acetylene torch and pressed the housing off with a press. I was out of a car for a week. He warned me CZcams made it look easy but I wanted to try it myself...never again.
Good on your for giving it a go. Don’t know til ya try it. Next time it’ll go twice as fast! Don’t be a quitter!!
Subaru wheel bearings are well known in the shop, the rear ones will never come apart
the night before- remove ABS sensor - flood with penatrating oil of choice and let that sucker soak. it will go much easier the next day. (might still need to slam it/ use a puller) but it will at least have some lube in there already.
DO NOT! attempt front ball joints haha (also check out Mr Subaru)
Do they not have rear complete knuckles? Cost prohibitive? Might be easier and cheaper than a shop to go all new
I was more impressed with how easily you put that e brake back together 😂 would have taken me half an hour
That's the different between a pro and an amateur
OK, being a welder for many years and working for caterpillar. I wanted to suggest some things that with that would help out the viewers. If you’re using a 110 V welder and you don’t have enough heat to make it,say welding that heavy of a metal piece. What you do is take your torch and heat up the wheel bearing side to red hot and then make your weld. I hope this helps someone. Great video!
Very courteous of you to Fluid Film the new bearing, that'll make it easier for the next guy at Wilbert's to remove it.
Heh, given the rust most cars he works on don't last long enough to need this repair twice anyway.
@@jaturnley That's the joke. The next guy pulling this will be at the junkyard removing it for it's own car.
@@sebastien4565 Yep, Wilbert's is the junkyard - you have got to be hungry to use junkyard bearings ...
@@scottbaker9066 Hope I'm never that desperate (using secondhand wheel bearings.)
And still not a sponsor.
Spot on! Spent the better part of a day trying to get the rear hub off a 2014 Forester. Then followed Eric's process with success
. Cheers!
Truly an awesome method. I wish I searched up this solution *BEFORE* I tackled the job. Oh well, we got it done with your help. Thank you, sir!
Here in Australia, we don't have too many issues with rust, unless the vehicle is a 4×4 driven on the beach, or cars that live near the ocean.
All we need to do is show the old bearing a Kangaroo or a Drop Bear and the bearing gets the F outta there all by itself🤣🤣🤣👍🇦🇺
I’ve spent 40 years turning wrenches……. You provide endless entertainment 😂👍
This September I will have 40 years as well and yes I find his videos both entertaining and sometimes I learn a new trick.
I just got done pulling a rear wheel bearing on my 2018 Subaru. I'm in Michigan so it was plenty rusty. I bought some M-12 bolts and bolted the slide hammer to the front of the wheel bearing and smacked it out (after pulling the hub like you do in the video). I don't have a welder, so I had to make do. Took about 10 minutes of running the slide hammer to pull it out.
Now I'm watching the video again to figure out how to put together the parking break. Thanks for the great info. You saved me a bundle!
I did this with my buddy today, and was absolutely amazed how stuck that hub was. We beat the snot out of the hub with a sledge, did a couple hundred whacks with a 5lb slide hammer, and hammered in a chisel from the side. When we do the other side I’m breaking out the welder!
Just wanted to say thanks. I've saved so much money learning from you. Also, I've left your channel on autoplay in my living room tv and its like working in my own shop! The sounds of the ugga duggas, the air tools blasting, the sound effects, it's pure asmr for me !
Air tools put me in a episode
You're the man. You're one of the few mechanics calling themselves mechanics.
Kudos to you, Eric, for showing us how to "Do the Impossible" while maintaining your sense of humor and keeping it family friendly! We should contact Rainman Ray to see if he can adjust the "Tool Gravity" in you area 🙂
while welding on deez nuts
For those who don't have a mig - If you only have a stick welder use a 6010 or 6011 rod and that will have so much penetration for the weld bead, even Tommy would be jealous.
And Bob's your uncle😄
7018 would be better for this application but your choice would work good to.
@@feetfats1 why? Personally I wouldn't use 7018. Its not fast freezing. The bead is wide. Its a bitch to restart unless you file the tip every time. Also 7018 doesn't penetrate for a deep root. It's why we don't use it for a root, only a cap. Also unless it's fresh avocado, hydro rods go south and no one is buying a bundle of hydro rods for 2.
@@bstamand1985 You're obviously not aware that 7018 is used for root & cap in other countries because 6010/6011 isn't available. It takes more skill to run 7018 open root than using a fast-freeze electrode 😊
@@feetfats1 Yes, 6013/7014/7018 can be used (low/medium penetration) hence the reason his poor quality MIG welds worked just fine.
Some people have no real world experience and apparently don't know that 6010/6011 welds are brittle when compared to 6013/7014/7018's ductility which comes in real handy when using brute force to remove things 😊
There's a reason 6010/6011 root passes are covered with a more ductile welding electrode material. Some people apparently think the world revolves around pipe welding 😉
You are awesome. I love your video's. I'm almost 73, retired for 10 years, mechanic and shop owner for 50 years. You remind me of the fun I had doing what I loved.
I Stumbled upon your channel. I am impressed and horrified with the amount of rust you mechanics in the North East have to deal with. You guys are just Tough up there in the Rust Belt! Adapting, Improvising, and Overcoming! Carry On Sir!
And this isint even really rusted. Thats like standard everyday normal rust.
"An easy one"
Yes doing a show & tell helps much toward what mechanics do and the issues they must overcome on daily basis.
Yes, kudos for video presented and thank you.
For both vehicle owners' and more so for mechanics dedicated to quality works:
The issues are many, from design of mechanical assembly, how well it's made, redundancies for durability, serviceablilty, parts availability, mfgr/gov planned-obsolescence, costs of parts, etc. Then know-how, tools, equipment, critical thinking & creativity, patience to make reliable repairs / refurbishing works.
As to "Rust Belt" area 80% of contiguous USA and 90% of CAN achieve Rust Belt by "Official Political Policies & Practises" by govs' Towns, Cities, Counties, States/Provinces, applying Salts, NaCl, CaCl, MgCl, KcL, CMA, in Crystal forms, blends & brines, etc during each winter season. Millions of tonnes applied each winter.
They are all corrosive, deteriorate cars, trucks, roads, bridges, utilities, & all infrastructures causing hazards, perils, ruin, wastes, pollution, and massive costs/ debts plus interest / usury: aka Indentured servitude, serfdom, slavery.
Coupled with requiring replacement of cars, trucks, etc sooner/ faster and faster.
All under illusions of Salts assuring safety during travels.
If you like, learn more about road Salts. They have migrated/flowed and are in freshwater ponds, creeks, rivers, lakes, reservoirs, aquifers, and in drinking water.
If only a smattering of grease or Cooperslip was used while assembling at the factory, would save future humanity so much time...
@@okkromyep😊
Great tip, Eric O! I work at a Subaru dealership. We just replace the entire knuckle. I'm gonna try this trick and hopefully save my customers some money.
The new knuckle approach would be the fastest and cleanest is my opinion and least chance of a call back. I’m reading all the posts on the hammering and the bushings on the upper control and the trail arm will only take so much pounding . Thanks !
I'm a Subaru tech and we use a similar tool to the bolt on hub bar. It's a giant metal tube with a flange welded to it to attach to the wheel studs. It's very heavy and a bit ackward to install but it works like a hot damn. Also, it sounds like a gong when you hit it so we stuff a shop fender cover into it. Fun and games!
Lisle also makes this similar hub pressing tool as well.
Having done about 4 sets myself, 2 on my own STi, and 2 on Customer vehicles, I'm gonna have to work on trying this. I'm absolutely convinced that the rust holds those in there. The bolts are nothing more than place-setters or holding fixtures. The rust is what holds those in there.
Done many of these using every method you could think of except that.Last one I did was in my driveway for my son in law after I retired. Took about 2 hours and he was amazed how frozen it was. I have 3 welders and never thought of using them. Nice work/idea.
I've done this recently and ended up resorting to using a set of chisels to separate the backing plate from the knuckle. It worked well and went quickly once I figured it out. All you need is a set of chisels of varying fatness and a small sledge. The suspension knuckle and the backing plate meet such that there is a V grove as the knuckle tapers to the meeting point of the backing plate. Find a chisel that is a bit larger in diameter than the V-groove. Spray the joint separation points both in back and front of the backing plate liberally with penetrating oil. Place the chisel on the side of the assembly opposite from the brake caliper mounting in that V-groove. Pound away with a small sledge until a gap appears. Insert fatter chisels as the joint opens and use additional chisels simultaneously along different points in the opening crack to provide more force overall without over stressing any single point. That joint won't take more than 5 minutes to crack open. And you won't damage the backing plate-it has a thick metal stiffener plate at the separation point that prevents bending. Be sure to grease or anti-seize the inner circumference of the bearing recess to make the job easier in the future.
Spot on. I actually have a set of cold chisels just for bearing removal. I also use SIL-Glyde for the pilot diameter just in case I end up doing it again.
Remember, if it ain't broke, you're not trying!
I love this guy. He is so damn funny. He is also one hell of a great mechanic too. Thanks Eric O.
If you don't have a welder, an even better way is to use an air chisel on the back side of the backing plate. Use the flat bit towards the top where there is a place to wedge the bit between the housing and the bearing hub which is about 3/8 of an inch wide. I fought one for several hours before going back to the drawing board and finding a CZcams video which showed the procedure. MUCH quicker and easier than the welder!
Yeah I do the same. Chisel bit on an air hammer and get in between the bearing and the backing plate. The plate takes a bit of damage, but just hammer it out flat after and off you go!
Thank you! I'm about ready to flatbed my car to the shop. I'll try that!
How’d it go?
@@liberalsockpuppet4772 Did it work for you?
@@martyc5674 I ended up using a torch and 3 lb sledgehammer. Tbat did it.
That is an amazing technique to remove that stubborn bearing. Great job!
Those disposable welding gloves work a treat
We've done 4 of these in the past year, one was really low miles garage kept and came apart easy by Subaru standards. The other was not and did not. We took both our big bore air hammers and ran them to rotate the bearing in opposite direction from the other to spin it in the knuckle. Pushed it back and forth a few times then lined up one behind the knuckle to push out on the hub and it pooped right out. Other side slide hammered out once we spun it with both air hammers. A good alternate method if your welder sucks. We have 3 498 hammers in the shop, such is Chicago life! A tip on keeping your 498 pointed punches from turning into flat punches, I case hardened mine crudely with the torch and some used oil, it's held it's point for a long time now.
Would think all Master Mechanic's have their own method. Great video.
I do what you described. Works well.
@@robertfitzgerald3432 Absolutely
I have a Subaru so this video caught my eye. I’ve always been interested in things a woman is supposedly not supposed to be interested in. Yard maintenance, mechanical things, computers, engineering, science, etc. anyway, I enjoyed watching you do this and thought the way you expressed your exasperation was funny and reminded me of myself at work. Lol
I've seen this done so many ways and it never works out well but your way was absolutely the best, there was no trauma to the knuckle like I seen with other mechanics doing this.
DIYer here from Canada (Manitoba so we see alot of snow). Did this job a few years ago in my apartment parking lot with basic hand tools after watching you and a few others do it. A mechanic saw me struggling with it and suggested I use a chisel to wedge it between the hub and the back plate. Got it out after several hours and ended up mangling the back plate a bit but nothing a hammer couldn’t flatten out. Was the first “real” job I ever did on my car other than an oil change so it was definitely a struggle but I felt pretty damn good about myself when I took it on a test drive and stopped hearing that damn bearing roar.
The man making it easy and sharing his knowledge! Thank you for the entertainment and sharing da nuttiest way to get the job done!
This is just as good as most TV shows.
The information is super useful. The commentary is even better😊
For these, I use a slide hammer to pop the outer bearing race off, same as in the video, then use the slide hammer with bolts running through two of the four bolt holes that normally attach the bearing to the knuckle. Before sliding, cook the bearing housing with a hot torch to discombobulate the corrosion. If you left the speed sensor in (I don't), don't cook it, heat the opposite half - and make damn sure the axle is free floating or you'll rip the sensor in two. Slide hammer is weighted with two gym weights (total 24 pounds). A few HARD pulls and she's out. Wear leather gloves - weights like to pinch...
Edited to add: If you're doing this in your driveway, support the knuckle with a jack until the suspension compresses somewhat; things won't bounce around so much when you use a slide hammer or hub tamer. Probably puts more force/shock into the corrosion.
That would be my plan if I were to do one without knowing anything about them
@Slicerwizard, that sounds sensible. Frankly, I think I'd rather just dispose of this vehicle.🤣Seriously I wouldn't be surprise if the factory repair manual calls for removing the axle from the transaxle assembly, remove the knuckle from the vehicle and place it on the bench to perform the separation there. That way they can overcharge the customer for hours and hours of labor that really isn't necessary. I was once charged ~9 hours for "diagnostics & repairs" for what was less than 2 hours worth of work. Funny enough "new management/ownership" took over shortly after & they're trying to "re-earn my business". If you can help it, stay away from "stealerships" folks.
What area are you in? Slider hammers are usually a joke no matter how its placed on the part; the force he applied here with that bolt may be a ton at least. I think my solution would be to shift the wheel bearing by hitting it on the side and then use the bolts like to mention to apply the force against them. I'm sure Eric has done that but from my experience, it is easier to shift than to pull put as these wheel bearings tend to form ribs that won't allow it to come out.
I bet the heat from the welding plays an important part in the success of this method. Combined with the jacking force from the bolt it’s a knockout 1-2 punch. Great video! Thanks!
When I use a slide hammer I wrap and twist a tie down strap around the weight , leave some slack and pull on the tie strap , I get better leverage and force with out shocking my elbow and wrist.
Excellent video and strategy, Mr. O!
I was a Subaru dealer tech for several years in the rust belt of Chicago... We did many of these, and that was only on dealer-age vehicles. It was rare to see a 10+ yr/old vehicle like the ones you're always working on.
Our tool was the hub shocker type, bolted on to two of the lug studs, about a foot long striker plate hanging off the side of the car. You'd hit it with the "Purse" (read 4lb sledge) for upwards of 30 minutes sometimes, until it had finally started to budge, only to jam up unless you were gonna try to reset the tool onto another pair of studs somewhere. Yeah, good luck. Then, you'd go to town with Tha Dawg (air hammer) for another few minutes to punch it out the rest of the way and "selectively texture" the knuckle face as little as possible in the meantime....
Suffice to say, I am a big fan of your approach, Eric. I only wish they allowed us to have a welder for such things at the dealer...
I was skimming the comments for references to this method. Now I know it doesn't work on Subies.
STILL, one of the very best channels. He's the real Dominator. HUGE respect to Eric and family. :-)
If I still had a Subaru I would drive the hour and a half just to have your expertise do it and knowing how much joy you get from it
I'm 5 hours away, and contemplating driving out there for Eric to have him work on my Subaru!
He won’t work on your car. Doesn’t take new customers.
I’m only 36 hrs straight, I’ll just have to show my local mechanic the video, do it Eric’s way.
@@Paopolomolollhe doesn't take CZcams customers
I generally use the Queen Mary and a chain to remove those Subaru bearings, but thanks to Eric O's ingenuity, I can do it the easy way!🤣 All kidding aside, GREAT JOB Eric and thanks!
You made a nightmare almost a walk in the park. I'm sharing this with my coworkers. These are about the bane of our existence. Always enjoy watching your knowledge.
I had to remove one of these once here in Vermont. It was a nearly impossible task. I looked up on youtube how to do it and saw a video with a guy hitting the bearing 3 times with a dead blow hammer and it popped out. I thought I was cursed, I'm glad I wasnt alone. I cant remember how I ended up getting it out but it involved about 3 hours with an air chisel.
Diyer here ...I used the wheel hub removal tool where you attach remover to the hub then used a sledge hammer on it. Worked out in a few bonks. I pushed the CV axle on the second one and it came out in 2 hits. I'm in NYC where we got salt but this looked a lot worse than mine.
Funny to see the exhaust hanger broke off . Subarus seem to have same common failures
This is exactly what my 2013 Outback needs, and I am very afraid
junk yeard time
Nothin' to it, just do it!
If Eric can do it, YOU can do it!👍
@@xlandros If Eric can do it and you live close enough you might better let him do it for you.
I’ve done it myself. I do have a slide hammer and did pull the bearing apart like he did. I don’t really remember how I got it apart after that but am pretty sure it involved cussing. This would’ve been much easier and I have a welder, just didn’t think of it.
Great technique and excellent video.
I have absolutely no need to change a wheel bearing on a Subaru or on any car for that matter, yet I watched the entire video and found it very therapeutic, so thanks for posting it. AI must have reached a new level of intelligence - the CZcams algorithm seems to have correctly anticipated what I needed. 😊
Hey bro I did one side on a 2013 crosstrek before I saw this video, what a pain that was, just want to thank you your way cut the time way down!!!! THANKS AGAIN..
You make hard jobs look so easy. I miss older cars so much. Was so simple to work on.
The classic showdown- Mr O vs Subaru wheel bearing - rusty`s revenge! ! By my count at least you are still wining this battle.
I love these videos where I learn “Yep, never doing that!” Lol😂
I spent all day today attempting this on my car. I do not own a welder. I wish I saw this video earlier so I could have enjoyed my Saturday. And not waist 8 hours trying to fiout how to pull a wheel bearing out.
Doing them in my garage at home without an air hammer, welder or torch in the rust belt i used a can of pb blaster, a 10 lbs sledge and about 2 hours of swinging at it for one hub to finally pop loose. Fun times.
Interesting approach. I do many of these Subarus. I bought the bar that bolts onto the hub face. I count the blows with the 8 lb sledge hammer and I have never exceeded 20. I was a bit surprised that the bearing came out of the backing plate with so little work. I usually have to resort to heat and hammering. I found out about the bar from a friend who is a Subaru service manager.
Hi, please can you put a link where to buy the bar, I'll like to have it handy in my arsenal incase I run into one, thanks in advance.
What bar!?
@Paopolomololl Hi, I was actually asking eldoradony the question since he's the one that mentioned the bar.
After thinking about it for a minute I think he was referring to the Hub Buster bar which I already have.
Dear Eric - at 6:11 you mentioned my way. But said it doesn't work. I actually partially got this idea - from YOU. Because I've seen you use a very large Impact Hammer on the front - trying to get a Subaru Bearing off.
I live just outside of Seattle - so a LOT of stuff is readily available. For example - Tacoma Screw is just a couple of miles down the road. But hey - HD's and Lowe's are all over - and they also sell BOLTS.
So - this works like a charm.
FOUR - longer bolts of the same thread as the Bearing assembly. About 2" longer. Plus an air hammer socket adapter such as the 3715; or 37316;
Remove the 4 bolts holding the Bearing Hub in. Thread in your four LONGER same thread bolts into the Hub Assembly from the rear. Just so the threaded part of the bad bearing is filled. Install your Socket Adapter onto your Air Hammer. Put an impact socket onto the adapter. Air Hammer to the Rear - start driving out the Hub. Just alternate so you don't go cattywampus. Works. And easy peasy. No welding required.
You can also purchase the 8629 Universal Wheel Bearing Hub Removal Tool; and that works - but is more work than just the 4 longer bolts and the Air Hammer - which quickly make the Bearing Hub on any Subaru or other car - come out.
By far the worst rear wheel bearing that I ever did in my life! Just finished a 2014 Outback from Pennsylvania using your hack and still was hard to remove! Thanks for all your videos you have been a big help on more repairs than you'll ever know.
Very ingenious !! Thank you!
been doing this trick for a couple of years and never fails!
Thanks for this, I hammered on a 2014 Outback bearing for several hours before finding your video. Welded two jackbolt assemblies on to it as I could only find partially threaded bolts in local hardware store, that gave me enough gap to hammer chisels into both sides and break the housing loose.
Takes me back to the Subi dealership. Guys were actually super happy to get these (assuming they were cash and not warranty, which they were for the most part) because they paid so well and because of the method. We just took out the speed sensor, didn't even move the parking broke, and basically hooked up a big L-shaped piece of steel to two of the studs, then proceed to whack the everliving **** out of it with a sledge until it came off. It was a badge of honor as a new kid to get one of these off yourself and the whole shop would start teasing you/cheering you/jumping in if you had one that was really stuck. GRANTED, this was in New Jersey and not on the coast so I could see some being impossible through this means depending on the amount of rust.
Yeah I get these almost weekly here in CT. No welder aloud at firestone but the sledge and air hammer always gets it done.
Is it just as difficult on a 2000 outback?
@stevemurray710 I would say the newer are harder to get out. If you end up having to remove the whole knuckle on that 2000 though be ready to fight those long knuckle bolts. Having a hub remover/installer like the astro 78825 will make quick work of the older ones.
@@RulethenightGaming I don't think the 2000-2004 has the long knuckle bolts so I might be lucky there.
As the official bearing aficionado of this channel, I love this bearing video. Thanks for bringing us along, Eric!
Great video! I've had good success punching out a wheel stud and using the old bolt technique- but I weld the hub to the bearing case so it doesn't pull apart. Very similar
Owner of the vehicle watching this like 😱. Fine job Eric O. Get the job done by any means necessary.
Eric I wished you posted this 3 weeks ago. I spent 5 hours trying to break loose the bearing in my 2009 forester. I used the bolt forcing trick, air hammer and lots of beating.. ended up taking the knuckle out and placing it on boards and hammering it out. Once the knuckle was out it wasn’t too bad to hammer out.. if I would have taken the knuckle out right away it would have saved me 4 hours… thanks for this trick adding it to my bag of tricks for next time
Clever trick my friend. And some of the best welding I've seen today.
I used to really enjoy working on my own cars. Then I moved to New England and bought a Subaru. One of those rear wheel bearings was the first thing I was happy to pay a buddy to suffer through. Once you outlined a bunch of different ways with the caveat of, "Yeah and they all suck" I was like yep.
I love everything about this video. "If you can't weld good, weld a lot, that's what my motto is." Said while going straight through the puddle of penetrating oil, lol. I'm surprised the owner went that far but didn't care about new parking brake shoes and hardware.
This is the best commentary I have ever heard! Especially for a stuck wheel bearing! I am usually just slinging Fbombs... Great content and great commentary I just subbed and I don't have a Subaru!
Damn that was impressive. Never thought of doing that. Last time i did that for my wife’s car i just used a torch and hammer until it cracked loose. Took forever though. This is way cleaner, deff doing this next time 😁
Just another demonstration of inventive thinking, and use of cheap materials to achieve a consistent result in adverse conditions. Eric, your thinking process is priceless, and thank you for sharing your experience and skill for all to learn from. Nothing wrong with your welding, it worked!
It never fails. You find someone that knows exactly what he's doing and unfortunately he's 300 miles away. You can be sure that my local mechanic is going to get a copy of this when he works on my Subaru. great job, btw.
Thank you for continuing to share these videos!
Eric
you are a legend!
keep being awesome!
I did both of my rears after my Subaru had spent a year in Minnesota. Did it in my driveway with hand tools. I did the “tap the bolts” from behind method. I didn’t have any other options. I hadn’t done it before, and expected to be done in about 30 minutes. Roll in the SpongeBob clip “four hours later”… I have much better tools now, but haven’t had to do another one. I’ve done a few on my wife’s vehicle, but she has a Toyota, easy Peezy.
i will say this..those gloves your wear are AMAZING!! all that heat..no melt!
Brilliant video. Love watching work arounds like this.
You sir are the Subaru wheel bearing removal whisperer. 🤯 When I was young back in the later 1960's-early 1970's I used to hang out at a car repair shop and this awful to do job reminded me of tryng to remove the tapered hub and brake drum assemblies on Chrysler branded cars of the late 1950's-early 1960's as usually involved heavy slide hammers or ones where had to hammer on a threaded thing to get them even loose.
I noticed you placed the bolt opposite the speed sensor, excellent man you think of everything, most of the time. Another excellent labor saving video as usual!
I like the use of B.O.B as the monster on the thumbnail!
Nice job dude 👌
The AI sent me here, I'm a salty old Aussie mechanic who owns an early WRX. I'll keep this one in mind if I need new bearings.
Love the banter 👌
Another great job. I wish every mechanic was as professional, educated, and honest as you!!!! You amazingly make everything look easy!!!!
Made my own removal tool for just this job , used it several times now and saves a great deal of grunting
If you would care to make one for yourselves,here's how I made mine
Take a length of flat steel plate tool steel is best for the job ,it needs to be 10mm thick and 20 mm wide cut the length so that it's just long enough to pass the outside of each end of the hub looking at it horizontally ,then cut from the same stock two up stands that run from the bolt holes on the hub up to cover and overlap the the bar,drill two holes in each up stand to permit them to be fixed to the threads in the hub mark the position of the top holes on the cross bar and drill and tap with a suitable thread ,join together by bolting up then measuring an equal distance from the middle line of the hub drill and tap two more holes the bolts that pass through these are tightened evenly to pull the hub from the backing plate ,this method can be used without going to the bother of pulling the hub flange off first ,and also can be moved to be used on the lower bolts if required,if you have what you need to make this tool it should only take 40 or so minutes,which is much better than hours beating the crap out of a seized hub isn't it, also works on other wheel bearings like Toyota Yaris because you can adjust the mounting angle hope it's useful for someone.
A diagram would be nice. Im note quite seeing it in my mind, but sounds good
Agree. I diagram. 👍
Most definitely leave this for the professionals great job you have my respect.
Every time I watch these videos I’m so glad I moved from WNY and now live in Scottsdale, AZ. I remember trying to do brakes one Sunday afternoon on my old Honda and if felt like half of the bolts snapped off as a result of rust. I’ve had cars parked for a month outside and there wasn’t even rust on the rotors.
Did this on the neighbor’s 08 Tribeca.
Didn’t know what I was in for. Took like 5 hours, and a lot of hammering. Arms were sore for a week.
After that I made a list of things I would replace, things I never would, and how much I would charge to replace things for him. He hasn’t asked me to do anything for him since xD
I know he was using me as cheap labor. It was kind of an experiment for me. Wanting to see if I’d want to get into working on cars as a career. Decided against it, and that I’ll just stay at my current job of 7 years for now.
I’ll still do maintenance for my own car, and my dad’s car. (Live with parents still. Try and do a bunch to help them as thanks) Including changing tires. But I don’t have the excitement for doing simple oil changes on my family’s cars as I did a few years ago.
Did get to change my first window 2 weeks ago though. When my dad’s Kia Soul almost got stolen.
And I just finished installing a basic alarm system for it, to hopefully prevent another attempt. (Sourcing the steering column stuff was hard / expensive. Super easy to get the glass though)
That my friend, is known as "trial by fire." Don't give up after your first major battle... not every job is so stanky. And you won in the end, that counts for more than a little
A friend was quoted $3k for 4 hub bearings and rear rotors/pads from a local shop on an outback
Most impressive wheel bearing hub removal I've seen. Another tool in my forever hate relationship with wheel bearing hub replacements. Thank you!!
You can just use an air hammer to rotate the assembly by hitting the underside of the flanges the bolts go through. Slides right out after. That's how we did it at the dealership. Works like a charm.
doesnt always happen that easily with these subarus
Thanks for this. I knew I was in for a rough one doing this job tomorrow. I was ready to pull the whole knuckle off, but in the rust belt, the fewer fasteners you have to touch, the better. So I'm going to go straight for this method without trying anything else. Will report back to say how it goes.
Reporting back as promised. This method worked great. On the first side my welds started to fail and the bolt started going askew, but it was enough to break the rust union anyway.
I took what I learned from that near failure and on the otherside I preheated the bearing , welded two nuts as before, and used a broken bolt beneath them instead of a third nut. This time it came off like butter. Super easy. 110v flux core. Thanks South Main.