Why Are Wheel Bearings so Hard to Remove!! Subaru Rear Wheel Bearing Hub Replacement At Home!
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- čas přidán 21. 04. 2022
- Today we are replacing the rear wheel bearing hub on this Subaru Impreza with 161k miles on the odometer. We will do this with basic hand tools. I wouldn't say this is a hard job. This is a very time consuming job. My local shop quoted almost $800 (per wheel!) to replace. You can do this at home but give yourself sufficient time to do so. Tools and torque specs listed below. Cheers.
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►► Tools:
Safety Glasses: amzn.to/2BQKZ05
Breaker Bar: amzn.to/3156IIy
3lbs. Hammer: amzn.to/3MklAuI
Ratchet Set: amzn.to/3lsWnCo
Ratcheting Wrench Set: amzn.to/3L6qwTz
Torque Wrench: amzn.to/2QKBOWY
12mm / 14mm Offset Wrench: amzn.to/3EBwwBv
Puller Set: amzn.to/3rGyn2v
WD40: amzn.to/37Ar5qg
►► Parts:
Axle Nut: amzn.to/3k6e4aN
Rear Wheel Hub: amzn.to/3v39IHJ
►►► Subaru Repair Playlist:
• Subaru Repair
Torque Specs:
Rear Axle Nut - 140 ft lbs.
Wheel Hub Bearing Assembly - 50 ft lbs.
Caliper Bracket - 60 ft lbs.
ABS Sensor - 5 ft lbs.
Lug Nuts - 75 ft lbs.
This vehicle is a 2010 Subaru Impreza. The rear wheel hub is shared with the following vehicles - Subaru BRZ, Subaru Forester, Subaru Legacy, Subaru Outback and Toyota 86.
Note:
Any attempt to repair automotive parts and/or systems carries risk of personal injury. Always adhere and follow safe practices when working on vehicles. Such as, safety glasses, jack stands, no loose clothing, etc. No guarantee or warranty is implied. Use the information in this video at your own risk. Carsntoys is a member of the Amazon Influencer Program.
Publication, reproduction or distribution of this film is strictly prohibited.
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First I tried pounding the hub flange for an hour. Then I tried a puller and it pulled the outer 1/3 of the hub away from the other 2/3 of the hub which remained frozen to the backing plade and the axle mounting surface.. Now there was no longer a flange to beat on. I ended up driving a screw driver dozens of times between the backing plate and the axel mounting surface using a 3 pound hammer.. That eventually removed the backing plate and the inner 2/3 of the hub which were frozen together. After trying a dremel and pounding to separate them, they remained frozen. So I ordered a new backing plate to go with the new hub which meant reassembling the parking brake, Two days of labor on one rear wheel. But I'm 83 years old.
Finally, a video that applies to my ‘06 H3. Other videos don’t show the bashing to get it off. Thanks. I got very lucky it came off in 10 minutes.
boy, this guy's got some patients. Not the best way to do it from what I've seen but man's got some real fortitude!
I don't if this has been said already in the comments. The small bolt holding the brake hose bracket behind the caliper is the PERFECT size for pressing off the rotors. I normally unbolt those hose brackets anyway. With the slack, I can get the caliper out of the way. Rests right on the axle.
Awesome video. I like how you showed how to take the drum brake on and off. Other CZcamsrs don't touch it. It falls off and into pieces once the hub is free, and never really gets brought up on assembly.
This is the best video for this particular vehicle I’ve found on CZcams. Nice work my man.
Hey man i was in a jam. This got me through it! Hell yeah! Hub off! Down the road in no time!
Good timing. Getting the rear bearings replaced on my 06XT next week. Was going to have a shot at it myself , but after watching a string of videos I decided to leave it to the pros.
Damn right...05 xt same conclusion lol.
Hahaha don't give up
Astro 78834 is the best tool I used to remove the bearing. I was done in less than 15 minutes. South Main Auto used this tool and it definitely worked for me.
You have no idea the gift you gave me right here. Every bolt I bought from the store sheared off this worked. Thank you.
@jdub976 Don't thank me. Thank Eric O at South Main Auto channel! Glad someone was able to benefit on a old video like this one.
Thank you for this video. Finally decided to do this at home and got stuck at removing the hubs. Started to worry I was never going to get them off!
You can use the screw holding the brake line on the rotor screw holes. Perfect fit...
I just did my son's car, and what's even easier is replacing the CV axles and the hub simultaneously. They were not very expensive if you count the amount of time that it saves you in the end. Plus, you buy some life on those stupid grease boots that seem to crack and throw grease everywhere. I did all four of them around his car in about three hours.
You literally have the best Subaru fix-it page. I am so thankful for the knowledge you're sharing!
i had to swing out the knuckle and beat it out , only took about 5 mis from that point, works really well
Well done sir! Love watching your Subaru DIY videos.
wow.. amazing thought this would be as easy as changing a tire. so many moving parts. thanks ....
Hey! I've been using your videos to do a lot of my own work on my 09 Impreza. One thing I was wondering was if you could do a video on or even point me to some subject matter on the fuel tank pressure sensor. I have a check engine code P0453 and I've looked just about everywhere to see if anyone else has fixed the issue but I haven't had any luck. I know the sensor needs to be replaced but I have no idea where its located.
It's a good idea to hose down the interior of the brake drum with brake cleaner into a catch pan in order to wash all the brake pad dust away so you're not breathing it the whole time. It's not good for the lungs
2 days ago, I replaced 2 of these on the rear of a 2012 Outback, ending up having to remove the knuckles and applying 5000psi to the back of the bearings to get them to finally release. This is very common on Subarus. Also, had to cut out the front lower control arm rear bolts as they were frozen to the rear bushing sleeve.
Oh my goodness! Looks like that’s the way I’m headed now as only the inner bearing came out 😂 After working on cars in the PNW for most of my life, now I’m in the rust belt and NOT used to this level of rust and corrosion. Day 2…
Another thing you can do is take an old rotor and out it on backwards. Yeah t gives you a large surface area and leverage to hit it off when you hit it in the edge
Do you know if a 2007 Forester is the same set up? Good video ,Thank you.
how did you change the temp gauge by the dash clock, i think its stuck on celcius i want to switch to ferreinheit on a impreza 2008 hb
Hi please help I have toyota town ace turbo diesel 2000 model automatic
park, neutral, reverse and low gear are working but when i shift to 2 and drive it seems to be not changing gear
$40-50 per bearing, just did 4 on my 2010 Altima, FL car, 15 mins per, no rust. Rusty cars can be a nightmare no doubt.
would this be an ideal time to also replace the CV boots?
Dont let this guy scare you too much… i just did a rear bearing on an Impreza with lots of rust and it only took me 45 mins. You cant be too afraid to hit the bearing hard to get it out, and having nice tools to save time helps! No hate to this video tho it definitely helped me out thanks!
Thanks form the video.
My old wheel bearing came off easily, but it's stuck to the axil spline.
When pulled the axil and the wheal bearing assembly both coming off, but of course to a degree that axil length allows.
No idea how separate the bearing from the axil.
it's just weird problem, don't see anyone has encountered this.
Hoping you can help. After going through the hell of replacing the right rear wheel bearing, the axel is now locked up? Will not turn more than a couple of inches in both directions and then full lock? suggestions?
put the axle nut back on the axle when you are smacking it with the mini sledge hammer in case you miss the hub. If you foul the threads on the axle, you're looking at replacing the entire axle as well as the hub
Just did all four bearings on my 2010 Forester. BFH needed to bash the F out of each one. Came off eventually! (Rust top blame). But a fairly easy job besides the bashing! Pulling the flange didnt work either as the bearing pulled out - it was that seized! ALways remove ABS sensor if you need to bash them off though!
use a long slide air hammer or a hub shocker tool and they come out without too much trouble - also you should 100% be removing the ABS sensor before you start hammering on the hub - i deal with these all the time in the rust belt New England
Hey I am about to do this job on my '14 crosstrek. Can I leave the axle nut on while I slide hammer so that the bearing doesn't pull apart? Or is there anything delicate on the axle behind the wheel bearing?
Do you think it was too socked in for a slide hammer?
Soak that sucker in PB blaster and hammer it back and forth on either side. Take the sensor out that is on the top and that is where you can spray the PB blaster. The wood is going to absorb a lot of the force that you are putting out.
Before putting the hub back on it's a good idea to use anti seize so it's not rusted together next time
I mean my bearings lasted 210,000km (the factory bearings) on my 2000 Model GF8 WRX.
So anti seize would only be useful if i was going to still be driving it at 400,000km + while i plan on keeping it next 10-15 years i have done 65,000 in 9 years lol
I've seen that stuck hub removed by using an old rotor. Put it on backwards and tighten it down. Whack the edges. Obviously, use an OLD rotor that is no longer in service.
Would a puller have helped?
Thank you bald guy you're my lord and savior 🙏 Eight hours on a 2013 Right Rear
I have a good floor jack and lots of experience jacking up rear ends, e.g. Tacoma or any real wheel drive solid axle without too much load in the bed. With these, I've never had or caused trouble jacking up the entire rear end with the floor jack raising the center of the differential (the big round part of the rear axle). However I have been afraid to jack up my GF's 2015 Impreza that way since it doesn't look designed to lift the entire rear end of car! Hmm....obviously time to take another peek/attempt....
the rear jackpoint is the pumpkin
Maybe its the camera angle but it looks like you are hammering down not outward?
Why don't you use a three arm puller hon the hub???
What you never used a slide hammer 😆
Why didn't you use a puller?
Couldn't some sacrificial bolts be partially inserted from behind and pound it from behind?
why hammer when you have a extractor?
Safe yourself a ton of trouble and put your hammer away. Remove everything you did jut the wheel studs. Put the tire back on and raise the car with a floor jack. Place a 2x4 on end and lower the car with a jack stand in -lace for safety
Ps that trick won’t usually completely remove or but will break it loose
Just did rears on my 2018 impreza with 60k miles. Car looks new bearings wouldn't come out... What I did was to use an air hammer on two of the bolts in the back. That broke it loose barely.
I bought one of those big heavy hunk's of metal that you bolt to the studs of the bearing and hit with a BFH.. That got it off...It wouldn't come out of the backing plate omg....Put it on a blanket on my lap and beat the living snot out of it till they came out. Ran a Dremel on all the rusty surfaces. Prepped with coopper anti seize and reassembled...2 new bolts and goood to go..Why can't subaru use a little grease in there?
Bro I'm having the same problem with my 2018
@@acomman77 you can message me on fb if you need help
So just posted on another vid, I'll share, all the banging on those hubs isn't really needed, harbor freight sells a slide hammer with a hub adapter, put adapter on use lug nuts to tighten, install slide hammer and yank em out, cost at HF was 59.99 in TN.....I just did my 16crosstrek, both rears, rear diff fluid change and oil change in 2hrs start to finish with just jack stands in the garage floor.....the comment on anti seize is definately good comment when not if you do these again.....mine where pretty crusty at 96k but car has spent some significant time in Colorado salt, niether side took more than 5 thumps with slide hammer and popped right out ......thought I'd share, really easy bearings to change for the diy'er, a lot better than press out Honda civics.....whew those are a pain, these in comparison are super easy
I went that route as well. Didn't budge. Then I got a hub puller...which pulled the bearing out of the hub. Now I'm trying to spin what remains with a long barrel air chisel to break loose with generous amounts of PB Blaster.
@@stevofromiowa weird, I’ve done 2 different subbie rear bearings and both bearings on both subbies popped right out, didn’t use full force, just kinda slow tapped them straight and got a little harder each time, about 6 thumps and the pulled right out, I did clean the surfaces and apply anti seize so next time should be real easy
How come nobody shows how to do it in a 06-08 Forester?
I always thought you knocked the centre shaft back to break it then, whereas surely your trying brake a motion welded bearing. I must be wrong I guess. The fronts get knocked out with a centre punch.
What…. I pulled my brake backing shields off to cut them and everything just came off?? I don’t live anywhere near salted roads or the ocean though
I will be doing this shortly on a 2020
A half-inch battery-powered inpact gun is reasonably cheap. It does not have to be profesional grade, and is well worth the money. You can use it for all sorts of jobs. You can even get torque extension bars, and I have found these to be tolerably accurate. Check with a torque wrench anyway. The electric gun is not quite as good as an air impact gun, but pretty close, and you don't need an air-compressor.
You can over-torque using an impact wrench, but if you use common sense, and stop tighening before "clickage", you won't exceed torque. It is a myth that mechanics or anyone else can just feel the correct torque, but you can get close.
Buy a high torque cordless impact. Worth their weight in Gold.
Took me hours over multiple days to remove.
In 2006 that 36mm nut is stuck welded.
Leave the caliper on and remove the caliper and bracket as one unit
After losing the battle I won the war by buying a new knuckle and saving an a butt hole full of hemorrhoids
it took us about an hour
a 5 or, even better, a 10 lbs. slide hammer would do it in 10 to 20 minutes....
At least get an M12 1/2 inch stubby and an impact socket set.
I had to remove the whole spindle and hit it with an air hammer
It certainly isn't fun.
Yes, very easy...... what happened with the music?????
I don't understand your approach. Why not just use a slide hammer(if the axle is free) or other puller to get it out? I get rust sucks since I live in Ohio but it seems you went too far.
Doing this now and the takeaway seems to be to just keep beating on the son of a bitch. Although I will try the 2x4 method as well. Also using anti-seize.
thought about attempting this myself. I will not.
Dude invest in a slide hammer
dont have to remove the breaks
Hub buster. Thank me later
this guy making it complicated, wrong method and unncessary removing parts.
Why is it IMPOSSIBLE to find anyone doing this with the whole knuckle assembly. Literally noone will tell you how to disassemble the parking brake to put a whole new assembly on. Everything else is utterly worthless.
Do one side at a time so you can use the other side as reference.