How to Crimp Various Electrical Wires: Beginner and Expert Tutorial
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- čas přidán 29. 08. 2024
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Commenting long after the video, but this crimping tool he uses and suggests is THE. BEST. EVER. Mine came today and I started building my 14 gauge cables and I have never made such tight, accurate, beautiful crimps in my life. For less than 20 bucks, this is an amazing tool and you will be glad you have it.
I came here after reading the NASA 'Workmanship Standard for Crimping, Interconnecting Cables, Harnesses, and Wiring' (NASA-STD-8739.4). It is a mine of information on how finished connections should be but your video makes it so much easier to see how to properly make them. Many thanks.
For the xt60, plug the other half of the plug in for soldering. It keeps the pins aligned incase you do melt the plastic. Let it cool before unplugging. An extra bit of wire on the dummy side will also help dissipate heat
Beat me to it xo
Was looking for ages and only one that explains it well is here. Thanks Will.
Same as me..🤣
For weather proofing electrical tape wrapped ends, a good tip, is use PVC electrical tape, and use the same PVC Pipe glue you would used for PVC Pipes, just apply it to the outside with a light coating, it will meld all of the electrical tape and make it one solid covering providing a weather proof water tight covering so you will not have water infiltration between the end of the insulation into the wire end, that is as long as the extreme end of the wire is not exposed. Plus it keeps it from unraveling. Hope this helps Cheers...
Wow that's cool and I never heard of this! I gotta try this out.
Always great value, and a good reminder on how proper connections are made...
Thanks Will
I just bought your book and read it twice! This video helps with the set up of different gauge wires available locally. Thank You!
What is the name of his book
This is still solid advice and the kind of content I miss being the usual on CZcams
I'm sure someone's already mentioned but the hammer crimper you showed works great in a bench vise. Sort of a combination of the two methods you showed, allows for better crimping precision and cheaper for those of us that already have a vise.
This tutorial was fun to watch! As a radio amateur, I use the Anderson Powerpoles actually for all my 12V connections like equipment, batteries etc. While assembling the PP it is very important to push the connector into the red or black body until you here a clear "click". Then only the connector is properly installed. If no click, the wire will slide back pushed by the meeting connector , the contact will be loose. Pretty often, it is not possible to push the connector into the body just by holding the wire with your fingers since the wire is too flexible and tends to bend. I use a pair of pincers or long-nose tweezers to firmly hold the wire right at the connector's end and push it forwards firmly until that "click" sound. It's just my 2 pence :), Good luck! Linas (ham radio operator LY2H).
This was really helpful man. Thanks for the solid tutorial. I need to connect lights to a switch but I’m not 100% sure how to do that with my set up. There’s a bunch of videos on it but nobody explains things as well as you.
Thanks so much :D
Message me on Instagram with a picture of the lights
Great Job Will does!
quite possibly, the most informative video on CZcams.
You rock Will. I'm out in the desert helping a bunch of old ladies do solar. It's amazing how many of them know who you are and love you like I do. Doing Anderson connectors today for a patriot power station. I think I like these.
very thorough and easy to follow...thank you Will for all of your skill and help
The stove. Why didn't I think of that for heat shrink. You're a beautiful person Will
You are the crimp master, oh master of crimps
Nearly 50 years of electronics both as hobby and professionally. I never realized the terminal crimp color corresponded to the blade fuse amperage!
Thank you Will. Seriously. Today I had ordered a fuse box and really did not know how to adequately connect the wires to the connectors. I've been using wire cutters and pliers. I didn't even know until recently that those tubes that came with my connectors were heat shrink. Lol. Yup. Very useful.
Hey Will, great video as always. Allow me to add that every tool you are using is a high end / professional tool and well worth the extra cost. There are cheaper tools available that may look similar but are sub par at best.
Thanks Will, your video's don't give me a headache like the other one's do !!!
i have one of the hammer-type crimpers, bought it off a snap-on truck in the 1980's but i rarely use it with a hammer.. when i can i use it in a hydraulic press or at least in a bench vise, gives much better control over the crimp. i've only used it with a hammer when doing on-the-road emergency repairs. at one time this was the best low-cost crimping option but today we have chinese hydraulic crimpers copied off the greenlee and thomas and betts pro crimpers, but instead of costing hundreds or in some cases thousands of dollars you can get a copy that works well for well under a hundred bucks and works much better than the hammer crimper.
Link?
Incredibly intuitive and informative! Great video and STRAIGHT to the points!
Thanks to this video & your store, I've just ordered a crimper, heat shrink, & connectors from your store. I, very specifically have those 10 gauge in-line fuses with connectors attached to my car battery terminals which I'll now be re-doing because I didn't use good ring terminal connectors & didn't use heat shrink tubing.
I already have the Klein wire stripper that you recommend.
Warm Regards from Reno, Nevada to you..........hehehe Las Vegas
Great instructional video and good video editing. Back in the day the US Navy would give us classroom training for three days to learn what you did in a 15 minute video. Again, great job. It would help if I could find out where you got some of the crimpers and the large gauge wire stripper. I'll visit your web site.
Thank you very much!!….such an excellent tutorial with concise dialogue & terrific close up viewing!
Great job bro.. Hello from turkey... Iskenderun city 👋
Great advice, go with high quality and it will be easier and lasts longer.
This guy is on the money
I crimped my first 3/0 wire tonight using a hammer crimper, worked thanks for the tips, need to get a wire stripper for 1/0, 2/0, and 3/0 could not find the one you use, is there a link where to buy it
Love the xt60, use them for all my drones.
They are amazing
You really should make a video showing where everything goes wrong and how to fix those situations.
Show everyone the multitude of connectors available and application. Working in tight engine Bays perhaps.
Awesome video. Could you explain how to connect xt90 connectors on a DC watt meter?
Thanks so much for your videos. I've just watched a number of them and they are all excellent!
You have all the cool tools. Very informative!!
THAnks for dumming it down for us
Noticed your impact driver could not do the crimp. I have 3 of those drivers use them daily, in fact I have a variety of m12 tools. I suggest you pick up a m12 4.0 Ah battery. It adds a whole new range of power to the m12 tools especially the sawzall if you have it. The other benefit is it lasts a lot longer than the 2.0 Ah batteries that come with the tool.
No way. I had no idea. I'll have to try it. I love my impact so much
hopefully you put on the bigger ring-terminals a different way 2yrs after this video. Even if you don't have an electrical press you can do a much more professional crimp with a small hydraulic press which works with different press-jaws. The result not only looks better... it's simply a much better connection and works similar to a six-sided wire end sleve for smaller cables. Also you don't have such a big cap between the copper and the rubber-isolation. On the other side I learned a lot from your channel since the beginning of 2020! ;) Have a nice christmas Will Power... äööhmmm Prowse... ;)
I'm sure you probably figured out over the last 2 years that soldering connectors goes much better if you use flux. Still a bit of a 3 handed job. You can get a small bench vise or small soldering station vise/ 3rd hand with clips to hold the wire leaving both hands free for soldering, especially if you have a bunch to do. Put a very small amount of soldering flux (not acid flux.. that's for plumbing) on the wire and inside of the connector (I prefer paste when doing connectors, it's easier to control). Then if you pre-tin the tip of the soldering iron, the solder will easily flow into the joint. Add a bit more solder to make sure the joint is filled and you're done. Much faster so you won't melt the plastic!.
Kid is a genius
I love it! - using a gas stove to seal up a heat shrink connector. I'd expect using a magnifying glass or rubbing sticks together. Haha just kidding 10/10 vid chief
You're quite the electrical wizard, Pooky.
I have a Pro-Crimper tool that I was gifted years ago, but I just know noticed that it had different dies for different wires. Thought it was exclusively for Molex/Tyco 😲
Thanks for sharing this video.interesting and informative.
I was looking for the larger gauge wire crimps and did not find what I wanted so I watched your video and was trying to figure out the name of yours. All I got from watching was “Elect…” something. I searched but could not figure out the rest of the name. In the video the picture is blurry and you moved to fast for me to catch the name. Does anyone know?
Very helpful video! Thank you Will
Thanks for your time
Newbie here, thanks for vids! Curious what you use to connect wires to the solar charge controller. My bare wires always slip out. Thx!
for the racheting crimper the wire goes on the side with the colored dots. otherwise you won't get a goot connection
thanks a lot for the video...technically very useful and informative...thumbs up
I bought a soldering iron last year. Maybe you could go over more reasons you want to solder and more on how to actually solder?..Please. Thank you.
Very informative. One question, I didn't see you use any flux paste. What type of solder do you use?
Oh yeah it's rosin core solder. I need some flux paste
I much prefer a hex crimp over the indentation type crimp for 8 AWG and larger. Looks better and gives a more secure connection. The tools are a little more expensive though.
Thank you, this is very helpful me.
I don't like using the color butt connectors. I would either solder the wire or use non insulated butt connectors with heat shrink. It aesthetically more pleasing to look at it looks professional and prevents corrosion.
Hi Will,
Your yellow tool is not used right. Your color dots on your tool are supposed to be at the cable end! You cant use it both ways as in your video, its very important! And shrink tubed needs another tool.
I don't understand what you mean at all
Sorry, its hard to write in english for me. One crimp is made for the wire and one crimp for the strain relief. These two sides of the crimp die are not symmetrical. The side where the colored dot is, crimps the strain relief portion of the terminal and the other side crimps the wire end.
If you make a crimp with the wrong side of the crimping tools die, the crimp will not be correct and will likely fail.
Ohhh right. Good point. I never do that but you are totally correct. I got to accustomed to heatshrink connectors haha
Thank you, from the last frontier... ak...? i am going to try its out.
Great video I learned alot! Thank you!
A cheap harbor freight heat gun works great on the shrink tube
Hi can you please add a separate link for that crimping tool that you used for the impact. Thank you. Great informative video.
I'm here scouring the comments hoping to find a link for that 3-point impact crimp. Maybe this comment will help...
Can anybody tell me where to buy the base that holds the 3 point crimper
Thanks Will
HOWdy DIY-S-P-w-W-P, ...
Thanks for this INFORMATIONAL Video ...
COOP
the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA
...
Thanks for the Vid, What is the brand of the red Wire Stripper that you rotate around the bigger gauge round wire.... kinda like it :)
Hi Will, I love the channel! What's your take on pneumatic hand crimpers?
I saw another video where fellow compressed lug in a large bench vise with 4 AWG cable and a ball bearing strategically centered to give a healthy dimple Would this give a good enough crimp in your opinion?
How do you fit 4/0 lugs on the battery terminals when putting one on top of the other? Is it ok to bend lugs slightly? Otherwise the two lugs on top make a V shape which makes it challenging to keep wires shorter. Please help 🤗
Thanks god bless
Can you recommend a good crimper that does "high quality" crimps on 8 awg MC4 connectors... 8 awg seems to be an odd size, without a lot of crimping support... the big crimpers seem too big... and the small crimpers are too small...
What kind of vice is holding your 3 point crimper also what is the name of your book?
What connector do we use to connect the aluminum wire on a Daly bms, to copper wire.?? I wonder why Daly uses aluminum for the b- and p- and not copper ??
Will, is there a way to make a male USB to SAE cord? If so can you please tell me how to do it and/or possibly make a how to video?
such a great video
Good job!
Fantastic video!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Great video!! Thank u!!
??? Excellent video Will, best content video yet! Also, off topic question, but question nonetheless... What are you using to hold the camera you're videoing with? You have excellent angle, distance, and focus here, and it looks as tho you're able to keep your arms and hands free enough to be able to work in front of you. Thanks Will, -PJ
Oh thank you! Yeah it's a normal tripod actually. And a really good lens.
Great, thanks Will!
3:10 How do you know it's the right gauge wire for the fuse?
when I put my wires around the lug, its a bit loose, but when its crimped its tight as can be. Is that an issue or is it fine?
can you butt connect a #2 awg wire?
Very good!
Yasss thank you Will!
Thankyou
I’m not familiar with that connector , but in general , any metal connector housed in plastic will have a tab that locks it in.
I use a dental pick to push the tab down and separate the two before soldering.
Too easy to damage the plastic or wind up with a cold solder joint otherwise.
how many watts is the soldering iron?
Tools I recommend: www.mobile-solarpower.com/tools.html
Wire and crimp connectors that I recommend: www.mobile-solarpower.com/wire-and-connectors.html
No ratcheting cable cutter?
For crimpers or wannabe crimpers. Sorely needed information for the crimping marketplace. Crimpers would be a good name for a band.
This is satisfying to watch, haha
What is the make of that three point crimper?
amzn.to/2SEUzGl
@@WillProwse thanks will but I was looking for the large one you have on the little vice stand?
Yeah that's the one. The vice stand is a cheap harbor freight one.
Ok thanks have good one!
5:34 - what is this ratcheting crimper called ?
I've never done one of those with a ratcheting crimper that didn't either fall off or pull right off. How in the heck did you get that one to crimp so hard that you couldn't pull it off?
Maybe your crimping tool needs adjusting. There is often a wheel with indents, held in place by a small screw, that serves this purpose.
how to crimp solid wire?
Show me a wire crimper tool that securely crimps small 18 gauge or smaller wire. We both KNOW small gauge wires need to be soldered.
nice !
FANTASTIC VIDEO! I love! My new teacher! Can't get enough of; ''Wlllie Powers'' LOL
This is a Crimp-Walk Through
Hey Will sent you an email about a veteran project we are working on love to talk to you about it and figure out a good solar system for it hope to hear from you
Will, you never solder wires to connectors?
Never ever. It's not advisable.
@@WillProwse Look up how flux works and why the first attempt at the XT60 plug didn't work.
There are connectors that have soldered pins and there are Mil-Stds to describe them. At least that was the way things were in the 1970's US Navy.
@@WillProwse
I believe the hole in those big lug connectors is for soldering ...
A good connection has three components: mechanical connection (crimp), 100% electrical contact (proper tight crimp, perhaps soldering), and weatherproofing (heat shrink; solder adds a degree of sealing like on the “inside” end of those big lugs.
Solder is a concern for being ‘not advisable’ for one specific reason: if it flows up the wire, it makes the wire stiff and it becomes subject to vibration and eventual failure. See the ABYC guide on DC wiring for a reference. And SAE has warnings regarding same.
But those big lugs show the “right” way- flow a little solder in after the crimp but with quick heat and not enough solder to flow into the wire end shoulder.
Just food for thought
And how to crimp solid wire? All wires in your video stranded.
step 1. Solder wire end
step 2. Ditch plastic bits on crimp attachments
step 3. Crimp attachment to wire
step 4. Solder outside ( this also melts the inside solder on the wire end)
step 5. Shrink your shrink tube. DONE!
crimps are unreliable on their own, gotta guarantee the connection stays tight and solid....3 layers of connection is better than 1.
Absolutely false. You NEVER want to tin the tip of a crimp connection wire. Please look up safety codes for marine and aerospace application. Crimping is better than soldering. Please read how they work, because this comment is absurd.
clearly your didnt read my full comment.....
YES, you are 100% right....,if you ONLY solder the wire before crimping, it can come lose through the crimping process,thermal contraction and expansion ect..... and is normally a thing you should NOT do.
BUT.......If you put a SECOND coating of solder on the OUTSIDE of the crimp and wire, which forms its own connection, and also reflows the solder on the inside of the crimp, this method fixes the problem of crushing the inner solder during the crimp process, and keeps the connection from having a thermal expansion/contraction problem that causes bad connections. in the end, its as reliable of a connection as ANY other soldered connection......... and soldered connections are more reliable than crimped ( thats why most electronics are soldered!!!)
PS my method is not covered in any manual, manuals end at step 1 of my method....they do not cover the second, OUTER coating of solder.....if you fully read my comment, and the manuals you praise, you would realize this.
the only absurd thing here, is your assumption that you know everything, and things can only be done one way!
No, this is something I understand very well and my dad taught me at a young age, and I learned about in college when studying about cold welding occuring on communication satellites. Doing a true crimp, where the connector is truly terminated, is a cold weld by definition. The two metals become one. It is a mechanical point. A solder joint is not. It is a chemical connection. Totally different. And any solder on that wire will completely defeat the whole purpose of the cold weld process. A true cold weld will be a gas tight joint, and corrosion is impossible. That is a fact. I have had older guys try to argue this point and they are wrong. And if you need to protect a connector, you need aerospace grade or marine grade heat shrink.
And if you come up with a better way, please tell me. There is a reason why NASA, boat builders and aerospace industry use crimping. It is better and longer lasting than any solder job. This is a fact. Your method may work for backyard projects, but not for anything that needs to stand up to regulatory codes.
@@WillProwse
again, agree, with some of your statements, cold welding can bond with great force, BUT your example of nasa using it is not a valid one as, those metals are cold welding in a VACUUM, which is much more bonding than a cold weld inside earths atmosphere, this is why nasa had problems in the past with things like hinges cold welding shut, but those problems did not occur while the spacecraft was on earth, the problems only show up once in the vaccum of space! Most people dont have access to the type of vacuum needed for cold welding to be its best. Also Cold welding relies on the metals being similar enough to bond, this is why hinges on space craft are now usually made from 2 unrelated metals (like titanium and brass), so they dont bond. If your wire is copper, and you have a steel connector crimped to it ( like shown in your video) little to no cold welding is gonna happen, especially with out the vacuum.
regulatory codes are for people who need to be told WHAT to think, but dont know HOW to think. THey are a good place to start, but not the end all be all of how to do things. If you have an understanding of what you are doing, you can apply that logic on your own, and find out what works, and what dosnt work..... dont just blindly accept doctrine, experiment on your own........i know for a fact, from my real life experience, my connections have NEVER failed, from 1.5v to 120v...AC or DC.... ive never had ONE failure from this type of connection. Crimps, both "professionally" done in a factory, or done my self, usually resulted in bad connections, or have just fallen apart eventually....... all my experience says crimps are unreliable...... ill stick with what works, till i find something better, so far, i havent.
PS thanks for the replies Will.... even though we disagree, its nice to see a youtuber that takes the time to respond to their viewers. i especially like that you gave a detailed reply, rather than single sentence or 2 , truly, this is not sarcasm, thank you! keep it up, im sure others appreciate it as well.