Do not move on from step 1 (pointed side of medium stone) until the knife is sharp. Once you have it sharp, 20 passes on medium flat, 20 passes on fine point, 20 passes on fine flat, strop with green compound...razor sharp.
Why are you using the 20 degree inclusive on a Mora Scandi grind? Did you change the bevel for that knife or can you use that 20 degree angle on a Mora?
I have the Worksharp Ken Onion sharpener and love it. It can take off the metal for re-profiling a blade as well as just hone a blade...it all depends on the belt that you have on the machine. I also have the older Spyderco Sharpmaker and love it just as well. Both work well and will get any knife or cutting tool shaving sharp...the Workshop will just do it quicker (it does have a slight learning curve).
I like the worksharp for reprofiling (actually it really struggles with some super steels like S90V and the belts get eaten in a few minutes then) but I feel like the sharpmaker is super convenient for just maintaining the knife... Reprofiling anything to 15° with the sharpmaker takes 1 hour minimum, sometimes several hours, even with CBN rods, I cba
I like the V shape sharpener like this 👍 This style makes it easy to keep the blade at the correct angle 👍 I have a V shape sharpener made by Smith's but it's only got ceramic rods. TFS
I can't tell which one of my stones is the fine, and which one is extra fine. They look and feel the same. Both white. One pair has red painted on the ends.
Jurriaan Van Kampen - well, since you asked...that Mora has a Scandinavian edge on it, meaning the the primary edge on the knife is the only edge. The proper way to sharpen a Scandi edge is to lay the primary edge on the stone and sharpen the whole bevel as the angle is already set. What Beactive is doing here is, he’s putting a secondary micro bevel on the Scandi edge, which while it was effective, is not how a Scandi edge is maintained. The purpose of a Scandi edge is facilitate the ease of sharpening by sharpening placing the blade on that main bevel on a flat surface and sharpening along it.
You are correct on the Scandi edge, but I do prefer the secondary micro bevel. I have sharpened my Mora's this way in the past with much success.Thanks
Do not move on from step 1 (pointed side of medium stone) until the knife is sharp. Once you have it sharp, 20 passes on medium flat, 20 passes on fine point, 20 passes on fine flat, strop with green compound...razor sharp.
Is that from the exciting Spyderco dvd?
Why are you using the 20 degree inclusive on a Mora Scandi grind? Did you change the bevel for that knife or can you use that 20 degree angle on a Mora?
I have the Worksharp Ken Onion sharpener and love it. It can take off the metal for re-profiling a blade as well as just hone a blade...it all depends on the belt that you have on the machine. I also have the older Spyderco Sharpmaker and love it just as well. Both work well and will get any knife or cutting tool shaving sharp...the Workshop will just do it quicker (it does have a slight learning curve).
You're two standard deviations from the mean.
I like the worksharp for reprofiling (actually it really struggles with some super steels like S90V and the belts get eaten in a few minutes then) but I feel like the sharpmaker is super convenient for just maintaining the knife...
Reprofiling anything to 15° with the sharpmaker takes 1 hour minimum, sometimes several hours, even with CBN rods, I cba
I like the V shape sharpener like this 👍 This style makes it easy to keep the blade at the correct angle 👍 I have a V shape sharpener made by Smith's but it's only got ceramic rods. TFS
I like the surgical black Arkansas. Even though I agree with you on getting the angles right.
I can't tell which one of my stones is the fine, and which one is extra fine. They look and feel the same. Both white. One pair has red painted on the ends.
The white ones with the red points on the ends are the extra fine. All the best
Very enjoyable and relaxing video.
This vid is like watching water boil. Very exciting!!👍🏼
I don't think this system would work too good on a convex blade......
It would. You can lay the stones sideways on the bottom of the base and it's exactly like a bench stone
What model is the benchmade?
535 Bugout, GRY model straight edge
that's a stupid sharp knife, hairs flying everywhere. great vid!
I was gonna tell you how you’re doing wrong...but you probably don’t care.
JKC what is he doing wrong?
Jurriaan Van Kampen - well, since you asked...that Mora has a Scandinavian edge on it, meaning the the primary edge on the knife is the only edge. The proper way to sharpen a Scandi edge is to lay the primary edge on the stone and sharpen the whole bevel as the angle is already set. What Beactive is doing here is, he’s putting a secondary micro bevel on the Scandi edge, which while it was effective, is not how a Scandi edge is maintained. The purpose of a Scandi edge is facilitate the ease of sharpening by sharpening placing the blade on that main bevel on a flat surface and sharpening along it.
You are correct on the Scandi edge, but I do prefer the secondary micro bevel. I have sharpened my Mora's this way in the past with much success.Thanks
JKC goteem