Man I thought my 8 x 3 Spyderco uf ceramic was the be all, end all! Then Rough Rooster came around and talked me into getting a Dan's surgical black! Thanks!
Ceramics are just another tool in the box. I found out about the eraser technique a long time ago and it is the easiest for a sharpening session period! Thanks dude and have a great week my man..................
I agree Hector. I use Bar Keepers Friend and Dawn dishwashing soap and a stiff brush on all my sharpening stones. And using a Scotch-Brite scouring pad with the Bar Keepers Friend the rods comes clean very quickly
Great topic, I'd love to hear more on ceramics! For my personal ceramic stones I like a white colored rust eraser from eBay for like $6 dollars and lasts for ever for the hard to get stuff and the light stuff on my rods a Mr. Clean magic eraser works well.
Jason Erickson bar keeper friend with those mr clean foam erasers brings ceramics and at least some diamond stones back to good as new condition. Does destroy the mr clean foam things though.
For me ceramics have a place and do a good job where they fit. I clean mine with 2-3 drops of honing oil. Wipes clean but I don’t have to do it often because I use them with soap and water and wipe them clean after each use. And no the oil doesn’t build up in the stone.
I just got a Norton ascent ceramic stone 8x3x1/2 . Was supposed to give a better edge than a Arkansas translucent . Hmmm. After sharpening several knives on it , sorry but I'm not buying the hype . Don't get me wrong it's good . Supposed to be finer than a 8000 grit Norton water stone . First off , it's doesn't do better than my dans translucent , not faster and not a finer edge . But it's close , one knife , a shrade , it dulled , so I had to put it back on my blue black from dans . I tried a small blue black against the ceramic , it didn't seem to leave a scratch on the BB . I would put it slightly below a dans translucent . I'll keep testing it . It does load up fast , so I don't regret buying it but I feel like it's being over hype by sharpening supplies who I bought it from . Just keeping it real .
I recently found a few sites selling the spyderco stones medium, fine, UF. Cut and mounted to edge pro blanks. Seems cool, I’d love to try them for my edge pro. Obviously still need a couple stones at a lower grit for a re-beveling and edge repair
Man... get a sticky lint roller for clothes and it pulls the buildup off all the ceramics and whatever stones you have. They gotta be dry obviously. You gotta try it
Honing straight razors for 20 years. Naniwas, Shapton Pros, Nortons, coticules, Thuringians, Escher, Guanxi and all. Best edges ever for me come with a 2k lapped translucent Arkansas followed by a 2k-lapped Spyderco UF, used under running water.
@@roughroosterknifesharpenin5531 Yes, that's what I thought until I tried it over and over again. The lapped UF (and it must be lapped that finely) clearly improves upon the edge made by the translucent.
@@drmoss_ca That's you're problem. If you'll use wet dry automotive paper and lap it by hand I can guarantee you'll get a better edge. You can't finish a stone just with sic, it creates very small craters throughout the surface.
On my ceramic rod, when I'm done with it each time, I wipe it with a Goof Off wipe, and it cleans it right up. I don't know if it would work if you let it go and build up, but it works fine if you keep up with it. The eraser looks like it works good. If I ever run out of the wipes, Ill just grab an eraser.
Amen, Chris to the comment about the Sharpmaker and all the equivalent "rod boxes". I do use one - for one knife. I've got an old Farber ware chef knife from Walmart that happens to be my everyday cook's knife. I have it profiled for 17°/34° inclusive and the Lansky Master Sharpener happens to have a 17° setting and it works for that particular knife. Don't use it for anything else. Stupid investment to use on just one knife but that is my go-to knife and I just stick with it because it does what I need done. Back to the Sharpmaker...it has a 20° setting and I've heard it is tailor made for ESEE but might not work for other knives. The point is, you have to have a tailor-made knife to match the rod box, reprofile to match it or do some fanagalin - and, if you do that, you're just as well off with a cheaper ceramic rod.
I do love my spyderco ceramics, but they arent the best thing out there. Just like any other stone, they are good at some things, and not so good at other things. The way I clean mine is with a green pot scrubber ( scotch brite is the name if I remember right ) with warm water, and Comet cleaning powder, literally looks brand new after a few seconds of scrubbing
I like that eraser trick...gotta try it. I use my ceramics a good amount...mostly for touch ups...I try not to let my edges get to dull. The sharpmaker isnt a bad system it's just underpowered for today's super steels even if you get the diamond rods or cbn rods...mine is mostly used for small joint lock knives...mostly either my victorinox or Wenger's or older buck or case knives..for the softer steels it seems to be fine. There was an old youtuber jdavis that had gotten a hair whittling edge off of the sharpmaker, but I cant recall the steel..the knife was a spyderco. I need try some of the other cleaning methods as well especially for the spyderco uf..it loads up rather quickly. Been using comet and a wet scotch pad..but it's way to much work..lol yea yea I'm getting lazy in my old age..lmao Great video with a nifty cleaning trick..ty I need search through your older videos and see if you have one on "sharpening steels" there is such a misconception on those its humorous.
@@roughroosterknifesharpenin5531 I agree that they are way over priced... I'm not sure which was put out first...I believe the sharpmaker was spyderco's first product...work sharp just recently put out a product I think in conjunction with ken onion that seems to be very interesting...with many more angles to choose from. If for nothing else I credit the sharpmaker for pushing me down that darn rabbit hole..lol and got me into free hand...but that's just me...like I mentioned in a reply to sam... I do have a plethora of systems..I guess wr all look for that magic bullet to make things easier, then we end up with buyers remorse...that's why I keep telling myself.. they are tools..lol But the misconception I think the steels get are so many people actually think they are sharpening their knives....that's certainly not the case...unless they confuse a ceramic rod with the steels...or they are using a diamond rod. When it gets explained I get this dazed look...I find it funny....lol
Rough Rooster Knife Sharpening Green silicon carbide is just a higher purity SiC than black. It’s basically the first carbide invented, extremely hard, harder than even the black carbide. (9.4 vs 9.2) You can try a scratch test with it with a norton carborundum stone, the green stone should scratch the black. They don’t typically make green SiC whetstones anymore. Green SiC is mostly relegated to industrial applications as it’s the only non-diamond substance capable of grinding tungsten carbide. And green/black carbide dates back to 1891.
Sweet! Goona check me out some Idahoans ceramic for sure. Just ordered the Spyderco "fine" grit benchstone, already have the "medium" grit one, never used the "ultra fine" looks like the one you have. Didn't know about the micro bevel a blade edge can get from the rods either, I've always liked to finish up with a rod for some reason, better give that bad habit up I guess:)
@@roughroosterknifesharpenin5531 . My particular blade (native 5) appears to have gotten a good heat treatment and it performs as well as spyderco's ZDP, but appears, to paradoxically, be tougher even though it has a higher rockwell #. Going to see how edge holds up on some cocobolo scraps. The venev paste is quite inexpensive on amazon, and I have tested it on leather, denim, paper, flat card board, and balsa with success.
Buy some Japanese nagura stones to clean the ceramics, will make surface like new again. You do have get smaller grit size stone for best performance. The Spyderco Ultra-fine is actually 5000 grit, I use my old #8000 grit Japanese stone to create a slurry to enhance sharpening ability and clean afterwards.
I have lapped this ceramic, along with all of my other stones. So I make the surface a specific grit. The Nagura stones are not intended for this purpose, I use much much finer Arkansas stones as well. And I'm sorry but slurry in general creates an inferior edge to the edges I can achieve with methods.
@@roughroosterknifesharpenin5531 I agree slurry is just a japanese myth in creating a better edge. I use the slurry to help carry away the metal particles and easier cleaning of my spyderco ultra-fine. Just found Idahone ceramics on Amazon for 1/2 price of Spyderco, thanks for the review which gives me confidence in my new ceramic stone purchase.
I have the Spyderco ultra fine as my finishing stone. Will Dans black stone really make my knives sharper if I finish on that stone after the ultra fine? Kjkblade
Rough Rooster Knife Sharpening Spyderco ultra fine then translucent then dans black sound the way to go or do I not need the translucent? Thanks for your opinion.
Rough Rooster Knife Sharpening yeah , I was trying to flatten it , green slurry . The whole time I was thinking , what the heck is this ? I remember my dad got it when I was young . So it's been around .
@@robertmunguia250 I'm not understanding what you are asking. What do you mean what's a good preference? A preference is something one desires or prefers more than the other. ??
Man I thought my 8 x 3 Spyderco uf ceramic was the be all, end all! Then Rough Rooster came around and talked me into getting a Dan's surgical black! Thanks!
Lone Star Dude 😂😂😂
Good video. Bar keepers friend works really good on cer. Stones.
Ceramics are just another tool in the box. I found out about the eraser technique a long time ago and it is the easiest for a sharpening session period! Thanks dude and have a great week my man..................
Thanks for the Eraser tip! How sweet is that. Always learning something new on your Channel.
I agree Hector. I use Bar Keepers Friend and Dawn dishwashing soap and a stiff brush on all my sharpening stones. And using a Scotch-Brite scouring pad with the Bar Keepers Friend the rods comes clean very quickly
Great topic, I'd love to hear more on ceramics! For my personal ceramic stones I like a white colored rust eraser from eBay for like $6 dollars and lasts for ever for the hard to get stuff and the light stuff on my rods a Mr. Clean magic eraser works well.
Super easy to clean with beekeepers friend works amazing you can pick it up at the dollar store walmart etc. Try it you will love it
Jason Erickson bar keeper friend with those mr clean foam erasers brings ceramics and at least some diamond stones back to good as new condition. Does destroy the mr clean foam things though.
Barkeepers friend, comet, ajax, or any other powder abrasive cleanser works great on the spyderco stones.
so does the dishwasher!
For me ceramics have a place and do a good job where they fit. I clean mine with 2-3 drops of honing oil. Wipes clean but I don’t have to do it often because I use them with soap and water and wipe them clean after each use. And no the oil doesn’t build up in the stone.
Good video!! Thanks for sharing brother!!👊👊
I just got a Norton ascent ceramic stone 8x3x1/2 . Was supposed to give a better edge than a Arkansas translucent . Hmmm. After sharpening several knives on it , sorry but I'm not buying the hype . Don't get me wrong it's good . Supposed to be finer than a 8000 grit Norton water stone . First off , it's doesn't do better than my dans translucent , not faster and not a finer edge . But it's close , one knife , a shrade , it dulled , so I had to put it back on my blue black from dans . I tried a small blue black against the ceramic , it didn't seem to leave a scratch on the BB . I would put it slightly below a dans translucent . I'll keep testing it . It does load up fast , so I don't regret buying it but I feel like it's being over hype by sharpening supplies who I bought it from . Just keeping it real .
Thanks for the tip with the eraser! I didn't know that. I need to get a better ceramic rod and a bigger ceramic plate or two.
You can lap ceramic and if you are persistent, the results are amazing and well worth the time spent.
Nice video Chris. Always good information as always.
I recently found a few sites selling the spyderco stones medium, fine, UF. Cut and mounted to edge pro blanks.
Seems cool, I’d love to try them for my edge pro.
Obviously still need a couple stones at a lower grit for a re-beveling and edge repair
Love your channel brother!
Thanks man 👊
Man... get a sticky lint roller for clothes and it pulls the buildup off all the ceramics and whatever stones you have. They gotta be dry obviously. You gotta try it
Honing straight razors for 20 years. Naniwas, Shapton Pros, Nortons, coticules, Thuringians, Escher, Guanxi and all. Best edges ever for me come with a 2k lapped translucent Arkansas followed by a 2k-lapped Spyderco UF, used under running water.
Going to the uf after a translucent is back peddling. With my stones anyway. All my arks are No1 quality
@@roughroosterknifesharpenin5531 Yes, that's what I thought until I tried it over and over again. The lapped UF (and it must be lapped that finely) clearly improves upon the edge made by the translucent.
@@drmoss_ca what kind of trans are you using? Because my edges are drastically sharper on a trans after the uf.
@@roughroosterknifesharpenin5531 This is an older Norton lapped on one side with 2k silica carbide by Tim Zowada - the knife and razor maker.
@@drmoss_ca That's you're problem. If you'll use wet dry automotive paper and lap it by hand I can guarantee you'll get a better edge. You can't finish a stone just with sic, it creates very small craters throughout the surface.
On my ceramic rod, when I'm done with it each time, I wipe it with a Goof Off wipe, and it cleans it right up. I don't know if it would work if you let it go and build up, but it works fine if you keep up with it. The eraser looks like it works good. If I ever run out of the wipes, Ill just grab an eraser.
Timbo437 everyone swears by that stuff for everything. I think I’m going to have to get some and try it out. Thanks man
Bubba talking about stone's. I'm hitting the yard sales up this year.
Try out a “plastic” eraser (the typical white ones) I find they work a lot better than even the pink ones
I use a scrubbing pad to clean my crock sticks works good removes all metal
Amen, Chris to the comment about the Sharpmaker and all the equivalent "rod boxes". I do use one - for one knife. I've got an old Farber ware chef knife from Walmart that happens to be my everyday cook's knife. I have it profiled for 17°/34° inclusive and the Lansky Master Sharpener happens to have a 17° setting and it works for that particular knife. Don't use it for anything else. Stupid investment to use on just one knife but that is my go-to knife and I just stick with it because it does what I need done. Back to the Sharpmaker...it has a 20° setting and I've heard it is tailor made for ESEE but might not work for other knives. The point is, you have to have a tailor-made knife to match the rod box, reprofile to match it or do some fanagalin - and, if you do that, you're just as well off with a cheaper ceramic rod.
Jean Bean have not heard the esee thing. Odd but yes I agree
I have a sharpmaker. Never got the hang of it I guess. I now keep the rods in my backpack incase I need a quick touch up at work.
Yea the material is excellent. But the device is junk
I could have got a damn nice stone from Dan for what I paid for it too.
@@sharpwhits0167 yep lol
I do love my spyderco ceramics, but they arent the best thing out there. Just like any other stone, they are good at some things, and not so good at other things. The way I clean mine is with a green pot scrubber ( scotch brite is the name if I remember right ) with warm water, and Comet cleaning powder, literally looks brand new after a few seconds of scrubbing
I put instructions on one of your videos - on how to use muratic acid. It makes them brand new.
Coorstek makes them.
I'm gonna assume that the green kamen is Case 6" Oilstone.
Spyderco ceramics for the win! I am waiting for their CBN bench stone to be in stock where I grab my stuff!
Hey rooster!
Spyderco uf is 3 micron that is 4000 Grit (jis) or 1200 Grit (fepa-f)
The little Dark ceramic looks like a barber hone,
Simon Volsmann ah ok gotcha. It looks like it but I don’t think it is
Rough Rooster Knife Sharpening my uncle was a barber but I don't think my dad got it from him , I'll ask him . I wondered that too
Sam4yeshua that would be cool to know
Bar keeper's friend abrasive polish works pretty well for cleaning ceramic stones.
I like that eraser trick...gotta try it. I use my ceramics a good amount...mostly for touch ups...I try not to let my edges get to dull. The sharpmaker isnt a bad system it's just underpowered for today's super steels even if you get the diamond rods or cbn rods...mine is mostly used for small joint lock knives...mostly either my victorinox or Wenger's or older buck or case knives..for the softer steels it seems to be fine.
There was an old youtuber jdavis that had gotten a hair whittling edge off of the sharpmaker, but I cant recall the steel..the knife was a spyderco.
I need try some of the other cleaning methods as well especially for the spyderco uf..it loads up rather quickly. Been using comet and a wet scotch pad..but it's way to much work..lol yea yea I'm getting lazy in my old age..lmao
Great video with a nifty cleaning trick..ty
I need search through your older videos and see if you have one on "sharpening steels" there is such a misconception on those its humorous.
I don't have one on sharpening steels. May do one someday. And I can't stand a sharpmaker. They are hyped up crox stix.
@@roughroosterknifesharpenin5531 I agree that they are way over priced...
I'm not sure which was put out first...I believe the sharpmaker was spyderco's first product...work sharp just recently put out a product I think in conjunction with ken onion that seems to be very interesting...with many more angles to choose from.
If for nothing else I credit the sharpmaker for pushing me down that darn rabbit hole..lol and got me into free hand...but that's just me...like I mentioned in a reply to sam... I do have a plethora of systems..I guess wr all look for that magic bullet to make things easier, then we end up with buyers remorse...that's why I keep telling myself.. they are tools..lol
But the misconception I think the steels get are so many people actually think they are sharpening their knives....that's certainly not the case...unless they confuse a ceramic rod with the steels...or they are using a diamond rod. When it gets explained I get this dazed look...I find it funny....lol
Could it be the green silicon carbide?
I can see the saw marks on my spyderco fine and ultra fine stones also. For the price they should be completely flat.
Exactly
Green silicon carbide stone is what that is.
It’s probably a vitrified bonded stone as well, making it impermeable to water.
Occams Sawzall idk man. It’s really old. Idk if they had that back when
Rough Rooster Knife Sharpening
Green silicon carbide is just a higher purity SiC than black. It’s basically the first carbide invented, extremely hard, harder than even the black carbide. (9.4 vs 9.2)
You can try a scratch test with it with a norton carborundum stone, the green stone should scratch the black.
They don’t typically make green SiC whetstones anymore. Green SiC is mostly relegated to industrial applications as it’s the only non-diamond substance capable of grinding tungsten carbide.
And green/black carbide dates back to 1891.
Have you tried the rust eraser? I use the fine to clean the load up out of my stones. It holds together much better than a regular eraser.
I have them things are nasty.
Sweet! Goona check me out some Idahoans ceramic for sure. Just ordered the Spyderco "fine" grit benchstone, already have the "medium" grit one, never used the "ultra fine" looks like the one you have. Didn't know about the micro bevel a blade edge can get from the rods either, I've always liked to finish up with a rod for some reason, better give that bad habit up I guess:)
I didn't get a true mirror polish by using the ultrafine stone alone, but I stropped with venev diamond paste and it looks like a rockstead now.
Dan Dildarious but does it perform well? No need for that expensive stuff.
@@roughroosterknifesharpenin5531 . My particular blade (native 5) appears to have gotten a good heat treatment and it performs as well as spyderco's ZDP, but appears, to paradoxically, be tougher even though it has a higher rockwell #. Going to see how edge holds up on some cocobolo scraps.
The venev paste is quite inexpensive on amazon, and I have tested it on leather, denim, paper, flat card board, and balsa with success.
Dan Dildarious I just can’t pay that much for strop stuff. Not worth it to me. What steel are you using?
@@roughroosterknifesharpenin5531 Everything from AUS 8 to ZDP :)
cool
Spray Windex on your Spyderco ceramic while you work and wipe and respray now and then. Helps lessen your load up in the end.
I use dawn and water on mine
Buy some Japanese nagura stones to clean the ceramics, will make surface like new again. You do have get smaller grit size stone for best performance. The Spyderco Ultra-fine is actually 5000 grit, I use my old #8000 grit Japanese stone to create a slurry to enhance sharpening ability and clean afterwards.
I have lapped this ceramic, along with all of my other stones. So I make the surface a specific grit. The Nagura stones are not intended for this purpose, I use much much finer Arkansas stones as well. And I'm sorry but slurry in general creates an inferior edge to the edges I can achieve with methods.
@@roughroosterknifesharpenin5531 I agree slurry is just a japanese myth in creating a better edge. I use the slurry to help carry away the metal particles and easier cleaning of my spyderco ultra-fine. Just found Idahone ceramics on Amazon for 1/2 price of Spyderco, thanks for the review which gives me confidence in my new ceramic stone purchase.
I have the Spyderco ultra fine as my finishing stone. Will Dans black stone really make my knives sharper if I finish on that stone after the ultra fine? Kjkblade
Peyton and Hayden oh yea lots sharper.
Rough Rooster Knife Sharpening Spyderco ultra fine then translucent then dans black sound the way to go or do I not need the translucent? Thanks for your opinion.
Peyton and Hayden it depends on what you want. And your level of sharpening capabilities. The translucent then the black would be great.
Think about it like lead on paper I've been doing it for 10 years
Also use the big white eraser
I've gotten a slurry off the old green stone before .
Sam4yeshua I thought it was you that sent that. A slurry?
Rough Rooster Knife Sharpening yeah , I was trying to flatten it , green slurry . The whole time I was thinking , what the heck is this ? I remember my dad got it when I was young . So it's been around .
Sam4yeshua that’s crazy. I’m going to start using it more
You got a bad Spyderco. Apparently their quality control sucks.
Every person I've ever talked to has the same exact issue with the uf stone. And we have contacted Spyderco. They say that's just how they are
Ceramic or Arkansas?
What do you mean?
@@roughroosterknifesharpenin5531 that stone you’re using? What’s a good preference? Just ordered Arkansas combination stone. Dans whetstone.
@@robertmunguia250 I'm not understanding what you are asking. What do you mean what's a good preference? A preference is something one desires or prefers more than the other. ??
@@roughroosterknifesharpenin5531 what I’m asking is do you prefer Arkansas or Ceramic? What’s the better choice?
@@robertmunguia250 it depends on what steel I'm sharpening and what level of sharpness I'm looking for.
Spyderco shapmaker is way to much money. For what it is.
EDC GEAR & POCKET KNIFE completely agree.
Barkeeper’s Friend cleans ceramics great. I use a scotch rite kitchen pad and it gets them spotless