How not to use Spyderco medium sharpening stone
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- čas přidán 8. 09. 2024
- This is the first time I am using a Spyderco medium bench stone.
I do not have previous experience with Spyderco's Sharpmaker system.
Although that Spyderco claims that man can use a medium stone for sharpening dull knives I did my homework and at least in theory I was prepared to see slow rate of abrasion, fast load up and many, many passes.
This video represents adding first person experience to the expectations I had.
I did not found feature length sharpening video with Spyderco medium benchstone.
This video is really long and will be really boring for many of you.
If you want to put your Spyderco medium sharpening stone to good and suitable job - place it at the end of your sharpening session, for refining already created by coarser stone edge or like I intend to use mine - for creating micro bevels.
About the stone:
- aluminium oxide;
- very hard;
- absorb minimal amounts of water (almost none);
- does not need to be saturated, or soaked in water;
- does not require oil;
- I use it with water because of my sharpening habits;
- loads up quickly;
- cleaning is something that I will discover how to in the future;
- gives minimal tactile feedback but the audio feedback is little better;
- good consistent quality of the stone without blemishes, cracks, nicely chamfered edges;
- really good packaging and storage box;
- for the price 40-50$ depending the retailer could be more flat - from forum discussions and youtube comments I can make assumption that often comes out of flatt bowed at one side and concave at the other - I presume due to the manufacturing methods. Mine was 0.1-0.2 mm or 0.04-0.08 inches out of flat;
- good dimensions and thickness;
- around 15 microns which is comparable to 1 200 - 1 500 grit japanese wet stone;
Thanks for watching and have a nice day.
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The stone is good for very specific use, as discussed, and in addition to (or as a consequence of) slow cutting, burr removal is tedious.
Your English is very good; you have a noticeable, and charming, accent, but your grammar and especially vocabulary are both excellent. Thank you for the content you provide.
So strong accent that is hard to me understanding what he says
Good video. They are nice finishing stones. Almost nice enough to make up for how quick the darn things load.
In my experience, it will cut more aggressively if the stone is used dry. Take a large eraser and frequently clean up stone with it (use barkeepers friend for actual cleaning).
I've used mine to follow a fine DMT stone ,but I use it to clean up the polish and then to add a micro bevel in ,then I use the fine and ultra-fine to polish the flats and at the last I refine the micro bevel and strop on flax linen and plain leather .
A handy stone but it is use specific I do agree.
I clean mine with a sand rubber dry,or use bar keepers friend wet in a paste to clean it up.
Cheers Stefan!
Great video .
I carry a double stuff model of theirs.
One side medium ,one fine.
That and a 300 to 500 grit diamond stone will keep my pocket blades and hunting knives going in the field or out on a job.
But I rely on the diamond plate to thin ,and shape the geometry I need or want,then I polish the flats and micro bevel down.
Always learn something from your videos, thanks for sharing with us.
English: Good. Sharpening: Good. Using Grey Stone for initial sharpening: Not the best idea haha. Good job, and thank you for making a full length video on something people gloss over. I have the sharpmaker and would never take a dull knife to the grey stone. I will get some congress tools moldmasters for that
I like my spyderco benchstones but they definitely dont work well for setting a new bevel they dont remove metal fast enough. I use them as the middle stone in my progression.
Thanks for the demo. I would expect much faster cutting on circa #1000 grit. Had been considering this stone but your video has saved me $60. Thanks :)
Your English is good and easily comprehended. Your accent adds credibility (for no good reason but it does) :)
With ceramic stones you will take more time but less maintenance. Do not need water, but cleaning the surface of the ceramic with a rubber and then cleansing powder like bar keepers and a sponge.
I have a few Spyderco Medium 204M Triangle Rods, and a 701M Medium Profile Rod, and I find them very useful as a stone for microbevels, or for a bridging grit before a finer grit.
Spyderco medium is a good finisher. They are also way easier to lap than the fine. Great video Stephan!
@Michael Shults , hi.
Would you recommend using the Medium, then the fine and finishing off with the ultra fine. Is there anything wrong with using them in succession?
@@Resolute900 Yes you can use them however you want. Depends on the type of edge you're desiring and what the purpose of cutting etc..
@@michaelshults7675 I'm quite new to all of this. I guess my question is, can these be the only set of stones one uses, bar a strop , and get the same or similar results in looks as well as in efficiency?
@@Resolute900 Oh no, you can get decent results with a combination Norton coarse/fine India oilstone, and a strop with white or green compound to make it keener. You don't have to have expensive stones, if you have the ability to put on a edge you can do it on a budget. If you don't know how to freehand, just keep at it and you will develop the skills, just practice practice and more practice.
Good information as always!!!
If I can recall. Cliff recommends 1000grit slurry stone and then create a microbevel on spyderco medium ceramic
I have used my Spyderco dry and like the overall quality
I did not care for the coarse and medium Spyderco Stones. I love the fine and ultra fine. You have to bevel the edges and that is serious work.
spyderco makes a course stone?
West Coast Warriors Archive My bad the coarse is not Spyderco. I bought these in 2014. The coarse is KME they claim 800 grit.
Fredrick Rourk
I bevel the edges of ceramic and natural stones when needed with DMT Diamond plates, also you use them to can lap for flatness, and also to surface prep or pre condition a sharpening stone to cut/polish how you prefer it to cut/polish, the work of wet beveling is not bad and all and fairly quick, but flat surface lapping can definitely be tedious.
I sold both of my Spyderco stones the medium and the fine. They don't cut fast enough for me and are not flat upon arrival. The feedback isn't good IMHO and they load up very fast and require constant cleaning. I much prefer water stones and I can put a microbevel on one of my harder waterstones, so that's why I sold the Spydercos.
Nice work!
I must disagree with You on dimensions. Spyderco does not maintain standard dimension (Naniwa, Shapton, ...); it is only 5 ctms wide and it feels tiny compated with the other ones. Besides my Medium and Fine do not have the same measuremens. One is a little bigger than the other. Both are not perfectly flat. Otherwise it is a very good first stage stone.
JRCLAD I am used to European 6x2x1 inch stones and everything above is better for me...
I have £100 to spend on sharpening stones what would you recommend i currently have chosera 400 800 and 3000 a kitayama 8000 and an atoma 140 what stones would you add to this? Been looking at the spyderco stones and arkansas stones
I sold my Spyderco stones because they load quickly and have bad feedback. I guess if want to spend $50. on a stone for doing a micro bevel, have at it. I prefer to use my 8,000 grit J water stone or even my old Arkansas Black stone for this purpose.
Amen to that.
I haven't used this stone but it looks like it behaves a lot like a black Arkansas except my Arkanstone has superb tactile feedback. Does that sound right?
My black (which is more leke true hard grade according to dan's and not as fine as their surgical black ones ) gives better/finer edge than a medium stone by spyderco. Speaking about tactile feedback in hard stones is a little bit tricky but audible feedback is there
Will this stone ever dish? Will it need flattening?
Little bit late but i will comment. I have the medium and the UF. The medium wasn't flat. I flattened one side with an electric, turning, diamond plate. It needed LONG time. I guess with knives, you won't have to flatten it ever...
I was thinking, if you try scrubbing passes it might go faster.
I think you would have much better results by sharpening only one side until you get a burr. Then turn the knife over and sharpen until you get burr on other side of knife edge. Once you do that, you are done "sharpening" the knife. Then you can go to alternating strokes to remove the burr. Your sharpening will go much faster this way.
You had the DC3/4 from falkniven right? Isn't the ceramic side there basically the same?
If I remember correctly the Fallkniven's ceramic (at least the one they use for 6/8 years now) cuts faster than Spyderco medium one.
The Fällkniven ceramic is faster cutting and more friable than the Spyderco; my guess is that although the abrasives might be similar, the bonding material and the process used to create it is not the same.
M00nsplitter the old (before 6/8 years) ceramic that fallkniven used was more similar to the Spyderco medium. It was distinct brownish color. The current version is more of a dark grey with coarser feel to it.
Stefan Wolf Maybe I have an old DC4. I also have a less brown, more gray, stone from ebay that they call "boron carbide". The ebay stone is also non-releasing, fully sintered.
I have a DC3, DC4 and DC521. I can't recall when I purchases them, but the ceramic sides are noticeably more grainy than the Spyderco, and charcoal coloured. The diamond sides are distinguished by poor bonding of the diamonds to the substrate.
ya really cant take off much metal with the spyderco medium. id say its close to most 6k waterstones as far as speed goes.
shonuffisthemaster medium is 15 micron around 1200 grit..
fine is 6 micron around 2500 grit
and ultra fine is 3 micron around 4000 grit
That stone cuts very slow, and is finer than usually reported (600-1000 JIS). Try fast sweeping strokes like Cliff Stamp uses: czcams.com/video/OPGGo3W15HQ/video.html . Or Japanese style scrubbing strokes : czcams.com/video/JCYI7lk3eKY/video.htmlm11s . Also try using dish soap and water, oil, or one part oil, one part dish soap and four parts water to keep the stone from loading and keep it cutting. (edited for spelling)
I saw a CZcams video that Sharped a dull to hair shave in 90 seconds.. I feel like maybe your technique might need perfected
have you ever sharpened a knife on ceramic? you sound like a moron
@@chrisolenick953 check out outdoors55, he did it in 90 seconds. Though I dont know if he did it on a spyderco stone (too lazy to watch that video again now) and he already had an edge. He just dulled it on purpose and did not had to do a complete reprofile.