Quick note: Whenever you shave down your nozzle, ALWAYS TAPER THE FRONT. If you do not taper the front, there will be lots of fps and airseal issues between the hop up rubber and nozzle. So put the nozzle on a drill and use sandpaper to create a rounded taper on the front of the nozzle
Před 3 lety+4
While this is generally true and advisable, I've been using the same un-tapered (or very minimal) G&P nozzle in one of my guns for ten years now, and it's never given me any problems. When in doubt, TEST.
@@KoujiRenamon i put the nozzle on a drill and then use some sandpaper like a makeshift lathe. round it off little by little until the nozzle is tapered enough to be making good contact with the bucking. Do not over taper or else you would make the airseal even worse. Test by inserting the nozzle into the bucking lips by like 1mm and see how well the lips wrap around the nozzle (no innuendo intended)
Just started becoming a tech and found this problem with a SCR M4, i changed the nozzle but did not measure and found the feed issue but great tip now i know ! great video
Great video. Like he said, if this doesn't work then there might be other problems causing feeding issues. Most common is when installing a new bucking(whether it be with a new barrel and hopup unit or not) and the bucking is in too deep or shallow. Test it by seeing how easily a bb can be pushed through the bucking. Similarly when installing a R hop. Many patches came out perfectly but after installing everyting into the hopup unit I noticed that the bb catches on the patch. Mostly due to the bucking or hopup arm.
Thank you for your contribution for newbies like me, keeping it simple to understand. I have bren watching all your guides and vids all day About all AEG parts. Best regard in 2023
I have a really old mp5 sd from classic army. Finally followed a bunch of your videos to fix it up and the gearbox and cylinder run perfectly but it still seemed like it was having leak issues. I guess I will have to trouble shoot the nozzle and try some different sized. I’m thinking it’s too small. I have really low FPS.
So I have been teching for a while and learned most my skills from you, I rebuilt my buddy's gun. G&G C7A1 (converted by previous owner to A2) that comes with lonex internals from the factory. He got it for cheap because it wasn't feeding correctly and had horrible FPS. So I cleaned, re greased, corrected AOE (was pretty good from lonex), shimmed gears (horrible bound up shim job from lonex), swapped in an SHS lightened piston, new bucking and nub. Fed OK at first then back to miss feeding lots, but also had significant fps drop. Air nozzle was worn out on the inside (polymer) so I got a new aluminum o ring nozzle, glued it to the tappet and back together. Fps was good and miss feeding went down. I measured the OEM lonex nozzle and the new one, exact same length. Still misfeeding. So I shimmed the tappet with a piece of electrical tape, helped some but not a lot. Kind of getting stumped on this one, hopup is lonex and isn't damaged and the o ring on the hopup is good. Nozzle spring is good (replaced), and the nozzle is OEM length. Could this be a tappet plate problem? Being this gun is older and seems the previous owner didn't take care of it, I'm thinking the tappet plate is worn out. I'm going to swap in a new one once I get it here from evike (living in Canada and ordering guns takes a while). If anyone else has any suggestions please let me know
i also have some problem and took me years to solve. basically here it is: 1.) bucking lips too tight inside the chamber. could be due to thicker, harder bucking, or disfigured chamber. test it by putting one BB, and push it with something. if it hard, thats definately the issues. change the bucking into softer one, or file the inside of the chamber, or sand the bucking lips with very fine sandpaper 2.) not enough tappet spring power to push the BB into the chamber. this may due to week spring or too much upward tension of BB by mag spring. the fix is by strengthening the tappet spring by cutting it 2-3 coils. but dont make it too harder or tappet will break. or reduce the strain from BB from mag by filling it not too full (midcap) or dont wind it until too hard (hicap) 3.) nozzle diameter too small and create too much play inside the chamber. if the nozzle to much play, it will misalign when being pushed by BB from mag and create issues such as misfed, doublefed, or fps loss. use the matched size nozzle for your chamber or shim the chamber internal by using thin sheet metal + power glue 4.) nozzle too tight also will create a lot of issues as mentioned above. fix by the opposite as mentioned above. basically, thats all the problem that for me become misteries for past 8 years. i always focus and gearbox and compression part, but never realize that nozzle, bucking, chamber ( and receiver) is as imortant as the gearbox set
@@ebehdzikraa3855 I was having double feed issues with the maxx nozzle (21.4), so I went back to the stock CM16 nozzle (21.34) and the issue was gone, but yeah, I could kinda solve by not filling too much my midcaps, but I never had problems with the stock nozzle even full filing my mids, because it sits tight enough and doesn't have any wobble (unlike maxx nozzle), the only problem now is that it doesn't have a o-ring, so I lost a couple joules. Now I bought a VFC polymer air seal nozzle to see if seals nice without causing me midcap syndrome (umbrella armory guys uses it a lot so I'll give it a shot)
Hi 👋 great video thank you for sharing! I have a vector and I changed the nozzle out and started having issues. Replaced the old one now my fps is way lower 😂
thanks a lot for all the cool tutorials. I have a question: You just covered nozzle length in relation to feeding issues. I just bought a MAXX adjustable nozzle how do i figure out how deep i want it to go inside the bucking to get the best air seal? adjust nozzle and test shoot for fps constancy ?
do it manually by pushing the fully assembled chamber to fully assembled gearbox and blow it with your mouth. if it no leak, thats a correct mating between nozzle and bucking. but be careful, good mating frequently will result in misfeed due to the nozzle was not moved backward enough. my solution of this is by make sure the backward movement is enough to clear the BB first, then filling the front part of the tappet plate (and also camming leaf on the back, at the sector gear axis during full forward position). this will make the nozzle move more forward without sacrificing backward movement. but dont file it too much since it could make the tappet become flimpsy and ruining it
Bit of trivia about ICS M4s (I've been teching them exclusively since 2005), they have some parts commonality with MP5 parts e.g. the geometry of an ICS M4 safety/trigger blocker is more in keeping with that of third party MP5 safety. I have found no difference in air seal quality in an upper built using an MP5 nozzle and a seperate upper with same spring using a Guarder M4 nozzle. I suspect this was done because ICS were one of the few 'full metal' competitors back in the early 2000s for M4/M16 and MP5 products and homogenising these plastic parts cuts down on the amount of different parts needed to complete guns.
@@WazheadBoci it depends on which generation of ICS gun you're working on. One really weird thing I found with the forward assist spring release series was that I discovered a recurring fault in a high speed set up (DSG 10.1 gears, was running about 46rps at 310fps set for .25s, single stroke wanker gun basically)...the fault was that the anti reversal extension would shear off the part that would be acted upon by the forward assist. Dremelling a little material from the lower gearbox case and the upper gearbox case and shaving about 2mm off the back of the tappet plate so there was no way any of these things could contact the ARL arm over the entire distance it could theoretically travel and it never happened again. ICS guns have pretty poor AoE when you change the sector gear and piston - stock ICS pistons appear to marginally longer than TM spec so it's probably easier to think of an ICS M4 gearbox upper as having all its guts a little further forward in relation to the sector gear axle axis. Very small difference I had no end of problems seeing very aggressive piston wear within only a few thousand rounds with TM, Deepfire and Guarder polyacetal pistons with the same piston head without AoE correction. Most guns need 0-3mm adjustment, ICS M4s it's closer to 4-5mm. That's significant and I believe contributed to their early rep for not being easy to upgrade. The material they use for the stock 'nub' in the hop is garbage, the actual sleeve they put on the barrel is adequate (for UK power levels). Because their lower receivers are longer than normal behind the pistol grip this can be an issue for some brands after market grip with an extended beavertail design where an extension of the grip would ride over the web of your thumb. Receiver threading can be a bit of a PITA for aftermarket barrel nuts (wire brush and anti seize are your friend). Plastic hop unit 'wings' that slot into the outer barrel are top fat (tall) for the slots in G&P barrels so you're either dremelling/filing the barrel or the hop which has a risk of nozzle/hop unit misalignment if you get it wrong (measure twice, cut once). A wobbly stock ICS outer barrel (they're technically 3 piece between a hop housing base, mid barrel and then an extension that the foresight attaches to that can be adjusted in length slightly) can be remedied by drilling the pins and screws out and threadlocking grub screws in place, think I've used very short M4 grub/hex screws in the past. That was more around exploring how to make the gun more accurate and obviously you want everything in the upper part of the gun to be as locked together/rigid as possible.
Mate you have andwered the problem ive bern having i have a well m401 with some mods and for the life of me it wont shoit bbs and now i know how to check exactly wat nozzel i need ill try my m4 one i just got i was trying to get it to workk wuth a g36 nozzel
Mate you are the GURU 👍IM IN AUSTRALIA WHERE THEY ARE BANNED BUT I HAVE A WELLS M401 CONVERTED WITH ORIGINAL PORTED CYLINDER STANDARD SPRING AND WITH .12NBS DOES 400 PLUS ALL DAY WITH EASE OH AND I HAD A PERUN V2 I THREW IN AND AN E&C HOP UP AND BARREL BUT IM STILL LEARNING and this video answered some questions i needed answering so thx and with a 100% cylinder wats the maximum barrel length and inner diam for max fps and also sniper rifle a L96 whats best spring sixmze and barrel length for max fps
Thank you might of just solved my feeding problem on my krytac trident crb mk1. It feeds but rapid fire and full auto get alot of misfeeds. Have tried many different brands of midcaps without any luck
what about the nozzle meshing with the hop rubber? or i guess should the rubber be flush with the hop up chamber? it seems the purple nozzle stops just short of making contact with the hop rubber.
Looks like the airseal doesn't concern him although in this case you would want to assemble your gearbox without gears, spring and spring guide with piston placed in the rear position, then put gearbox and barrel\hop-up assembly into the build as much close to the fully assembled gun as possible with only exception being having a window to put a long rod and push the piston forward while keeping the muzzle of the inner barrel sealed with your finger, if the airseal in the cylinder and between nozzle and hop-up rubber is good - you won't be able to push the piston all the way forward, if there will be a hissing sound and a slow air leak - an extra 0.2-0.4mm of nozzle, more blunt shape of the nozzle front end or the hop-up rubber with thicker lips might help out, if there is no airseal whatsoever the gap between nozzle and rubber is major, you will even probably see the light from the feeding valve of the hop unit if you will point a flashlight into the inner barrel
@@lukeskywalker9438 If you only achieve airseal when nozzle doesn't go back far enough to let the bb in the chamber you need a nozzle with more blunt shape of the front or a rubber with thicker lips
You don't. Best tip I can offer is to basically put the gearbox together but without the cylinder, piston or pistonhead, so you can reach the tappet plate from where the cylinder usually sits, and then hold your hop-up unit against the gearbox.
Listen I have a stock tippman commando, ive been struggling i just want to upgrade the nozzle, the shs m4 nozzle is barrower and wobbles causing crappy accuracy. What nozzle will fit the stock hop up? I guess the issue is i need a shs compatible hop up diameter i guess in order to fit. Thanks in advance love your vids.
Is the problem created by the bucking/hopup or the actual gearbox/nozzle? I have a Retro Arms gb/nozzle, and will be putting it in a G&P body (EMG SAI GRY), with stock hopup and barrel. has anyone had a similar setup?
Coud be same issue with open hop up setup?? becose when I shoot normali nothing is bed and the gun is perfick bat if a loud magazines bit fuller it starts double feed until the bbs go down a bit lik 90 in a magazine (it is lodging magazine)
Do you think .30mm can make a difference with feeding issues? The reason why I ask is because my G&p nozzle is 21.09mm I have changed it for a 21.40mm nozzle and now seem to have feeding issues.
good day ive got a aps asr114 spyder and looking to fit a maxx hopp up unit ,will i have to change the air nozzle or will the maxx hopp up be a direct fit??
Hello! Love watching your videos. Let us know if you’re on Patreon or another way we can contribute. You noted you have an SHS AK Long nozzle in your ICS, so I went ahead and got one. Oddly enough FPS dropped by around 10fps. I switched back and forth between the ICS stock one, being super carefull, to eliminate that I was messing up, but it was consistently 10fps under. Any ideas? I was surprised that the ICS stock plastic one, which doesn’t appear to have an o-ring, outperformed the SHS one. Also, maybe related, I noticed the ICS nozzle has a + (plus) profile at the business end, any idea why they did this? (Rifle is ICS CXP-MARS DMR)
I have an M4 which was a split hopup unit type. I made some tiny modifications and put a non-split hopup unit in. I had a feeding issue and was very confused because when I bumped it while upside down it would fire 1 round. But after a lot of testing I realized my feeding issue came from nozzle length. I shaved down the length of my nozzle and fixed the issue. However I didn't do a good enough job getting it straight or I shaved too much. Ending up with significant drop in fps and terrible accuracy. But feeding issue was fixed. Will order a 19.5mm nozzle and 20.7mm since stock m4 was 21.5. I believe the 20.7 will fix it if not 19.5 definitely will.
Have you fixed this? How did you shave it? I have same problem with a split hop up sr25, im planing to sand the tip of the nozle off bit by bit test it after each 6 sanding strokes prety much
@@epicmexican7153 I'm waiting for the replacement nozzle still, I live in Belize shippin takes a long time here... check out this video skip to 3:42 to save time czcams.com/video/8A17Ij8kxsU/video.html
@@epicmexican7153 Also although Ive seen a few guides of people shaving/cutting their nozzles I've yet to see a diy method that gets it smooth enough for me to fully trust the nozzle wont somehow create inaccuracies...
I'm newbie and wonder if the length of nozzle has any affect on accuracy or fps? Assume i have to use a very long nozzle like 50mm or more, can i improve fps and accuracy by just changing cylinder volume or barrel?
Hey I’m new and still learning the basics,how are you engaging the nozzle into the hop-up? I understand or think I do that you are pulling the gearbox out and making it fit in the upper receiver. Correct? And then? Appreciate any help from anyone viewing message. Love your channel 63 and getting into the hobby with my kid and grandkids
Nozzle sits on the tappet plate inside the gearbox. You have to open it to replace them. But the nozzle sticks out of the front of the box. It then connects to the back of the hop up.
So I’m having feeding issues on my kriss changed bucking and hop up bucking, got a new mag, still issues is it the air nozzle? It’s the oem and the only problem could be it’s old?
What do you do if your hop chamber set fully forward against receiver feeds but has poor airseal. Vs. hop chamber pressed rearward against gearbox will not feed? All my Hop Chambers (Maxx, Prowin, promy, TM) all exhibit play forward/ rearward. Too forward = very poor airseal, too rearward = no feeding bbs. I can’t find a sweet spot but also I think there shouldn’t be any hop up chamber play. Using Retro Arms split shell in Hurricane Metal body. Nozzle slightly longer than M4 won’t feed no matter where hop chamber is.
Try putting a thin rubber o-ring on the rear of your hopup chamber. The part tat goes into the front of the gearbox shell. that wee bit of spacing is sometimes all that is needed. You can get several different thicknesses of o-rings to try out.
often i ask myself what ist the korrekt Feeding position from Nozzle to Hopup there are no vids at all about this ,only your vid provides a small look.Thanks
I have the same set up (Maxx hop up and SHS nozzle), did filing down the nozzle completely solved your feeding issue? (For me different mags have different issues. Some do not feed at all, some get the bb jammed half way and on the second shot it shoots (every other trigger pull it actually shoots the bb)). I am wondering if filing down the nozzle, or removing some of the hop up springs will resolve problems. One thing to point out is that when I hold the mag at certain position/angle, feeding issues disappear. Please let me know what you have done to solve your issue. Thanks 🙏
Thanks for the tip ! Since you glue the nozzle to the tappet, it might be a good idea to do this test before and after gluing the nozzle or it doesn't matter ?
@@Zeryth960 Ryan seems to do it, reason being that the nozzle might not be seating on the tappet plate without moving slightly, which can lead to fps consistency issues IIRC
@@Zeryth960 I glue it on every gun I work on, there is lots of different gap sizes in nozzles for the part that seats it to the tappet, and lots of different sized ridges on tappet plates. This mitigates those variations
K.t, g.p, c.a some a&k valken all have shorter nozzles. Infact your red ( assumed shs) nozzle was shorter then both of my shs and longer then my r.a but same length as my zci.
Marinus de Dreu the problem is I piled up the front end in a shattered the original. Totally my fault accidentally hit the trigger doing a spring swap to make the fields limits. Made a hell of a mess..... rookie mistake 🙄
Great video on a current topic that is an issue for me with an UMAREX HK416. I installed a gate titan, and the nozel position is not consistent shot to shot. Meaning that sometimes the nozel is further back at the moment of fire, and sometimes it is closer to the forward position. Think it has something to do with the pre-cocking and active braking. Any ideas?!
That should not be the case since the tappet plate is released by the sector cam at always the same moment relatively to the release of the piston. This is a problem with your timing and other parts, not the gate.
I ran into similar before and corrected by adding a sector delay to the gear. Gives a little more time for the bbs to feed if it’s a feed problem. Or check to make sure your tappet plate is moving free, it’s pretty easy to misalign them on some gear boxes. Another spot is your piston seal.... lots of spots to look at....
Also, look at the tappet plate return spring. If its worn out and not very stiff, then the return of the nozzle might be different from shot to shot. Also check to make sure that there is nothing blocking the tappet plate from returning fully to the forward position.
You could try taking out the piston and spring (maybe the ARL too). Then slide the gearbox into the upper and cycle the gears with something through the pinion hole
If the muzzle of your inner barrel extends beyond the outer barrel and if you know the piston is fully forward, just blow down the muzzle end. You'll be trying to push air against what is hopefully a seal between hop rubber/nozzle and the piston head sealing against the cylinder head outlet. And because some people on the net are complete maroons...mags and battery out of gun before doing this.
I've just purchased a hop unit for my g&g and the air nozzle is to fat to fit in the hop unit can't even test the length isnthis a common problem or a faulty hop unit
I don't know why there has to be varying lengths. for instance, Ak pattern guns have 2 lengths. and m4's have 50 of them. and also theres a case of o no mp5 nozzles are sold out guess ill have to get a maxx nozzle.
Can you please help me with this issue, i don't know what to do: i have this problem: I just upgraded 2 AEGs, one CM.098 and one CM.007 CM.098: Maxx Model Pro Map Leaf 70° super macaron ZCI 499mm 6.02 SS Barrel CM.007 Maxx Model Pro Map Leaf 60° super macaron Map Leaf 370mm 6.02 SS Barrel in the CM.098 i kept the stock nozzle although i knew that MAXX model works on 21-21.25mm nozzles, the stock nozzle is huge, like 24+mm and as a result i can see it when i look through the feeding hole, BUT, it works perfectly fine, it just works, is this weird or not? should i leave it this way? in the CM.007 the nozzle is shorter, i can barely see it through the feeding hole BUT i have a lot of dry shots... i installed the cm.007 parts (hopup, barrel and rubber) in the cm.098 to test it, and works perfectly fine, then i thought about the mags, i tried the stock hi cap mag in the M4 and works perfectly fine, no dry shots at all, as soon as i go back to the Battle Axe mid caps the dry shots start again.
I know it's a year old but my sr25 the matrix one has this issue, it double feeds and only shoots 10-20 feet, after the right nozzle it's shooting way more.
This didn't tell us how to find the right nozzle. Just tells us you need the right one. This isn't all that helpful. Having the nozzle go back far enough is just one of the factors. Also, you can only test this in the way you did with an ics split box. The air nozzle fitment is so important, and you have the least control over it. Just looking for answers
Sooo thats doesnt True. Proper lenght of nozzle in ics gb is 21mm with stock unit. There is problem if you change the hopup unit, than you need to check the lenght. If you have shorter nozzle, the BB trajectory is bad.
more like nine minute tech tips ok but seriously I have a CA VSS and the stock airnozzle is poopy, so i got one that's 0.5mm longer than the original. Will I have to shave that down? its a specialized v3 gearbox there was no 19mm airnozzle on evike but then again i didn't search too hard
@@marinusdedreu3833 Turns out they are the same exact size, i didn't use very a precise measurement device. Finally got everything shimmed and closed up, hopefully it works
This tutorial is just wrong. Just by looking at the short nozzle you can tell the air seal is going to be terrible. You can literally see a small gap. It's supposed to kiss the hopup rubber.
Perfect... I have had lots of questions about tappet, nozzle, and bucking working together. This for sure answered some of them. Thanks
Quick note: Whenever you shave down your nozzle, ALWAYS TAPER THE FRONT. If you do not taper the front, there will be lots of fps and airseal issues between the hop up rubber and nozzle. So put the nozzle on a drill and use sandpaper to create a rounded taper on the front of the nozzle
While this is generally true and advisable, I've been using the same un-tapered (or very minimal) G&P nozzle in one of my guns for ten years now, and it's never given me any problems. When in doubt, TEST.
So like question, what is the recommended method to shaving down a nozzle? What tools should I be using to shorten and taper?
@@KoujiRenamon i put the nozzle on a drill and then use some sandpaper like a makeshift lathe. round it off little by little until the nozzle is tapered enough to be making good contact with the bucking. Do not over taper or else you would make the airseal even worse. Test by inserting the nozzle into the bucking lips by like 1mm and see how well the lips wrap around the nozzle (no innuendo intended)
be careful when tapering. overdoing it will also make the nozzle failed to mate with bucking lips and will drop the fps
@@n8taing61230° or 45° angle?
5 minute tech tip. *watches 9 minutes* absolute madlad
Just started becoming a tech and found this problem with a SCR M4, i changed the nozzle but did not measure and found the feed issue but great tip now i know ! great video
Your vids are great. I have learned a lot from you in a short amount of time. Thank you kind sir.
I used one of your older videos and got the AK nozzle for my ICS, and yeah it worked great.
Same here
I appreciate you content! Gives me great insight on what to expect when opening a gearbox
Great video. Like he said, if this doesn't work then there might be other problems causing feeding issues. Most common is when installing a new bucking(whether it be with a new barrel and hopup unit or not) and the bucking is in too deep or shallow. Test it by seeing how easily a bb can be pushed through the bucking. Similarly when installing a R hop. Many patches came out perfectly but after installing everyting into the hopup unit I noticed that the bb catches on the patch. Mostly due to the bucking or hopup arm.
Thank you for your contribution for newbies like me, keeping it simple to understand. I have bren watching all your guides and vids all day About all AEG parts.
Best regard in 2023
Really appreciate this, thanks a lot!
A maxx model 22.50mm for an a&k Sr25 v2.5 ‘elongated’ gb worked perfectly.
thank you so much. really appreciated
you make amazing vids
Great vid thank you.
I have a really old mp5 sd from classic army. Finally followed a bunch of your videos to fix it up and the gearbox and cylinder run perfectly but it still seemed like it was having leak issues. I guess I will have to trouble shoot the nozzle and try some different sized. I’m thinking it’s too small. I have really low FPS.
So I have been teching for a while and learned most my skills from you, I rebuilt my buddy's gun. G&G C7A1 (converted by previous owner to A2) that comes with lonex internals from the factory. He got it for cheap because it wasn't feeding correctly and had horrible FPS. So I cleaned, re greased, corrected AOE (was pretty good from lonex), shimmed gears (horrible bound up shim job from lonex), swapped in an SHS lightened piston, new bucking and nub. Fed OK at first then back to miss feeding lots, but also had significant fps drop. Air nozzle was worn out on the inside (polymer) so I got a new aluminum o ring nozzle, glued it to the tappet and back together. Fps was good and miss feeding went down. I measured the OEM lonex nozzle and the new one, exact same length. Still misfeeding. So I shimmed the tappet with a piece of electrical tape, helped some but not a lot.
Kind of getting stumped on this one, hopup is lonex and isn't damaged and the o ring on the hopup is good. Nozzle spring is good (replaced), and the nozzle is OEM length. Could this be a tappet plate problem? Being this gun is older and seems the previous owner didn't take care of it, I'm thinking the tappet plate is worn out. I'm going to swap in a new one once I get it here from evike (living in Canada and ordering guns takes a while).
If anyone else has any suggestions please let me know
Most likely tappet plate, they do wear down where they contact with the sector gear
Check also the magazine you are using.
i also have some problem and took me years to solve. basically here it is:
1.) bucking lips too tight inside the chamber. could be due to thicker, harder bucking, or disfigured chamber. test it by putting one BB, and push it with something. if it hard, thats definately the issues. change the bucking into softer one, or file the inside of the chamber, or sand the bucking lips with very fine sandpaper
2.) not enough tappet spring power to push the BB into the chamber. this may due to week spring or too much upward tension of BB by mag spring. the fix is by strengthening the tappet spring by cutting it 2-3 coils. but dont make it too harder or tappet will break. or reduce the strain from BB from mag by filling it not too full (midcap) or dont wind it until too hard (hicap)
3.) nozzle diameter too small and create too much play inside the chamber. if the nozzle to much play, it will misalign when being pushed by BB from mag and create issues such as misfed, doublefed, or fps loss. use the matched size nozzle for your chamber or shim the chamber internal by using thin sheet metal + power glue
4.) nozzle too tight also will create a lot of issues as mentioned above. fix by the opposite as mentioned above.
basically, thats all the problem that for me become misteries for past 8 years. i always focus and gearbox and compression part, but never realize that nozzle, bucking, chamber ( and receiver) is as imortant as the gearbox set
@@ebehdzikraa3855 I was having double feed issues with the maxx nozzle (21.4), so I went back to the stock CM16 nozzle (21.34) and the issue was gone, but yeah, I could kinda solve by not filling too much my midcaps, but I never had problems with the stock nozzle even full filing my mids, because it sits tight enough and doesn't have any wobble (unlike maxx nozzle), the only problem now is that it doesn't have a o-ring, so I lost a couple joules. Now I bought a VFC polymer air seal nozzle to see if seals nice without causing me midcap syndrome (umbrella armory guys uses it a lot so I'll give it a shot)
Хорошо все объяснил!
Usefull tip, thank you 🙂
I tried so many different nozzles in my DSG. modify, maxx, SHA red M4. Looks like v3 SHS purple AK it is
Hi 👋 great video thank you for sharing! I have a vector and I changed the nozzle out and started having issues. Replaced the old one now my fps is way lower 😂
I love the content!
Mad props for placing the artist link for credits!
thanks a lot for all the cool tutorials.
I have a question: You just covered nozzle length in relation to feeding issues. I just bought a MAXX adjustable nozzle how do i figure out how deep i want it to go inside the bucking to get the best air seal? adjust nozzle and test shoot for fps constancy ?
Also in this boat
do it manually by pushing the fully assembled chamber to fully assembled gearbox and blow it with your mouth. if it no leak, thats a correct mating between nozzle and bucking.
but be careful, good mating frequently will result in misfeed due to the nozzle was not moved backward enough.
my solution of this is by make sure the backward movement is enough to clear the BB first, then filling the front part of the tappet plate (and also camming leaf on the back, at the sector gear axis during full forward position). this will make the nozzle move more forward without sacrificing backward movement. but dont file it too much since it could make the tappet become flimpsy and ruining it
Bit of trivia about ICS M4s (I've been teching them exclusively since 2005), they have some parts commonality with MP5 parts e.g. the geometry of an ICS M4 safety/trigger blocker is more in keeping with that of third party MP5 safety. I have found no difference in air seal quality in an upper built using an MP5 nozzle and a seperate upper with same spring using a Guarder M4 nozzle.
I suspect this was done because ICS were one of the few 'full metal' competitors back in the early 2000s for M4/M16 and MP5 products and homogenising these plastic parts cuts down on the amount of different parts needed to complete guns.
Nice you must have a whole list of good to knows :)
@@WazheadBoci it depends on which generation of ICS gun you're working on.
One really weird thing I found with the forward assist spring release series was that I discovered a recurring fault in a high speed set up (DSG 10.1 gears, was running about 46rps at 310fps set for .25s, single stroke wanker gun basically)...the fault was that the anti reversal extension would shear off the part that would be acted upon by the forward assist.
Dremelling a little material from the lower gearbox case and the upper gearbox case and shaving about 2mm off the back of the tappet plate so there was no way any of these things could contact the ARL arm over the entire distance it could theoretically travel and it never happened again.
ICS guns have pretty poor AoE when you change the sector gear and piston - stock ICS pistons appear to marginally longer than TM spec so it's probably easier to think of an ICS M4 gearbox upper as having all its guts a little further forward in relation to the sector gear axle axis. Very small difference I had no end of problems seeing very aggressive piston wear within only a few thousand rounds with TM, Deepfire and Guarder polyacetal pistons with the same piston head without AoE correction. Most guns need 0-3mm adjustment, ICS M4s it's closer to 4-5mm. That's significant and I believe contributed to their early rep for not being easy to upgrade.
The material they use for the stock 'nub' in the hop is garbage, the actual sleeve they put on the barrel is adequate (for UK power levels).
Because their lower receivers are longer than normal behind the pistol grip this can be an issue for some brands after market grip with an extended beavertail design where an extension of the grip would ride over the web of your thumb.
Receiver threading can be a bit of a PITA for aftermarket barrel nuts (wire brush and anti seize are your friend). Plastic hop unit 'wings' that slot into the outer barrel are top fat (tall) for the slots in G&P barrels so you're either dremelling/filing the barrel or the hop which has a risk of nozzle/hop unit misalignment if you get it wrong (measure twice, cut once).
A wobbly stock ICS outer barrel (they're technically 3 piece between a hop housing base, mid barrel and then an extension that the foresight attaches to that can be adjusted in length slightly) can be remedied by drilling the pins and screws out and threadlocking grub screws in place, think I've used very short M4 grub/hex screws in the past. That was more around exploring how to make the gun more accurate and obviously you want everything in the upper part of the gun to be as locked together/rigid as possible.
Mate you have andwered the problem ive bern having i have a well m401 with some mods and for the life of me it wont shoit bbs and now i know how to check exactly wat nozzel i need ill try my m4 one i just got i was trying to get it to workk wuth a g36 nozzel
Mate you are the GURU 👍IM IN AUSTRALIA WHERE THEY ARE BANNED BUT I HAVE A WELLS M401 CONVERTED WITH ORIGINAL PORTED CYLINDER STANDARD SPRING AND WITH .12NBS DOES 400 PLUS ALL DAY WITH EASE OH AND I HAD A PERUN V2 I THREW IN AND AN E&C HOP UP AND BARREL BUT IM STILL LEARNING and this video answered some questions i needed answering so thx and with a 100% cylinder wats the maximum barrel length and inner diam for max fps and also sniper rifle a L96 whats best spring sixmze and barrel length for max fps
thank you!
Thank you might of just solved my feeding problem on my krytac trident crb mk1. It feeds but rapid fire and full auto get alot of misfeeds. Have tried many different brands of midcaps without any luck
Can also be a tappet plate problem, have you changed the air nozzle?
Can also be a tappet plate problem, have you changed the air nozzle?
@@marinusdedreu3833 it's all stock.
what about the nozzle meshing with the hop rubber? or i guess should the rubber be flush with the hop up chamber? it seems the purple nozzle stops just short of making contact with the hop rubber.
Looks like the airseal doesn't concern him although in this case you would want to assemble your gearbox without gears, spring and spring guide with piston placed in the rear position, then put gearbox and barrel\hop-up assembly into the build as much close to the fully assembled gun as possible with only exception being having a window to put a long rod and push the piston forward while keeping the muzzle of the inner barrel sealed with your finger, if the airseal in the cylinder and between nozzle and hop-up rubber is good - you won't be able to push the piston all the way forward, if there will be a hissing sound and a slow air leak - an extra 0.2-0.4mm of nozzle, more blunt shape of the nozzle front end or the hop-up rubber with thicker lips might help out, if there is no airseal whatsoever the gap between nozzle and rubber is major, you will even probably see the light from the feeding valve of the hop unit if you will point a flashlight into the inner barrel
@@lauranceberiya1314 is there meant to be space for the BB?
@@lukeskywalker9438 If you only achieve airseal when nozzle doesn't go back far enough to let the bb in the chamber you need a nozzle with more blunt shape of the front or a rubber with thicker lips
Also how would you pull back on the tappet on a non-split gearbox?
You don't.
Best tip I can offer is to basically put the gearbox together but without the cylinder, piston or pistonhead, so you can reach the tappet plate from where the cylinder usually sits, and then hold your hop-up unit against the gearbox.
Question: How should the airseal nozzle seat to the hop up lip? should it fit inside or press into the lip?
To me, it's a must :)) Punching through the bucking hole is a must
Could u do a video about tapet plate ishues and timing and stuff
Listen I have a stock tippman commando, ive been struggling i just want to upgrade the nozzle, the shs m4 nozzle is barrower and wobbles causing crappy accuracy. What nozzle will fit the stock hop up? I guess the issue is i need a shs compatible hop up diameter i guess in order to fit. Thanks in advance love your vids.
I find that 20.75-21.25mm works best for krytacs depending on which hopup you are using
I am having feed issues. Can the SPR work with 20.75 with Maxx hop-up pro? Thank you
Changing the type of hop up would require to change the air nozzle? I’m changing from a traditional Tokyo Marui to a Maxx rotary type
Is the problem created by the bucking/hopup or the actual gearbox/nozzle? I have a Retro Arms gb/nozzle, and will be putting it in a G&P body (EMG SAI GRY), with stock hopup and barrel. has anyone had a similar setup?
Would the ace1arms AK short nozzle fit on lancer v2 gearbox?
Coud be same issue with open hop up setup?? becose when I shoot normali nothing is bed and the gun is perfick bat if a loud magazines bit fuller it starts double feed until the bbs go down a bit lik 90 in a magazine (it is lodging magazine)
Do you think .30mm can make a difference with feeding issues? The reason why I ask is because my G&p nozzle is 21.09mm I have changed it for a 21.40mm nozzle and now seem to have feeding issues.
good day ive got a aps asr114 spyder and looking to fit a maxx hopp up unit ,will i have to change the air nozzle or will the maxx hopp up be a direct fit??
Hello! Love watching your videos. Let us know if you’re on Patreon or another way we can contribute. You noted you have an SHS AK Long nozzle in your ICS, so I went ahead and got one. Oddly enough FPS dropped by around 10fps. I switched back and forth between the ICS stock one, being super carefull, to eliminate that I was messing up, but it was consistently 10fps under. Any ideas? I was surprised that the ICS stock plastic one, which doesn’t appear to have an o-ring, outperformed the SHS one. Also, maybe related, I noticed the ICS nozzle has a + (plus) profile at the business end, any idea why they did this? (Rifle is ICS CXP-MARS DMR)
sir this was 9 minutes and 40 seconds, *clearly* not five
so it was twice as good. excellent, concise info.
What would you recommend for a CM16 Combat machine?
I have an M4 which was a split hopup unit type. I made some tiny modifications and put a non-split hopup unit in. I had a feeding issue and was very confused because when I bumped it while upside down it would fire 1 round. But after a lot of testing I realized my feeding issue came from nozzle length. I shaved down the length of my nozzle and fixed the issue. However I didn't do a good enough job getting it straight or I shaved too much. Ending up with significant drop in fps and terrible accuracy. But feeding issue was fixed. Will order a 19.5mm nozzle and 20.7mm since stock m4 was 21.5. I believe the 20.7 will fix it if not 19.5 definitely will.
Have you fixed this? How did you shave it? I have same problem with a split hop up sr25, im planing to sand the tip of the nozle off bit by bit test it after each 6 sanding strokes prety much
@@epicmexican7153 I'm waiting for the replacement nozzle still, I live in Belize shippin takes a long time here... check out this video skip to 3:42 to save time czcams.com/video/8A17Ij8kxsU/video.html
@@epicmexican7153 Also although Ive seen a few guides of people shaving/cutting their nozzles I've yet to see a diy method that gets it smooth enough for me to fully trust the nozzle wont somehow create inaccuracies...
I'm newbie and wonder if the length of nozzle has any affect on accuracy or fps? Assume i have to use a very long nozzle like 50mm or more, can i improve fps and accuracy by just changing cylinder volume or barrel?
Hey I’m new and still learning the basics,how are you engaging the nozzle into the hop-up? I understand or think I do that you are pulling the gearbox out and making it fit in the upper receiver. Correct? And then? Appreciate any help from anyone viewing message. Love your channel 63 and getting into the hobby with my kid and grandkids
Nozzle sits on the tappet plate inside the gearbox. You have to open it to replace them. But the nozzle sticks out of the front of the box. It then connects to the back of the hop up.
So I’m having feeding issues on my kriss changed bucking and hop up bucking, got a new mag, still issues is it the air nozzle? It’s the oem and the only problem could be it’s old?
What do you do if your hop chamber set fully forward against receiver feeds but has poor airseal. Vs. hop chamber pressed rearward against gearbox will not feed? All my Hop Chambers (Maxx, Prowin, promy, TM) all exhibit play forward/ rearward. Too forward = very poor airseal, too rearward = no feeding bbs. I can’t find a sweet spot but also I think there shouldn’t be any hop up chamber play. Using Retro Arms split shell in Hurricane Metal body. Nozzle slightly longer than M4 won’t feed no matter where hop chamber is.
Try putting a thin rubber o-ring on the rear of your hopup chamber. The part tat goes into the front of the gearbox shell. that wee bit of spacing is sometimes all that is needed. You can get several different thicknesses of o-rings to try out.
Thought I was subscribed, now I am
Does this apply to GBBRs?
Id like to have an explanation about gbbr's nozzles and how they work, in order to achieve good seal
Big fan
@TheAirsoftTech Is your Upper Receiver custom Painted? if Yes, which product did you use?
often i ask myself what ist the korrekt Feeding position from Nozzle to Hopup there are no vids at all about this ,only your vid provides a small look.Thanks
I was using the SHS M4 nozzle with my Maxx hop unit and it was too long so I had to file it down to 21mm it wouldn’t feed before.
What was the problem with the m4? I have a shs nozzle mounted on a maxx model camera, and some shots go up, 5 normal shots and 1 up shot (hop up high)
I have the same set up (Maxx hop up and SHS nozzle), did filing down the nozzle completely solved your feeding issue?
(For me different mags have different issues. Some do not feed at all, some get the bb jammed half way and on the second shot it shoots (every other trigger pull it actually shoots the bb)). I am wondering if filing down the nozzle, or removing some of the hop up springs will resolve problems.
One thing to point out is that when I hold the mag at certain position/angle, feeding issues disappear.
Please let me know what you have done to solve your issue.
Thanks 🙏
Thanks for the tip ! Since you glue the nozzle to the tappet, it might be a good idea to do this test before and after gluing the nozzle or it doesn't matter ?
Don't glue it to the tappet plate, there is no reason to
@@Zeryth960 Ryan seems to do it, reason being that the nozzle might not be seating on the tappet plate without moving slightly, which can lead to fps consistency issues IIRC
@@Zeryth960 I glue it on every gun I work on, there is lots of different gap sizes in nozzles for the part that seats it to the tappet, and lots of different sized ridges on tappet plates. This mitigates those variations
Ah, so the "long" AK air nozzle for ICS split gearbox M4s, since the "short" one is ~19.7mm
K.t, g.p, c.a some a&k valken all have shorter nozzles. Infact your red ( assumed shs) nozzle was shorter then both of my shs and longer then my r.a but same length as my zci.
Any nozzle recommendations for an ASG scorpion evo? I had to shave down a plastic nozzle to make the right length but lost the taper at the same time
Measure stock one and go onto retro Arms website and order that length, they have air nozzles in any length standard bore size and bore up size
Marinus de Dreu the problem is I piled up the front end in a shattered the original. Totally my fault accidentally hit the trigger doing a spring swap to make the fields limits. Made a hell of a mess..... rookie mistake 🙄
hello, on the purple nozzle it looks like if it's not gowing flush to the lips of the hop up rubber, wouldn't it caust air leak ?
So how does the airnozzle sit to the bucking. Are the bucking "lips" supposed to slide over the nozzle?
Man I still wonder
Great video on a current topic that is an issue for me with an UMAREX HK416. I installed a gate titan, and the nozel position is not consistent shot to shot. Meaning that sometimes the nozel is further back at the moment of fire, and sometimes it is closer to the forward position. Think it has something to do with the pre-cocking and active braking. Any ideas?!
Could also be the sensors somehow not picking up at the exact same time. Also full auto would make it have random positions
That should not be the case since the tappet plate is released by the sector cam at always the same moment relatively to the release of the piston. This is a problem with your timing and other parts, not the gate.
I ran into similar before and corrected by adding a sector delay to the gear. Gives a little more time for the bbs to feed if it’s a feed problem. Or check to make sure your tappet plate is moving free, it’s pretty easy to misalign them on some gear boxes. Another spot is your piston seal.... lots of spots to look at....
Also, look at the tappet plate return spring. If its worn out and not very stiff, then the return of the nozzle might be different from shot to shot. Also check to make sure that there is nothing blocking the tappet plate from returning fully to the forward position.
Out of curiosity, how do you check if your air nozzle length is appropriate in a gearbox without the split feature that ICS gearboxes have?
You could try taking out the piston and spring (maybe the ARL too). Then slide the gearbox into the upper and cycle the gears with something through the pinion hole
If the muzzle of your inner barrel extends beyond the outer barrel and if you know the piston is fully forward, just blow down the muzzle end. You'll be trying to push air against what is hopefully a seal between hop rubber/nozzle and the piston head sealing against the cylinder head outlet.
And because some people on the net are complete maroons...mags and battery out of gun before doing this.
What about the seal between the air nozzle and bucking? How to figure out the right length for a proper seal?
I've just purchased a hop unit for my g&g and the air nozzle is to fat to fit in the hop unit can't even test the length isnthis a common problem or a faulty hop unit
What size fits a Valken asl+ kilo 45
I don't know why there has to be varying lengths. for instance, Ak pattern guns have 2 lengths. and m4's have 50 of them. and also theres a case of o no mp5 nozzles are sold out guess ill have to get a maxx nozzle.
@TheAirsoftTech Can also highly recommend Maxx's Titanium Adjustable Nozzle 19-22mm for getting that perfect air seal and feeding.
You just loctite the threads to keep it from moving?
what is that rail? it is like a mk18 but not
Can you please help me with this issue, i don't know what to do:
i have this problem:
I just upgraded 2 AEGs, one CM.098 and one CM.007
CM.098:
Maxx Model Pro
Map Leaf 70° super macaron
ZCI 499mm 6.02 SS Barrel
CM.007
Maxx Model Pro
Map Leaf 60° super macaron
Map Leaf 370mm 6.02 SS Barrel
in the CM.098 i kept the stock nozzle although i knew that MAXX model works on 21-21.25mm nozzles, the stock nozzle is huge, like 24+mm and as a result i can see it when i look through the feeding hole, BUT, it works perfectly fine, it just works, is this weird or not? should i leave it this way?
in the CM.007 the nozzle is shorter, i can barely see it through the feeding hole BUT i have a lot of dry shots... i installed the cm.007 parts (hopup, barrel and rubber) in the cm.098 to test it, and works perfectly fine, then i thought about the mags, i tried the stock hi cap mag in the M4 and works perfectly fine, no dry shots at all, as soon as i go back to the Battle Axe mid caps the dry shots start again.
How can I tell what length I need when it’s to short
How can we check if the nozzle is too short
My nozzle is too long to feed but to short the get a full seal with the bucking..... help 😣 (edit: I’m using a maxx me hoppy unit)
What happens when a nozzle is too short? low fps and also misfeeds? a video doing this would be nice
I know it's a year old but my sr25 the matrix one has this issue, it double feeds and only shoots 10-20 feet, after the right nozzle it's shooting way more.
if i have 16.1 shs gears with a m125 and full metal rack ares piston and a asg 40k motor why am i running into P.M.E
You shouldn't be running into pme with that setup, that's actually really interesting
Did you correct AOE? Put a MOSFET in with active breaking if you can't figure it out
Exact problem I had.
That's why I always buy Maxx adjustable nozzles
What does "too short" look like though?
you get terrible fps due to poor airseal
I just bought a new rifle and the nozzle is too long why is it like that if its brand new?
This didn't tell us how to find the right nozzle. Just tells us you need the right one. This isn't all that helpful. Having the nozzle go back far enough is just one of the factors. Also, you can only test this in the way you did with an ics split box. The air nozzle fitment is so important, and you have the least control over it. Just looking for answers
Gracias !! @airsoftcta
Немного полированный Нозл (Nozlе) повышает метры(!) в секунду на 2-3 метра!
What is the best ? SHS? Perun? Or what…
i have sanded the nozle of my m4 i lost some 30 fps
See the comment below about tapering the nozzle after sanding
never showed if its too short?
Sooo thats doesnt True. Proper lenght of nozzle in ics gb is 21mm with stock unit. There is problem if you change the hopup unit, than you need to check the lenght. If you have shorter nozzle, the BB trajectory is bad.
more like nine minute tech tips
ok but seriously I have a CA VSS and the stock airnozzle is poopy, so i got one that's 0.5mm longer than the original. Will I have to shave that down? its a specialized v3 gearbox
there was no 19mm airnozzle on evike but then again i didn't search too hard
Go to retro Arms website, they have any length air nozzle, in both standard, and SBU (standard bore up)
@@marinusdedreu3833 Turns out they are the same exact size, i didn't use very a precise measurement device. Finally got everything shimmed and closed up, hopefully it works
dont stress yourself
☺😊😀😁😂5 Smile's
yo get some food 7:24
Redefining five minutes
This tutorial is just wrong. Just by looking at the short nozzle you can tell the air seal is going to be terrible. You can literally see a small gap. It's supposed to kiss the hopup rubber.
Shaving a nozzle makes aboslute zero sens because you will destroy the nozzle-rubber airseal...