That came out quite nice, really liked the oil exhaust work as well as those pipes. And another vote for the Silhouette tutorial. I have a Portrait 3 that I got just for this purpose.
Another stunner, excellent work as ever! Also I mentioned to you a while back that Zvezda were releasing a 1/144 757 200. It's being released very soon so keep an eye out in the model stores!
The new Eduard decals may look "wide" in how the film is very glossy and broad, but they work as well as the best I have seen, settling down into Eduard's minuscule depressed rivets (using just micro sol over under, on matte paint with no gloss or polishing) with no issue. Above average adhesion, even when a bit of dishwasher liquid is added to the dipping water, as they tend to "stick" and not move around well. I never remove their film, but both the film and the left behind colour put up a fair fight against scratching off, which makes them more handling resistant than any other I have used. They never just flake off, even on matte paint.
I'll add that the tape pulling off the film trick seems to work very well on metal finishes, if you really melt them down and wait the prescribed 24 hours. The best way to do this is to lay the pulling tape without burnishing for a "weak" pull off, this will weaken the film on the first pull. Then burnish a new tape really well, and the film comes off really easy, with a few remaining clumps hanging loosely and easy to remove... On do this on metal finishes, as I fail to see the point on camo. The colours left behind are quite tough (!!!), even without the film...
Wash down your plastic after assembly with alcohol to clean any oils from your finger prints off and dust. Make sure you're mixing it before spraying. The only time I've had it peel off is when the surface wasn't clean
I sometimes use semi-gloss Tamiya or nothing at all. Just make sure your wash has a different base than your paint. IE acrylic wash on acrylic paint is a bad time. Enamel on lacquered okay.
@@TheModelGuy thanks mate for the answer and it will be a good benefit to see a big tutorial for silhouette how you make them and any possibility to share the files.?
Eduard decals suck, plane and simple. They need a kick in the nuts for moving away from cartograph. But they will never acknowledge their decals are not really that good.
Cartograph is the GOAT of decals!
That was a fantastic build, I do like the grey/green cao scheme
Great watch this and good finish. Love to see the silhouette cutter in use for markings. Thanks.
I'd love to see that Silhouette tutorial. We have a Cricut and I'm sure the concepts would transfer.
i buy the new tempest kit..your super tutorial will sure help me in the build🙂..stunning work Man 👏.. greats from Italy
Incredible job
Thank you :)
Looks stunning!
That came out quite nice, really liked the oil exhaust work as well as those pipes. And another vote for the Silhouette tutorial. I have a Portrait 3 that I got just for this purpose.
Another great video to watch
Another stunner, excellent work as ever!
Also I mentioned to you a while back that Zvezda were releasing a 1/144 757 200. It's being released very soon so keep an eye out in the model stores!
The 757 is my favorite airliner. I will be looking for that
Really nice work on this one given me a lot of ideas for my one 😁
Excellent.
I would like to see how you do this stickers for sure!!
The new Eduard decals may look "wide" in how the film is very glossy and broad, but they work as well as the best I have seen, settling down into Eduard's minuscule depressed rivets (using just micro sol over under, on matte paint with no gloss or polishing) with no issue. Above average adhesion, even when a bit of dishwasher liquid is added to the dipping water, as they tend to "stick" and not move around well. I never remove their film, but both the film and the left behind colour put up a fair fight against scratching off, which makes them more handling resistant than any other I have used. They never just flake off, even on matte paint.
I'll add that the tape pulling off the film trick seems to work very well on metal finishes, if you really melt them down and wait the prescribed 24 hours. The best way to do this is to lay the pulling tape without burnishing for a "weak" pull off, this will weaken the film on the first pull. Then burnish a new tape really well, and the film comes off really easy, with a few remaining clumps hanging loosely and easy to remove... On do this on metal finishes, as I fail to see the point on camo. The colours left behind are quite tough (!!!), even without the film...
I'd love to see a video on how you make your masks
me toooo
I'll probably do one soon. There's a lot of demand for it
yes for a silhouette demo
Yes…please demonstrate the Silhouette cutter for painting stencils.
Mask creation process please.
Love your work!!!!
I see you just tack your masks on with little pieces of masking tape - do you use anything else?
Nope, just tape rolled back on itself.
@@TheModelGuy 🙏🙏
Amazing work as always; do you ever use a finish coat after weathering? If so which?
Once the model complete I hit it with Tamiya XF-86 flat clear to suck any shine out of it.
in exausts you could use revell color 95 it is great
True, but where's the fun in one colour?
would love to see the tutorial I have a Cricut as well but I bet it's similar
Really new to modeling, I have two questions. Do you clear coat your models after paint before oils? What size needle on your airbrush do you use?
I’ll put down a flat coat before oils. My cheap brush I use for 90% of the work has a .03 needle in it. My detail brush has a .015
Superb work! Where did you get the stand you place the model on?
It's the Master Models Benchmate
@@TheModelGuy Thank you!!
my mr surfacer 1500 peels when i put any masking tape over the next layer over. do you do several layers and let it dry for days?
Wash down your plastic after assembly with alcohol to clean any oils from your finger prints off and dust. Make sure you're mixing it before spraying. The only time I've had it peel off is when the surface wasn't clean
Which type of laquer do you use before wash?
I sometimes use semi-gloss Tamiya or nothing at all. Just make sure your wash has a different base than your paint. IE acrylic wash on acrylic paint is a bad time. Enamel on lacquered okay.
What dilution you use with ak real colors?
I don't have an exact ratio, but it's about 3 parts thinner, 1 part paint. That's a good place to start and 23 PSI
@@TheModelGuy thanks mate for the answer and it will be a good benefit to see a big tutorial for silhouette how you make them and any possibility to share the files.?
@@giorgosgr2 More than likely!
Silhouette video? Yes by all means. Please.
Check out my masking video
Could you please let me know the name of the “4 way” holder of the kit you’re using. It looks perfect for me.
Eduard decals suck, plane and simple. They need a kick in the nuts for moving away from cartograph. But they will never acknowledge their decals are not really that good.
Great stuff!!