3 Wells on 1 Property! Installing a New Grundfos Well Pump & Testing it after Hydro-Fracking.
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2024
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In this video I install a 3" Grundfos Pump After Hydro-Fracking a well that was near used until now. The old 3 Phase system was disconnected and our new Residencial system was hooked up. Lots of great info in the Video.
There's dozens of Helpful Plumbing Videos on my Well Pump Q&A Playlist, So go check it out!
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400 gallon storage tank in the basement and a jet pump feeding the house would also be a solution.. have the well feed the storage tank with a float switch and the jet pump and bladder tank feed the house..
I thought the same thing! Definitely a viable option
I added a tank to my deep well system as a way to settle out sediment and sand. I was not expecting how much water flow gain I'd get. I have horses and have spent weeks of my life waiting on troughs to fill at 5GPM and now I have over 30 GPM.
Why can I not stop watching these? I don't even have a well! I wonder if the city will let me drill one, lol.
Hello and greetings from Kanab Utah ... Quite a few of the folks out here in southern Utah have wells with this kind of performance. The solution for most of them is to invest in a potable water storage tank. They have gone up in price recently but everything else has also. If you get yourself a 2500 gallon storage tank you can fill it slowly and probably avoid running the well water levels real low. Thank you Philip for all your efforts. Respectfully, Utah Mike. 🤩👍
The only trouble with that is keeping it clean. Filtering the water before the storage tank is a must. Also tank must be kept clean and sanitized. In a warm climate, crap can start to grow in the water if the tank isn't cycled very fast. City water towers the water is chlorinated and treated before its sent to the water towers.
I was thinking about that also, but I was thinking of a 500 gal tank. With a 500 gal tank, the water gets constantly refreshed and doesn't have time to stagnat.
For anybody designing their own system, don’t forget to do a voltage drop calculation when deciding on wire gauge. If you cheap out on your wire size, the pump ends up not getting adequate voltage. The pump responds the only way it can, by increasing current draw, which may shorten the lifespan of the pump.
Absolutely. It's a viscious cycle. Low voltage increases amp draw which drops voltage more increasing amp draw more.
I always upsize if even close. 75-90 feet I go 10 AWG. Code is the bare minimum and not always best.
@@mfd4505 yep - code will keep it from burning down, but might not keep it performing up to spec. I have this issue with 15A 14AWG circuits in parts of the house (including outdoor outlets) where at the end of the daisy-chain the 118V might only be 105V drawing 12A.
Or use a pump with a 'soft start' feature like H20 uses. They don't draw a huge inrush current, the pump ramps up to full speed. This saves the contacts in your pressure switch from burning, and wire from chafing in the hole, since the whole pump and pipe assembly doesn't jerk so hard every time the pump starts.
I used to haul bulk water in rural areas. I had one customer that I occasionally would 'top up'..... they had a well that would draw down on a steady demand. They put in a precast cistern, with a low capacity pump that ran pretty steady filling the cistern (their reserve). The cistern had its own pump and then could meet peak demand. Ran that way for years.
Those types of systems are very common out west. Pricey, but functional
I thought the same thing. Why not just put in a tank and use it for peak capacity. If the well is delivering 5gpm, you could easily keep a 500 or thousand gallon tank topped up overnight and trigger the well pump off the tank level. That would seem a lot cheaper than having multiple wells, even with the initial cost of the tank.
I’m an engineer and we design and install commercial systems. This guy is always spot on with his advice. Love watching your content 👍🏻
This is a complex and financially risky job right here and you made it simple and economical. And you filmed it. Friggin great job.
Love your channel!! You are a great teacher of your trade sir. Thanks for your honest workmanship! The world needs more honest men in the world. Keep up the good work. You tube is a better place with your channel. I'm sure many viewers will agree.
As a DIY home builder in Colorado, I dealt with this type of issues with a 2000 gallon cistern. Once filled, the pump never runs dry.
So, a low flow pump in the well to a cistern, a 2 gallon pump in the cistern feeding the house, etc.
just my thoughts based on my experience.
Moved onto property with a well last year. Learned so much here. At least now if I have problems I can at least ask intelligent questions and probably tell if they're BSing me. Thanks!
Wells are so intriguing. I had to move a well because of an addition. I was at 428' and it was perfect, never ran out, great quality. When they drilled the new well 25' away they went to 650' cause it wasn't making enough. I had to have it fracked and the iron level still hasn't stabilized, so much so the county health dept hasn't green lighted the new well. They just came for their 3rd test so I think it will pass this time.
excellent vid
Your channel is awesome me my dad and my brother in law replaced my well system last weekend and it was all galvanized stick pipe 150 ft down. Talk about a project. Keep producing good content and i will keep learning thank you!
Nice job, All that previous fancy plumbing will come in handy for 2nd pump add-in.
Have a great day
Irrigation tech here, unrolling the poly is easily a 1 man job. Leave the roll in the sun for 30 minutes, secure the one end, walk backwards and “hump” the pipe to unroll it. Basically hip check up to bump it up and the natural tension of the roll with help. Already hot pipe is easy to work with. Been unrolling those rolls alone for years. 1.5” poly gets a bit difficult but is still doable
Fun watching these videos. My well is around 200 ft deep. It makes great water and plenty of it, so I am fortunate. That being said, the previous pump failed because it fell off the pipe and sucked electrical tape into it. Using the right components is only half the job. The rest is the installation. (similar thing happened with my AC system at my previous house; poor installation eventually led to failure)
Grundfos is the best pump out there i used to do pump work
If you go deeper than 300 feet you need 250 pound pipe up to 400 feet
I have purchased from him... he is so patient especially with my mistakes:)
Been super time challanged as of late lol :) what service did you want to chat on ?
place your "doubled" hose clamps heads 180 degree apart and opposite directions from each other or at minimum 90 degree. why? some times they can seep a bit and cause a weak/thin spots at the worm gear head when side by side. 😁 I learned the hard way over the years.
Great video. What about a storage tank to draw from while the 1 1/4 gpm well can recover the usage... sounds like a solid plan. Enjoy your videos very informative
4:23 I install 1/2 hp 5gal per min Goulds pumps up to 300 ft all the time, some of them I replace r up to 60yrs old, 4:40 we service a 900ft well with the black roll pipe
I used the soft start Grundfos in my Son's 705 foot deep well. Best pump on the market. The slow ramp up allows a smaller wire size too, but do due diligence to size it correctly .
Grundfos seems to be good. Have used many of their circulator pumps and boiler feed water pumps over the years, rebuild kits, impeller kits etc. No issues, very reliable and not too expensive.
A man with a Plan !!
😁😁👍
Love watching your channel, so many people have wells need people like you. Thank you for your service.
Incredible the amounts of money that people can invest, without knowing exactly how to do a proper installation.
What I like about your videos is the technical information of the parts used to install the system.
In addition, you show us the installation errors of other companies (which you correct).
Now what about the pump (impeller) that is disintegrating. This company that installed it, does not know much about the applications of each pump. But knows how to shell out the money from people who know nothing about self-contained water supply. Thank you for all this good information.🍻🍻
I've always had excellent results with Gould pumps. The brand you promote has a well known defective check valve problem and the variable start up circuits fail constantly. Best to go with standard well built. And I find Gould is sturdier and more heavy duty
You also didnt give credit for a 1 to 3 phase variable conversation unit. When running properly the energy usage and operating costs are MUCH less.
Man nice outcome, Very tough to own a home with limited water and high cost to get it.
Very informative. Thanks
From all of your videos I've watched so far,you seem like a pretty "Fracking" good guy.
A pentek intellidrive pid 30 wouldve worked. takes single phase in and converts to 3 phase. Those are much better than the f&w. For future reference. We've ran into those 3" pumps at those depths can blow holes in the poly near the pump from building heat.
I ;ove your channel. You are an honest professional and you help your customers out as much as possible. Thank You for be honest and teaching others about your work. May The Lord Bless You in all that You Do!!!
great content! cant wait to see u pull the hack job out of the well down hill.
Hi. You could make some small water storage in the basement. a 250 gallons of water cube would give the well plenty of time to refill
Great education, many thanks for sharing your experience with us. I'm still waiting to do my first one in Uganda, probably in another week or so. Your education is helping me a lot before I start my first well with a submersible pump. Thanks a bunch
Great info!!
Good move. Love how your future plan for the future of this install. Good judgement.
Just ibstall antank and then theyll have reserve and able to use the good water well.
Have a well in show low arizona old windmill minus tower, sucker rod pump still in
6inch casing i hooked up old pump jack and made small Aframe to lift warer pumps at 3.5 gpm 220v motor 2.5" pulley on motor 11" pulley in pump jack. Watching your channel has been awesome.
Keep it up
And thank you
Ok here is what I did with a low volume well, I have my well pump feed a 2000 gal cistern tank the gravity feed my house, with a cheaper pump to feed house pressure. The well pump controller has no load shutoff plus cistern float switch and timer that turns well pump on 3 times in 24 hrs, or when needed. For about 15 mins as the well will run dry if run longer than about 25 min. This has worked for years for a domestic house. Plus water for garden and lawn. I will run out if I forget and leave water on, oops.
Enjoy your videos and very informative contents, very good store with reasonable prices.
Ok let’s
Many of the wells here in the Phoenix area are 1000ft +
Any thought of installing a 500 to 1000gallon tank to take the well water and a small pressure pump to run the house . A float switch for the well will keep tank the topped up and the house will not run out of water easily. Should be significantly cheaper than sorting out the far deep well
Three wells, Well Well Well
That’s some deep wells
Awesome work. Makes total sense. Your one of the few.....
I would put in a holding tank nearby and also a pump protection device for well pump, slightly chlorinate well with a paristalic feeder, but good job, since I’m in the biz also for a bit, 25 yrs in the ca sierras💦
use the 3 ph for the farm stuff and other for house just have to replumb lol
So much good info here!
My thought on the 3hp 3phase pump is that it was not sized correctly for the well. I had the same issue with my well. I was was explained to me by a well pump expert that proper calculations need to be done so that the head pressure is correct. This will help keep the impellers centered in the pump assembly and prevent the impellers from wearing out.
Thanks for the great knowledge
someone took advantage of them sad. glad they got you
I see it all too often.
Love the channel, which you were in the Texas Hill Country. In this specific case why not install a large bulk tank and draw off that? We have a low producing well and pump into a 5000 gal tank ant then pump into a standard pressure tank configuration.
I know this is some time ago but just found your channel now. Wasn't there another well (not the one with the 3 fase pump) that you could try to frack also and then tie it together with the other one you fracked. Maybe this would give enough water so you didn't have to use the one with the sulfer ?
it's very possible the well with 580' deep pump may draw down to below the 300 foot level on high GPM usage or in dry climate periods. but it's possible they overkilled it ten fold thinking they were saving themselves a headache, all while causing them(seeing the single small bladder tank size!).
Why not put a double size pressure tank or just add another one. Increase the storage and perhaps they will be able to have enough during the day and it will refill at night?
FYI - Lowes and Home Depot (at least in my area) no longer offer wire-by-the-foot if you want more than about 25 feet. They'll refer you to buy 100/500/1000 foot boxes/reels. Also VERY IMPORTANT - now that they insist on you checking out before you can touch the wire you bought, be sure to inspect it IMMEDIATELY after checkout, before leaving the store. I got home with the pre-bagged wire they handed me and found out someone had sliced thru a bunch of the insulation and a bunch of it was unusable, but once leaving the store became a he-said she-said headache of "how do we know you didn't damage it".
If they did not have the second well, a 1000 gallon cistern would also have solved the problem of a gallon a minute producing well. 24x60 is 1440 gallons a day. The cistern acts like a buffer, during high usage periods, but refills during the time water is not in high demand. My neighbor had that problem, and a cistern solved it for them. A separate pump at the bottom of the cistern supplies the pressure tank inside the house. The well pump output flows directly into the cistern and a float connects to cutoff switch for well pump. Pump is protected by a separate circuit monitor that shuts off pump I’d it runs dry. The cistern cost $5000 installed with its own pump. pulling that deep well pump at 580 feet and replacing it will a pump at 300 feet was probably way less expensive than installing a cistern.
Low volume sulphur wells are common around here. Everyone has large capacity (500-3000 gallon) storage tanks to air out their water.
Had similar water with hydrogen sulfide. I too ran well to a 300 gallon storage tank and added an air bubbler system (air pump like on a aeration septic system). This worked nicely at removing the sulfur smell. The air bubbler works by oxidizing the hydrogen sulfide with oxygen and enabling bubble surface exchange where hydrogen sulfide had an easy escape route. Used a simple jet pump connected to the above-ground storage air bubbler tank to pressure up the house water system. It still needed to run water through limestone calcium filter/exchanger to adjust the pH (sulfur water is very low pH and corrosive).
Final note, be sure air bubbler is not near final water pump suction foot-valve!
Give thought to “upsizing” the motor to the pump. Electric utilities routinely reduce voltage in periods of high demand. The oversized motor runs better under these conditions.
Is there a 240 vac single phase softstart available for residential wells? I would rather have electronics above ground for ease of replacement.
I have been watching your CZcams I have a question never seen you install sisteurns
Sometimes a buffer tank is the only option. 500 gallons should be sufficient.
Try drilling thru vertical rock fissures for Primary Water.
Those days there's no time for recording CZcams videos lol! 100% focus is required
Very well researched and explained. Thank you for sharing
Yes great idea take the not great water and use it for garage and hoses then keeping the cleaner water for household use is a great idea. Plus if the smaller well does dry up it's just a few connection in the house to switch it over to the other one
Good job
Tried to lift my pump thats on a pitless 156ft well. 1-1/4" Schedule 120 PVC pipe. Two men lifting could barely get it off the pitless. Had to go get the excavator to lift it out a few feet...After that I realized I needed a different approach to the job.
Needs a crane! That's dangerous weight!
I just bought a house in Texas with a “Capped” well… that got me started watching your channel to learn about repairing & drilling wells. Next thing I knew I was binge watching because the work you do is so fascinating and complex. I have many videos to watch still, but as I was watching you work with a well that only put out a gallon a minute I was wondering, why not have a large storage tank that the well can be filling during the night or other low usage times?
That's a definite possibility & a solution to that problem. But everything costs money.
@@h2omechanic Thanks for the reply. I know ZERO about wells and was just wondering if it’s even possible. Watching you do your well magic makes me envious of your skills, but I am a fast learner and will soon know enough about wells to get myself into some serious dilemma! I am going to Venmo you a small donation… you deserve more!
Another advantage of the Grundfos pump is that since it ramps up slowly, you can run it from a smaller genny than you might expect.
Great job and video, sir. Take care and God Bless.
make sure you adjust the expansion tank air pressure to allow for the slow ramping and long lines. the old standard was 2psi lower than cut in pressure, but that isn't enough buffer for the slow/soft start pumps, you need 6 to 8psi less air charge than cut-in and will want to oversize the tank due to volume loss. (learned the hard way)
I hope when you change the other pump and replum you make a video
16:26 that tiny well tank for a large house, deep well and giant pump, what were they thinking? top that off with no surge/lightning protection!
oh right, sales/repair of new pumps/controllers and labor... 🙃
Should I continue with a single well for two residents and how can someone solve the calcium or lime build up? My well is only 125’
The thing that I have always wondered is why ground the pump to the electrical service when it’s literally submerged in a ground that’s way more direct than the wire to the house. It’s like the well pump is a ground for the electrical service, not the opposite…. It’s just strange to me. And I was thinking about a ballast tank would definitely help with the volume and the quality of the water for this homeowner
It is not recommended to have 2 grounding points on one electric service. Use 1 grounding rod at the service entrance.
Hi New comer to your videos I am intrigued that all the well you work on are DEEP 300 + feet deep! I live in Queensland Australia and in our area most bores are less than 200ft. Do you use a water diviner , if not how do you know where to drill ? Regards Neil
Love watching your stuff! Have you ever heard of the Well Manager system for low yielding wells?? Any thoughts on it if so?
And how far north into central VA do you travel to jobs?
would like to see videos on geothermal or other type wells used with hvac?
Check out performance pipe, pthey specialize in HDPE pipe
Great video! Filled with tons of information! I love your content. Just had one question. You said 1/2 hp pump is only good for 120 feet? My old house well was 3 gpm at 240 feet and had a 1/2 hp pump. My parents house is just about 300feet and also has a 1/2hp pump. How and why would the driller do this?
In this video you let the pump run free at the well head. Why do you not do that in every case, to test / flush / clear mud etc?
Can you show the electric connection before the sleeve covers it
Use to figure a half pound per foot of elevation to determine head pressure and never liked those single phase to three phase converters...
Same here. Simple math
I’m new to your channel . Why doesn’t the homeowner just get a large tank like a 1200 gallon tank and pump up to the big tank at a slow rate then they can draw from the large tank and have plenty of water ??
Great video. Why don’t you also include footage showing the new plumbing work inside?
Thanks
Good Job!
Wow that's insane cost for such unnecessary 3 phase equipment, I always recommend standard pumps and tanks.
Yep that there is what I like to call "Cat Hair" so yep always a bad sign the pumps GG.
You gotta love it when they put a filter between the pump and tank "It never had a problem before" Oh it will!
I find it better to have cartridge filter after say a carbon filter as it can catch any carbon dust also just like you did.
You could always install a standard 120 gallon glass lind or fiberglass tank with a aerator to reduce the H2s almost completely without filtration.
This would lower the pump output to say 5-7 gpm and add about 15 psi of backpressure through the micronizer but is a very good way to remove H2s.
You would also gain a 60 gallon reserve in the tank to about 10 psi if pump won't keep up where the bladder tank will only give you 10 gallons drawdown.
Can you create more storage from the 1 gal well? Multiple pressure tanks ???
I worked on a system way up in mnts Sunday river maine .I was a huge cabin with 8 bathrooms .I took forever to find well head .had been sitting 8 years .was a crackhead broke in filled system with water so yes many problems
My brother replaced his 175 foot on 1 inch steel pipe with new pump and black plastic pipe. No one ever had to touch the well, it just worked. Installed in 1978 and replaced in 2017. Ever heard of Irons Mountain in Allegany County Maryland? It’s a heck of a view, maybe 50 miles, but the homes all have a big cistern for rain water and sometimes have to truck in water. Some of the DRY WELLS are 800 feet.
what about fracling the 3rd well and see if it will augment the 1st well.
Just a fyi its a vfd variable frequency drive
The goonzquad guys have a well problem it would be nice to see a collaboration with them
have you switched to using shrink tubing for waterproofing splices instead of that special tape?
I still use both. This was more for the viewers and a product I offer for sale. The Rubber Tape is just tried & true & how I was taught
@@h2omechanic ok thanx
Good show. That water level measurement sounder you have what is the make and where could I buy one.
Nice to know this stuff but would rather hire you to do the job
Again, late to the party on this (life sure does get busy at times). I am curious why no one suggested a two stage system on the well that makes clean water. It can produce over 1400 gallons a day, probably over what they most likely need. I know it means another tank and some added electrics. I would think they would be happy to do that if it meant they didn't run dry and need to wait for the well to recover.
Of course toy must remember voltage drop as well as how long the total run is back to the breaker box as it mandates the size of wire to the switch. I like the pump he used but it's crap if your making sand. Of course you could use a sock with a drain down. Buddy you wouldn't make it a day with me. The main places the wire fails is at the wellhead and the last 10 ft to the pump. My installs the water or off Conn is taped up individual while still warm to help shrink the electric tape. Then I use 3 or 4. Inch 10 mil tape to tape the first 10 to 14 ft of wire to the pipe. I only use 3/4 tape on the Conn after hearing them to seal.
So dude what your warranty? Pump, pipe, wire labor? So you just a grundfos man or do you use others like Franklin? Try installing a large storage tank a gallon a minute is 1440 gallons a day and that's usable. You don't use any type of pump monitoring equipment? Take care and keep the water flowing.
I think I'd build a water tank, burry about a 1500-2000 gallon tank, put it on a float and timer, to fill it . Allowing it to run for 20 minutes a hour or something until full. Put a pump in the tank to a normal system! They could probably do most of it their self dig the hole, a new septic tank would work to store the water, just use mortar to seal it up, and cover with plastic before covering, build a small chimney to allow access, with a concrete pad covering it. With 1" lines in and out, it would have to be a cheaper option, also closing the valves to most of the usage points to swallow only 70% of the flow to slow the water use. Our a reducer to 1/2" in line, to slow the water use! 1 gpm, and 3/3 gpm isn't going to be that noticable, unless you are the well producing barely over that, reduction to 70-75% of the wells supply, will help a lot!
I appreciate your videos so much and have learned a lot, but theres definitely missing steps here and there and it makes it very hard when it may be a simple step for you, but it leaves people who don’t have the experience and the knowledge confused. For example in this video, how did you attach the pipe to the pump? What do you need to do to prep the heat wire splice? Do you twist the wires together or just but the ends together? Is there another piece that goes under the shrink plastic part? Or did I just miss that part?
👍🏽
Two questions, Taping at the pump, have you ever considered a nice piece of heat shrink over that section? Low well output, I wondered if a small cistern would have made any difference in useful capacity?
Did you solder the splices? I definately would.
Great channel! The information is easy to understand and very helpful.
I need some advice.
Any experience with using a lake for supply. Currently using well pump in a weighted rack resting 18” off the lake bed ~40’ below the surface & ~250 from the house. I’m replacing all 250’ of 1”/200psi tubing due to a break in the buried line from the house to shoreline.
By the way, 150’ heat tape that extends well beyond the ice line in winter.
Thanks
trench it deeper and run larger pvc electrical conduit as a sleeve!(place all bell ends the same way, use no elbows/fittings/premade bends!) terminate it into a small pit at both ends. then you can easily re-pull a new water line/heat tape(if still needed). maybe run two in parallel and keep one "dry" for fast changeover if very important to keep water flow.