I'll never buy Nuln Oil again after this
Vložit
- čas přidán 27. 02. 2024
- 👉Support the channel and view Extra footage from the vids on Patreon
/ zumikito
Support the channel by purchasing any hobby products using following links (As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases you do after using these links at no extra cost for you)
👉Amazon US:
Odorless Thinner: amzn.to/49LTWlS
Oil Paint: amzn.to/3SQdxdY
👉Amazon EU:
Odorless Thinner: amzn.to/48DZEW6
Oil Paint: amzn.to/4bTSoYT
/ zumikit0
/ zumikit0
I am painting miniatures for warhammer 40k, age of sigmar, marvel crisis protocol, D&D and much more! Whether it is superhero miniatures, heroic characters or space marines, I will paint them! If you are looking for some sweet miniature painting tutorials or warhammer hobby content in general, this is the right channel for you! - Jak na to + styl
Subscribe if you love edging
Subscribe if you like washing muscular men!
Subscribe if you hate GW but love it too much to quit!!!
It may not work as well as oil washes, but I just use "future floor finish" to dilute whatever color paint I want into a wash. I could swear that it creates fewer stains and flows better than commercial washes.
Pause.
I love edging so much that i unsubscribed just to subscribe again!
You use washes to add definition.
I use washes to stain surfaces instead of applying light and shadow.
We are not the same.
For me this worked from turning bright robes into dingy realistic robes for my skaven. Unfortunately spending to much time getting the wash to behave over big surfaces meant I caused alot of surface texture issues.
@@blakearius
Here's what I do:
Apply basecoat
Wash everything (be mindful of deliberately placing more wash in recess folds)
Dry brush heavily with midtone, then with highlight color
Wash again with thinned shade or glaze, apply evenly with a big brush.
For something like leather, you can use a swine hair brush, something with big bristles, to drybrush a scratched 'texture' onto the surface (painted, not literally scratched) - still need to apply a wash afterwards.
It sounds like a lot, but it's really simple, especially for batch painting.
@@SmilomaniacI'll try that formula on the miniature I stripped. Cheers.
He is doing a pin wash with the oils, which is just one technique. You can still stain surfaces with oils and enamels and still have way more control than with acrylic washes.
@@szlachcic22I know. It's a self depricating joke.
This has been no secret in the historicals and gunpla communities. It’s amazing how we don’t cross pollinate when the tasks are ultimately the same.
That’s why I watch all relevant videos , you can learn so much !
It will become common knowledge as soon as GW releases an overpriced line of oil paints.
I think part of it is because some painters don't want to mess with solvents. Sucks for them tho Tamiya Panel liners are the goat
having only started Gunpla 12 months ago I was initially shocked at how good panel liners were, even if you have to gloss coat everything first to avoid it "eating" the plastic. also tamia Panel liner and x20 tamia thinner are easy as heck to use together if you've got cotton swabs and time on your hands since it needs 24 hours to fully dry unless you've got australia conditions, in which case it dries in like 2 hours tops
As someone who's been building gunpla for years before ever getting into miniature painting, seeing people 'discover' things like panel liners brings me joy. Can't wait for the discovery of a secret way of adding detail to your vehicles/dreadnoughts by using panel line scribers or plaplate :)
You can also use the Tamiya panel liner.
It is basically a pot with a microbrush that works exactly as you show with the oil paints, but it means that you do not have to store spirit oils yourself, so that is an advantage.
using spirits to clean up is the bonus tho. So you'd probably buy it anyway
the gunpla Mr Hobby line is also really good
Yeah these are great. Then you only need a cotton swab to clean up and don't have to worry about cleaning the brushes you use.
@@Crushanator1Are those lacquers though?
don't use it. This panel liner makes your plastic brittle over time and destroys it
Zumikito, you forgot about one important thing for using washes. To flow into recesses properly washes needs to be applied not on the paint - like acrylics especially - but on the clear coat of lacquer / varnish as described in multiple scale modelers books. Without varnish the wash will create splashes and stains instead of going into recesses. Try on concrete . Without lacquer or varnish the wash will sink in place.
So, the matt varnish is that necessary?
@user-sv9os8hq2d Gloss varnish. Them washes. Then Matt varnish for if model needs to be Matt. Just be careful with Matt varnish if you paint real Metallics as it will Matt them. For real Metallics gloss or maybe satin varnish at the end to protect the model. Just do some test on cheap models and you will get the best answer what works and what not.
@@user-ef7mt1kh1v Got it. Thanks for reply!
I never knew that, so I'm intrigued to try
Also don't forget, with oil washes you often get more and for a cheaper price compared to GW's Nuln Oil. Win, win
Almost everything is cheaper than a bottle Nuln Oil.
Lol, not if you go for more than student grade. I recently got a starter set for $100au but then filling out the colours(purple, viridian, paynes grey, cadmium red etc) set me back another $350au. But yes if you just buy burnt umber as an agrax replacement it's cheaper in the long run.
@@BlommaBaumbart Does that included losses when you inevitably spill the bottle of Nuln Oil?
Which is the Agrax equivalent with oils?
@@jaimiting Brown.
For nuln im covering everything, if i want to do just recesses i thin down a black paint and paint it in. You have options if you don't want want to use oil.
I've been using inks!
Oh nice, a new upload from my favorite rimming teacher!
Two brushes, one space marine.
tamiya panel liner is also really good for this
Can confirm. Gundam panel liner for the win.
Yup. It's wild to me that gunpla and warhammer doesn't have that much cross over in products when so many of them would be perfect for each other.
@@TrizfaceNot really.
GW sells toys. That has limits on what they can sell as far as harmfull substances go.
@@dwwolf4636 I don't mean from GW. Just in the hobby scene. It's like they're in two different worlds despite a lot of hobby tricks and products being really good for both.
I've only known panel lining with panel accent. Doing it with a wash just seems like nonsense to me lol.
@@Trizface around here in Asia there's a lot of overlap between the two but that might be because guys who are into gunpla and scale modeling pickup warhammer and mini painting and most people I know just panel line and apply a matte varnish
I only use washes to add another layer of transparent finish to stuff. Oils are the thing that actually do the recess shading.
Oils are actually amazing for blending due to their long working times, so they don't need to be restricted to recess shading.
I use inks for that
Fun fact Nuln oil is slightly behind the average price of human blood, making it one of the top 10 most expensive liquids on earth.
"making it one of the top 10 most expensive liquids on earth" I seriously doubt it is true.
@@MichaRabiej You're right, it's not in the top ten. A gallon of blood is around $1,500/gallon, a gallon of Nuln Oil (at $7/pot) is just under $1,472. So depending on the cost of the Nuln Oil, it *could* be one of the top 10 most expensive liquids on earth (if we take the average list's word that Blood is #10 at $1,500/gal).
@@Diana2112GamingBlood is on 10th place of "top 10 mot expensive liquids" in Google results, just because they decided to put one example of medicine, one example of perfume etc, to make the list more entertaining. If those venoms cost $100k per gallon, then I presume most expensive liquids are simply venoms of different reptiles.
Also there are injections like Hemgenix or Zolgensma that cost several millions of dollars per dose. Those are liquid.
that's crap. The majority of perfumes are far more expensive per ML than Nuln Oil by consumer price (which is what you're also basing Nuln Oil on) - I'm looking at a random perfume store right now and Miss Dior, a mid-price perfume, is nearly £2 per ML whereas Nuln Oil is around 25p per ML
@@MrSquare It's pretty obvious if you start breaking the minutia of the joke down it falls apart. There are other PAINTS sold that are more expensive for less volume than Citadel. Yes, perfumes are one of the categories of things that generally are more expensive (falling in the 6-4th most expensive range, depending on which brand they go with, Chanel No. 5 being listed as the 5th most expensive liquid), or, ya know, rather than pick the thing to death you could laugh and move on with your day instead of being an insufferable funsucking heretic.
Great advice as always. I have finally taken the plunge into painting miniatures. I have lurked on your channel for a long time and now using your videos I feel like I can do this (poorly lol). Its been a bumpy and messy road, but I love it this far. Thanks and paint on!
I use both shades and tamiya panel liner. Both are fantastic for certain things and panel liner is enamel so you don’t mess up your acrylics when cleaning it off or making mistakes.
Also, to help the oil paint flow into the recesses a layer of gloss varnish makes wonders.
makes it easier to clean spillage too
Love the call back to older videos. That right there is the benefit of organization and cataloging.
I basically JUST use enamel or oil washes for recess shading now. It's sped up my work considerably, and made for some beautiful pieces, too.
Literally gone through this journey and oil washed for the first time this week. Painting epic scale white scars with nuln oil then laboriously layering over the top. It was the slow pace that pushed me to try oil washes... much better
if you often feel a bit sick around mineral spirits, like I do, then a gloss varnish over the model before applying the regular acrylic wash is a neat trick to help minimize the amount of ugly stains. Though I guess a gloss varnish also works great for oil washes as well.
The gloss varnish is one of the most important steps to this process. This video is incomplete without it.
Mineral spirits make me sick as well, try to get a hold of some pro acryl newish. Very similar to oil washing but none of the fumes, I really love it
Man I don't know how you got through that many white space marines with nuln oil. I would have lost my mind long before that.
I was younger and had more time. Also, it doesn't help that I used the atrocious white scar for the edge highlights instead of the almighty AK White
@@Zumikito AK White FTW. Changed my painting when I bought this paint. IMO the best from what I tested, namely GW (bleh), Vallejo and Army Painter. AK Gen3 hits it out of the ballpark in comparison. Thx for another cool vid, Zumi. Love the content. Love the accent. Love the skill. And the beard :)
@@Zumikitooof I would not have had the patience for working with the GW whites for that long. idk how it compares price-wise outside of my country but i switched to using the Golden 'so flat' white after struggling with miniature brand white paints and haven't looked back! still has the white paint coverage issue but it's so much smoother that i don't mind
finally i know what this is, saw it some times but it wasnt explained, and i never got behind it
thanks zumikito, thanks
The thinned acrylics method doesn't have to stain, if you keep a second damp brush at hand. Apply thinned paint, mess up, whisk away excess immediately, continue application, etc.
Same with contrast paints. I use them for my white Lumineth and don't have that problem in that extent.
You can also avoid some of the nastier bits of oil washes, vapors. Odorless definitely does not mean safer..because it is still putting those vapors out.
I mean, a "shade" is still good if you want the panels made darker,
It is called a "Shade" rather than a wash.
I use a lot of Agrax because I like the "dirtying" effect.
Love your insights Professor,
Very interesting! Thank you!
My wash of choice was Windsor & Newton Chestnut Brown. It would dry almost like a film and with a wet brush you could erase it more or less when you made a mistake or it flowed where it was not supposed to. Made those Deathwing terminators doable with the repaint and texture issues you mentioned.
Thanks for sharing. I'm embracing oils more and more however there are a number of things that people need to consider when using oil washes from the type of brush to the long drying time and the fact you need to varnish after if you want to paint over the model at all with acrylics (highlights, fine detail etc).
Yoooo I saw your space marines on a few forums good shit yo! I’m glad I stumbled on your channel
I used AK panel liner, already mixed and gloss the mini first, that makes the flow better and the clean up easier, then seal it all in with Matt varnish when done.
Thank you so much for this
Hi, I have a useful tip for you. This will make your panel lining even cleaner. Use a fine drawing pen. Use it as if you were using ink. The sharp tip doesn't leave as much color.
Love the berserk art on the wall and that ruined my space marine video is one of my favorite videos. I watch it all the time lol
Great minis, great advice, great beard: Zumikito.
God like advice! Bought and now living life! TY (P.S. Love the t-shirt! :))
I always thin GW washes and use multiple coats, still takes longer but less coffee staining. Can also rub off excess with your finger before it dries
So, something I think you should keep in mind is cleanup. If you use a clear coat over your base layer, you can add details then use a thinner on a q-tip or other tool to clean up the lines some. That's a technique used more on bigger stuff like gunpla. You shouldn't have to repaint over your nuln oil to get the crisp lines. I only do that if I'm taping something and the paint bleeds under the tape.
I find that Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color work just as well out of the bottle and comes in either Grey, Black or Brown.
do you still need to apply a varnish before hand, or does tamiya panel line accent colour work fine over bare paint?
@@Akhaandir If I'm not applying washes on the model such as nuln oil I apply smooth varnish (glossy) before hand to allow ease of flow for Panel line. Is all about how smooth the surface, otherwise it may leave uneven thickness of the panel line.
An alternative for the "Space Marine Panel Lining" option that I like to use, that has a similar capillary effect (but admittedly I don't think it can be re-activated), is just a mix of acrylic ink mixed with airbrush thinner. Works great with black ink for panel lining, and I also often use it with white ink if I want to create "energy lines" in stuff like Necrons and my Votann (that I then go over with a bright/fluro colour thinned in the same way for that 'pop')
I only ever tend to use washes if I'm slapping it over either the whole model (Agrax on my Death Guard, Nuln on Necrons etc) or just solidly over a whole colour.
I love oil washes! However, I've transitioned to using them for weathering instead of shading. The reason is if I have to clean up the weathering it's easy to accidently mess up the shading that I did before hand. The compromise I ended up with is to use contrast paint for the shading.
oh! Zumikito is still alive !!! 😄
great video, best quality. if you don't mind, i wanna ask, what lenses did u use for making this video? thank you 🙏🏻
Just go over the recessed areas with a clean wet brush immediately before applying the pin wash. For acrylics anyways. Make it flow like magic
Perfect, need to get some oil paint. Have you tried other thinners beside mineral spirit?
This is how I paint my 30k Death Guard. I use a mix of black and brown oil wash for the recesses and then use sepia, burnt umber, and brown for weathering. Helps me create a lot of contrast with minimum layering. Do you use a gloss varnish first?
You just saved my life, i love you
I've been using oil washes for a while now and they're great, not just black either, sepia and umber are awesome too. I have one tip, a quick coat of gloss varnish makes that capillary action even better, then a coat of matte when you're done which you're going to need anyway as oils are pretty shiny.
Before doing the panel lining use a gloss varnish on model to help flow even more. tag your lines with the oil, clean up anything after drying with white spirits then toss a matte varnish on model.
Looks cool will use this in future. If I do want the dirty coffee stained look on lets say orks, would it be better to use the oil wash or stay acrylic in your opinion?
You can definitely use regular washes/shades to stain something, if you like the stained look. You can also always just thin the shade and lessen the effect.
In my case I stain orange with seraphim sepia, because making orange or yellow darker typically needs brown (never black) and it's easier to just heavily stain it and let gravity do the work than layer the worst covering paints over and over.
A tip though, be sure to have mixing balls in your washes, otherwise they might get glossy and this is ESPECIALLY prevalent in Biel-tan green, which goops up hard and needs not just two mixing balls but stirring as well to fix it. If you do happen to occasionally gloss up your ork skin, you can use diluted white/wood glue applied with a brush to make it matte again.
This is an amazing painting tip. However, one quesiton, will any old oil paint and odorless thinner dot he trick, or do I need to use what you used in the video? Thanks in advance.
Only thing you should add is that it is very beneficial to put a sealant on before using the il wash...and that makes it a little less conveniant. Respectively you should batch-paint to be efficient.
Satin varnish the miniature first. It will make it flow even better and will protect the acrilic paintjob from the spirit. Matt (or whatever) varnish after. Nice vid, as always.
Why not to use matt varnish directly instead of satin?
Satin - or gloss - has a smoother surface, making the wash glow better.
@@alexandergagarin7105 Matt is OK. But satin boosts the effect of the already low surface tension of the mineral spirit.
Do you have to gloss coat to use them on miniatures to help with flow. Or just a Matt spray
I take Daler Rowney black ink and thin it 50/50 with flow improver and use that for panel lining myself, dries faster and the capillary action is just as good. Better for batch painting, not quite as good for display work.
This is gonna make shading my tanks so much easier. I can already tell.
I really like the finish on your minis is that gloss topcoat or semi gloss?
Im a noob. But I found some cheap-o oil colours a few months ago .Bought some spirits. And now I have tried it. And oil-washes for filling lines etc is realy THAT easy.
I like to use tamiya for gundams but lately instead of gloss coating my minis to use an enamel was I've been just mixing up some acrylic ink with Flow improver and getting great reulsult the ink keeps the colors nice and saturated and the flow improver helps keep the service tension down keeping it the cracks and crevasses
what ratio of flow improve to ink do you use?
Going to try this out on my Vior'la Sept T'au!! as the clean up of my darkened nuln oil is killing my motivation fast.
I do this with normal washes too. I do want to start to use oils though for the ease of correction
using oil washes, you should spray a saturn varnish, you will get a better control over where you place the wash then seal it with ak's 3rd gen matt varnish
I knew about oil wahes for NJM. I haven't used them because is a bit expensive, but one day I'll make the purchase.
Great tip! BTW do ypi have any tips how to remove old paint? I have few metal miniaturea form 90 ans want to strip off old paint and paint again?
The reason GW will never sell oil washes is due to the solvent needed. The biggest factor in the design of GW paints is avoiding toxicity. They want a family-friendly product. The only dangerous chemicals they sell is things they can't avoid, like glue. You can drink GW paints if you really want to. (Not recommended, but safe)
Dude thank you! I was wondering how I'd make my snowy necrons.
I think for black lining space marine work. Buying Tamiya Panel line Accent Color will do a great job.. but for any other application the oil wash is prob better.
An interesting way is knowing chemical properties. I would try priming or painting the entire model with white Tamiya lacquer spray paints. Then use a a lacquer sealant. For the wash you would use something that is enamel or acrylic based because when you use the enamel thinner to remove the excess it won't eat into the lacquer layer. To remove lacquer you would use isopropyl alcohol 90%+.
Good video on oil washes.
Good ol ink washes were my favourite before GW scraped them for the modern alternatives. You could really water them down and still get a good result, that just bled into all the crevices like we see in this video.
Cool thing is you can use other colors than black to do this. Like I use white for my plasma coils and a light blue for my white armor.
Your "I Ruined My Space Marines" was the first video of yours that I watched :)
As a scalemodeler,that's trying to up my game and learn new stuff,it's always surprised me that miniaturepainters rarely use a regular pinwash.( in the clips I've seen so don't come at me😅) something that's considered common practice in the scalemodeling world. And oilpaints are so versatile,you can use them to pretty much everything,washes,staining,filters (painting ofc😅) etc etc,and they'll last a lifetime. Really enjoying to learn more miniature painting skills,I'm definately gonna apply some of the stuff I've learnt next time I'm gonna paint a ejectionseat or pilot. So keep up the good work!
So here's something even better that use for my chaos Knights abandon black, but add a tone of water too, get the nice shading, goes into cracks good and isn't oily looking
I use Tamiya panel liner for this and it's amazing.
White paint has generally excellent coverage and in fact white pigment is used to increase opacity in other colors.
Do you need to clear coat varnish the model before oil wash? or will the mineral spirit not affect the acrylic layer paint?
Good question , I was hoping an experienced painter could answer that. In het other video he referees to he told that all miniatures were varnished with gloss before he applied the oil wash so I think that is needed to let it run smooth in the recesses. And I also think when reactivating to correct or clean up with the thinner you can damage the first layers of paint.
I really like the oil washes but I like to use the Gloss versions of Citadel Washes. I don't often use the classic version either...
yeah, I hate the basic washes but the gloss ones are really good, especially over a gloss varnish
Someone in one of the comment sections once suggested Panel Liner from Gundam model kits. They're alcohol based (IIRC) versions of Nuln Oil and other colors. They run in the thins like your suggested oils, and you can clean them off with a cotton tip soaked in rubbing alcohol if they get in odd places. Artis Opus also just suggested "Pro Acryl NEWSH" which is an acrylic based medium that reacts like oil washes, apparently.
Oil paints are very underrated. I only use it as "technical" paints. I mixed my own collection of oil paints. Some paints are great for what you showed, others can be used as filters, others can be used for making your mini look worn, you can do so many things with it. The last thing I learned was how to edge highlight with oil paints, at it is Amazing!!!! Also what could be done is nmm, but this is something for the future. Painting with oil is easy if you use certain techniques. But I think painting nmm is actually not that easy with oils. So I will need more practice with it. But once you get the hang of it, it is amazing. Blending with oils is so satisfying. I think high quality oil paints are amazing. They are expensive at first, but you can paint with it for a much longer time, because it doesn't dry out that much if stored correctly and you will always need just a little bit colour, because the coverage of oil paints are much better (if you don't use transparent colours)
old trick , add a tiny amount of dish wash soap to reduce the friction coefficient. You can also gloss seal it before washing .... like you have to with oil washing.
I've been getting similar results with ProAcryl Newsh. It acts like a retarder and makes the acrylic paint take FOREVER to dry. You can easily wipe away the misses. Would love to see you try your hand at it in a future video!
Something to note about oil vs. enamel washes: because of the nature of how they dry, with oils being an oxidation reaction, and enamels being an evaporative process, oils can be cleaned up within about 24 hours, usually. Enamel washes don't carry the same limitation, as they will usually reactivate if you wet them with mineral spirits, even weeks later. It's not usually a big deal, but it is something to bear in mind if you're using them in the middle of your process, instead of at the end.
I clear coat varnish, then use nuln oil gloss. I then use mr hobby premium top coat flat. If you want deeper black panel lines use Tamiya panel line accent color.
I love nuln oil to dirty up and darken up the models to give a grim dark feel, and you never use it on yellow as everyone knows. You can also thin it down to pin wash it quickly and easily.... just add some flow improver and medium like you did for the oil wash... which I use and works fine. I also use oils as well too, but its SO MUCH easier and faster when doing a fast paint sections (like 10-20minutes to paint only), just grab some nuln, a drop of flow improver, maybe some water and boom I can paint for 5-10min without needing to worry about clean up or mess.
Important to note for any new painters that this video is about panel lining with washes, so if you want the wash to dirty down things then both of them are still good. Oils are pretty much superior but less convenient washes.
Do you only recommend black oil paint for this or would you recommend different colors for different armor colors?
I've not got round to testing yet, but lets just through outher there that oil whoite and yellows are more opaque than the darker colours - could be worth a try
Mini painters can learn a lot from scale modelers painting techniques, watch some armour painters and see the techniques they use ad apply them to your mini's. i've been doing this for years, Satin varnish before applying oils protects the paint and allows much easier clean up
little bit of alcohol and acrylic does the same thing. Touch and it spreads only in the cracks quickly
I really like the GW washes for glazing NMM though :D They dry fairly quickly and you can layer them fast compared to thinning a paint to oblivion. I also love it for TMM shading. Silver with coelia greenshade looks dope :D
By the way - what I really like for pin "washing" are different manga pens. You can buy manga "brush" pens and they are really neat! You can put the "wash" exactly where you want and the rest can be cleaned with your fingers. I love them :D Maybe not as quick as actual washes, but they are accurate AF :D
Tamiya panel liner & X20A thinner - airbrush colour, panel line, wipe down, paint details. Tabletop marines an hour per model!
If you want to be fancy and make more dynamic shadow washes buy your self tubes of Payne's Grey (dark grey), Indigo Blue (dark blue) and Raw Umber (dark brown).
In nature shadows on clothes, equipment and armor are not black. They are a lack of light in an area. So for a space marine with of warm colors on it like browns, orange, reds and yellows a mix of Raw Umber and mineral spirit looks great. For cold tones like blue, greens, greys and violet use the Indigo Blue.
If the miniature is white as in this example I'd take a two little blob of Payne's Grey and Indigo Blue.
That gives a shadow wash with a slight blue tint and looks amazing on white and light grey armor.
If you want to get even fancier you can leave out the Payne's Grey and mix shadow washes from various dark colors (browns, blues, greens) to make super dynamic washes for different parts of the miniature. When you add a tiny bit more of say a brown than the others the wash will have a brown tint and so you can vary the base mix to suit different parts.
The money you spend on a good starterset of oil tubes or if you can get them on a sale will save you money compared to using the GW crap. Buy artist quality paint - they have more pigment in them and will last even longer. Use make up sponges to remove any overspill.
Have you tried using newsh from monument hobbies for shading? Im really curious as to see how it works compared to an oil wash as i would like a less poisonous alternative to oilwash because of my curious kids 😂
I'm a Raven Guard painter. What would you recommend to use for the opposite? Would it literally just be white oil paint?
Will using alcohol erase the acrylic paint it's applied over, and is it advisable or absolutely necessary to varnish before using oils and alcohol or white spirit?
it's not alcohol, so no. If you are fast and gentle enough, varnish is not a must, but if you wanna be really safe or if you paint a larger batch, go ahead and apply it
How do you feel about the Tamiya Panel Liner Accent Color? It looks like it flows the same way and doesn't require any mixing.
It's too thin for my liking, but usable. I like really defined edges on my marines, so I usually require thicker consistency
do you gloss varnish before throwin on the oil? the mini yo were using didn't look like it but sometimes hard to tell
What about Vallejo washes?
I use them and I like them but what is your opinion on them?
Hi: love oil washes:
But how do I avoid the grainy appearance when using black?
I use the same I gradients as you
The trick is to mix it really really well
It might be mentioned in other comments, but it's better to use a gloss coat first, to protect the base coat, and to help the wash flow even better. it's safer one you clean the wash with spirits
My technique is a little different than most, primarily because I use model master / testors enamels.
But I've never thought of Nuln Oil and Agrax Earthshade as panel liners. As covered in the video, there are better options.
I dilute the GW washes a further 1:1 with acrylic thinner because I've always found them to be too intense as-is (and I don't have brightly colored armies to begin with, I have panzer grey Tau and Crimson Fists!). Even diluted, you're still dealing with water-strength surface tension, so I treat them as more of a brush-on "dip" than an actual wash or panel liner. In the places I use them this way, they work.
It's really all about the result you want, and adjusting your technique accordingly. Don't expect from GW paints something they can't (or shouldn't) do.
you should note that a varnish layer is important to use before applying and removing the oil paint (which is in your other video). does it matter though if it's gloss or matte varnish?
I gloss varnish before the process and matte varnish after. Helps it flow into cracks and not leave stains
Internet myth. You don't HAVE to gloss before applying oil. If your basecoats are relatively smooth (you didn't gob the paint on or stipple it on) the paint should flow relatively quickly and easily. I never varnish and I have no issues.