How to PROPERLY dimple a barrel & install a Set Screw gas block
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- čas přidán 26. 07. 2024
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How to PROPERLY dimple a barrel & install a Set Screw gas block - Zábava
I'll jump in before any "drill press" comments pop up. 'Shouldn't you use a drill press?'. This really depends on the type of jig...
The newest SLR Rifleworks 5-spacing jig, as seen in this video, is not so much intended for use in a vice/press, in fact it's intended more for use with a hand drill as shown in this video. The drill bushing is more than long enough to facilitate proper alignment so that is a non-issue.
Some jigs, like the KVP jig for example, are designed to function in a vice and work with a press.
Regardless, both methods when using the proper jig and proper process will result in an equally functional end product.
Speaking of vises what is that you're using in the video? I need one and would like to make sure I get a good one.
@@mabs9503 This is a Irwin 5" rotating vice that I bought from Lowes, but here is a quick and easy Amazon link.
amzn.to/2UwXzGk
@@Highjak86 you most certainly can use a drill press with the SLR jig. I have been using it for a year now. Use a drill press vise to hold the Jig.
@traxxastrucks36 I never said you couldn't, I simply said the SLR is designed more for use with a hand drill as shown here. Reading comprehension. You can, but it's not ideal since the flat faces don't line up horizontally with a vice. If you have one of the older ones yours may line up in the vice with the flat faces in the vice, but the new ones as shown here do NOT.
@deputy dog No, but substantial heat from a torch is required to remove the screws when Red has been used. More heat than I like to apply.
YES! I was the one who recommended the cobalt bit. I'm famous!
You the man!!! Best bit upgrade ever.
A good way to avoid using a torch on set screws is, use a soldering iron to heat the screw. It will get the heat where you want it and limit the amount of heat you put in.
I prefer flame thrower. To each his own
@@michaelsorenson3887 I mean smoke if you got em I guess. But sounds painful and expensive.
I know, old video, but excellent for first timers and the point about not shoulder indexing is something that isn't always brought up.
I've had great success dimpling with a spotting bit or drill mill with the same angle as your set screws tip so you get a nice conical index with the set and dimple.
Spotting bit or drill mill like any you'd see used with a lathe or mill. Many are coated in tialn or altin for some extra hardness and lubricity for cutting steel.
Rad.
Thanks for uploading this! Just finished my first build and i wasnt sure if i needed the second dimple or thread lock. Much appreciated!!
Great video. All manufacturers should just dimple them in house.
Sounds like a good idea, but you never know what gas block your customer wants to use and they have different set screw locations
@@rf9078 with all the standard measurements the ar platform has, the gas block should be standard as well
@Dan Trebune you must be a mechanical engineer. No wonder .
Manufacturers can't know what gas block you want. Also, imagine if every manufacturer did everything that all of the high price point manufacturers did. Then every AR would be expensive.
Faxon gas blocks have 3 set screws. Just to make it even more annoying
Dude... by far the best video on this topic I've seen on the net. Thanks very much for putting this out there!
Whew...good thing I ordered a kit and they dimpled it (a year or two ago just snapped it together last weekend) 😎 thank you for clarifying the use of the dimple etc.
Great stuff man! Thanks for taking the time to put this video together. Many folks don’t understand how this is done properly.
Christian Grest Thanks for watching!
That is super slick. Just doing a new build and the barrel is NOT dimpled. Looks like I need this little jig. Thanks. Very helpful.
I've been needing to pick one of these jigs up. Hadn't seen this one with all the different variations of set screw holes. Now I know which one I want👊👊
I love the SLR jigs and I'll soon have my 4th... maybe 5th actually... my .750" is one of the really early models and it only has two spacing distances where the new ones as seen here have five... and I'd like to have the five spacing version too.
I always make a point to coat the bare metal of the dimple with something. Typically a blueing pen or something that will stop corrosion.
Just a point.
chris willis red loctite which you put on the set screws acts as film and prevents corrosion on the bare metal that's dimpled
@@br00klyngreek13 red located will do you no good. The barrel gets to hot and will turn it to ash. Use Rocksett for anything on the barrel.
@@TheUnholyLordClownz Unless you're shooting full auto...your barrel isn't going to get 450 degrees sir....I build ARs and AKs for a living, and I have customers that are up 14k rounds through their ARs I built for them...red works perfectly
dang, I can't believe I never came across these jigs when building my AR. Thanks for sharing though defiantly need one!
Defiantly!
Excellent video. 10/10. Knowledge acquired, thank you.
Excellent video!
great vid and I hope more follow this. I personally gave up on set screw gas blocks years ago and went to pinned.
I've heard a massive amount of people say the same thing. I've never had a problem after building a ton of rifles and pistol length ar's. And I run my guns hard in every aspect and have never once had an issue.
Great video/instruction - thank you!
nice video. I have stopped doing both dimples as well, if the "build" might come apart again down the road. I picked up a bench top drill press from HF and mounted it rite on the corner of my work desk. i also recommend replacing the OEM set screws with Fastenal replacements that are 1 size longer, it gives the driver just a bit of extra depth to transfer TQ without stripping. with a good dimple they stick out just a hair but make it SOOO much easier if you ever have to take it apart down the road. if a set screw is sitting in a dimple it gets the longer screw.
Militaristics I dig the idea even though I’ve had no issues so far uses the stand screws. Shoot me a link!
Great Video! Thanks!
Very informative video - thanks.
great video very informative thank you
Very well done step by step video!
AZBADBOYz Thanks for watching!
Thanks! Insightful vid!
Loctite 246 has been perfect for me so far!
Indeed, those set screws are tough. For my first upper build I bought a BA barrel and SI gas block. The barrel was not pre dimpled and the gas block secured with set screws, and I decided I was not comfortable winging it on my own so I went to a gun smith asking them to dimple and assemble the upper for me. They said dimpling was not necessary and proceeded to assemble the upper by simply tightening down the set screws. I was skeptical this would be enough, so when I got home I went to make sure the set screws were as tight as they could be and I twisted the tip off my Allen bit. I’m still not 100% confident the gas block is secure as it should be , though I fired it and seemed to perform fine. Lesson learned next time I will either buy a jig as shown or just buy a barrel that is pre dimpled.
Very good video if you’re going to dimple. Faxon advises against dimpling their barrels. They suggest a 3 set screw gas block.
Nice thanks for the video, I just bought an SLR dimpling jig for my first build and was wondering how the numbers on the front correlate with the center to center dimensions of the holes. Also thanks for the tip on the cobalt drill bit, will be picking that up this week to do my install.
Glad it was helpful! That was the goal.
Hi, thank you for clearing up the threadlocker issues I have been going through. I am about to install a new low pro gas block. I have loctite 271 but did not really like the max temp it could withstand. I ordered rocksett but I have been seeing so many different opinions. I am going to go with your recommendation. Thank you again for your help.
I would love to see a how to install of pinning the gas block. I see your gas block looks like a SLR block, and has a starting cutout for being pinned. I'm interested in a similar set up.
Two things, knurled head setscrews for permanent gas block install, they bite in to the barrel. Second, with rocksett it’s water soluble, but you want hot water, like boiling or a heated ultrasonic cleaner, it works really well if you turn on the ultrasonic as well. 15-20 min max will usually get it. You’ll see the grey compound leak out.
Shawn Hinck I’ve personally never seen any advantage to the knurled over standard tapered, but I’d be open to hear or read some compelling evidence on that one. I believe a proper dimple or dimples is about 99.9% more important than the tip of the screw itself.
Never tried boiling water on Rocksett, I’ve tried the hottest I could get from the tap, but when it takes 5 seconds just to apply shock I don’t see a need to go as far as boiling water or getting out an ultrasonic cleaner.
You rock thanks 😀😀😀👽🍀
Loctite 2422 is a 650 degree stable blue threadlocker that I have used on most of my gas blocks and it has never let go.
Same here. Dozens of AR's and 12 years or so later...... Not a single failure with blue Loctite
242 is the one Colt uses
Nice video. I think some of those gas blocks need to be backed off the shoulder to make room for a possible plastic handguard cap.
Just knocked this out with the same jig. Definitely necessary to dimple. Be weary of buying drill bits that are carbon or carbide at 5/32, but have wide tips. That will prevent you from using the jig!
love the video, great resource. however, maybe i missed it but i didnt seem to notice you mentioning how deep the drill should go into the barrel, obviously not too light or too deep, but what "feel" do you think in depth is good for the purpose of securing the gas block?
Great video, and very in-depth! Do you worry that if direct blows are what gets the Rocksett to come loose, then dropping the riffle will therefore also cause it to come loose?
Very good tutorial. I had an idea how it was done, just not the details.
RK Harm24 Thanks for watching, Randy!
New drinking game - take a shot for every mention of Brownells
If I was to but 1 out of the 4 jigs which one wood be best to start with if I'm only doing one dimple on most simple ARs
Have you ever tried vibratite
Great video brotha
I would of degreased the threads on the set screws and the gas block and also added a little bit of rocksett on the gas block threads also
And finish it of by also staking the set screws.
I know this is a old video but figured I throw it out there, don't be scared to jam the gas block as far back as you can. Its not going to effect air flow at all but it will help the gas key seal up a little better with the tube being as far back as possible.
does the jig stop the drill bit? how do you know how far into your barrel you are drilling?
Sir, I bought a Whiye Label Armory complete upper and they use un-knurled set screws, so I bought SOLGW knurled set screws.
If I don't dimple, should I go knurled or un-knurled?
Thanks for this video!
How deep should dimples generally be?
I am thinking of buying a blem barrel. It was dimpled in the wrong place. Also it is raw metal. Would the Dimple effect the integrity of the barrel and can I Duracoat it to seal the barrel? Thank you and great vid!
I install the stripped carrier when installing the gas block/gas tube in order to check the tube/ key alignment. Any contact is a nogo
if my set screws are 10-32 X 1/4 do i still use the 5/32 drill bit?
loctite recommends 222 purple up to 1/4” diameter and 242 blue for 1/4”-3/4”. The breakaway torque for the purple is 53 in-lb and 250 in-lb for the blue. Knowing that I only use purple on all but some of the larger screws like a #10 (.18” OD). As for temperature rating both the purple and blue are good up to 300F.
I am a believer that heat is the #1 killer of barrels and I never want to shoot my weapon to the point that my barrel is close to 300F.
With red being rated to a break away torque of 325 in-lb with a temp rating of 450F, I personally believe red is overkill and so is dimpling both set screws. One set screw is going to anchor that gas block especially when it is loctited.
Blue loctite for high heat applications is a no from me
Just watched a upper build from Criterion barrels and they finger tightened the gas block screws. I personally thought..."isn't that going to shoot loose?"
one and done
Soak your rocksett in boiling water for about 20 minutes to remove
I've heard that Kroil penetrating oil can break a Rocksett lock.
If so, not sure how long to wait after applying.
Anyone know if this is true?
Thanks in advance.
(Great video, BTW. Much appreciated.)
My buddy and I went shooting last Saturday like always, he was trying a 7.5 he just finished, and thr forst shot his gas block exploded. It eas a KE arms adjustable gas block sold at out local gun shop, I jave never even heard of amything like this happening, but the gas block sheared it half. I assume thr metal wasmt heat treated or was really low quality, thr good news is neither if us was hurt, but I was on his right and the larger peice flew over my head. The only part we were able to find (the larger piece landed in the snow) was the bottom part with the set screws and it fell just in front of the bench
New2Kendo Yeah, no good. Lol.
Do you have part number to get dimple jig?
Great video. What is your opinion of clamp on blocks? Should I avoid those?
They arguably have some pros when you start getting into the rabbit hole of 'accurizing', but they much more difficult to align properly and reliably. Negligible difference in accuracy. Set screw is preferred.
@15:15 use the index set screw from the jig to aling front (dimpled) hole. Snug the rear screw to hold it in place. Then remove the set screw and put in the front screw in and tighten normally...??
Great video! One question, do you think is is worth test firing before using the locking compound, or just go ahead and lock it down right off the bat? Obviously assuming that everything is aligned as you said.
JediKnight3420 Assuming the gas block was drilled properly by the mfg (which can be inspected before install) and you use a dimpling jig, there isn’t much need to as we know the alignment will be proper.
Loctite 246 is the correct application here.
How deep is too deep to where the barrel should be considered ruined?
A1/A2 front sight bases and low profile gas blocks don't hit the barrel shoulder. There should be approx 0.025" gap to account for the steel hand guard cap if the gas port was drilled to Mil-Spec. If it is shoved all the way back to the shoulder the port will be misaligned and not be installed correctly.
What’s the weight on that barrel
Not sure what the material of it was but the bit that came with my kit would not cut into my barrels at _all_ so definitely look into buying more bits.
Yeah, pick up a cobalt bit. I linked to the one I use in the video description. That'll cut through anything.
@@Highjak86 Yea, and I think the jig you have with the guide for the drill is a lot better than the one I have without. Would definitely recommend getting one like yours. I lose a bit of material from my jig every time I use it.
Always use lube on cobalt bits and slow speed.
All gas blocks should be set off the shoulder of the barrel about .030 inch.
Barrels are made so a standard two piece handguards will fit on them if the gas block is against the shoulder the handguard cap will not fit.
Not true. This is entirely manufacturer specific. Barrel shoulder and gas block lengths vary. And who is installing two piece drop in hand guards with a low pro gas block? No one with a brain.
What about staking the set screws the same way you would the carrier key screws?
You can do so, but using Rockset or Loctite will hold a low profile GB in place for good. So it's purely peace of mind
been building for over a decade without issue.
I believe you need to boil whatever you've rocksett to properly break the bond. Hot water being key.
Rockset degrades to a putty when submerged in boiling water for 20-30 mins.
Rosco is one barrel company that predimples their barrels but only the first one and they are both not deep or big enough. They need to be enlarged and slightly deepened for maximum holding and grip power. For a plinker or range toy they might be fine, but not for a HD rifle that gets run hard and that you bet your life on used for self defensive purposes.
Question...I used blue Loktite on my gas block. I want to put an adjustable block on there...How do I break it loose?
kempoguy Blue is medium strength and should come off just by turning with a wrench, but you can use a little heat if needed.
Lets talk about that CD rail in the background.....
Haha! That video is going up tomorrow morning.
Ive stripped the allen key holes on my set screws and now i have to drill them out
Probably stay away from tools.
@@robertkorn lol
Or you could use a dern torque wrench🤷♂️.. On the topic of removing set screws with rockset, I have had great luck with boiling water, either setting it in a big boiling pot or spooning boiling hot water over to the screws and letting I sit for a few minutes. Both methods have never failed me and it really doesn’t take any time at all. But I also installed them with a torque wrench and they’re not over torqued.
What about clamp on gas block? Is it still necessary to dimple
FUMANDO MOTA No. There is no reason to dimple a clamp on gas block.
So that first hole in the bottom of the barrel came like that? U didn't have to drill that?
Sir gas block ke all hole size mm me bataiye
Anyone have a .875 SLR they are no longer using?
Is pinning the gas block necessary if you dimple the barrel? Do you only dimple and not pin your gas blocks?
I do not and will not pin a properly installed set screw gas block. If done correctly there is no need for this step unless you're possibly just looking to torture test a gun in full auto mode until it starts on fire and destroys itself.
11/64 okay for bit size?
Should be fine. I know some dimpling jigs are setup for 11/64". I personally don't like to go any larger than 5/32" though - just my personal pref.
Hi, what is the name of the company that made the dimpling jig?
SLR
I have the SLR .750 jig and have used it on 4 barrels with 0 issues. But I recently started a new build and needed there .625 jig. When I got it I was excited to dimple my barrel and much to my surprise it would not fit on to the barrel. I Emailed SLR and they sent me another .625 and the same thing happened. Now they won't answer my emails. Have you had any fitment issues with there jigs ?
is gas tube all the same standard length size
no depends on the gas system your running there are 4 types pistol.... carbine .....midlength..... and rifle
Just a Regular Guy Don’t forget intermediate length as well. There are at least 5 at this time.
@@Highjak86 yeah but I never see that regularly, usually for me I see that in custom stuff
Too bad these manufacturers haven't discovered torx-head screws....they'll take way more torque. Maybe I'll find my own and replace the allens when I go to do these?...
What are you using to rotate the barrel?
He's slipping it off of the Geissle Reaction rod to rotate it
@@MostlyPeacefulCombatVet I looked into the tool thanks for your input
@@17valleyforge76 not a problem bud 👍
Man i hate to say it, but after two nights of going to town with the Bosch bit that you recommend, at least on an Aero CMV barrel, it doesn’t cut it. How long would you say you should have to spend drilling? I’ve spent probably a total of 45 minutes (drill spinning) trying to get this dimple done and it’s still not quite there. This is with the SLR jig. Drill for about 10 seconds, stop, check, ten more seconds, rinse repeat... there’s a dimple there now but it’s not quite finished. I finally broke down and ordered a carbide bit.
How long, with a good bit, only a minute or two. If a cobalt bit is not cutting then you have a bad bit.
Try putting your drill in “Forward”
Who sells them barrels pre dimple?
FUMANDO MOTA Many. Check the barrel description and details when buying.
so your torqueing the gas block screws as tight as you feel you can get away with. what about deforming the barrel in that spot? as it sits now, probably not so much. but after the 3rd mag dump in a row, when the barrel softens up a bit??? just food for thought.
Should torque to one half turn before stripping threads out
Real Avid vice is the best
I drench everything in red loctite 272 and when I need to take it apart, I just unscrew it, from set screws to castle nuts, even on cheap optic mount threads. Again, I've never had to do anything but unscrew, never needed heat or a special tool or a hammer. Am I missing something? Am I using loctite wrong?
Literally, all it does for me, is make it a LITTLE harder to unscrew...
It should definitely take a torch to remove if you have more than just a tiny dab. Not sure what's going on there lol
You need to de-grease the hole and the set screw and let it dry out before using the Loctite. It won’t stick to an oily surface
were can I get that jig
The store.
SLR Rifle Works website
What again is the device in the vise that 's holding your upper assembly ?
Nick J Brownells lower receiver vice block.
Have a receiver block, you seem to have something you pull out and rotate 90 degrees. My lower receiver block fits the mag well and does not allow for any rotating.
@@nickjm37fordel1 it's a gessiele reaction rod.
Yeah, Geissele Reaction Rod.
@@killdozer_93 Thank you , I'll check it out :-)
I shot 50 rounds out of my brand new AR and then shells stopped ejecting. after tons of consulting friends and the interwebs i almost gave up. I just inspected my ar and noticed the gas tube and block is sliding forward up the barrel. I'm really hoping thats why my shells were not ejecting and also why i had to mortar my rifle just to get the bolt back out of the chamber. so i guess i need to figure out how to line up that gas hole with the tube and tighten it down?
Buy and use a alignment/dimple jig as shown in this video. It takes all the guesswork out of the situation and makes it simple and straightforward. They are typically $31- $35 on average. After you get one you will have it for future builds.
@@JohnDoeEagle1 I appreciate the info! I actually found that it already had a dimple. The issue is that the shop or whoever built the rifle didn't tighten anything down very well. I lined up the gas block and dimple with the screw and re-tightened it after adding some rockset to the screws and now it's firing and ejecting great!
@@kotaspremiere2931
Awesome, good to hear!
How necessary is doing a dimple? It’s not something a little bit of thread locker could do?
I realize now how silly that is.. Only took 8 minutes for me to realize the heat from it would turn even red thread locker to dust..
I use my milling machine.. So is that not PrOpeR?
Utilizing a drill press was addressed in the video...
Got the jig, the cobalt bits.. wasn’t doing anything. Read to buff off the nitride where the dimples will be, did that, used another new bit, and this shit is NOT working! Barely a dimple after pushing down till my arms were shaking, a little penetrating oil. Barrel is ballistic advantage 4150 cmv QPQ finish. I don’t know what else to use? And I have 5 barrels to do.
50calprepper Well, you watched me drill right through the nitride on this video. I’ve done so several times on nitride barrels with this same bit. Did you use a drop of oil?
Highjak86 Yes, I used a cutting oil from work. Don’t remember what brand
50calprepper What brand bit?
Highjak86 A Cobalt from Lowe’s... I finally got one barrel done. It just seems way too hard to drill? Idk why I’m puzzled. I mean so hard to get drilled, I considered sending them off to have have done.
Watching you drill again... mine doesn’t cut nowhere near like that! Maybe I need to try a different bit? I think the one I got was Dewalt.
The Rocksett requires boiling water to release the bond 😉
especially running suppressed they get hot? cold ammo has lower explosion and suppressors dissipate heat across a greater mass. however fully auto and high rates of fire increase rate of sustained heat. meanwhile blue locktight is bad. red locktight is bad... purple is ok at 300degree for light cold ammos anything with extreem power 45acp, 10mm, 233wild, 30/06, 308win, id recommend something with a 1500+ temp rating... best is heat lock at 2k degrees. so this is good for securing barrel nut, gas block, supressor/compensators ect... where things back in the grip or buffer housing ect purple is ok, everywhere else on exterior weapon dress basic locktight is ok.
Why is it that most ar15 manufacturers just put one dimple on one set screw? Why not do both set screws?
This is explained in this video.
Varying distance between set screws for different brands of gas blocks
Nail polish will remove loctite
why only 1 dimple for 2 screws?
This is addressed in this video...