Your turbo is probably fine. All journal bearing turbos have some play. You need to know, from experience, how much is acceptable & what isn't. You put long needle nose pliers on it. With that leverage, you would have play in a brand new dual ball bearing turbo! If there was so much play in it that it wasn't making boost, you'd have oil in the intake & in the exhaust. Not a light film but some standing oil. Your compressor wheel would have touched the compressor. The turbine side would be wet with oil. The exhaust would smoke blue not black. And you will ALWAYS have negative manifold pressure sitting still reving it. It's in vacuum. You need to put it under load driving & roll into the throttle & it should start making boost. A cracked intake, boost leak in piping, bad map sensor, or corrupt tune file are places to look. Does it have stock injectors & map sensors? If so, put the stock tune back in it & see if it's okay. Basic troubleshooting applies here. Not "pull the turbo & exhaust manifold." You could have just removed the V band clamp & pulled the turbo from the exhaust manifold by the way. Call your tuning company. Call some other big name X3 performance companies. Diagnose the problem instead of guessing. Datalog it & verify what it's doing.
Following... new to sxs world.. thanks for sharing... good informational vid...hope you can get her figured out... will be waiting for your next vid... by chance could the blow off valve need adjusted... was it a aftermarket bov... herd people say that it was adjusted to tight to let it work as it should.. again new to the game..??
No the BOV is not adjustable, you can change the spring in it but only comes with one that you can change I left the one that was in it but beside that it’s just a RPM BOV and when I was revving it up when I installed it it was whooshing out, but I’ve been checking out everything I can find on Bad Turbo’s and it all the same, #1 burning oil so check oil levels, #2 lost of power, # 3 supper charger sounds, #4 no boost, #5 blue smoke coming out of exhaust, #6 oil coming out on the air intake side, #7 play in you prop shaft from side to side and in and out is more serious and if you got some of these things chances are you got a bad turbo, but make sure if you got a no boost that you check your waste gate and all your clamps and do a pressure test before pulling your turbo ok don’t want no one wasting money or time
I run a polaris and not a can am, but I have seen on the can ams where the intake plenum will split at the seams. Especially when adding boost. Check that maybe. It has happened the the sxsblog guys multiple times.
Ya I look at it , thanks for that do appreciate it, but my tune is for 17.5 of boost and the stock plenum can take a little bit north of 30 psi I think like 32 psi and they split in 2 but could of been a possibility for the lack of boost thanks again Dude for the comment, at least I know that’s there’s people that care, so thanks for that!
No that’s one thing I didn’t check was the BOV after I saw the turbo play that was it too much play in that turbo it’s bad, so I stop looking was kind of bummed 🙁 so took the turbo out and called it a day!
@Can-AmX3Dude well hopefully you get it figured. Back when I played with turbo cars I know even a brand new turbo had some play in it. Either way I will keep watching to see what happens!
My 2017 X3 turbo R is using oil and makes a noise that sounds like a vibrating heat shield when I let off the pedal and decelerate. It has about 3300 miles on it.i suspect it's turbo noise. Would that cause it to burn a quart of oil on a 3 hour ride? It seems to run fine.
The noise is probably the drive line needing grease, the oil check your air filter remove it and see if you got oil in your air box and check the smoke coming out of your exhaust pipe to see were it going, let me know !
I used to be a mechanic with Caterpillar working on small turbos on skid steers, excavators, etc... and can say that ...they just fail. do all the oil testing you want, but at an RPM of 5000-7000rpms, your turbo is spinning on average 150,000rpms and can go higher than that under more load or WOT. Those little high speed bearings inside the housing take a horrible beating each time you turn the key. Even with clean air and oil all the time. It could take one little bit of machining flake or contaminate at the time the turbo was cast or the engine was assembled to start the snowball effect of bearing wear from new. A proper warm up (especially in the cold) and leave the engine idle a bit more before shutting it down each time will help with coking the turbo and prevent premature wear. Each time you shut your engine off, your turbo keeps spinning for a few seconds being starved of oil pressure. So the cooler you can make your turbo before shutdown, the better. Turbo's are a necessary evil sometimes. I've seen them last 20,000 engine hours and i've seen them last 20. Suck to see this in a expensive toy though. I understand that pain as my truck's turbo went on me a few years ago to the tune of $3800
Thanks for the comment and greatly appreciate your info, and seeing my video and the play I got with your experience, would you say my turbo is seen it’s better days and is was about to really fail at any time?
@@Can-AmX3Dude Yeah, any play you have in the turbo is bad, but when you can physically see it shake back and forth like when you grabbed it with the needle nose pliers, those ceramic bearings are just done and needs to be replaced/rebuilt. It was most likley on its way out for a while. I don't think you are asking more than what the turbo is desined for, it just sounds like you got the short straw on this one. The black soot on the inside of your filter is most likely exhaust gasses or vaporized coked oil that have bypassed seals and backed into your filter housing under pressure. There doesnt look to be damage to the impeller fins from what i can see, so it wasnt detonation. Since there is internal wear in the bearings of the turbo, there is a chance that you may have some light contamination in the engine oil. Your pickup screen and oil filter would have caught this, but its well worth your while to change your engine oil after the new turbo unit gets installed, Then change just the filter again after the turbo break in period to check for additional contaminates. Again... turbos are great.. untill they ain't.
Thank You for you quick response really appreciate it, cause I'm no pro when it come to turbo or engine internals, but still timid do to take advice from people that have the knowledge an know how so thanks again
@@Can-AmX3Dude Yes I do. Same whine as yours, and negative boost on my programmer, when revved. Plus, my BOV dosent make the slam noise. Ive just ordered the KWI leak check kit for testing the pressured circuit. Have had codes 0234, 0239, and 0239.
@@Can-AmX3Dude Its pretty weird. I have all new RPM silicone hoses and clamps. All tight. This problem started when engine was stock, then grew worse, and now no boost at all. Limp mode and engine light. Codes 0234, 0238, and 0239. Took it to my dealer, said their "Canam diagnostic tool wouldnt recognize my ECU".......yet my programmer does....lol
If your thinking of just going to 200 hp don’t go the way I did you can just get a tuner by Dino Jet and a Whalen’s Speed for $750.00 US dollars and that’s it don’t need no add on just a toon, if that’s all you want because that’s all you need 200hp is good run 91 octane and won’t blow belts cause if you go more then 200hp all problems start and the big money 💰 start’s
@@DanielGarcia-zz9eg if you really have to big power and you got lot’s of money go big, and remember won’t be reliable for long rides and will blow belts if you don’t take break and let it cool off but if just want a bit more and not worry about it, ya 3R tune is we’re you should stop that’s my opinion but your choice
@@DanielGarcia-zz9eg I went with the 3R tune cause just couldn’t have a guy with a stock Turbo RR be faster then me 😝 and was way cheaper to put a 3R tune then buying a new turbo RR 😂 so that’s what I did
@@Yielar1 ya it looks like that, like I took out the turbo and checked everything and saw that It had play in it but that is normal and don’t know if I had cranked the psi on the waste gate actuator wrong but when I put it all back together I got the KWI boost leak tool and it found 2 leaks and then tried it again and it was working fine!
Your turbo is probably fine. All journal bearing turbos have some play. You need to know, from experience, how much is acceptable & what isn't. You put long needle nose pliers on it. With that leverage, you would have play in a brand new dual ball bearing turbo! If there was so much play in it that it wasn't making boost, you'd have oil in the intake & in the exhaust. Not a light film but some standing oil. Your compressor wheel would have touched the compressor. The turbine side would be wet with oil. The exhaust would smoke blue not black. And you will ALWAYS have negative manifold pressure sitting still reving it. It's in vacuum. You need to put it under load driving & roll into the throttle & it should start making boost. A cracked intake, boost leak in piping, bad map sensor, or corrupt tune file are places to look. Does it have stock injectors & map sensors? If so, put the stock tune back in it & see if it's okay. Basic troubleshooting applies here. Not "pull the turbo & exhaust manifold." You could have just removed the V band clamp & pulled the turbo from the exhaust manifold by the way. Call your tuning company. Call some other big name X3 performance companies. Diagnose the problem instead of guessing. Datalog it & verify what it's doing.
Thanks for taking the time to explain in detail and it’s really helpful and appreciated thanks
Following... new to sxs world.. thanks for sharing... good informational vid...hope you can get her figured out... will be waiting for your next vid... by chance could the blow off valve need adjusted... was it a aftermarket bov... herd people say that it was adjusted to tight to let it work as it should.. again new to the game..??
No the BOV is not adjustable, you can change the spring in it but only comes with one that you can change I left the one that was in it but beside that it’s just a RPM BOV and when I was revving it up when I installed it it was whooshing out, but I’ve been checking out everything I can find on Bad Turbo’s and it all the same, #1 burning oil so check oil levels, #2 lost of power, # 3 supper charger sounds, #4 no boost, #5 blue smoke coming out of exhaust, #6 oil coming out on the air intake side, #7 play in you prop shaft from side to side and in and out is more serious and if you got some of these things chances are you got a bad turbo, but make sure if you got a no boost that you check your waste gate and all your clamps and do a pressure test before pulling your turbo ok don’t want no one wasting money or time
I run a polaris and not a can am, but I have seen on the can ams where the intake plenum will split at the seams. Especially when adding boost. Check that maybe. It has happened the the sxsblog guys multiple times.
Ya I look at it , thanks for that do appreciate it, but my tune is for 17.5 of boost and the stock plenum can take a little bit north of 30 psi I think like 32 psi and they split in 2 but could of been a possibility for the lack of boost thanks again Dude for the comment, at least I know that’s there’s people that care, so thanks for that!
@Can-AmX3Dude no problem! Also did you check the blow off valve/ deserter valve?
No that’s one thing I didn’t check was the BOV after I saw the turbo play that was it too much play in that turbo it’s bad, so I stop looking was kind of bummed 🙁 so took the turbo out and called it a day!
@Can-AmX3Dude well hopefully you get it figured. Back when I played with turbo cars I know even a brand new turbo had some play in it. Either way I will keep watching to see what happens!
@@stuhr28 appreciate you watching and thanks for your comment makes it feel like I’m not just talking to an empty universe 😆
My 2017 X3 turbo R is using oil and makes a noise that sounds like a vibrating heat shield when I let off the pedal and decelerate. It has about 3300 miles on it.i suspect it's turbo noise. Would that cause it to burn a quart of oil on a 3 hour ride? It seems to run fine.
The noise is probably the drive line needing grease, the oil check your air filter remove it and see if you got oil in your air box and check the smoke coming out of your exhaust pipe to see were it going, let me know !
what is the phone app that your using to look up error codes? looks cool
It be EVO code shooter plug in and connect to app, you can do tunes check code and a lot more
If anyone has turbo experience and same problem or had this problem in the pass, please let me know what you did or what was wrong?
I used to be a mechanic with Caterpillar working on small turbos on skid steers, excavators, etc... and can say that ...they just fail. do all the oil testing you want, but at an RPM of 5000-7000rpms, your turbo is spinning on average 150,000rpms and can go higher than that under more load or WOT.
Those little high speed bearings inside the housing take a horrible beating each time you turn the key. Even with clean air and oil all the time. It could take one little bit of machining flake or contaminate at the time the turbo was cast or the engine was assembled to start the snowball effect of bearing wear from new.
A proper warm up (especially in the cold) and leave the engine idle a bit more before shutting it down each time will help with coking the turbo and prevent premature wear. Each time you shut your engine off, your turbo keeps spinning for a few seconds being starved of oil pressure. So the cooler you can make your turbo before shutdown, the better.
Turbo's are a necessary evil sometimes. I've seen them last 20,000 engine hours and i've seen them last 20.
Suck to see this in a expensive toy though. I understand that pain as my truck's turbo went on me a few years ago to the tune of $3800
Thanks for the comment and greatly appreciate your info, and seeing my video and the play I got with your experience, would you say my turbo is seen it’s better days and is was about to really fail at any time?
@@Can-AmX3Dude Yeah, any play you have in the turbo is bad, but when you can physically see it shake back and forth like when you grabbed it with the needle nose pliers, those ceramic bearings are just done and needs to be replaced/rebuilt. It was most likley on its way out for a while.
I don't think you are asking more than what the turbo is desined for, it just sounds like you got the short straw on this one. The black soot on the inside of your filter is most likely exhaust gasses or vaporized coked oil that have bypassed seals and backed into your filter housing under pressure.
There doesnt look to be damage to the impeller fins from what i can see, so it wasnt detonation.
Since there is internal wear in the bearings of the turbo, there is a chance that you may have some light contamination in the engine oil. Your pickup screen and oil filter would have caught this, but its well worth your while to change your engine oil after the new turbo unit gets installed, Then change just the filter again after the turbo break in period to check for additional contaminates.
Again... turbos are great.. untill they ain't.
Thank You for you quick response really appreciate it, cause I'm no pro when it come to turbo or engine internals, but still timid do to take advice from people that have the knowledge an know how so thanks again
Body i have 22 canam leak oil from the air box du you no was the problem in that case
How much oil if it’s just a bit in below the air filter they all do that just wipe it clean and check your oil level 95 % of the time it will be ok 👍
What if it’s a lot of oil in the air box and rough idle
@arielsmith7007 it normal to have oil in air box, rough idle? Do you have engine codes ?
Negative map readings at idle are normal
It’s normal to have - boost when you just rev up ?
Hi Sir. Did the rebuilt turbo do the job ? I think mine is bad at just 39 hours.....
Why do you think yours is bad ????
@@Can-AmX3Dude Yes I do. Same whine as yours, and negative boost on my programmer, when revved. Plus, my BOV dosent make the slam noise. Ive just ordered the KWI leak check kit for testing the pressured circuit. Have had codes 0234, 0239, and 0239.
@@paulturner7261 what codes?? And a boost leak will make that noise!!
@@paulturner7261 there is always a negative boost unless you got the real gauge set up
@@Can-AmX3Dude Its pretty weird. I have all new RPM silicone hoses and clamps. All tight. This problem started when engine was stock, then grew worse, and now no boost at all. Limp mode and engine light. Codes 0234, 0238, and 0239.
Took it to my dealer, said their "Canam diagnostic tool wouldnt recognize my ECU".......yet my programmer does....lol
Where u get the code reader from
Evolution Power sports
If your thinking of just going to 200 hp don’t go the way I did you can just get a tuner by Dino Jet and a Whalen’s Speed for $750.00 US dollars and that’s it don’t need no add on just a toon, if that’s all you want because that’s all you need 200hp is good run 91 octane and won’t blow belts cause if you go more then 200hp all problems start and the big money 💰 start’s
@Can-Am X3 Dude so don't go pass stage 4 because adding extra 65hp on stage 5 will cost u alot in repairs.
Got it.
@@DanielGarcia-zz9eg if you really have to big power and you got lot’s of money go big, and remember won’t be reliable for long rides and will blow belts if you don’t take break and let it cool off but if just want a bit more and not worry about it, ya 3R tune is we’re you should stop that’s my opinion but your choice
@@DanielGarcia-zz9eg I went with the 3R tune cause just couldn’t have a guy with a stock Turbo RR be faster then me 😝 and was way cheaper to put a 3R tune then buying a new turbo RR 😂 so that’s what I did
Did you ever figure it out?
Yes it was a boost leakage!
@@Can-AmX3Dude Just a loose hose clamp?
@@Yielar1 ya it looks like that, like I took out the turbo and checked everything and saw that It had play in it but that is normal and don’t know if I had cranked the psi on the waste gate actuator wrong but when I put it all back together I got the KWI boost leak tool and it found 2 leaks and then tried it again and it was working fine!
@@Can-AmX3DudeWhat was loose, where was the leak??? that would help a lot for anyone who might have this issue…
@@riolmoore5418 thanks for your question, it was the hose clamp at the inner cooler outside to the turbo!
Whos that kid i hear
What?