Great video.. but one thing everyone should know about 2017 and newer models is that the solenoid WILL NOT be activated when the vehicle is first started up. The hubs will stay locked in 4x4 until the initial warm up time is met. Usually 1 mile of driving before the TCCM will activate the solenoid(depending on temps). The solenoid has a constant power feed with ground side activation from TCCM. This can cause misdiagnosis if not understood. Cheers
Good video, for anybody do this for the first time, make sure you torque everything properly instead of driving it in with an impact to prevent premature wear on parts
Wish I watched this before having the dealer replace my IWEs. Great video. Not saying that it wouldn't have taken me a week of on and off wrench turning, but definitely doable.
They are up to TSB 20-2028. static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10171859-0001.pdf Going in tomorrow morning for the 3rd time. First one at 15,000 miles, 30,000 miles and now at 63,000. Hoping they still cover under powertrain warranty.
The reason I suggest the solenoid replacement is because I’ve had several vehicles demonstrate random vacuum fluctuation when driving on bumpy roads. Discovered via analog vacuum monitoring during road tests on repeat visitors experiencing iwe issues.
Hey there Aaron. 2006 here. Just replaced passenger wheel bearing It was worn. Directly after. Im getting iwe noise from driver side It’s that intermittently grinding on the highway mostly. Was hopi g to not replace the iwe until im more tests as they had been working fine I had replaced the check valves a few years ago along with the updated solenoid. Trying to diagnose
I had the same problem with my Raptor. It was the IWE check valve. Just something I noticed that you didn't point out. They are known to go bad. The revised version has a blue housing.
Great video but I am experiencing one heck of an issue and my truck is now back in the shop 3rd time in 3 weeks for the issue that mechanics can't seem to fix/diagnose correctly. They are either missing a key piece of the equation, or this is one of those situation where they aren't getting the right fix. Guess we'll see what happens with this weeks shop visit.
For those with older trucks like my 11 Expy, um yeah... Those locknuts will not come out like that since the ends of the threads on the tapered joints are rusty. You need to torch those to melt the plastic lock stuff and get new ones at Ford. You'll never get that upper one free nor the stabilizer one. Speaking of, be prepared to replace the stabilizer link since you might as well just cut it off.
When I took mine apart I noticed a hot spot on the axle and was almost dry of grease so I cleaned everything up repacked with grease and it started working properly
thank you so much my guy this video just saved me alot of hard time. ive been stumped on this for two weeks and now i can fix this sum bitch proper like. legit tech your amazing
Replaced the solenoid and check valve today, went to plug in the hose line to the wheels and the plastic line crumbled when I touched it (UGH!!!) Since this weather is artic temps I'm going to let a Ford dealership replace all the vacuum lines to the IWE's.
Mine does it on the passenger side, does it about daily now dealer said they could only get me in early February. Was just on the highway at 75 and both started to do it, engaging 4wd makes the noise go away but back to 2wd a few seconds later it’ll slowly come back
Thanks for this video dude, I appreciate people of your ilk. Couple question I have regarding vacuum and IWE issues as it relates to a grinding/vibration noise while in 2wd but goes away in 4wd. WHAT is making that noise exactly. Are the splines/gear teeth stripped? Also, is the IWE splines a softer metal than the splines on the axle and hub.. so the IWE would strip out before the axle and/or hub? Curious, thanks again!
@@nopenottoday42 it was a bad IWE actuator. To know, pull the vacuum line off the actuator behind your wheel, tuck it out of the way and then test drive it, if the noise is gone it's a bad actuator or youte not getting enough vacuum
Thanks for the vid! Bout to go out and check mine. Not getting a grinding or ratcheting but a constant HUMM that goes away bin 4WD, similar to what someone else described below. Adding the an audio track with that grinding or ratcheting noise might be helpful if at all possible. Thanks again for a great vid --subscribed.
I have a 2010 that has made this sound for probably 4,000 miles or so now. Will I have to replace the Axles or wheel bearing hub as well? Just wondering if those splines would be damaged too? Thanks
So I just tested this on my f150. Once I jacked up the truck, I’m 2wd the axle still spins. While in 4wd the wheel and axle do not move. This means the IWE is bad correct?
I have that annoying grinding noise in my 2015 Platinum and its really bugging me I'm just worried after looking online that it could be my front differential? I cant tell. I changed the Hub bearing assembly and nothing which leads me to believe it could be the IWE actuator? also when I engage 4x4 it still has the grinding noise, I know some sources say that the noise should go away when you engage 4x4 which raises the question if it is the IWE actuator?. I don't know what to do i bought the truck used and I'm hoping this is not going to turn into a money pit. I forgot to mention i did change the check valve and checked the vacuum lines.
Anyone know why I have the intermittent grinding sound. I checked the actuators with a vacuum gauge, each holding pressure. Checked my lines, each pulling pressure. This was yesterday and then i put it back together and I didn’t have any grinding for the rest of the day. Today I drove to work, heard the grinding, checked pressure and everything was good again. Could it be my cv axle?
I have got a grinding/humming noise while driving, which goes away when I switch to 4WD. I have done my fair amount of research and I am starting to think that this is the culprit. However, when I took it to the Ford Dealership, the vacuum was holding in all the places from the solenoid to the hub. I left it with them and for some reason they could not get the sounds or vibrations to happen while the technician was driving it. I am thinking about doing this my self and seeing if it will fix my problems. Any thoughts or ideas about where to start with problem solving would be appreciated. Thanks for the video, as it has been SOOOO helpful and confident building for me as I tackle this project.
The dealer might not be running it long enough for the sounds or vibrations to occur, especially if your truck is a 2017 or newer, since the solenoid is not activated until the warm-up interval is completed.
I got a grinding noise only once in a while tho like twice a year I thought it was dragging something. I replaced the check valve assembly today and realized it's already the revised one on the truck. Solenoid next you think?
Hi Arron. Great video! Very helpful. Any ideas on why my truck makes a humming noise while driving in 2wd and then when I switch to 4wd it goes away? I have to do that a few times before it goes away completely. Then when truck shuts off then back on I have to do the same process over again. Can the iwe get stuck? I’m assuming vacuum is working because sound eventually goes away. Please any suggestions! Thanks and keep up the great videos
I just did this with my cv and hub. Put it all back together and double checked gears went together and there's now a clunk when I turn. Any ideas? The gridning is gone but the clunk is loud.
2015 navigator 4wd, makes grinding noise on driver side Wheel bearing replace, believe it’s the iwe, but when I jack up front while running and spin tire it does t grind, is this because there isn’t any weight to make it grind
I have a 2012 F-150 Lariat 4x4 CrewCab. I am having that same problem when stopping on the brakes. I recently had the front rotors resurfaced and added new pads. The noise is still there. The mechanic says the rear rotors rotors and pads looks good. What should I do next?
Quick question I check my whole system is working properly. I marked the axles I move the truck forward and they don’t spin reverse they don’t spin. But if I go on a drive I notice they spun. Is that normal? Do they disengage and engage once in a while during normal driving?
My 2017 F150 suddenly began the chattering noise. I drove directly to the dealer and the technician changed the IWE actuator hubs on both sides. However, I still have the chattering, not as persistent at moderate speeds, but also at interstate speeds. I made another appointment at the dealer. So, after more research, I decided to change the check valve, following instructions. On the test drive, the chattering returned at moderate speeds and interstate speeds. After a brief stop back at home, I went in another drive, and didn’t hear the nose. Is it possible the vacuum system needed to reseal itself after I changed the check valve? I’m baffled.
This truck has the old style white/black Vacuum Check valve going to the vacuum solenoid if it has not failed it will and your IWEs ad hubs will be destroyed again. You need to replace with the new style blue and white vacuum check valve. Also no reason to disconnect the sway bar nut.. You said you were going to demonstrate with the hand vacuum pump on the new IWEs and you did not.
@@SuperSEXYINESS are you saying yours was holding vacuum but the iwe actuator was actually broken? Mine holds vacuum but when I put in drive and record with a phone, the axles still spin causing that noise. I jack up the truck with truck on, spin by hand, no axle movement.
You don’t not need to take off anything other than the top knuckle nut…then just turn the hub and the axle pops right out. Way too many videos of guys taking off all of these unnecessary things. If you remove the tie rod end it’ll cost you a realignment. 🤦🏼♂️
Great video.. but one thing everyone should know about 2017 and newer models is that the solenoid WILL NOT be activated when the vehicle is first started up. The hubs will stay locked in 4x4 until the initial warm up time is met. Usually 1 mile of driving before the TCCM will activate the solenoid(depending on temps). The solenoid has a constant power feed with ground side activation from TCCM. This can cause misdiagnosis if not understood. Cheers
Thank you
Very easy to follow, clear communication, good lighting, no fluff. Thanks for making this video - great job!
that's my uncle
Good video, for anybody do this for the first time, make sure you torque everything properly instead of driving it in with an impact to prevent premature wear on parts
Thanks for the great video. I believe you save me from taking the front differential down for a complete overhaul.
Bro thanks a lot!!!!! You Don’t understand how much I appreciate this video
Wish I watched this before having the dealer replace my IWEs. Great video. Not saying that it wouldn't have taken me a week of on and off wrench turning, but definitely doable.
Was it covered by warranty?
Excellent video, clear and precise, anyone can easily do it themselves following this.
Same problem with my F150, easy fix, thank you for making a video which helps a lot of people.
Thank you for this vid! There's at least one TSB (TSB 19-2252) for this issue but yet the dealer acts like they've never heard about it.
They are up to TSB 20-2028. static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10171859-0001.pdf
Going in tomorrow morning for the 3rd time. First one at 15,000 miles, 30,000 miles and now at 63,000. Hoping they still cover under powertrain warranty.
I will be doing this job on my truck this weekend, once I figure out where the leak is. Thanks Brother!
Torque spec: 6 ugga chuggas
Thanks for the video. These seem to fail too often.
Yes sir!
I know it might seem crazy but ALWAYS replace the check valve and I usually recommend replacing the solenoid too when you replace a iwe.
The reason I suggest the solenoid replacement is because I’ve had several vehicles demonstrate random vacuum fluctuation when driving on bumpy roads. Discovered via analog vacuum monitoring during road tests on repeat visitors experiencing iwe issues.
any chance you could assist me with my IWE Issues? sounds like you know a bit about em
Great video. I believe this is what most mechanics would do....absolutely ignored all the proper torque specifications and just use power tools. 😢
Dude, thank you so much for this video.
Awesome job on the video! Great camera angles and showing each step.
very good info! very helpful video and thanks for including links for parts!
Wow… nice instructional video!!! Thank you!!!
Great video, I sent my truck for the 2nd time today due to the same noise. My warranty is about to expire so, I will save your video. Thanks.
Just went out on mine this week. Thank you so much for posting!!! Saving Me so much money.
You make it look so easy!
Hey there Aaron. 2006 here. Just replaced passenger wheel bearing It was worn. Directly after. Im getting iwe noise from driver side It’s that intermittently grinding on the highway mostly. Was hopi g to not replace the iwe until im more tests as they had been working fine I had replaced the check valves a few years ago along with the updated solenoid. Trying to diagnose
thanks bro i found out my iwe driver side needs replacement
Awesome video thanks, this will certainly help.
Very nice video thank you very professional
Good video for me, thank you very much thank you 🙏
Excellent video! Thank you!
Excellent video brother thank you so much
I had the same problem with my Raptor. It was the IWE check valve. Just something I noticed that you didn't point out. They are known to go bad. The revised version has a blue housing.
Yup....literally a $20/2 minute job.
Awesome video thanks for posting
Good video!! Earned a follow
Love you man , and happy birthday 🎉
Great video, love the torque specs, just an ughaduha or 3
Great video but I am experiencing one heck of an issue and my truck is now back in the shop 3rd time in 3 weeks for the issue that mechanics can't seem to fix/diagnose correctly. They are either missing a key piece of the equation, or this is one of those situation where they aren't getting the right fix. Guess we'll see what happens with this weeks shop visit.
I will try it, tomorrow
Ur cool as heck. Thank God for you
Great video, thank you
Thank you very much
For those with older trucks like my 11 Expy, um yeah... Those locknuts will not come out like that since the ends of the threads on the tapered joints are rusty. You need to torch those to melt the plastic lock stuff and get new ones at Ford. You'll never get that upper one free nor the stabilizer one. Speaking of, be prepared to replace the stabilizer link since you might as well just cut it off.
When I took mine apart I noticed a hot spot on the axle and was almost dry of grease so I cleaned everything up repacked with grease and it started working properly
thank you so much my guy this video just saved me alot of hard time. ive been stumped on this for two weeks and now i can fix this sum bitch proper like. legit tech your amazing
Mine came out in two pieces, I was surprised it held a vaccum, but didn't disengage all the time with that vacuum applied
Yeah I've done my share of these😏cool video👌
Nice! They really aren’t to bad! Thanks bud
Be careful that the teeth mesh with the hub before you start tightening the actuator down.
Literally everyone except fordbossme skips that step.
Replaced the solenoid and check valve today, went to plug in the hose line to the wheels and the plastic line crumbled when I touched it (UGH!!!) Since this weather is artic temps I'm going to let a Ford dealership replace all the vacuum lines to the IWE's.
How do people work on their vehicles if they are not covered in rust? That is half the fun of it. I can't believe how easy this looks.
Mine does it on the passenger side, does it about daily now dealer said they could only get me in early February. Was just on the highway at 75 and both started to do it, engaging 4wd makes the noise go away but back to 2wd a few seconds later it’ll slowly come back
I'm only having noise when the system is in 4A. When it's in 2H there's no noise. What is causing that issue?
Thanks for this video dude, I appreciate people of your ilk. Couple question I have regarding vacuum and IWE issues as it relates to a grinding/vibration noise while in 2wd but goes away in 4wd. WHAT is making that noise exactly. Are the splines/gear teeth stripped? Also, is the IWE splines a softer metal than the splines on the axle and hub.. so the IWE would strip out before the axle and/or hub? Curious, thanks again!
Did you ever solve that hum issue, and if so what was it? I have the exact same problem on my 2013.
@@nopenottoday42 it was a bad IWE actuator. To know, pull the vacuum line off the actuator behind your wheel, tuck it out of the way and then test drive it, if the noise is gone it's a bad actuator or youte not getting enough vacuum
Great Video, you should work for Ford training division.
After disassembling the front end like that is an alignment necessary?
Thanks for the vid! Bout to go out and check mine. Not getting a grinding or ratcheting but a constant HUMM that goes away bin 4WD, similar to what someone else described below. Adding the an audio track with that grinding or ratcheting noise might be helpful if at all possible.
Thanks again for a great vid --subscribed.
Did you find your issue? I have the same thing
Did you ever find the issue with the hum? I’m having the same problem on my 2023. Goes away in 4H.
Why didn’t you use a torque wrench to reassemble, also blue lock tight on the ball joint and tie rod end ?
I have a 2010 that has made this sound for probably 4,000 miles or so now. Will I have to replace the Axles or wheel bearing hub as well? Just wondering if those splines would be damaged too? Thanks
Great video. Makes me think I could do this. One question: where have you placed that jack? What did you lift by?
Torque specs would have been nice
Good video, is there a new link for the assembly on 2015+? When you click the link it says unavailable
So I just tested this on my f150. Once I jacked up the truck, I’m 2wd the axle still spins. While in 4wd the wheel and axle do not move. This means the IWE is bad correct?
I have that annoying grinding noise in my 2015 Platinum and its really bugging me I'm just worried after looking online that it could be my front differential? I cant tell. I changed the Hub bearing assembly and nothing which leads me to believe it could be the IWE actuator? also when I engage 4x4 it still has the grinding noise, I know some sources say that the noise should go away when you engage 4x4 which raises the question if it is the IWE actuator?. I don't know what to do i bought the truck used and I'm hoping this is not going to turn into a money pit. I forgot to mention i did change the check valve and checked the vacuum lines.
Anyone know why I have the intermittent grinding sound. I checked the actuators with a vacuum gauge, each holding pressure. Checked my lines, each pulling pressure. This was yesterday and then i put it back together and I didn’t have any grinding for the rest of the day. Today I drove to work, heard the grinding, checked pressure and everything was good again. Could it be my cv axle?
Nicely done!!!
FYI anyone in the salt road states follow these instructions but add a little bloody knuckles and alot of cussing
I have got a grinding/humming noise while driving, which goes away when I switch to 4WD. I have done my fair amount of research and I am starting to think that this is the culprit. However, when I took it to the Ford Dealership, the vacuum was holding in all the places from the solenoid to the hub. I left it with them and for some reason they could not get the sounds or vibrations to happen while the technician was driving it. I am thinking about doing this my self and seeing if it will fix my problems. Any thoughts or ideas about where to start with problem solving would be appreciated. Thanks for the video, as it has been SOOOO helpful and confident building for me as I tackle this project.
The dealer might not be running it long enough for the sounds or vibrations to occur, especially if your truck is a 2017 or newer, since the solenoid is not activated until the warm-up interval is completed.
I got a grinding noise only once in a while tho like twice a year I thought it was dragging something. I replaced the check valve assembly today and realized it's already the revised one on the truck. Solenoid next you think?
Is an alignment necessary after this procedure? thanks
What are the torque specs for the axle nut, ball joint nut, and sway bar nut? Thanks!
Hi Arron. Great video! Very helpful. Any ideas on why my truck makes a humming noise while driving in 2wd and then when I switch to 4wd it goes away? I have to do that a few times before it goes away completely. Then when truck shuts off then back on I have to do the same process over again. Can the iwe get stuck? I’m assuming vacuum is working because sound eventually goes away. Please any suggestions!
Thanks and keep up the great videos
Same, any update?
That's your iwe
I just did this with my cv and hub. Put it all back together and double checked gears went together and there's now a clunk when I turn. Any ideas? The gridning is gone but the clunk is loud.
2015 navigator 4wd, makes grinding noise on driver side
Wheel bearing replace, believe it’s the iwe, but when I jack up front while running and spin tire it does t grind, is this because there isn’t any weight to make it grind
I have a 2012 F-150 Lariat 4x4 CrewCab. I am having that same problem when stopping on the brakes. I recently had the front rotors resurfaced and added new pads. The noise is still there. The mechanic says the rear rotors rotors and pads looks good. What should I do next?
Quick question I check my whole system is working properly. I marked the axles I move the truck forward and they don’t spin reverse they don’t spin. But if I go on a drive I notice they spun. Is that normal? Do they disengage and engage once in a while during normal driving?
I put 2 new hubs and 2 new dorman iwe's and it's worse than it was before. Now the noise starts as soon as i start driving
What kind of grease do you use, please respond back, thank you!
Does the f250 (2012) have the same system. I only see the IWE mentioned on the 150s
My 2017 F150 suddenly began the chattering noise. I drove directly to the dealer and the technician changed the IWE actuator hubs on both sides. However, I still have the chattering, not as persistent at moderate speeds, but also at interstate speeds. I made another appointment at the dealer. So, after more research, I decided to change the check valve, following instructions. On the test drive, the chattering returned at moderate speeds and interstate speeds. After a brief stop back at home, I went in another drive, and didn’t hear the nose. Is it possible the vacuum system needed to reseal itself after I changed the check valve? I’m baffled.
Someone in the comments here stated that it may take a couple miles for the on board computer to adjust.
My 04 has it
great video Quick question, I ntoced you loosed the sway bar? I've seen a few videos not do that. Does it just make it easier?
You don’t need to, there is plenty of room to do it without that step
Torque values?
This truck has the old style white/black Vacuum Check valve going to the vacuum solenoid if it has not failed it will and your IWEs ad hubs will be destroyed again. You need to replace with the new style blue and white vacuum check valve. Also no reason to disconnect the sway bar nut.. You said you were going to demonstrate with the hand vacuum pump on the new IWEs and you did not.
Any chance you attempted to repair the plastic oil pan leak on the 2.7 ecoboost? I saw one guy made his own fel pro style gasket.
Yes sir here is the how-to I made
m.czcams.com/video/kSWIucuW9Fc/video.html
How come I keep coming up with a different part number for the 2015 model? 7L1Z-3C247-A. It says the HL1Z that you have linked is for 2016 and up?
7L1Z-3C247-A is for before 10/12/2015, any truck production daae after that uses HL1Z-3C247-A
Do 2wheel drive trucks have this too? Or just 4 wheel drive?
4 wheel
How much does this cost?
Mine hold vacuum but they still make noise and 4x4 not working any ideas
mine was same way, then i took driverside apart and the iwe had split in half
@@SuperSEXYINESS mine doesn’t loose any air
@@SuperSEXYINESS are you saying yours was holding vacuum but the iwe actuator was actually broken? Mine holds vacuum but when I put in drive and record with a phone, the axles still spin causing that noise. I jack up the truck with truck on, spin by hand, no axle movement.
Will the iwe cause the 4wd to kick out?
Yes
Clark Scott Perez Gary Allen Susan
what a load of garbage. ford should be ashamed
Such a shit system. Mine failed at 18k. Unacceptable. My titan at 140k works fine and Tahoe at 120 works fine. First and last ford I’ll ever own.
Oh ya? Mine are at 11 years old and 235,000kms and still work.
Mine just failed at 60k.
Yes Ford designers are the worst idiots, they should be featured on the "Idiots at Work" Channel.
mine failed at 97 k
mine failed intermittently at 93.3k 2017 ford f150
You don’t not need to take off anything other than the top knuckle nut…then just turn the hub and the axle pops right out. Way too many videos of guys taking off all of these unnecessary things. If you remove the tie rod end it’ll cost you a realignment. 🤦🏼♂️
Can anyone else confirm this?
I guess this guy doesn’t believe in torque specs
How many times can you say “go ahead in one video lol. Annoying
Is this process much different from a 2010 f150?