1953 IBM Model A Electric Typewriter Repair Part 1
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- čas přidán 20. 05. 2018
- In this video I go over the device and theory of operation, and fix the power switch, key lockout mechanism, and single character carriage advance/backspace.
Timestamps:
3:52 - recap of unfilmed work
6:18 - removing cover
11:44 - underside
12:33 - key lockout mechanism problem intro
15:58 - theory of power transfer
21:25 - shift lock
22:47 - tab feature
25:27 - spacebar problem intro
28:17 - carriage return problem intro
29:28 - carriage tour
33:08 - disassembling power switch
35:29 - cleaning power switch
37:42 - fixing key lockout mechanism
38:12 - fixing spacebar problem
43:15 - first power up after fixing spacebar and demo
47:28 - reinstalling power switch and second power up
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/ @markfurneaux2659 - Věda a technologie
Ah jeez, hope your health gets better soon man
The color control, as you say, would move the ribbon. With a single color ribbon you can spread the wear between top and bottom, but you can get two-color ribbons (half black, half red).
I used to type on these for $.10 / page for my parents who were both court stenographers. We owned two of these and had a typewriter repairman come to the house for regular service. You are right. 1950's - 1970's. Best machines ever. 100 wpm easily.
I really want one of these. I have a 1951 Royal, But I do find the non selectric IBM Typewriters very cool
The lever on the left side looks like an impact intensity adjustment. If I recall correctly, you could adjust how hard the hammer hit the ribbon/paper - especially for multi-part forms (with carbon paper), etc. A manual typewriter may have a positioning adjustment for a similar function (the force on the manual was all in the fingers). If you had a multi-part form, you had to "type harder" :) Thanks!
Tim B this is correct, i recall this from typing class 25 years ago.
The rounded thingy that holds the typebars is called the basket :) The Shifting is called "Basket shift"
I love your videos (tech and explanations), so I am sad to hear that you have not been well, I wish you the best
(not copy count, but paper thickness. eg paper vs card, but would also used for two pieces of paper with carbon in between)
The lleft control that has you baffled is the number of copies that increases the pressure to the paten so the keys hit harder to make multiple copies...
Ayy hes back.
I hope you get well soon mate :)
I've found sewing machine oil to be better for lubrication on things like this. It doesn't degrade and become sticky like WD40 will.
A good way to resurrect old stuck crap is a mix of 20:80 sewing machine oil (mineral oil) and turpentine. Soak stuff and dry it off. I got this tip from old teletype operator, and i've resurrected two teletypes with this method - works perfectly. Point-lubrication of parts after soaking is needed though.
I have a new appreciation for modern word processors.
cant beat mechanical keyboards
The left dial 0-10 is the key touch sensitivity control.
"Howdy folks" Yesssss.....
Your layman terms are rather well chosen. Verbosity is of key importance. Like so many videos like these, one should consider getting them archived on magnetic tape for conservation.
These are famous for the bottom rubber roller that controls striking the typebar to the platen dry up and will not grip the plastic trip levers. FEDRON will help rejuvenate the rubber roller.
In so far as the carriage being returned and not moving forward after that, we used to use multiple rubber bands attached to the left paper feed and a post next to my desk to force the carriage left whilst typing (until the IBM guy could fix it)_ It was very strong as we used a 8 copy freight bill with carbon paper between the copies. --First job memories 1966 --
Yes a new video!
He's back!
I typed all my papers in college on this typewriter, its a fine unit. The instrument on the left is for adjusting the strength of the key strike; I’m trying to repair my own machine and am having the same problems as in this video - after about 30 years of storage, the keys don’t reach the paper.
I have a similar machine, I have removed the belts from the motor, because when I turn the machine on, I can hear the electric hum but the motor does not spin. To turn the pulley wheel that is on the motor by hand when the machine is off is difficult. Any suggestions on my next steps would be great.
The "hammers" is called Typebars :)
Please keep WD40 far away from this beauty.
I will be following your progress with interest. I have a model B. My father spotted it on a shelf where he worked back in the '70s. He asked around, found out it was no longer used, and got it for next to nothing. Its drive belt broke a few decades ago, and it hasn't been used since then. It's been out in my garage for almost fifteen years. I want to get it back into working condition. I love the style of these machines. I haven't had any luck finding a source for a drive belt online yet. Bing keeps trying to direct me to listings for Selectric belts.
What will you do if/when you get it fully working? Keep it or sell it for profit?
Differences ..for one ..screwed tab opener ..some punctuation fix it codes plus a few slightly crooked....center top letters #font
This is great - thanks! I've got three of these - one has a malfunctioning Tab key; one doesn't advance the ribbon and one is frozen. Ha! But I'm on it! You've inspired me. Any tips would be appreciated!
The typewriter enthusiasts who are embarrassed they have to lead with “i only paid xxx for this…” watch for it. It’s an interesting feature.
Joyce
@48:51 Unbelievable....no boot up time! Turn on and start typing! 👍
F key not working....WD40 on rubber roller or grip thing? WD40 is good, but not on all places...😉😁
That IBM was called the "Electromatic"….
"not an investment" well here we are 5 years later and these things go for hundreds of dollars on eBay...
NO WD40!! Very bad
DONT EVER USE WD-40!!!!
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