Tahoe Rear LED Replacement 2021-2023
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- čas přidán 20. 08. 2023
- Chevy Tahoe Rear Tail Light LED bulbs 2021-2023. How to replace the 2021 Suburban Tahoe Rear Bulbs: Break light, Reverse light and Blinker light with LEDs. This method will eliminate hyper flash on the blinker and the the error message caused by the Can-bus system on the Tahoe suburban. Eliminate brake light error code, get rid of LED error code on suburban Tahoe.
PARTS I USED:
Tahoe BREAK LED:
www.amazon.com/Alla-Lighting-...
RESISTORS (6) Total: FOLLOW DIRECTIONS OF THE MANUFACTURER
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
3M CONNECTOR:
www.amazon.com/dp/B0035R7TKO?...
Tahoe TURN LED:
www.amazon.com/Alla-Lighting-...
Tahoe REVERSE LED:
www.amazon.com/Alla-Lighting-...
Can you please share the names of parts. Thank you.
In the description.. Here y’a go
load resistor (6)
amzn.to/44r7Cjo
3m waterproof connector
amzn.to/3sya5uT
Tahoe reverse led
amzn.to/3OMn57T
Tahoe break
amzn.to/44roPt1
Tahoe turn
amzn.to/480oRev
@@skynet7408 thank you very much.
The fact that these vehicles don't come with LED lights in the tail lights is ridiculous. I mean 70-80K for these Tahoe's should get you all LED lights.
DO NOT let the Break Resistor touch any of the plastic. install them according to the directions of the manufacturer or at the very least so that they are floating, not touching plastic.. which is what I did. I ordered many different LEDS to try. These worked the best and had a uniform look, as well as the heat sink. Use the resistors for all the rear LEDs attaching them to the two outside wires. I ran my infrared thermometer on the break lights after 10 mins of use and the max I got was 270, keep in mind it was already 111 out when I tested the temp.
I’ll have a couple of updates . I spray painted the gold to metallic silver, looks much better. if you find that the lights are loose simply re spring the detent clips on the bulb socket by taking a small flat head and moving the clip / spring inwards, This creates a better hold. Also instead of locating the resistors behind the light, & (having to float the break light). I would put them underneath the car where the wiring harness plugs in. It is very easy to access making servicing the resistors a breeze and completely eliminating the fear of heat. I’m assuming Tracing the right wires to underneath the car may require just removing the hole harness. Could be worth it, as the location underneath is far superior. Maybe I’ll make a follow up video
Great video!
Could you please advise on how to change the 3rd brake/spoiler lights?
Thankfully that one is already LED. Thank you.
over time those resistors will melt the wiring, might not happen right away but eventually. I would advise mounting the resistors on the body behind the light housing with a couple small screws, that's why they have screw tabs already.
The blinkers and reverse don’t worry me. It’s the break lights when there is bumper to bumper traffic for a 60 mins straight. that worries me. I’ve tested about 10 solid mins on the blinker and got a 40+ and break got a 170+ degrees from what ever the ambient temp is.. I’m in a desert, so we are def pushing the boundaries of mould point on the blinker and past on break. Still no where near melting. I will do everything I can to avoid drilling into the metal. I should make a follow up vidya about the heat.
it's just what I would recommend in the long term, each time it gets hot it melts a little bit and the plastic does not heal it's self so over time it just slowly happens, that's why they have those built on screw mount holes on the resistors, easy adjustment to make. small drill bit and a couple metal screws. easy peasy. @@skynet7408
Quick question I am looking to do just bought a 2023 Tahoe premier Pearl White, But I was wondering If You Ever Heard The LEDs reverse lights That Have Built in Canbus Error Chip in Them , looking to go to simplegrout about It. Hopefully they Will Not Throw any Codes 🤔
I tried a few of those, they stuck out the back a bit too far and I couldn’t get the light all the way back in. Some still threw errors. In addition Each one was a different color which kinda bothered me. Since the housing is clear the sun light picks up on the different colors. they defeat the clear look. With the ones I chose they are at least the same form factor. As it stands the gold doesn’t have as much as an effect on making the housing look like a different color. Working on making them silver instead of gold. Will post a video or pics in the comments if I can.
@@skynet7408 Ok Cool , Thanks for Replying.
Did it throw any warnings on dashboard? That seems to be the common issue when people try to install led bulbs in the rear
No warnings, works flawlessly. You need the resistors, they eliminate the warnings and hyper flash. I put the LEDs in without the resistors just to test them.. couldn't stand the warning for more than a day, drove me nuts. once the resistors were in works like a charm, haven't looked back.
☦️☦️☦️☦️☦️☦️☦️
OMG! I normally don’t respond to these types of things but I can’t ignore this one. While I have no objection to power efficient LED lighting this conversion defeats the efficiency and compromises the integrity of the vehicle wiring and diagnostic functions.
To be specific: The resistor is required so that the vehicle diagnostics sees a load that appears to be a cold tungsten lamp filament, a few ohms. It dissipates about 31 watts of power when lamps are energized. That’s going to get pretty hot. Those are Dale type power resistors and are designed to be screwed to an adequate aluminum heat sink, NOT ZIP TIED TO PVC WIRING.
So, we’ve defeated the power savings AND nullified the diagnostic capability that tells you if a lamp has failed.
Lastly, those ScotchLok connectors are NOT waterproof (I could be wrong, maybe they put GOO in them now, no matter). They suck! In fact they vastly degrade the integrity of the wiring. They are actually called “insulation displacement” connectors and work by crushing the insulation and squeezing the wire strands into a thin slotted metal blade, usually breaking a strand or few. This greatly weakens the wire mechanically and subjects it to environmental damage. They are good in a dire emergency to get a trailer home or get your boat navigation lights working until you can get to a some soldering iron and heat shrink tubing,
Just my opinion mind you, but it comes from many years of experience in both electronic design and wrenching. You can make your own decisions with sufficient information.
Wrong about the scotchlock not being water proof. (Check the link in my description. These are 16G waterproof and don’t pinch the metal, if at all. I tested on same gauge wire I had laying around... It’s 24w, 13.5 volts I’m not overly hyper about it since there is barely any wire pinch but still has a grip. I agree they aren’t the best for many use cases. I really don’t feel like cutting and splicing my wire. Don’t see the reason for the big stink on this. but would understand if it was used on high voltage
Correct about the resistors. I have in my description to Follow the manufactures installation instructions.
As it stand I’m not tapping the resistors into the truck. I’m not concerned about the blinker or reverse. The break resistors are hovering not touching anything. After 10 solid mins of use they are getting to a temp of about 270, this is past the mould temp of polycarbonate. But! Not past the melting temp. For people reading this, do mount to the vehicle as it says in the directions.
LED > bulb out notifications
@@skynet7408 OK on all that. Ill have to check out the new version of ScotchLok. Can't imagine how they don't pinch through insulation and make decent contact. My axiom is 90% of most electrical failures are usually due to some contact failure.
@@skynet7408 Scratching my head here. Thought I misread ohms rating, but nope. 6 ohms @ 13.5V is indeed 30.375 watts. It wont take much of a metal plate to shed some of that heat. Im going to take some measurements on my Tahoe to determine how much current needs to be sunk to look like there's a filament there. Only a few milliamps I suspect. Chances are a small constant current device (FET probably) could be used to simulate a cold filament when lamps are off and would pass no more than that small amount with lamps at 13.5. Ill follow up on this.
@@marks5603 yes, please do. That would be awesome!
@@marks5603 Just checking in to see if you were able to play around and test it out using a FET. curious to try it myself if you were able to get it to work.