xr6 Turbo diy diff rebuild- New bearings
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- čas přidán 16. 07. 2024
- In this video i tear down an unknown condition ba xr6 turbo diff bought from marketplace and i replace the bearings.
0:00 Intro
0:20 whats wrong with the diff
3:10 Measurements before disassembly
6:45 Making tool for disassembly
11:45 removing diff center
13:30 Bad pinion bearings
14:05 pinion gear removal
16:00 diff housing bearing race removal
17:01 inspecting pinion bearings
18:44 removing screw adjuster bearing cups
22:02 installing screw adjuster bearing cups
24:00 Diff center bearing removal
26:08 New parts
27:48 Bearing part numbers
28:58 pressing on new bearings
30:55 pinion gear installation
34:52 Diy Pinion preload tool
37:37 Setting pinion preload
41:56 Setting backlash
45:11 carrier bearing preload
47:11 final measurements
49:02 contact pattern check
50:50 interpreting contact marks
53:23 Diff cover sealant
54:11 overview
Best upcoming CZcams channel.
Thanks man!
I was watching this, and thought "That 20 minutes or so went quick", only to realize the video was triple the length I thought it was 😂
Pretty damn professional for such a small channel, you've earned yourself a sub!
It's definitely a massive video and i cut out a lot of footage haha. Thanks for the comment mate, should have some more videos soon!
@55:00 you say that you couldn’t find anything on these diffs I was literally in the same boat a couple years back, I’m glad you have made this video I’ve been watching it the past 3 days gaining some insight on everything.
It definitely surprised me at the time because they are not an uncommon car and there are many of them getting around with different gear sets and diff centers installed. Glad its been helpful to you!
Great video bloke, well done. Will archive this.
Glad it was of use to you! cheers
thanks bloke what a great vid. best torque wrench ever
Thanks mate!
Great video mate. Gives me confidence to attempt a trutrac install into my M86
Thanks mate, I've since installed it and it runs nice and quiet. Take your time and triple check all your adjustments and you should be good.
What an amazingly detailed video. Thank you so much for for posting this. I am about to do the same job so this information is appreciated very much.
Glad the video is helpful to you!
Awesome video mate. Super helpful! Appreciate it!
Thank you mate. Very clear and concise video. Please make more.
Thanks mate! more on their way soon
Great video good info , easy to watch
Thanks mate!
Fantastic video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience!
Thanks mate!
Awesome work. For a screw adjuster in the past I have used an aluminium oil filter remover and cut teeth into it. Loved your version. Also when removing the bearing carriers I mark them as you did plus count the rotations to remove. With new bearings not needed unless reusing the bearings. Gets you in the ball park and or where you were when pulling it down.
I actually did consider using an oil filter tool like that or an adjustable angle grinder spanner but didnt think it would be strong enough. They actually took way less effort to remove then i was expecting.
Good video mate! Got a lot of good info from it.
Cheers mate
Pro video thanks mate got my old m86 in the garage made me feel like tearing it down just to have a look at what went wrong
Thanks mate. Cant hurt tearing it down!
Great work mate.
Excellent video and thanks for your time and efforts. This type of video helps a lot of people so thanks again. XR6 turbo diff may be hard to find but your can also use a territory diff which is a M86 and the ratio is lower with a truetrac center it could be a good option for others.
Thanks for the comment! yes have since found out the territories run an m86 as well. The lower ratios would probably be favored for those at the drags etc to help overcome that tall 1st gear in the btr. Originally i was hoping to just put this diff in the car without touching it but it didn't quiet work out that way. Truetrac center is also a great idea, this lsd works but i have no idea how much work it has done.
nice work mate
Well made video young man. Did brilliant job filming and explaining all steps. Bet u did better job than any so called diff mechanics.
Thanks mate!
Brilliant video keep
It up mate
Fantastic video, thanks mate!
Thanks mate!
awesome video great info
SUPER Nice !! Thank you for your time and effort ... :)
No worries, glad you enjoyed it!
Great video on a how to for the Falcon IRS diff, liked and subbed.
Thanks!
Awesome video! Your a pro
I wouldn't say i'm that good! haha
very good and well explained/ ex jaguar mechanic /brysons east sydney
Thanks mate! means a lot to hear that from a real mechanic
My BF2 XR8 and I thank you 👍
You have bearing part numbers?.... wrote this and 30 seconds later you gave them to us. Legend!
Edit: liked & sub'd
Good to see you making the extra tools instead of spending big dollars on something you might only use once 👍 its something i also do. Mine don't look pretty but they get the job done for peanuts.
THIS VIDEO IS ABSOLUTE GOLD! THANK YOU & PLEASE KEEP IT UP 👍
Glad the video helped, thanks for the feedback!
Perfect.
Love the stand idea. If you ever need parts sourced I'm in Melbourne PM me. Happy to help. Good video.
You did not bad with what you had the only thing I would of done differently was got new gears for it
Good stuff mate . Surprised you got away with stick welding that Chrome moly socket though , would have expected it to crack off under load . Keep up the good work , top shelf .
I wasn't to sure what was going to happen when i welded it but welded easily. The screw adjusters aren't very tight though.
that was really good. i am currently doing an AU LSD and it's pretty similar. i was thinking of using the solid spacer because i just can't see why they use a crush spacer other than its easier than making tiny adjustments t a solid spacer. but get it right and it should be just as good.
From a production viewpoint a crush washer is quicker because you can get the preload correct first go. If you're building a really high performance diff or plan on taking it apart often a solid spacer definitely isn't a bad thing. Good luck with the au lsd!
While you have it apart I’d replace all the bearings to mate. Great video
I did end up replacing all the bearings in the video. The diff centre bearings didn't look to bad but it was an extra $50 to do them so it made sense.
Legend
Just about to do the same
good luck with it mate! getting the diff out of the car is by far the hardest part haha
Bloody legend
Thanks mate!
The man bro mean vid give my 1 a crack 1 day bout time someone made a video to do with barras without time lapse
Thanks mate! while I'm often figuring it out as i go i aim to show people stuff they can use to help with their own builds in my videos
Mate you have the diff stripped down just replace all bearings. Good video
G'day Lad, great video covering all the aspects of these diffs.
One small point, at 45 min your calculations are off. 195 x 3.46= 674.7 not 467.1. So you were about middle range if spec.
Would love to see vid on the solid axle design, eg, ute diff. Also checking / replacing of the LSD parts.
You're dead right i definitely made a mistake there. I have no idea what happened to end up with that result. Its a shame about the ute diff, i actually had the solid axle version of this diff apart out of my fg ute earlier this year. It wasn't a full rebuild but i had to remove the center to change the carier bearings and the lsd friction plates so sort a clunk it had on takeoff. Sadly i didn't film it.
Great video, so much informations in it, much appreciated, wonder if it is the same sort of set up for the solid axles in my bf ute. Learned a lot anyway, can't wait to see the result in your car. My current diff my ute whines starting from 80km/h on slight throttle while coasting, and noise stops with foot off throttle or lower than 80km/h. I suspect my pinion bearing to be bad and so too much play. I was searching for information and came across your video. Now I gotta figure out how the carrier bearings preload works on a solid axle set Up. Thanks
Some parts are similar for the solid axle namely the pinion setup however carrier preload and backlash is set with shims. In your case most the time you can get away with replacing the bearings and reinstalling the shims just make sure they go back in the exact same spot they came out. There should be 0 play in your pinion bearings. If there's movement you definitely have issues. I have put the diff in my car now, video should be up soon!
Hi, I'm in Tassy also, about to rebuild the lsd on my nc v8
Small world! solid axle m78 in the nc. Different setup to this diff but similar in some ways
This was a fantastic video, is this a manual car with that set of gears.
Its an auto, all ba xr6 turbo and xr8 ran 3.46:1 manual and auto. Bf started running other ratios with the 6 speed auto etc.
Put a bit of weld on the race then you can get it with a punch from the inside :)
Good idea, thats how i wanted to try it but i've only got access to a stick welder. Was a little nervous about taking to it with that haha
Great video mate, just one thing I didn’t see the shim that was behind the big pinion bearing the you pulled out, did you put it back in? I wouldn’t mind having a go at building one of these cheers
Thanks mate, yes the shim went back in. If reusing the same gears you reuse the shim. Providing you use the exact same kind of bearings as you took out it should still be within spec but you still check contact pattern on the gears once all assembled to verify this. If using new gears though then you will likely need different shims to suit.
@@stuff7853 okay no worries mate the problem with mine is I’ll be using another set of used gears and don’t have the shim out of the housing that these gears came out of if that makes sense 😂😂
@@jakestocks1296 Even if you had the shim it would be worth checking because there can be variances in the housings. Your best bet will be to make a set of dummy bearings. Use the old ones, grind the inside and outsides of them so they slip on and off the pinion and the races slip into the housing if that makes sense. Then you can easily assemble and disassemble to swap out shims until its correct. Just reuse the old crush washer for test fitting and tighten the pinion nut until it has some drag on it. Replace it with a new one and set preload properly once you do final fitment with new bearings. Good luck!
Hello there. I have been looking all over the internet for a video on this differentials. I got a 2006 pontiac gto with the same differential. I wanted to ask you how did it go with the differential after you installed it and ran it?
Hey, that makes sense that the pontiac has the same diff. Sold as Holden over here, both the ford and Holden used borgwarner/dana diffs in their cars. I've had no trouble with it since i installed it but if i was going to do it again i think i would go the extra step and install a trutrack style center as the dana tracloc centers fitted from factory use clutch plates which wear out over time.
Hi mate, just wondering if you done because you get a thump noise from the back of the car when you accelerate hard and let off the throttle? I have an xr6 turbo and trying to do research on this, I done the diff bushes and still same. I was thinking tail shaft, diff, or axels but it looks like it be the diff from what your describing in the video. So did you have a thump noise from the back? If so did this stop when you repaired the diff?
Hey mate. This wasn't done to fix an issue. The car still had the weaker m78 diff in it which had nothing wrong with it. (it was originally an na xr6) so this was done to upgrade the rear end of the car to turbo spec parts. An often problematic part for the clunks you're describing is the transmission. I've found the 4 speeds have a tendency to cause the driveline to clunk and bang when you lift off the accelerator and they shift into a higher gear. Eliminate everything else first, check for play in axles and the tail shaft cv joint. Check the tail shaft centre bearing etc. Unfortunately falcons are renowned for having sloppy drivelines
@@stuff7853 thanks for the response, appreciate it. I think I will check the driveshaft and centre bearing. I had a transmission specialist who does the ford transmissions check it and he said box and converter are good and all shift points are spot on. I got an oil change, it’s somewhat better but I have reviewed how they service the 6 speed autos on here and they show how they change the solenoids and rubbers in the transmission and all the mechanics here in Australia know how to do is change the bloody oil lol. I m sick of these mechanics who don’t want to work for there money all just want easy job and get paid that’s it, and the job is not solved.
@@AdonisMotivationSuccess This comment here is the reason why i make these videos and constantly push myself to learn how to do everything myself. I don't like to say all mechanics because there are some brilliant ones out there but unfortunately i have been let down to many times, when its myself who makes a mistake i have no one to blame. I didn't realise yours is a 6 speed. Check out Ross Reviews, hes had a bunch of trouble with his f6 with similar issues.
Hi mate
Any info on the Mace m86 diffs? Cheers
Hey Mate, i haven't used one sorry. I assume you're referring to their trutrac style clones? i did look into them when i rebuilt this and couldn't find much info except for a forum post of a few guys saying they were ok but not as strong as the proper eaton units.
Are they not normally LSD from factory? In NZ I think all XR are LSD as a factory standard
Can't speak for NZ but over in Aus most non turbo xr's are open wheel but 3.45:1 ratio instead of the 3.23:1 found in most the lower spec models like the xt/futura. Lsd was an optional extra. Mine was optioned with the lsd, colour screen and premium sound system. All turbo's/ xr8 came factory fitted with the bigger m86 3.46:1 lsd diff in the 4 speed cars.
Why has the spline on the pinion shaft been ground down?
I wondered the same thing, it was evident someone had been in this diff once before. I think they probably did it as an attempt to try and make the pinion flange slide on that initial bit easier.
I didn't read the comments but how did it go in the car? I have to replace the bearings because it has a whine. My situation is a long story of making my own diff hat.
Sorry for the late reply mate. It went fine in the car. Would be getting close to 10,000ks on it now.
@@stuff7853 that's cool. I will be giving it a go soon.
@@dzitezracing Good luck with it mate, let us know how you get on
@@stuff7853 I finally rebuilt my diff. $300.00 for all new bearings & seals etc. Used the old crush washer. My old man fitted it all up by feel. The thing is absolutely perfect. Thanks again for the vid.
@@dzitezracing Good to hear mate! Glad you had a crack and it worked out well for you
Hey mate where'd u get Ur spec sheet from?
Its out of the ford service manual for the ba falcon. It can be downloaded with a quick google search or i think ford forums also hosts it
Why couldn't you dial the backlash tighter so it was tight?
There is variation around the ring gear so if you set it at the minimum backlash specified in the manual on the tightest tooth it will be looser on other parts of the ring gear. The backlash also has some effect on the mesh pattern so it adjusted accordingly as a compromise between the two. Lastly when using used gears i would recommend setting the backlash as close as possible to what they have been running at before disassembly as the gears have worn to that adjustment.
If you meant why couldn't i set it tight as in zero backlash its because the clearances tighten up as the diff heats up and metal expands and a gearset with no backlash will bind up and get damaged.
@@stuff7853 Thanks for that amazing reply appreciate it alot
@@mick3429 No problems!
Complete novice question: you don't need to pack any of those bearings with grease?
Theyr'e all lubricated with gear oil so just a light coating of oil is all the they need