Thanks for your great video. A helpful idea - If you put the two front upper bushings into the freezer - Yes the freezer - the night before you press in the bushings into place the bushings will drop in place nicely without using a bearing press. Also be sure to cover the bushings with anti-sieze before dropping the upper front bushings in place. It works. I just finished replacing all the upper and lower control arms in the front and rear with NEW control arms all around including the rear upper ball bearing. The entire project on my 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited took me (by myself) just under three hours.
Do not tighten your bolts untill you have the jeep on all 4's and on the ground. It keeps the bushing steel cores from torquing the rubber fill. In a space thats not normally seen but on axle droop.
I know I'm late with my comment. But this is how I line up the holes. I put a large pipe wrench on the axle tube. Then I put a floor jack under the end of the pipe wrench. Jack it up and the axle will lift and rotate at the same time. Very easy.
My bushing keeps backing out and your video is the first out of hundreds that I've watched that says to bend the lip so as not to back out, thank you very helpful
I have found that before I pull the bolts out I can put a ratchet strap on it to hold the axle in place. Saves a lot of time. I also do one at a time. Thanks for the video. My bushings started to back out on my WJ and I was thinking about using locktite when I press them in but I will stake them as well after watching this.
absolutely right ... I did my TJ one arm at a time. Used a ratchet strap and jack. My friend used a come-along and had an easier time than a ratchet strap. I started out using 640 lb. ratchet strap and had to upgraded to a 1,000 pounder
I didn’t get it too bad, but the entire steering and suspension on this thing was toast! Any time you change out bushings, it’s a good idea to at least have the alignment checked.
I can't even get the bolt out of the upper control arm to the axle. The whole axle has shifted forward, and I broke my ratchet strap just trying to line up the axle back with the bushing hole. How did you get the holes to line back up?
@@CliffsHowTo thanks for the quick reply. Leverage kind of helped. I ended up buying a heavier duty ratched strap, and hooked from the mid crossmember to the bump stop metal point on the axle, and a second ratchet strap from the lower control arm and upper control arm bushing "bracket". Now the screw is out, but I cant press out the bushing with the tool I rented. Now, I will be drilling out the rubber bushing, and sawing out the metal 'cylinder/sleeve'. Freezing the new bushings at the moment to make installation of the new bushing easier...
I finally have to do this next weekend. I'm going with the Mopar 52088214 or the Omix-ada equivalent 18283.07 Everyone online says to use the moog k3128 or moog k3166. I'm a 20 year vet at O'Reilly. Those fit ALL late 80s to early 2000s Jeeps but something is different about our WJs so im sticking with the correct parts. Maybe the rubber is softer or stronger or better. Idk but it's correct and mine lasted 20 years so I'm going with those.
Going bad front upper control arm bushings cause death wobble ? Mine jst started a death wobble after lifting 2 inch with spacers. Happens if I go over 40 MPH happens some times probably if im driving on a construction roads.
It’s my understanding that it’s a combination of worn bushings, alignment, and worn stabilizer. I rebuilt the entire front end to prevent it. (I never actually got it)
@@Al-hx2gc So do bad ball joints, u joints, track bar (as you said), all control arm bushings, wheel bearing, and wheels/tires. I've had it all on my 04 WJ. Specifically, the upper control arm bushings at the axle side... I would get vibes at 55-70ish. At cruise: sometimes. Under acceleration/load/: perfect. Under deceleration: VIBRATION.
So I got brand new bushings put in last year and saw them installed prior to them putting the Jeep back together. Few months later they’re gone. Completely gone. Is that something that actually happens? I’m at a loss on what happened to them lol
I finally have to do this next weekend. I'm going with the Mopar 52088214 or the Omix-ada equivalent 18283.07 Everyone online says to use the moog k3128 or moog k3166. I'm a 20 year vet at O'Reilly. Those fit ALL late 80s to early 2000s Jeeps but something is different about our WJs so im sticking with the correct parts. Maybe the rubber is softer or stronger or better. Idk but it's correct and mine lasted 20 years so I'm going with those.
@@GoCubsSoxSuck123 If I remember correctly I went with the Omix-ada part. I gave that vehicle to mom and I need it to be totally safe and reliable for her. I could drive a jalopy, but she drives it daily. I'll check my receipts and get back to you today during the day.
I finally have to do this next weekend. I'm going with the Mopar 52088214 or the Omix-ada equivalent 18283.07 Everyone online says to use the moog k3128 or moog k3166. I'm a 20 year vet at O'Reilly. Those fit ALL late 80s to early 2000s Jeeps but something is different about our WJs so im sticking with the correct parts. Maybe the rubber is softer or stronger or better. Idk but it's correct and mine lasted 20 years so I'm going with those.
I finally have to do this next weekend. I'm going with the Mopar 52088214 or the Omix-ada equivalent 18283.07 Everyone online says to use the moog k3128 or moog k3166. I'm a 20 year vet at O'Reilly. Those fit ALL late 80s to early 2000s Jeeps but something is different about our WJs so im sticking with the correct parts. Maybe the rubber is softer or stronger or better. Idk but it's correct and mine lasted 20 years so I'm going with those.
Thanks for your great video. A helpful idea - If you put the two front upper bushings into the freezer - Yes the freezer - the night before you press in the bushings into place the bushings will drop in place nicely without using a bearing press. Also be sure to cover the bushings with anti-sieze before dropping the upper front bushings in place. It works. I just finished replacing all the upper and lower control arms in the front and rear with NEW control arms all around including the rear upper ball bearing. The entire project on my 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited took me (by myself) just under three hours.
Cool video thanks im glad you showed everything from beginning to end some people cut the important parts
Do not tighten your bolts untill you have the jeep on all 4's and on the ground.
It keeps the bushing steel cores from torquing the rubber fill. In a space thats not normally seen but on axle droop.
Sounds legit!
Brother, a question will be why it breaks them shortly before 3 weeks. I tighten the bolts with the tires up
I know I'm late with my comment. But this is how I line up the holes. I put a large pipe wrench on the axle tube. Then I put a floor jack under the end of the pipe wrench. Jack it up and the axle will lift and rotate at the same time. Very easy.
My bushing keeps backing out and your video is the first out of hundreds that I've watched that says to bend the lip so as not to back out, thank you very helpful
You can also tack weld it.
I have found that before I pull the bolts out I can put a ratchet strap on it to hold the axle in place. Saves a lot of time. I also do one at a time. Thanks for the video. My bushings started to back out on my WJ and I was thinking about using locktite when I press them in but I will stake them as well after watching this.
ty for the video, nice camera work and clear instructions
Definitely getting a subscribe and like. Best video I found so far
Omg, my 02 is a complete rust bucket underneath! I wish mine was that clean.
One of the perks of living without snow!
I found out that if i lift a little the front part of the spring support the hole will align in no time 😁
Mate.... I found that unbolting and doing one at a time is the easiest and quickest way..
learned this my self today
absolutely right ... I did my TJ one arm at a time. Used a ratchet strap and jack. My friend used a come-along and had an easier time than a ratchet strap. I started out using 640 lb. ratchet strap and had to upgraded to a 1,000 pounder
It is the same to adjust the screws with the car on the ground or in the air. Let me know what breaks the bugs
Hola. Cual es el numero de parte de los bujes?
We’re you getting the death wobble at times from particular bumps in the road? Did you need a alignment afterwards?
I didn’t get it too bad, but the entire steering and suspension on this thing was toast!
Any time you change out bushings, it’s a good idea to at least have the alignment checked.
I can't even get the bolt out of the upper control arm to the axle. The whole axle has shifted forward, and I broke my ratchet strap just trying to line up the axle back with the bushing hole. How did you get the holes to line back up?
I did one side at a time. To line the holes back up, all I did was use a pry bar for leverage.
@@CliffsHowTo thanks for the quick reply. Leverage kind of helped. I ended up buying a heavier duty ratched strap, and hooked from the mid crossmember to the bump stop metal point on the axle, and a second ratchet strap from the lower control arm and upper control arm bushing "bracket". Now the screw is out, but I cant press out the bushing with the tool I rented. Now, I will be drilling out the rubber bushing, and sawing out the metal 'cylinder/sleeve'. Freezing the new bushings at the moment to make installation of the new bushing easier...
Where did you get the upper bushings man? Cant seem to find anything
I finally have to do this next weekend. I'm going with the Mopar 52088214 or the Omix-ada equivalent 18283.07
Everyone online says to use the moog k3128 or moog k3166.
I'm a 20 year vet at O'Reilly.
Those fit ALL late 80s to early 2000s Jeeps but something is different about our WJs so im sticking with the correct parts. Maybe the rubber is softer or stronger or better. Idk but it's correct and mine lasted 20 years so I'm going with those.
Going bad front upper control arm bushings cause death wobble ? Mine jst started a death wobble after lifting 2 inch with spacers. Happens if I go over 40 MPH happens some times probably if im driving on a construction roads.
It’s my understanding that it’s a combination of worn bushings, alignment, and worn stabilizer. I rebuilt the entire front end to prevent it. (I never actually got it)
What were you experience with worn bushing? Wheel shaking at 70 mph?
Yup. But slower, around 50-55
Track Bar Bushings cause that wobble
@@Al-hx2gc
So do bad ball joints, u joints, track bar (as you said), all control arm bushings, wheel bearing, and wheels/tires.
I've had it all on my 04 WJ.
Specifically, the upper control arm bushings at the axle side... I would get vibes at 55-70ish.
At cruise: sometimes.
Under acceleration/load/: perfect.
Under deceleration: VIBRATION.
So I got brand new bushings put in last year and saw them installed prior to them putting the Jeep back together. Few months later they’re gone. Completely gone. Is that something that actually happens? I’m at a loss on what happened to them lol
Dang!
Is you jeep lifted?? That can do it. There are aftermarket bushings for more articulation. I think Iron Rock Offroad has some.
They probably torqued the bolts before setting it down, that will cause this!!
Go with polyethylene bushings
How and where did you find the part and part number for the bushings?
Hey Fred, did you ever find the part number. It has been difficult finding the correct one.
The front upper control arm bushings (axle mounted) are same ones used in the control arm. www.quadratec.com
I finally have to do this next weekend. I'm going with the Mopar 52088214 or the Omix-ada equivalent 18283.07
Everyone online says to use the moog k3128 or moog k3166.
I'm a 20 year vet at O'Reilly.
Those fit ALL late 80s to early 2000s Jeeps but something is different about our WJs so im sticking with the correct parts. Maybe the rubber is softer or stronger or better. Idk but it's correct and mine lasted 20 years so I'm going with those.
@@xmo552 Thank you for the part #!! Not sure why OP isn't helping out with the part #. Thanks again
@@GoCubsSoxSuck123
If I remember correctly I went with the Omix-ada part. I gave that vehicle to mom and I need it to be totally safe and reliable for her. I could drive a jalopy, but she drives it daily.
I'll check my receipts and get back to you today during the day.
2wd why
What is the name of the bushings from the axle
You can install some Moog K3166's.
VaporheadATC thankyou very much
I finally have to do this next weekend. I'm going with the Mopar 52088214 or the Omix-ada equivalent 18283.07
Everyone online says to use the moog k3128 or moog k3166.
I'm a 20 year vet at O'Reilly.
Those fit ALL late 80s to early 2000s Jeeps but something is different about our WJs so im sticking with the correct parts. Maybe the rubber is softer or stronger or better. Idk but it's correct and mine lasted 20 years so I'm going with those.
What kit did you use?
I didn’t buy just one kit. I sourced the parts from various sources: eBay, advanced auto, etc.
I finally have to do this next weekend. I'm going with the Mopar 52088214 or the Omix-ada equivalent 18283.07
Everyone online says to use the moog k3128 or moog k3166.
I'm a 20 year vet at O'Reilly.
Those fit ALL late 80s to early 2000s Jeeps but something is different about our WJs so im sticking with the correct parts. Maybe the rubber is softer or stronger or better. Idk but it's correct and mine lasted 20 years so I'm going with those.
2WD Jeep?
Yes
@@CliffsHowTo very rare WJ!
@@teamracing6
Not really. My local junk yard has about 5.