I second Peters Comment. DO NOT fully tighten the bolts on any control arms with the tires off the ground. ESPECIALLY if your have a lift on your Jeep. If you do this you will prematurely wear the bushings as they will be tightened out of normal ride height and will twist when the vehicle is set down off the jack stands.
@@willbradford898 Yes, fully tighten them when the tires are on the ground. You want to make sure that they are torqued on the ground so they are tightened at the angle the vehicle will ride at down the road. I have the torque specs in my service Manuel in the back of my jeep I will list them on here as on as i get home for you
When tightening the bolts for control arms, the vehicle must be at ride height, under normal loading. If the bolts are tightened while the axle is in droop, the bushings will be preloaded rather than static once the vehicle is back on the ground...
Does this apply for the rear also ? I recently replaced my lower control arms in the rear as well as upper control arm and ball joint , and sway bar links. I tightened the control arms as tight as I could while it was up on jack stop and now when I drive it I hear a rattling sound in the rear.
If you are lengthening or shortening your front lower control arms and trying to align bolts and bolt holes, simply use a floor jack to lift the tie rod (lengthen) or just behind the differential pumpkin (shorten). Best to do one arm at a time and lowers can be done with the Jeep on the ground (I use ramps).
I have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0 I am looking to get replacement nuts and bolts for my upper and lower control arms seeing I am replacing those... if somebody knows the length and sizes that would be awesome!
Are you sure the the torque setting is right? I have a Haynes repair manual and it says the lower to the frame on a 2002 is 115 ft- lbs and to the axle is 120 ft-lbs for a 2000 and later year.
Did you try it that way? I was wondering the same cause I'm getting ready to replace them. I'm also wondering if that way makes doing the uppers easier
I second Peters Comment. DO NOT fully tighten the bolts on any control arms with the tires off the ground. ESPECIALLY if your have a lift on your Jeep. If you do this you will prematurely wear the bushings as they will be tightened out of normal ride height and will twist when the vehicle is set down off the jack stands.
Should i then fully tighten them when i lower the car off the jack
@@willbradford898 Yes, fully tighten them when the tires are on the ground. You want to make sure that they are torqued on the ground so they are tightened at the angle the vehicle will ride at down the road. I have the torque specs in my service Manuel in the back of my jeep I will list them on here as on as i get home for you
@@shanestauffer1624 Wow that would be awesome thanks so much
I just did this and regret not finding this sooner...
Can I do this without jacking it?
When tightening the bolts for control arms, the vehicle must be at ride height, under normal loading. If the bolts are tightened while the axle is in droop, the bushings will be preloaded rather than static once the vehicle is back on the ground...
What effect will that have on the bushings and the suspension?
cause then to fail prematurely, and could also cause some drivability issues. Bump steer, etc...
Does this apply for the rear also ? I recently replaced my lower control arms in the rear as well as upper control arm and ball joint , and sway bar links. I tightened the control arms as tight as I could while it was up on jack stop and now when I drive it I hear a rattling sound in the rear.
@@pwark711 Should i then fully tighten the bolts when i drop the truck?
How to tighten at ride height when the vehicle is on jack stands?
If you are lengthening or shortening your front lower control arms and trying to align bolts and bolt holes, simply use a floor jack to lift the tie rod (lengthen) or just behind the differential pumpkin (shorten). Best to do one arm at a time and lowers can be done with the Jeep on the ground (I use ramps).
I have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0 I am looking to get replacement nuts and bolts for my upper and lower control arms seeing I am replacing those... if somebody knows the length and sizes that would be awesome!
Google is your friend. Calling Auto Zone is your friend. Try doing something for yourself instead of demanding others do it for you
It was three years ago, so I imagine he's done it by now. And he simply asked, politely, for information. He didn't "demand" anything.
would keeping of one the front tires on the ground while doing the other side prevent the axle from moving
You won’t be able to pull the bolt out as there’s too much tension on the control arms with one tire on. Just tried this today. Learned myself
Are you sure the the torque setting is right? I have a Haynes repair manual and it says the lower to the frame on a 2002 is 115 ft- lbs and to the axle is 120 ft-lbs for a 2000 and later year.
Use the number you found in the manual.
Would lining up the holes be easier if you didn't jack up the vehicle?
Possibly, but it might also make it harder to access the fasteners.
Did you try it that way? I was wondering the same cause I'm getting ready to replace them. I'm also wondering if that way makes doing the uppers easier
thanks!!
The title says "Front Control ARM, Lower" but isn't that the rear end?
Never mind, I'm dumb.
@@stevepielacha6156 yes, you are.
Axle stands/jack stands should be placed under the body NOT the axle. Then the axle is less likely to move and misalign the holes