Thank you for making a True Review vid!! I wanted to get one but wanted to see how it holds up after putting it to work. 100’s of vids of unboxing it and a 2-3 min review…. hearing what they think about it when they just opened the damn thing and “set up” what plug it in and turn it on, ok….. Thank you again for a detailed and true review vid!
Thanks for sharing your experience 👍🏻 Nothing compares to my old Devilbis and kellog but I’ve seen a central pneumatic 26gal 1.8hp oiless still running and pumping after 10 years of everyday use however the regulator leaked, the safety valve leaked and the other day I fixed the check valve by sanding and lapping the puck flat, oh and intake filter housing cracked at the crimped fitting. Other that those easy to fix things it still pumps up 135lb in the sub zero temps we experienced in the last few days. I can’t believe we haven’t had to do reeds or a piston o-ring yet 😂 Even if it falls apart it served its purpose for what was paid for it.
The old black Central Pneumatic lasted 30 years for me with almost daily use from spraying paint, running muffler cutoffs, hot air plastic welders, nibblers, air chisels, impact wrenches, ratchet wrenches, nibblers, nail guns, staplers, etc plus ran on a couple of construction sites for a few months after the big site compressor was sent back to the rental agency. All I did was follow the maintenance schedule and regularly change the oil every 1,000 hours of run time and added an automatic condensate drain to the tank. If the bearing goes on the conrod most likely you aren't changing the oil often enough or with the correct non-detergent compressor oil which is designed to better deal with the moisture in compressed air. In 30 years the only thing I had to change was the regulator and pressure switch. What killed it was not noticing in time that the bearing at the fan end of the motor was getting rough until it had spun on the shaft and put it out of balance otherwise it would still be good for a few more years. I too am not a big fan of oilless compressors. As head of maintenance for a chain of factories it got a little old dealing with the damage/clogging of down line items that get particles from the oilless teflon/plastic/etc piston rings in them or how fast filters get clogged up by them. When adding an automatic condensate drain kit consider using copper tubing instead of the plastic included with most kits since it will usually last much longer especially if your working in a hot and humid semi-tropical environment such as Southern Florida. Just recently got the McGraw but may still try to turn down the shaft of the Central Pneumatic to put a repair sleeve on it to have for back up/reserve capacity. One thing I don't like on the McGraw is how they moved the tank drain to the front of the tank because while it is more convenient for people to reach its no longer in the bottom of the tank bowl and won't drain the tank as completely as a center drain unless you tip the compressor forward so that the drain becomes the lowest point on the tank. Best!
As a follow-up there are three different revisions of the 20 gallon McGraw Vertical Compressor and only one of them has what one might consider a compressor type twin capacitor motor while the others have a single capacitor more conventional motor. I ended up returning the first two I received before I got the one with the twin capacitor compressor motor. On the single capacitor models they add a second unloader valve on the head of the compressor which is not supposed to close until after the compressor motor gets up to speed and while the first two compressors I received had this valve on both it only worked correctly for a short time and then started closing too early locking the motor and then tripping the thermal switch. That this valve is defective can be verified by observing that it pops up and closes before the compressor motor gets up to speed jamming the motor and if you press down the pin sticking out of it fast enough (caution it can be hot enough to burn you) you can vent the head allowing the compressor to start. Perhaps they need to source a higher quality source for those "Start Valves". The third and last compressor I received had twin capacitors with no secondary unloader ("Start Valve") on the head and it has been running reliably now for about one month. If your considering one of these I would highly recommend trying to get the twin capacitor model when available. The compressor with the twin capacitors has the additional benefit of a more standard mounting for the compressor pump making it so the pump can more easily be transferred to a better tank with a central drain port. Best!
I recently bought one of these and the drain location was actually a plus for me. I'm tall and had both knees replaced last year so getting down on the floor to grope around for a drain valve is not a pleasant task. It's like kneeling on thousands of tiny hot needles. I have mine setup at the end of my workbench against the wall and I'm going to strap it to the wall with a cable just long enough so I can open the valve and then tip it forward until the drain port is at the bottom. When it's done I'll just tip it back up and close the valve.
@@7thkansascav468 If you have bad knees then the Central Drain with the Automatic Drain Valve Kit is the best solution for you. No check strap, tilting the compressor over, etc, etc. The side drain defeating the automatic drain kit is a 30+ year leap backwards. Once you've become accustomed to having an automatic drain that purges water from the tank every time your compressor cycles on or off it will be like returning to rubbing two sticks together o start a fire every time you want to make a cup of coffee. Best!
@@7thkansascav468 That still doesn't change the defective design that prevents installing a proper automatic condensate drain and requires one to take extra measures to safely tip the top heavy compressor in order to actually drain the condensate. Most people will only read the advertising about it being an improved design which it actually is not and need to realize what has to be done to actually drain the condensate from the tank. These compressors due to the inability to easily drain all the condensate from the tank without tipping them over require more constant monitoring and perhaps should be setup inside a safety cage. Best!
I bought one of these a couple weeks so and If you have got 5 years out of it without changing the oil that’s pretty good after using it that much. That tells me that with following the regular maintenance it will last probably 20 years or more. lol you better change that oil. You’re supposed to change the oil after the motor has an hour of run time on it 🤣. Just like a car, proper maintenance and they’ll run for a long time.
Thank you for making a True Review vid!!
I wanted to get one but wanted to see how it holds up after putting it to work.
100’s of vids of unboxing it and a 2-3 min review…. hearing what they think about it when they just opened the damn thing and “set up” what plug it in and turn it on, ok…..
Thank you again for a detailed and true review vid!
Thank you
Thanks for sharing your experience 👍🏻
Nothing compares to my old Devilbis and kellog but I’ve seen a central pneumatic 26gal 1.8hp oiless still running and pumping after 10 years of everyday use however the regulator leaked, the safety valve leaked and the other day I fixed the check valve by sanding and lapping the puck flat, oh and intake filter housing cracked at the crimped fitting.
Other that those easy to fix things it still pumps up 135lb in the sub zero temps we experienced in the last few days. I can’t believe we haven’t had to do reeds or a piston o-ring yet 😂 Even if it falls apart it served its purpose for what was paid for it.
The old black Central Pneumatic lasted 30 years for me with almost daily use from spraying paint, running muffler cutoffs, hot air plastic welders, nibblers, air chisels, impact wrenches, ratchet wrenches, nibblers, nail guns, staplers, etc plus ran on a couple of construction sites for a few months after the big site compressor was sent back to the rental agency. All I did was follow the maintenance schedule and regularly change the oil every 1,000 hours of run time and added an automatic condensate drain to the tank. If the bearing goes on the conrod most likely you aren't changing the oil often enough or with the correct non-detergent compressor oil which is designed to better deal with the moisture in compressed air. In 30 years the only thing I had to change was the regulator and pressure switch. What killed it was not noticing in time that the bearing at the fan end of the motor was getting rough until it had spun on the shaft and put it out of balance otherwise it would still be good for a few more years.
I too am not a big fan of oilless compressors. As head of maintenance for a chain of factories it got a little old dealing with the damage/clogging of down line items that get particles from the oilless teflon/plastic/etc piston rings in them or how fast filters get clogged up by them.
When adding an automatic condensate drain kit consider using copper tubing instead of the plastic included with most kits since it will usually last much longer especially if your working in a hot and humid semi-tropical environment such as Southern Florida.
Just recently got the McGraw but may still try to turn down the shaft of the Central Pneumatic to put a repair sleeve on it to have for back up/reserve capacity. One thing I don't like on the McGraw is how they moved the tank drain to the front of the tank because while it is more convenient for people to reach its no longer in the bottom of the tank bowl and won't drain the tank as completely as a center drain unless you tip the compressor forward so that the drain becomes the lowest point on the tank.
Best!
As a follow-up there are three different revisions of the 20 gallon McGraw Vertical Compressor and only one of them has what one might consider a compressor type twin capacitor motor while the others have a single capacitor more conventional motor. I ended up returning the first two I received before I got the one with the twin capacitor compressor motor.
On the single capacitor models they add a second unloader valve on the head of the compressor which is not supposed to close until after the compressor motor gets up to speed and while the first two compressors I received had this valve on both it only worked correctly for a short time and then started closing too early locking the motor and then tripping the thermal switch. That this valve is defective can be verified by observing that it pops up and closes before the compressor motor gets up to speed jamming the motor and if you press down the pin sticking out of it fast enough (caution it can be hot enough to burn you) you can vent the head allowing the compressor to start. Perhaps they need to source a higher quality source for those "Start Valves".
The third and last compressor I received had twin capacitors with no secondary unloader ("Start Valve") on the head and it has been running reliably now for about one month. If your considering one of these I would highly recommend trying to get the twin capacitor model when available. The compressor with the twin capacitors has the additional benefit of a more standard mounting for the compressor pump making it so the pump can more easily be transferred to a better tank with a central drain port.
Best!
I recently bought one of these and the drain location was actually a plus for me. I'm tall and had both knees replaced last year so getting down on the floor to grope around for a drain valve is not a pleasant task. It's like kneeling on thousands of tiny hot needles. I have mine setup at the end of my workbench against the wall and I'm going to strap it to the wall with a cable just long enough so I can open the valve and then tip it forward until the drain port is at the bottom. When it's done I'll just tip it back up and close the valve.
@@7thkansascav468 If you have bad knees then the Central Drain with the Automatic Drain Valve Kit is the best solution for you. No check strap, tilting the compressor over, etc, etc.
The side drain defeating the automatic drain kit is a 30+ year leap backwards.
Once you've become accustomed to having an automatic drain that purges water from the tank every time your compressor cycles on or off it will be like returning to rubbing two sticks together o start a fire every time you want to make a cup of coffee.
Best!
@@neilfromclearwaterfl81 I already have the McGraw and I am quite happy with it.
@@7thkansascav468 That still doesn't change the defective design that prevents installing a proper automatic condensate drain and requires one to take extra measures to safely tip the top heavy compressor in order to actually drain the condensate.
Most people will only read the advertising about it being an improved design which it actually is not and need to realize what has to be done to actually drain the condensate from the tank.
These compressors due to the inability to easily drain all the condensate from the tank without tipping them over require more constant monitoring and perhaps should be setup inside a safety cage.
Best!
I bought the 10 gallon version which has the same pump as that one. No complaints so far.
Hope you have good luck with it
Getting this one too, oil less is still prone to failure.
Yes it will Wear out but the life is longer on the pump side but most of them iv see the motor goes first
I bought one of these a couple weeks so and If you have got 5 years out of it without changing the oil that’s pretty good after using it that much. That tells me that with following the regular maintenance it will last probably 20 years or more.
lol you better change that oil. You’re supposed to change the oil after the motor has an hour of run time on it 🤣. Just like a car, proper maintenance and they’ll run for a long time.
Yeah I'll get to it one day I ges
Mine quit in less than 20 hours runtime. I even followed the break in and changed the oil
The pump finally wore out on my last month it lasted 7 years I'm see if I can get a rebuild kit for it and make video on that
Yeehaw boy
I've had mine for about 3 yrs and just shit out on me but I'm just going to put a 15$ reed kit in it and should be good.
I thank you can get a rebuilt kit comes with new piston and rings pretty cheep on line ant much in there
Gawd dayum
5 years? Some people can't even push it for 5 hours, and it breaks 😂. Gotta give it a try i guess.