Turf Type Tall Fescue Maintenance Plan & Annual Care Schedule (Fertilization and Disease Control)
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- čas přidán 30. 09. 2020
- Everything you need to know about caring for a tall fescue lawn can be found in this video and on my site here: turfmechanic.com/turf-type-ta...
Links mentioned in this video include:
► TTTF vs K31 Tall Fescue - • Kentucky 31 vs Turf Ty...
► What Potassium Does For Your Lawn - • What Does Potassium Do...
► Dandelion Control Tips - • When is the Best Time ...
You can see this post on the TurfMechanic site for more on overseeding your lawn based on the season: turfmechanic.com/overseed-you...
Many of the products mentioned in this video are those that you can find at virtually any local big box store and they tend to be cheaper there too. For some of the specialty products however those tend to be found only online.
I've provided links to many of those misc. products on my website but the two main one's that I think would benefit TTTF in the summer include the liquid aeration product from Chemwise and Hydretain. Affiliate links to those are listed below:
► Hydretain - shrsl.com/2j7ak
For Water Retention
► Simple Aeration - shrsl.com/2gr1v
Source of Humic Acid & Potassium for Overcoming Heat & Drought Stress
If you don't own a spreader I do fancy the battery powered 2-gallon spreaders from TurfKing but the inexpensive hose-end sprayers work pretty good too. For granular's the Scott's EdgeGuard is the one I use because it works just fine for regular people's yards and it has an edge guard without costing too much.
Links to these products can be found on my site on the fescue maintenance page: turfmechanic.com/turf-type-ta...
For the core aeration the best aerator is probably the one you rent from a local tool rental shop. If you want to own something however many people like to pickup the super affordable corded aerator that SunJoe makes. Links to that and some alternatives can also be found on my site linked above.
I do however recommend most people to own a manual long-handled core aerator for regular use throughout the year. This tool will get stored right next to your garden rake and will be used periodically all the time if you are anything like me.
You might be able to find a good manual core aerator in a local store but I find the best deal is usually the budget offerings on Amazon. This Amazon affiliate like takes you to the one that I bought last winter which I've been happy with: www.amazon.com/Yard-Butler-De...
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Thank you for this video. Starting to change to TTTF in a couple of weeks. I live in Missouri and nice shoutout in the video! Lol
I'm guessing you're going to continue to have more followers. Incredibly helpful.
Thank you for this! I live in the desert in Southern California and a lot of this information will be very helpful.
You’re videos are extremely helpful and enjoyable! Thank you for sharing!
You're welcome, thank you so much for your comments! Glad it helped 😊
Great info! I like the extended information of your videos.
Thanks Greg! I appreciate your comment and hope you'll find future vids to be just as informative.
Just subscribed. Great info, excellent speaker. Good job, brother!!!!!
Thanks a bunch JP! I'm more of an educator less of an entertainer; I'm glad there are people out there that appreciate that. :D Thanks for the sub; hope you enjoy the content!
Great informative video, Brian.
Thanks for the detailed information regarding TTF…I definitely didn’t know the roots went that deep. I think I’m going to switch from KBG to TTF this fall. Just too hot in Maryland for KBG.
Lot of inf thank you Brian
Great info!!
Excellent. Thank you.
Great information! With MLB playoffs in full swing, perhaps you can interview a major league grounds crew worker via a phone or web call and ask them what it takes to maintain a lawn throughout a season. Team contact info at their websites...these guys would love to share their tricks of the trade....they are the forgotten heroes of the game....
#PLAY BALL
#LETS GO OAKLAND
What a cool idea, I'll consider doing that, it would be pretty interesting to hear their take on stadium maintenance compared to residential maintenance. Go A's, game time in 3-hours 45-min!
Im about to try levelling and overseeding my Minnesota yard with Turf Type Tall Fescue this spring. It juat snowed on March 22nd though.
Planning to do another round come fall. Hoping the yard will look as nice as the ones in these videos soon
You have me watching these vids now as I'm trying to fix lawns in the North east region at two houses. One is bad with weeds and just splotches or bunches of what i think is fescue here and there, looks like desert its that bad. Was more weeds but i put a weed killer down last fall now its dirt with occasional fescue clump and some weeds, lots crab grass. Started with turf fescue to fix and trouble getting it to all come up just more bunches added to other bunches, now i am trying kentucky midnight in little areas hoping it might spread.
thank you!
Thank you 😊
Thanks again mister great video
I love hearing that! Thanks Wilvert; it was a bit long but I still know I left some stuff out that I'm kicking myself about. Thanks for watching and showing up in the comments :)
Turf Mechanic we really appreciate it. You give a better information then what I can get on the stores. Keep continue make it videos and thanks again
Thank you very much since I watch you videos my lawns is getting better I’m learning a lot of from people like you.
Awesome!!!!
You do a great job with your videos. I enjoy them. I have a turf type tall fescue lawn which does very well in the south exposure on Long island. It is a beautiful lawn. However, I do not like it to be too tall because I work in the garden beds a lot and walking on it when too tall knocks the blades down, and they don't pop up for mowing. It is especially problematic when wet. It grows quickly, so it's cut at no higher than 3 inches. The question I have is whether tall fescue is prone to thatch. I tend to get a lot of straw like thatch which I find when using my Greenskeeper dethatching rake when I start to feel areas getting spongy. My grass is mowed weekly and the cut grass is not left in the lawn. What do you think is going on?
Great video! I overseeded last fall with TTTF and plan to do again this fall. If I can get water down deep and the roots chase it will the roots stay down and keep growing down during dry periods or will they work back up for shallow water? I planted this mainly because my lawn was exposed to K31. I noticed how green those areas were and researched what it was. This is how I found out about TTTF. Should I expect TTTF to stay as green as K31? The areas of K31 were beautiful green next to dormant KBG.
Awesome video! Thank u. I just recently moved into my 1st single family home here in Northern VA and I wanted to know if it's too late to put pre-emergent and fertilizer on my lawn? I've already cut my lawn a few times. The temp around here is in the 80s. Thank u
Hey Brian, I am going to be doing a big commercial seeding job for a client this fall, and I'm looking for something heat and drought tolerant, as the grass won't be cared for very well past establishment and is in a very sunny area. I was planning on using TTTF, but I'm up North in Toronto which obviously is not the transition zone. It gets very cold in the winter, but it also gets very hot at times too (80-90F temps in the summer aren't uncommon). Just wondering your thoughts on this. Thanks.
I just laid some Bluegrass late May everything is doing great seems healthy roots have established nicely haven’t used any fertilizer. I’m wondering if i should core aerate my yard this fall to push those roots lower before winter. i live in Wyoming and we get some tough winters. But i’m curious if maybe my grass will still be too young for fertilization and core aeration by fall. What would you recommend?
When would you apply post emergent? The yard is 30% grass/70% grass. I just applied pre emergent last week. But when do I take care of the weeds that have been around?
I live in west Texas and just picked some random fescue at tractor supply and let me tell you it is beautiful so I went back and got more and seeded on the other side of my lawn took a week and a half to sprout I do live in west Texas and I water 1 hour in the morning and an hour in the evening what else do I need for my area
Can I assume the same procedure for a regular fescue lawn? Great video BTW.
What type grass do you recommend for a mostly sunny backyard that has a dog in the Mid-Atlantic region?
I'd love some professional input.. I have turf type tall fescue... My question, I don't know the blend used when it was put down, just the type.... If I have some spots that need touched up or when it's time to overseed will using another blend "look" different or does all turf type tall fescue look similar enough you wouldn't notice?
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Ok, I'm that stating that this content is golden. Ok I'm done. great content
I would have liked you to compare summer stress between a TTTF and KBG.
Now that you mention it I really should have added some detail on summer stress differences between K31 and TTTF. TTTF will resist summer heat stress better than K31 and it can usually be grown further south than K31, this is another reason why it's such a great Transition Zone grass and cold season grass. I am planning some comparisons and grow tests on KBG and on Perennial Rye in the future too but probably not for a few months because I actually have to grow the pots of grass along the way. I'm thinking this will be good winter material for the channel, hopefully you're subscribed and will see those when they come out.
How do you work out keeping it tall and over seeding? If I have it 4" when I over seed, after giving the seedlings time to grow it'll be a foot.
The trick is to not overthink it too much. When you overseed just cut your grass one notch lower, let's call it 3.5", then water heavy to get good soil moisture. Wait a day or so for grass blades to dry then overseed. If you do this in the fall fescue can germinate in 7-10 days easy. I've germinated it in 6 days in a controlled environment before. I'd mow again around day 7 or 8 just before most of the seedlings start sprouting then let the grass grow a bit longer than usual and then start cutting at 4" again. There should be plenty of established grass there to protect the seedlings enough from a few mower wheel marks.
Before aeration & overseeding, I like to scalp to where I can just barely see the soil, and bag the clippings (I don't bag usually). When the new grass is ready to be cut, the whole lawn is ready.
Is liquid aeration a permanent replacement for machine aeration?
In my opinion they are complimentary- I do both in my lawn regularly. Early spring and early fall I core aerate and throughout the year a few times I apply liquid aeration. Their combined efforts are unmistakably good for the lawn... however doing liquid only will be better than doing nothing and better in different ways from doing mechanical only. There is a ton I could say about this. When I core aerate I hire a local company to come out and do it for me ($200 approximately) I then top dress with stuff I cant easily get into the soil otherwise like worm castings, azomite, biochar, compost, etc. The liquid aerate adds potassium, humic acids, and other goodies that break molecular bonds in the soil making it less hard while stimulating more biological life in the soil. Either is great on its own but combined these two do wonders for a lawn.
I live in North Carolina and I have just planted turf tall fescue. I was wondering if I should plant winter rye grass in late September. Would that be a good idea? What are your thoughts?
I probably wouldn't if I were you because your area probably dips below 32 during the off-season. Freezing temps will kill annual rye just like 90 degrees temps will. Let me know if I'm wrong about your winter weather though.
@@TurfMechanic it does dip below 32 some & above 90 some, but not consistently.
@@TurfMechanic what grass would you recommend?
I'd recommend sticking with the tttf you just planted and doing a bit heavier fertilization in the fall possibly more frequently than you may be used to to keep the grass looking it's best during the off season. OSU did a really great video a few years ago documenting a winter fescue turf quality trial out of Corvallis Oregon, similar winter weather to NC I believe. Conclusion is .8 to 1.2 lbs of N in Sept Oct Nov and December keeps the grass looking great all winter long. Watch their video on the study here, it's 20 min long and worth every min of your time czcams.com/video/RRGOO2e9Dss/video.htmlsi=gU3ovugf3fDqWrVp
Even when dethatching???
I don't think there are many or even any slow release liquid fertilizers. A water soluable fertilizer that is slow release....doesn't exist unless your spraying your fertilizer with something other than water?
There are different nitrogen sources that are slow release in liquid form although they may be still faster than many granular organic products. Look at labels, many liquid products blend their nitrogen sources to provide some quick release for a burst of effectiveness and some slow release for sustained feeding. Methylene urea is an example of a source that is slow release and can be found in liquid products. It is largely broken down by microbial activity in the soil, the more activity you have the faster it is "released". Currently I've been applying Simple Geen from ChemWise, over half of its nitrogen source is Urea Triazone which is also a slow release source. In general they may be less common or less obvious but slow release liquids exist for sure.
This is a great video but I do disagree with your watering strategy. I believe that It is better to water less frequently but if you only do it one time a week and you have 90 some degree days then that water is going to dry up. Then you're gonna leave the lawn more susceptible for a longer period of time to heat stress and drought stress vs watering every few days.
I have TTTF in my lawn in central Virginia. We are a hot, humid mess in the summer. I have tried to maintain the lawn at 4 - 4.5” but every time I do this by August 1 it is flopping over, matting down and gets disease issues. I have been pretty strict about using fungicide but that doesn’t seem to help. I mow 2x per week and can do so because I have irrigation. Any suggestions as to how to counteract the issue of fescue laying down?
Use a growth regulator.
I have that problem also. Have you found a solution?
Linda J Hambleton only response was one person suggesting a pgr which I won’t try. I find cutting the grass down to 3-3.5” August 1 seems to help.
My favorite grass i hate the bermuda crab grass
Dude your sprinklers are super slow. Mine put down 1 inch in 30 minutes.
Some like it slow and steady 😉😲
I thought tall fescue was very good for more shaded areas.... otherwise everything I've read is wrong!!!!!
It's possible you are thinking of fine fescue which is often used in sun/shade mixes up north and seeded by itself in many full shade locations. I may be adding a section of straight fine fescue to a full shade portion of my property this spring or early fall.
@@TurfMechanic specifically says this "heat, drought and shade tolerant"
Yes, sorry to confuse, it is tolerant but nothing like fine fescue. Just wanted to make sure that was clear. Fine fescue is the most shade tolerant of them all.
@@TurfMechanic I have “shade tolerant” TTTF in my back yard, very shady, we just had people over after 2 weeks of super hot weather and the area where we set up the cornhole boards is totally wrecked, down to bare dirt in some spots. The grass just gave up and died from what can tell. Not sure there’s much we can do, except trim some branches and start over in the fall in this area