Rover 75: A look at the front brakes
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- čas přidán 2. 10. 2020
- Let's have a look at the front brakes on my newly-acquired Rover 75 CDT. I was told that boots were missing, but now I'm not so sure...
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A simple trick I have used over the years on fastenings in blind holes. Press a finger in the hole for a few seconds then look at the indentation in your finger end. Even gets you the correct size.
That's an excellent tip
@David Ankers No. Merchant navy engineer. Then offshore oilfields around the world.
Works for your metric fingers but we SAE here in the states ... ;-)
The thumbnail image on this video is just brilliant! My exact form for humor
Just so you know it's a 7mm allen ! - The front (and rear) Slide Pins dont have boots (They slide through a thick rubber mount - well to be accurate they are fixed in the calliper carrier and the rubber bit in the caliper slides over them !) but are Stainless Steel ! - The pistons do have boots ! or at least should ! - fitting new boots to the pistons looks hard but is easy once you know the secret !
I have done many many brake overhauls and upgrade jobs on the cars over the last 10 years of owning the same vehicle since 2010 ! - it's now closing hard on 219,000 miles ! (MG - ZT-T)
Please feel free to contact if you need any info or advice !
indeed a 7mm, some key sets have them & others don't, I thought it was only Vauxhall's that had that odd size.
@@suznet
Allmost all cars that have an allen has 7mm.
Ford brakes usually use a 7mm Allen key too.
@@suznet Mmmmm I remember in the 70's and 80's loads of OEM went over to this sort of design ! Vaux/Ford/VW ? learnt then to always buy full sets of bits as you will always end up needing the missing one sooner or later !
Fiat use the 7mm Allen key, I had to buy it as its not in my set. It's not used much so I hung it up on the wall of the shed so it's easy to find...
"No point trying to use a small hammer" Man after my own heart.
I call mine a "persuader"
small hammers have there use though mostly hitting things in tight places were big hammers can't go, plus if the hammer does work, mister blow touch will,
In America we call that a BFH (Big Friggin Hammer) but we also occasionally use a little BFH
Ants that's what I call mine too, don't faff about hit it with a little weight n crack job done 👍🍺🍺
Russian watchsmith"s Number 1
"Found my cera tech which is an achievement in its self" 🤣🤣
Perfect. Can’t beat a decent bit of hubnuttery on a wet Saturday afternoon.
I've got rattly brakes on my Citroën C5 that no mechanic seems to know how to fix. These brake-fettling videos are pure gold, after watching them I feel confident enough to tackle my own because it they show it's not THAT hard. I think.
are they on the rear by chance?
there's a strange problem with the C5 on the first generation brakes that they'll corrode very slightly on the carrier between the mounting bolts and the carrier which will push the carrier and caliper to the point where they're no longer parallel with the disc. It doesn't take much to move it off square so it's frequently rubbing off the disc when driving.
Look from dead above and see if the caliper is kicked outwards and is no longer parallel.
it's fixable but because french, no one seems to know this.
@@spuriouspodge7416 thanks very much for the advice. It's not 1st gen but I'll have a look anyway
@@torresalex could be missing anti rattle pins. I had the same issue with my volvo. The rattle disappeared under braking 😏
Loving the videos Ian, looking forward to seeing the 75 getting even better.
I love doing brakes on cars,its very satisfying to take off old components and swop them for new....the change in braking is amazing
Good job Ian 👌
"I love doing brakes on cars"
Said nobody ever.
Want to do mine :)
@@GlamStacheessnostalgialounge said nobody ever..... Except the person you're replying to.
It's looking cleaner than I had first expected. Looks a good 'un, as they say. Many happy days and videos to come along, in her! I'm still glad I didn't touch that little one litre job I was 'offered'! Yes, it does rain a lot in Scotland...but it's home. Cheers HubNut! Keep Well, chap!
That first round of tinkering,for those of us who have walked the green mile with you, on previous hub nuttery brake services, was bordering on therapeutic, Sir, l salute you!🏅
I have always found brake work quite enjoyable for some strange reason. I also wouldn't have minded watching you do the other side even though it is a repeat process. Keep on tinkering Ian.
Absolutely love your videos buddy.....It is so relaxing watch you tinker, tweak and fettle with really interesting cars....keep up the fantastic videos!!
Good job Ian, happy daze, look forward to more vids, take care mate.
Fabulous video ian. I look forward to every one of them. Cheers.
Loving that 75! thanks Ian
Elly trying to get in the shot again as you bought 75 inside have lovely weekend
I'm not going to lie, when you dropped the car from the axle stand, at the end, I was half expecting a "CLUNK" and an "oh....oh dear...oh dear oh dear" from you! xD
Great vid. Very satisfying to see stuff like that being done.
I like watching your movies, because this makes my peaceful.
i really like the 75, i hope it will stay on the fleet for a longer time
Even my ZT Diesel with the larger 325 mm brakes doesn’t have booties. But in the 6 years of having 75s & ZTs they’ve never really caused issues with sticking. The piston on the other hand has stuck a few times but has worked great with a wee rebuild kit. Hope you enjoy the 75, I love my diesel (when she works!)
I must say you are much more brave than I ever could be! I disliked doing something relatively simple as an oil and filter change, although changing air and cabin filters are within my way of maintenance without getting dirty. For me it was extremely difficult to find a good yet affordable mechanic. Bravo for job well done!
Excellent Hammer action, i love it, sort the brakes out on all the vehicles i own, replace calipers,discs and shoes when needed , so good times for you.
"Seems very happy in there" the Bob Ross way is best, top job 👍
Great video Ian brilliant tinkering
Nice one great video looking forward to the back one's being done
it's a brave man that buys a car with more or less no MOT. Hope it all goes well. Keep an eye out for the postman, I'm sure you will be getting about ten Haynes Rover 75 manuals any day now.
The Haynes manuals increase Ian's car resale value I think.
I've never understood why people are so scared of buying cars with short or no MOT's.
In the UK any car is going to need one at some time between immediately and 12 months so I'd rather have a new purchase inspected for roadworthiness straight away and have anything needed rectified before putting it to use rather than wait months for it to get worse, potentially cause more expensive issues and land you with the same bill or more anyway, just at a later date.
Lovely Jubbly, back to what he does best.
In cable ties we trust..... Excellent tinkering video as always Mr Hubnut.
I am loving the 75
The more I watch the better the Rover 75 gets. Hope you have many miles of motoring..
That blue handled allan key is the correct tool to use for that job.I cut 15mm off the end of mine to use in a socket to remove the slider pins quicker. You'll see more of the slider pin as the pads wear,it's normal for that to happen.
Thank you Ian, I will fix my brakes soon, that will be useful :)
I'm actually starting to feel some luuuurve from you for this car now Ian. Splendid machine. Is it a 'keeper' though? We await in the greatest of anticipations.
There's a 75 that is identical to yours in my local town, been with the same owner (or at least same house) for over 8 years at least, maybe since new. They are vanishing from the roads though, I remark when I see one passing.
My 75 was a 115 bhp, but some nice chap at the 75 & ZT owners club reprogrammed the ECU to 160. Blimey did it go well, and more economical too!
Thank you Ian nice video to watch with a brew 😊👍
Learning your way around the car. The brakes look excellent, particularly when compared to what the Delica was hiding. Dare I say it's looking promising? Cheers
Quite happy with boring tinkering. Very therapeutic. Keep up the good work 👍
Hi Ian hope you are all well, 1st round of tinkering to you, nice straight forward job, keep it up,
Ha love the drift stitching. Top video hubnut 👍👏👏
I saw a 75 identical to yours in the way to Edinburgh the other day. My first thought was you’d brought yours back to the guy 😂👍
watching ur 75 vids, i now want 1! just ordered a james taylor book ' rover 75 and mg zt ' history etc!
I love brake overhaul videos, maybe because it’s a job I get to do myself frequently and hence I can feel connected to the subject. I do also watch South Main Auto channel which is a mechanic in USA who does a lot of brake videos in a area where everything gets really crusty and rusty. I’m loving this Rover 75.. for years I have thought about getting a Rover 75
Hope the car turns out to be a keeper had my Rov75 sixteen years now just love her Rob
Good video once again, it is nice to hear that you are beginning to enjoy your 75. It looked like the back plate behind the drum assembly was a bit bent in a couple of places, they may need straightening out or replacing.
This car is improving day by day!!.
thanks for posting yet another great video mate, Im in the process of getting my fords brakes done and im getting the master cylinder and booster replaced in a few weeks. not a cheap job but worth it. my AU Fairmont Ghia other than that has been quite good.
I like your ideas on dealing with brakes. So many places just replace everything. I have found that doing what you have done often completly cures brake judder. Sounds silly but it's worth it though to property torque the wheel bolts.
Completely agree. Judge all parts and their mounting / mating of surfaces etc. Only replacing certain parts doesn't always solve an issue.
Not only torque the wheel nuts, but recheck after 100 miles. Here in Central Ontario, any smart driver has two sets of tyres. Just after the spring and autumn tire change too many cars find a wheel taking off because the lug nuts were not torqued correctly and not checked. Helps to know the spec, too. My 1990 Volvo 240 requires 63 ft/lb, and most shops zip them to 100 with the impact driver, in spite of me making the point. Drives my batty.
Always liked these cars. Not a huge rover fan but there is something about the 75 that is appealing
Oh you finally caught on!!😁
Oh Ian....... you Tinker(er)
Great to see you puzzled but pleased once more as you fiddle with cars........ without the 3 hour commute there and back again. :)
Having re-watched the Rover 820 collection capers this morning, repairing rusted Rover brakes seems very de-ja-vu right now... :P
She is certainly a lovely looking car.... Did anyone else shudder when Ian got the hammer out? We have a gaot farm down the road from where I live... go past it every morning on the morning dog walk.
that was very good, I learnt some thing there.
If I remember correctly, the missing pin on the dash clocks is part of the clear cover that you found in the boot.
Another thing to look out for on the diesel 75 is the crankshaft pulley. It's two different parts bonded together.
I had 2 give up on my 75, one of them half way back up through France.
Love the 75's.
I drove my newly acquired 75 home, around 130 miles from where I picked it up. It drove rather nicely, brakes seem to work quite well although the handbrake needs some attention, which I was already aware of when I bought the car.
Handbrake is notorious, the cable "frame" stretches and handbrake loses effectiveness. Replace with one from the first generation of the new Mini - the Rover / BMW one.
As soon as you said Allen bolt I knew it was 7mm. I've done many of these type of front brake calipers. As you've rightly said, copper grease is a big no-no on the pins. The discs and pads have plenty of life left in them so the front brakes are now 100%.
Normally there would be a plastic cap covering over the allen head screw, similar to the calipers I had on my old Sierra.
Correct. There was.
My bad - just re-watched it! I had one seize once because the cap was missing and it was all full of crud :-(
I am liking the Rover really like the colour
You are correct, no 'boots' required on those sliders.
I found myself shouting at the screen ‘it’s a 7mm’ for the caliper slides. Then you produced the correct tool for the job 😁. Usually if they are really tight, a little heat from a heat gun melts the threadlock and they come out much easier. Hope that helps
If a heat gun don't work, the heat from operating the brakes sure will... the first time it is driven in traffic after use.
RTFM! love it.
I would suggest investing in a hex / torx bit set that can be used with a ratchet. Much quicker and easier getting calliper slides out.
Amazon do a bag of clips for a tenner,the may work for the liner
good work, now for the inner wheel covers, all those little fixings
I love your rover and I think it’s a great car. Pete 🇬🇧
That Allen Key was definitely made for that job 👍
I always thought the 75 was a very good looking car,but looks wise,my preference was the estate version.
The estate version is my favourite as well. I think some had the option to have the rear glass open up like a Range Rover.
@@bentullett6068 All the Estate's have the opening glass in the tail gate both R75 amd MG ZT-T (Tourer's don't you know ?) LOL !
@@andrewsteed3048 Thought they did. That's why I like them. I tend to like all estate car versions of cars as they look so much better than the saloon cars.
Ian Callum was behind the estate. A very talented designer.
@@HubNut
I was on the A50 between Derby and Uttoxet the other week and was following a white gold (was it still called white gold by then?!) 75 Tourer... V8!
Looked and sounded glorious and I only saw it for two roundabouts until it was a distant spec on the horizon!
Binding brakes is part of 75 life!
The tapered leading and trailing edge pads are often marketed as 'anti squeal/chatter' pads, or sometimes as 'fast bite/bed in' pads as the reduced surface area gives a higher pressure per square cubit and lets new pads seat into used discs faster.
Wot, no failures? Good job done. Get those fan working asap ( and the ignition key if it hasn't been done already)
Ford 7mm allen !! I've had to buy one for various Land Rovers and they are the same on some Volvos. The boots you have are correct.
Those front brakes are pretty much exactly the same setup as both Golfs I had. There is indeed no boot / protection for the pins other than there should be an end cap to stop dirt getting in to the hex on the end. You don't even need to lube the pins just keep them clean with a wire brush every brake change. In fact if anything because they are open to the elements, lube will attract and hold on to detritus and cause them to stick, best just to keep them dry.
Like the drift fix. Untoward noise's coming from brakes has me every time. I had a similar issue with my c class estate, I was adamant a scrap noise was coming from the front. By using the chalk method on the disc's the right front was very slightly warped new disc's and pads later problem not solved, rear handbrake shoe area was at fault. Damn why do we bother!
Others have answered but that calliper design is used by many manufacturers, it is correct you can see the slider pin, it’s worth having some spare if you keep the car as they inevitably end up caked in crud.
Don't forget the cooling fans! Especially since you will be with the Ms and the wee ones.
So pleased a job appeared to go smoothly. Other comments below worry about the lack of thread lock, surely here on Hubnut; rust = thread lock and large hammer = torque wrench with one setting (FT)
A love affair begins between one Man and his Rover. Must say that the hair is looking very presentable these days Ian. 👍
Always amazes me when I see people struggle with the rear side of calipers when all you need to do is turn the wheel outwards... makes life so much easier
great youtube video thankyou
Ian don't forget to take out and clean the EGR valve, they are usually well clogged up
Ian, if you look at this month's (October 2020) edition of Car Mechanics magazine, there is a bit about Rover MEMS ECU systems, including new software for reading it and where to get the correct cables for accessing it. I thought that might be useful for you, you can use a laptop to run the software and interrogate the vehicle electronics...
Used the ziptie bumper repair many times haha.
Good looking car, the 75. I always preferred it to Jaguar’s S Type, released around the same time, I think. I thought the Rover looked more modern and cleaner designed, whilst still harking back to Rovers of old. Nice colour, Copperleaf Red, too. My dad had a 1.6 petrol 25 in the same shade. That was a decent steer, comfy, handled well and pretty nippy. The 75 is one of those rare cars that looks good in most colours. The Wedgewood Blue was a personal favourite, but they did a paleish green, a navy blue and British Racing Green if I remember correctly, that all suited the car. Looks pretty tidy underneath the Rover. I think you’ve got a decent example there Ian.
Interesting. I have used copper grease for these jobs for thirty years without any issues. It is called anti squeal paste for a reason.
Yo bro! luv de drift stitching. Well sick. 😉
My motto is use what you've got. Pound shops have a selection of greases now so I pick up whatever is available cheaply.
I've not always used it and never noticed any issues. Good quality lithium or graphite grease on all the moving sliding bits is a must though, sliders, pins, pad heels etc. If I have ever used copper grease I've only ever used it on the backs of the pads against the piston or pad carrier. Copper grease is ok to use on exposed cotter pins (think Austin Metro 4 pots) and can definitely keep corrosion and binding at bay but never on the internal sleeve 'pins' like those on most modern calipers as shown here.
One of the best ways to keep your brakes quiet is to file a rounded edged chamfer on any leading brake lining surfaces, works like a treat!
Copper grease makes (can make) the rubber bits to swell up. A very Hubnut C5 I got for free had completely seized slide pin from using copper grease.
Bror Appelsin thanks that is an interesting observation. I guess that the petroleum base grease could react with synthetic rubber. Neoprene should be proof though.
Copper Grease is more to stop stuff seizing rather than a lubricant. The pins proved the downside of the stuff with some very hard deposits that were tricky to remove.
Only drove a 75 once - V6 - on a 200+ mile test drive on mainly motorways. Struck me as very pleasant in a boring sort of way but it was the old mans car jokes that did it for me. Now I am an old man I suspect I would like it a lot more :).
From a born and bred Northamptonian... KN prefix on the reg indeed makes it a Northampton car. I've had a few KN cars as you might imagine :)
Just thinking exactly the same (as a Lutonian... think we had KA-KL, Northampton had KM-KY). If first registered in Colchester the prefix would have been EA-EY.
@Kevin Payne haha classic! Your dad was not wrong; unless I’m mistaken, our ‘K’ prefix regional identifier was the only one to have no relevance to the area. There were once wild rumours flying around that the ‘K’ stood for ‘Keynes’ (as in Milton Keynes). But alas, that was sheer nonsense! 😁
Always wondered why they didn’t just use the postcode letters where the vehicle was registered 🤷🏻♂️
Great job hope its not been running far without that wheel liner.I should get that fan fixed if you're stuck in traffic might over heat
Turn the heater on
Well I’m up in the north of Scotland there is no extra problems here you see plenty old classics around no problem, saying that I’ve been on the western islands some of them places don’t even have to have a MOT, no test centre, a number of years ago I was walking along a road on the island of Jura and somebody pulled up in a rover SD1 and offered me a lift which I was glad off, he promptly got out of the car come to the passenger-side and remove the door out of the frame. I got in and he placed the door back in the hole and of whe went with me sterling at the road through a hole in the floor
Another job done on the 75..👍👍
Will there be any merchandise for the rover Ian ?? 🙂🙂
Yes it a timing chain and it very good my 2005 R75 cdti auto is currently on 200k and just past it mot oil filter change every 10 to 12k follow the rover service plan to the letter and it's still going.
I didn't know these had BMW engines. I thought they ran L-Series power. But it did sound very quiet when you drove it into the garage for work. I do learn a lot of useful stuff from HubNut videos.
BMW for these, but the 25 and 45 kept using the old L Series. Freelander swapped from L Series to BMW.
Hi Ian, these are new brake pads, the hex is 7mm, I bought a 7mm hex socket for it, this size is used with much more modern brakes. The sliding pins are unprotected.
once upon a time, you could only get a 7mm allen key from a ford dealership. As it was the size they used for their brakes. And coincidentally, it was the only thing I ever needed a 7mm allen for.
You can never have enough lube ,😂👍
Same set up as a Vectra c..little tip for you if the pins don't slide properly remove the rubbers then run a drill bit round the hole to remove any oxidation build up which causes the rubbers to nip the slider pins...HTH..
The 7mm Allen key slider pin is quite a common fitment on Fords (and vehicles using Ford platforms), and I've also seen it on Vauxhalls. Wouldn't surprise me at all to find that it's exactly the same pin between the Fords, Vauxhalls and your Rover. The only time I've known them to seize is when copper grease was put on them - copper grease hardens and doesn't provide any lubrication properties at all. I use a silicone grease from BremTech on my sliders, and stuff called Pad Goo from BremTech on the pads. I only use copper grease between the alloy wheel and hub spigot.
When using normal Allen keys putting a large adjustable spanner on the bend gives you more leverage, I'd recommend investing (dirty word I know) in a Halfords Pro socket/spanner set, get them on a sale day, lifetime warranty, saves faffing with normal Allen keys.
The calipers look the same as the ones on my Passat, you can see parts of the pins. You should use some thread lock when you re fit them.
@David Ankers I've used it for years on a multitude of things, whats wrong with it.
@@iangrice329 A lot of people have no idea how to use, because they don't read the instructions, that's what's wrong with it, they slather it all over the thread and render it very difficult to remove. A blob or a smear at the start of the thread is all you need, screwing it in will spread it around enough to let it work as it should and allow it to be removed without a fight.
@@GeorgeSPAMTindle Well if you don't read the instructions then what do you expect? you cant blame a product for peoples stupidity.
@@iangrice329 I fully agree with you. I am a freelance Engineer and often work as a Technical Author, a job that I sometimes describe as 'writing the shit that no cunt reads'.