The Worst Thing You Can Do For Your AR
Vložit
- čas přidán 31. 05. 2020
- MOBILE USERS: Since the pinned comment doesn't seem to appear for you here it is: Problem solved! A reduced-power buffer spring did the trick and I was able to then reduce gas a little with the gas block. See how smoothly this rifle runs in the second video here: • Fancy Rifle Redemption!
If you've been around the block more than once you may have noticed that asking for advice on the internet can often be more trouble than it's worth, but I'm doing it. This "fancy rifle" build began with an F-1 Firearms receiver set, Aero Precision barrel, and POF DIctator gas block, but just won't run. Lightweight carrier and Odin Works light weight buffer and there's still not enough gas to run the gun.
Follow us on Instagram: / gbguns
5% off at Optics Planet with code, "GBGuns" we don't earn a dime but it shows you support us!
Find the gear we use and approve of: www.amazon.com/ideas/amzn1.ac...
Support this channel with some swag at www.cafepress.com/GBGunsMerch - Sport
Problem solved! A reduced-power buffer spring did the trick and I was able to then reduce gas a little with the gas block. We suspect the gas port is too small on this barrel as we KNOW the block is properly aligned. See the second video here: czcams.com/video/tjFRl6sO_GY/video.html See the article to learn about the myths perpetuated in the comments of this video: www.ballisticmag.com/impossible-ar-build-myths/
Graham Baates that’s what I was gonna suggest. Glad you fixed it! (Pew pew)
My 300 blackout pistol was shortstroking, a tubbs flat wire spring cured it.
So the rifle runs reliably now is what you’re saying?
👍👍
A tip I was given before I built my first upper. Seal the gas block to the barrel with blue loctite. Helps with any minor machining imperfections. Glad you got it running! Nice build!
I really thought this video was going to be about why it’s a bad idea to skeletonize your rifle
"Skeletonizing" a battle rifle or hunting rifle is a terrible idea...
That being said...
This is a toy - a fancy build that shoots once in a blue moon to flex on your buddies at the range...
I've got no beef with it.
@@keithridlen7122 yes to all of this comment. Some guns are for fun and some guns are for work.
Like wise… I think it’s ugly as hell.. would never do this to my rifles. But then again mine are set up for SHTF
We've got plenty of those. This is neither my first, nor only rifle. As said, it was an experiment.
Same
I don’t know much about guns, but I am an engineer that knows materials and physics... By reducing the mass of the components, you are reducing the inertia (i.e. heavy trucks are hard to stop). The spring has a lb/in rating, and I suspect that your components don’t have enough momentum and inertia to overcome the spring. In theory, if you reduce the force (mass x acceleration) going backward, then you should reduce the force going forward (the spring).
I’m not an engineer and I’ve only built cheap guns but my first thought is that light weight buffer is the problem, I would try replacing with a normal weight buffer and give it a shot
@@MrJag1269 Yeah, as soon as the gas can escape, the light-weight buffer snaps back before it can cycle. It needs more mass for it to have the momentum to fully cycle. The lighter weight he goes, the worse the problem will be. Obviously, if it's too heavy, it won't cycle at all, but too light, and it'll be at the mercy of the spring. There's a sweet spot he'll need to find.
I agree with this post, after the gas block gets the bolt moving, thats it. The gun uses inertia to eject the round without breaking the gun. you might want to try some lighter springs. Also try moving the gas block closer to the breach/longer barrel. Can also try a heavy block to increase inertia(Turn your gas block back down if you any of this!). Maybe drill and ream the gas port on the barrel slightly. Keep trying different stuff, it'll work I know it!
The reciprocating action of a firearm is like a see-saw; It can't work without a balance of forces. Your weapon is weighted too far in the return action to cycle the weapon. I'd start with lighter return springs! All in all, this is a sweet gun but you need a better pin setup. Those auto-escape detents are no good. (only thing I actually saw wrong with the gun.)
I'm no engineer however I agree. You're spring seems to be far to strong for the gas you are working with
I’m not an engineer, therefore I cannot give my opinion on this matter.
Everything about this build triggers me. That thick af spring looks like a cars coil overs lmao.
Lmfao 😂 the 370z of ar-15s
Why would you want to cycle anything but shit-hot reloads?
LOL, I was thinking that was heavier than what I have on my '66 Ford Bronco and my springs are 33% heavier than stock...
Just took a ibuprofen after watching this
Aint no way
It was a simple fix and proved a lot of keyboard gunsmiths wrong.
I had this happen to me on a build. Drove me crazy. Grabbed parts from every rifle and pistol I owned, to have "Light Weight" everything, for cycling issue. In the end, it was the buffer spring. I put in an old very used and relaxed spring.... runs like an old singer. Go figure
Singer made 1911s during WWII.
The buffer was actually what i was going to say I’ve seen a few videos where changing the buffer solved the problem
But it wasn't the buffer
@@GBGuns yeah mine either. It was the spring. Once I added the weak spring I could put everything back that I changed out chasing down the problem. And it ran. Great.
I had same issue, it was my spring. Got a lesser weight rated spring and UT fixed the issue
6:00 got all these light weight parts but that spring came off 1ton truck
Buffer spring is ridiculous
For real all I’m thinking watching this
The worst thing you can do to your AR is have it “skeletonized”
Eh I think it's cool for a range toy, but I wouldn't trust it on a gun for home defense or SHTF or whatever.
First thing I thought was how much "gunk" is going to end up in the upper. Might look cool, but, I prefer Bang every time I squeeze.
Only in combat. Recreational shooting should not get sand in it. Unless you drop it
@@dalea1691 You don't think dust and sand doesn't get blown around outside of combat?
Not in here. East coast florida. But yeah, I didn't think out west
I’ve found low mass bolt carries to short stroke. Increase spring tension/ heavier bolt carrier/ or even H2/3 buffer. Low mass allows the bolt to cycle to soon. Not building up enough pressure in your gas key to send a full cycle.. but just my 2 cents
Yup causes too much bolt bounce, i guess in his defense its an 18in barrel w a rifle length gas tube so id expect you dont need much weight in the buffer but than again the dwell time is pretty short.
Yes! that's definitely a experienced perspective! I'd agree
Forget the gas bud. You have an adjustable block so you can find tune from there. Focus on the buffer 1st. I'd get an adjustable buffer and a couple of different springs .....just my opinion. Best of luck bro
No extra friction...it's not enough pressure bc of such low mass. Go the other way with the buffer, go heavier!... again, just MY opinion.
"Everything fits smoothly." Meanwhile the buffer spring is sticking out 400 meters. 😄
Am I the only one noticing the missing Buffer tube detent? 🤔
Nope, nor the only one who would likely gain from the article
Uhh yea missing it but shouldnt be the reason for short stroking. Unless the bcg is hitting the tube but he clearly showed no wear marks. Or spring binds on the lip of the tube.
The bcg always touch the buffer when mated together.
That buffer spring is THICC
You need a carbine buffer spring. The rifle springs have 41 to 43 coils, and the carbine springs have 37 to 39 coils. The brand-new length of the springs is approximately 12.75″ for the rifle and 10.5″ for the carbine springs.
In car racing we call it coil bind… first thing i thought of when he said carbine length tube
Holy skeletonized batman, god what happened to that poor rifle
The gas block being exposed like that was by far the worst thing about this
You've never seen an M16 or M4 eh?
@@GBGuns ehhhhh no, but still.
Well, military rifles going all the way back to the AR 601 have their gas block exposed. Check out the article
@@GBGuns i dont mean to trigger you, your comments seem a tad defensive but is it atleast dimpled? I clearly dont see pins and thats what keeps the m4 fs from getting knocked off center. I bought one of the 5 set screw m4 style ones and (back when they were "ok" fed fed boys) ran a few mags with my bumpstock. No issue sat it done relatively hard and the table at my range and slid over pretty far. I dont think youd have to much of an issue since its clearly a bench gun.
90% sure its spring, (edit) yeah when i saw how far spring came out of tube and how thick the spring was i am now like 98% sure its spring.
Yeah? My buffer tube is all the way into my stock.. it doesn’t come out into the upper receiver like his
That seemed normal to me, but Its worth trying.
I use JP silent captured spring and I removed my buffer tube detent to make it easier to get out (mayb this dumb lower is trying to be cool and not have one at all). Mine runs fine tho it means whenever I take it down, spring will just spill out.
I agree with thomas there should be a stopper that doesn't allow the buffer to come out I bet 100% that's the issue the way it sits now it's getting jammed making it only allow to go half way
@mark you should read the article
@@GBGuns I think it’s either dwell time and/or the buffer spring. If you have a suppressor, try putting that on the rifle. A suppressor should extend the dwell time by letting less pressure escape so quickly.
Another thing could be your gas port may not be lined up 100% correctly where it is being under gassed even if the port is fully open.
Try this buffer spring
www.righttobear.com/RTB-AR15-M4-REDUCED-POWER-Carbine-Buffer-Spring-p/877-rp-y.htm
With all that light weight stuff, my brain immediately went to the buffer spring. Lighter parts don't have the momentum to cycle on a mil-spec buffer spring. Glad you got it figured out!
That spring made a HORRENDOUS noise then the charging handle was cycled.
When I heard "carbine length buffer system", then saw how stiff the spring was, then a rifle length gas system, I knew you had too much non-matching stuff going on there. I thought a mid-length gas system might do it with an 18" barrel, but then the comments zeroed in on the spring.
Glad it worked out that easily!
As soon as he said it cycled by hand but was stiff i knew it was the spring
@@micahschaefer8211 my first thought was he probably needs a heavier buffer to carry the momentum all the way through to cycle
@@micahschaefer8211 could have been gas block alignment or undersized porting
That's got to be it. My AR is very soft shooting, cycles like a 10/22 and weighs less than 3 lbs. I use a flat-wound spring from davidtubb.com made for carbine length .300BLK and a Taccom buffer. Whiskey bolt carrier w/ adjustable gas key, Ti pins and 9310 bolt. Dwell time might play a part also. I use a 16" mid length gas from Faxon.
those "lightning cuts" on the upper receiver are the stupidest things I've ever seen ... talk about a quick way to introduce dust and dirt...
yea, 100% agree!
Yes but no. On this gun not at all. It is a case queen and will never be a hunting rifle or prepper gun. This is like a lambo car. Hardly ever take it out and shoot it but is really cool when you do. I’m sure this isn’t his only gun....
Nope, just take a look at the channel, I have a few
@@jsf11fra yeah that makes sense to own something and not use it ... SMH ...
@@GBGuns no one ever questioned whether it was the ONLY one ... it is a STUPID one, for sure... case queen or not.
Also make sure your buffer spring is correct size. Looks like you have a rifle length spring in a carbine buffer tube.
I built one for my daughter that was short stroking. I changed the buffer spring to a Damage Industry spring and four years later still no issues.
Yeper that’s what I was thinking 😎
@@edbrenner6930 great idea before you spend your money check out your gas tube could be pinched ie restrictions, springs are cheap enough by the four pack multiple# . best wishes
I love the Damage Industries Enhanced springs. Have them in all my ARs.
@WalterDalton does the lighter spring increase felt recoil?
When I saw that spring, I was like holy shit is that a strut spring? 🤣🤣
i know looks like ar 10
It came off my car’s coil overs 😅
It was a coil over.
when you make everything lightweight the mass required to push your recoil spring back all the way isn't there. try putting a normal weight buffer and a lighter recoil spring
Not having that retainer might just be enough to keep it from firing twice. If the spring is riding against the carrier it is reducing the ability of the to travel all the way back.
I love the gun community. So many responses with constructive comments to help a fellow gun lover out of a bind. All of you are awesome!
@@michaelb2906 pretty sure it’s sarcasm🤷♂️
@@michaelb2906 everybody is an expert
That was kind of the point of the video: to help show the kinds of advice that is out there. Some of it excellent, other misguided, and then there are those who just want to find a way to criticize and not provide any real help.
@@GBGuns it’s a cool build even if I’d never do it, I’m glad you got it figured out man hoping to see more from ya
There have been dozens of videos since this one. We've got nearly 1,000 in all.
Some barrels have gas port holes undersized. I had the short stroke issue and drilled the port out a little bigger. Works fine now.
Definitely the issue.
Check the port size.
Those are my exact thoughts, bravo!
I had to do that to my friends factory Anderson
My thoughts as well
I'm going through a similar issue with mine. I've dialed the adj gas block on my 16 inch carbine. With no joy. I have the correct tube and barrel Mach up. I was going to just buy a regular gas block and try it but now after reading your comment I didn't think about the spring being too stiff. I will have to try that but my buffertoob spring doesn't seam stiff. Again I will have to try both. Just FYI my gas block is about 9 inch from the receiver and isn't as far forward as yours. So it stumps me. I'm going to try both and what doesn't work on this gun will go to another build.
The dwell time shortance may try to compensate by increasing a gas port and creating a gas backup pressure. Some muzzle devices may to use, such as silencers, large primary chamber muzzle brakes, etc.
That buffer spring looks pretty tightly wound...
Try a lighter spring weight
@Jussie Crowder Yes, they are spelled the same. Welcome to the English language, now get out.
I agree Spring is too stiff and missing the buffer retainer
@@troydavidson5661 Yeah I was like why is there no retainer strange video
No retainer and lighter spring?
I was right in my guess that it was the spring! Hype to have my limited AR knowledge validated by the comments. Glad it's fixed!
Your recoil spring is to heavy, AND NEVER SKELETONIZE an AR you're just asking for dirt and debris to foul your gun
Not everyone plays war with every rifle they own.
I could tell just by hearing you cycle your action. It’s your buffer spring. I think you chose a rifle length buffer spring.
Is it hard to lock the bolt back?
There should be a little pin that holds the buffer spring in the tube. It shouldnt always have tension on the bolt.
Exactly and this idiot turned the comments off no wonder it doesn’t work
I don't think you turned the comments off, but you might be accurate on your self assessment.
Some people don't run with a pin capturing the buffer. The guy forgot his name on InRange doesn't fearing it will break off and jam something up
The pin is just to hold the buffer and spring in the tube when you disassemble the rifle. Put the upper and lower together slowly (with the pivot pin already in) you'll notice the bcg will touch the buffer. It should always be pressed against each other, otherwise it'll impact the buffer everytime and damage it.
Imagine putting your fist against the wall (touching it) then push. Vs having your fist 1 cm away then push/ punch then push. Which will hurt more? Cause more damage?
yessir this fella here has the "right" answer. springs, buffers and bcg being of light weights are only an issue if/when the firearm is ovr gassed and the action becomes to violent and fast for reliable operation. if not for the missing spring detent I would suggest filing a form 1 or form 4 and attach an even cooler *break* then you could rest assured knowing that super sexy gucci break you graciously mailed me will forever be takin care of in good hands and going on some amazing adventures 😂
I know I'm late to the party, but short strokes are almost always spring related
I was about to say the same thing... too heavy of a spring
That's what I thought, it sounded like it was the only explanation
I was going to say it could be too stiff of a spring and maybe not a good enough seal somewhere around the gas tube
If you’re losing gas that could also cause your bolt to not function properly, right
I was gonna say spring as well, bht can get the same-ish result with an adjustable mid‐link gas chamber.
You have probably figured it out by now, but one other thing to check, are the screws on the gas port on your BCG torques to spec and properly staked? I've seen those screws not properly staked and back out enough to start losing gas pressure before it sends the bolt backward.
Beautiful build, glad to hear you got it figured out !
Where did you get your muzzle compensator ?
I need one of those real bad.
The parts list is in the article
Boing constant too high. Reduce boing constant to increase plink ratio. :-)
Ahh, you speak Grunt....
I’m here for the crayons
Jester , don’t forget the Elmer’s glue to wash them down.
Negative ghost rider, a teaspoon of CLP a day keeps Docs silver BulletDrop away.
Jester , never underestimate good PMCS.
Sometimes going with all of these “upgrades” actually downgrades your rifle.
Until you see this thing run. As stated, this build combination is uncommon, and most manufacturers avoid it because it sits on the fringe of what consumers are willing to understand and work with, but man-o-man is it a smooth shooter! (see pinned comment or video description)
Many upgrades are like that. If the bear is tearing through the front door, I would reach for the old SP-1 that I knew was going to work every time, over the goofey-gun full of holes, and temperamental parts. Guns like that are really cool toys, but they are never going to be a practical tool. It all depends on what you want.
Well, at least you got a dust-cover delete upper. I know a guy that built a skeletonized with the dust cover still there. Really have to question that logic.
I was thinking the same thing. I had issues more with upgraded parts than standard milspec stuff on my build. I do love peoples builds like this one that just go all out for the fun of it! for most of us though, a plain-jane AR will be more gun than we have skills to handle them! Speaking of upgrading, I've also found that some expensive parts for pistols can have terrible side effects and fitment issues. Gives me quite the respect for real, skilled gunsmiths! Anyone can throw together parts, but it's the minor tuning and stoning required that most of us are unaware of or unskilled at performing!
Two things I can think of, 1: the buffer spring is too strong, 2: enlarge the diameter of the the gas port on the barrel and gas block so more gas can vent to the BCG.
That's what I was thinking as well. I'm leaning more towards too small of a gas port or gas block. Despite the adjustable block it will be limited if the gas port on the barrel is too small.
gas port should be fine as is. As its purpose is to unlock the bolt, more or less. Given that he mentions that the bolt pushes back a little, it should be unlocking just fine. I agree on the spring being a possible problem, however i also suspect the munition not being heavy enough. if everything is "as light as possible" he might need to use ammo with more pressure and weight to get it to cycle properly. that and make sure everything is lubed properly as well.
Yep, only thing he can do
Have u tried putting the buffer detent? What if the spring is catching. Or change your barrel gas system to shorter since it's too tight.
3:21 in and here is my question to you...
You said you have a carbine buffer system but are running a rifle length gas tube, tells me that the buffer spring is way too stiff to cycle on it's own. Give that a try. Haven't looked in the other comments to see if it has been said, that is just my two cents...
And where is your buffer keeper?
A rifle buffer syste and a carbine buffer system have the same base resistance and same stroke length. If anything his buffer spring was possibly designed for a AR pistol back before they had pig tails and shorter barrels. As he said in the pinned comment it was the buffer spring, and possibly the gas port. But it's unlikely the gas port is the issue. With a short dwell and the lightweight everything moving, its possible the bolt was beginning to move before operating pressure was reached, causing gasses to escape and causing short stroking. It also looks like there's a lot of carbon on and around that gas block, could be a gas leak. Many people don't install the buffer detent for ease of field stripping, or they simply don't desire to have one. It's not your rifle.
Beat me to it. Had the same problem with a buddy's mid length tube and a pistol buffer. Dropped my cap'd buffer in, and it ran like a thoroughbred.
with the coin shortage we can no longer give our two cents worth.
YOU WERE RIGHT
Well good thing you fixed it, but if it ever fails again, you could always just use that brake on the front as a bayonet.
Not sure if you fixed this problem but I had the same problem with an 18" rifle length build with adjustable gas block. Switched my carbine buffer and extension for a Vltor A5 and played with different buffers and now runs great.
That's one way. Seevideo description for what we did.
Your tube isn't screwed in far enough. the detent should be in the middle of the split. That will give the spring more tension. What was the fix?
See video description, or the article: www.ballisticmag.com/impossible-ar-build-myths/
This is literally a video about the most over engineered AR ever. Heavier BCG or lighter spring. Follow the path of resistance...
😂
You need a lighter buffer spring. It's the primary force that determines the speed the bolt carrier travels at. Bolt weight would be second to that and so on. Friction should be rather small in comparison if everything is sized right and no parts are in the wrong area.
out of curiosity do they make some tool that allows you to measure the pressure at the gas tube? im thinking some kind of system simmilar to a cars compression tester
if so maybe hooking one to the rifle and seeing what pressures your getting might let you get more insight to whats going on
is the gas block properly aligned with the port in the barrel? How well does the air flow when you close the breach and blow on the muzzle?
Drill the barrel gas port. Worked for my 20'' 350 legend build.
Yes, I believe he should do this. It would be quite the light show
@Buttbanging Trannyliberal Just used a 5/64 drill bit. should put you around .078 to .081
Are you 100% sure that the gas port lines up with the gas block?
Cheap way to tell is to use a piece of wire or toothpick that's sanded down to barely fit in the hole for the gas port. Put it in & trim flush with the top of the barrel. Cut a shear line part of the way through. Install the gas block & when you turn the barrel upside down, the wire/toothpick should freely move back & forth. Use a cleaning rod to snap it in half & make sure you recover both halves.
If it does, and you still have this problem, you need to drill the hole bigger.
If it doesn't, then the gas block isn't lined up. Loosen the block & wiggle it upside down, untill it drops. Then re-tighten the block. Make sure it still moves freely before using the cleaning rod to remove it.
Yep, adjustable block doesn't do shit without a wide open gas port. A normal gas port is not large enough.
Gas block indexing and brand name gas blocks can save going to extremes.
Testing bcg for leaks, and a dozen other possibilities should be done before jacking with drilling a gas port. Simply because it takes longer to polish the bore afterward than to check parts and indexing.
Doubly, since DIY tubers can’t afford the drill bit to properly do a gas port. Because it does take a very expensive and hard to find bit.
I had the same issue with my Triarc 13.9” barrel. I couldn’t cycle any .223. 5.56 I could but not .223.
The gas port size was .065. It was too small to cycle and so I end up using Sprinco yellow spring (20% weaker) and it will cycle anything now. Give your buffer spring a try.
yif you want to use 223 ammo you need a 223 gas block or tube.
Master80059 the gas block has nothing to do with it. Your port size is what matter
@@miguelrojas5792 Absolutely, agree 100%. The gas port should be around .075 (I said AROUND)
I hope this has been fixed by now but As many people said you need a lighter buffer spring and those 2 rounds that cycled will turn into 30 per mag. Seems like your reciever both upper and lower may also bbn have VERY tight tolerance. Or like you said the risk of your preferred gas system. Sometimes the perfect builds we want just don't work exactly how we want but I'd try the spring first.
See video description
I was issued a beater M16A1 in 1978 Not fancy at all but it worked. Now I have a beater RRA A2 bone stock and totally reliable. What good is pretty? What's it's function?
Try a Sprinco Yellow Reduced power spring. Also where is your buffer retainer and spring (that could be the problem)? You can also take off the gas block and see how large the gas port is in the barrel, you might need to make it just a little bit larger.
You dont need the buffer detent. Doest have anything to do with funtion.
Without a video of the action, my first thought is the 'stiffness' of the slide action. It 'sounds' awfully tight. Is it tight enough that the drag results in a timing problem (as you noted). Also, you stated it was a carbine buffer/spring combination. That may be too stiff as well, and the cumulative result of drag and stiff spring slows the bolt down enough that the gas bleeds off before full cycling. I would film that in slo-mo before I touched any hard modifications.
Loosen up your upper to lower fit. If it's too tight it might bind the bolt carrier, especially with the cuts in the recievers, the cuts can take away stiffness.
Really hard to diagnose over the internet. But I agree about the spring. Also I'd like to know what the fired cases look like. Might be a chamber issue or might not be.
I had the same problem . First look at the mag release . If it's not tighten properly it will fail to feed. . also make sure the gas block holes are perfectly aligned . Pull out the screws then look through the hole ,then you can line it up using a small punch
I was hoping you’d say spend and absurd amount of money to make sure every bit of dust and grit gets in the important stuff
Typically F1 builds don’t have issues running because although they have big holes in the upper which allows dirt in, the holes also make it easy for dirt to get out.
When I first saw that upper, I was thinking, "You just spent probably over 3,000 for something so unreliable because of them holes on the upper receiver." My one $300 AR probably outshoots this pos.
@@stephensniff lol if that were true wouldn’t high speed sf guys want skeletonized stuff? Yeah it saves weight but to keep a gun running smoothly you want to keep as much grit out as possible. That’s why ar-15s have a dust cover in the first place. Not to mention getting any gear you have caught in all those holes could be a huge problem
@m seriously man i hate gun video window shoppers that have to validate there 300 gun they save up for. "See you jam just as much as me." 🤣
try a swapping the lower and upper with a gun you know that runs see which one fails then go from there
yep that's the way to 1/2 the possible ..
Yep, too many unknowns! Start with working parts then swap in your questionable parts one at a time to check which ones work and which ones don't.
How would that change the under gas issue...?
I suspect you are right about the port size. Put the original spring back in and throw a can in it. And don't ever worry about 18" barrel with rifle length gas system. I have a 16"barrel with a rifle gas system. Don't tell me I'm mistaken because I'm not. It worked just fine with a non adjustable block but the point is to suppress it and turn the gas down and not get so much gas in your face.
@Josh Weaver the spring doesn't go into the receiver while the BCG is in place. When in battery, it's still keeping the buffer and spring in the buffer tube and out of the receiver.
If you don't know how guns even work, you shouldn't try to diagnose their problems.
Where’s the detent to retain the buffer and buffer spring? Even though you fixed it I would be interested to know if that may have been part of the issue
I know this will sound screwy but what if you put a heavy buffer in and a flat spring. The problem may not be the amount of pressure but the duration of pressure as you alluded to. A heavier buffer once it gets moving will continue to move back even after the pressures are gone. I actually think a full auto bolt would fix the problem but if you want to keep the cool looking one try h2 or h3 buffer.
Take two coils off the spring. If it improves, take off two more then add weight to the buffer to smooth out the recoil.
With the short barrel ( and therefore gas tube ) there will be a relatively narrow range of loads with which it will
cycle.
I was thinking the exact same thing! Custom guns require custom modification! If the gas system is dead nuts only thing a guy can try is a complete new bcg or a new adjustable gas block or start cutting the spring
Your buffer spring is too stiff. I had the same issue.
Did you check to make sure there are no leaks in the gas system? It sounds precisely like that was causing it. Like a defective gas block or tube.
I had some trouble cycling some subsonic rounds, changed out the barrel and brought a low profile gas block further back, everything cycled like a dream. Food for thought
I'd drop that upper on a mil-spec lower and vise versa. Try to narrow down the possibilities
Try a flat wire buffer spring. $20 option that may allow it to fully cycle. And where is your buffer detent? Your buffer tube isn't screwed in far enough. It should stop the detent from coming out
You dont need the buffer detent. Doest have anything to do with funtion.
@@twistinprops604 Not capturing the buffer allows excess force on the rear of the bolt. Could be enough to cause a short stroke. But I'm just an old soldier , not an expert like you.
@@gerryetheridge7480 plenty of 2 and 3 gun shooters running guns without buffer detents and springs.
idk if you have fixed the problem yet but on think i would check is the charging handle. Ive had my M16 get jammed when the charging handle warped and was causing things to short stroke. No idea how it happened but it did. if you have a Milspeck AR you could just rotate the parts and see what causes the problem
See video description
That AR looks absolutely ridiculous.
Why do you say that
@@oasisgaming4246 skeleton cut parts are ridiculous, screams "I play too much modern warfare".
@@Succulent_Lmaos It's kinda nifty, I love a standard looking AR but a cool build like this is pretty neat given you're willing to drop the money to set it all up.
@willie N or is it the guys who act like their operators who are the gamers. I've been to two wars and three different training schools as a civilian I know what rifle I'd use if I had to. To assume this is my only firearm is absurd.
haters going to hate cool AR
I’m not a professional by any means but have built close to a 50 custom AR’s.
Rifle length gas tube rifle length buffer tube an spring.
I ran into a very similar problem in the past . The rifle length buffer spring is a lot softer spring than the carbine spring also the rifle length buffer tube is longer it should an will also be a soft shooter. Or change your barrel to a carbine length barrel probably going to be a lot harder to adjust it way down the handguard but could be a fix for you .
But I’m not a professional i just have a lot of time invested in AR’s builds good luck I hope you get it running looks like a sweet AR
Jeff R. Did you get your guidance? Builder here...
I’m sure you’ve tried different springs.so have you set head space with a guage?
Are you using a rifle length buffer vs the carbine one you need? I know they come in 10 inch and 12 inch right?
That is a bummer
No it’s not. It’s an abomination.
I agree with most of the comments. I've built several PSA 18" rifle length uppers & ran into the same problem. My solution was drilling the gas port a couple of thousands over and using the adjustable gas block to regulate the gas.
I have a similar issue except I put the lightest spring you can get in and the ar was basically a single shot still. I put on my friend lower and it ran flawlessly. It mag dumped 3 mags in s row without an issue. I also changed the bcg and gas block. I called the manufacturer and they had no suggestions I hadn't tried. Do you guys have any other suggestions for that?
Had this issue before, turned out to be the flare on the gas tube. Tolerance stacking sometimes means the tube doesn't have a good seat in the key.
Yeah I just read the pinned comment, the mass of the bolt carrier and buffer are important to compress the heavy weight spring. If you lighten those you need a lighter spring. Is might sound counter intuitive but it has to do with inertia. More mass moving backwards creates more force. Bad ass build though! Glad you got it fixed!
Check out the results! czcams.com/video/tjFRl6sO_GY/video.html
I'm new to AR's and M&P's but, this is the first thing that crossed my mind. Especially, after he noted that he went with the lightest weight buffer and considering he noted it cycled a little stiff and experienced short strokes. Glad you figured it out. Nice build!
When I went to light weapons school the instructor said a buffer spring needs to do two things:
Strip a round off the magazine.
Completely lock the bolt.
A well tuned Stoner design will have a nice neat 12 inch pile of ejected brass at your 1 or 2 or 3
1 o clock brass ejection would be over gassed as hell wouldn't it?
@@noluckpureskill9985 yep
How tight is your receiver lug adjustment screw? I am thinking the bcg is going in receiver extension at an angle.
Is the bcg cam dragging on the upper?
Also, check the gas rings/gas expansion chamber on the bolt. How easily does it glide within the carrier?.
Unlikely but, maybe that upper is letting the gas pressure drop too fast.
Get a sprinco spring, or a flat wire spring.
Great concepts. Fortunately the solution was pretty simple. See video description for the solution, footage of the gun running, and the article in Ballistic about this rifle and experience.
The buffer ads some resistance but if you are short stroking on full gas I would look at a different buffer spring.
What is your buffer spring weight?
Sounds like your gas port is undersized.
Looks like you have room to adjust if it does get overgasssed
I dunno, milling holes all the way through your upper is pretty dumb to begin with.
Haha sand dust and dirt go brrrrrrrr in your moving parts
I don't get the novelty of it either. You would think people would have gotten over that idea after the sho-sho magazines back in WW1, but nope, we need to relearn the lesson. Too much light weight extreme in this build. He has removed all the moving mass he can, and the result is no function. Not the first one to do it, and not the last. The AR design needs that mass to operate properly, and reliably.
See the article, I think it'll be eye opening
@@GBGuns Very nice looking rifle. sure a long way form that used first gen SP-1 that caught my eye when I was 18.
Idk if this is a thing but first thing that crossed my mind is the lightweight carrier and buffer I don't feel there's enough "momentum" due to the lightweightness.
Have you tried a different upper? Same bolt same spring and buffer just different upper with proper gas length for a it’s barrel length. I’m sure that is the problem mid length would probably been ordeal. Hope you find the solution cause that’s a nice build for it not to be running smoothly
i noticed two things one is the buffer, when you took the gun apart the buffer was up against the trigger, therecshould be a detent that the buffer sits behind, the other thing i noticed the piece behind the fi imprint is in backwards,
doesn't need that pin. a lot of us remove it. it's just so when you open it up it holds the buffer tube in place.
Thousands of comments and you are the only one that knew that
@@blue03r6 Why remove it? Is there a benefit to the pin not being there?
No benefit for most users as take down becomes a little more involved (tiny amount). For me and this build it was so I could have easy access to the adjustable buffer. In this receiver the pin is threaded on with a tiny (and frail) Allen key. I didn't want to need that tool and have to use a tool just to get to my buffer.
@@AdversaryOne it's a military designed weapon. It's designed to be used by ...no offence to our military men and women ..by idiots lol. It's to make the gun easier to field strip. If you forget it's not there the spring and buffer can fly out when you open the upper from the lower. When the gun is assembled the buffer rests against the bolt carrier not the pin.
youre also missing the pin that keeps the buffer where it should be.
thats what i was thinking, thinking maybe the buffer is keeping constant tension on the bolt carrier and the bolt isnt blowing back far enough for the round to be cycled.
Yes
Get rid of that extention piece have the buffer sit in the tube and maybe a lighter spring becausr the gas tube is 3.5 miles long.
Do the barrel and the receiver both have feed ramps, I know that can cause cycling issues or maybe that's just failed to feed or fail to go into battery
Did you ever get it to cycle properly? I would first look at the gas block alignment ,fitment or gas block itself?
Yes. See video description or pinned comment
Cut about an inch off of the spring coils. And keep cutting or find a softer spring.
Might have to do that on a build myself. I have plenty of spare springs.
@@travisholland1021 springs are cheap start cutting.
You want dirt and sand to clog up your AR action? Easy: just cut a lot of holes in the upper receiver...
I agree. This build was a 'fail' when he chose that ridiculous 'cut out' upper receiver........
I don't think that this is one of those "Zombie Apocalypse" type builds. I suppose this was more of an art project that will sling bullets down a range for fun. I can only imagine the amount of oil/carbon this thing will slog all over the place during an extended session though. lol
I agree, and could looks more ridicule if they put the dust cover
@@_felx1100 Because it's his money (and property) and he can do whatever he wants with it.
I have nearly all Skeletonized uppers and lowers, no dust covers, ever. most are all slick sides. Hell, you can fire these pretty much covered n mud. And very easy to clean. heck I would even have to say these uppers and lowers that have the loads of "holes" perform better over all. Much of the standard gas debris has the chance to get to atmosphere and does not get trapped in the gun, or down the upper or into the buffer. The few ARs that I have that are MilSpec uppers. I have to clean the buffer tube out just as often as the rest of the gun. With my Skeletonized uppers and even in the lowers that I have Skeletonized. I am seeing much mush less "Blow Back" crap. Which really is the main "dirt" problems you find with any malfunction. I guess its a different story if you are in the military, crawling in mud, dirt and sand, every day and firing a few hundred rounds out of that dirty gun. But I would suspect it would be an issue of premature wear then malfunction.
Any how, the spring would be the first item to easily change out, but I do suspect that there is an inclusion in the gas port of the barrel or gas tube restricting gas flow. But thats not so bad if its just a spring change. if you start to get stronger recoils and buffer smack, the thing interrupting the gas flow, just might had been blown out. change the spring back. lol.
I have two of the f1 Uppers, love them. I would like to get the Upper and Lower set. but little more then I like to spend. I am a machinist by education and Sales Engineer by trade. So I do have a few mills and lathes to make my tooling modifications. I do a good deal of lightening on my own equipment.
So, for Cutting holes in ARs I say great idea.... My three gun AR, full 16" barrel, and Full Auto BCG (I used the auto version for the greater mass in the BCG, I feel it helps speed, cycle and on target) but other wise everything has been lightened up. Just a few Oz over 6lbs. Compare that with a 9 or 10lbs. If I were in compositions against you, all day. Im gonna put money on me. lol, I have never been in combat, but I think i would still take my gun over a milspec AR any day. that 3 or 4 lbs really adds up at the end of the day. And me, I dont really care how big you are (im 6'1" 240lbs, so not a little guy). keeping my 6lbs gun on target for extended time. thats the way to go....
Lighter Buffer spring next like others have said, cause it's fairly inexpensive. I see there's no buffer retention where the buffer tube mates to the lower, is there a specific reason for that?
Honestly, these videos of ‘mistakes’ are very useful! I don’t know much about much but I appreciate the knowledge!!
My reaction to seeing the muzzle break - 'What is this, I don't even, who am I supposed to give money so that I can have one too?'
“Fix bayonets!!” Was the first thing that came to my mind😂
It's pointy!
Check out Doublestar AR15 Caymen Flash Hider
It is very pointy and bada$$
DS Arms and yes it is made of aluminum
Thanks @kotaboy32 Tactical. It had been so long since I bought it I couldn't remember. Check out the second video to see how this thing runs.
Shoot me a text
@твоя мама It is fixed. See the video description. Changing the gas system was not needed.
First you don’t have a buffer retainer, and you have the wrong buffer and bolt carrier and no real need for the adjustable gas block unless you plan to use a suppressor. Try a carbine buffer and a regular bolt carrier because I don’t believe your short stroking I believe the carrier is moving way to fast to pick up the next round.
Incorrect. See video description
I would make sure the barrel has the correct dia gas port hole under the gas block. Had a undersized hole on an ar build I was helping with and had the same issue.
Were is your buffer tube/lower receiver detent, Noticed it was missing. Might allow your buffer tube spring to create resistance on your bolt. The buffer tube spring and cap should be retained in buffer tube when you pop the upper off.
I’m relatively new to customizing AR platform rifles but I what came into my mind was the buffer spring. I’m glad you got it figured out.
The fact that coated the upper & lower may have something to do with the fitment of the pins between the upper and lower- you have added material
Too late to the party but this reminds me of issues with ultralight bolts where the action cycles so fast that there is no time for the magazine spring to reliably push another cartridge and that heavy spring won't help.
It was a problem with ENYO ars, I believe.
What gr bullet are you using, The barrel port can be to far away and like everyone else said the spring could be to stiff.
I had the same problem when I bought my stag Arms 3tm but it ended up being the gas key on top of the bolt carrier
I think it looked and sounded extremely dry as well as the spring.
That was my initial thought as well. Dry! And that recoil spring is way too strong for the lightweight bolt carrier and buffer.
There was a cut in the video. Is the Buffer retainer actually IN. or does the buffer actually press against the back of the bolt when in battery?
edit: yeah @ 7:00 theres supposed to be a pin in the lower receiver in front of the buffer tube!
Not required. See the article
try cutting a loop at a time off the spring. lightening up that spring tension may help out. ?
Yeah I can agree that spring is way to heavy, did you hear the thud when you dropped it on the table? Do you think you went a little to light weight on your components? You still need the right amount of mass to compress that spring. Also having a light weight buffer could also be a factor.