Top 5 Coins to Avoid
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- čas přidán 10. 07. 2024
- Welcome back to another episode of Campbell's Coins. In this episode I go over the top 5 coins you should avoid buying. Some of my opinions on this topic may ruffle some feathers. Agree with me or disagree with me, leave a comment below saying what you agree or disagree with me on. I hope this video helps you avoid making mistakes when stacking silver and collecting coins.
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I love this video. Some other coins to avoid: Coloured bullion coins, Privy mark coins, Coins with Disney characters, Star War characters, silver rounds like Silver Shield, Zombucks, Pirate Series, Elemetal series. They look beautiful but there is not a lot of demand for these.
I would stick to semi-numismatic coins like the Chinese Panda, Australian Kookabura, Koala, Lunar Series etc.
Thank you! Those are some good examples! Appreciate the input and for you watching! :)
You’re right.
Why not Silver Shields with the Mini mintages?
I won't touch Pandas, even on the secondary market. They have communist taint on them. As far as I'm concerned, those who buy them support communism. Eat those freaking things.
Good advice - one caveat - collector coins which are made of precious metal should have the note added that they can be stacked and kept for their weight value since and ounce of silver is still an ounce of silver.
Very true but the premium one pays on that one ounce of silver, for the collector coins, is often quite high.
It always makes me cringe when I see someone pay 35-40$ with shipping both way to have a 18-20$ silver eagle graded and slabbed.
I've purchased 1000 mint sets a year for the last 7 years i love my collection and have done well on them, getting harder to find unopened boxes of 5 mint sets on the market, getting harder to find nice clad coin period, remember clad did not come nice from the mints! So that being the case then in the future MS 65 MS 66 clad will have some worth, and if the US mint does away with copper nickel coinage, then I might have something? like the new constitutional silver but copper nickel.
This has been extremely helpful and I will definitely be watching all of your videos. Thank you so much
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching and the kind words!
Thank you for your explanation specially on the modern slab coin. I have 5 of those (didn't paid more for it) but the person that owned before was so proud of it. Now I understand why some people break out of the slab. There's really nothing special about it.
Agree proof and mint set bad buy.
Thank you for posting this. I’m still pretty new and wouldn’t have known about the proof sets being basically worthless.
Thank you for watching! Yes the clad proof sets are worthless, the silver and gold are worth at least melt value
Check out some of my other vids if you have a chance, I have some other educational ones for beginners. :)
There is a lot to agree with in this video...when you got to the subject of American Silver Eagle bullion coins I was really in agreement, but was hoping you would touch on the subject of the limited mintage proof versions. I know the premiums put them out of the stacker/bullion discussion but it looks like the US Mint is moving toward a defined mint limit on these going forward which to me makes them worth looking at.
Commoratives are an excellent buy. The dealers don't like them and sell them under the cost of junk silver. It varies from coin shop to coin shop. Silver is silver. Those 80's proof sets are a good by if you get them cheap enough. Break them up and sell them a piece at a time. Always can get 4 bucks for the proof pennies. Good video none the less.
How can you tell if a modern coin proof set is just clad or all silver?
Avoid ballcap on backwards.
Very helpful video thank you for sharing
I'm glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Great video. You are a true professional. Look in order to help people sometimes you have to tell them what they don't want to hear. That is just reality.
Appreciate the kind words and for you stopping by!
I definitely learn my lesson on buying modern slab coins. I'm a new stacker been doing for less than a year now. But I first fell for the graded and slab stuff a few months ago. I bought a first day issues 1 Nevada goldback. Graded 70. I payed $50 for a gold back that cost less than $4 and the time. With a spot price of less than $2 😆😆😆😆. Later seen a video on the truth about first day issues morden coin and learn I made a mistake buying it. Thank you for educating people on this stuff. Also I don't get the proof sets. Those things are ugly and I don't see why people will buy those things. I agree on everything you said in this video thank you.
Is there a trusted source with all of the modern rare coins such as the 2004 kookaburra?
I buy modern commemorative coins. But, only if I can get them close to their bullion value.
This is an excellent video which every "newbie" should watch to avoid being scammed. I think some of the worst ones which should be avoided are those TV "anniversary coin" sales......anniversary of WW1, WW2, Dunkirk, D-Day, Armistice day, etc, etc, (they're trying to push the "patriotism button".....i.e. if you don't buy this you're not patriotic). I'm in the UK and we often get these....I recently saw a British sovereign advertised on TV at close to spot price as a "special introductory offer" but the next one in the series (assuming you were stupid / inexperienced enough to sign-up for the series) would cost almost four times the spot price !!
The same thing happens on Ebay.....common silver coins which should cost a little more than spot are being sold for anywhere up to ten times their real value (obviously aimed at new collectors / stackers) so my advice to anyone just getting into stacking is *don't buy anything from anywhere until you've done the research and know approximately how much you should be paying.*
Congrats for a great video....you just earned another "sub" :-)
Agree on all 5 points. I have a bunch of Mint Sets, Proof's and Uncirc's. I have some sitting on my desk now. They've been there for weeks. I'm gonna break them out and try to sell off individual coins. After I check them for any possible errors.
Appreciate it! Yeah, sets look nice and are only good for errors. Thanks for watching!
Bullion coins do not have a true numismatic purpose, their purpose is to make available digestible amounts of metal value to individuals for wealth sheltering separate from the fiat currency and provide security in its stated content. Most of us are not in a position to acquire one kilo bars in a single purchase, but bought incrementally, an ounce at a time, can yield substantial results over time. Also if one was forced to barter their bullion for a particular need it would be handy to have smaller increments than one kilo bars. Government minted bullion can give confidence to the potential buyer, initial or subsequent, that the object in question is as it is represented, so all the minting marks and technology used serves that end. Collecting bullion as a numismatic exercise seems wishful at best given the mass production and the special handling (you don't see too many American Silver Eagles in your change, they do have a face value and are capable to circulate, but no one is going to do that).
I agree with you 100%
Good point about the government bullion coins graded. The ASE coins do have collectible issues but even then, the demand and premium you receive varies greatly. Some coin dealers will pay only a little above bullion value and it depends on the year.
Want to add one thing about proof clad sets. I think people degrade them too much. One of the reasons proof sets before the mid 1960s also get a good premium (aside from silver and the mintages for some years were equal to that of 2010 - 2018) is the US Mint had NOT perfected the process of producing cameo and ultra cameo proof coins. By about the mid 1980's it was common to see cameo proof coins in a set ( compare a 1985 or 86 with even a 71 or 73). So, the population of cameo and deep cameo proof coins falls precipitously found in sets from the period 1985 to 1968.
What I think are good investments are the clad proof sets from 71 through early 2000's IF you buy them cheap from a coin dealer eager to unload them due to excess inventory. For example, I found a wonderful 2004 clad proof set for $6. Pluses of these sets are: they look different from the ones 2012 onward as the technology was not using lasers for the sculpting of the coins in 2004; deep cameo becomes completely the norm for sets 2012 onward - although it was as I wrote more common from the mid 1980's onward, you can get them for only a few dollars above or at face value, but most important you might find an error.
The only exception to NOT getting clad proof sets would then be: a) you pay only a little above face value and the coins look excellent (so be cautious when buying online); b) getting one at f.v or a little above from the 1970's has one bonus - it is hard to find coins that are deep cameo and the Eisenhower dollars, due to their short run and popularity, may offer a modest premium; c) there are likely to be more errors - especially before 1995 when the mint's die and stamping process changed which greatly reduced the chance of double dies. And a final exception, you get a free coin that has its mintage tied solely to sales of the set. You would be surprised to see which of the 2019-W Lincoln cents has the lowest mintage to do.
Hopefully people reading this do not go out and think it wise to buy 2 dozen clad proof sets bargaining at numerous local coin shops. Unless, as the video states, you have the time to cherrypick which would entail buying MUCH more proof sets. If so you may as well start selling coins to offset the cost of time and effort doing this. But then how do you sell a proof set you paid a few dollars above face value at a higher price when this is usually the going rate?
What I do is I buy from the US Mint ONE current Uncirculated set and ONE current Silver proof set, maybe I will buy a clad proof set if the bonus they offer seems desirable to me and it would be cheaper to buy it with the coin rather than the coin alone on the secondary market.
Finally one other exception but regarding commemoratives - I like getting the coin and currency sets which offer commemorative coins along with uncirculated paper currency and usually a special strike of a circulating coin. Those products I find offer a good hedge against the fall in premium of the commemorative coin. However, it also is a way to collect SOME commemorative coins that you like and possibly see an increase in value if commemorative coins see a resurgence in popularity (it would help immensely if world mints would sharply reduce production of this type of coin --- I mean at this point I could sell a coin commemorating the healing of my big toe, wrap it up in fancy packaging, say it is produced by "Island of Timtabuloo Mint" and provide a tantalizing sales pitch and voila - a potential scam! I just got to be sure I produce it in gold plated rhodium-zing-maganese alloy with a bimetallic ring of silicone-steel.
Pardon the length of my response.
You are right on! enjoyed this video.
Much appreciated dude! Thanks for watching!
is there a book i could read if i wanted more info about this topic?
Excellent information !! 👍
Thanks!! I hope it helps
I would add fractional silver rounds to this list. They may not be scams like your list, but they're certainly a terrible ripoff.
DUDE! Yes, 100% I'm so passionate with my hatred on fractional rounds I'm doing a solo video on them and what a rip off they are. I love hearing people spread the lie, "it costs more to make these over 1oz rounds..." Does the cost of making a penny exceed that of a quarter? Nope, cost is the same. It's the metal content that makes one more expensive over another.
Thats what constitutional silver is for baby
When you say not to slab bullion coins I assume you are not including the proof or burnished silver eagles correct? You are just referring to the bullion versions? Thanks
I would disagree about the Gov bullion coins IF you can get them at a very low premium or just above spot price. I'm looking at stacking and am not really worried about collectability or demand. I'm looking at future value per oz, For me I love the Current year BU Canadian Maples for Gold AND silver as they demand less of a premium, I'm looking at Stacking and holding these for a VERY long time and it's a great hedge against inflation. It really boils down to two kinds of people, The first is collectors and yes all of these are good to avoid and the second is long term stackers/hedgers and that's where I disagree on Gov bullion coins.
DeLo Enterprises appreciate your input and thoughts 👊
I think you missed the part where he mention slabbed coins, not raw ones. He never said raw government bullions coins were ones to avoid. He said graded ones were. Maple Leafs are good for stacking because they have a low premium from what I've seen but he's saying to avoid buying the graded ones. I'd agree with him.
of course you wouldn't avoid anything at face or spot (dah) as long as you can verify it - i run an add on CL offering $1 over spot on any verified coin/round ...reason... because it's still cheaper than buying it anywhere else these days - i mean really, think of the cheapest round you can find on any given dealer site these days (probably about $5 over) - the best deals 'online' i'm finding right not are probably Monuments Germania Mint 500 and 1000 Gram Bars (and keep them in their boxes), especially in the hard dips
@@Ffollies oh that makes sense i missed that too.
Good informative discussion on an interesting and mostly ignored topic.
Gary Ellliott thank you for stopping by! Appreciate the kind words.
Campbell, I'm a little late watching this video. I agree with 99%, but the Austrian Philiharmonics are generally only about 50 Cents different/highter than the rounds and when they go on sale can be the same price as the bullion rounds. Plus, because they are such a beautiful design, it can help when resold.
Besides premiums and whatnot, is there any disadvantage to buying generic brand silver? Will pawn shops (for example) only accept JM, Asahi, etc? Or do they buy whatever brand, like Silver Towne and others?
Excellent question. There is a disadvantage and it's a big one. During a low demand period (we currently aren't in one) some places just won't buy the generic silver because they have so much. If you sell, it might sell for well under spot. During a high demand period, like one we are entering, they will be begging you to sell silver and will offer above spot. As for brands I can't speak to which is best because it all depends on the shop but typically the more popular the brand, the more likely you will be able to sell it. JM is good brand and desired by many. I hope this helps! 🙏
@@CampbellsCoins Thank you! Very helpful answer! I am a beginner stacker, so I will keep all this in mind. 😁
My Grandpa left 8000 oz. Of franklin mint silver medallions in real fancy cabinets. Should I melt it all down ? They have some epic art on them but I get your point.
I just found your channel. I liked and subscribed.
I collect Kennedy half dollars, so I have a few 64 proofs, that's just because I like them.
I have an Unslabbed 2019 S ERP ASE w/COA. They selling on Ebay for like 1400 but mine aint for sale!
Very helpful video
Thanks for watching!
Coins to Avoid: Anything from the US Mint
I agree, found out too late all the proof sets I own are worth less
Some of those silver commemoratives make great rings, and I love scooping them up cheap
Yes!!!! They would make excellent rings! I want to see some of these rings on your IG page! Thanks for watching Ben.
@@CampbellsCoins I don't have any on hand right now. Is there one in particular? That's usually a custom order thing for me.
@@benranfeld7871 No I just meant in general so I can show it off to folks to promote your work.
You mean double sided coin rings, right? I make them too.👍Just finished one yesterday, out of a British silver half crown coin from 1933.😁
Sounds like good advise to me.
Good video agree 100% with ur list
Thank you! I'm glad we see eye to eye. Appreciate you watching Larry!
I disagree with modern proof sets as the collection should be too just keep to hand down to your heir as a way to get them into the numismatics
Could one get another into numismatics with an item of actual value? I would argue, the item of value would have a greater impact towards newbies, because they could see it's value grow. Versus modern proof sets, which don't grow in value, then that individual just views the hobby with a negative connotation.
@CampbellsCoins for example I owe a 1987 S Mint silver eagles in ms69 set these are modern proof coins with silver content type 1 silver eagles
Uncirculated 1978 gold 1 oz. How much is that
Depends on what it is. Your local coin shop can give you a better idea of price.
I'm surprised you included the commemorative proofs in your list and am not sure I agree on that one. Just one example: a few years ago I bought the 1987 Constitution gold and silver set at a local coin shop for about $200. Now I can't find that same set anywhere online for much less than $500. Some sellers are wanting even more and I just hope no newbie collector buy from these crooks.
I included them because for the most part, commemoratives don't fall into this "bonanza" category. Every once in awhile some do but most do not. There are always exceptions to the rule.
you speak to the wing tips of the bell, or as some would state a 'high kurtosis' - not being the norm - and... that's why he covered it
Great video
Eagles, Maples and Krugerrands Gold and Silver!
Commemoratives are typically sentimental. A NASA engineer might like to have the Apollo 50th coins or someone like me who is a space geek that likes the interesting curved shape of coin. They are not much for investing. More of conversation pieces.
Very true sir. Appreciate the feedback.
What about Pandas and Libertads. They seem to go up in value once graded especially MS70?
You're right. I specifically talk about low mintage coins being the exception at 9:20
So Im not making a mistake really then. So far only have 2 graded Pandas. Got both for under $50. Been watching for a decent Libertad to snatch up.
@@hillbillystacker6936 I can't answer for you but for me, I only get graded bullion if it's low mintage and MS70. I buy ungraded bullion from a reputable source. MS70 will always carry a higher premium over any other grade or an ungraded coin. I would never buy a MS70 ASE, Maple Leaf or Kangaroo. These may have a slight premium over lower grades or an ungraded version but it's just not worth it unless they are low mintage. Low mintage to me is any govt bullion under 30,000
Makes a lot of sense
You forgot those coin sets featuring culls like the remember pearl harbor coin sets or something like that. On the side i always freak out when i see how much people are paying for those morgan rolls
Yup! Those are good ones!
I should have spent some extra money and bought silver proofsets
Entertaining...
Very informative video, thanks. +1 Sub.
Thank you and thank you for watching. Subbing to your channel in a moment.
Agree completely with your 5 picks to avoid. I will go one step further, I don't recommend buying on eBay at all. Too much fraud there, not worth the risk!
100% avoiding Feebay is a great point!
Demand or popularity is important when investing in coins. Second, how many are available. Personal example: I own a uncirculated Boys Town $5 gold piece with a mintage less than 3,000. It is only worth melt value today. Yet, I understand, people are paying $1,000+ for one of the 2019 reverse proof silver eagles with a mintage of 30,000. ??? 😀??? Good Video!!
You're not wrong. Demand is an enormous factor. Appreciate it dude!
I have a proof set with 5 quarters, a half dollar, a dime, a penny, a nickle, and 6 dollar coins. The quarters, dime, and half dollar are made of 90% silver. That is about 1.3 Troy ounces
All points are really good did not disagree with any.
Appreciate you watching John. I'm glad we are on the same page :)
I’m watching u now taking notes
I have a stack of modern clad proof sets my Dad gave to me as a present over the years. LOL
Haha, well you have a lot of nice looking coins! Check them for errors! They might be worth something. Appreciate you watching!
Look for ultra (or deep) cameos, "full steps" nickels, high grade RED cents.
Its the thought that counts.
Looks like selling all of my proof sets in the late 80's was a good idea on my part.
If they didn't contain any errors, most definitely.
The only other exception to slabbed government under 100k could be if they are highly forged coins - thinking Pandas. That said another sucker can pay to get them slabbed - I'm not paying extra for it.
Gunnar Gundersen very true! Good points. 👊😎
I hate the penny rolls, its some 🐂💩. Dimes on the end 🐂💩 and when you look up mercury dimes on Ebay so many of them pop up it a pain in the 🐴. Very educational video.
Thanks much!
I buy the clad proof sets to fill my dansco albums
James B good idea! Pretty coins make the album look nicer. Do what makes you happy!
Do you think rare coins will retain their numismatic value during a period of extreme economic turmoil?
No. Especially in those scenarios silver is silver.
I stopped buying Eagles period.
100% accurate
Thank you and thanks for watching!
You are incorrect about Modern clad Proof sets regarding what you will receive. You will receive a very small premium above face --- and it depends on the set. The worst ones are the 1982 - 1998 sets as you receive very little in face value and the designs and denominations are static. Those, unless you hit a perfect Deep Cameo, may be bought for $1 above face and sometimes a dealer will refuse to buy it.
The situation changes for the better for Proof sets around 1999 onwards, with the period 2012 - 2018 featuring mintages matching those of the sets from the mid and late 1950's. Add in that in 2007 - 2016 you had the Presidential dollars which upped the face value substantially and had room for edge lettering errors, there are some years worth getting a proof set. Finally attractiveness of these years are the State and ATB Quarters and NIFC Kennedys and Sac/Native American dollars. The silver proof sets are a better deal (well except for 2020 and the 2021) and lower mintage BUT you aren't risking the loss you would with proof sets from the 1982 - 1998 period.
Now, the advantage of getting the cheap proof sets from 1982 - 1998 is to find errors and gems as you implied. The quality rose but collectors still will pay a premium (albeit modest) for a stellar proof. These sets are more valuable broken up than kept together. A better period though not as good as those from 1999 - 2016 but better than 1982 - 1998 are the ones from 1973 - 1978 for the Eisenhower dollars. Also the deep cameo common on ultra-modern proof sets was not common for sets from the 1970s --- the finish was far more brilliant and rather harsh. So a 1974 proof set with deep cameo on some or all coins actually fetches a decent premium. But as you said you have to go through many of them. Still as people rarely see Ike dollars, they make great gifts and getting one of these to have a nice Ike dollar is worth the investment and history.
Since 2017 proof clad set mintages have dropped to about levels not seen since 1955 - 1957 and the silver proofs about 1955. In the future these sets along with some from the 1999 - 2016 period will carry numismatic value but gradually over a long period. Below I provide some numbers of mintages for clad proof sets and one silver proof set.
Here is a comparison:
2004 1,798,488 compared to 1960 1,691,602.
2017 544, 759 (note the Silver proof was about 333,000) this comes closest to 1956 669,384
2018 Proof set mintages were the lowest since 1955 and since have rebounded but only modestly.
As for the ASEs, you are incorrect the lowest mintages are about 4 million. See the mintages for the ASE Uncirculated Burnished W dollars sold only through the Mint at a substantial premium. For quite a few years, the mintages are lower than the ASE Proof ones and sometimes approach those for a few special strikes. I also find that the quality of the coin is much higher than the bullion ones. But yes I would NOT buy the vast majority of ASE issues SLABBED, mintages with only few exceptions tend to run from the millions to tens of millions.
As for modern commemoratives, I think they are a good investment but only if a) you love the design and cause and b) any of them since 2000. The 1980's into much of 1990's ones are the poorest investments although there are some iconic designs that do get you interest (mainly the Ellis Island Statue of Liberty from 1986 and then some interesting ones like the Korean War Vets commemorative). There are only two commemoratives I would buy if I had the extra cash - 2000 Lief Ericson dollar and medal set and the 2019 Proof dollar VFW commemorative as the designs are wonderful and mintages excellent. If you go into commemoratives with eyes wide open then you can enjoy purchasing one for its history, cause, and aesthetic appeal rather than investment value. The mintages of ultra-moderns are great but their survival rate for many is very high, the population will only drop from poor handling/storage or melt.
Thanks for the video and hope you enjoy my response.
Also...I will not buy Panda's or South African (Krugerrand's). I feel it supports terrible Governments.
That's the reason I won't buy ASE. Terrible government.
@@outlaw6429 yep. I like constitutional silver. Not a big fan of modern bullion… though I will say I like the modern gold Buffalo. Only modern coin I buy. Still hate the government…. But I figure taking an ounce of gold out of circulation is the biggest FU I can offer them.
Never been a fan of proof sets. Ever. Can’t figure out why people buy them. But to each his own. The infomercial comments made me laugh. My poor mother got suckered into buying all of the uncirculated state quarters. Paid double face value. Ugh!
Haha thanks! That is so frustrating! I feel those commercials prey upon the older generations. Appreciate you watching!
My xwife got me into proof sets, she liked getting them. Birth years and significant-to-you-or-them years are decent gifts (when mixed with other gifts) as long as you don't pay too much for the proof set. It shows you recognize that year as important to them in some way.
..#4 on my channels to avoid
I would avoid ebay and Craig list altogether. Lots of scams.
DEFINITELY
Partially disagree, I have never had a problem with the products I have gotten from ebay. However, the quality can vary - from pretty good to excellent. And I don't buy expensive items from ebay - my rule nothing above $400 - 500, and usually much less. Anything above $400 should come from a source that you can at least check its authenticity. If I buy something like that from ebay a couple of rules: a) they have a brick and mortar store, b) they show at their store they are a member of one or more of the following NCG, PCGS, ANACS, subscriber to CDN or American Numismatic Association , c) they have been in business - ebay and elsewhere - for at least 10 years and offer a money-back guarantee. But as has been said in the video you MUST shop carefully on ebay.
Craigslist on the other hand is a NIGHTMARE. Would avoid like the plague.
Yes they typically have lousy resale value.
Thanks for watching!
Lmfao your so right
Haha thanks!
Hey, I enjoy your take on a lot of stuff -- although sometimes you talk too much. Say it once clearly and succinctly. No need to repeat yourself or beat a dead horse. I don't mind the twenty year old clad proof or mint sets -- the price is always right: a few bucks on Ebay; and once in a while you can score an MS67 or 68 "FULL STEPS" nickel, or a cameo Kennedy, or an MS67 or 68 red cent. That makes them worthwhile in my book -- but I can see where you're coming from. Also, some commems can be okay depending on the portrait or theme. For example, Louis Braille is never going to be as popular as Jackie Robinson! And (generally speaking) I would never want one graded less than proof or mint state 70! -- unless I bought it at the "melt" price -- which is available at times.
Appreciate the constructive feedback, I'll work on being more concise
@@CampbellsCoins You're doing great! Good learners make good teachers -- and good leaders.
I am barely getting interested in coins. Comment for the algorithm.
Pablo Mendoza cool, thanks man! 👊
Heil, sorry😂, in europe, shitholle according to trumpi, we have vreneli, sovereign, philharmonic, dukaten, all recognized, I am agreeing with you, l am bying bars, as I said coins are fun, but not value
I had to resubscribe to your channel. You're the second one today. Weird...
It happens. Welcome back!
Lol "worst investment than buying a car"
It made me mad
This stuff pissed me off too, knowing there is people out there who don't mind pulling this crap with other.
Your flag is backwards.