One of my rules of wrench twisting is that you always remove the difficult bolt first and put it back on last. In this case, it's not because it's harder to get off, but you are right, the chance of dropping it into the bellhousing is the issue. Thanks for the great input.
Did you remove a cable coming through the firewall just to the right and above the cps? I see a hole there in yours, but no cable. Mine has a plug and a cable there. I think it's going to be impossible to use this method with that in the way. It's a 98 sport. Theres a clear shot of the hole in the firewall at 4:40
I didn't remove any cable. I can only guess that the automatic XJ has something there that the manual tranny version (like mine) doesn't have. Or it could be for some other option my XJ doesn't have (mine is pretty much a no- option vehicle, other than cruise control).
Also great input. I suppose it would depend on the failure mode, as sometimes these things will work well enough to get the car started, but not keep it running very well.
@@Mark_H_DIY yes, they often fail when hot. I had a Mercedes that would breakdown at the same set of traffic lights three times day after day until, I managed to code read it at point of failure when still heat soaked😎
96 Cherokee here, if the engine turns over, and will actually fire if starter fluid is added to the intake but WONT stay running, is that a possible fuel pump issue? I have ZERO fuel pressure and I don’t hear it purring when I turn the battery on. So would the engine crank and fire with a bad CPS? Or should I be checking fuel pump?
If it fires up with starting fluid, you can forget about ignition problems. Your problem is the fuel pump, if you don't hear it hum when you turn the key on.
@@Mark_H_DIY appreciate it dude it sucks but at least it’s narrowed down to the issue. I’ve already switched relays and tested them so there’s power at the relay I gotta actually drop the tank and check the pump now I guess. Thanks!
@@thegrayjedi5202 yeah, once you verify that you have voltage going to the pump wires, there really isn't much left but to replace the pump. At least swapping a pump in an XJ isn't as bad as a lot of vehicles. I had a buddy with a diesel pickup, and he had to hoist the entire cab off the frame to get to the fuel pump.
How has the NTK crank sensor been for you? The OEM mopar sensor has been discontinued and the dealer can’t find 1 anywhere so I’ve had this jeep sitting for almost a year since buying it from a customer and I haven’t been able to use it since. As a mechanic I hate using cheap aftermarket sensors from the parts store and I know for importation sensors such as this one OEM parts work best but I don’t want to waste $ buying a different sensor over and over til I find 1 that works close to as good as a mopar sensor.
I couldn't agree more about using off-brand parts. But NTK is a known quality supplier for many Japanese and German cars, and I've used lots of their parts for decades without ever having a problem. The one I put in the Jeep has been working flawlessly since I did that video.
@@Mark_H_DIY I might just give it a shot I’ve been calling dealers in random states throughout the US and no luck I’ve been told to try a brand WVE who I was told previously made the mopar sensor for these jeeps but I couldn’t find anything to support this claim
@@Mark_H_DIY yes for the access itself for a code reader on the inside. But parts geek is giving me two different options to order my “style” of connector obd1 or obd2. Thanks for the reply
"Dirty" is an old sparky term that's used to describe (for example) the 12 volts DC battery voltage with large, spiky voltage variation. In my case, this was caused by a bad rectifier in the alternator. The alternator actually makes AC (Alternating Current) instead of the DC (Direct Current) our cars use, but "filters it" from AC to DC with the rectifiers (and other parts, but let's keep it basic). When one or more of these rectifiers fails, the conversion to a nice, "clean" 12 volts isn't successful, and a large component of the original AC gets through to the car's electrical system. In my case, you could hear the results of this in the radio, AND it was enough to disrupt the operation of the CPS as well. Hope that helps...
To avoid a world of pain dropping bolts in bell housing, top off first, back on last😎
One of my rules of wrench twisting is that you always remove the difficult bolt first and put it back on last. In this case, it's not because it's harder to get off, but you are right, the chance of dropping it into the bellhousing is the issue. Thanks for the great input.
Thank You Mark. your kindness is exemplary.
Thanks... Hope the video helped save you some time.
Great video, thank you for sharing!
@@ignaciocastaneda5777 glad it helped.
Really really good vid and method
Thanks!
Did you remove a cable coming through the firewall just to the right and above the cps? I see a hole there in yours, but no cable. Mine has a plug and a cable there. I think it's going to be impossible to use this method with that in the way. It's a 98 sport.
Theres a clear shot of the hole in the firewall at 4:40
I didn't remove any cable. I can only guess that the automatic XJ has something there that the manual tranny version (like mine) doesn't have. Or it could be for some other option my XJ doesn't have (mine is pretty much a no- option vehicle, other than cruise control).
Quick n dirty check for CPS operation....the rev counter will give a slight kick when cranking if ok😎
Also great input. I suppose it would depend on the failure mode, as sometimes these things will work well enough to get the car started, but not keep it running very well.
@@Mark_H_DIY yes, they often fail when hot.
I had a Mercedes that would breakdown at the same set of traffic lights three times day after day until, I managed to code read it at point of failure when still heat soaked😎
@@richardrichard5409 it's kinda funny how the CPS symptoms are pretty much the same across so many different vehicles.
96 Cherokee here, if the engine turns over, and will actually fire if starter fluid is added to the intake but WONT stay running, is that a possible fuel pump issue? I have ZERO fuel pressure and I don’t hear it purring when I turn the battery on.
So would the engine crank and fire with a bad CPS? Or should I be checking fuel pump?
If it fires up with starting fluid, you can forget about ignition problems. Your problem is the fuel pump, if you don't hear it hum when you turn the key on.
@@Mark_H_DIY appreciate it dude it sucks but at least it’s narrowed down to the issue. I’ve already switched relays and tested them so there’s power at the relay I gotta actually drop the tank and check the pump now I guess. Thanks!
@@thegrayjedi5202 yeah, once you verify that you have voltage going to the pump wires, there really isn't much left but to replace the pump. At least swapping a pump in an XJ isn't as bad as a lot of vehicles. I had a buddy with a diesel pickup, and he had to hoist the entire cab off the frame to get to the fuel pump.
How has the NTK crank sensor been for you? The OEM mopar sensor has been discontinued and the dealer can’t find 1 anywhere so I’ve had this jeep sitting for almost a year since buying it from a customer and I haven’t been able to use it since. As a mechanic I hate using cheap aftermarket sensors from the parts store and I know for importation sensors such as this one OEM parts work best but I don’t want to waste $ buying a different sensor over and over til I find 1 that works close to as good as a mopar sensor.
I couldn't agree more about using off-brand parts. But NTK is a known quality supplier for many Japanese and German cars, and I've used lots of their parts for decades without ever having a problem. The one I put in the Jeep has been working flawlessly since I did that video.
@@Mark_H_DIY I might just give it a shot I’ve been calling dealers in random states throughout the US and no luck I’ve been told to try a brand WVE who I was told previously made the mopar sensor for these jeeps but I couldn’t find anything to support this claim
@@Mobile-mechanicNM NTK is going to be head and shoulders above the parts store house brand parts. (IMHO)
Hello mark, is that an obd 1 cps or an obd 2? Mine looks like that, I’m just trying to figure out which one to order
Like all 1996 and later vehicles, it's OBD2.
@@Mark_H_DIY yes for the access itself for a code reader on the inside. But parts geek is giving me two different options to order my “style” of connector obd1 or obd2. Thanks for the reply
I'm guessing your XJ is pre-1996 then (but I honestly don't know anything about their OBD configuration - sorry).
how can voltage be dirty?
"Dirty" is an old sparky term that's used to describe (for example) the 12 volts DC battery voltage with large, spiky voltage variation. In my case, this was caused by a bad rectifier in the alternator. The alternator actually makes AC (Alternating Current) instead of the DC (Direct Current) our cars use, but "filters it" from AC to DC with the rectifiers (and other parts, but let's keep it basic). When one or more of these rectifiers fails, the conversion to a nice, "clean" 12 volts isn't successful, and a large component of the original AC gets through to the car's electrical system. In my case, you could hear the results of this in the radio, AND it was enough to disrupt the operation of the CPS as well. Hope that helps...
about to do this on a 97 I think its the same...
Good luck with the swap. Let me know how it goes.
Oh, and yes - swapping out the CPS (or alternator...) should be the same.
Does it have to be mounted back down there ???
You have to reinstall it just like it came out.
Won't work anywhere else😮