Man, you are one of the calmest, nicest, easygoing people I ever saw. If I dropped a bolt like that into the bell housing, the next town would hear me cursing and yelling like a frikin maniac. Love your vids man!!!
Lmao.. gotta stay focused.. losing your cool won't make the bolt come out any faster 🤣. that being said my forearm got a few screams and 4 letter words shouted into it! thanks for compliments and support 💪
Changed mine three times in a month. That was like two years ago. MOPAR OEM is the only CPS that is reliable. 20 min tops to change from underneath. Used around 11 inches of extensions, one being a wobble. I found it easier to disconnect the two shifter bolts to get your hand in on 4x4. Also, put a little grease in socket to hold bolt when installing.
Thank you - excellent video- 67yr fm now doing some of my own repairs! 😊 Wish I had started younger! So glad I found your channel. Very informative, detailed and pleasant to watch! Your my new "jeep go to guy"! Thanks again!
Ah, the fun of diagnosing “Why will my XJ not start?” 😂😂 I’m super lucky we didn’t run into problems when “the Grey Goat “ was overheating last year! Did an electric fan override and haven’t had a single problem with overheating 🙌 Great video!! ❤️🐞
The struggle was real for sure Dan and pops . Awesome your pops was there to help you out . I have everything to do the coil rail delete and will be doing that this spring among a ton of other things to my TJ . Looking forward to your next video . Take care and be safe .
A few weeks ago I parked my car at a park and came back to it, and it wouldn't start. Thought it was the crankshaft position sensor, because like yours the starter turned over fine. Noticed the gas was really low. Filled a gas can and poured it in the XJ and it started after a few goes. Never thought I would be so happy to run out of gas. I was ecstatic that I wasn't going to have to change the sensor!
Thank you so much for providing caution warnings and tips to the uninformed! Do not take off the wrong bolt when taking out the Camshaft sensor! Good on you.
The easiest way to change the CPS is to use literally 2 feet worth of extensions and a swivel head. Feed it from the back of the transmission to the front. It will help also yo have someone with small hands to line you up but it's not needed. Also buy your CPS from the dealer save the trouble and spend the $100 for it or go pull 4 or 5 of them from a junkyard
totally right Tony, first thought one had to be a contortionist from on top of engine under the hood, thank gawd i figured it out with the extensions, piece of cake, and once you've done it once it basically becomes a 5 minute job the next time you need to replace it
@@mikeboston421 that’s right! Especially when you’re in the same boat as Dan and are circling back to CPS since I stupidly replaced with a $17 Amazon part. Shouldn’t take too long tho
My 2000 WJ likes to screw with me. Got it for $600, no drivetrain problems except that double CV joint front driveshaft was bad, easy fix. Now sensors... Replaced the O², Camshaft position sensor, Plugs and coil rail, Coolant Temperature Sensor, Thermostat, and just recently the Throttle Position Sensor. I changed the TPS yesterday after a P0123, P0121 and P1596 codes, the CE light stayed on and it stayed in failsafe mode... Until today. Today? CE light is out and it's running fine. I guess threatening to take it to the mechanic worked. So until the next time a sensor goes out, safe travels.
@@ProjectDanH Yeah I'm glad it's old enough that even with faulty sensors (minus that Camshaft position sensor, that left me dead in the parking lot), I can still drive it relatively fine thanks to everything being attached mechanically. Especially the 4 wheel drive. Everyone I know who has electronic 4 wheel drive on a vehicle older than 10 years old ALWAYS has problems. Rust belt man.
Just did the job after watching your video. I used a long extension w/ 6pt 11m. Taped the bolt in place with black electrical tape before sending it up. Could not get hands anywhere near the mounting point, so used a telescoping magnet wand to hold the CPS in place while starting the first bolt. Interestingly - mine failed from the exact same ailment - the overflow hose detached while plowing during the last storm. All good now- thanks for sharing!
I used a helper to get the bolt lined up from above the motor while I was under the truck with many extensions drooping on my ratchet... The helper was my girlfriend. That was four years ago, on our 2000 XJ Limited. She's my wife now. And the Jeep still runs.
@@ProjectDanH Actually, there's more to that. I only buy dealer parts. But I asked the dealer if he'd be OK with me sticking my multimeter probes through the bag to test the new part before installing it and if he'd take a return if it were defective--that way he knew I didn't kill the part and I wasn't out the cost of the sensor if the MOPAR one turned out to be defective. He agreed, as long as the bag wasn't FULLY OPEN, to take back the part if I only made two small punctures. (It pays to ask!) Also, I checked the resistance of my original sensor to prove it was bad before purchasing a replacement. Another-- *ahem* --well-known Jeep channel on CZcams had the info I needed...hosted by a guy named Matt. In Tennessee... I now test everything this way. And that's helpful info on the "NO BUS" thing. Wish I knew that a couple years ago before I opened my PCM looking for possible problems when chasing a mysterious issue...
cool & very entertaining video, dude - ending up in a night job - all very authentic ! I also learned the lessons - to firstly screw in the lower bolt and fix it with the small plastic shield on the bell housing , then the upper bolt so it can't fall into the bell housing .....
just get a 20" extension and put a piece of shop towel in the socket to hold the bolt in i did it that way in 30 minutes my xj when hot outside would die then cool off in 30 minutes it would run. and put the shifter to first gear that gives you a lot more room for extension
That is the only sensor I didn't replace on the Bumble Jeep when chasing down a rough running, miss fire issue. Didn't use any Mopar replacement parts, got them all from Rock Auto (best price) due to budget constraints. Never did figure out what was the actual issue was. Some how, when installing the new plug wires (one at a time) I got two of them reversed. When I finally double checked the firing order for the umpteenth time and got it right it ran fine. Go figure. God bless, stay well.
Great video 👍 love the tool idea 🏆... ( i did the extensions and put some tape around the swivel to keep it a little straight... it still didn't idle right and i didn't think it was fixed yet BUTT.... to reset whatever 🙄 i revved up to 2 grand for 5 minutes and thats what helped on my 2000 limited 👍
I put a crown ckps in my sons xj last year. It's still working. A lifted xj is probably easier to get to than factory. Just did a WJ ckps, now that was a job! I put a "standard" part from O'Reilly's in that one
@@ProjectDanH the hole is already there in the WJ. Pull back the carpet on the driver's side of the transmissision hump. There are 2- 4 pointed metal plates that shift linkage feeds through to fire wall. They are secured by 2-10mm nuts on each plate. The upper of the 2 is the one you go thru. When you open it you can see the sensor but no hand access from here wrench only. You will have to unscrew floor duct elbow to have room for your ratchet. I- 4" extension 1-11mm socket 1-swivel or universal Duct tape or electrical tape all of the extension joints together. Undo bolt with ratchet to finger loose. Go back up top. Remove throttle body cover and any vacuum lines in the way. Loosen bolt and remove carefully. WJ's CKPS connector is on passenger side so take care in routing new sensor. Its very easy to get hung up in the multiple wire harnesses. To me this option was better than dropping the transmission crossmember. I like your videos. I've had 4 jeeps 1 was stolen 2000-TJ now have 3 2010Jk 1999 WJ 1997XJ
@@misstransgender barely. The girl I was with got a skull fracture. And a whole mess of stuff but she’s alive. I had no carpets in it no headliner was gonna redo them . So it was all steal in there no cushion. I had no air bags . I was wearing my seatbelt she was not . She got ejected
I had to do my Crankshaft position sensor also from the bottom and top. For the top, I had a piece of rubber pad to lay on top of the engine to make it easier on my body - lol
It worked well to attack it from the top and the bottom... I used a towel and a floor mat only after I realized I scratched my new header panel with my belt buckle 😱😱😱
Just did one on son's XJ and was easier from underneath and just dropping driveshaft off front yoke and let it hang which gives you direct access to it. From top there was to much stuff in the way.
I feel for ya, Buddy. Had to do several of these. I found the easiest way (for me at least) is to unbolt the transfer case crossmember lower everything down with a floor jack and drop the front of the front driveshaft. Works good for the 2-bolt sensors, even better for the 1 bolt sensors (ZJ's have these) But when it comes right down to it, what ever way is easiest for you. I have bear claw hands, so top-side really isn't an option
I love my XJ's but every great vehicle still has it's achille's heel and that crankshaft sensor is it for XJ's of all years. haha I usually get it from underneath with a couple swivel socket adaptors and extensions. As you said ALWAYS... I mean ALWAYS go with the original Mopar one. Other aftermarket ones are very hit or miss. I'd rather pay more and know I'll likely get another 10+ years from it than having to do it again a day later. Man, sorry you had a bolt fall into the bell housing... I've been lucky to not have that happen but you recovered well from that. haha Great video, love the XJ content!
Nice job Lieutenant Dan😂😂I had to learn the hard way about replacing sensors with cheap aftermarket ones.OEM Mopar sensors are all I use on all my Chrysler vehicles.Your Dad had the right idea there.I use about 3ft of extensions and a wobble wrapped in electrical tape to replace mine.That was pretty creative with the wrench though..😁😁👍👍💪💪
It’s really funny to see I’m not alone in the XJ misery world. Surprised to see the magnet didn’t transfer to the flex plate from the hanger that would have been the last straw.
What I do with bolts or screws that are very difficult to put back on in tight spaces is wrap some long thread around the bolt a few times for just in case. Then remove after you got it threaded in! 👍
For me it was easier to just drop the driveshaft because my hands aren’t exactly small. It takes a few extra minutes but gives a whole lot more room to work from underneath to get to the CPS and I don’t need a bunch of extensions on a socket.
18 inch extension with swivel and a good light from underneath. Did mine this fall, 35 minutes start to finish. Use a little paper in the socket to hold bolts when putting it back in.
Man I miss my 99 classic 🦅🇺🇸💯👊👍and I can’t believe the screw fell in that hole crazy I hope that never happens to me I don’t think I’d would have handled it like you.. 👍
Nice Jeeps bro thanks for the info, mine is throwing that code I'm pretty sure that's it but now i have to figure out how to get to it since I don't have a blow tourch. I've noticed the heat issue, since its hot where I'm at (far far west TX), it has been in and out. Thanks for taking the time!
@@ProjectDanH I put one on my jeep this summer. GA heat did not affect it at all after that. When it is spring, I'll replace the A/C clutch coil and add a high flow water pump. Worked great for the old engine. After flushing out the heater core, heat is best it's been in years.
Yeah it's crazy up there! I'm going to have to buy some more extensions. It worked really well to attack it from both angles. It's definitely great to have a helping hand.
I did mine a couple years ago and it was easier to come in underneath of the driver's side it took a couple of swivels and a couple of extensions but pretty simple
@@ProjectDanH I did that as well. My jeep did not come with the cover so it was easy to retrieve. I Highly recommend these magnetic extensions. I use them often. Performance Tool W30932 Magnetic Extension Set, 3 Piece www.amazon.com/dp/B073K26SSH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_PW9114XTK1S0W57579GW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Bro if you ever need a computer... call flagship one in nassau ..awesome place , plug n play computers . They program them to your vin so no flashing needed
My XJ has this problem its just been in the driveway for years but I've finally found an oem Mopar crank shaft position sensor.. (Good luck not only locating but getting the bracket off/on) Im about to bend the hell outta my 11mm
I am doing this exact job tomorrow. All the dealerships near me told me that they no longer make the part so I ended up going with a premium NAPA one which I've heard is the only decent substitution. We will see if it works!
@@ProjectDanH replaced about two weeks ago ish. Has not been an issue so far it idles fine and runs fine... And of course starts which it wasn't doing before I put the new one in so, that's a win!
I have a 1997 laredo and we got a code for a bad coil. Changed that still runs.... Sometimes. Itll drive for like 30 mins then once we get to a store and it sets then we start to crank it up it wants to die out. After letting it set for a bit we then can kinda make it home but only constantly foot on gas putting it in neutral at stops etc to hold gas. I cant only assume its a CPS but theres no codes at all
Ok so the first test for the cps is easy first crank it and see if the tack moves If the tack don't move cps is dead for sure Next test it's got 3 wire one will be ground one will be 5v reference from pcm/ecu other will be the signal wire usually middle wire in the plug put your multi meter on that wire and crank the engine over by hand to TDC mark turn the engine over one complete turn by hand the meter should blink 5v ish volts 12 times in one complete Revolution of the engine if it's missing one notch that could/will be a miss fire for a dead cyclinder it's a waste spark system and it fires in exhaust stroke that's why it's 12 The missing cover was removed by the guy who put in the autozone junk sensor
Can you not get to the cps in from the interior like you can a wj? I thought there was an access panel under the dash on right floor under carpet that allows you to just hit the bolts with a ratchet etc...
Dang, you just answered my question right off - Do I need to buy the gold plated Mopar sensor (third time needs to be replaced in a matter of months)...I will hold my breath and try to squeeze some more dollars out of a diminished wallet for the official Jeep sensor. Love the tip about the wrench.
I feel for ya guy Today I just replaced mine an u know an I know. An I think everyone with a Xj should know What a pain n the @%#. It is to do I went from bottom. With 3. Ex. An 3\ 8 air gun. Mine did not have the cover an I to dropped bolt down to bottom of Tran An like u had to take cover off Lol. What a pain good job 👍. Keep em going 👍
i feel your pain on the cps sensor 😂 mine is lifted 3.5 and on 31s and a 5.2 that sensor was a bitch and it was a zj those suck too because the bolts don't want to go back home 😂 jeep my life right
Perhaps practice makes perfect but I just swapped out one and under 10 minutes. You're going to want to use about 3ft of extension and a swivel on a ratchet. Move the kickdown cable easy access. Again practice makes. First-time took me a couple hours lol
Any ideas what a p1391 code would be caused by? P1391- The Engine Control Module (ECM) detected the actual Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) position disagreed with the expected CMP level. Jeep has a slight misfire at idle but runs great overall. I ordered up an NTK CPS to swap in.
Yeah, wasn't too bad. A couple long extensions from underneath, piece of cake. Though that wasn't my issue. Still won't start, scantool won't communicate, and can bus on dash. This Jeep is really pissing me off.
Good thing you were able to find that bolt. That job looks crazy! Too bad about the tool. It looks like you have a few of those Crank Position Sensors. By any chance do you know where to get an XJ electric fan pigtail?
Crankshaft is bad only if my jeep not start . what other problem show if the crank is bad? I have the problem on my xj going out start the engine check engine light stay on drive for half hour stop the engine went I stared again check engine gone
Ok on my jeep if not start the first time the second time crank but the engine not start i have to put my foot to the gas pedal then start but sound like is flooded i change the injector the distributor sensor the same problem and the mecanic said was the heat sensor switch i spend 1000 dollas to fix the problem but thank you i own my jeep 22 years
'89 Pioneer (XJ) doesn't have nearly the room you have on yours. I can't even get one hand into place, much less hold the part in place to put the 7mm 1.0 bolt with 11mm head in. Wish they had used studs, as they'd kind of keep the part in place while one could at least put one nut on to pull the part into place, thus the second nut or even bolt could be installed. Think I'm going to use a bit of heat shrink on the wobble head to limit the angle once I have someone help me by holding the part in place above while I attempt to put the bolts in from below. Pretty sure on any make or model of vehicle there's always got to be one thing that's got to be a PITA to get to.
@@ProjectDanH (Update) 2022 May 17th - Using a borescope I was able to spot the bolt that I had dropped in behind the flywheel. Once spotted I was basically able to use a "16 penny" nail to get it to slide towards the drivers side to which it came out rather easy. Earlier I had used my garden hose to spray water down into the cavity behind the flywheel which washed the bolt to the bottom and center behind the access plate. This time while inserting and getting the bolt started I decided to use some heavy thread tied onto the bolt with a pare of forceps clamped on the other end should I drop it again ("safety line"). Sorry I haven't been able to update this until today as I've been busy with life. xD lol
97 GC will have a distributor not a camshaft sensor. It does have a crank shaft sensor tho. Map sensor, TB sensor and IAC sensor will all be on the intake
My 1996 Jeep Cherokee 4.0l stalled on the freeway, no over heating issue. It turns, but will not hit. I changed the injectors and fuel filter, and the fuel pump works. No spark. Should I change the camshaft or crankshaft sensor? Or, both?
1. wasn't my vehicle. wasn't familiar with the symptoms 2. process of elimination ruling out simple things first is easier 3. CZcams content.. info for your benefit
Hey Dan thanks for the videos have used a few to fix a few things already. I wanted to ask you I have a 97 zj 4.0 when it’s cold it starts right up. Once I get it going and turn it on again it struggles to crank sometimes I have to crank it twice. What should I be looking at to replace. I’ve done the fuel pump and o2 upstream sensor for separate issues. And sparks are still fairly new.
@@ProjectDanH thanks anyways big dog. Definitely not getting one from the box stores. Much appreciated looking forward to the next video.. Hey do you have a showcase Cinema next to your location?? I have employee passes for you and the family if you want 👍
i miss a diagnose, and change the undamage cps. i change the cps with the aftermarket, those crown type. and you know what happen next. the engine knocks real bad and shake, i immediately shut the car off. one word of advice like Dan H sez... use mopar on critical sensor or you'll hurt the engine
I used my impact, 3 feet of extensions and two wobble joints to get to the cps bolts. Took 5 minutes to swap mine lol
Time for me to invest at new extensions! Great work man!!!
Me too and it took maybe 15mins
i realize I'm kinda randomly asking but do anybody know a good place to watch newly released movies online?
@Gage Shiloh Flixportal xD
@Kohen Byron thank you, I signed up and it seems to work =) I appreciate it !!
Man, you are one of the calmest, nicest, easygoing people I ever saw. If I dropped a bolt like that into the bell housing, the next town would hear me cursing and yelling like a frikin maniac. Love your vids man!!!
Lmao.. gotta stay focused.. losing your cool won't make the bolt come out any faster 🤣. that being said my forearm got a few screams and 4 letter words shouted into it! thanks for compliments and support 💪
Changed mine three times in a month. That was like two years ago. MOPAR OEM is the only CPS that is reliable. 20 min tops to change from underneath. Used around 11 inches of extensions, one being a wobble. I found it easier to disconnect the two shifter bolts to get your hand in on 4x4. Also, put a little grease in socket to hold bolt when installing.
Solid info right there! Thanks for the input. MOPAR only!!!
And just like that another running Jeep for your dealership 😂😂
Haha! The Jay leno of Jeeps!
hahaha!! are we on 10 or 11 now?
@@motownXJdad9565 dude.. I can't keep track.. 9 Jeeps + 1 Mustang.. I think
Stealerships....they are called stealerships
Thank you - excellent video- 67yr fm now doing some of my own repairs! 😊 Wish I had started younger! So glad I found your channel. Very informative, detailed and pleasant to watch! Your my new "jeep go to guy"! Thanks again!
Ah, the fun of diagnosing “Why will my XJ not start?” 😂😂
I’m super lucky we didn’t run into problems when “the Grey Goat “ was overheating last year! Did an electric fan override and haven’t had a single problem with overheating 🙌
Great video!! ❤️🐞
The Joys of Jeep! Lol. Your goat is the GOAT! 🙌🙌🙌
@@ProjectDanH - GOAT= Go Off-road Any Time!!!!
police jeeps have the override from the factory, with the much sought after 4 switch panel😁
@@motownXJdad9565 nope unfortunately not.. just a high idle
The struggle was real for sure Dan and pops . Awesome your pops was there to help you out . I have everything to do the coil rail delete and will be doing that this spring among a ton of other things to my TJ . Looking forward to your next video . Take care and be safe .
Thank you brother! Keep me posted on your delete! I want pics on Instagram!! 👍
A few weeks ago I parked my car at a park and came back to it, and it wouldn't start. Thought it was the crankshaft position sensor, because like yours the starter turned over fine. Noticed the gas was really low. Filled a gas can and poured it in the XJ and it started after a few goes. Never thought I would be so happy to run out of gas. I was ecstatic that I wasn't going to have to change the sensor!
Damn dude you got lucky! You have no idea how bad I was hoping it to be a low gas issue 🤣🤣🤣
Thank you so much for providing caution warnings and tips to the uninformed! Do not take off the wrong bolt when taking out the Camshaft sensor! Good on you.
Glad it helped
Hey Dan, greetings from the UK. Out of all the tutorials I see online, yours are the best. This one is very useful. Thank you Sir😊👍
Thank you so much Chris! Thank you for watching!
The easiest way to change the CPS is to use literally 2 feet worth of extensions and a swivel head. Feed it from the back of the transmission to the front. It will help also yo have someone with small hands to line you up but it's not needed. Also buy your CPS from the dealer save the trouble and spend the $100 for it or go pull 4 or 5 of them from a junkyard
Great tips! Thanks Tony
totally right Tony, first thought one had to be a contortionist from on top of engine under the hood, thank gawd i figured it out with the extensions, piece of cake, and once you've done it once it basically becomes a 5 minute job the next time you need to replace it
@@mikeboston421 that’s right! Especially when you’re in the same boat as Dan and are circling back to CPS since I stupidly replaced with a $17 Amazon part. Shouldn’t take too long tho
Freaking pain……..
Getting ready to do this on my son's ZJ...immediately searched your channel for this video. Thanks for all you do Dan!
Glad to help, God speed!
My 2000 WJ likes to screw with me. Got it for $600, no drivetrain problems except that double CV joint front driveshaft was bad, easy fix. Now sensors... Replaced the O², Camshaft position sensor, Plugs and coil rail, Coolant Temperature Sensor, Thermostat, and just recently the Throttle Position Sensor. I changed the TPS yesterday after a P0123, P0121 and P1596 codes, the CE light stayed on and it stayed in failsafe mode... Until today. Today? CE light is out and it's running fine. I guess threatening to take it to the mechanic worked. So until the next time a sensor goes out, safe travels.
Oh man.. mopar computers can certainly put you through the ringer! Sometimes it takes a while for the codes to clear in the PCM. Best of luck!
@@ProjectDanH Yeah I'm glad it's old enough that even with faulty sensors (minus that Camshaft position sensor, that left me dead in the parking lot), I can still drive it relatively fine thanks to everything being attached mechanically. Especially the 4 wheel drive. Everyone I know who has electronic 4 wheel drive on a vehicle older than 10 years old ALWAYS has problems. Rust belt man.
@@TheNiteNinja19 rust belt!
Just did the job after watching your video. I used a long extension w/ 6pt 11m. Taped the bolt in place with black electrical tape before sending it up. Could not get hands anywhere near the mounting point, so used a telescoping magnet wand to hold the CPS in place while starting the first bolt. Interestingly - mine failed from the exact same ailment - the overflow hose detached while plowing during the last storm. All good now- thanks for sharing!
Excellent Job Brother!!
That feeling of relief when that bolt came out 😂 Love the red lighting!
24:20 I can't remember how many times I've been in that position working on cars.
🤣🤣🤣 do what ya gotta do!
Excellent video Dan! The two people who disliked it must have broken their 11mm wrench trying to bend it. LOL
LMAO.. losers 🤣
I used a helper to get the bolt lined up from above the motor while I was under the truck with many extensions drooping on my ratchet...
The helper was my girlfriend. That was four years ago, on our 2000 XJ Limited. She's my wife now. And the Jeep still runs.
That's a beautiful story brother!
@@ProjectDanH Actually, there's more to that.
I only buy dealer parts. But I asked the dealer if he'd be OK with me sticking my multimeter probes through the bag to test the new part before installing it and if he'd take a return if it were defective--that way he knew I didn't kill the part and I wasn't out the cost of the sensor if the MOPAR one turned out to be defective. He agreed, as long as the bag wasn't FULLY OPEN, to take back the part if I only made two small punctures. (It pays to ask!)
Also, I checked the resistance of my original sensor to prove it was bad before purchasing a replacement. Another-- *ahem* --well-known Jeep channel on CZcams had the info I needed...hosted by a guy named Matt. In Tennessee...
I now test everything this way.
And that's helpful info on the "NO BUS" thing. Wish I knew that a couple years ago before I opened my PCM looking for possible problems when chasing a mysterious issue...
Awesome job, i bet thats what I will look like if I ever get the guts to change my valve cover. Way to go to you and your Dad.
Thanks man! It was definitely a team effort!
cool & very entertaining video, dude - ending up in a night job - all very authentic ! I also learned the lessons - to firstly screw in the lower bolt and fix it with the small plastic shield on the bell housing , then the upper bolt so it can't fall into the bell housing .....
Thanks for watching! I try to give you guys entertaining Projects in as much detail as I possible can! glad you picked up some tips too!
Totally and off topic comment but you gotta love those little kid public schools chair! I've got three and use them all the time when working on cars
LMAO! Great observation!!!
just get a 20" extension and put a piece of shop towel in the socket to hold the bolt in i did it that way in 30 minutes my xj when hot outside would die then cool off in 30 minutes it would run. and put the shifter to first gear that gives you a lot more room for extension
Solid tips brother! Thanks for the input!!!
That is the only sensor I didn't replace on the Bumble Jeep when chasing down a rough running, miss fire issue. Didn't use any Mopar replacement parts, got them all from Rock Auto (best price) due to budget constraints. Never did figure out what was the actual issue was. Some how, when installing the new plug wires (one at a time) I got two of them reversed. When I finally double checked the firing order for the umpteenth time and got it right it ran fine. Go figure. God bless, stay well.
lol.. It's actually easier mix the plug wires them than you think! lol. always got to label them! Glad you figured it out bro
Ok,, I’ll go shovel out the XJ this morning. Why not? Michigan Blizzard
Omg man... I hate the snow!
I got it done!! 4wd drifting all the way to McD’s for lunch! Great to be a hero today!💪
@@Zoofactory That's awesome dude You got that McRib over there? Lol
Great video 👍 love the tool idea 🏆... ( i did the extensions and put some tape around the swivel to keep it a little straight... it still didn't idle right and i didn't think it was fixed yet BUTT.... to reset whatever 🙄 i revved up to 2 grand for 5 minutes and thats what helped on my 2000 limited 👍
I put a crown ckps in my sons xj last year. It's still working. A lifted xj is probably easier to get to than factory. Just did a WJ ckps, now that was a job! I put a "standard" part from O'Reilly's in that one
Good to know brother!! Ever think about cutting a hole in the firewall for access???
@@ProjectDanH the hole is already there in the WJ. Pull back the carpet on the driver's side of the transmissision hump. There are 2- 4 pointed metal plates that shift linkage feeds through to fire wall. They are secured by 2-10mm nuts on each plate. The upper of the 2 is the one you go thru. When you open it you can see the sensor but no hand access from here wrench only. You will have to unscrew floor duct elbow to have room for your ratchet.
I- 4" extension
1-11mm socket
1-swivel or universal
Duct tape or electrical tape all of the extension joints together.
Undo bolt with ratchet to finger loose.
Go back up top. Remove throttle body cover and any vacuum lines in the way. Loosen bolt and remove carefully.
WJ's CKPS connector is on passenger side so take care in routing new sensor. Its very easy to get hung up in the multiple wire harnesses. To me this option was better than dropping the transmission crossmember.
I like your videos. I've had 4 jeeps 1 was stolen 2000-TJ now have 3
2010Jk
1999 WJ
1997XJ
I was gonna say the extension and getting it from underneath works better
But no one wants to lay on the ground when it's freezing! You know that! Lol
Man Tuesday night I rolled my beautiful 98 ZJ she was just getting her life back into her. Bought it from my brother before his demise
Grab another one and start again! Use your old one for parts. You got this bro 💪
@@ProjectDanH it one big mess brother
that sad hope you were ok
@@misstransgender barely. The girl I was with got a skull fracture. And a whole mess of stuff but she’s alive. I had no carpets in it no headliner was gonna redo them . So it was all steal in there no cushion. I had no air bags . I was wearing my seatbelt she was not . She got ejected
as long as your ok jeeps can replaced people can not
I had to do my Crankshaft position sensor also from the bottom and top. For the top, I had a piece of rubber pad to lay on top of the engine to make it easier on my body - lol
It worked well to attack it from the top and the bottom... I used a towel and a floor mat only after I realized I scratched my new header panel with my belt buckle 😱😱😱
Just did one on son's XJ and was easier from underneath and just dropping driveshaft off front yoke and let it hang which gives you direct access to it. From top there was to much stuff in the way.
Yes. I got a set of extensions now . It's easier from the bottom... Even tho your 4 feet away. Lmao
"I need a nap". Nice recovery.
🤣
I did one on my 03. Used a long extension with a wobble socket.
Excellent!
I feel for ya, Buddy. Had to do several of these. I found the easiest way (for me at least) is to unbolt the transfer case crossmember lower everything down with a floor jack and drop the front of the front driveshaft. Works good for the 2-bolt sensors, even better for the 1 bolt sensors (ZJ's have these) But when it comes right down to it, what ever way is easiest for you. I have bear claw hands, so top-side really isn't an option
yeah if you can't reach from the top the bottom is your only option! I love hearing everybody's tricks in the comments! Awesome job 💪
Where is the fuel cut off switch Located at. On a 1995 Jeep Cherokee..5.2
❤
I love my XJ's but every great vehicle still has it's achille's heel and that crankshaft sensor is it for XJ's of all years. haha I usually get it from underneath with a couple swivel socket adaptors and extensions. As you said ALWAYS... I mean ALWAYS go with the original Mopar one. Other aftermarket ones are very hit or miss. I'd rather pay more and know I'll likely get another 10+ years from it than having to do it again a day later. Man, sorry you had a bolt fall into the bell housing... I've been lucky to not have that happen but you recovered well from that. haha Great video, love the XJ content!
thanks man! I really appreciate it! 💪
Classic reminder to always use OEM parts thanks for the heads up
Nice job Lieutenant Dan😂😂I had to learn the hard way about replacing sensors with cheap aftermarket ones.OEM Mopar sensors are all I use on all my Chrysler vehicles.Your Dad had the right idea there.I use about 3ft of extensions and a wobble wrapped in electrical tape to replace mine.That was pretty creative with the wrench though..😁😁👍👍💪💪
Yay I'm a Lt. Now! Thanks for the promotion Dan! Yes, I tried everything I could not to lay on the freezing ground but sometimes ya just gotta do it
It's alive 😁👍🏾
I like the red foot lights
Heck yeah!
Nice job. I always look forward to changing those crankshaft sensors.
Haha! No thanks!
And this is why I have a 33" 3/8 extension
I'm going to order four 12-in extensions right now!
i kinda figured that was the culprit on the jeep day vid you posted
Lol.. Bingo! The only thing that threw me off was the fact that my brother already replaced it! I hate cheap parts!
@@ProjectDanH yup that would have stumped me too, dont feel bad man.
It’s really funny to see I’m not alone in the XJ misery world. Surprised to see the magnet didn’t transfer to the flex plate from the hanger that would have been the last straw.
What I do with bolts or screws that are very difficult to put back on in tight spaces is wrap some long thread around the bolt a few times for just in case. Then remove after you got it threaded in! 👍
excellent trick!
or jam a bit of plastic bag in between bolt and socket....
For me it was easier to just drop the driveshaft because my hands aren’t exactly small. It takes a few extra minutes but gives a whole lot more room to work from underneath to get to the CPS and I don’t need a bunch of extensions on a socket.
Who else subscribed just because dad was wearing the NRA cap? :) Great work too, Dan!
Lol! Thanks for the support!
A lot of guys get the bolts with extensions and say it isn’t too bad. Dreading doing mine
Extensions are great to get the bolt on the driver side.. The 11-mm wrench worked better to get the bolt on the top. Grab a buddy and buy a 12-pack 🤣
18 inch extension with swivel and a good light from underneath. Did mine this fall, 35 minutes start to finish. Use a little paper in the socket to hold bolts when putting it back in.
@@MrSnowford excellent advise! Thanks Scott!
Man I miss my 99 classic 🦅🇺🇸💯👊👍and I can’t believe the screw fell in that hole crazy I hope that never happens to me I don’t think I’d would have handled it like you.. 👍
Well after a couple off camera curse words I took a deep breath and focused on the task at hand! Lol Ya just got to keep pushing forward! 👍
Nice Jeeps bro thanks for the info, mine is throwing that code I'm pretty sure that's it but now i have to figure out how to get to it since I don't have a blow tourch. I've noticed the heat issue, since its hot where I'm at (far far west TX), it has been in and out. Thanks for taking the time!
Thanks for watching!!!! good luck with your Jeep!
got a 97 zj... bout to replace that dang thing... hope it starts :)
Also, if you had planned to due an aluminum radiator I’m on standby for that! lol ty again for the great content.
Thanks man! I'm thinking mishimoto for Beach Jeep! 👍
@@ProjectDanH I put one on my jeep this summer. GA heat did not affect it at all after that.
When it is spring, I'll replace the A/C clutch coil and add a high flow water pump. Worked great for the old engine. After flushing out the heater core, heat is best it's been in years.
@@abstract1dea yes! Nothing like fresh juices to transfer that heat!
For future reference just drop the trans crossmember and access from underneath is easy peasy of course lower trans after crossmember removal
Makes sense! Thanks for the input!!!
Awesome video as usual! Love watching your vids! Keep it up!
Thank you for watching, glad you like them!
I actually found it a lot easier to access the censor from the bottom, it may be because I have a 99xj but I don’t know
The bottom with long extensions is probably the easiest way to go
Damn could of helped you u can come in under neath with a 4 foot extension and swivel socket getting it back in is another story
Yeah it's crazy up there! I'm going to have to buy some more extensions. It worked really well to attack it from both angles. It's definitely great to have a helping hand.
I did mine a couple years ago and it was easier to come in underneath of the driver's side it took a couple of swivels and a couple of extensions but pretty simple
nice! that will be the way in go in the future
I got mine out with a lot of extensions and a magnetic adapter with swivel. 20 min job.
Magnets! 🙌🙌🙌 Mine coulda been 20 if I didn't drop the bolt into the bell housing 🤣🤣🤣
@@ProjectDanH I did that as well. My jeep did not come with the cover so it was easy to retrieve. I Highly recommend these magnetic extensions. I use them often. Performance Tool W30932 Magnetic Extension Set, 3 Piece www.amazon.com/dp/B073K26SSH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_PW9114XTK1S0W57579GW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
@@mikeallen4576 purchased!
Bro if you ever need a computer... call flagship one in nassau ..awesome place , plug n play computers . They program them to your vin so no flashing needed
yep! my mechanic Gabe uses flagship on all the mopars that go to his shop 🤣
if you turn the key and there is no crank then its the nss (neutral safety switch)
Yes, sometimes!
Good weork
Thank you 👍
@lilbuddha 🤣🤣🤣 nailed it!
I use a 4foot extension with a swivel to get at that cps
that seams like it's the way to go
I had that issue , it ended up being the plug ,one of the plugs to the computer .. what a pain in the butt figuring that one out
such a pain!
How I test if crankshaft is working or not
My XJ has this problem its just been in the driveway for years but I've finally found an oem Mopar crank shaft position sensor..
(Good luck not only locating but getting the bracket off/on)
Im about to bend the hell outta my 11mm
lol.. Good luck brother!
Been seeing a lot of bad parts from new.
Don't cheap out. Esp. with MAF sensors.
💯💯💯💪💪💪
Moments where "that's what she said" would have been hilarious 20:08
HaHa, I should have had my wife there to say it!
Excellent video 👍👍
Thank you ninja!
great job
👍👍
I am doing this exact job tomorrow. All the dealerships near me told me that they no longer make the part so I ended up going with a premium NAPA one which I've heard is the only decent substitution. We will see if it works!
Let me know how it works, MOPAR ones on eBay are expensive!
@@ProjectDanH replaced about two weeks ago ish. Has not been an issue so far it idles fine and runs fine... And of course starts which it wasn't doing before I put the new one in so, that's a win!
I have a 1997 laredo and we got a code for a bad coil. Changed that still runs.... Sometimes. Itll drive for like 30 mins then once we get to a store and it sets then we start to crank it up it wants to die out. After letting it set for a bit we then can kinda make it home but only constantly foot on gas putting it in neutral at stops etc to hold gas. I cant only assume its a CPS but theres no codes at all
It could be a bad PCM.
@@ProjectDanH possibly. I wiggled the connection but there weren’t any hesitation or anything
Ok so the first test for the cps is easy first crank it and see if the tack moves
If the tack don't move cps is dead for sure
Next test it's got 3 wire one will be ground one will be 5v reference from pcm/ecu other will be the signal wire usually middle wire in the plug put your multi meter on that wire and crank the engine over by hand to TDC mark turn the engine over one complete turn by hand the meter should blink 5v ish volts 12 times in one complete Revolution of the engine if it's missing one notch that could/will be a miss fire for a dead cyclinder it's a waste spark system and it fires in exhaust stroke that's why it's 12
The missing cover was removed by the guy who put in the autozone junk sensor
Just noticed when you got it started (congrats) that the temp gauge and the voltage gauge are reversed from the 84 to 96 Cherokees
I never noticed that!
@@ProjectDanH Yeah, I prefer the 84-96 Cherokee over the 97- 01. I like the interiors better. Different strokes.
@@projectbumblejeep4190 exactly! 💪
I would bring that CPS back to AZ
It's been 6 months and my brothers in FL now 😞
Can you not get to the cps in from the interior like you can a wj? I thought there was an access panel under the dash on right floor under carpet that allows you to just hit the bolts with a ratchet etc...
No, but a hole saw can make it happen! Lol
@@ProjectDanH Rough job for sure then!
There's an access hole unbolts from the inside by driver's side heater ports, I just watched a guy do it.
Great job👍🏻
Thank you! Cheers!
Dust shield on a manual XJ is one piece so dont drop a bolt in a 5 speed.
Holy crap! I never noticed! I'll be sure to add a two-piece shield into the beach deep build
@@ProjectDanH one would assume that's possible, figure converter bolts being the reason for a 2 piece
I got a no bus message and going crazy It takes off very slow then sore of moves. Not sure
Dang, you just answered my question right off - Do I need to buy the gold plated Mopar sensor (third time needs to be replaced in a matter of months)...I will hold my breath and try to squeeze some more dollars out of a diminished wallet for the official Jeep sensor. Love the tip about the wrench.
diminished wallet indeed 🤣🤣🤣
I feel for ya guy Today I just replaced mine an u know an I know. An I think everyone with a Xj should know What a pain n the @%#. It is to do I went from bottom. With 3. Ex. An 3\ 8 air gun. Mine did not have the cover an I to dropped bolt down to bottom of Tran An like u had to take cover off Lol. What a pain good job 👍. Keep em going 👍
Thanks man! The struggle is real!
i feel your pain on the cps sensor 😂 mine is lifted 3.5 and on 31s and a 5.2 that sensor was a bitch and it was a zj those suck too because the bolts don't want to go back home 😂 jeep my life right
Jeep my life!!! 🤣🤣🤣
Perhaps practice makes perfect but I just swapped out one and under 10 minutes. You're going to want to use about 3ft of extension and a swivel on a ratchet. Move the kickdown cable easy access. Again practice makes. First-time took me a couple hours lol
Great tip!
Any ideas what a p1391 code would be caused by?
P1391- The Engine Control Module (ECM) detected the actual Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) position disagreed with the expected CMP level.
Jeep has a slight misfire at idle but runs great overall. I ordered up an NTK CPS to swap in.
Not sure.. hope it does the trick!
1/4 wratchet and and 11mm and I can get one changed in a couple mins. 👍
nice! skills brother
Yeah, wasn't too bad. A couple long extensions from underneath, piece of cake. Though that wasn't my issue. Still won't start, scantool won't communicate, and can bus on dash. This Jeep is really pissing me off.
dang, is it an 00, 01have you tried the camshaft position sensor?
Great video! How did you get all those informations of maintanance?! (How to test the sensor for example)
Mostly from the FSM.. a little from the forums
Any tips on a high idle in park cleaned throttle body changed all sensors around throttle body changed pmc have the o2 sensors to change out
Vacuum Leak
i have a spare crank sensor under my back seat 😂
Nice video, looking to buy an XJ and trying to learn all i can before I do. How would you feel buying a 99 w/ 260K miles but rust free?
Go for it!
Good thing you were able to find that bolt. That job looks crazy! Too bad about the tool. It looks like you have a few of those Crank Position Sensors. By any chance do you know where to get an XJ electric fan pigtail?
Thanks 👍 maybe ebay .. definitely a junkyard!
@@ProjectDanH I found one that will work. Time to test my splicing skills.
На днях предстоит тоже самое))!
Lol. Hopefully!
Gotta 06, takes like 11 seconds to change
never give up ...
Amen
Crankshaft is bad only if my jeep not start . what other problem show if the crank is bad? I have the problem on my xj going out start the engine check engine light stay on drive for half hour stop the engine went I stared again check engine gone
Ok on my jeep if not start the first time the second time crank but the engine not start i have to put my foot to the gas pedal then start but sound like is flooded i change the injector the distributor sensor the same problem and the mecanic said was the heat sensor switch i spend 1000 dollas to fix the problem but thank you i own my jeep 22 years
Yes, intermittent starting could be a CPS.. also "No Bus" on the odometer.
Hey dad!
👋
'89 Pioneer (XJ) doesn't have nearly the room you have on yours. I can't even get one hand into place, much less hold the part in place to put the 7mm 1.0 bolt with 11mm head in. Wish they had used studs, as they'd kind of keep the part in place while one could at least put one nut on to pull the part into place, thus the second nut or even bolt could be installed. Think I'm going to use a bit of heat shrink on the wobble head to limit the angle once I have someone help me by holding the part in place above while I attempt to put the bolts in from below. Pretty sure on any make or model of vehicle there's always got to be one thing that's got to be a PITA to get to.
Studs would be a great idea.. I think im gonna cut a hole in the firewall to access these lol
@@ProjectDanH I'd been contemplating that as well. lol
@@ProjectDanH (Update) 2022 May 17th - Using a borescope I was able to spot the bolt that I had dropped in behind the flywheel. Once spotted I was basically able to use a "16 penny" nail to get it to slide towards the drivers side to which it came out rather easy. Earlier I had used my garden hose to spray water down into the cavity behind the flywheel which washed the bolt to the bottom and center behind the access plate. This time while inserting and getting the bolt started I decided to use some heavy thread tied onto the bolt with a pare of forceps clamped on the other end should I drop it again ("safety line"). Sorry I haven't been able to update this until today as I've been busy with life. xD lol
97 grand Cherokee zj doesnt have the camshaft sensor right ? just the map sensor
97 GC will have a distributor not a camshaft sensor. It does have a crank shaft sensor tho. Map sensor, TB sensor and IAC sensor will all be on the intake
My 1996 Jeep Cherokee 4.0l stalled on the freeway, no over heating issue. It turns, but will not hit.
I changed the injectors and fuel filter, and the fuel pump works. No spark. Should I change the camshaft or crankshaft sensor? Or, both?
both! camshaft sensor is easy!
Why not go for the crankshaft postiin sensor first thats the problem 80 percent
Of the time then camshaft position sensor and so on
1. wasn't my vehicle. wasn't familiar with the symptoms
2. process of elimination ruling out simple things first is easier
3. CZcams content.. info for your benefit
Hey Dan thanks for the videos have used a few to fix a few things already. I wanted to ask you I have a 97 zj 4.0 when it’s cold it starts right up. Once I get it going and turn it on again it struggles to crank sometimes I have to crank it twice. What should I be looking at to replace. I’ve done the fuel pump and o2 upstream sensor for separate issues. And sparks are still fairly new.
Now we all know not to buy a crankshaft pos sensor from Autozone or any aftermarket one period
Basically! LOL. In a pinch id take one... if it actually worked.
Hey D.
Do you have an extra blinker relay you can sell me?? Could really use one.
LMAO! I just used my last one on black beauty! All a sudden my blinkers went solid! 🤦♂️
@@ProjectDanH thanks anyways big dog. Definitely not getting one from the box stores.
Much appreciated looking forward to the next video..
Hey do you have a showcase Cinema next to your location?? I have employee passes for you and the family if you want 👍
@@michaellord3571 I appreciate that! I don't think so. Zip code here is 11980
i miss a diagnose, and change the undamage cps. i change the cps with the aftermarket, those crown type. and you know what happen next. the engine knocks real bad and shake, i immediately shut the car off. one word of advice like Dan H sez... use mopar on critical sensor or you'll hurt the engine
💯. It sucks We got to learn the hard way!