Never Miss A Day / Big Wave Kitesurfing Jaws / Jesse Richman
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- čas přidán 15. 06. 2023
- This past year, while tackling the infamous Jaws in every which way I could, I had a small epiphany; I realized that I was finally coming back to who I was as a kid. Perhaps it happened because every day, I’m either on the water, and then I subsequently go home to play with my kids, or I am in the water teaching my kids to swim, kite, and surf. As a result of this simple daily practice, I was awoken to the fundamental purpose of my existence: it is only to have fun.
Several months ago, while emptying an old storage unit, I came across some decades-old footage of myself as a middle schooler, deeply embroiled in my life as a budding professional kitesurfer. The only thing that mattered to me at that point was being the guy, out on the water, with the biggest smile on his face.
A little later, as I entered my teenage years, I found myself thriving under the pressure of competition, winning multiple world titles, a high which created a cycle of adrenaline addiction with seemingly high rewards. I became obsessed with being the most extreme athlete in this niche sport. The bigger the risk, the wilder the stunt, the more accolades. It built a fire within me that enabled me to flourish under the most stressful of circumstances. Now, I wanted to be the guy that won every single discipline of kitesurfing imaginable, the guy who would do any and every trick that the freestylers would, but way higher... and with a kiteloop! The guy who would go out at the gnarliest waves in the world even when the best surfers thought it was reckless. The guy who people looked at and thought, “Man, he’s crazy.”
This fiendish hunt for the most extreme, eventually and predictably, was accompanied by a litany of drawbacks. I was constantly pushing the limits of my sport and my body to the point of breaking. I suffered countless severe injuries and spent months out of the water recovering, only to heal and start all over again.
The dark hole that you descend into, as an athlete, when you can’t do what you love and what you’ve spent your whole life training for, is a genuine despair, that is familiar to most in this arena. This is an untenable existence filled with a lot of loneliness, second-guessing, and loss of purpose. The idea of taking a huge risk in exchange for one split second of thrill (a thrill that mostly comes from playing with the idea that you could live or die) and, as a result, jeopardizing the next 6-12 months of movement, of freedom, of joy…that wasn't getting me high anymore. Simply put, I was missing too many days on the water for one split second of thrill.
Recently, and, in part, due to my increasing responsibilities as a man and father, it dawned on me that I don’t have time for these shenanigans, and they are not worthwhile. They throw me off course.
I want to be on the water every day of my life; I want to never miss a day. In a sense, my desires have become more sophisticated and fine-tuned with time. Longevity is the name of the game. Just like I no longer have time to be hungover, I don’t have time to lay in bed injured. What is the point of doing all these crazy things if, at 60, I can’t even walk down my stairs to just sit in a beach chair because I am so cobbled together from injuries and traumas like a kite surfing Frankenstein that can barely move? To be in a semi-state of disrepair, permanently? One cannot live like that; I want to be shredding until the tender age of 104; once again, the guy on the water with the biggest smile on his face. All I have time for these days is waking up feeling incredible, being a ninja at life, and tip-toeing on the tightrope of balancing everything perfectly. There is so much more thrill and confidence and titillating science to mastering these water disciplines in a thoughtful and calculated manner than in a reckless and turbulent one. The feeling that I am mastering myself and the elements that I live for like a monk and a warrior by incorporating risk assessment, meditation, flow, and intuition is the most gratifying approach to life that I have indulged in thus far. Doing everything mindfully and calmly so that the beast within never has to be tamed but can be channeled forever and so that I never miss a day.
@North_Kiteboarding @TeamONeill
Filmers:
Slater Neborsky / Soul Creations Hawaii
Quincy Dein / Makana Creative
Jackson McMuldren / Nahoia Kai Productions
Marc Chambers
Wes Walker
Edited by Orion Owens
Additional footage:
Elliot Leboe / ACL Cinema
KPWT
Susi Mai
Pablo Garcia
Forrest Dein
And finally, a special Thank you to my fiancée Juliette & our wonderful kids Lou & Ride. Not only do you put up with my wildness but you support me every step of the way.
www.JesseRichman.com - Sport
charging Jaws on a kite like a wild man, that takes guts. Still delivering after all those years. Way.
You said it. You want to go home to your family and some injuries are hard to come back from. You’re a great dad! Have urself a wonderful Father’s Day
Thank you so much! A good session feels amazing, but coming home to my family after a good session is just the best. And at this point, I can see that there are so many warning signs before most injuries, and having the willpower to listen to those signs is challenging but essential. Thanks for chiming in 🤙🤙🤙
Love that you being more cautious and calculated is absolutely charging at Jaws haha. In all seriousness, this message resonates big time. I had a similar journey and moved away from twin tipping and moved towards wave kiting, kite foiling, winging, etc. for the sake of longevity and listening to my body. Wishing you many more years of finding the balance and keeping the stoke alive!
The best part of video i have ever seen the last few years. Thank you.
Great vid and also interesting conversations on the kitesurfing 365 podcast about risktaking
Charger!!! Yes! Thankyou! Inspiring
Your my biggest inspiration when it comes to kiteing and life in general 🤟
Wow, what an incredible video! The music, the cinematography, and Jesse's amazing talent - just wow. Congratulations to the whole team.
Well said 🤙
Epic, still feeling your stoke as always bro 🤘
Jesse, even more impressive and incredible than your kiting is your acquired wisdom.❤
I am very sympathetic to this guy. He is a real hard worker! Respect for his achievements and the way he reaches them! Go Jessie! Don't stop!
thanks so much. You are such an inspiration 👍👍👍👍 have a great 2024!!
YEAH, that's what I call inspirational !
Hey that's how I try to Live.... Nice Have fun!
Cruser, you are so inspiring in so many ways. I love knowing that whenever the conditions are firing, you will be there, killing it, with a smile on your face. Keep it up buddy!
Brilliant and inspiring! First class video and an abundance of natural and outstanding talent and sheer dedication shows! The best….
Awesome video. More CZcams content please!
Awesome Video!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks so much for sharing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Awesome video dude! As a 46 year old kiter, my main objective is to try to progress without injury and having fun, injuries are just not worth it. Still working on the courage to pull that kiteloop though ;)
Yeah Jesse!
Congrats Jesse the video is awesome ! You're one of the best of our sport 🤙🏻
Ended to quickly! That was amazing! more mini docs please
Bravo! Beautiful story, and epic shots 🤯👏🏼🤙🏼
Great inspiration! Keep it going and never miss a day 😀
gimme more !!! thanks Jesse
So sick! Really well done.
Very inspiring!!!! more fun please
More fun together please! Can’t wait to shred a wing session with you. 🤘🤘🤘
you know a wave is big when you have to switch to 4k mode just to see if you are ejecting at 1:23
Awesome Jesse you are an Inspiration to all us water people ❤🤙
Your jaws content and riding is always next level!! Sweet edit! Looked fun!
Thanks so much! When I get my Jaws Yatch and need a captian, you will be hearing from me. :p
You da man Jesse! KEEP IT UP MAN. So inspiring!
Sick riding! So much power no matter what the discipline. Really cool video.
Thank you so much!
such a legend!
🙏🤘
Getting old my friend ;-) But no worries, the good thing about age is that you can still rip like you do, but you pick what you WANT to do, not what you HAVE to do ! No need to follow trends, you enjoy and set your own style! Keep rocking and enjoy our beloved sport! Cheers Toby
You know better than anyone that following your heart and embracing your passion/ your own style is the most satisfying path you can take. Thank for the kind words buddy!
@@Jesse.Richman it is ;-)
I freaking love you bro!!!! Such an epic clip!!!! 😝😝😝
🐐
Nice family! Good job ! 🤙
Thank you! 🙏
G_O_A_T !!!
🙏🤘
lol how many big air kiters are also big wave surfers?! love it bro good stuff. Role model!
👍
Wooow😮🎉
Epic video, handle passes on a surfboard 😂
So many more passes to nail on a surfboard. 🙏🤘
you're an animal in a good way!
What’s the second half of the video song name? Amazing vid
What is your favourite kite for big surf?