Please don’t listen to people telling you to turn your bass boost up, turn it all the way down and never use it, it forces your subs to amplify the bass and can cook your coils
@@CalebAintloud1 the ones saying turn up the bass boost are the ones that get skar sdr’s 12s, put them on 2k then blow them and bash skar for their lack of knowledge, I’m not a fan of skar but there definitely not as bad as people make them out to be
@@johnjack8195 exactly. I had a buddy with 2 evl 15s in his 1500 and it slammed. Could hear it inside of my house before he’d even pull in the driveway.
Truth is most companies out there make decent equipment. I’ve been playing with car audio since the late 90s and have used most brands out there. I’ve seen all of them fail with bad installation/ tuning. Most guys that have problems stem from either mismatched sub / amp combo (ohms) or don’t know what they are doing. Skar is great bang for your buck equipment. Back in my early days we payed 1.00 per watt for amps, so we have came a long way.
For a bass knob idea, i put mine in the little pocket in the glove box. Took the glove box out, tapped it in. Nice clean hidden look and very easy to run to the head unit.
I've always liked ported boxes myself sealed boxes doesn't allow the speakers to hit all the lows and highs like it should but they sound amazing man for everyday driving that setup is all you need 👌
Hell yea bro I had a sealed switched to ported was a day and night difference and that’s where I got addicted to audio went from 12” db drive 600 rms then to 10” 800 rms deaf bonce till I decided to go 10” sa v2 sundown 1k rms
@@chadmilligan342i was about to say the same, ive had some sealed boxes hit so low that my ears would tickle non stop, they just didn’t have right equipment tuned properly
You can just hear the layers and efforts that were put into mixing and mastering the tracks. Such perfect combination and mixing is rare!🙌🏻🔥 only legends like Nikhil can do it!♥️♥
If you switch boxes I would highly suggest getting a ported box. I made the switch from sealed to ported without changing anything else in my setup and it was a world of difference. It went from the subs not being super noticeable to shaking my rearview mirror down.
For shallow mount subs it really doesnt do anything to have it ported they dont move as much as bigger subs and so they sound better with a sealed box for the big bass
You need more airspace for a ported enclosure plus the difference is all a matter of preference. Ported your gonna get more volume but it’s gonna be less accurate. With sealed you get more tight accurate bass but less volume
The box is definitely one of the biggest factors. I've had dual comp 10's in a big custom (ported) box in a hatchback and that system hit harder than most dual 12 setups. Downside was that it was stolen two different times in the middle of the night because everyone in town could hear that sh*t and eventually someone followed me home
Make sure that you match your subwoofer frequencies from the head unit to the amp. And adjust the speaker levels in the radios settings and get it all in a close ballpark to where you like it. Some songs will be different and have lower quality audio so you can do the rest of the tuning twitch your bass knob
I have an 03 sierra Ext cab. 2 10s under the back seat on 1200 watt amp. And a head unit with factory bose still. It sounds so clear and so good. Plenty of bass and more if I want it on demand. Also have a single 12 on 800 watts in my 14 silverado. Both great options for good bass quality and amazing clear sound
I have this same set up in my 05 crew cab Silverado just with a svk series amp and I love it I would recommend porting the box it’s cheap and easy and improves the sound a ton
My 05 Silverado had two kicker 8’s with dual amps. One feeding the subs and one feeding the speakers and man that truck hit hard. Thing I like about 8’s more than 10’s is that 8’s pack a more crisp, powerful and snappy punch since they are smaller.
Keep fidgeting with it. When I did mine it took forever to get it correct. When you finally get it, it’s all worth it. Skar has been amazing the past year and they take a beating. I have mine upfiring and they can handle people sitting on them and all. Skar is amazing. I don’t care what anyone says
Love the videos man. I watch all your stuff. I do car audio for a living. I can tell you right now Skar gets trashed talked a lot but in all reality they make a decent product for a decent price. Don’t get me wrong there’s definitely better out there but Skar is budget friendly for the most part. Good job on the install, bud. For real. Looks clean. However you need you a nice volt meter so you can see where your voltage is at. I almost bet your battery is screaming for help from a secondary battery. Other than that looks good man 👍 oh and my personal preference is ported boxes. You can tune to exactly what frequency you want to hit at with a custom ported box built to spec of those subs.
They have some speaker grills you can buy to put over the speakers themselves, but yours looked to be rubbing pretty hard. If you have an audio shop near by run it by and see if you can have them explain amp tuning to you. Tuning that amp will get those subs sounding great. I run the same setup. Also, you could possibly get some interference from running your power and remote wires together.
Or you can just look up ohms law online and do the mathematical equation to figure out exactly how to tune your amp with a multimeter. I do audio for a living and I refuse to let any shop where I live touch anything of mine 😂
Love the setup im going all skar in my 96, I think there better than all the name brands out there. As for the box I would go with there under the seat box and make sure your running 12 gauge OFC wire and that will make a world of difference and take your stereo to a trusted shop and have them tune it properly if your unsure cuz it can be scary not knowing what settings do what and stuff like that. Keep up the amazing work
🤣😂 better than all the "name brands out there" like how you dissed skar in your comment without knowing you did cause you insinuated skar isnt a name brand lol which it isnt it's a Chinese knock off lol skarbage sucks bud do some research you sound like an idiot
Not bad, I would recommend the box under the seat, with the same color fabric as the interior. With aftermarket stereos you don’t need a remote bass knob because the stereo has isolated sub control. With sub amps you dont need to run rca’s on the opposite side of the power wire because the frequency is low. One other thing I recommend is having a more powerful amp than sub rms power, and you can keep it turned down. If you listen to all kinds of music, I recommend a ported box, you can get better bass response
I worked at a audio installer for 3 years. The best sounding way to get the tweaters to stop buzzing is to of course replace them with new ones and buy an amp for your speakers. They will sound and perform much better and it will take the bass out of the door speakers so you can turn it up louder without overpowering the speakers. You have subs so there is no reason to have bass come through your door speakers. As for the sub adjust Gain changes the level of distortion in the subs. And LPF is you Low Pass Filter it will filter out frequencies you don’t want going through the sub. Low Pass filter will prevent frequencies that should go through your speakers from going through the Sub, and a High Pass Filter will do the opposite. That’s another good reason to get an amp for the speakers so you can have the ability to run a HPF.
Just putting skar Spx-65c in front doors of 06 Silverado and no tweeter in back door with a small amp with no sub. Will 4 gauge cca power wire be gone for amp or is ofc a must have? Thanks
Subs settings: I know that Pioneer radio has decent crossover settings. On the radio, you want the cross over settings the same as at the amp or just a tad over/under. The radio is digital, so it will be more precise. The amp settings will be more of a secondary filter if that makes sense. On amp: High pass/subsonic- all the way down, or around 30hz to be safe. LPF- 80hz Bass boost- off, never touch it Gain- that amp should have a clip light on the knob. Turn radio up 75-85%, play 40hz test tone with subs disconnected from amp. Turn bass knob all the way up, then turn gain on amp up slowly until the clip light starts to flash. Back off slowly until the clip light goes away. If the clip light never flashes, turn up the sub level on the radio, and try again. The amp might still have a bit more potential. You don't want it to clip, but you need to see it while setting the gain just so you know when to back off a bit.
If you're looking for more lows I would recommend a ported box sealed box's are great too but they're mostly good for like rock country etc they don't thrive with low notes
Love skar audio also a big fan of deaf bounce sundown and massive audio it sounds wonderful now chomper has a full killer build just do a spacker on the seat I personally dont like under seat boxes
You may not see or read this comment but don’t play them with the seat up if it’s touching or you will end up blowing them and just a fyi the gain isn’t a volume knob you need to match the gain to your head unit output, but it sounds awesome man, I’m running 2 sundown xv2 18s in a cpillar wall in my 07 Tahoe
I have 4 6inch subs under the rear seat that has great sound. I put grills on mine to protect from my kids feet. I live close to you if you want help with tuning. Keep up the good work
I would definitely recommend using 12 gauge speaker wire from your box to your amp, makes a big difference. I have a single EV oh 12 in my truck and had the 16 gauge wire hooked up to it was not very impressed, Swapped over to 12 gauge wire it made a huge difference
@@customresultsdetailing3335 yes I do I have 2 sundown x18s in a cpillar wall in my Tahoe I’ve been building systems for 7 years now, the last comp I went to I brought home 2 1st place trophies so I think I know what I’m talking about but I’m not gonna argue in the comments
@@CalebAintloud1 How is that first-hand experience, I actually have a RP 1200.1 hooked up to a single EVL 12. O and by the way just because you have 2 18s doesn’t make you an expert.
This is exactly what I need to order. I recently bought a sundown sa 12v2 for only 200$ and bought an amp wiring kit but the speaker wire is 16 gauge. It hits good but I feel that running 12 gauge can send more power to the sub.
Makes me miss the system days. Hahaha, tech 9 absolute power and Mack 10 bang or ball albums used to be block busters setting people car alarms off rattling folks pictures.
got the same system in my single cab, dont be afraid to beat em!!! i have been abusing them for over a year now, can get them to float recipets sometimes.
i like the setup , and how you actually have a backseat 😭 i have two evl 12s in a big ol ported box that takes up almost my entire backseat , i can only fit 2 passengers in my crewcab😭
Its crazy I have almost everything you there. Same truck, subs and my box is ported. I ran into the same issue about 6 months ago with the seat hitting the subs.
I just want to give some advice, you should never and I repeat never, put a power wire through a grommet that way, Over the course of time the insulation will rub on the metal edge and it will cut through eventually shorting that wire to ground. In future installs you could just put your snake tool, whether its a wire or a screwdriver, through the middle hole of the grommet which will protect the outer insulation of the wire preventing chaffing and shorts. Other than that the install was a lot better than I have seen on some other YT channels.
If you want that same box go with the kenwood shallow mount they’re pretty good subs and for good quality sound you need a good radio make sure it’s a pioneer, alpine or kenwood
Hey man nice install and good job on cable management. I noticed on thing tho the speaker wire connected to the amp is bridged together in one positive and one negative. If I were I would separate them because you the mono block amp bridge is them together internally. I don’t know if your loosing power that way. But I do know that there is no need to bridge that’s a thing of the past now. It does sound good tho man 👍🏽 For your setting tho just watch a video on how to tune with a multimeter and you will be set because you don’t want to eyeball your gain. Your either giving it way to much power or not enough but with a multimeter you can get it spot on
Love Skar, except the SDR lol, had a single 12 and it didn’t last. I’ve had an SVR 12 on 800 watt amp and loved it and upgraded to a VXF 12 on a 1500 watt amp. All Skar amps too. 10 inch subs in a shallow box won’t get quite as low as your old CVR’s in your 06 F-150 and Cruze but they will get a little lower and louder after a couple weeks. I’d put the gain at no more than 60-65% in my personal opinion is where these amps seem to be happy with clean signal and no bass boost. If there is a subwoofer level setting in the head unit, turn that up and it will allow the subs to play louder at lower volumes. But don’t use a bass boost, it sends a clipped signal. As far as a box goes, look up 2006 Silverado/Sierra BBOX dual 10 underseat box. And make sure it’s the crew cab one cause the extended cab is different as you know. Found on Amazon for about $130
I have a $114 10" Rockville powered side fire ported subwoofer box I bought from Amazon for my truck and all I did was pull out the cotton they packed in the box and invert the sub for more box air space and it sounds pretty damn good even with the shitty amp it came with, word of advice to everyone who's new, key to a good sound or sq is 90% your box and the only reason why I know this because I've built boxes for several years just didn't feel like building one this time because I new I could make it sound good.
The super deep bass is only if you have a larger box. Sallow mount boxes won’t give you the super low bass even if your subs are tuned correctly it’s just kinda how it works unfortunately. Super clean install
I just got my svr subs in 2 days ago and bro yes leave your back seats down let those coils take a week to break in, and keep them kind of quiet for about a week. You don’t wanna mess those coils up. Mine have gotten way better since I first put them in, it’s like fine wine😂
You did a great job with the install 💪 But I'm pretty sure that box is way too small for those subs. I would experiment with taking out one sub , and covering the hole with a piece of wood , then see how it sounds 💪😇🙏💖
I'd highly recommend going to a local stereo store and have someone tune your amp properly. You can do it with a volt meter and some math. But, tuning will make a huge difference. Also, make sure your woofer polarity is correct.
I got a full Skar Audio system in my 2012 Silverado and I love it. 2 vd-12s on the SKv2 1500 watt amp in a down firing box and 4 TX65 speakers on the RP-75.4AB amp all powered by a Sony XAV-AX6000 head unit. Perfect system if your on a budget😂😂
how loud are the tx65’s on the amp? I have the same speakers and was thinking about putting them on an amp? Do you have the under the seat box for the subs as well?
@@barrettsimpson744 they’re pretty loud and they sound pretty good but I’m definitely going to upgrade to the FSX65 and get new tweeters and I do have the sealed underseat box
I am putting together a new system now. I had 3 p3 8's in a ported box in my 05 Crewcab with a zx1500.1 on them and they slammed. In my doors I have 4 Memphis 5.25's in the rear and 2 sets of Boston Acoustic 6.5 comps. I am not sure of the sub setup yet. I am thinking 4 Memphis Mojo mini 6.5's or 2 L7 8's, undecided. My amps are gonna be 1 zx2500.1 almost forgot my highs amp is 2 zr460's. But imo I would change your box to a ported behind the seat box. The under seat box doesn't deliver such a nice bass as the behind the seat box. Also check your crossovers for your tweeters make sure wires from truck an your wires are all the same signal (so they are playing backwards, which could be causing distortion). I put my bass knobwhere your 4x4 controls are since mine is 2wd and has the pocket.
I would recommend a ported box for a truck and I would upgrade your power and ground wire to 0 gauge Ofc wire and upgrade speakers wires to ofc. But overall great starter build
Ream out mounting bracket holes scoot seat forward. Then add wood shelving top , jus enuff to keep seat tight and locked in place. After all fixed paint or carpet wood. Easy diy fix.🎉 sure local stereo shop could solve issue pretty easy too thou. While box out again use herculiner inside to keep box tight for years to come.
Firstly your “bass” knob is actually for external gain changes on the fly so you don’t have to get out of vehicle everytime you want to turn the gain up on your amplifier I’ve always turned gain all the way on my amplifiers and used the knob for changes never had problem yet. And also they have premade front firing boxes for under the seat ported and sealed
I had the same problem with the behind the seat enclosure wit the VD-10 subs I screwed a strip of wood on the top of the sun box to lean the seats up a bit. Works great doesn’t rub anymore but the seats are like straight up.
So we just run power wires outside the factory grommets now? Sharp sheet metal and now the grommet isnt doing anything for water or moisture. Great job .
If you have static On tweeters, you can use a ground loop for the rca cables or ground those cables. It could be that or you have your vocals turned up too high. As for the bass, gain does not equal volume, it shouldn’t be turned past 3/4. I find the sweet spot around between 1/2 and 3/4 for gain. Also find out where clipping is for your stereo, that way you can fine tune it to your deck. Every deck is different and will have to be tuned. Look up how to tune stereo with test tone, it should give you a good idea on how to tune your setup, If you don’t have the proper tuning equipment.
Stock radio, big 3 upgrade, DSP, fused distribution block power and ground, sound deadening, Blaupunkt bass processor, high quality Audio playback device with good quality audio tracks, 800rms 8s sound Hella good.
This is what i would always do when tuning my stereo -find a song your familiar with how the notes should sound - have the gain on your amp turned down and the eq on your radio all to zeros - tune your interior speakers first. i like to crank it to the max area that i know the speakers wont start distorting adjusting the gains and volume till it can achieve the max level if you really want it loud. - once the inside is good then do the subs. keep your bass eq at 0. don't really need to adjust that as it can all be controlled from the amp. plus you have the boost knob for certain songs that just need a little more bass. can change it on the fly but don't want to have to be changing things on the amp. -turn your radio back up to the max you like to listen to and bring the gain up listening to the notes and detect any distortion if you go too high. you also have to keep in mind what your amp is rated for and your subs. if your amp is more powerful than subs you don't want to set the gain to high as it can blow them. gain is just the sensitivity of the amp to your subs
I had the same problem with my 06 cateye. I was going to use the shallow mount DD subs but they hit the back of the seat so I went with the JL Audio shallow mount subs. They are designed just for this application. They fit and they hit. If you need pics of my set up just let me know. Good luck
Probably needs a bigger sealed box. You could go ported, but idk how much more space you'd need for a proper ported box for those subs. You will be happier in a sealed box built to spec than an undersized ported box. Also, polyfill goes a long way in a sealed box. Just looks into air space requirements for your subs and see if you've got the space for a ported box for both subs, otherwise I'd just make a bigger sealed box as it will bring down the resonant frequency and allow them to play louder at lower frequencies. If that wiring kit is CCA, there's a high chance your positive lead might corrode over time under your engine. It's also probably restricting current flow to some extent compared to ofc (knukonceptz has a pretty cheap, higher quality ofc wiring kit I'd have recommended over the Skar one) Go with thicker speaker wire for your subs (12 AWG), that definitely restricts power flow and adds unnecessary resistance to your system
Skar isn’t a bad company I had two of there sdr 15s and over powered them constantly and they held up amazingly but I ended up switching to sundown just for something bigger for the lows and i had a x series v.2 15 and it would slam but I sold it all and now have a single cab f-350 and now your going to make me buy subs for behind my seat
I would recommend contacting Dean @ 5-star stereos in Florida. He also has a channel on utube with the same name, 5-star stereos. As for the power for the amp. I would suggest 100% copper and either 4 or 8 gauge wire.
If you read my comment I’d like to kn what do you do for a living besides CZcams or if you do jst tht now what did you do before because you hv so much land and it’s very nice. You should do a tour of your property and how did you but it for with how much acres if you share if not no problem and watching you work on you truck makes me want that same year and body style even more just clean appreciate the content and how much do you think these trucks would and can go for right now
A lot of 10” subs can’t hit low frequencies likes 12” subs can. I have my amp set at 80 hertz and that is what most amps do best at 80 instead of 100. Make sure that you set your crossover correctly on you radio to match up with you subs and amp. If you have your amp setup at 100 hertz then you need your radio crossover set at 100 hertz also. You have to tune your radio and amp together to get the correct sound and output or you can damage your subs. I have a down firing box in my Silverado with 1, 10” JL audio sub and it sounds amazing. Most factory systems can’t compete with aftermarket systems, but in some cars, factory do sound good, but in Chevy Silverado trucks, aftermarket is the way to go hands down and if you have Bose, do yourself a favor and just bypass the Bose system when installing an aftermarket system, you will be glad that you did!!! I have a 2, 12” JL audio subs in my s10, which I love but now I’m older, I love bass, but not too much where you can hear me for a mile like my s10. So that’s why I only have 1, 10” sub in my Silverado. I’m just gonna please myself, not anyone else, lol. I do love my thump, but not as much as I use too! 😊
Once you break the subs in. Turn the gain and LPf up on the Amp then tune with the bass knob.... and then turn the bass down on your radio. That should make your door speakers more clear.
Use a multimeter on your amp and set the gain that way. The math is available online, but you are basically basing it off the output voltage to determine how much wattage your amp is out puting. You obviously want to have an output wattage under what the RMS rating of the sub woofers and the RMS rating of the amp. If you output more than what the amp can do, you will see the voltage plateau, but at that point your are clipping and sending a flattened signal to the speakers. And obviously if you output more than the speaker rating the coils will burn up and they will "blow". So set the gain on the conservative side. Also I suggest amping the door speakers and tweeters too. The head unit outputs about 13 watts and clips at about 90% volume.
Please don’t listen to people telling you to turn your bass boost up, turn it all the way down and never use it, it forces your subs to amplify the bass and can cook your coils
Finally someone in the comments with some common sense
@@CalebAintloud1 the ones saying turn up the bass boost are the ones that get skar sdr’s 12s, put them on 2k then blow them and bash skar for their lack of knowledge, I’m not a fan of skar but there definitely not as bad as people make them out to be
Yep just use gain, LPF and HPF
If you use bass boost set it lal the way up and use your gain to control it
Thansk for the info I’m new to this so it’s helpful to know what not to do
A lot of people talk bad about Skar. They aren’t a bad company they are actually quite reputable. I had a full system and it was loud and clear.
CT sounds are also pretty good to that’s what I went with when i changed up my subs
Their competition subs are fire 🔥
All low wattage subs are exactly what they are…low wattage
@@johnjack8195 exactly. I had a buddy with 2 evl 15s in his 1500 and it slammed. Could hear it inside of my house before he’d even pull in the driveway.
CT Sounds is way better. I've seen alot of quality problems with Skar.
Truth is most companies out there make decent equipment. I’ve been playing with car audio since the late 90s and have used most brands out there. I’ve seen all of them fail with bad installation/ tuning. Most guys that have problems stem from either mismatched sub / amp combo (ohms) or don’t know what they are doing. Skar is great bang for your buck equipment. Back in my early days we payed 1.00 per watt for amps, so we have came a long way.
For a bass knob idea, i put mine in the little pocket in the glove box. Took the glove box out, tapped it in. Nice clean hidden look and very easy to run to the head unit.
Awesome install! The sound quality is top-notch and the system looks great too. Great job!
Chomper is so hard but simple at the same time. Very nice truck
I've always liked ported boxes myself sealed boxes doesn't allow the speakers to hit all the lows and highs like it should but they sound amazing man for everyday driving that setup is all you need 👌
Hell yea bro I had a sealed switched to ported was a day and night difference and that’s where I got addicted to audio went from 12” db drive 600 rms then to 10” 800 rms deaf bonce till I decided to go 10” sa v2 sundown 1k rms
Sealed boxes actually do get real low they just are not near as loud ported is so much louder.
Seal boxes hits better in my opinion… not as loud as ported but you need more power & once you tune ur box!!! 🥊 puncher bass
He can just add a pvc port tuned to like 32
@@chadmilligan342i was about to say the same, ive had some sealed boxes hit so low that my ears would tickle non stop, they just didn’t have right equipment tuned properly
You can just hear the layers and efforts that were put into mixing and mastering the tracks. Such perfect combination and mixing is rare!🙌🏻🔥 only legends like Nikhil can do it!♥️♥
Sweet!!! I just built my system the past summer, 5000watts total, 2500 watt skar evls! In a 6cubic feet box!!!
I had 3 of these trucks. Even driving a Raptor I miss them. Just classics. Nice stereo. Beautiful truck.
I've been debating on buying that style box,glad you posted this 🤘
If you switch boxes I would highly suggest getting a ported box. I made the switch from sealed to ported without changing anything else in my setup and it was a world of difference. It went from the subs not being super noticeable to shaking my rearview mirror down.
Mine shakes my rear view mirror without being ported same amp and subs
For shallow mount subs it really doesnt do anything to have it ported they dont move as much as bigger subs and so they sound better with a sealed box for the big bass
You need more airspace for a ported enclosure plus the difference is all a matter of preference. Ported your gonna get more volume but it’s gonna be less accurate. With sealed you get more tight accurate bass but less volume
Doesn't sealed have deep bass
The box is definitely one of the biggest factors. I've had dual comp 10's in a big custom (ported) box in a hatchback and that system hit harder than most dual 12 setups. Downside was that it was stolen two different times in the middle of the night because everyone in town could hear that sh*t and eventually someone followed me home
Make sure that you match your subwoofer frequencies from the head unit to the amp. And adjust the speaker levels in the radios settings and get it all in a close ballpark to where you like it. Some songs will be different and have lower quality audio so you can do the rest of the tuning twitch your bass knob
Just so you know, the amp outputs are wired together internally so you can use all 4 terminals on that amp if you wanted to
Been wanting a simple setup in my 22 f250. You sir just made a sale for skar!
I love all the content keep up all the work with the trucks
Skar is great. I have had a skar setup in my last two vehicles. I’m now running 4 sdr 8s and a 1500 watt amp.
I was thinking of going with these guys a while back and finally i can see what it’s like
I have an 03 sierra Ext cab. 2 10s under the back seat on 1200 watt amp. And a head unit with factory bose still. It sounds so clear and so good. Plenty of bass and more if I want it on demand. Also have a single 12 on 800 watts in my 14 silverado. Both great options for good bass quality and amazing clear sound
I have this same set up in my 05 crew cab Silverado just with a svk series amp and I love it I would recommend porting the box it’s cheap and easy and improves the sound a ton
You remove the carpet?
I’ve used skar for years, great brand! DD-1 set gains
Great video I have the same truck just chevy and with black interior and i find these videos are very helpful!
My 05 Silverado had two kicker 8’s with dual amps. One feeding the subs and one feeding the speakers and man that truck hit hard. Thing I like about 8’s more than 10’s is that 8’s pack a more crisp, powerful and snappy punch since they are smaller.
2 L7 8's give you more cone area than 1 10. I think the L7 8's are equal to some 10's as far as cone area is concerned.
Keep fidgeting with it. When I did mine it took forever to get it correct. When you finally get it, it’s all worth it. Skar has been amazing the past year and they take a beating. I have mine upfiring and they can handle people sitting on them and all. Skar is amazing. I don’t care what anyone says
Love the videos man. I watch all your stuff. I do car audio for a living. I can tell you right now Skar gets trashed talked a lot but in all reality they make a decent product for a decent price. Don’t get me wrong there’s definitely better out there but Skar is budget friendly for the most part. Good job on the install, bud. For real. Looks clean. However you need you a nice volt meter so you can see where your voltage is at. I almost bet your battery is screaming for help from a secondary battery. Other than that looks good man 👍 oh and my personal preference is ported boxes. You can tune to exactly what frequency you want to hit at with a custom ported box built to spec of those subs.
Would love to see some more audio content love the vids.
They have some speaker grills you can buy to put over the speakers themselves, but yours looked to be rubbing pretty hard. If you have an audio shop near by run it by and see if you can have them explain amp tuning to you. Tuning that amp will get those subs sounding great. I run the same setup. Also, you could possibly get some interference from running your power and remote wires together.
Or you can just look up ohms law online and do the mathematical equation to figure out exactly how to tune your amp with a multimeter. I do audio for a living and I refuse to let any shop where I live touch anything of mine 😂
Hmm, I always thought power and remote on one side and speaker wire on the other.
@@derfskittlers6125the remote wire carrys such a low amount of power it can be ran with the rca's
Beautiful truck 🔥
Love the setup im going all skar in my 96, I think there better than all the name brands out there. As for the box I would go with there under the seat box and make sure your running 12 gauge OFC wire and that will make a world of difference and take your stereo to a trusted shop and have them tune it properly if your unsure cuz it can be scary not knowing what settings do what and stuff like that. Keep up the amazing work
🤣😂 better than all the "name brands out there" like how you dissed skar in your comment without knowing you did cause you insinuated skar isnt a name brand lol which it isnt it's a Chinese knock off lol skarbage sucks bud do some research you sound like an idiot
Man there isnt anything you havent done already once I start looking into it lol! Definitely going to look into the Skar stuff.
Not bad, I would recommend the box under the seat, with the same color fabric as the interior. With aftermarket stereos you don’t need a remote bass knob because the stereo has isolated sub control. With sub amps you dont need to run rca’s on the opposite side of the power wire because the frequency is low. One other thing I recommend is having a more powerful amp than sub rms power, and you can keep it turned down. If you listen to all kinds of music, I recommend a ported box, you can get better bass response
I’m loving this truck❤️
Me and my dad built our own box with 2 12s in bro and it sounds great you’re sounds goood too yo nice work
I worked at a audio installer for 3 years. The best sounding way to get the tweaters to stop buzzing is to of course replace them with new ones and buy an amp for your speakers. They will sound and perform much better and it will take the bass out of the door speakers so you can turn it up louder without overpowering the speakers. You have subs so there is no reason to have bass come through your door speakers. As for the sub adjust Gain changes the level of distortion in the subs. And LPF is you Low Pass Filter it will filter out frequencies you don’t want going through the sub. Low Pass filter will prevent frequencies that should go through your speakers from going through the Sub, and a High Pass Filter will do the opposite. That’s another good reason to get an amp for the speakers so you can have the ability to run a HPF.
Just putting skar Spx-65c in front doors of 06 Silverado and no tweeter in back door with a small amp with no sub.
Will 4 gauge cca power wire be gone for amp or is ofc a must have? Thanks
Subs settings:
I know that Pioneer radio has decent crossover settings. On the radio, you want the cross over settings the same as at the amp or just a tad over/under. The radio is digital, so it will be more precise. The amp settings will be more of a secondary filter if that makes sense.
On amp:
High pass/subsonic- all the way down, or around 30hz to be safe.
LPF- 80hz
Bass boost- off, never touch it
Gain- that amp should have a clip light on the knob. Turn radio up 75-85%, play 40hz test tone with subs disconnected from amp. Turn bass knob all the way up, then turn gain on amp up slowly until the clip light starts to flash. Back off slowly until the clip light goes away.
If the clip light never flashes, turn up the sub level on the radio, and try again. The amp might still have a bit more potential. You don't want it to clip, but you need to see it while setting the gain just so you know when to back off a bit.
If you're looking for more lows I would recommend a ported box sealed box's are great too but they're mostly good for like rock country etc they don't thrive with low notes
Love skar audio also a big fan of deaf bounce sundown and massive audio it sounds wonderful now chomper has a full killer build just do a spacker on the seat I personally dont like under seat boxes
You may not see or read this comment but don’t play them with the seat up if it’s touching or you will end up blowing them and just a fyi the gain isn’t a volume knob you need to match the gain to your head unit output, but it sounds awesome man, I’m running 2 sundown xv2 18s in a cpillar wall in my 07 Tahoe
Clean truck man 🔥
I have a truck like yours and I have a 10 inch powered rock for Fosgate sub in a ported box and it sounds really good
I have 4 6inch subs under the rear seat that has great sound. I put grills on mine to protect from my kids feet. I live close to you if you want help with tuning. Keep up the good work
really clean truck!!
Personally had this same setup it did ok , ended up doing rear captn chairs and doing a center console box for more air space much louder
I would definitely recommend using 12 gauge speaker wire from your box to your amp, makes a big difference. I have a single EV oh 12 in my truck and had the 16 gauge wire hooked up to it was not very impressed, Swapped over to 12 gauge wire it made a huge difference
Won’t make a difference on 1200w
@@CalebAintloud1 I have first-hand experience do you?
@@customresultsdetailing3335 yes I do I have 2 sundown x18s in a cpillar wall in my Tahoe I’ve been building systems for 7 years now, the last comp I went to I brought home 2 1st place trophies so I think I know what I’m talking about but I’m not gonna argue in the comments
@@CalebAintloud1 How is that first-hand experience, I actually have a RP 1200.1 hooked up to a single EVL 12. O and by the way just because you have 2 18s doesn’t make you an expert.
This is exactly what I need to order. I recently bought a sundown sa 12v2 for only 200$ and bought an amp wiring kit but the speaker wire is 16 gauge. It hits good but I feel that running 12 gauge can send more power to the sub.
This is why your the goat 😮💨‼️
Just. Started to add my 2-12s alpine type r. With 1600.d. Can’t wait to feel the Tahoe shake. 🤣.
Makes me miss the system days. Hahaha, tech 9 absolute power and Mack 10 bang or ball albums used to be block busters setting people car alarms off rattling folks pictures.
got the same system in my single cab, dont be afraid to beat em!!! i have been abusing them for over a year now, can get them to float recipets sometimes.
i like the setup , and how you actually have a backseat 😭 i have two evl 12s in a big ol ported box that takes up almost my entire backseat , i can only fit 2 passengers in my crewcab😭
GREAT install video. Bet it would sound great bumpin $uicideboy$
i’ve got the vd-12 in my single cab and they sound really good
I got a under the seat box in my 03 sierra with 2 shallow JL and about a 1 inch spacers on the corners of the box to get a little more air moving
Dang good look’n truck!
Definitely find a ported/vented enclosure. The lows will be so much better.
I got a 2006 sierra 1500 crew cab, I put a skar sdr 18 with the skar rp.2000 sounds amazing just need to upgrade my doors speakers with mid bass ones
I have skar subs and started with a skar amp and had issues, swapped to a Rockford 500 and it hits harder and sounds cleaner than my skar 1000
Its crazy I have almost everything you there. Same truck, subs and my box is ported. I ran into the same issue about 6 months ago with the seat hitting the subs.
Skar is hard to beat for the price! Just put two 10s in my 1500 recently and wish I would’ve done it sooner
Are they still holding up good, and do they have good sound quality?
I just want to give some advice, you should never and I repeat never, put a power wire through a grommet that way, Over the course of time the insulation will rub on the metal edge and it will cut through eventually shorting that wire to ground. In future installs you could just put your snake tool, whether its a wire or a screwdriver, through the middle hole of the grommet which will protect the outer insulation of the wire preventing chaffing and shorts. Other than that the install was a lot better than I have seen on some other YT channels.
If you want that same box go with the kenwood shallow mount they’re pretty good subs and for good quality sound you need a good radio make sure it’s a pioneer, alpine or kenwood
Hey man nice install and good job on cable management. I noticed on thing tho the speaker wire connected to the amp is bridged together in one positive and one negative. If I were I would separate them because you the mono block amp bridge is them together internally. I don’t know if your loosing power that way. But I do know that there is no need to bridge that’s a thing of the past now. It does sound good tho man 👍🏽
For your setting tho just watch a video on how to tune with a multimeter and you will be set because you don’t want to eyeball your gain. Your either giving it way to much power or not enough but with a multimeter you can get it spot on
After I got my 12s broken in I turned the LPF down and the gain up to get the sound you're looking for. I had to change settings on my head unit too.
Love Skar, except the SDR lol, had a single 12 and it didn’t last. I’ve had an SVR 12 on 800 watt amp and loved it and upgraded to a VXF 12 on a 1500 watt amp. All Skar amps too. 10 inch subs in a shallow box won’t get quite as low as your old CVR’s in your 06 F-150 and Cruze but they will get a little lower and louder after a couple weeks. I’d put the gain at no more than 60-65% in my personal opinion is where these amps seem to be happy with clean signal and no bass boost. If there is a subwoofer level setting in the head unit, turn that up and it will allow the subs to play louder at lower volumes. But don’t use a bass boost, it sends a clipped signal. As far as a box goes, look up 2006 Silverado/Sierra BBOX dual 10 underseat box. And make sure it’s the crew cab one cause the extended cab is different as you know. Found on Amazon for about $130
I have a $114 10" Rockville powered side fire ported subwoofer box I bought from Amazon for my truck and all I did was pull out the cotton they packed in the box and invert the sub for more box air space and it sounds pretty damn good even with the shitty amp it came with, word of advice to everyone who's new, key to a good sound or sq is 90% your box and the only reason why I know this because I've built boxes for several years just didn't feel like building one this time because I new I could make it sound good.
The super deep bass is only if you have a larger box. Sallow mount boxes won’t give you the super low bass even if your subs are tuned correctly it’s just kinda how it works unfortunately. Super clean install
nice I got same amp and got 2 10 inch skars in my 1500
I just got my svr subs in 2 days ago and bro yes leave your back seats down let those coils take a week to break in, and keep them kind of quiet for about a week. You don’t wanna mess those coils up. Mine have gotten way better since I first put them in, it’s like fine wine😂
You did a great job with the install 💪
But I'm pretty sure that box is way too small for those subs. I would experiment with taking out one sub , and covering the hole with a piece of wood , then see how it sounds 💪😇🙏💖
I'd highly recommend going to a local stereo store and have someone tune your amp properly. You can do it with a volt meter and some math. But, tuning will make a huge difference. Also, make sure your woofer polarity is correct.
I got a full Skar Audio system in my 2012 Silverado and I love it. 2 vd-12s on the SKv2 1500 watt amp in a down firing box and 4 TX65 speakers on the RP-75.4AB amp all powered by a Sony XAV-AX6000 head unit. Perfect system if your on a budget😂😂
how loud are the tx65’s on the amp? I have the same speakers and was thinking about putting them on an amp? Do you have the under the seat box for the subs as well?
@@barrettsimpson744 they’re pretty loud and they sound pretty good but I’m definitely going to upgrade to the FSX65 and get new tweeters and I do have the sealed underseat box
Run them subs on a medium to low volume for at least a couple days so the rubber surrounding will break in and the subs will last you..
From the outside look clean
I am putting together a new system now. I had 3 p3 8's in a ported box in my 05 Crewcab with a zx1500.1 on them and they slammed. In my doors I have 4 Memphis 5.25's in the rear and 2 sets of Boston Acoustic 6.5 comps. I am not sure of the sub setup yet. I am thinking 4 Memphis Mojo mini 6.5's or 2 L7 8's, undecided. My amps are gonna be 1 zx2500.1 almost forgot my highs amp is 2 zr460's. But imo I would change your box to a ported behind the seat box. The under seat box doesn't deliver such a nice bass as the behind the seat box. Also check your crossovers for your tweeters make sure wires from truck an your wires are all the same signal (so they are playing backwards, which could be causing distortion). I put my bass knobwhere your 4x4 controls are since mine is 2wd and has the pocket.
I would recommend a ported box for a truck and I would upgrade your power and ground wire to 0 gauge Ofc wire and upgrade speakers wires to ofc. But overall great starter build
Ported will be louder and alot lower. And the foam on the subs will eventually wear a hole in them from vibration and the seat material.
Ream out mounting bracket holes scoot seat forward. Then add wood shelving top , jus enuff to keep seat tight and locked in place. After all fixed paint or carpet wood. Easy diy fix.🎉 sure local stereo shop could solve issue pretty easy too thou. While box out again use herculiner inside to keep box tight for years to come.
Firstly your “bass” knob is actually for external gain changes on the fly so you don’t have to get out of vehicle everytime you want to turn the gain up on your amplifier I’ve always turned gain all the way on my amplifiers and used the knob for changes never had problem yet. And also they have premade front firing boxes for under the seat ported and sealed
I have the the same set up and I put a piece of foam in between my sub box and my back seat to keep my subs from hitting by back seat.
I had the same problem with the behind the seat enclosure wit the VD-10 subs I screwed a strip of wood on the top of the sun box to lean the seats up a bit. Works great doesn’t rub anymore but the seats are like straight up.
Also my VD-10 subs sound great a have a ported box that might be the difference but it shakes the mirrors
Nice video love the channel🤙
So we just run power wires outside the factory grommets now? Sharp sheet metal and now the grommet isnt doing anything for water or moisture. Great job .
I work with this stuff all the time all you have to do is tune it it’s very simple and easy and as far as your sub box yes I would get a different box
If you have static On tweeters, you can use a ground loop for the rca cables or ground those cables. It could be that or you have your vocals turned up too high. As for the bass, gain does not equal volume, it shouldn’t be turned past 3/4. I find the sweet spot around between 1/2 and 3/4 for gain. Also find out where clipping is for your stereo, that way you can fine tune it to your deck. Every deck is different and will have to be tuned. Look up how to tune stereo with test tone, it should give you a good idea on how to tune your setup, If you don’t have the proper tuning equipment.
Stock radio, big 3 upgrade, DSP, fused distribution block power and ground, sound deadening, Blaupunkt bass processor, high quality Audio playback device with good quality audio tracks, 800rms 8s sound Hella good.
This is what i would always do when tuning my stereo
-find a song your familiar with how the notes should sound
- have the gain on your amp turned down and the eq on your radio all to zeros
- tune your interior speakers first. i like to crank it to the max area that i know the speakers wont start distorting adjusting the gains and volume till it can achieve the max level if you really want it loud.
- once the inside is good then do the subs. keep your bass eq at 0. don't really need to adjust that as it can all be controlled from the amp. plus you have the boost knob for certain songs that just need a little more bass. can change it on the fly but don't want to have to be changing things on the amp.
-turn your radio back up to the max you like to listen to and bring the gain up listening to the notes and detect any distortion if you go too high. you also have to keep in mind what your amp is rated for and your subs. if your amp is more powerful than subs you don't want to set the gain to high as it can blow them. gain is just the sensitivity of the amp to your subs
I had the same problem with my 06 cateye. I was going to use the shallow mount DD subs but they hit the back of the seat so I went with the JL Audio shallow mount subs. They are designed just for this application. They fit and they hit. If you need pics of my set up just let me know. Good luck
Hey man I would like pics, do you have a way to contact?
I had 1 12 down firing under the seat in my 1500 fit and sound good
Hey just a tip for little man but connect the green prk sw wire to ground and that will allow you to play movies while driving so he can watch them.
Probably needs a bigger sealed box. You could go ported, but idk how much more space you'd need for a proper ported box for those subs. You will be happier in a sealed box built to spec than an undersized ported box. Also, polyfill goes a long way in a sealed box. Just looks into air space requirements for your subs and see if you've got the space for a ported box for both subs, otherwise I'd just make a bigger sealed box as it will bring down the resonant frequency and allow them to play louder at lower frequencies.
If that wiring kit is CCA, there's a high chance your positive lead might corrode over time under your engine. It's also probably restricting current flow to some extent compared to ofc (knukonceptz has a pretty cheap, higher quality ofc wiring kit I'd have recommended over the Skar one)
Go with thicker speaker wire for your subs (12 AWG), that definitely restricts power flow and adds unnecessary resistance to your system
Alpine type s subs are perfect for that box!
Skar isn’t a bad company I had two of there sdr 15s and over powered them constantly and they held up amazingly but I ended up switching to sundown just for something bigger for the lows and i had a x series v.2 15 and it would slam but I sold it all and now have a single cab f-350 and now your going to make me buy subs for behind my seat
I would recommend contacting Dean @ 5-star stereos in Florida. He also has a channel on utube with the same name, 5-star stereos. As for the power for the amp. I would suggest 100% copper and either 4 or 8 gauge wire.
I have a scar setup, but I bought a custom ported box for behind the seats for better bass and sound
If you read my comment I’d like to kn what do you do for a living besides CZcams or if you do jst tht now what did you do before because you hv so much land and it’s very nice. You should do a tour of your property and how did you but it for with how much acres if you share if not no problem and watching you work on you truck makes me want that same year and body style even more just clean appreciate the content and how much do you think these trucks would and can go for right now
The JL audio stealthbox is the way way to go, fits way better behind the seat.
Nice setup! You prob need to turn the bass knob up more for the bass to really hit.
Subs bring so much more joy to driving!
A lot of 10” subs can’t hit low frequencies likes 12” subs can. I have my amp set at 80 hertz and that is what most amps do best at 80 instead of 100. Make sure that you set your crossover correctly on you radio to match up with you subs and amp. If you have your amp setup at 100 hertz then you need your radio crossover set at 100 hertz also. You have to tune your radio and amp together to get the correct sound and output or you can damage your subs. I have a down firing box in my Silverado with 1, 10” JL audio sub and it sounds amazing. Most factory systems can’t compete with aftermarket systems, but in some cars, factory do sound good, but in Chevy Silverado trucks, aftermarket is the way to go hands down and if you have Bose, do yourself a favor and just bypass the Bose system when installing an aftermarket system, you will be glad that you did!!! I have a 2, 12” JL audio subs in my s10, which I love but now I’m older, I love bass, but not too much where you can hear me for a mile like my s10. So that’s why I only have 1, 10” sub in my Silverado. I’m just gonna please myself, not anyone else, lol. I do love my thump, but not as much as I use too! 😊
Once you break the subs in. Turn the gain and LPf up on the Amp then tune with the bass knob.... and then turn the bass down on your radio. That should make your door speakers more clear.
Use a multimeter on your amp and set the gain that way. The math is available online, but you are basically basing it off the output voltage to determine how much wattage your amp is out puting. You obviously want to have an output wattage under what the RMS rating of the sub woofers and the RMS rating of the amp. If you output more than what the amp can do, you will see the voltage plateau, but at that point your are clipping and sending a flattened signal to the speakers. And obviously if you output more than the speaker rating the coils will burn up and they will "blow". So set the gain on the conservative side. Also I suggest amping the door speakers and tweeters too. The head unit outputs about 13 watts and clips at about 90% volume.
Speakers popping