@@marcuschambers62 sorry my mistake What I mean to say is Zinsser... I've used B.I.N. too mush and never good with names... so I sometimes get mixed up.
Ohhh the scratching - as bad as chalk on a blackboard!!!! I'm currently painting new pine skirting and architrave before fitting. Ive primed and put one coat of undercoat on skirting. I still have a few places that need filling (my ocd probably). Once filled should I put second coat of undercoat or go straight to satinwood finish coat? btw undercoat covered inital filling over primer very well. Similar question for architrave. I have primed all over and then undercoated the outside edge, to prevent getting paint on wall. Would you paint architrave first or install and then undercoat and satinwood finish? Is one coat of primer, undercoat and satinwood enough. If extra coat is required would you do extra undercoat or extra satinwood finish? Thanks.
Thanks for the video. It's not just the introduction of the primer/undercoat. (oil based) Dulux have now started doing a top coat with undercoat combined , oil based . Which I tried but found it too thick and left more brush strokes visible. So added a little white spirit to make a little thinner and applied two coats. Not sure if this was the correct thing to do. But it was certainly easier to put on. Your thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated please. Thank you.
Solo paints have been around for a while.. they are thixotropic so your not really meant to thin or stir unless oils visible on the surface.. basically okay for a quick job.. thanks
What about when it comes to plastic After normal surface clean and prep ie very light sand Then mild soap and water clean Then rubbing Alcohol to ensure surface is very clean Then acrylic primer spray on Always allow suffiecent time between coats for paint to suffiecently dry Not found an acrylic spray on acrylic undercoat as yet Then spray on top coat and maybe a wetsand in between coats once fully dried Then after a final top coat I'd use a clear coat to give finish more durability
Ditto, for some reason my mum had previously 'varnished' the white gloss so as I had some primer u/c left I used it. Once glossed lots of small 'spots' appeared where the gloss hadn't bonded. Interested to know why
@@PaintingandDecorating sorry pal. I can also be wrong from time to time but you must have the only tin of oil based valspar primer/ undercoat in the country !!
In the old days, primer was created by adding linseed oil to oil based paints so it soaks into the bare timber, similar adding water to exterior water based paints so it soaks in also works,especially on decks and bare steps. Yes im old and it was taught as part of my trade.
@@PaintingandDecorating lol, maybe it's a paint you have never heard of and so therefore discount it. You used to bang on how amazing Valspar is and used to B.I. N primer everything, things change hey?
@@marcuschambers62 not really we do use different products for a peticular surface. Doors are made from different types of wood also it depends on time scale... in and out jobs you would use BIN primer if any issues with stains or adhesion. Followed by water based system... you seam to think one paint suits everything.
@@marcuschambers62 it’s all down to preference & what works for you. I don’t think you have to know every paint brand on the market to be good at your job, which the P&D brothers clearly are. As for “high end work “ you must be some painter if you can produce better work than they do. Happy painting 👍🏼🏴
JESUS CHRIST!! YOU JUST ABOUT KILLED ME WITH THAT SCRATCHING!!! PIERCED RIGHT THROUGH MY VERY SOUL!! 😖😖😖🙉🙉🙉
That scratching sound, it was like cold water in a warm bathtub.
Made me shiver
That Dulux trade undercoat, even after all the solvent/VOC regs is still an excellent product.
Great vid man!
Thanks.
I personally think the dulux trade oil based undercoat and gloss are hard to beat for interior work as is the satinwood.
Valspar is crap.
I’ve just done a set of previously stained french doors. Degreased, light key, 1 coat of Bullseye 123. Opacity & scratch test superb. 👍🏼🏴
Yes not bad that Bin 123
just used some bulls eye 123 over some stained bannisters light key up and it stuck like S@@T to a blanket!
@@PaintingandDecorating bullseye 123 and B.I.N are two totally different paints in case you weren't aware?
its water based as well!
@@marcuschambers62 sorry my mistake What I mean to say is Zinsser... I've used B.I.N. too mush and never good with names... so I sometimes get mixed up.
Ohhh the scratching - as bad as chalk on a blackboard!!!!
I'm currently painting new pine skirting and architrave before fitting. Ive primed and put one coat of undercoat on skirting. I still have a few places that need filling (my ocd probably). Once filled should I put second coat of undercoat or go straight to satinwood finish coat? btw undercoat covered inital filling over primer very well.
Similar question for architrave. I have primed all over and then undercoated the outside edge, to prevent getting paint on wall. Would you paint architrave first or install and then undercoat and satinwood finish?
Is one coat of primer, undercoat and satinwood enough. If extra coat is required would you do extra undercoat or extra satinwood finish?
Thanks.
Thanks for the video.
How do you remove the Valspar primer undercoat?
Thanks for the video. It's not just the introduction of the primer/undercoat. (oil based)
Dulux have now started doing a top coat with undercoat combined , oil based .
Which I tried but found it too thick and left more brush strokes visible. So added a little white spirit to make a little thinner and applied two coats. Not sure if this was the correct thing to do. But it was certainly easier to put on. Your thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated please.
Thank you.
Solo paints have been around for a while.. they are thixotropic so your not really meant to thin or stir unless oils visible on the surface.. basically okay for a quick job.. thanks
@@PaintingandDecorating oh dear. 🙄 Well thank you for your reply.
What about when it comes to plastic
After normal surface clean and prep ie very light sand
Then mild soap and water clean
Then rubbing Alcohol to ensure surface is very clean
Then acrylic primer spray on
Always allow suffiecent time between coats for paint to suffiecently dry
Not found an acrylic spray on acrylic undercoat as yet
Then spray on top coat and maybe a wetsand in between coats once fully dried
Then after a final top coat
I'd use a clear coat to give finish more durability
Now you know why Dulux is more expensive.
Valspar isn’t as good as dulux anyway?
Would the knots not come through without a zinssor?
Yep
@@PaintingandDecorating did you zinssor before applying the undercoat then?
Just tried to use valspar primer undercoat waterbased, it's horrendous, won't cover paint brush lines terrible like applying flour and water.
Yes best to keep away from all in one paints... Always use separate primers and undercoats that's my rule. Thanks
Can you help me please. I painted over a dulux washable paint with leyland super leytex and I've got hundreds of small bubbles come up.
Ditto, for some reason my mum had previously 'varnished' the white gloss so as I had some primer u/c left I used it. Once glossed lots of small 'spots' appeared where the gloss hadn't bonded. Interested to know why
Thanks again !
Your welcome.
Mate. On this occasion you’ve got it wrong . Valspar primer /undercoat is water based , not oil based . That’s why it hasn’t stuck!!!
@@stephenevans1833 sorry mate they do both.
@@PaintingandDecorating sorry pal. I can also be wrong from time to time but you must have the only tin of oil based valspar primer/ undercoat in the country !!
@@stephenevans1833 just posted a picture of the Valspar oil primer undercoat on the community feed. I,m not wrong pal.
Scratch test was disappointing, especially after two days.
Yes not sure if something is wrlng with that paint... too much linseed oil possibly.
@@PaintingandDecorating nothing for the oil to soak into,are you going to sand back or paint over, i think its on the border line myself?
I was told by a painter primer is just an undercoat that was just thinned downed, so just thin your undercoat for primer coat.
No a primer has different properties than undercoat.. primer will hold the surface far better than just undercoat on bare wood. Thanks
In the old days, primer was created by adding linseed oil to oil based paints so it soaks into the bare timber, similar adding water to exterior water based paints so it soaks in also works,especially on decks and bare steps. Yes im old and it was taught as part of my trade.
My ears!
Tikkurila Otex primer undercoat, for those who undertake high end work will know how good it is.
But if you're in the know you will know that no primer is needed..
@@PaintingandDecorating lol, maybe it's a paint you have never heard of and so therefore discount it. You used to bang on how amazing Valspar is and used to B.I. N primer everything, things change hey?
@@marcuschambers62 not really we do use different products for a peticular surface. Doors are made from different types of wood also it depends on time scale... in and out jobs you would use BIN primer if any issues with stains or adhesion. Followed by water based system... you seam to think one paint suits everything.
@@marcuschambers62 it’s all down to preference & what works for you. I don’t think you have to know every paint brand on the market to be good at your job, which the P&D brothers clearly are.
As for “high end work “ you must be some painter if you can produce better work than they do.
Happy painting 👍🏼🏴
@@PaintingandDecorating lol bit rich considering it appears every job you complete internally is done with Dulux trade satinwood!