Making a MANUAL Clutch for the V8 RC Car - FINALLY!
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- čas přidán 30. 04. 2023
- Toyan V8 engine ➜ bit.ly/3V14CG3
Starter kit ➜ bit.ly/3ldJZXe
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Other V8 engines ➜ bit.ly/3Li50KX
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I think it would be really cool to see an fpv driving simulator for this. Hook the controls up to a steering wheel, gearshift, and pedals and then have a live feed so its like you're actually driving.
Then hook it up to your PC sim controlling it with a wheel and pedals. And then if it had telemetry data for a motion rig... oh hell yes , Awesomeness 👌
every mans dream
It would be cool to see the cars being used.
Is this not the plan?
Could go a step further with VR and a camera on a gimbal.
And just like that, full RPM launches became possible, haha. Awesome work!
Dump it baby
I love how his machining is so beautiful and precise he doesn’t even test it - just mounts permanently in the car and it works. Outstanding work - really is - QUESTION - do you think you will end up making a version that has the traditional transmission and bell housing?
That would be incredibly awesome if he did
dude, this is not live tv, most certainly he had several tries and tests before he shot the final build....
The magic of editing. No doubt this guy is skilled, but nobody actually builds something like this from scratch this perfectly.
@@PaxHeadroom I agree but at the same time, it's not impossible thanks to the existence of math. These days, you can do a full FEM simulation on an average gaming laptop. "All that's to it" is proper design. Measure thrice - cut once, if you will.
Nice work brother! This is what we need for our 4 stroke engines 👍👍👍
Hi JohnnyQ90.- Two thoughts: Wouldn't it be better to use a friction (and heat) resistant material for the clutch cone such as the one used in brake pads or clutch discs? Second, While engaging the clutch, you are applying axial thrust to the engine crankshaft.- Can the crankshaft bearings manage this..?? Regards, have a nice day...
valid question regarding the axial thrust/stress caused by the lateral forces of this DIY clutch... I don't believe these Toyans were made to be used as such, more like display pieces and/or generator models.
He's already run a car with a similar engine. And he's able to machine and upgrade any parts that might show as weaknesses.
@@BeezyKing99 This could be solved placing a thrust bearing between the engine and the clutch and fixed to the chassis...
Nylon (or any random plastic) cones are ok.
The power output is minimal and thge contact area is wide.
If the torque to be transmitted will ever exceed the clutch "rating", it's simply a matter of making a new bigger/wider/longer one.
Not to mention that a new cone will take a very short time to make (the shape is simple enough and the material easily adapts in the case of a mismatched angle).
Regarding the axial load on the clutch, as Carlos Schagun noted, it's simply a matter of using a thrust bearing on the bearing support...
However, even shitty ball/roller bearing can take some axial load, and I doubt that servo is pushing with such force.
@@Morannar I´m not worried about the axial load on the clutch assembly, I´m worried about the load transmitted to the engine crankshaft that most likely cannot handle this type of load.- To avoid this, a thrust bearing must be placed between the engine and the clutch.
Beautiful, your engineering skills are admirable! Just one thought, there must be lots of axial force on the bushing and male cone of the clutch, maybe it's not an issue, but I can see how a little thrust bearing in there could help :)
Cone clutches don't need much force to work. Delrin is a pretty good bearing material so I don't expect he will have much trouble there. At a guess the most likely problem will be the Delrin melting where it meets the female taper.
Hope there's going to be a lube system for that gearbox !! Awesome work as always ❤
Encase it in acrylic maybe?
@@RingingResonance Some thin sheet metal maybe because the friction is going to cause heat and that heat will transfer to the oil and then into the casing (As it does in real cars) so you want something that can absorb and conduct heat fairly well.
I would suggest changing the servo positioning such that the servo horn is almost parallel with the linkage it is pulling on at "full clutch lock". This will give you greater precision for slipping the clutch, more pressure that the servo can actually put into the clutch, and also put less strain on the servo when holding the clutch engaged.
Or implement it like most full size cars, where the clutch springs pull it tight, and the input (clutch pedal) disengages it.
Your CNC and assembly skills are phenomenal! Excellent videos! Thank you!!
Love seeing the process and progress on this build. Keep up the great work and good luck
Once every few months I'm greeted by the incredible engineering and video quality of Jonny. Well done man, I love your content!
I've been following this build and had similar thoughts about the clutch system. This idea was, in my opinion, genius! Luv it man.. I was watching the parts being made and waiting for them to come together with such anticipation, from loving the idea, in my head I heard.. BOOM! followed by dramatic, inspirational music lol. Great job with all ur builds, this especially has me sittin at the edge waiting for the next update.. thanks for the content very enjoyable
I'd say I'm in rc car modelling, too, but comparingto this it's nothing. Man, what you are doing there is true art! Fascinating! Awesome! Keep it going! 👏
2:53 damn! that beat slaps tho
This when it’s complete will be the worlds fastest rc car by far
I love it you're the boss. All of us passenger seat engineers who could only dream of having the equipment you get to sport. And will never have anything close to a scaled down super bad ass V8 engine to install in an r/c car. Are giving you all the advice you can possibly handle. My only suggestion is to load the clutch with a springamathing so as to take the load off of the servo. You're awesome JQ!
Awesome man! Love your content. I’m a auto tech. The only thing I could recommend is to make the clutch self engaging. That way it doesn’t put extra load on the engine from the friction of the clutch fork bushing when you trying to draw power of the engine. You could have a it spring loaded and relaxes the spring tension with a clutch fork to let it free wheel. Like they do on normal manual transmission. I think the extra friction is hurting the performance greatly.
your skills never cease to amaze me...well done my friend, thank you for another video!
Now you can do clutch kicks :D
But, by engaging the clutch you are putting axial load on bearings. Don't have any idea how to solve that right now, I'm just pointing out.
Your workmanship is impeccable. I wish I had half the machinery you have.
I love RC videos so I'm surprised I haven't seen this till now. This thing is cool. It also sounds amazing for being that small
Always enjoy your content! Can’t wait to see this thing rip!!
Bravo, la más alta obra de ingeniería... Saludos desde Argentina
Wow just wow your work is amazing! What I wouldn’t do to have talent and skill to this level! Love watching your work! Keep it up! Truly amazing skill!
Interesting use case for what appears to be UHMD in a friction application. Normally that is used to reduce friction, if that is in fact UHMD. That set up is also creating a little more load for that little engine. Only mentioned that since you mentioned the 4WD was working the motor hard. All those extra rotating friction points are also adding slight loads that will eventually add up. Still a great build, not knocking it at all, keep up the good work.
Stunning job so far! I did noticed the teflon cone was coming out of the clutch housing while revving the enging. Not sure if centrifugal forces are overcoming the engagement solenoid or not. Just FYI.
Maybe it will be better if it disengages when pedal is pressed like a normal car, that way it can use stiffer springs
I find all your videos amazing, keep up the good work!
Sewing machine conical clutches use leather as the friction material. in the 25+ years I have used them, don't think I ever had to change the leather. Nice and smooth too.
Are the RPM even close?
It was a fairly common clutch system in turn of the century cars, too. Off hand, I know Renault used it.
@@GeomancerHT 3krpm
Awesome work as always, think you may need to look at wheel balancing though.
Hey , you should get a remote where you can mix the channels . For example CH2 which is throttle and the channel you use for the clutch , so that when you give throttle the clutch engages without use of a third hand. Great job as always!!!
Interesting. Would he be able to adjust them independently? I ask because the clutch needs to become fully engaged, before the throttle is fully engaged. I’m guessing the clutch servo will move little compared to the throttle servo. But I like this idea very much 👍
@@SilverShux yes you can vary the rate of the channel or even disengage it. We use it on rc crawler for exemple to winch accordingly to throttle.
as always, fantastic work and design!
when you're parting anything off on the lathe, use the back of a cheap bic pen to catch the part or just stop it and pull it off when it's really close. that will save you a lot of dings and scratches.
Finally! I've been waiting for years to see you make a manual clutch! So cool
That is AMAZING! That engine sounds so GOOOOOOOOOD!
That’s insane beautiful build the engine sounds nice
Wow you never seam to disappoint .your just amazing brother
My Mosquito racket stopped working. Its Lead acid battery failed. I soldered a 18650, now its working fine. Now i have to place the Charging circuit in the bat. I have a small motor with drill attachment, which i have to use to remove all plastic for fitting charging circuit. This guy has so nice tools, i feel like jumping off a tall building.
You could use channel mixing on the remote to apply the clutch smoothly for the first few percent of your throttle throw. The dial would still allow you to actuate it manually if you wanted to do full throttle launches or anything like that. It would also make it so it will automatically disengage the clutch when you brake so you don't kill the engine.
Many people have mentioned the wear on the engine's crankshaft since it likely isn't built to handle the axial thrust from a clutch. Depending on how durable you want it to be, it may be necessary to fabricate some form of external thrust bearing or a clutch that acuates from both sides to eliminate the thrust.
Love your projects!
Awesome work Jonny😊
The lathe work blows my mind
Looks so good, I am waiting for a longer video with full presentation of the car 😎
Awesome high technical work
As some other comments have said, that brass collet could be replaced with a bearing of some sort, lots of friction will get built up there. Another thought on the cone clutch, if you put in some helical splines on the taper surface, that should help it bite into engagement (until it wears out of course)
I think your best bet is going to be light weight steel bell housing and a steel cone with a machined down brake pad to fit either around the inside of the bell or outside of the cone for better engagement. I noticed the cone back out under load and also figured the Teflon probably wouldnt provide the best grip for this application.
Spectacular project my friend 👍
the build we all have been waiting for!
You do amazing work!
Sencillamente bello, buen trabajo
Amazing, greath work. It shakes a little when throtling.
Восхищаюсь автором! Джони,знай,у тебя есть поклонник из Казахстана 🇰🇿🇰🇿🇰🇿 ты осуществляешь мою мечту
Can't wait to see a finished product 🙌 ❤ 💯
Excellent, what a great bit of micro engineering
This is so incredibly cool!
Amazing work, one thing that comes to mind though this looks like it's got more torque then your typical glow engine, and the gearbox has more gears and counter gears then a typical setup wouldn't enclosing the transmission and adding something like ATF oil provide more protection just like a real transmission to protect your work, just a thought.
Amazing work man 👍
Crazy skills you have 👌
5 axis mill! I’m impressed
Just a suggestion from turning similar plastic materials. A shop vac will draw away the chips preventing them from wrapping around the tool and/or part
hello, your work is fantastic! I really like RC. Big hug from Brazil 🇧🇷
You are a master of your craft. Engineering a clutch system for your 4-speed transmission is all inspiring, I can't wait to see the things you build. I build a lot of My RCS from scratch used parts from children's toys and 1/10 scale RC parts. Carbon plastic in wood and metal s. The car you're doing right now is what all RC's should be. I have installed a 2.5 ofnah nitro motor into a RadioShack 1/5 scale Camaro. The first time I took it out to drive it the engine revved out of control and destroyed my drive shaft so now it has sat for a year while I build 1/10 scale crawlers and trail trucks. I look forward to everything you build, it's quite amazing. Can't wait to see what is next🤔
Your work and progression on this has been great to follow!
2 quick questions if I may, are you still working on the supercharger? and what is the outro music called?
Great work as always 👍👍
amazing work Q90
I have to say you are truly a RC Genius at engineering... im a old Traxxas and tamiyo guy. And your custom stuff just Blows my mind 🤯😉🤙👊🤌
Cool. I have a Tamiya Toyota Hilux still sitting here that came with a 3-speed gearbox. On an electric motor. Beautiful piece, completely sealed. Although not sealed enough to run in oil, which would have been even better.
Nice work mate 👍🏻
Coming along great👊👏👏👏👏
It always awesome to follow your vids.
- I think you will need a different power plant/engine if it can’t handle the additional drivetrain resistance from 4wd, with no load on it. Just a thought.
Holy Crap your one hell of a designer 😳.
Love your innovativeness .
Nice work again 👏
so cool - ty for this 😊👍
I'd make the gearbox and the rear diff one unit. You have a CNC, cutting the two gears required to do this would be easy for you. You could also have a transfer case from that diff to the front if you want 4WD, but honestly, 4WD is kinda overrated in my opinion on RC stuff (when you're not offroading as a type).
That should give you a 50/50 weight distribution easily if the battery/fuel and electronics live in the center. You can also try making a torque tube type construction for it, which then removes the need for a bottom plate, which in turn makes the car much lighter. I've never done it myself, but i've seen one third scale RCs with it.
Also, for the clutch, look up "OEM 121K42230" or "121K38310" and dive into the world of those types of clutches. Ditch the RC types, because they'll never be as good as a miniaturization from car to RC car, whereas these clutches have been in the making for over 40 years and have various sizes and power couples. They're also reasonably cheap these days with most manufacturers looking to make things as cheap as possible, thus ditching using clutches in their products in favor of other methods of coupling, thus relegating these as spare parts.
I've been using such clutches for RC for quite a while now and they're bulletproof. I've never changed the (already used, recuperated from a 1990's Xerox machine) clutch i have adapted for my early 2000's RC car, still up and running and i'm not even using it at its full power potential (12v) rather at half of it, because it mimics real clutch behavior that way.
Hmm very interesting.
I enjoyed it very much, thank you
I can't wait to see the final product of this.
That's something else nice johney 👍
Loved watching this entire video JohnnyQ90!!! Your "detail" on whatever it is your working on is so exquisite! Looking forward to the next video!!! : >)
This is the best sounding RC engine.
Hey John ? You should have put the center section/clutch & motor on one flat piece of stock ,to mount them solidly together.
The chassis flex can be a issue .
Chassis flex will also be an issue for steering, since the steering servo is mounted so far from the front.
A rod across the top of the chassis, from shock tower to shock tower, will really help out.
This is next level badass.
Amazing as always.
Nice project!
Super neat. It (the car) is way bigger than I thought it was, too.
Excellent Job 😮
Use the servo to release a spring loaded clutch. Super easy and adapts to loads.
My dog loves the sounds as always
I never knew a V8 that small could sound so good!😂
good job man,it's a futur cool car....
Man thats pretty legit got what looks like mini Liberty gear box 🤣 . im not really an RC guy, but I do love race cars and seeing people machine their own stuff.
Look at all the chassis flex in the end! The car would most probably benefit greatly from some upper structure. This would also stop unnecessary wear to the drive train components
As a little side project, you could make a little test stand with rollers, like a dyno. Would be pretty useful for all the testing you've been doing on various cars. Adjustable wheelbase for different chassis?
It clutch is more interesting. Impressive work. My respects.
I love that engine ROAR!! :) !!
An aircraft transmitter would probably make using the clutch and shifting gears easier. Then you would be able to engage/disengage the clutch, steer, shift gears, and rev it all at the same time.
I think it might be beneficial to preload the clutch in the engaged position with some internal springs and then only releasing it. I think the bushing will wear out very quickly
Super cool!
Absolutely nuts, great work, will you encase the gearbox at some point to oil it? That going to get hot.
Dang now this is a scaled down car!
This is really cool, I enjoy watching this actually work, but was wondering if a small alternater to charge the batteries would work?
Wow bro love your videos
Incredible!
first of. beautiful. fun to se. but as interested i ofc se things i think about (like many others in the comments)
my thought was that the lever from the servo to the clutch should be so that the clutch moves less and has more force. im afraid this will slip. also if the servo is to hold force all the time it will consume battery and maby get hot, so a spring should engage and the servo only disengage.