Barebow Build - part 2 - Plunger, Arrow Rest & Miscellaneous
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- čas přidán 27. 06. 2024
- Coach Elton continues with the nuances of setting up the remaining items on a new Barebow setup.
He shares some tips regarding the installation of a bow grip and balancing weight. He then dives into some important archery philosophy, before covering the specifics on how to install a plunger and arrow rest within the context of the ‘Repeatable Consistency’ concept. At each step of the discussion, he demonstrates the applicable context for better understanding of these fundamental concepts.
Jaeger Archery products can be found at:
jagerarchery.com/
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Contents:
00:00 Intro
00:48 Grip Swap
03:32 Balancing Weight Install
04:25 Archery Philosophy: ‘Repeatable Consistency’
06:14 Plunger & Arrow Rest Install
11:36 Spigarelli ZT Rest Setup
16:15 Rest Wire Positioning
19:40 Velcro Fuzz for your Riser Shelf
20:06 Closing Thoughts - Sport
These Barebow Basics videos are really the best. So much useful information that can't be found anywhere else, even by some well-known archers. No blablabla just very precise and super well-organized instructions. Mr. Wong is the best!
I just want to say thank you and how incredibly useful and valuable of a resource this video series has been for me. No other channel has does as good of a job of clearly explaining exactly what a new barebow archer needs to know, without extraneous information.
A very good teacher
I recently started archery with a trad recurve set up, but I do love playing with setting stuff up sometimes, so a full on barebow setup might be on the cards in the future....thanks for the great video!
Thank you so much for this. i always thought my rest could never go high enough for the arrow to align nicely with the plunger. And the part about tolerance adjustment is very valuable. These things don't come with a comprehensive manuals, as far as I know.
Hi Elton! That is the best explanation of setting up a Spigarelli rest I have seen or read! Way better than that old Spiga video with the blaring music where they basically just bend the wire. I am guilty of dogging the screws down too tight, and always dreaded changing arrow diameters. Thanks for sharing your method!
Excellent... as always. this video got me " back on track".
Thanks, Elton. Love the reference points.
Thanks great video and very helpful
nice video. solved a couple of my problems
When you put in the modified screw for the plunger, do you ever tighten the rear set screw in the housing? I get that the point is to be able to make adjustments more easily, but I wonder if you have issues with it vibrating out of position?
It is ok to snug it up a little, just to add more friction to the side of the adjustment screw. But don’t tighten it down entirely as the goal is to have it so that it can still be turned/adjusted as necessary. As long as you haven’t lost it, Shibuya originally installed a tiny little disc of nylon that the set screw pushes against. This creates the friction against the adjustment screw without the metal of the set screw tip biting into the adjustment screw threads.
Thanks so much! I recently ordered everything I need for a barebow setup and was curious about something -- my riser comes with a clicker plate extension (riser in question is a Sebastien Flute NEO) but obviously I'm not planning on using a clicker...does it make a difference whether I install the clicker plate or not? Will it interfere with anything if I install it and just don't use it?
Thanks for all your videos, they've been a huge help so far!
Most of us leave it off, if it’s not integrated as part of the rest/plunger mounting hardware like on the Hoyt Vertatune plate. Those that are separate just becomes another item that can come loose during a shoot.
@@barebowbasicsThanks!
This is a great setup video. I have a question regarding the nocking points. You provide great info on how to center the shaft of the arrow onto the plunger by adjusting the rest, but when do you decide to set nocking points? Do you just set the rest with the arrow nocked at zero or do you put the rest in a relatively close position then set your nocking points using a square from there? Most videos I see have a top nock 1/2” above zero so I’m trying to avoid having the nock in the wrong location when setting everything up. Thanks!!
While I haven’t stated it explicitly just yet, the understanding that should be accumulating along the way in these videos so far is that everything is moveable and adjustable. (This reasoning becomes very apparent and will be explained in the future tuning video) As such, where you start with your nocking points isn’t terribly critical because you just move them later with a few twists when we get to basic tuning. Until then, if you’re looking for a general location to place them, slightly above square from the plunger hole is fine. (Such as your observation of people generally starting about half an inch above)
Got it! Thanks Elton! Love the videos you’re putting out. They’re extremely helpful
@@barebowbasics one last question. I went with the Shibuya plunger from this video and it comes with a metal tip and a teflon tip. Which do you recommend using? Shooting carbon arrows if that matters. Thanks again!!
@danbuzzurro534 it’s really personal preference. Archers have shot both tips with both types of arrow material over many years and it really hasn’t made that much of a difference. I would suggest the teflon simply because it’s quieter; that’s what I went with for the demonstration bow that I just shot at the Lancaster Classic.
Sounds good. I appreciate the help as always! Looking forward to your next video
very useful and Elton are you still teaching class for barebow? if so how I can join it?
I do still coach in private occasionally; reach out to me via Facebook and we can discuss in Messenger.
@@barebowbasics
Can you advise your name in Facebook please thank you
Just search for Elton Wong you’ll recognize me from the picture. 😁
Hi Elton. Is there any benefit in having the contact points of the arrow to the plunger in line with the contact points of the arrow to the arrow shaft?
Nice tip for rhe velcro. My usual practice is for just some black electrical tape applied to the surface of the riser where the tip of the arrow rest might strike to prevent wear.
For fixed distance shooting, there is no practical benefit to forcing the two contact points to be in line. When shooting field events with varying yardages, which require multiple crawl distances, it is possible for it to make a small difference. But field archery is a more advanced game that most beginners avoid so I did not want to confuse matters during a first time bow set up.
@@barebowbasics Thank you.
@@barebowbasicsOne other thing. Any reason why socket cap screws were recommended instead of the mushroom head ones (despite both using Allen wrenches for install)?
@@azzlaziz It depends on the grip. On some occasions the hole will not be drilled perfectly aligned with the threaded hole in the riser. In those rare cases a button head (‘mushroom’) would run into the counterbore wall. So if the clearance is there, sure, button head will work just as well. If not, socket head will pretty much always work.
@@barebowbasics Thanks again. I just find socket head are so bulky and will protrude quite a bit from the grip surface compared to mushroom heads.
the tip of the wire rest the arrow before or after the botton??
Unless you are crawling at multiple distances for a game like field, placement of the wire tip front to back is not super critical; once you have tuned for that wire position and crawl, you’ll see that the wire tip position is not really relevant for single distance shooting. (Truth is, many archers obsess about the position when it doesn’t matter)
@@barebowbasicsthanks its for multiple distance in open field
That treads beyond beginners territory; but the answer is to keep the support point where the arrow shaft contacts the wire of the rest as close to straight out from the tip of the plunger as possible. The wire should end very close to just past this point as well. Also, if possible, the wire should be bent so as to be at a relatively aggressive angle, rather than the typical shallow angle from factory. But this is difficult to describe and must be demonstrated. (Again, well beyond beginners content)
@@barebowbasics thanks for all
If you are attending Field trials in Indiana this year, good luck!!! Looks like a good size crowd is going. 😁
Hey, am I the only one that just throws all these things together and hangs loose at the range checking out the babes?
🤣