Shot Process Basics
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- čas přidán 27. 06. 2024
- Coach Elton goes over the basics of shot process, and important related aspects beginners should be aware of.
He returns to the concept of ‘Repeatable Consistency’ to cover bow hand interaction with the grip, specifics on draw side finger hook technique, and explains the nuances of choosing an anchor point. After a brief explanation of how to easily approach string walking, he summarizes the important points of the entire shot process sequence while on the competitive line.
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Contents:
00:00 Intro
01:10 Bow Hand Interaction
01:54 Palm Placement
02:32 Finger Relaxation
03:53 Draw-side Hook
05:03 Stringwalking, Simplified
06:03 Anchor Point
07:30 Shot Process Summary
09:34 First time Stringwalking Crawl
11:01 Closing Thoughts - Sport
Amazingly great help to us getting started in barebow. Your videos are perhaps the best videos I have seen for ANY subject. You give so much so gracefully, precise, and willingly. You are a blessing! Thank you for doing these videos!
Hi coach, i just finished all of your videos. Literally studying archery before i start shooting in the range. Thank you for your informative videos. Much love from the Philippines.
Excellent video Coach Elton. Easy to understand and easy to follow. Thank you.👍
I've always used the corner of lip as my anchor point, I shall try the top canine tooth in my next shoot. Cheers!!!
Elton at it again! Nice job sir!
Great video!
Nice info!!! many thanks!!!!
I'm a gap aim archer, but I definitely want to up my stringwalking game. Thank you for your guidance, Coach 🏹
As long as you’re not shooting a long bow, ditch the gap. Aim either lollipop or point on. Crawl for all necessary trajectory changes. (Tune for mid point distance, if shooting multiple distances) I PROMISE your shooting performance will increase. String walking is a vastly superior way of aiming; sight picture is much more precise as the aim point is not nebulous, and adjustments can be made very easily and quickly on the fly.
@@barebowbasics Thank you again Coach. I shoot barebow at my first claim club, although I'm about to join longbow club too., for their 3d archery facility mainly. My barebow journey has so far brought me to the ranking of 4th best novice barebow man in my region (west midlands, UK) archery GB summer metrics listings. I'm very pleased with that 🙂. Strictly barebow. Onwards and upwards 🏹
Excellent video thank you. Maybe a bit advanced but would be great to see a video on how to aim, execute and follow through.
Aiming point is a matter of personal preference. Most archers aim with the ‘lollipop’ method I demonstrated near the end of this video, where you put the yellow center of the target above the blurred tip of the arrow. Alternatively, you can place the blurred tip of the arrow directly on the center of the yellow. I will definitely be going into a little bit more detail at the start of the tuning video that is coming soon. As for execution, I do hope to film a video on back tension and shot execution in the future when time allows.
Great video and super helpful! One part of setting up the bow I missed was how to actually but the string on the bow. I've seen some videos from others but it seems like people have their own tricks and was wondering how you do it. Thanks!
It’s generally not advised for beginners to attempt, but on lower poundage bows I often use the push pull method. (I acknowledge that’s a little hypocritical…) The risk with that approach is that the top ILF limb can pop out during the push portion, (Very Bad News!) so while it can be done, I never advocate it for others. (I accept the risk of injury or damage to my own equipment) For higher poundage bows I typically use the step through method, if I’m only going to be stringing or unstringing once or twice. If I’m in bow setup mode where I will be stringing and unstringing repeatedly over the course of an hour or so while making many adjustments, I always use a bow stringer.
Ok, makes sense. Thank you for the detailed response! Once everything is all set up can I just leave the string on it between range days? Sorry for all the questions @@barebowbasics
Yes, many of us leave the bow strung full time. Modern laminate limbs are pretty much immune to the long term effects of storing the bow strung. (Unless you leave them strung in a super hot car or something; that’s probably a bad idea). I generally only unstring when I need to travel with the bow over longer distances; for trips to the local ranges I just throw it into the back of the truck/suv and head on out.
Perfect! Thank you again for taking the time to help me understand @@barebowbasics
Very good videos, thanks a lot! My question is: how important is the position of the string shadow in full draw? Has it to be seen in exact alignement with the arrow in my side picture? Or little bit to the right? It depends on the individual ankerpoint, right?
String blur is a by-product of finger hook depth, anchor point and facial geometry. That is why there really is no right answer for where the blur should be. The main key is consistency; for a given archers setup their blur will be in a specific spot, and as long as they are hitting the same anchor with the same head position, and the hook depth has not changed, the blur should always fall into the same area. Statistically, many archers tend to have it fall such that it’s slightly to the outside of the riser when at anchor; some even reference where it crosses over the plunger body. The next largest group tend to have it right on the riser itself. Worrying about that position while at full draw is usually too much for most beginners to manage, and they start breaking their form elsewhere to accommodate the blur. (Very bad) It’s almost always better to just focus on coming to alignment properly and letting the blur fall where it does, provided there are no issues elsewhere in the form.
Do you recommend barebow archer to put the limbsaver on the front or back of the limb? Or put limb saver in both front and back at the same time?
Is there any difference between front and back placement?
From a technical standpoint, they can be placed anywhere. But for practical purposes, most archers place them on the side facing them when at draw. This keeps them out of the way during normal bow handling and helps preserve their longevity. They are typically placed about where the limb root fade is, but personal preference allows for any specific location the archer desires. The further out towards the tip, the more dampening, but the more the dampener will take away from limb energy transfer to the arrow.
You’re like a better looking version of the Archery 360 guy
Awww…🥴 Well, that guy out fishes me without even trying. 😎
I am enjoying your videos and I am learning. A problem that I have is the left/right impact point. What specifically about form should I be looking at to address this. I understand that plunger pressure can be used to fine tune this but my left/right gap is so large that I need to correct my form I believe. Could you address this in some future video please.
There are far too many variables that could be causing left/right patterns to easily cover in a text reply. Every aspect of form and set up are interrelated, so it’s possible you are compounding multiple issues to get those results. (It’s not always a single issue; more often than not, it’s very common for beginners to have multiple issues)
Normally, video footage at the least is required to try to diagnose when not in person. But here are the most common things you should take time to examine and consider: Ensure your grip pressure is balanced good. (Does the bow torque or twist on release?) Is your release smooth and clean? (Does your draw hand come away from your face, or does the bowstring make excessive twang noise? Is your hook too stiff or set too shallow?) Is the bow set up and arrow tune good? (Riser exhibits good follow through behavior? No arrow contact on release? Center shot set in a reasonable area? Plunger tension set in a reasonable mid range setting?)
More than likely, your issue (and solution) falls somewhere in that (large) pile of variables.
Thank you for responding so quickly. If I was shooting split finger, I would be "vertical" gap shooting due to the relative eye arrow position. Is the same not true for "left/right" gap shooting, or should the anchor point be such that the arrow is directly below my eye. I am living in regional NSW Australia. No club no coaching available I am trying to do self taught.
No, the anchor point is never dictated by the eye. See my response to the other comment asking about string blur; see if that helps clear things up for you.
I'm sorry, I kept getting distracted by the purple Yost!
Super rare collectible item. 😁😁
Yes that is a beautiful tab 😍