HOW TO TUNE YOUR YAMAHA FAZER FZ6 WITHOUT TOOLS FOR MORE TORQUE
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2024
- #yamahafz6 #fz6 #yamahafazer
IMPORTANT!! PLEASE READ... I do not know any correct fuel trim settings for your bike or exhaust system please dont ask 🙏 -C is leaner +C is richer This fuel trim adjustment feature demonstration is mainly there for people with Fazer's that are running lean..
I don't know any settings that would suit your bike or exhaust system.
You can try my settings and see if your bikes performance improves... Please read the comments as many people have different results with this.. Ride safe people 🤙
HOW TO TUNE YOUR YAMAHA FAZER FZ6 for more torque no tools needed. Just simply press buttons. Check out the vid
Hello@PXC bikes, I have an ‘08 S2 and confirm it worked. It's slightly different from the S1, but it's not confusing either. It was 0-0 for me and I set it to half of your settings at +4 and +6 and could immediately notice the change. Since I used to adjust the carbs on my old motorcycles, I could quickly feel the pulse and weight at which the pistons move. No more lightweightedness in 1st gear, and it pulls smoother. Thank you once more and awaiting more such content.
@abirammenon6399 yes it's the same as adjusting the pilot air or fuel screws on a carburettor...just going a little richer makes a difference
Hi! I have fz6 s1 2005.. My co settings was, Co1 =-1 Co2=16. Yesterday I was testing Your settings 8 and 12! Much better to ride at low rpm! And fuel consuption is basically the same! Thank You👍
That's good to know thank you 👍
@@PXCBIKES 👍👍
I did this to my fz6. The 1st cylinder was on 1.!.no wonder it was juddering in 1st gear in low speed. Thank you mate
Glad to here it's sorted out thank you pal 👍
I’ve mainly ridden 600cc Kawasaki sport bikes and this will be the first time owning a Yamaha, picking up the same model as yours, I find it very impressive these bikes come with the feature to adjust fuel and torque, most bikes don’t even have this
We sold this bike about a year ago and we have been talking about it today ... very impressed with it and I may build another 👍
@@PXCBIKES gonna pick it up a few hours from now and I’m keen to feel how the torque and power is, I heard a few people complaining about the clunky gearbox but personally I love a clunky box, gives a high quality race bike feel, I plan to do a cafe racer style build, I don’t particularly like the OEM headlight it comes with so will go with halo round headlight mod
Yeh I don't like the modern bike lights that look like jewelry...some are OK but a round headlight gives it more character... ours did not have a clunky gearbox it was all smooth
I went from c1 -2/c2 2 up to c1 8/c2 12 and honesty the difference is insane. I cant believe i waited 4 years to give it a go, it feel like a completely different bike.
Great man... well have fun with it and ride safe 🫡
works on s1 and s2
Here you go 3 parameters:
-7 +10
+8 +12 summer mode
on few models i find that they are -7 +30
aaand you can go 00 and try all of that on dyno for real result and while driving.
Legendo imam fz6 s1 i k&n, kakva bi podesavanja preporucio, posto vidim da se razumijes ?
Pratim @@Energym25
Just bought a fz6 s1 yesterday with Laser Xtrem exhaust.
Rides well but gaz smells burnt oil a lot!!
I'll try it and go for a ride this morning thanks bro!
I'm like c1 -22 and c2 -5 and smells so much burnt gas!
What should I do on my fz6? Help 😢
Hello I am sorry but there is only so much I can advise with messaging I do try to tell people in the description of this video that just try my fuel settings on your bike and see if this improves the performance.
Your problem most likely will not be related to the air fuel mixture you could have bad spark plugs or a faulty ignition system it's something I can't help you with and would need to go to a motorcycle repair shop.
Sorry hope this helps
Lean or rich mixture of gasoline and air
In this article we will tell you what a lean or rich mixture of gasoline and air is. What proportions are optimal for engine operation?
A mixture in which 1 kg of gasoline contains 15 kg of air (with a standard oxygen content) is usually called normal. If the engine is running, its power is quite high with good efficiency.
Let's reduce the air intake to 12.5-13 kg. The mixture will be enriched (with gasoline) and will become powerful, because, burning in the cylinders most quickly, it creates maximum pressure on the pistons, which means high power. True, efficiency deteriorates by 15-20%.
Of course, thank you very much for the video, it makes me think.
Just browsing and came across this so thought I'd check mine out. C1 = -10 and C2 = +15. changed it to your settings and will go for a ride 😁
Cool let us know what difference it makes mine was way below yours
@@PXCBIKES I broke down and needed recovery! Corroded wire in fuel pump relay connector. All fixed and went back out and there is a noticeable difference bottom end and smoother idle. My scorpion exhaust pops a bit now too
Does it pop on deceleration?
@@PXCBIKES yes on deceleration once warm
If it starts popping when the RPM's reach 2000 then then you could try backing off the mixture slightly... But only if the popping is severe... Its fuel igniting in the exhaust once the temperature of the exhaust it up... Is yours a full system or just a silencer change
Done this to mine, was -27 -11 from factory, got it up to -10 5, with the same exhaust as in the video (no cat). Definitly notice it pulls a bit better, it's way smoother on very low rpms and fixed a bit of my rough idle problem(cuz of no cat). Only downside (to me) is it doesn't pop and bang as often and as loud as before, still does a bit, but not the the same extent as before. Fuel mileage seems to be the same, can't really notice a difference unless i go to crazy numbers like 5 15 or something like that.
ps:crazy numbers to my bike, as going from -27 to 5 its a lot, may not be crazy for some other bikes going for 5 on C1
-27 - 11😮 ouch that's lean thats way lean..... Its probably set like that for emission laws.... Mine ran like crap on the low rpm and didn't idle right either I also had two ruined spark plugs from cylinder 2.. 3..
Learning slow, slow throttle control, and start from there is always a winner!
I tried 8 and 12 coming from 0 and 0 on my 2007 S2, but I got stalls pulling away at ever other traffic light. Now running 4 and 8 and it runs fine. Not feeling noticeable power, but it runs noticeably cooler.
It shouldn't stall at all you may have a problem with something else there 😬
My both settings were set on c1 0 and c2 0 too. Tried c1 4 and c2 8. It seems bit snappier. I have aftermarket exhaust so it was more lean i think.
Try making sticheometry 11.5 sports mode.
Hi, just out of curiosity, I went to look at the settings of my 2006 FZ 6. My settings are C1: -11 and C2: -2. The exhaust system is stock, but the catalyst is cut out, and the backpack always stank of exhaust fumes, especially for the passenger.
Today I set the settings C1: +8 and C2: +12, and it seemed to me that the stench was gone. I'll keep watching, thanks for the video!
Awsome... If the Cat has been removed then it may smell more but... - C1 and two would make it run lean... So exhaust temps will be higher... + is richer but it may be balanced then now 👍
@@PXCBIKES Let's see how fuel consumption increases, I noticed from the acceleration dynamics that there is an increase in power :)
Power is more important than fuel 💪⛽😁🙏
are you satisfied for this c1 +8 and c2 +12?
I try this settings. With Stock Exhaust nothing With GPR Exhaust poppig and backfire Sounds. But that is normal ( aftermarket Exhaust) or?
Thank you❤
Hey I bought an used fz6 fazer rj07
Everything stock
The owner before set it to to C1 -6 and C2 + 15
Or ist this the preset? I rode the bike for about 1.000km and everything seemed fine(first bike)
I just put it to C1 3 and C2 6
What do you think should I do in this situation or what is with his preset?
OK so if the bike runs fine then just leave it as it is.. this video is just to illustrate how you can change your settings for better performance. If there is no problem then don't change it
Hello.
I have an 09 Fz6 S2 and, after watching your video, I thought I'd take a a look at my settings out of curiosity. I've no idea if they've already been adjusted by the previous owner, I suspect not, so I'll refer to them as stock.
Being the S2, the on-screen displayed info differs slightly to the S1, but the button combination procedure works exactly the same.
Stock CO: 1 - 0 / CO: 2 - 4
So I've upped them to 8 and 12 respectively.
A short ride certainly didn't produce any adverse effects.
I owned an Mt 09, and once read Yamaha set them lean to meet with emissions regulations, resulting in poor low end flueing and a snatchy on/off throttle. I had it remapped at great expense, which made it loads better. But I now wonder if this low rpm adjustment, would have done the same, that's if the same feature was built in.
The recommended 8 and 12 figures are fine, but I think greater emphasis must be made that your viewers should not jump straight to those settings if, the existing settings are too far away in the negative range. I had to read all the comments twice, to realise that.
Having said that, I commend your informative video as an excellent tutorial 🏴👍👍👍🏴.
Ride safe my friend.
Yeh it's just a figure that I tried for my bike but I encourage people to try it as a base setting bit there are loads more factors that would effect the fueling... Engine milage.. Condition of the valve clearances... Gearing would make a difference... And exhaust system also because mine was set below - 20 it made a massive difference
Maybe I don’t understand something, why you give more fuel to some cylinders and less to others.
More fuel will also make a cylinder burn cooler... more air would make a cylinder burn hotter.. so with the middle two cylinders being the hottest part of the engine , more fuel is added to allow them to.burn cooler
Thank you so much for the information. I'm riding 2006 fz6-n s1 and I think my bike stink very much and consumes higher amount of fuel than expected. Does lowering both c1 and c2 would make my bike better? I'm also curious of the factory settings of the values.
Which setting does least harm to the environment? I got a used fz6 recently but stinks a lot. And I want to save fuel. My mpg is around 25(around 10 km/litre). What should I do with the settings?
my current setting is -5, 11 respectively.
Well 5/11 is leaner than mine but if you have high fuel consumption it can be due to many things..... Spark plugs..... Airfilter..... Coils... Valve clearances.... And also AF ratio.... Try C1 +8 and C2 +11 but give the bike a service also how many miles or kilometres has the bike got?
Nice video. What would you think this bike would perform like with a restrictor kit installed (as a throttle stop) for an A2 license?
I wouldn't know 😬 but with standard AF settings they don't have much bottom end torque... With my settings it pulls away loads better
Thanks. Mine was C1 -9 and C2 9. Took yours. Muuuuuuuch better.
Aaawwwwsome 🙌 that's what I like to hear.... Does it wheelie out of corners 😀... Mine did
Not tested yet. But I`m sure it would. Acceleration from below is much better.
Much better response at the start.
I don't usually comment much. But that deserves a really good comment.
Recommendation for everyone
Just did this on my 63k km Yamaha fz6.. Huge improvment on low end power bellow 7k rpm. What are your tips in Sproket sizes i think to upgrade for more low end power, as area where I live has strict speed limit lot of Radars so at least I have more fun getting to the limit.
Thank you that's great to hear... as for the gearing also consider the tyres ...Michelin road 5 or 6 was the best tyre for this bike it helped with the suspension as soft tyres made it slightly sloppy on hard steering..and I went with sixe 180/55 also.
The sprockets on mine were 16 front and 46 rear this would depend on what type of roads you ride if there are long bends and straights or tight corners and short straights ... for tight bends I would just try going to a 15t front first and maybe a 44 rear
@@PXCBIKES thank you. Was considering Michelin as well, as I need new tires anyway but since you recomend it I go directly with Michelin road 6. Regarding gearing will check I was thinking +3 tooth on the back
Yeh with the sprockets it all depends on the roads you ride on but dropping the front one tooth will make the bike pick up quicker and and shorten the rev range but it's all about how you ride it... But with it being a 600 you don't want it to be revving out on highways then burning all your fuel... Mine was stock sprockets snd it seemed fine for me here
Little update after 1000 km bikes feels incredable 😁😁😁 thank you very much once again
That's super 👌 glad to hear it if you are in instagram post a video and tag me in 🙌
I’ve had my 2009 s2 for just about a year now, over the winter if the temp is below 40 the bike starts perfectly. Now that’s it’s warm again I have to hold throttle open sometimes to get the bike to start. I’ll check the trim setting but do you think starting could be improved with these settings? As far as I can tell everything is stock
Hello, Thank you for watching the video.
This problem could be many factors, but the most common are a faulty regulator rectifier. This eould also gives a weak battery symptom. A hot start problem can mean the fuel mixture is too rich .. and needs to be leaner.
On old carburettor bikes, there used to be a choke lever to enrich the fuel mixture with a cold engine. And a hot start lever to lean out the engine when it is hot.
But also, your problem may be with the valve clearances or a faulty air temperature sensor.
hi, my 2006 yamaha fz6 s1 was c1:-2 c2:+15, now that I've put c1:+8 c2:12 what will change? does it go a little louder at bass? consume less or more?
Hi, I bought my Fz6 second hand. The previous owner had a full bore muffler installed. I installed the original muffler. The previous owner's settings are C1 = 0 C2 = 62. At this point, in neutral gear, the gasoline smells strongly and the engine runs unevenly. Should I change the settings to C1 = 0 and C2 = 0? How does changing settings affect throttle synchronization? Will I have to set it after changing the parameter? Thank you very much for your answer :)
Prześlij opinięHi, I bought my Fz6 second hand. The previous owner had a full bore muffler installed. I installed the original muffler. The previous owner's settings are C1 = 0 C2 = 62. At this point, in neutral gear, the gasoline smells strongly and the engine runs unevenly. Should I change the settings to C1 = 0 and C2 = 0? How does changing settings affect throttle synchronization? Will I have to set it after changing the parameter? Thank you very much for your answer :)
Hi the settings should state + or - C1 -0 or C1+0 etc.. I just say try my settings and see how the bike feels... it will not effect throttle sync this is just Air fuel ratio from idle to 1/4 throttle
@@PXCBIKESThanks for the advice 💪💪💪 After my mechanic's persuasion, I set C1 = 0 C2 = 6. The motorcycle runs smoother and there is no gasoline smell. The idle speed also increased from 970rpm to 1200rpm. When the weather improves, I will test your settings and let you know the results 👍
That's great 👍 but also lay attention to the settings as there is a + and a ‐ . Not just = + is more fuel and - is less fuel it should be in the + side
Bit late to this party i know, i have now moved onto a fazer8. My question is would these adjustments still work on the fazer 8?
Thanks.
Oh I am not sure... but if it has the same dash setup then probably yes ... you could try and enter the settings as I did to see
@@PXCBIKES I'll have a go. Thanks.
Update. Yes, it works on the fazer8.
Briliant 🤙
Hi! I have a 2004 Fz6. With original exhaust. What setting do you recommend? Thank you for your answer!
Hi Tibor... There is no real setting it all depends on what your settings are. And just adjust little by little. maybe try Co1 =+5 and Co2 =+7 but remember what your original settings are
Thanks for the reply. I'll take a look tomorrow and try the setup.
What your recommendation for 2008 s2 , with bmc air filter ,decat, slip on? Thank you!
Oh with a decat and filter you may require a total remap on dyno... But just try C12 and C214.... Then see how it runs if you get any decel backfire then it will require a remap as there will be fuel burning in the exhaust
Got a 06 fz6 got a straight no muffler no cat. Went up 50 is that alright? Pretty much got rid of pops but is that too much ? What the max you think it should be adjusted for straight pipes?
Oh do you mean all cylinders are on +50? That is quite high.. Very rich if you have full system then you will need a remap... The fuel trim adjustment on the dash only controls the idle to around 4000rpm...
Good job 🎉
Thank you 👍👍
I've got 2005 fz6 and got some problems starting from 1st gear either the bike was turning off or it was loosing power until 3000 rpm. Set it at c1 8 and c2 12 and it's perfect thank you but what about economy, it burns more fuel than regular values now, I quess.
Thank you for the feedback... I wouldn't worry about fuel economy it won't use much its only a minor change.. But if the bike feels good then that's better 👍 also make sure the spark plugs and air filter are changed should be fine 👍
Just checked mine and it was +20 on both. Ill try +8 and +12 and see how it feels. Stock pipe atm
It's wired how everyones bike is different +20 is rich
@@PXCBIKES Yeah! +8 +12 feels much smoother on lower rpm. Thanks for this video!
No problem at all pal 👍
What do you recommend for me?
Akrapoveric slip on exhaust, 2007 model FZ600N.
Haven’t Checked my settings at this moment but I guess it is at factory settings.
Akrapovic make great exhausts 👍.... The re is no recommended settings but you can try mine and adjust from there... To get a true optimised setting it will require an o2 analyser.. But the problem is most garages set up the o2 readings at idle only and not for ride performance...
So try my settings 👍
Does it work on fz6 s2 2008 ??
Give it a try... it should work on any with this same instrument cluster
I’m currently at C1 of +2 and C2 of -1 on a stock exhaust with K&N filter. Is it worth changing?
It's just a matter of trying my settings to see if there are improvements 👍
Hiya ive had my 2006 fazer for a month now juat checked mine and c1 is -9 and c2 is +18? What wpuld you sugest i change it too? Thank you 👍
Hi it does seem out of balance - is lean and + is rich.... but its about trying my settings and see how the bike performs you may have to adjust the idle after
@@PXCBIKES Yes it does seem a little flat pulling off etc so il try your settings today and go from there 👍 Thank you.
Hi. My fz6 has developed a misfire. Put new plugs in, iridium, still there. Could it be these settings as i cant remember if it had it before i change the settings. Or what settinfs could i try? Fz6 06. Great vid. And intro:-)
Hi where did you get your headlight? thanks
Ebay ( 7" LED MOTORCYCLE HEALIGHT ) 👍
Hi i have tdm 900 with exhausts and c1 13 c2 17 its not warning good
I need help
Read the video description you will find your answer 👍
Hello on my bike is c1:5 and c2:5 i need to change something? Than you Yamaha Fazer FZ6S 2006
Hello... 👋.. No you don't have to change it... Its just make the improvement to see if your bike rides better
I have a yamaha fz6s 2006 with a arrow exhoust. what do you recomend?
Ho sorry I get asked all the time I wouldn't know... its just try my settings if you have a problem
@@PXCBIKES my was se to c1: -10 c2: 10
hello my friend i did what you say c1+8 c2+12 has some difference in the high i have the fz6 2004 the will you suggest me to put better the original which is c1 c2 i don't wear exhaust everything is from is absolutely his mother that he wears thanks
That's super... I feel that C1+12 and C2+8 is the setting that most people find the best..
But you can try any setting just don't go too high in the + .. or the engine will run too rich👍
Thank you my friend the c1+8 c2+12 yes I can't say three better but I would like to set it up again in the factory settings of the original do you know?
I don't know the factory settings as every bike seems to be different but they are mostly C1-15 and C2-10 mine was C1-20 and C2-18
They run lean from the factory to comply with emissions laws etc but running the bikes lean is not good
Hi, I make C1 5 and C2 5 what you think,it's that okay?
Hi it all depends on how the bike feels but always make C2 richer so if C1 is +5 then C2 +7 or 8
Hey, I have 2005 fz6 with around 55 000 Kms. Services done on time. My bike had C1 -1 and C2 +14. I changed silencers about 300 km ago. I tried all the following setups: +5/+8, +8/+12, +10/+13 and +11/+14 and the richer the mix for c1 went, the more exhaust were popping. I left the setup as they were (-1/+14) but the popping didnt disappear and im quite sure it didnt pop before. And if I can remember right, the popping started right after acceleration (+2500 rpm, maybe somewhere around 7000rpm). Do you have any idea why exhaust are now popping despite the setup are same as before? Any suggestion should I go leaner with c2 or richer with c1 or change both? Thanks
This adjustment should only mKe a effect from idle to 2000rpm... With 55000kms it would need a valve clearance check... If the bike was running lean then you would get exhaust popping because the exhaust would be hot and igniting the fuel...
With an aftermarket exhaust fitted there will be a nead for fuel adjustment... Have you changed the spark plugs?
@@PXCBIKES A valve clearence check is done at 45000km. Spark plugs replaced at 50 000. But the thing is that before it didnt pop, but now it does, even the setup is the same. But maybe I should change the spark plugs and set the mixture richer? What do you think? Actually I thought it will pop because there is too much fuel, so it cant burn all of it and a hot exhaust will burn the rest?
It would need a Co test at a shop to see what is going on with it... Some bikes do pop but if it pops and bangs then it needs to be set on a dyno it just maybe something else and not to do with the fuel trim... If it pops all the way down from full throttle then stops around 2000rpm then it's not the Co trim adjustment
Mine was c1=0 c2=12
Should the c2 always be +4 richer?
Yes and no .... I don't have an O2 analyser or a dyno but I work on the basis of carb jetting. It shouldn't be any less and usually +5more but the C2 setting is the fueling for the middle cylinders 2 &3 so due to being in the middle they will run hotter than cylinders 1 & 4 so by having them run richer they will burn cooler.. but having them too rich will cause an imbalance in the whole combustion
This sounds really interesting. How do I know how much each setting is affecting my motor/bike?
Well ideally it would need to be hooked up to an o2 sensor but running it lean would eventually cause harm.... Running it too rich wouldn't it would ruin your plugs first.... But balancing it out would just be fine.... I wouldn't go over the settings I have applied I an experienced in carburettor tuning and listening to an engines idle smell and performance to judge if it is good or not... FI is no different to carb tuning except there is no jetting its just SOFTWERE values.. Check your settings and just alter them in stages of 5.... And see how it performes you can pull over whilst riding and make the changes its that simple.... But every engine will require different FI values taking into consideration the climate.... Exhaust... Engine wear etc so perhaps set the C1 to 5 and thebC2 to 10 if it feels better then 👍
mine is an 05 fz6 and when i get to the diag screen select doesn’t do anything.
Oh that's odd have you tried the reset button.... It should really move from diag to Co that's confusing?
@@PXCBIKES i think the US model needs a wire grounded to acess the co mode unfortunately
Oh really i didn't know about this but I am sure it's easy to figure out
Yes the us model has a wire that needs to be grounded to get into these settings. Be careful. Any chances should be checked with a dyno run to check AFR to make sure its not to rich/lean.
Remember mates "Lean is mean and hot"
@@7795Dakota OK now that's some new information. Any idea what wire needs to be grounded?
Mine was c1 -13 and c2 -6 so 7 points difference. I think it could be good to keep that seven point difference? So I will start at c1 4 and c2 11...
Cool well let us know how you get on 👍 you can always change it at anytime... Even pull over when out riding and change it
Now I tested it only 10 units richer than original and the engine runs better. Slightly optimized torque and throttle response. The gap between 6000 and 8000 rpm is hardly noticeable. Original was c1 -13 now c1 -3 and c2 -6 now 4. Thanks for the Video.
Brilliant brilliant that's great enjoy it more pal
Got an open aftermarket exhaust on fz6 s2 '08, which c1 c2 settings would you recommend for it? Thx in advance
Hello... It all depends on how your bike feels.. If the bike feels fine then don't change anything... This is better for bikes with a stock lean setup.. You can try my settings but with an open exhaust I wouldn't recommend running it too rich or you will have popping on deceleration
hello . i have fz6 2005 leovince exhaust without calayst . what setting do you recommend? there is a dedicated leovince setting Thanks . i have K&n sprt air filter
Oh with a full system I would have this dyno tuned ...you could play with the adjustment as per video to see the effect ...you can always change the settings but thus adjustment does not cover the whole rev range
i have c1 = -11 and c2 +4
Oh ..OK try c1 +11 and c2 + 13
@@PXCBIKES hello, I tried it, it has much better torque at low revs, but I am not satisfied with the balancing of the engine when returning to idle in gear.. I experience a shaking.. how could I adjust the motorcycle to be balanced between 1100 and 1500 revs
It will nead the throttle bodies balancing g and probably a dyno set up because of the exhaust... The C1 and C2 tuning only effects the Rpm from idle to 2500rpm
My 2008 had both C1 and C2 at 0. So I set them both the +8. Does that sound about right?
C2 +12 always run C2 slightly richer as cylinders 2 & 3 run hotter
@@PXCBIKES ok will do. Thanks.
I get into diag mode and press select and nothing happens
Oh I wouldn't know why that is...😳
What factory setup should be? Mine c1 is -30 and c2 -7 and I think this is not good.
Wow that is not good at all 😮 i would start with C1+5 and C2+8 then see how it performes.... Do you have standard exhaust system?
@@PXCBIKES I just bought the bike didn't ride it at all. For me something is not good original exhaust. Maybe put them in 0 for both?
@@user-pg1qk7rf3e yes you can go 0.0 the C2 is cylinders 2 and 3 in the centre.... They are set to run richer so this keeps them cooler as they have the most heat being in the middle...
So just make sure that C2 is around +3 over you can always test the bike and make changes anytime even at the side of the road
@@PXCBIKES Thank you very much for the advice 🙏. I'm going to set c1 to 0 and c2 to +3 for now.
@@PXCBIKES Just made the corrections.
C1 is zero
C2 is +3
Today I'm going to take it for a ride!
I've got a 05 with scorpion end can's on standard air filter still got the cat on, do you know the settings?.
I wouldn't know its trial and error as every bike seems to have different settings... Its best just to check yours and adjust it in increments its more or a fuel trim... That controls the throttle response from idle to around 3000rpm
Got my factory settings c1 = 0 and c2 =0 ...fz6 s2 2008 ... What numbers to put to get some power and greater engine work ? thanks
C1 +10 and C2 +13 thi only controls the lower rpm range and throttle response IT will increase torque but not top end mapping ....but overall if the low rpm is tuned like thus then the whole rpm range will be better
@@PXCBIKES thank u ! I am gonna try it tomorrow if not raining :D
Putting this numbers +10 and +13 ...is that mean more fuel consume ? thanks
It means mor torque.... And more torque is good 💪.... It shouldn't have any difference as this only effects the lower rpm... So you will. Mostly be constant on the higher rpm range
@@georgilukanov3759 yes, it consumes more fuel.
Oh didn't notice with mine.... Its more fun though
Hey so when I enter the diagnostic mode when I press select it doesn’t bring up CO, nothing happens no matter how long I hold it or how many times I press it. same thing with the reset button, but if I hold them both down again while in diagnostic mode it brings up a bunch of other codes to cycle through “d01-100” and in turn cycling through those sometimes the fuel pump will active. Any idea why my Co isn’t popping up/ what any of these other selections are?
Oh is yours a US model ? I think the C0 settings were locked out on the US models but there is a way around it by messing with the ground cable to the ecu... I can't remember how to do it .. but the D01 is the throttle position sensor and the rest is just function testing the system
@@PXCBIKES Yeah it is, that sucks😂I’ll try and look something up with that ground cable you were talking about. Thanks
@@PFaix I think someone mentioned it in the comments somewhere
what kind of visor is that ?
Hello Wali check the description in the part one Fazer build video
czcams.com/video/yFRwfaQPaRw/video.html
Doing that we increase the horse power???? Or only torque?
Both... 👍
@@PXCBIKES Nice, time to put a K&N filter and do that trick. Thank you dude.
Just don't go too high with the numbers.... But you can adjust this whilst out riding when you come to a stop
@@PXCBIKES ill put your numbers, people seems very happy in the comment section. Thank you
Is this working on s2 as well or not?
I don't know. it's just to try the buttons and see if it activates the mode. If it has the same instruments, then then it's possible
Us model fz6 2008, is there a different way to access co mode? Your method doesnt result in diag mode changing to co mode
Yes, I heard this. I think you have to ground a connector that's on the bike or something to access it. I can't remember how to do it
This doesnt require to ground the unused pin fron the 6 pin socket under the tank?
No it doesn't require any grounding of wires.... Just switch on ignition and carry out the change
@@PXCBIKES yep ive read in the forums 600riders some US spec fz is required to have a grounding kit to adjust CO. Im facing a different kind of problem right now hopefully the new R/R will resolve the issue, ride safe!
If you have the time you can check it out power cuts at 7k rpm
Oh has that got a limiter set does it rev higher with gentle throttle not hard?
@@PXCBIKES i actually dont know, i just bought the bike and rebuilt it, it might be a problem with charging system
It's not a charging fault it could be TPS your engine light eluminates... If you enter diagnostic mode like changing the Co you can check for fault codes.... So switch of the engine stop.... Hold down sel +res and switch on ignition..... Then keep holding them until "diag" appears... Then hold down res+sel until "do1" appears..... Then press select until you see D60:00 then hold down sel+res to see any saved error codes.... Alternatively when you see d01 hold down sel+res and this will diagnose the TPS.... The TPS value with throttle closed should be around 12 to 20 and fully open throttle it should be around 90 to 106.... You can operate th ethrottle at this stage with the engine off... If the values are different then loosen the retaining bolts that hold the TPS then turn it gently counter clockwise or clockwise to see the values stop around 12 to 20.... You may have a faulty TPS... You can also start the engine with the TPS loose but hold it and gently turn it only 0.5mm at a time then rev the bike to see if there is a difference.... There may be another error code other than this indicating something else but I this this is the behaviour of a faulty or out of sync TPS
How much more torque does it give you tho? 64NM to what? 70nm?
Hello I wouldn't know the figures as I have not had this on a dyno but its just the throttle response and stronger torque through out the rpm range the bike was flat before and gutless with no torque at all but now instantly it will pop wheelies out of corners
is it the same engine as in the 2014 xj6? and will this work the same way?
I am not 100% sure but this diagnostics mode should work on most yamaha around the same year
@@PXCBIKES ok so i tried it and its the same screen setup. Bike runs alot cooler now that i bumped everything up. Thanks
That's fantastic brilliant 👏👏
@@mala7794 do u see any improvement in petrol consumption? Have 2012 xj6 and doing only around 180kms on fukl tank.
@@waterfordMARTIN if i drive VERY nicley i can do 330km before i run out.
Hey! What about cylinder 3 and 4? Shall they be +8 +12 as well?
C1 are outer cylinders (1+4) and C2 are inner cylinders (2+3). That's already mentioned in the video.
Yep 👍
Did your fuel consumption increase or decrease after the new setting +8, +12? I'm riding the S2 model, does the same setting work similarly to both S1 and S2 models?
I haven't noticed any difference in fuel consumption... For the s2 I believe it does yes after holding the reset and select the first option is F1 diagnostics but not gone through the options on the S2
@@PXCBIKES just tried to play with the CO setting. Mine was originally CO1 : 24 CO2: 24. I changed it to 8: 13. My ride has a leovince Evo 1 slip ons and decat link pipe. It sounds different at idle..and exhaust smells less rich than the original settings
😮 Wow so all cylinders were running at +24 😣 ouch.... Is the throttle response smoother when you pull away?
@@PXCBIKES honestly can't feel much of a difference with the new settings. there is better low range rpm torque for sure... but no change at above 4k rpm ...There is less tendency to backfire when decelerating hard. The exhaust popping sound. Feels smoother during hard deceleration, engine braking. Just feel a slight increase in engine temperature . I realize the max -/+ settings are -128/+126 for both CO1 and CO2
Yes that's right it won't effect the high rpm it's just bottom end should be smoother with more torque what's the milage if your bike
I have an 06 FZ6N
It was set at C1 8, C2 12,
Changed to C1 10, C2 14
Straight thru exhaust with akrapovic also a K&N filter
Just got the bike will report after ride, thanks heaps. 😊
Hello Jason it is best if you ride the bike first to see how it is... This setting has improved many fazer's but mostly the ones that are running too lean...
So ive heard the fz6 uses a detuned r6 engine, can it be tuned to run like an r6??
Thanks
I believe it is a toned down R6 motor and the frame it similar too but I don't know what the difference is
I have a FZ6n 2004 mine was -24 and -6.Can somebody please tell
me what are the deafult factory settings for europe couse my bike is stock 100% and i just want a reliable ride dont want to mess it.
That is not a good setting it isn't balanced you can easily just stop and change the settings at any time... But try my settings see how it feels but it won't mess up the bike
@@PXCBIKES i see u run a aftermarket exhaust mine is all stock so what will u recommend as a reference value?
Try c1+5 and c2+9 see how it feels if you get backfire and popping then drop down to c1-9and c2-2
TNX A LOT FOR THE ADVICE BRO
No problem 👍
Hello, mine 2006 FZ6 had C1 +6 and C2 +4 , should i leave C1 at +6 and increase C2 at +10 or even more?
The bike has K&N air filter and stock exhaust.
Thanks
I would leave it... With stock exhaust.. You can try my settings and always change back at any time.. You just don't want to go into the minus - or it will be running lean
@@PXCBIKES Thanks for quick reply.You have confused me now 😂😂😂….I thought that C2 value schould me bigger than C1 , or i didnt unterstand good?
Thanks again
Ah yes sorry put C2 to +7 it should be richer
@@PXCBIKES I tried +10, it pulls definatelly better at low rpm.
More power means more fun 💪
does not work on usa bikes
Oh no 🙁 you can still go get it dyno tuned somwere
Why doesn't it man? there are the same bike!, USA, did get the 75bhp version.. we didn't get that in the UK. that has nothing to do with it though... so it should work!
@@Paulie1978100 i tried it on mine, what do you mean should. Did you try it?
@@Paulie1978100 no c option is visible. We only have diag mode in the us. So if you cant even get to that screen you cant change it.
If I’ll tell you there are a way to do it and get rid of that limitation …
Any suggestions for a 06 fz6?
Oh it's all about trial and test you first need to look at your settings... Wich if standard will be in the minus.
Then just start with c1+5 and C2+8 then see hou the bike performs if you have slip on silencers then perhaps go a little further but I wouldn't go any further than 15 on both or the bike will stink
@@PXCBIKES thanks I'll be giving it a shot
@@PXCBIKES can you tell me what is default setting? I was not satisfied with richer setup because it was eating fuel and I didnt get better performance.
I have no idea they all seem to be different but more towards the lean side so maybe c1-11 and c2-8
@@PXCBIKES I left inner on 0 and out on 7 .. went for a ride and it was pulling nice and sound was ok again. So Ill be testing if it is ok.
Will it work on fzr6
You have to try it ... if the instrument cluster is the same then yes
Did u end up doing something?
Mine was c1 on 15 and c2 on 14
Why would that be?
Total standard setup
Now changed to your setings c1 8 c2 15
Is it -c1 and c2 or +c1 and c2 ... if the bike runs fine then leave it where it is or try my settings you can just revert back
@@PXCBIKES c1 +15 and c2 +14
Is it okay to adjust those settings on factory exhaust bike?
It depends on how the bike feels it wouldn't hurt to go a little richer than the stock settings but take a look at yours first and just go richer +5 at a time on C1 and C2.... This only affects the bottom end of the Rpm so it will give it better throttle response.....
I have custom silencers and the settings I used are perfect it dosent smell and it performers much better
@@PXCBIKES Just checked the settings, it was 10/10 both.What do you think about it should i try to change it?
Is that - 10/-10?.... If so You could try C1 =0 and C2 =5 see how it fires up from cold... And how the throttle responds then see how it fires up when hot if its good then leave it there..... But mine is a little richer due to the exhaust......
@@PXCBIKES it's not - it's +
@@PXCBIKES both +
Seems like you’re still active in these comments. What are CO adjustment suggestions for a 08 fz6 with both slip ons and a straight midpipe convert?
(Dealing with a lopey idle)
Hi yes thanks for watching 👍 I do try to respond to everyone... But its just try my settings and work from there.. If you have a rough idle it could be many factors first... Like valve clearances, spark plugs, battery... Throttle body balance... Etc but it could also be a running lean so try my settings first 👍
Olá, tudo bem?
Tenho uma fz6 2008/2009 com escapamento aberto, velas de iridium e filtro k&n, quais configuração usar para obter “estralos ou pipocos” na reduzidas??
Um abraço BR 🇧🇷