How To Remove Snipe | All The Tips And Tricks Plus a Simple Jig
Vložit
- čas přidán 14. 02. 2023
- How To Remove Snipe | All The Tips And Tricks Plus a Simple Jig
In this video I will show you all the most common used methods to remove snipe while using your thickness planer. Plus at the end I will show you a simple jig that solved the issue for me and its super easy to use.
All my tools, woodworking accessories and video making kit is now in one place for you to check out. These are Amazon affiliate links. With a purchase through this link, you get an awesome tool and you will support my channel without spending a penny more. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases, thank you for your support!
Link to Amazon is just below! Thanks!
Tools I use and recommend:
www.amazon.co.uk/shop/casualdiy
Shop on Banggood - www.banggood.com/custlink/DmK...
You can now support my channel via Patreon. If you feel my content adds value for you or its entertaining then help me continue to do so.
Any donations via Patreon are so much appreciated, you can find out more here: / casualdiy Thanks!
You can support my channel by dropping some change in the Casual DIY Tip Box. Thanks for your support!
www.paypal.me/TomaszFranczyk
You can find me on:
Instagram - / casualdiy
Twitter - / casualdiy
Facebook - / casualdiy
Etsy - www.etsy.com/uk/shop/CasualDe...
Web page - www.casualdiy.com
Email - casualdiyuk@gmail.com
#casualdiy #woodworking #howto
DISCLAIMER
My videos are for entertaining purposes only, your safety is your responsibility. Please do not follow my actions if you find them unsafe. - Jak na to + styl
Thanks Tomasz 🙏🏾. I appreciate this reel and shall be making a jig when I next use my thicknesser.
Your teaching style is very clear and simple- exactly what I need.
I shall have a good dig through your others to see what gems you have.
CZcams at its best.
Glad you liked the video 😄👍
There's few of those on my channel
I just got an older planer restored enough to be usable. I found out right away that the infeed outfeed tables on the machine and the technique used is the difference between serious project ruining snipe or flat boarss! I got some perfect snipe free boards but it is NOT easy to perfeftly replicate the technique every single time. You are the second source I have seen to build a feed jig like this. So thats next for me! Thank you!
It's definitely a good jig to have around
Was talking bout this problem the other day with a friend.... Them boom... of course "THEY" were listening and as I was scrolling along ....your video came across with wut I needed to see...click on and now you have another subscriber ..head slapper ...simple jig to a big problem...thanx for making me feel stupid.. can't wait to feel stupid again watching your channel! 👍 Keep up the good work!
Hehe welcome aboard 👍
Very entertaining information, stay warm, safe, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia
Excellent work, Tomasz! Thanks for all the tips! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thank you for watching my friend 👍😁
Great tip Tomas! Thanks
Thank you for watching 👍
Solid advice right there. I like the idea of using the jig. Cheers mate 👍😎🇦🇺
Thanks mate
Thanks for your excellent synopsis on the subject of snipe. I agree that infeed and outfeed tables are a major issue . Solution of jig is a good answer as well as lifting up alightly at the beginning and 😂end of the tables really helps!
Thanks for watching 👍
Another gem Tomaz, thanks as always for making a helpful video, it's just got to be worth a try mate 5*
Thank you 😁👍
Excellent tip Tom I use the slight lift at the end method 👍
Thank you kindly for watching 👍
A great help - Thanks
You're welcome!
Great vid Tomas thanks for sharing
Thank you for watching 👍
i have used the extended sled for years. with sharp blades, quality wood and very shallow cuts you can go to about 2.5mm
This is a great tip, I’ve been plagued by this. Can’t wait to try it.
Thank you for watching 👍
Great idea!
Thank you for watching
Lots of timber laying around. I sense a big project coming up :). Thanks for the video as ever.
Hehe kids playground, compost bins, trellises, outside fire wood storage, planter boxes and few others so yes I'll be busy 😅
Brilliant 👍
Thank you
well done. I think I'll try this.
Worth trying 👍
Enjoyed watching the video Tomasz. Tony
Thank you kindly mate 👍
Very informative video Tomasz ... on cheaper machines the infeed/outfeed tables are definitely rubbish, but your simple addition of a continuous bed should mean even a cheap planer should work a lot better 👍
Well it works I'm my case, not sure about other machines but it's simple enough and cheap to give it a go and see if it works 👍
Hello Sir, just short addition to your solution. To be clear, I'm not opposing your solution and the next is not my observation/discovery (somebody else provided it). So, as you explained when the front roller is off the wood can rise. However, if you slightly (fraction of a mm) rise the outfeed table than the problem with good chance of success, can be avoided too because the outfeed table will try to push the wood against the bed. As well, it is important to lock the cutting head vertical movement - that is another reason we observe snipes, the cutting head can "twist/drop" when one of the rollers is not engaged. At least it works for me (having the same machine). Respect!
Yes I'm aware of that however in my case I wasn't successful with it as the table flexes too much and I end up with very similar result.
THANK YOU very much . I have not packed out my new planer yet, but I have read alot about snipes and how to fix it.....your video has been the best so far ......easy to understand ...simple explanation and demo.....compared to others. My only problem is how to adjust the thickness now since I am loosing for example 1/2 inch. Thank you again !!!!!!
You mean the read out of the scale on the machine? Then just subtract the thickness of your base board from the scale. If you need the whole reach of your planer ie. trying to run through a very wide board then for the first passes just remove the base board until the thickness of your material allows the board to go back it. To be honest I have never maxed height capacity of my planer. What boards are your trying to run through the machine?
@@CasualDIY Thank you for your prompt reply. Very much appreciated ... Just to keep it simple I have a 4inchx4inchx3feet ...long....and lets say I have a 1/2 inch thick board. I assume it should be at least 4.5-5 feet long ? Thank you again !!!!!!!!!!!!
@@mundlkalli4396 I would say foot overhang each side on top of you planer table
Thank you, as a matter of fact I have to do it in mine.
Thank you for watching 👍
Nice instruction for the snipe, and of which many probably don't know as not own a planer as such, but should be aware of especially on hand planes.
I own the Triton TPT125 and have had it for 6 years, with snipe for a few months, until I came across Stumpy Nubs idea and used that to remove it. I adjusted it for my own use.
My own preference lies with a 9mm MRMDF sheet, in a very similar concept to yours, but not only using one stop block on the in feed end; I have another on the out feed end to keep it snug and very tight in movement. These strips are also cut from the same material board.
My thickness scale is also adjusted to reflect that 9mm difference, of which has been relabelled to reflect the material, and only a loss of 9mm to my height. So much easier than trying to calculate as you do it at the time. 👍
Great stuff and worth spending a bit of time to get things sorted.
@@CasualDIY that is true mate..
A little finesse goes a long way 👏
Thank you, Tomasz! I think your emphasis on the flexibility of the usual adjustable/foldable infeed/outfeed tables on most portable planers as the primary problem is correct. That is rarely recognized.
I still use a Delta 22-540 planer I purchased in the 1990's for a little over $200 then that came with steel, removable but fixed tables that clip onto the planer bed on each side. Once precisely shimmed to the exact same height, absolutely NO snipe with just the most minor lift of the wood on entry & exit of the planer. (Still necessary to account for the knives grabbing the wood before the following roller.) My melamine extension, fitting just over those tables and supported by them is therefore just as flat and works beautifully for longer boards.
The result is perfectly planed boards. I added a Wixey gauge though rarely use it. If I ever care to, I can add a Shelix head for $400 or so. Even then, my simple basic planer can be the equivalent of any of the fancy ones going for $900 up nowadays. I wouldn't trade it.
It may be possible to adjust folding tables as exactly but there's no way they can stay as rigid as fixed ones. Unless one needs to carry a planer around, I'd routinely replace them with fixed ones on the planer table.
That's the thing, usually those old classic tools are better that nowadays tech. Shame really but it's all about costs
Is your Dewalt planer from the 1990's, a 2 post or 4 screw post machine? I have a 2 post Delta from Lowes. It was $153 brand new according to the receipt, and I"m highly skeptical that a 2 post machine can ever be made to work without snipe, because of the slop (twisting motion) of the cutter head assembly.
@@starseeddeluxeIt is a Delta 22-540. It has 4 smooth corner posts with 2 screw posts in the middle. I think the best thing about it is sturdy metal in/outfeed tables that sit firmly on the planer table. No hanging, flexing fold-up extensions.
I've found that feeding pieces in at a slight angle helps in a lot of instances for some reason. I try to enter the piece so it meets close to one end of the first roller and exits at the opposite end of the second roller. If you stand behind your planer and visualize entry and exit with your work piece, you can get pretty good at this. If nothing else, you're using the full length of your blades so they don't just wear down in the center. I've also adjusted my outfeed table up at a very slight angle to mimic holding the board up as you demonstrated at around 6:40 in your video. This also seems to help. If you can't completely get rid of your snipe, just make sure it occurs on the side of your piece that will be less visible, say underneath a table for example.
I think everyone will find their own best way of dealing with this. It's just about showing what options are available to tackle the snipe problem
The reason it helps turning the board on an angle is because it provides a gradual release of tension off the rubber rollers. If you suddenly release the tension all at once, it's very unnatural and slams the cutter head assembly downward after the board leaves the first of the 2 main rollers. Think about, the board is suddenly only supported on one rubber roller, which is trying to violently twist the entire cutter head assembly upwards, which then actually pushes the blades down closer to your work piece (the entire carriage is twisting). Machine flexibility is the problem here, and it's a major design flaw of some planers. I think the heavy duty planers probably don't have any flex in the rollers (cutter head carriage). My planer only has 2 screw posts and no lock, so the carriage has enough rocking motion (slop) that there's no way to fix the snipe, unless I turn the boards on an angle.
Never thought of it this way and you're absolutely correct! Thank you for the insight.@@starseeddeluxe
set your infeed and outfeed tables up just a bit.. if you are going to lift your board to take care of snipe.. just tilt your infeed and outfeed tables up .. just a bit
Thanks for the video! I have an old Delta 2 screw post planer, and I think the head itself actually rocks when the board leaves the first roller on it's way out of the machine, because there are only 2 screw posts which can't possibly hold the cutter head assembly perfectly level? I have noticed that adjusting my tables, and also holding the boards on their exit, has absolutely zero effect on the snipe. For these old planers, I think they either belong in the trash, or the scrap wood pieces must be used. Or some form of locking bracket must be inserted near the motor to stop it from rotating (probably not possible).
Don't have experience with those machines unfortunately so can't really suggest anything else.
Tomasz, I seldom see such great videos with such great solution. I was thinking about one thing though: how come the new long plate stay stationary and not move. E.g when an oak piece exits the outfeed part, pushes down the long plane too, so its infeed part shold rise a bit?
Well it's one long board and the forces seem to equalise across the whole length, where most pressure is applied in the middle of the board by the rollers. Whereas without the one board table you essential have three separate tables - infeed, middle part and outfeed.
Thank you Tomasz!
Have you considered mororcycle jack for lifting system?
What's the difference to the car jack ?
@@CasualDIY :) it's a little bit hard to explain it. Car jack is like rhombus and designed to support car in one point. Motorcycle jack looks like double scissors and platform on top. Motorcycle jack designed to support like whole motor and frame together. As for me it probably can be more stable and probably better work as the tool lift?
What I do most of the time when I need several boards with the same thickness is feeding them with an overlap with the same sacrificial piece that goes at the head of the chain and at the very end. And that particular method is used only at the last run before I have almost archived the needed thickness. If the last run is used with minimal material removal, it also helps reducing the snap to the minimum. When it’s minimal, the hand plane will remove it anyways, and I still use my hand plane at the very end as it provides exceptional smoothness in just few strokes compare to significant amount of sanding with paper for the same outcome.
Good process 👍
Invest in a couple of roller supports if you're doing lots of thicknessing.
I'm thinking of making some 😁👍
I'm glueing my stair steps now, and the biggest problem is with the ... oak weight. 90cm long, 26cm wide, 42mm thick is so blooming heavy, that after many trials with (in and out) feeding angles, I just gave up and decided to sacrifice the last 6cm on each board. (Makita 2012NB). At least now I will have no excuses to make a mallet, panzer-coasters or tealight holders :-))
For the planer tabletop extension, I saw you add one stop block at the front, but did you add one in the back too? Thanks!
Hi, no I didn't I find no need for it. However if you want to add it on you can do that 👍
@@CasualDIY
Thanks for the response! I’ve seen these tabletop extensions before and I’m seriously considering adding one myself. Thanks again and keep the videos coming!👍🏻✅
@@stevesiefken6432 well worth making 👍
so then there is flex and imperfection in the factory tables attached to the planer if a solid board eliminates the snipe. You have proven your point it seems. I wonder if those larger industrial planers with the big beds have any snipe.
I think its the nature of these types of tools, however not sure how an industrial version of this type of tool would work and perform.
Hi @Casual Diy,
How are you finding the Metabo? I recall you had the Triton TPT125 beforehand.
I had the triton but wood shavings got between the blade (only 1mm thick) and the blade holder, and bent the blades significantly. I was being careful with it too, taking 1/2mm off each pass. So I sent it back. I haven’t yet replaced it but I was thinking of the TPT 125, but everything has rocketed in price since last year when I had the Metabo. I only paid £321 for the Metabo, and now you can’t get any thicknesser for that!
Hi, never had the Triton in my workshop however few of my friends got it and they are not complaining 😉
@@CasualDIY apologies, I must have confused it with this review of the Titan!
czcams.com/video/4vxIZnskbVw/video.html
If after adjusting feed tables level there's still snipe due to table flexing, i wonder if a solution would be shimmed spacer blocks under each table. Would only work if your thicknesser is on a workbench of course, but in theory it should eliminate flex as there nowhere to flex to.
Hmm could be an option for shorter pieces but in my opinion for longer boards it's best to have a longer table.
I have the same thicknesser, just wondering where you got the vacuum adapter from?
I've 3d printed it myself, got a video on that plus Free files 👍
The vacuum adapter which came with my table saw also fits the Metabo planer. That’s what I use. Dewalt 1004695-90
@@Vikingjoineryworks thanks for that tip, I ordered one and it fits great!
When I read the headline I thought you had a problem with a flock of wading birds.😂🥰
🤣👍🦅
There was still snipe. Hard to see at the angle of the camera, but I saw it 😅
Well everyone will see what they want to see 😅
12:51
wszystko ok ale nie zablokowałeś dźwignią metabo takie moje spostrzeżenie mam taką sama
Nigdy nie blokuje i z moich obserwacji na nic to nie wpływa a maszyny używam już kilka ładnych lat
Wild accent.
Or you could just but a DeWalt
All thicknesser machines got the potential to produce snipe
Hi Tomasz. I’m a late comer to your channel, but I am actively binge watching you. I like the simple no nonsense approach you have. You talk in simple terms and never assume the person knows what you are talking about ie no gobldy gook. I find your easy to follow dialogue so good.
I have a query that you might be able to help with. I after either a planner jointer or a thicknesser, dilemma is which to get as a first time user. Space and money are an issue at present with the state the world is in. Iv’e been looking at the Triton TPT 125 thicknesser Planing Width 331mm @ £379.95, Scheppach PLM1800 152MM Thicknesser Planing Width 330mm @ £379.99 or Scheppach HMS1070 Planer Thicknesser 254mm board width £509.99 as of 18/04/23. The Scheppach HMS1070 Planer Thicknesser is out pf my price range. Basic option is the Titan TTB579PLN Planer Thicknesser Planing Width 204mm @ £199.99.
Would appreciate your input on your suggestions. My man cave is 8ft x 6f shed at the bottom of the garden with power. Im UK based. All are either available on Amazon, Screwfix or Toolstation. My main aim is just simple DIY work. I would like to make some new kitchen cupboard doors and drawers from hardwood frame and MR MDF center, roughly around 40 units in total yes a rather large kitchen. Tools I have are 1/2 inch Triton router, Katsu palm router Bosch 1/4 inch router, router table, compound mitre saw, biscuit jointer, two jig saws, multi tool, Kreg pocket hole jig, MFT top with Benchdog kit and a plunge saw and extra rails. So not short on the main tools jut a plannerJointer/thicknesser.
I’ve set myself a time limit of 6 to 7 months for this project as my wife has terminal cancer and they have given her a life expectancy of 12 to 14 months so hopefully she will see the finished job. I’ve taken an 18 month break from work to look after her, hence the funds problem. I will also be trying to source some Cull wood (lumber that has been pulled from inventory because it is damaged) from local timber yards to keep costs down as much as possible. See I have been listening to you Tomasz. A rather long comment but hope you are able to advise with your usual aplomb.
Sorry to hear about your wife's condition. What you are doing for her is amazing and I hope your project will come out as you wanted. Where it comes to the planer it all depends what are you planning to do with it in the future. If this is the only project you will use it for then its pointless to invest too much money in it. However if plan to use it in the future then I would always suggest buying the best machine you can afford. And in this case with the largest capacity as well. These types of tools are expensive and you don't want to be stuck with something that you will outgrow in no time. There is a good option of jointer/thicknesser from Metabo, can't remember the model tho.