How To Paint Motorcycle Fairings (Tutorial)
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- čas přidán 10. 03. 2019
- This tutorial will show you How To Paint Motorcycle Fairings. What to do if your finishing something someone else started.
LINK below for all equipment used in this video.
Tools:
Respirator:
amzn.to/30OWxJd
Body Filler:
amzn.to/2MeReQ5
Filler Application Blades:
amzn.to/2YSg1uC
Sanding Block:
amzn.to/2Wsr0xs
Wet and Dry Sandpaper:
amzn.to/2MaX6db
Air Blower:
amzn.to/2EBoV84
Dual Action Sander:
amzn.to/2WaiC6h
Dent Puller - Glue Gun Included:
amzn.to/2MbaPAH
Mixing Kit: Cups, Sticks, Filters:
amzn.to/2Wo55rh
Spray Guns: 1.8mm, 1.4mm, 1.0mm:
amzn.to/2WuA9FI
Mini Buff Polishing Pads:
amzn.to/2Qx8ajs
Cutting Compound:
amzn.to/2QuysTt
Machine Polish:
amzn.to/2YOP5Mv
Microfiber Clothes:
amzn.to/2WlsI3N
2K Primer:
amzn.to/2HFFtOd
2K Clear Coat:
amzn.to/2WuCTTw
Paint Reducer, Thinner:
amzn.to/2Mf7HDR
Wax and Grease Remover:
amzn.to/2HFP2gf
TACKlLife Rotary Grinder:
amzn.to/2HDSx8g
Plastex Repair Kit:
amzn.to/2YkJ0rv
Camera and gear used to shoot this video:
Camera:
Cannon M50
amzn.to/2EsgKdt
Over Head Camera
Go pro HERO7 Black
amzn.to/2UyjxbW
Microphone:
Rode Video Pro R
amzn.to/2EHlRYC
Lighting:
Fovitec 20x28 softbox
amzn.to/2GYunVw
Tripod:
Benro slim / B&S head
amzn.to/2XxPYcA
This video was edited with Adobe Premiere Pro CC
www.adobe.com/
This description contains affiliate links. If you click on one of the links I will receive a small commission. These will help grow this channel and allow me to continue to make more content. Thank you for supporting the channel.
This Video:
In this video tutorial, I show you how to paint motorcycle fairings and the best way to finish work you didn't start. With a tutorial about some tips on not getting caught by simple mistakes. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Great stuff, more detail in this video than any other I have seen so far.
Thank you, I appreciate the feedback. I will do my best to maintain the standard.
Very clear and easy to understand
Buddy’s serious asf
I killed a man, with this thumb.
On gang he is lol
@@ShimmyAkira stfu “oN gAnG”
@@ShimmyAkira on phom em grave he is
@@ShimmyAkira you made my day saying that lol 😆
Fantastic stuff Kel! This video is great help as I’m about to tackle my first set of fairings! Keep up the good work!
About time! Concise and to the point. 👍👍👍👍
Wow, excellent video! The piece looked fantastic! Cheers🤘
Kel you are the man.. this is GOLD!!
I could see the gold mate. you got the shot.
Very helpful training. Thank you for sharing!
That looked really good. Love the touch of the flakes!
Excellent! thats the work of an professionnel and thanks a lot for the tips
Nice Video! Just about to repair my race fairings inbetween rounds and stumbled across this, subscribed.
exactly what i was looking for. Thanks Kel!
it's always been a breeze for me to paint metal, but always an issue with plastic. I was doing a few things wrong. waiting too long for the next coat, and not using wax and grease remover. thanks for the video!
Man you got to get up early on spray day. Great info thanks
Awesome tutorial. Thanks!
Cracking tutorial thank you, very grateful to you for sharing.
You have a new subscriber From the UK
Cheers Colin
Excellent video, to the point and helpful.
When it comes to sanding, watch those edges‼️. Its real easy to sand through the paint on edges. Still bites me to this day
I really appreciate this video you made it will help me a hole lot when I start painting my bike but I'm just doing a solid black paint job thanks for the info
Legend! Thanks man
Very informative! Well done
Nice work!
Your video gave me joy
Thanks. Your video helped me to paint my bike. Respect. 💐
Happy to help!
Nice job , good tutorial
Great job
Wow doing this to my quad!
Big help thanks
Great video...thanks
This was great. I'm repairing and prepping for paint a few fairing panels for my bike. I'm struggling with the body filler (Plast X 6) and the abs plastic having different strengths and sanding the curves is hard work.
Hi, could you please give a little more detail as to where you are having trouble. I will help you as best I can. There are also some vids on my channel on how to use plastex, that is if this is the same resin powder product you refer to as Plast X 6.
Good on you Kel.
Sana ol naay ing ana
What type of paint would you recommend, would oil based paint be any good ? Or latex? Or any other type?
Hi again. How many minutes to wait for the paint to dry until we apply clear coat?
I heard you used a 2k primer, does that got a flexible additive in it?
Hiii Kel was wondering what kind of paint you ised or would use. Anyways great vid and thank you for your explanation.
How long did you wait for the paint to dry before adding lacquer on sir
Yeahhhh I'm gonna stick to riding with a crappy looking bike, gotta pay the debt off before I invest in luxuries.
You have mad talent man, this is clearly an art to you, I respect the dedication! This is not something I could do, ha.
Hey, thank you for the kind words. I am not a spray painter, I learnt this just by doing it. Appreciation from people like yourself make it worth while. Cheers
Hi, very nice job. I realise you had to rescue somebody else's attempt. But the isn't the fairing abs plastic, which has variable flexibility depending on the ambient temperature, whilst the filler dries you a brittle solid and therefore not compatible with abs plastic?
Hi, thanks for the vid. Wondering what grade of sanding pad do you use on the da sander?
Hey, the paper I used was 240 grit. This grade of paper is only used to rip back filler or go back to bare metal.
Thanks Kel
Hey Kel, really awesome video man, what grit paper should i use to get oem paint off? I tried on my bike fairings and its taken ages for me, i used 400 grit but i feel like theres a quicker way to get it off, cheers
Hi Michael, You don't have to get the paint off. Just get it smooth to the feel, it does not matter what it looks like as long as it feels smooth. Then coat it with 2K primer filler, once dry wet sand with 600 grit. That is it, you are ready for colour. You can use 320 grit to remove the paint. Just make sure to use a good primer filler over the 320 grit scratches. I would not apply top coats over anything lower than 600 grit.
NIce work, I have a question, I have a burgman 400, Ive stripped the plastic panels and Im ready to paint, Id like to use an inexpensive spray gun, im trying to keep it simple,,,,,,sand it, use some dupi color cp199 clear adhension promoter primer, then hit it with paint gun, then clear coat,,,,,is this a simple method to do? Also, can you tell me some good quality paint that will do those plastics that I can put in the spray gun? TY for your work!
Hi, that is exactly how it is done. As far as paint, if you want good qualty then DeBeers is a very good brand. You will pay up $150 for a litre however any of the well known brands will give you an equivalent finish. Method: Undercoat then 600 grit light sand. Color then 600 grit light sand. Just remove the shine. Clear coat and your done. Good luck, great to see you having a go.
Im asumimg i do all this same prep work, im doing matt black over top of gloss black what undercoat if any do i need,or can i just block the gloss out then shoot the matt black
Matt is very forgiving. Just block out the gloss with a 600 grit wet sand. Make sure it's completely dull and shoot the matt. It will be venerable to chips so if you can, coat the matt in a matt finish clear or get flattening agent for satin clear.
Shit, this video was insanely good, thanks for the amazing tutorial with explanations on why you do things and what is happening, it makes all the difference!
Very helpful video! One quick question... I heard of sanding between layers of paint, so is it necessary and when this is done?
Sorry for my bad English
The only time you sand between coats is if you have a reaction or a run in the paint. As a rule I sand only the primer. Most of the time you spray color and clear at the same time so there is no time for sanding.
How do u put on a Kickstart
Get this dude on National Geographic as a voice over
Thank you :)
Thanks for the video but I have a question; when you say 'undercoat' is that was is called "primer' in the USA? Thank you
Hi, Yes, undercoat is primer.👍
Thanks dad
Do you just add or mix the the silver and gold flake into the paint I’m am trying to paint my whole bike and I really like that color and flake you came up with. So it’s two coats of clear 2 or three coats of white then the flake?
Hi Adam, you add you flake to 1K air dry clear coat. Paint white first, 2 or 3 coats. Then flake mixed in 1K clear coat. Then 2K clear to finish, 2 or 3 coats. Don't forget you need a 1.8 to 2mm paint tip for the flake. Good luck.
nice
It probably looks better than when it was new.
Hey kel! Do you wait 15 minutes in between the color, and the flake, and the clear? Or do you let it completely dry
Hi Elizabeth, the choice is yours on that one. You only need to wait 15 mins between any layer. However if you do let them dry give them a good clean before you spray the next layer.
Great video mate.If you wanted to block that back to remove all orange peel would you put more clear on and if so how many coats.
Hi Jamie, because this panel has flake. It would be necessary to put on 1 one coat. If it was just painted, you could block it back as is.
@@howtowithkel3352 thanks mate.
Hi hi i have a matte black plastic mudguard
Can I just spray clearcoat over it so that it shines more
Hi, yes you can. Use some fine scotch brite or 800 paper to give the clear something to stick to and your all good to spray.
Getting all of my supplies to re-paint my track bike's fairings. I noticed you did not include a flex agent. I've read it's a necessary thing to add, what do you think?
Hi Anthony, this is a touchy subject for a lot of folks. Here is my 10c. If you are painting a dirt bike, sure put the flex agent in. For road bikes is is just not necessary. I have painted hundreds of bikes and no one has had an issue. They just don't flex enough to warrant it. Keep the money for a tank of gas when you get finished painting.
Can you teach us how to fit wire mesh to fairings behind the front wheel to keep engine and 3exhausts cleaner and look nicer please. Ive got some engine fairings for my gen1 fazer1000 but dont know how to do this appart from guess, maby heat up heat gun then press cut out mesh into it to stick to plastic maby???
I will try to make something soon to cover this for you. Hang in there.
@@howtowithkel3352 thank you
When bud
6:30 maybe it’s just me being an idiot and the video being sped up, but wouldn’t it be best to lay down the detail work of that fleck first, then finish with an overall coat (with finish product focus on the large flat visible surfaces) laying a uniform “lay” or “grain” to the paint additive with parallel passes? Cheer m8!
Hello, thanks for the video, this was helpful. I’d love to be able to execute this. If you see this and it’s not too much trouble I have a few troubleshooting questions for you, that’s why I’m researching again.
I’m painting a road warrior fairing and I’d like for the job to come out successful, the first go came out pretty bad lol.
I used a process with rattle cans from a company called Touch Up Direct that guarantees color match. I’ve seen similar jobs done this way that came out good so I figured I’d give it a shot since I don’t have professional equipment. The color wasn’t perfect but it was close enough for me. The flake in it came out very uneven.
What happened was I sanded and used oil and grease remover, applied a few coats of primer then used an entire can of color, about 4 coats waiting about 10 minutes in between. I had a couple mishaps during this process and had an issue with debris/ dust finding its way into the paint but it still looked ok. I then put 3-4 coats of clear on and waited 24hours after to dry before I started buffing and polishing. The big issue I noticed was how much orange peel had to be buffed out and almost immediately after I started buffing with the company supplied buffing pad, at the same spot at opposite edges of the fairing, it buffed down to the primer, I wasn’t being aggressive at all. Regardless, I’m left with those white primer marks on either side and still a lot of orange peel around the edges since it was very hard for me to buff around the edges without chipping off paint.
I’m wondering why it sanded through the clear and paint so quickly given how much paint and clear was on there, and how can I prevent so much orange peel next time? Should I have sanded the paint and cleaned it again before priming? I felt like it needed that because the paint had a grainy texture that I guess was supposed to be like that to help the primer stick better. Maybe I used too much clear and that’s why I had so much orange peel? I’ve seen professional videos where it looked like they used way more clear than I did.
Sorry for the long post, I just wanted to be thougough and any advice would certainly help and be appreciated.
Thank you
Hi, Lets start with some basics. Ratlle cans at room temp almost always give you orange peel. Get yourself a jug that is about the same size as the cans you are using. Fill the jug with hot water from the tap. NOT boiling water. Stand the cans in the hot water from 10 mins. Take them out of the water and shake them, they should feel hot to hold. Test spray before you start to paint, you will notice that the heat will cause the paint to have more pressure. This will reduce the peel effect. Apply light coats, the first coat should be transparant. Wait 15 mins then apply another light coat, repeat this until you have your desired color. Keep changing the water and put the can back in the fresh hot water between coats.
Do this same proccess for the clear coat.
I cannot stress enough, LIGHT coats. If you paint to think you will get orange peel again. Take your time and be patient :)
As for your panel now. Sand it all flat and start again. Wet sand your undercoat with 600 grit paper before your spray color.
This should give you a much better result. Good luck my friend and remember. If I can do it, so can you.
@@howtowithkel3352 thank you. This will help. I put the cans in hot water but only before I started the job so they were mostly room temp throughout the process. I’ll be sure to make sure they are warm to the touch at all times now
Is it ok to spray right over the gloss with a primer / paint?
Joe, you need to sand it with 600 grit paper to give the primer something to key into. If you spray straight on the gloss it will chip off very easily.
I spent 200 dollars on cans to paint my bike. I wasted my money in the end. Now I am waiting for my gravity air gun to repair everything.
Was wanting to colormatch my truck grill, it’s ABS plastic, I was gonna use the scotch bright pads to sand it with a scuff promoter and then wash everything down, maybe use an adhesion promoter and then use the paint matched rattle cans, I’m 17 and it’s my first truck so time and money are low, am I missing anything that may ruin the whole thing? Any advice is welcomed, thanks!
Ok, make sure you use grey scotch-brite as it is around 600 grit. If money is tight, you don't need to use adhesion. However, if your grill is black or chrome. I would consider painting it grey first. This will give you a better chance of a color match. I hope this helps. I'm here if you need more info.
HowToWithKel much appreciated, I also have a metal bumper which may be a bit tougher due to orange peel, but I think that’ll be it’s own project for another time, I appreciate the response I’ll definitely subscribe my friend!
@@Austin-mo1vy Hey, if it's metal. Hit it with paint tripper, leave it for 15 or 20 mins. Hose it off. Clean it, undercoat and paint..... Easy
HowToWithKel thanks a lot man, I really appreciate the info!
excellent video! what kind of white paint is best to use on my Fairings? i have an already white cbr600rr and want to redo the fairings in an Arctic white, low gloss finish! thanks! 😊😊
I have a question. I sand the plastic fairings with 180 grid paper, then with 250 and then with 500 grid. Do I have to go all the way to the 800-1000 grid? Also if they have deep scratches is better to fill them up and then use sandpaper again, or to use to go down let's say to 100-60 grid sandpaper to remove them?
If you can it is always better to remove scratches completely before you paint. It is not necessary to go any finer than 400 after priming. From that point on you need 600 to 800 grit. From 1000 grit onward you are starting to polish and the paint will not stick as well. I use 400 grit, then I spray primer. I sand the primer and all other coats with 600 grit. However you should not need to sand after the primer.
@@howtowithkel3352 OK, thanks!
I like the cut of your jib.
No adhesion promoter?
how much would painting a motorcycle gas tank will cost? i have couple chips on the gas tank im trying to get rid of before it starts to rust and mess it all up.
If you take it to a shop for repair, it could cost between $200 and $400. If you do it yourself, maybe $100.
Tip for trying to show the fleck colours. Shine a torch on it when filming.
Thank you for that, I will try it out.
I bought a set of unpainted aftermarket fairings to paint myself. Just curious with these "unpainted" fairings is it still necessary to sand down the surface or apply a primer before the paint?
Hi, Yes they will need to be sanded. Most moulded sufaces are to smooth to paint. Get some 600 grit wet paper or a dry grey scotch brite and go over the fairngs. Make sure they are uniformly dull across the whole surface. Then you are ready to paint. Good luck.
Thank you, sir.
If it’s a small section can you just sand it down and blend it with pre existing paint?
Hey, yes you can. Allow a fairly large blend area if you are repairing flake.
Hi There, i am hoping you would be able to provide me with some advise, I am in the process of getting a Mole Fender for my White Yamaha Vity 125cc scooter, but i can only get the new Mole fender in a dark Blue. what would be the process to spray the Fender in white, i have been told that i need to get sand sand paper to remove the shine gloss paint of the new part, is this correct? thanks in advance. Gerardo Sanchez
Hi Gerardo, Its a simple process. You will need your bike color, any paint shop can make it for you. You can visit colorrite.com to get the paint code. Start by wet sanding the whole surface with 600 grit wet & dry sand paper. You want to take away all the gloss and leave a uniform dull finish. Remember, paint does not stick to gloss. Dry the panel and then clean it with wax and grease remover. Apply your color in 2 or 3 coats, wait 5 to 10 mins between coats. DO NOT try to cover it in 1 coat, you will create runs. To get a factory finish you should coat the color in a hi gloss clear. That's it my friend.
Have fun.
Gerardo, just a quick note. As your new panel is dark blue, you may need to prime it grey to get a good color match.
Where did you get the fleck?? Or what is it called and the brand?
Hi, I got the flake from Eastcoast Customs in Australia via ebay. There are a ton of suppliers on ebay from different parts of the world. If your rich, you can try DNA Flakes. Here is a link to where I brought mine. www.ebay.com.au/itm/WHITE-PEARL-METALFLAKE-008-IRIDESCENT-30G-1OZ-CUSTOM-PAINT-METAL-FLAKE-FLAKES/252973447522?epid=605564010&hash=item3ae6647962:g:lXkAAOxy0rZRGI8a
Did you mix the gold and the silver flake?
How long do you wait before applying the clear coat?
Hi, let your base coat or color dry for about 2 hours. Then you can apply clear coat without any issue.
Hey kel I finally painted my bike. I used Nason 2 part base and clear. I put sapphire blue pigment in my first few coats of clear and and was only able to get one coat of regular clear before I ran out. I still want at least 1 or 2 coats of clear before I buff it out but I don't want to wait to order more. I have some clear left from my boat paint job. It is called distinctive image DI-10 multi max clear. I was told its not the best stuff on the market. Will this ruin my paint job and should I use what I originally used on it. I also got some runs with the clear and would really appreciate any input you have on getting them out. Thanks for your time
Hey Brendan, Mate do not use the old clear, that is a bad move. Order some more and work on getting the runs out while you wait.
Ok, cut a strip of 360 grit paper about 2 inches or 50mm wide. Get a stiff non flexible filler applicator or scraper. Cut the strip to the same size as the applicator or scraper. Fold the paper so you have a crease in the center with 1 inch, 50mm each side of the crease. Tape this over the end of the scraper. Slowly work down the run. You should be able to touch only the run due to the non flexible blade. When the run is flat, give it a wet sand with 600 grit and paint your new clear.
I hope this helps.
@@howtowithkel3352 thank you very much Kel. Your advice has been very helpful so far so I am going to order more of the same stuff I started with. I was also curious about cutting compound and polish. I was thinking meguairs mirror glaze followed by their polish. Have you heard of them and if so how do they work. Sorry for all of the hassle, guess I should have planned a little bit better. Just a learning experience for next. Thank you again.
Hey Brendan, meguairs is a well know brand. In order to cut properly you are going to need a buff. It is better to get a machine grade cutting compound. Any paint supply shop will carry it.
@@howtowithkel3352 hi I got meguairs ultra cut compound 105 extra heavy cut. I am going to get a polish now. I will be applying with a 7 in grinder/buffer/polisher with variable speeds. As againg i am a little confused on the process. I had planned to wetsand with 800, 1500 then apply the cut then polish. Does this seem correct or am I missing anything? Thank you once again. I will try to post pics when finished.
@@brendanmangel8089 Hey, I would use. 800, 1200.1500 and then 2000. This will give you a glass like finish. Its a lot of wet sanding but you will love the finished result.
Would love to see a pic when your finished.
What size compressor do you use?
I have a 17cfm compressor with a 200lt tank. A basic 10 - 12 cfm with a 70lt tank is what I started with and it worked well.
Walter White if he had chosen an automotive career
I have done a great deal of automotive painting but always on the metal parts of classic British & German cars of the 50's & 60's with no plastic parts. I was always under the impression that a special paint or additives to promote flexibility were needed when painting on plastic parts to avoid cracking. Is this not true? I did not hear you mention anything about this so I am assuming that I heard wrong in the past. Can you confirm this? Wonderful video. Thank you!
Hey PJ, If you are painting plastic that is fixed on all sides like motorcycle fairings it is not neccessary to add anything. On some large front bumpers with a lot of movement it is a good idea. However it is as simple as spraying a flex agent on the panel before you paint it. Modern acrylic paints are very flexible. Paint a peice of plastic and bend it, you will see for yourself. I am painting a Lotus 7 right now, all aluminium.
@@howtowithkel3352 : Thanks, Kel. In this case, one of the parts I am painting does get quite a bit of flex as it is the front hood of a "side by side' ATV (or UTV actually) that I use on my ranch. The unit itself has simply seen too much sunlight and although I have tried to get deep enough into the plastic to try and resurrect a uniform color to buff and call it call it good, it's just not going to look right in the end. So, I have decided to paint it. I just need to do my best to prevent it from cracking or failing in other ways. I am used to doing very detailed prep and don't mind spending the time to do so as it is my nature. I just need to give it my best attempt using the proper materials so this is where I am a bit out of my element. I very much appreciate your advice!
Hey Kel, I am going to purchase an air compressor and paint guns for a similar job. Any tips what size air compressor to get or what to look for. (trying to get a used one under $200 but not sure if this is realistic expectation)
Hi Dylan, you should be able to pick up a compressor that will do the job for around $200. Aim for a minimum of 12 cfm. Ideally 17 cfm is where you want to be but i don't know if you will find one for $200. If you are only painting small panels you should be fine with 12 cfm. Good luck with your search.
How To With Kel thanks Kel I appreciate your response! Does hP or size matter as much as CFM? Currently eyeballing a 2hp but I guess if the CFM is there the HP and size are what create it so I’ll stick to CFM. Thanks again mate great videos
How To With Kel new ones from Supercheap/total tools @200$ are only 5-7CFM (120l/m) so def buying used cheers
Dylan, just for your knowledge bank. CFM is created by the pump. HP is important as obviously you need enough HP to drive the pump. 2HP is plenty for 12 CFM.
Do the paint have to be heat resistant for the plastics I wanna paint mine
No, ordinary paint is all you need. You only need heat resistant paint when paintimg exhausts or engine covers.
@@howtowithkel3352 thank you 🙏🏿
What grit did you use for the blocking
Hi, 400 - 600 is normally used when blocking. If you are removing filler ridges you can use 320 or even 240 however it pays to finish the surface in 600 before painting.
@@howtowithkel3352 thank you for you advice sir.
How do you avoid things sticking to the paint while spraying outside
Hi, the fact is I don't. I make sure that all surfaces are free of dust around me and that the part that I am painting is in the middle of the room. By doing this I avoid must particles from getting on the work. The only thing I cannot control are the little flying critters. HARD rule. Do not try to remove any flying thing. Leave it there and come back when the paint is dry. A light sand will in 90% of cases allow you to carry on. A small delay is always better than starting again.
My bike had a respray before I bought it and it's reacted badly in some areas, the paint has crazed. I've got some replacement panels but can't get hold of the rest, I was told that I wouldn't be able to redo the bad panels. Do you think it's possible?
Hi mate, It is very possible to repair your old panels.Take the time to wet sand then flat with 400 grit paper. Then get some 2K primer undercoat, this will seal the panels. Once this is dry, wet sand with 600 grit paper and spray as normal. They will work out just fine.
@@howtowithkel3352 Thanks for your reply, that's good to hear. 👍😎
I have a fairing that is in good condition but the wrong colour. I have no tools to paint and don’t trust myself not to screw it up so I’m looking for a professional to do the work. I’d like to save myself some money and the person painting it some work by sanding it down myself. I’m fairly sure I won’t screw that up. Do I need to just sand the clear coat or do I have to go down past the original paint?
Hi, this is an easy one for you, all you need to do is remove the shine. Get some 600 grit sand paper and give it a wet sand all over. When you have a uniform dull looking surface, it's ready to paint. That's it.
@@howtowithkel3352 thanks so much, with a block, not the hand, correct?
@@hailboognish3858 A block is always best. There will be some places that you can't get to with a block but do as much as you can with the block. Good luck.
I have a question. After 24 hours that I have painted the fairings and put 2 coats of clear coat, I saw that some spots on the fairings have not had a clear coat on them. They are rough on touch. Can I spray a new coat of clear now? Or should I sand the whole plastics with 1500 grid and then do 2 coats of clear coat? ?
You can paint them no problem. But you need to rough the whole panel, paint just the missed areas first and then put a coat on the whole panel. Before you paint, wet sand with 600 grit paper or dry rub with grey scotchbrite. Anything 800 and above is more for polishing. If you use 1500 your new clear will not stick.
@@howtowithkel3352 Thanks! So to understand better, do I have to wet sand with 600 grid the whole panel? Or only the parts that I missed with the clear coat? And after spraying a new clear coat over the whole panel.
You have to wet sand the whole panel first. Then paint the parts you missed. Then paint a coat over the whole panel. The sanding puts tiny sratches in the surface to give the new clear something to stick too.
i used 80grit to rough up my panels+tank quicker, as doing all by hand, then (relatively quickly) used 120, 180 and 240 grit. Have I made a big mistake? I've been using the finer grits above and they seem to take the paint back very, very slowly. Hence me using 80. I'm thinking now maybe the scratches are too deep? I have one panel that feels very smooth, one, quite smooth, and the metal i havent gone above 80g yet, but looks very rough!
why do we use wet sandpaper? i just find it gets clogged instantly and spend ages spraying the scum off both the panel and sandpaper every 30-40secs?
Ok.
The panels with the deep scratches. Use a good filler/primer first. Rub this with 400 grit paper. This should fill the scratches. You should be fine to paint after this step.
Wet sanding will cause clogging on low grit papers. From 400 grit on wards this should not happen. The water will stop the paper from clogging if you dip your paper regularly. The reason I wet sand is to reduce the dust. Every time you blow dust off a panel its lands somewhere else. If your luck is like mine that dust will come back only when you start to spay.
@@howtowithkel3352 followed your steps, and looks incredible thanks kel. I started using white cans of hycote Primer, absolutely rubbish, 4 cans wouldn't even cover 4 panels. Went over with a single standard hycote grey Primer and coverage was sweet with like HALF a can!
I do still have a few dust marks and also stupidly I tried to sand off a colour coat (3rd white gloss) paint splash/spot (from clogged nozzle) after about 30 mins of drying but 400 sandpaper (dry) ended up "pulling/rubbing" off about 3 pieces of paint leaving low spots/visible chips, and in one area on another panel back to bare plastic.
This was last week so now will be 100% dry, in future what is the best course of action for when you see a dribble/spot or bit of dust? You should stop painting immediately then must wait 24hours to dry before sanding off with 400? Heat it with a heat gun till dry then sand? Or just wipe quickly? 🤔
I haven't put any clear on these panels yet so I'm wondering if tomorrow now I should just sand, maybe use dolphin glaze filler on the chips, sand, and then re apply some Primer (grey so I can see where I've been) then go over with more colour coat.
This is my biggest challenge as I only have my mates workshop on sat & sun! Trying to knock panels out in one day 😡
P. S you earned yourself a sub already! 😂 Thanks mate
Hey how are you?
Rule number one...... walk away and let it dry.
You can use your finger nail to test if a run or flood is dry. You should not be able to push your finger nail into the paint using reasonable pressure.
If you are going to apply color after this step. 600 grit is the roughest paper you should use.
Any filler will work to fix your chips. Just under coat the fill, let it dry!!! A quick sand with 600 grit and your good to paint.
@@howtowithkel3352 I'm not bad kel thanks, looking forward to finishing my hornet tomorrow... If paint goes well!
What do you mean "undercoat the fill?" as in spray the area to be filled with Primer first? Then fill, sand with 600, Primer again, then paint right? Like just in that area I hope.
Are you In lockdown over by you?
Normally you would only prime bare metal first. You can prime first if you want but it is not necessary. Prime after fill and yes only the area you filled.
Lock down here is the worst in the world. It is tough at the moment!!
Hi Kel did you use plastic primer on the beach you rubbed through
Hi Rob, no I just used a 2 pac primer/undercoat. That sealed it up very well.
Okay so I won’t have to use plastic primer ??
On the bear plastic that is
No, you will be fine to use a good 2pac primer. Just dull down the new surface with 600 grit to give the primer something to stick to.
Well done, good information and i didn't now about the bonding of the paint layers (COOL) Show a little more detail in the video, that would be great.
Hi Kel. Great tutorials. Very talented person. Is there any way to get in touch with you as I need someone to paint my bike. I am western suburbs Victoria. If you were interested it would be a great help. Thanks mate.
Hi, how are you? Send me an email kd@yourgarage.com.au and we can exchange contacts and have a chat about your bike.
if I were to use spray paint, what kind of paint would I need?
Can I ask what you are painting?
Does this also work on PP fairings?
Yes it will. Same rules apply.
What grease remover would you recomend for cleaning as you did?
Great vid.
I use Prepwash, supplied by Motorspray. It is a good all purpose wax and grease remover.
@@howtowithkel3352 thanks for reply and invaluble tuition.
What did you use to hold fairings
I made my own platform. You can buy a similar thing. I would need to show you pics of it if you wanted to make one.
Use this link to see the type of thing I am talking about. www.ebay.com.au/itm/174641124377?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1CS7LgNXYTWKQC5AFgAFBNg27&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&itemid=174641124377&targetid=1394832146620&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9071320&poi=&campaignid=14473186275&mkgroupid=128284036722&rlsatarget=pla-1394832146620&abcId=9300654&merchantid=7608122&gclid=Cj0KCQjwtrSLBhCLARIsACh6RmgpkInSNgNX3yyYKzu3lqs2zzn7hUOklMke_oJX8TIo7TbTh0V4fNEaAmvAEALw_wcB
Bob Ross of mechanics
Can you send me a link of where I can purchase a kit to repaint my fairings. I used duplicolor on another project and it seemed ok for what I wanted to achieve. Would that brand of paint work. I used the championship white and I used a clear coat from a local dealer.
Hi Brendan, you can use any brand of paint. Duplicolor is fine. I would recommend a 2 pak clear as it is a lot harder and has a higher shine than most air dry clears. A 1 litre kit is all you should need. What type of equipment are you using? Compressor and gun or rattle cans? Let me know what country your in so I can help you with a link.
@@howtowithkel3352 thank you for the feedback. I am in niagara falls ny. I will be using a compressor and gun. Would you recommend just a scuff sanding as opposed to going down to the plastic?
@@brendanmangel8089 Ok, wet sand 600 grit. If you go through to the under coat in any spots. Paint just these areas first and wait 15 mins. Check for reactions around the edges of the undercoat to top coat. If it's all clear go ahead and paint your first complete coat. If you get a reaction, like a fluffy looking ring around the edge. Rub it back with 600 Grit and seal with 2 pak under coat. Then you will be good to paint.
@@howtowithkel3352 is 2 pak the brand or is that just the clear coat with the 4:1 mix
@@brendanmangel8089 Sorry mate should have specified. 2 pak is any product with 2 parts, Hardener and base.
Wat airbrush paint is good
Hey Kyle, I would say Createx is one of the best out there. Huge range and a professional quality paint.
what kind of paint do you recommend to use?
Hi, give me a little more info on what you want to paint and I will help as best I can.
repainting my bikes fairings soon. I saw what primer and clear coat you used but what kind of paint would you recommend for the actual color.@@howtowithkel3352
can you paint a fairing with a regular spray can?
Hi, yes you can. However you will need to let it dry for a few days and then depending on the finish you want. You can give it a sand with 2000 grit and polish it up. Or just leave it. It will never be a gun finish and will not stick like gun applied paint. chips are very common. Good luck have fun.
@@howtowithkel3352 thank you. Just enquiring for now
What psi should I use? And is 110 psi enough
Hi, You should be using between 20 and 30 psi.
I have a Devilbiss Gti Pro Lite. That gun uses 29psi. Some of my other guns are down to 22psi. Hold your gun still and spay some paper. Look to see if your pattern is even and nicely feathred on the edges. Adjust your pressure to get an oval pattern feathered edge.
Whats a good thing to fill small cracks?
John, give me a little more detail. Are the cracks on the surface or do they go right through the panel? Are they in the middle or on the edges?
@@howtowithkel3352 theres a mixture of them all the surface cracks are in the middle
I could try show pictures if you have a place i can send them? My bike slid yesterday and fell on one side which scraped my fairing and broke off pieces
@@johnquinn1496 Hey mate, send pics to kd@yourgarage.com.au. I'll be able to give you better advice this way.
Great video thanks. Did you wet sand or dry sand with the 600 grit pre painting? Did you do the same before applying the clear coat? I have read that you need to toughen up the paint so the clear coat trips better?
Hi, I dry sanded the undercoat. You can wet sand if you want. In this case I did not sand before clear because of the flake. It is always best to apply clear over flake on the same day. If you leave a part in color for a few days before you clear coat. It would be a good idea to give it a sand or use grey scotch brite. If you paint color and clear on the same day you do not need to sand.
@@howtowithkel3352 thanks for the reply. Im guessing you use the scotch brite wet? It's not very warm here at the moment so I'm giving each step longer to dry / harden so I'll end up having to sand or scotchbrite as per your suggestion