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Hey Kel, really awesome video man, what grit paper should i use to get oem paint off? I tried on my bike fairings and its taken ages for me, i used 400 grit but i feel like theres a quicker way to get it off, cheers

You made that look easier than it is, nice job for sure! 👌

Very informative! Well done

Great tutorial, I'm fairly competent mechanically, but have barely tried bodywork, I might give it a go 👍🏻

What type and brand do you use for the paint? I am worried to use the wrong ones and the job will get destroyed when spilling fuel on it. I would appreciate any advice or guidance, thanks.

Kel, thank you for this. I just inherited a 2002 ZX9R, and I'm working on fixing it up and it has some cracked fairings. Thanks to these tutorials, I'm confident I can fix this bike up without having to buy any new cheap fairings. Thank you!

That's brilliant mate! I cracked a few things on a camping trip last week and am loathed to face the cost of replacing them with the likelihood they'll get cracked again. Superb.

Kel - found the video. Thanks for the direction. And LIKED this one too. I'll keep you posted on how it goes

Hi Kel - Just found this video and you may actually be some good news I needed. Did you ever do a video showing how to properly paint/spray plastic fairings? My bike was stolen, now found, and is at a shop. One of those situations though where the investment to fix it will outweigh the value of the bike, but I have found a shop that has a great reputation and he understand my situation. Damage is alot of plastic fairings scrapes and imperfections...and then a turn signal, key lockset, brake, clutch lever, clutch, and maybe internal wiring. And I already have all those parts. But just now it dawned on me that maybe all these plastic fairings could be filled in, sanded down, primed, painted, and clear coated. All using the existing parts on my bike. If you have a video after the prep process or how to professional get a high end finish...that would be amazing. I just bought all the fairings OEM, and you can imagine that i now I'm questioning the process. But if I can return those and redirect that money back into the actual labor and mechanical parts necessary to make it safe for me to get back on the road, that would be such a huge help

When it comes to sanding, watch those edges‼️. Its real easy to sand through the paint on edges. Still bites me to this day

No adhesion promoter?

Walter White if he had chosen an automotive career

Get this dude on National Geographic as a voice over

nice

Do you wet sand and buff

Looks amazing, once you add the vinyl graphics it will look factory. 👌🏼

Good video. Seems your plastex link goes to "unavailable" product site. Also, seems there is no product for the 250g bottle. Where can I purchase same product, available in Canada?

Shit, this video was insanely good, thanks for the amazing tutorial with explanations on why you do things and what is happening, it makes all the difference!

🤩🇺🇸👍⚖️👁️👁️⚖️🇯🇵🏁🏁Great stuff! Will be restoring my 84 Gpz soon! Been mothballed since 94. Fairing was damaged in crash around 88. Original owner. Retirement "Mad Mac" trophy project. Wiseco 810 kit...Kehien CR 33 mm Specials...4 into 1 Vance & Hines exhaust! Flame spitter! Thanks for video! All the best!🏁🏁🏁🏁

That looked really good. Love the touch of the flakes!

Mate ,you know the job

it's always been a breeze for me to paint metal, but always an issue with plastic. I was doing a few things wrong. waiting too long for the next coat, and not using wax and grease remover. thanks for the video!

Yes kel. Show us the process. I love all your work that is shown in plain English.

make more videos Kel - this is amazing!

Hi Kel. Love your work. What are the gun sizes for (1.4 and 2mm)?

Hi my old Victor mower backfires badly when I shut it down. Do you know how I can fix it?

what kind of paint do you recommend to use?

Hello, thanks for the video, this was helpful. I’d love to be able to execute this. If you see this and it’s not too much trouble I have a few troubleshooting questions for you, that’s why I’m researching again. I’m painting a road warrior fairing and I’d like for the job to come out successful, the first go came out pretty bad lol. I used a process with rattle cans from a company called Touch Up Direct that guarantees color match. I’ve seen similar jobs done this way that came out good so I figured I’d give it a shot since I don’t have professional equipment. The color wasn’t perfect but it was close enough for me. The flake in it came out very uneven. What happened was I sanded and used oil and grease remover, applied a few coats of primer then used an entire can of color, about 4 coats waiting about 10 minutes in between. I had a couple mishaps during this process and had an issue with debris/ dust finding its way into the paint but it still looked ok. I then put 3-4 coats of clear on and waited 24hours after to dry before I started buffing and polishing. The big issue I noticed was how much orange peel had to be buffed out and almost immediately after I started buffing with the company supplied buffing pad, at the same spot at opposite edges of the fairing, it buffed down to the primer, I wasn’t being aggressive at all. Regardless, I’m left with those white primer marks on either side and still a lot of orange peel around the edges since it was very hard for me to buff around the edges without chipping off paint. I’m wondering why it sanded through the clear and paint so quickly given how much paint and clear was on there, and how can I prevent so much orange peel next time? Should I have sanded the paint and cleaned it again before priming? I felt like it needed that because the paint had a grainy texture that I guess was supposed to be like that to help the primer stick better. Maybe I used too much clear and that’s why I had so much orange peel? I’ve seen professional videos where it looked like they used way more clear than I did. Sorry for the long post, I just wanted to be thougough and any advice would certainly help and be appreciated. Thank you

Thanks for the good info

Hiii Kel was wondering what kind of paint you ised or would use. Anyways great vid and thank you for your explanation.

Excellent video, to the point and helpful.

Do you have a coil module for a victa 160cc. or do you know where i can get one

I wanna do this to my Super Cub but I’m scared! 😱

Where can i get a module coil for a victor 160cc. the same as this video and the cost if possible

Where are you Kel? You haven't posted anything for ages.

excellent video! what kind of white paint is best to use on my Fairings? i have an already white cbr600rr and want to redo the fairings in an Arctic white, low gloss finish! thanks! 😊😊

Is this method better than using JB Weld?

Do the paint have to be heat resistant for the plastics I wanna paint mine

Can you teach us how to fit wire mesh to fairings behind the front wheel to keep engine and 3exhausts cleaner and look nicer please. Ive got some engine fairings for my gen1 fazer1000 but dont know how to do this appart from guess, maby heat up heat gun then press cut out mesh into it to stick to plastic maby???

Hello mate. I want to paint my tank as you have here but will be adding a decal. Am I right in thinking that I follow the process you have shown here, then let it cure before sanding it, apply decal, clearcoat over the top (X2 or 3), and cure? Job done.

I was told to rub the clear coat in but when I did it just smudged and smeared

Thanks for the video but I have a question; when you say 'undercoat' is that was is called "primer' in the USA? Thank you

great job on the mower and the bike thanks for shareing

I really appreciate this video you made it will help me a hole lot when I start painting my bike but I'm just doing a solid black paint job thanks for the info

Hi Kel, that Plastex I pretty impressive. I know plastics have changed quite a bit over the last few decades. I see what you are working on is fairly new. Have you used Plastex for on any old fairings from the 80s? I have a fairing from an 85 Honda Elite scooter & wondered if plastex would bond to that plastic?

Would it be better / easier to join pieces after prepping with normal CA glue just to hold the position instead of tape, and then do the rest of the glue filler stuff?

"loud pipes save lives" doesn't mean they save lives 100% of the time. Absence of evidence does not mean evidence of absence. Just because loud pipes didn't save you doesn't mean they won't save others. I know this is 4 years old, but the logic in this video is abhorrent. insulating cars does reduce the noise but all it takes is having the window down. blipping can be a waste of time, but i think the argument is more so about the passive noise. or at least it can be about that. Fair enough on using the horn though, good advice. "it won't because it didn't" is fallacious logic. you should use best practices anyway, but louder pipes can only increase good outcomes really. At some point, at some time it'll have a good effect. how often that is? no idea. is it worth it? beats me but there's no real way to say it's never been useful and never will be useful.

I have done a great deal of automotive painting but always on the metal parts of classic British & German cars of the 50's & 60's with no plastic parts. I was always under the impression that a special paint or additives to promote flexibility were needed when painting on plastic parts to avoid cracking. Is this not true? I did not hear you mention anything about this so I am assuming that I heard wrong in the past. Can you confirm this? Wonderful video. Thank you!

Thanks for this! I’ve always had issues starting my 2 Stroke. It was good to be able to troubleshoot without having to play the Damsel in Distress!

Do you have a gear list of the supplies needed to paint like this