Pac-Man Arcade Restoration Part 4 - How to bullet proof a Pac-Man - Edge Connector, Fuse Holder
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- čas přidán 6. 10. 2013
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Here, it is! Part number 4 of the Midway Pac-Man Mini Cabaret restore! In this video we'll cover the following topics:
#1 - Replacing the molex edge connector on a Pac-Man (22/44 connector)
#2 - Replacing the fuse blocks on a Pac-Man (fixes hum bar and other issues)
#3 - Replacing the power cord on a Pac-Man
#4 - Replacing the marquee on a Pac-Man and preserving it with Triple-Thick
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Rewatching this series. Thanks and hope everyone is well.
I’m also rewatching :P
Hey John, big fan of you're videos. I bought an original Pac-man at a yard sale off some old man for 50 bucks, it's complete down to the coin box. I was gonna pay someone to come in and fix it, but ive really been motivated to fix it myself, thanks to you. Keep up the good work and I hope to have a basement like yours.
As an A+ certified technician, I now have a new, and greater sense of appreciation for the trade of commercial arcade machine servicing. I knew there was the CRT, of course, the system board, ect, but I had no idea so much more circuitry was inside an arcade machine. And to think most of it carries much higher voltage than what I find inside the average PC. Now I know why those machines are so heavy. Thanks for doing these videos. :)
Haha, date night with John's Arcade restoration movie, that would be something :)
that new edge connector looks sexy with all those factory crimped pins.
glad you liked and enjoyed the Molex crimper.
Peace
Buffett
well done John, you have a knack for making tedious tasks highly entertaining and rather exciting. i was on the edge of my seat when you powered up the pac after wiring the molex. nice job on the podcast too, cheers
Ah, finally another part! Funniest moment in this clip imho was when you were crimping pins and went: "That is a beatiful..! Yeah, that's good. ..is that good? This one isn't good at all!"
I can often tell when you're not really satisfied with the work you've done, just by the tone of your voice. 10 seconds later - you're redoing it. :)
Love your videos, keep it up!
Thanks, Buffett!! That molex crimper was SWEET to use! THANKS!
Wow, great video, the PAC MAN is really starting to take shape!
I think you would go great with +The 8-Bit Guy because you both are good at restoring old technology.
Thanks John for doing a pac man review
again I want to say thank you for your wisdom now that I'm retired I'm trying to make this a hobby so I'll let you know how it turns out also I'll be tuning into your podcast
ahhh the wait is over!!!
There are frosted LEDs with good diffusion. I use them on my pins. Granted they don't look right behind certain types of artwork, but I'll bet that marquee would look excellent with them.
Thanks for these videos John! I'm in the middle of restoring a Revenge From Mars. It's pretty much like doing a pinball machine and arcade. Lots of work, since I disassembled it down to the bare cab.
Awesome work as usual John, I'll be gutted when you finished this and I just hope you get into fixing up another one pretty soon... ;)
Yep! I have had a few tell me this already. I'll get some ASAP!
can't wait
YESS can't wait to watch... *PLAY*
Thanks! I have read about the caps on the PCB fixing some hum issues. I might replace them.
Finally finished this video after a week. Why not swap out the marquee lights for leds? I've been able to pick up leds for coin door lights on my Ms Pac, which I went with because there is much less waste heat and therefore less fading.
LED's tend to have a very focused light field. I like the diffused incandescent light look.
Wow john that’s a lot work cutting crimping each wire one at time …I us to cut them all and wire (solder to each pin on a new connector) with the manual from color code. Then I learn a real!!!!!!!!! good trick. line up the new connector parts/solder side, then cut, strip and solder each wire from left to right or right to left what ever was easiest, to the new connector……..
Wow, yesterday night I was at a classic arcade myself! :P
You went total chipmunk there for a minute
It's all good! It keeps me motivated. :) I don't mind! :D
Nevermind, arcade Buffett he was right.
I love watching these videos. Great tutorial knowledge
Just noticed the 555's weren't what you needed, I'm sure they have a retro version of what you need. Just make sure you get the warms, it's the closest to the incandescent look I've found.
Yes, it is an All Blacks hat! :)
Wow john all that space u could have a garagecade too!!
Nice video John, really coming along well. It looks like it's probably just 1 more video to go on this one, maybe two. Just wondering, do you already have the next machine restore lined up? Fingers crossed for a Galaga, Galaxians or Phoenix. Loving your work.
Thank you for this video. I just got a Tutankham Arcade today, and when i cracked it open when i got home i found something odd about the PCB. It appears the Molex connect let go on one of the wires for the harness and rather then re-crimp the connected they solder it to the PCB. Now ive got to unsolder it and get a crimper tool and connectors to fix it or just redo the whole konami harness.
Btw thanks for showing us in such detail how to do alot of this stuff.Feel free to number it 12 and call it 99 if you want.
Cool vid thanks. Also, is that an All Blacks hat? NZ represent! :D
Lol just finished watching the video. an hour and a half is nothing compared to the marathon run of the Gyrrus restore i did from 1 to the last XD I'd do it again too I also always did kind of wonder how the power cord hooked onto these machines thanks for demystifying that for me.
Hey John, what’s the easiest way to tell which side of the edge connector is parts side vs solder side?
1:40, John?!?! I'm loving it, but my wife will want to bite my face. Thanks for the dedication!
1:40
A Cap across the Speaker can help remove the hum just need to experiment on the UF
Sorry John, it is a 4!!! Love the vids...
have you ever looked into SMDs and SMD panels?
Have you ever considered making a mame cabinet?
Have they come up with a way now to eliminate that old power supply transformer for a better option now ? I have a ms Pacman. I want to keep the original pcb but upgrade the power supply if anyone has suggestions
You should clean it. the bottom of the cab would look so much nicer! While doing the fuse holders just rip the other things off and polish.
Where did you get the wire stripper? I haven't seen one like that yet and am interested in getting on for myself.
Do you think that hum, could be a ground issue?
Haha, "where did my bit go?". You should have edited the video with some CGI and added the bit from Tron: "Yes" "No" :)
John I have been doing a PAC restore also and can't find where the hum is . I have done everything that you did plus a cap kit and still humming it is really loud when it is powered on .
Thanks! I'm really anti-LED. :) So, I'll stick with these bulbs. Thanks, though!
where can I get the kit to replace the molex edge bob Roberts is closed down again thank you for sharing your knowledge I'm green to this but after your video that's my problem with my ms packman
Mike's Arcade has them.
why not put a led board behind the marquee . . . that would solve the heat problem
You Should Make A Light Up Bezzel On That
Cool 😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎
First off, nice bike!
A 555 is a 6.3V wedge base bulb, often used in pinball machines. They can be run on AC or DC.
A bayonet base is the one that has 2 "tits" (yes, the technical term) on each side that you have to give a half-twist to remove from the socket.
A screw base is the one you have to unscrew like a standard household bulb.
You're supposed to be getting 12VAC at the socket. You may have a dirty meter lead, a dirty socket, or bad socket, or even a bad fuse holder. Measure again at the fuse holder to see if you get closer to 12VAC there, that will tell you where the problem is.
I remember, I had a problem with my nintendo cab like that. So, I grounded the monitor to the power supply. And, it fixed the issue.
I do think it could be a ground issue. Not sure where to look.
Most of the times hum is caused by bad filter caps.
A trick is to check the frequency of the noise, if it's close to 100 Hz = Caps.
This time around it was the edge connector. Bad connection. :)
John's Arcade Game Reviews & Tech Just found your channel, I love your videos - you're always explaining the background stories of your restorations and taking your time to do it right.
Slowly I'm also getting interested in Arcade Machines =)
Das OSi often times a hum can be traced to a bad audio amp IC chip on the board, or even a bad transistor, or a ground connection. it can be many things.
hahaha! Thanks! :) You know me well....
LOL! Timmy, all I was saying was the comments on my videos isn't the best place to discuss fixing your game. :)
from mikesarcade Repair Logs
Problem: Constant loud thumping sound(?maybe AC buzz). Volume control has no effect
Solution: Electrolytic Capacitor C51 was open, 330uf @ 16V
those look like 194 wedge bulbs used in my toyota, 12v
It says part 4! :)
Yeah, calling them Trifurcon was an oopsy. They should be the bifuricated pins.
can you do a vid on the Sprint2 i see in the background? thats a game i want to get. cool old school stuff
Yeah, when I get it working I will. Right now the monitor is down.
John's Arcade Game Reviews & Tech thanks so much. cant wait to see how the steering wheel device works. they also made a Sprint8 for 8 players, probably only a few of those left in the world.
Wow, 8 players would be madness and HUGE. I can't wait to get Sprint 2 working!
Yeah, this vid is HARDCORE! :)
Light Bulbs Mini Marquee
194 Bulbs 14V wedge (5 needed)
arcarc.xmission lots info there :)
thanks a lot how can I determine its worth i have a mini Ms Pac-Man bye midway 1981 all original painting on decals vinyl sides engineered by Namco MFG bye Midway
+David Farr I dunno. Depends. They seem to sell for $600+
Bro You need to take a refresher course on how to use your volt meter. seriously.
How so? Please explain.
you just converted me and i purchased a MOLEX crimp tool
1:29:22
I am extremely confused with replacing edge connectors and I don't know the answer. Is it better to crimp the wires to the pins or solder the wires onto the pins? :(
The molex style pins are meant to be crimped. Not soldered. Watch the video! :)
Well, I bought a edge connector online and it has the pins already attach to the edge connect so I assumed I had to solder. I couldn't find one without the pins already attached.
Plus I require a 56-pin connector.
Well disregard that. I tend to overthink stuff. But I was also wondering if some ground pins have fallen off the edge connector if it would hurt anything or not. Pin 1 both on part and solder side of the edge connector have fell out. But my game turns on just fine. So I don't know if that's a good or bad thing.
Crimp, then solder will provide the best possible connection with hand crimpers. Just don't get any solder in the card edge contacts.
Great video, loving the progress and I am obviously behind on them because I'm sure you're done but now. Just wanted to suggest a secondary wire stripper that works good in tight situations. I have both styles and like them both for different scenarios.
Automatic Wire Stripper with Cutter www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KR95W/ref=cm_sw_r_an_am_at_ws_us?ie=UTF8
1:38:08! You say Part 5? I meant Part 4!
whoo thats a long video lol ;)
What's happening!?!? You should post in my forums on my site!
they have a mrs pac man cabaret working on ebay
wait PART 5
"This is NOT fun!" oh mercy that's so tedious and specific
No, that's a 4 actually.
I'm gonna address this soon, I think.
Oops! My mistake! :D
Pretty sure it's arcade Buffey not Arcade Buffet. Pronunciation.
Says Part 1 on the graphic...
don't you have air? air would be the easiest way to clean stuff.
Molex outsiders
this is 4 not 5
that looks nothing like pacman its just a bunch of wires...
When you want to show us something in front of the camera ( tools, parts, text) please don't shake it. It makes it very difficult to see what you want to show us.