So how did it work after you were all done? Do the arms drop or will they stay where you place them? If you have the arms up and use the loader do they drop then? Good video by the way! First time viewer.
In theory could I bolt my remote back on top of this block so I could use my remotes as have the loader hooked up at once? Right now my loader runs off the remote which is fine but my mower also uses remote which would be nice to be able to lift it and move loader at same time if needed when mowing
The adapter plate was from one of the major old tractor supply houses(I can't remember which one) The loader was installed the late 80s I'm not by the tractor to check the brand at the moment.
Did you ever get the loader working on this Tractor? I just bought a Ford 3000 with a loader and a PTO hydraulic pump. I want to run it off the tractor hydraulics instead and I think this plate is what I need.
Yes the loader works. The hydraulic system on these tractors is pretty poor imo and I'd rather have a stand alone system for the loader but the plate does work.
There are a few things that I don't love about it. 1. The sump is the rear axle so adding a loader has the potential to change the amount of fluid in the rear end a fair amount while working. 2. The pressure line uses some of the worst fittings I've ever run across. The early 3000s used a bolt on manifold rather than the rubber compression style. I think they changed around 70, the later style is bad IMO. It seems to work okay for the 3 point but I think the loader puts a little extra load on it. 3. It's slow.
I’m in a similar situation wanting to run a loader off the tractor. I have a single spool auxiliary remote plate on now and want to put the separator plate between them to run my loader. I see there is a plate with just pressure and return ports and another plate with power beyond, pressure, and return. I’m unsure which one I need. I hear of people having to chain down their 3 pt to get the loader work.
@@MikefromMissouri. I use the splitter block to run my Loader, The only thing is I cannot run the 3 point in Draft mode, I believe the block assembly stated so, However sometime after installation I decided to try it and broke a piece inside my hydraulic lift, I repaired it , but parts were hard to come by 2005 as compared to today and I used a part from an 8N ford. Maybe my adjustments were off , but everything works as it should except I don’t have draft ability, I am looking for a valve body that you can switch back & fourth from loader to 3 point. Hopefully that will restore draft availability
So how did it work after you were all done? Do the arms drop or will they stay where you place them? If you have the arms up and use the loader do they drop then? Good video by the way! First time viewer.
In theory could I bolt my remote back on top of this block so I could use my remotes as have the loader hooked up at once? Right now my loader runs off the remote which is fine but my mower also uses remote which would be nice to be able to lift it and move loader at same time if needed when mowing
Can you please tell me what kind of loader this is and where you got your plates?
The adapter plate was from one of the major old tractor supply houses(I can't remember which one) The loader was installed the late 80s I'm not by the tractor to check the brand at the moment.
Did you ever get the loader working on this Tractor? I just bought a Ford 3000 with a loader and a PTO hydraulic pump. I want to run it off the tractor hydraulics instead and I think this plate is what I need.
Yes the loader works. The hydraulic system on these tractors is pretty poor imo and I'd rather have a stand alone system for the loader but the plate does work.
@@macsgarage is it just slow? I really want to get rid of the PTO pump which is slow as well.
There are a few things that I don't love about it.
1. The sump is the rear axle so adding a loader has the potential to change the amount of fluid in the rear end a fair amount while working.
2. The pressure line uses some of the worst fittings I've ever run across. The early 3000s used a bolt on manifold rather than the rubber compression style. I think they changed around 70, the later style is bad IMO. It seems to work okay for the 3 point but I think the loader puts a little extra load on it.
3. It's slow.
I’m in a similar situation wanting to run a loader off the tractor. I have a single spool auxiliary remote plate on now and want to put the separator plate between them to run my loader. I see there is a plate with just pressure and return ports and another plate with power beyond, pressure, and return. I’m unsure which one I need. I hear of people having to chain down their 3 pt to get the loader work.
@@MikefromMissouri. I use the splitter block to run my Loader, The only thing is I cannot run the 3 point in Draft mode,
I believe the block assembly stated so, However sometime after installation I decided to try it and broke a piece inside my hydraulic lift, I repaired it , but parts were hard to come by 2005 as compared to today and I used a part from an 8N ford. Maybe my adjustments were off , but everything works as it should except I don’t have draft ability, I am looking for a valve body that you can switch back & fourth from loader to 3 point. Hopefully that will restore draft availability
this valve is for powering the loader?
Yes. It requires the use of control valves to control the accessory you hook to it.