My Geeetech acrylic Prusa i3 Pro B improvements
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- čas přidán 29. 01. 2018
- Decided to buy a cheap 3D printer to use it for learning and getting experience. I will design and build my own out of aluminium extrusions and this one will be used to print parts in the meantime. The printer is ready and working, but I have improved it in several aspects, but to be honest, even just out of the box was good enough to gain experience with. I would however not recommend it to anyone without a good ability to build things, even without instructions. Geeetech provides excellent service and support, but the buyer of this kit must be very handy and independent to be able to build this to a level of usability most people expect from a 3D printer.
Anyway, no regrets so far. The printer is working well and is actually remarkably fast after changing the power supply to 24V and especially after some of the other changes I made to it. This video is a summary of the changes I made.
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Nice mods!
I also have this printer and have just started using it. It works straight out of the box - I have skilled with constructing devices - but there are issues with accuracy and I hope to learn more about it before building my own 3D printer.
Great review! I have done the near equivalent of these modifications and more except for what you did for the Z axis. The only thing I have done for the Z axis is replace it with linear rods not threaded. Thanks for the video! Very resourceful. I will definitely have to do something similar lol.
Thank you very much.
Adapting Camera Np!
great z axis design :)
Thanks.
Thanks for the review it have many good tips..,❤️
Thank you for your comment.
Thank you for your comment.
My god!Pretty cool!
Great improves, can you show Marlin Firmware changes? thanks!
Hi. Thanks for your comment. The Marlin changes are pretty simple and straight forward. I have only changed the speeds and the part for the display in the Configuration.h file.
Hi. First of all nice video and nice mods.
Could you do step by step guides for these mods (except the Aluminium stuff which i can't get anyway)?
Hi, Thanks for the comments. I thought the video subtitles explained everything in pretty much detail, but I will try to make a write-up on the mods as soon as I have time. Any particular detail you are especially interested in?
Great video and love the Z axis design, was just wondering if you have an available stl for the fan holder as yours seems to be one of the easiest/ most practical I've seen. Thank you
@LuftWaffel Thank you for your comment. You, and everyone interested, can download the stl files related to the fan from here:
drive.google.com/drive/folders/1mtCymLSWquZ92HA11H9BH8ufp9DhwoeO?usp=sharing
@@AdaptingCamera Thank you very much for the quick reply 👍
this is great!
do you have a written up guide to the Z axis improvements?
I thought the video subtitles explained everything in pretty well, but I will try to make a write-up on the mods as soon as I have time. The Z changes are clearly shown in high detail in the video since it was the biggest and most important change.
they are pretty well explained, however components used, and any set up would be great.
looking at doing something to the z axis myself, but thread pitches etc for the screws is confusing!
ive read you need to modify the firmware and other things but i am absolute beginner
As far as I remember, the used material is mentioned. It is 50 x 5mm aluminium "L" profiles, 10mm Aluminium plates, 3 x 40 teeth GT2 pulleys, 9mm width GT2 848mm long timing belt, 2 x 8mm pillow blocks, 2 x 8mm bearings. The Z screws are changed for better quality, but I kept the original dimension, which is 8mm diameter with 1.25mm pitch, and since the three pulleys all have the same dimension, the steps per mm ratio is unchanged. The bearings fit exactly into the hole where the Z motors were originally placed.
Yeah, this is sort of detail that really helps, thanks.
Nice work!
What lenght of belt you used for this?
Is this GT2, 9mm width?
Thank you for your comment. The belt is GT2 9mm wide 848mm long with 424 teeth. The pulleys are 40 teeth, all three, so the gearing is 1:1.
excellent mod ideas here, some of which I'll be implementing on my own printer (same one) however we are in a dispute with Amazon at the moment and may have to return the printer as the X axis stepper motor is faulty and one of the Stepper control chips is faulty too... so straight out of the box we can't even use it. We'd been recommended the printer too as a birthday gift for our son. We're hoping to get it resolved asap.
Why is a parallel Z axis not such a great idea in favour of one? I'm a complete newbie to this 3D printing so real understanding of much yet.
Thanks for the comment. It's a bit complicated to explain unless you know something about electricity, but basically it is wrong to use one driver to two motors. Stepper motors should not be connected in parallel that way.
Hey mate how long did it take to assemble roughly never had to build one from ground up. It's definitely something I can do no worries however they're estimate of 8hrs assembly seems a bit of a stretch and it's honestly the only thing stopping me assembling it haha
Honestly, I don't remember how long it took to assemble it, but the printer came with a reasonably good installation manual and I also found installation videos.Also, how long it takes depends a lot on your own abilities also. Some people are unable to assemble a simple IKEA shelf with detailed instructions, so it is really impossible to say how long it would take for you. It is much more complicated than a simple IKEA book shelf, but for me it was a pretty simple straight forward operation, quite easy. Never the less, it took a few hours with all the parts plus the wiring. It also took some time to adjust all the angles and to level the printer. So it is definitely not a "plug-and-play" printer, if you want a very quick start you must buy a fully assembled printer.
I have one of these printers and was wondering what slicer u used for it
The slicer I am useing is Slic3r slic3r.org/download/
Surely someplace must sell an aluminium frame upgrade? ... I have the very same printer and have been looking for frame upgrades, would you happen to know of anywhere?,... please,.. I live in the UK.
I don't think it is economically feasible to sell this upgrade. It simply takes too many hours to make, if you can do it based on this video then fine, I have no possibilities to fix your 3D printer, not even if you would live next door. I think it would be cheaper to buy a brand new printer made out of aluminium, which may (or may not) be better than this plastic printer. Sorry. I made it just to learn how/what to think about and improve for my own 3D printer design. Never the less, I think if the acrylic printer is carefully and accurately assembled then it can be pretty good for home use.
Please I would like to know where the fan is connected to cool nozzle...
I already have a fan to cool but I do not know how to connect it to the card if you would help me you would
The GT2560 has four fan outputs, so you can chose any of those to connect the nozzle fan to. I have connected mine to the PWM fan output to be able to control the speed of the fan. Note that only one of the four fan outputs is PWM controlled, that is the one nearest the middle of the card.
I am Planning to Install External Mosfets. But where to connect the Control Port to?
I just wired the control port to the outputs of the GT2560, where you normally connect the extruder heating elements and the heated bed. I am running the 3D printer on 24V, not the original 12V, but that does not seem to be a problem.
Ah I see. Something special to add to the Firmware Config or is that everything i need to do?
For adding the MOSFETs there is no need to modify the firmware. Those are passive components so the firmware has no idea about those. Here I actually use 12V extruder and 24V bed, so another advantage of using the MOSFETs is that you can use higher or lower voltage, depending on the parts. In my next 3D printer build (my own design) I will use 24V extruders and heat bed and will run the steppers from 36V. :)
Adapting Camera very helpful. Thanks!
nice job i do same it is laik make new))))))))) need to change all parts))))))
Well, not really like making a new machine, it took me only a few hours to do these changes, but it is definitely much better after these changes.
Hi, shall I ask you a part list and if exist a web article?
Hi, I am sorry but I have no parts lists and have not documented this in more details.
Ohh, ok. Don't worry. Your ideas is brilliant I'll invent something to realize it
Thank you very much. Good luck, and if you need advise I can give you, just ask.
I forgot how noisy these were..
Stepper motors driving screws and nuts are always noisy. Also, it is an open build, and also using the noisy 4988 drivers. I don't know how much quieter it would be if I replaced those, but I don't find it disturbing. You should hear my CNC... czcams.com/video/m1zxi-BjIhc/video.html ...and it's even noisier when the spindle is running as well... czcams.com/video/ai95Er0rdNU/video.html
@@AdaptingCamera I have used a SKR 1.3 board and 2208 drivers, I have done that many upgrades to my A8 it's not even a A8 anymore. I got a frame laser cut too and put Linear rails on it. It prints lovely way better than it did.
@@InterplainMusic Thanks for the comments. Mine is also printing pretty good, even if you find it noisy. The noise is not disturbing, in real live you can hardly hear it outside my room, even with the door open. In the video it is not really fair. The only noisy move is the Z move, but that's very small during printing, so that's really a non-issue.
toooooo NOISY grrrrrrr ... more accurate !!!! don´t think so
its a Mile with an extruder lol
At that speed, metal screws and brass nuts... of course noisy. You don't believe it is more accurate, that's fine, believe what you want. I KNOW it is more accurate. Remember... das ist mein Drucker, nicht dein..?
M8 Spindel is Not good !acryl Frame is also Not good 20x40 Alu Profile is better.
M8 screws are not an issue, the issue is that they are flexing. When that flexing is stopped, and the screws are changed to higher quality STRAIGHT ones the M8 is no longer an issue. Acrylic is not very good, but for a 3D printer it is OK if you make the printer more rigid. The forces are low, but of course, aluminium profiles are better. My next printer is made from 30x30 and 30x60, as well as 15x120 profiles and uses 12 mm ball screws and MGN12 linear rails, so of course, that's much more rigid. Here is a video about that project. czcams.com/video/rouipbCCjuA/video.html