Will Dish Soap Make My Sawmill Cut Better?
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- čas přidán 22. 08. 2024
- Will dish soap make my sawmill cut better is a question I've asked myself over the last little while as I continue to pump out board foot after board foot of lumber on my portable sawmill. Today I finally test out the theory that a teaspoon of dish soap amongst a lubrication tank full of regular tap water will improve the cutting on my sawmill. I'll be cutting logs with straight tap water and dish soap and water as a sort of experiment today to finally answer the question. Check out the sound of the mill and the overall residue left on the sawmill blade before and after cutting to make the decision for yourself. If there's one thing I'm always looking for it's the perfect cut and today I'm hoping to get one step closer to the just that. If your out sawing lumber like I am, you may have your own ideas for the best type of lubrication for your sawmill cutting. Be sure to share that setup down below in the comments. Always a great day when we all can cut better. Happy sawing everyone! Here we go!
Sawmill shown in this video: 2017 Woodland Mills HM130
Blades used in this video: Lenox sawmill blades
Hi Sandy, in the Woodland Mills manual under the Equipment Operating section the following is quoted, "Add a 1/4 cup of liquid soap per full tank; add less if topping up a partially full tank. The soap helps keep the blade clean(er) when excess tree oils and sap are encountered. "
I have been following the process using my mill and haven't encountered any issues.
Exactly!!
Good to know Paul. Thanks for passing that along from the manual. Happy sawing.
Get out there and make some saw dust! My new mantra! Love it!
Don't think I've ever heard "groovy music" during one of your segments!! HAHA!! Nice touch!
i keep coming back to watch over.
it keeps coming back to me flow.
entertain the idea of sliding the scrap wrack to the left and rotate
the drying shed and slide it next to the scrap rack and close to the mill shed,
may need a short boardwalk or extend the deck.
may have to say a prayer for a couple of trees and promise them a better life
The dish soap is used to keep the blade from gumming up. The water is the coolent. Always used dish soap or pinesol but I use a lot more than a tea spoon.Who would want diesel on your wood. The most effective way to avoid the gum is to cut your trees in the winter. You shoudn't have much troble with gum on trees that size but on very large trees gum can be a huge problem with a small sawmill.
Good advice, but to answer your question on who would want diesel on their wood....people who don't like rot, bugs or woodworms would be my guess, we used to mix diesel and burnt oil to waterproof and bug proof old sheds made with sawmill lumber back in the day.
Man I envy you, the day's of me being able to bend down and stand up like that WITHOUT sound effects are long gone!!! Still love the videos though so keep them coming!!
I know exactly what you mean, Steve! Before I bend down now I've gotta look for something to hang on to so I can pull myself back up!
Did you guys see the post on WMs fb page where an 85 year old man just got his 130 because he needed another project? I'm 74 and just got my 126 for much the same reason. I suffered bad arthritis for years and now am nearly arthritis free because I did my research and learned how to beat it. At 72 I was doing as many as 700 full pushups a day. Unfortunately I took a bad fall on black ice on a walkway which set me back a bit but I'm beating it. Research beating inflammation on CZcams. Lots of great free info from some amazing doctors on there. All natural. Never give up guys.
@@fiskfarm exactly...don't let the old man in:)
Funny you say that, I'll be 66 in a couple months, lost an arm in the coal mines in 89, contracted terminal neck cancer 15 years ago and was told when I quit "treatments" that I would die within 2 weeks.
I've been chainsaw milling lumber for the past 8 years and next monday my Frontier OS 27 bansaw mill will be delivered ha, I'm like a kid right now on Christmas eve, bout to piss my pants I'm so excited HAHAHA.
@@tennwalt wow that is awesome!!
How's the bandsaw working out?
I got a woodmizer l15...haven't used yet...new hip 14 days ago at 60yrs old...
Thanks for that live experiment. I've been wondering the same thing. It's good to have it confirmed.
Thanks Paul. Glad you tuned in. All the best
Yeah, that seemed to work better with the soap. Your hands are silky smooth and it cleaned up all your sludge dishes too! Nice.🙂
It's a win win win all around!
I've cut only hardwoods with my HM126, beginning with my new saw last year. Red and white oaks up to 16" wide. I used 1/4 cup per manual...disaster. Even cutting slow, the resistance from the wood caused the highly lubricated blade to slip on the drive belt and badly stain the wood, not to mention the cleanup of the boards required. I use only water, just enough to cool blade, cut slow and works perfect. These are not sappy woods though.
Right, the soap is only for more sappy wood. It’s intended to keep the sap from sticking to the blade and the getting onto the belts, guides, etc. You only need water with less-sappy hardwoods.
Hi Sandy yes josh at Woodland Mills explains that the dish soap in the water cuts the surface tension of the water on the blade this allows the water to fully cover the entire blade top and bottom You were getting a bit smoother cut but what I really noticed was Your mixture flocked Your sawdust causing it to fly 2 to 3 feet further out from Your platform therefore the teaspoon of soap You added was an excellent blend Thank You for Your sharing Your Knowledge with Us All!
I have been using dawn dish soap and a little Pine-Sol, blad stays clean through all that sappy southern yellow pines.
Good to know. Thanks for passing that along Matthew!
Yup Pinesol here too. Smells great too👍😎👌
I saw a fair amount of Ash and it's absolutely horrible for build up on the blade .. I find a mixture of Water, Dish soap and pine sol , works great for keeping the blades clean. Another great Video Sandy, keep them coming
I suggest put first soap then water it will mix better I think- subscriber from Ontario
I use diesel fuel and chain oil mixed half and half to cut white pine. But I only use a squirt when the gum starts sticking to the blade. A cup full will last all day. Love your setup Sandy.
Thanks for sharing your experiences. Great to hear you like my setup. Hope all is well with you and happy sawing!
A big squeeze of dish soap is what I use every tank, don’t need pinesol at all, my blades have never gotten dirty or sticky. Great job!
Great to hear that Russel. Always nice to hear what others have found useful.
Like all the different cutting angles. Good Job
Hand sanitizer works like magic for getting sap off my hands and clothes, I think it's the isopropyl alcohol in it that works. I'm going to try adding a bottle of red Heet to my tank to see if that helps with the pitch.
That's not a bad idea. Be sure to update me as I'd like to know how that works. All the best
Well, alcohol may be a good solvent for sap, however the detergent serves not as a cleaner in this function, but as a surfactant. That means it lowers the surface tension of water, allowing it to sheet, or spread evenly, along the blade, as opposed to droplets that bounce on and fall off of the blade. The water is wetter, essentially. This is the purpose of adding detergent to water for blade lubricant.
If you add alcohol to the water, you actually make the problem worse by dissolving and spreading thin the sap in the wood.
I use dawn dish soap and it works great.
I"ll have to try that next in case there's a difference in brand
Interesting comparison Sandy, from what I've read the soap is added to keep the blade clean rather than for lubrication. I find that a mix of dishsoap and Pine-Sol help keep the pitch off the blade when cutting softwood trees, windshield washer fluid for the Canadian winter works well to keep things from freezing. Thanks and keep the videos coming!
I've been using soap as part of my lubrication since buying my mill in 2016 and have had no problems.
A lot of sawyers use Pine Sol... especially for Doug Fir in our area....B.C.
Good to know Dave. I’ll be sure to try it out
It doesn't take much, I would say a quarter of a cup or a bit less per tank. It makes the pine smell even stronger lol. I wouldn't use it on any other woods though. I used it while cutting cherry and it ruined it's fragrance
I use pine sol on spruce and pine works great.
Maybe putting the soap in first would help it mix more with the water and provide even better lubrication. Though I suppose the shaking of the mill itself would mix it enough. Great vid as always Sandy!
I agree that’s a better idea. Thanks for tuning in again Steve
I use dish soap as an emulsifier when spray weeds and decided to put soap in before water. Big mistake. When I put the water in first I had so many suds I had to dump it out and start over. Dish soap is heavier than water so it should sink to the bottom of the tank and the vibration from the mill should mix it up good enough. Hope this was helpful, have a great day!
I put some Pinesol in the water to help keep the blades clean with softwoods (mostly white pine).
what i found works really good is Finnish dishwasher soap tablets , I put one tablet in a 5 gal tank of water , now to be fair I've only sawed fir and spruce with this soap , some pretty gummy logs though and the blade is always sparkling clean they come in individually wrapped tablets , peel the wrapper off and drop it in the tank , it will dissolve as you run the mill.
If you do use diesel fuel , 1 drop about every 8 seconds , it works really good but will eat away at the belts , you don't smell it on the wood but smell it on everything else ,
Thanks for the lube tips.. Ya i am going to steer clear of the diesel idea just for the factors of environmental issues. I hear it works great though. I have a creek not to far from my mill set up, and don't want to take any chances on pollutants in the creek. Thanks for sharing, and keep us posted on extended use results and thoughts. Be safe..
I agree 100% with the environmental issues. I also wouldn't want to contaminate my soil or water with anything. Glad you liked the video and appreciate you tuning in.
Just the constant smell of the diesel while cutting would rule it out for me, but even without the smell, there’s no way I’d be splashing raw diesel onto my wood and on the ground.
Y’all’s are saying environmental. Forget that. Expensive. Oil as lube would run the operation prices way up. It would be higher than fuel cost.
Sandy, something you may want to try as cutting pine there is a lot of sap...On my Timber King 1600, I use water with 100% pure D-Limonene Citrus Orange oil extract. I mix this liberally with the water. It cuts the sap and smells great. Buy it on Amazon. One 22oz bottle typically last for two tank fills.
Hey Sandy I have been meaning to mention to you that I have found I need to use compressed air to blow the wet sawdust off particularly the blade guides when putting my mill to bed after a few hours of cutting. Otherwise the blade will get rust pits however small at these points and I rotate the blade and blow off the inside of the blade as well. Otherwise those small pits can cause weak spots and could well be the cause of your mystery blade failures when the blade breaks for no apparent reason. I know you dont have power out at the mill but you could bring an air tank filled at the shop. I will always do this on my 126 for sure. I was amazed how those spots will still be wet days later otherwise. Happy sawing everyone👍😎👌
I agree Sandy on all the flammable should not be used.
It specify in the manual for my mill too. Good job on the video!..
Glad you liked the video Dan. In my red pine forest I also like to avoid anything flammable wherever possible. The thought of fire is a scary thought
I've used dawn dish soap in my OS 27 mill for years and haven't had a bit of problems with any species of wood.
I use about a 1/8 cup to 2 gallons of water. Keeps the blade clean and adds a bit of extra lubrication to the process.
Good vid. Keep up the good work!
Lubrication is important in so many things in life. Bearings for example (just to save the dirty minds from going there). Black flys are out here up north too. Perhaps if you get the soap mixture just right the mill will make bubbles as you cut. That would be cool...lol.
haha bubbles at the sawmill. Now that would be a unique setup
I use about 2 cups of dish soap for a full tank of water and it works great on pine and fir as well as hard wood
I never experienced a better quality cut with dish soap in the water tank, but it did not hurt anything either (I do agree tho how it makes the blade seem more polished or cleaner from tree sap and push thru a touch easier). We tried anti-freeze and water with a little dish soap in the freezing winter and that seemed about the same; and just used plain water during warmer weather. Seems like the real thing is to help the blade cool so as not to pop the weld where the blade is factory joined. About half of the blades I destroyed broke at the weld if I pushed the saw too fast in dense knotty wood and made the blade get hot when the water flow wasn't working. The solid way this machine is built the blade stays contained inside the metal shield and just made a loud noise. You can change the blade in a couple minutes so buy extras to have on hand. In the winter, we had good luck also simply not using any water and just cutting a little slower ... "taking it easy".
Resharpening your blade does make a tremendous difference to the quality of cut.
Blade tooth setting or tuning also is a major difference to get the crazy teeth realigned for a smoother and faster cut. But after about 4 hours of run time, I typically go out with an angle grinder and just eyeball sharpen all the teeth real fast and back in business cutting. The Woodloand's Mill blade sharpening system is a future investment that will recondition and resharpen in a much more precise way.
So, hope this helps. THANK YOU SANDY for helping us all with your smart videos. Keep on - keeping' on.
Always welcome Don
More videos where have you been glad to see you GOD BLESS
Thanks for tuning in. Be sure to check out the videos section of my channel to see my other videos. All the best
That's serious wood dust making! Love it ! Great videos, been watching off an on for months and finally decided to buy myself one thanks to you and your well detailed videos.
I started working in a sawmill in 1982. The first one shut down in 1994. I started millwrighting in 1987 and never looked back. The 2nd mill I started at 3 days after the one shut down in 1994. Millwrighted until a fusion made me sit at a desk ordering parts. We had a double cut vertical head rig with a 12" x 42 foot band and a horizontal resaw with 11" x 36 foot band. The saws had to have water sprayed on for coolant and keep pitch from building up on the wheels. Too much water would float saws off the wheel and we had to cut out the accordion shaped broken saw out. (I loved the rush of it). We also had a small 4" wide vertical resaw for cutting 1x4's. It had a little diesel cup on it that used less than a quart a day on 8 hour shift.
Our multi saw board edger had a water spray on the 26" round saws every minute or 2. The gang saw had 21" saws that used a water with oil misted in to cool and keep pitch down. We had oil salesmen that tried straight water soluble oil that was way more expensive than the mix. On my second fusion now and still dream of smelling sawdust again...
Sounds like a great experience over the years. Glad you shared with use here at the channel. Hope things are well and all the best
I cut a lot of large pine logs that are real sappy. The dish detergent helps but the smelly diesel fuel has to be used to keep the pitch off the blade. While cutting hard woods the dish detergent is very good.
By the way i like your slab cutting rack, think I will build on like that. Thanks for the idea.
Thanks for passing along what works for ya Kent. Glad you like the slab rack. Happy sawing!
Hi Sandy... I do not own a sawmill at this time... but just thinking that the soap / oily solutions to lube the blade etc. Would not mix well in the tank since they float over water. If you could add a soap line to connect to the water line ( let’s say midway ) that could be calibrated like an IV solution bag at the hospital. it would do the trick in a more consistent manner. You probably know your water flow. Also this can help you to calculate ratios : i know there is approx. 15 drops/ ml. if it was water. Soap being a thicker solution many have a lesser number per ml .
Cheers..... Yvon
Awesome job Sandy.
Josh at Woodland Mills tells that soap breaks the surface tension and the water is ''pulls'' inside the cut. I don't understand exactly what it means but I use soap myself as recommended. Josh said 1/4 of a cup per tank. Diesel fuel or kerosene will ruine the belt band worst than that the material on the idler wheel.
Thanks for passing that along Denis. Good to hear.
I use dish soap, too. My only gripe is that if you let it sit too long, the dish soap hardens in the tank lines.
I always use dish soap, a bit more than that (I never measure) also when I'm cutting any sort of Pine I use Pine-sol, it really helps with keeping the blade clean. Happy sawing bud
Down here in New Hampshire we put a bit of Vick’s vapor rub under the brim of our hat to keep away the black flies
Hey Sandy thanks for all the content! I’m in the market for a mill and your channel MAY have convinced me a hm130max may be in my near future. I was skeptical at first but now I see the value and build quality in them.
Btw, next time mix the soap into the water better for best results! Warm water makes it easier! My .02.
Morning Sandy, I use 1/4 cup of dish soap for a washer fluid jug. I have found it helps a lot for the Tamarack I cut. Anyways heading out to the saw here shortly, have a great day!
The mechanics behind how a saw blade cuts can be improved with some additives to reduce friction. On your test of two beams you saw a different in the blade finish as to being cleaner with the soap added, but, the real difference is in the sawdust on how well it exists the blade, as the blade becomes worn and the tooth offset is lessened, that narrows the cut producing finer sawdust putting more friction on the blade, then the straight cleaning tooth can’t handle the finer sawdust and the friction is increased causing the blade to get hot requiring more cooling. This is more noticeable on bigger diameter hardwood logs. IMO soap helps in the short term on new or resharpened blades with tooth offset , but once the blade teeth lose offset it doesn’t do anything to make the cut easier, so, just increase the lube a bit for better cooling until its changed out.
Lots of good detail here. Thanks for sharing your experiences William
I just noticed this one. Perhaps you could touch on this note again. Let me know in a recent video if you are still doing this. Thanks.
I laugh at the complaint of feul prices - double now! I agree, no to feul in tank. I don't think I want to smell diesel fumes while I am sawing, nor my wood smelling like it too. Think slabwood in the sun afterwards. Perhaps it would have helped with those bugs though. lol.
Hi EA, Yeah crazy to think that the fuel is now twice the cost since this video came out. I do like just having pure water in the tank
Nice work. The mill should have soap in it per all mill manufactures recommendations but I think it also goes faster if I’m not seeing things. I’d assume blade can move quicker. Less friction less heat less tooth wear and won’t get dull. Probably get another sharpening per blade because it is kept cooler.
Only issue I find with the soap is it causes my sawmill blade to jump off if too much is used
My mill should be here towards the end of July. It will be my first bought mill as the other two were homemade but I am excited! Soap was an issue for my homemade mills because the band would slip on the pneumatic tires so mostly I went dry or with water only. I didn't cut any real sappy wood other than cedar but it did cause some pitch buildup mostly in the gullet even with plain water.
Bet you're happy to be getting closer to July with your next mill coming. Good to hear from someone with experience using the soap. Hope your new saw setup goes smoothly when it comes. Thanks for watching Steve
Love the saw mill shed.Really like the wood floorYou obviously put a lot of thought into it..Man,I need to redesign mine!
I haven't seen the end yet but if you were to add the soap first, then add the water after, the water would mix the soap in evenly. By adding the soap later it won't mix but slowly disperse not giving an even mix.
Dawn, Pinesol, water/windshield washer fluid.
I bet running Sthill bar oil on it would work well. Maybe spendy depending on how much you use up, but it is made to keep sap off the bar and blade. After 8 years of running Sthill saws, I have never had sap problems on my bar or chain. Or really the whole damn chainsaw, on my hands and hair gets sap stuck to em.
I like using pine-sol. It works well on the pitch. I use about 16 ounces per tank.
I like the fool-proof part where mixing it into water is effortless. If you don’t mix dish soap well, it either clogs up valves or simply isn’t dissolved into the water. Pine-sol is already a liquid.
Great video Sandy. I've always used dishwashing detergent in my water (or windshield washer fluid in winter). I find that it really helps keep the blade clean and pitch free (worst has to be spruce or pine fell in summer). I let it drip as I cut and increase flow if pitch build up begins. I go by ear....As you probably know, the big telltale is the chip,cip,chip sound the blade makes as soon a s any pitch starts sticking to it. As soon as I hear that sound, I increase the drip to clean it off ASAP otherwise the pitch cooks to the blade due to friction heat and good luck trying to salvage that mess. Well, that is what I believe and do ...cheers
I have my saw mill for over 6 years and i have been using dish soap from the beginning if the log itself is very green pine, spruce or fur there is a lot of sap in them then i but more soap and used more water if your blades stays clean your machine don;t work as hard your blades don't get hot your belts stay cleaner and last longer so yes I am a firmed believer on the soap if you want a easy way to fix your road collect your saw dust and level it out on the worst spot first if it work in the Florida swamp it should work in Canada to
I use dawn and it helps keep the build up off the blade and it seems to work, the blade have a lubrication and they don't seem to get as hot. Good video. Use at least 1 to 2 ounce if it really sappy or green.
Great tips and thanks for passing that along. Happy sawing
liquid soap makes water wetter so should help with the blade, thanks Sandy for another cracking video.
Good to know. Thanks again for watching Jimmy
Good to see you out at the sawmill. I need to get sawing myself. The backlog of projects that take priority is being worked on.
I add the dish soap in my water jug before filling up completely so it mixes better. Also, on real sappy wood I add a bit of pinesol to help cut the pitch.
I like that idea Chris. Think I"ll be doing that from here on out. Thanks forr watching
The only guy that can cut a 6x6 out of a 5 inch fence post :)
I’m magic
@@sawingwithsandy You sure is
Great video Sandy.
I'm going to try out the soap on my mill to cut the oak logs. I don't have a lot of pine tree to mill mainly hard woods.
Thanks for helping me learn about sawing my own log's.
Just finished my first project with my milled wood .I build my cattle barn 40'x40' . thanks again Bobby
Glad I could help and thanks again for tuning in.
Hey Sandy. I've been using the Orange Palmolive since day one - hmmm, I thought I got that idea from you. I like the scent of the orange Palmolive mixed with the fresh cut cedar lumber. Premix it in containers ready to go, and don't be so cheap with the soap either, give the water some colour. Cheers.
I wouldn't use diesel or kerosene because they're corrosive. Not only will it ruin the paint and subsequently the metal underneath will rust and degrade, but also attacks the bearings. So yes you should stick with water. Personally I'd put the soap in before the water just so it mixes better. Not a big deal since the vibrations of the mill will mix it good enough for all intents and purposes
I think you're right about putting the soap in first. I'm going to start doing that from now on. Thanks for tuning in. Hope all is well
Check out OTW he’s been using diesel for lube when cutting pine. Mike at Outdoors with the Morgan’s uses water pinesol and dawn dishwashing liquid. Love your videos!
One of the biggest things a a soap does is its a surfactant, it breaks the water tension of water allowing it to better lay on a surface and not bead up. I use dish soap in my coolant (Norwood HD36) although I dont measure the amount of soap I just give it a good squeeze per fill up.
Thanks for passing that info along. Good to know the real reason it works as they say it does. Sounds like you've got a nice mill setup. Happy sawing!
Cook's Sawmill uses diesel, but Cook's blades ride directly on the wheels, not on rubber belts or plastic tires.
That's good to know. Always wondered about Cook's. Thanks for sharing
I would assume adding anything to the water contaminates the wood for future finish application, particularly a Petroleum Distillate product.
That's a good question. I'm not too sure what would happen as I don't tend to use my wood for furniture making. Wondering if others have experience with this. I figure I could just rinse off any residue from the wood if there was any that remained if I wanted to add a finish to it.
Shouldn't you add the soap first, then the water? Plus, I wonder if a floor squeegee hinged to the saw frame on the motor side would at least help clear the buildup of sawdust on the deck? Or maybe just a tin duct extension attached to the saw guard?
I've seen/read several different liquids used on the blades, and I've also seen the liquid called "coolant" and "lubricant". I'm actually kinda curious which it actually is, what purpose does it serve. Is it meant to keep the blade cool to prevent expansion and therefore prevent changing blade tensions during operation? Or is it meant as a lubricant to allow the blade to pass more easily into the wood being cut? Personally I tend to think it's the former.
Expanding a bit tho, I know that fats & oils help to dissolve tree saps & resins that would otherwise gum up a blade. I've seen some manufacturers recommend using diesel or kerosene as the blade lubricant. I think when I have my setup running, I might experiment with a variety of liquids to see how different liquids perform across a number of timber types.
Sounds like a good plan trying out a variety.
Pine-Sol cleaner works best for pitch.
I use cheap soap from the dollar store but I definitely use more than a teaspoon. I put a whole cup for every 5 gallons
Hey Sandy, thanks for the vids , I'll be in the market very soon for a Mill (Been saving my pennies & making notes from your show) Just a thought for your bridge between the Mill & the log rack. What if you used a bit of rope treaded through holes drilled about 50mm in from the end of the log rack & the log you use as the bridge (Like a hinge) When your not using the bridge, have a way to hold it up quickly & easily from the rafter at 90 degrees to the log rack. Just a thought, Cheers from Aus
Mike Morgan with outdoors with the Morgan's use a mixture of dish soap pine sol and water during summer and winter use the same mixture but with windshield washer fluid. Watch some of his videos to see what I saying. When I get my saw mill I plan on water with dish soap. Winter is SC is not as hard on equipment as where you are. Have a great day be safe.
Sounds like a good mixture. Thanks Arthur
Thanks Sandy for the info. Very helpful. I cut almost entirely spruce. I will try adding a bit of soap next fill-up
Let me know if you notice a difference Bill. Happy cutting
Gordon here, Just wondering is that a cam locking set-up you have for log dog set up. Also must add that owing your own bandmill to make lumber is the way to go with the prices even up here in Canada as you said, for me in Alberta it is a cost saving investment.
Now that you have owned two mills, which system do you prefer? The level deck/walking area as in this video with this mill or the newer mill on the trailer and having your walking area down from the saw,ill deck?
My thoughts if I may! I hope you don't mix your gas for your chain saw That way as you will probably will be putting a new piston and jug in it! I would use maybe a soup spoon of soap and put it into a jug and actually shake it up so it consistently mixed threw the water! ah ah But I do enjoy the videos regardless. Your doing a good job Sandy! Try it this way and see if it makes a bit better difference. It is like your making ten pancakes and using one drop of syrup. Well the syrup will be their but will it change the taste of the pancakes? Maybe!
I think I"ll give this a try in the future Marc. Thanks for sharing.
Hey Great video as always ... Mike Morgan uses pine sole I think. Worth lookin into. Thanks again. Craig. Pa.
Thanks for watching Craig
I'd use a minimum 1/4 cup of detergent and a minimum 1/4 cup of bug repellent in the summer... :)
I'll be sure to try going up and down a bit with the soap to see if there's a difference as I go just in case. Thanks for tuning in. Happy sawing
the scenery looks amazing.. also looks like the kind of place bears would find amazing too - has a bear ever stumbled upon you?
No black bears I've seen out here. They are around though for sure as I"ve seen tracks
in my manual Hm122 it says to use 1/4 cup of dish soap per tank ps i did not read the comments as i can others have commented sjorry
Good job. Thank you.
Thanks for watching Thomas!
Fix the bumps don't slow down.didn't spill the sludge good job.still have to have some fun buddy.
Guys in the South use diesel fuel set to drip one drop at a time, slowly, on the blade.
I used soap for the first mth or so and switched straight to water and have not used soap in over a year. I like it better without.
Hey buddy how are ya? It’s good to see ya havin fun with your golf cart, zipping through the forest hehehehe. Those are some good looking 6x6 s. I like the look of a lil bark on the corners, live edge look to things. Kinda more rustic. I’m still trying to figure out what saw mill to get, I’m still leaning towards the hm130max woodlander. I just gotta figure out how to quarter saw with the limited throat depth of 7 inches. Was thinking to cut from bottom and flip the the quarters, but don’t have enough throat. I guess I’ll have to make a fIxture to top cut and flip. Any way have a great day thanks foe sharing your wisdom with us. God bless you and yours.
Yeah I like a soft corner with a little bark as well. For those logs they were a bit small for full length 6x6 but I had planned on cutting off a bit anyways since I only needed 10'. It's always a tough decision when looking for a sawmill with so many options out there. You're plan sounds like it would work well with the limited throat depth. Whatever milll you choose you'll be happy out cutting I'm sure. Thanks again for tuning in each week, hope all is well
Hard to believe that small of amount could make any difference but if it does that would be a cheap lubricant for sure. I’m confident that kerosene or diesel wouldn’t work since they don’t normally mix with water
I guess I can think of it as if I'm washing dishes and how I have a big sink of water and only a little bit of soap. I"ll adjust the soap up and down in the future to see if I can find the perfect balance and let everyone know.
Long time listener, first time caller (always wanted to say that!!!!). So I stumbled across your channel and have been binge watching for the last couple of weeks of so. Awesome content!!! After Last year, when I cut a 4 foot diameter Rock Maple into lumber (both the trunk and limbs) using a chainsaw and a $30 attachment that clamps to the bar, I decided it was time to start my research into getting a mill. I have been contemplating getting a Mill for some time now and I am FINALLY saving up for the HM126.
I have seen several other sawyers do this and I am curious to know why you do not make several passes with your mill before removing the cut pieces from the top of the log. It would seem to me, doing it that way would reduce the amount of movement you are doing and increase your productivity, especially since you would then be able to move, say, 2 cut 2x6's at a time onto your dry pile instead of just one.
Andy
Gardners, PA
I meant from the top of the cant, not log. That's one of the things I learned from watching your channel. I could never understand why they called it a CANT hook, when obviously it DOES hook.
Watched some channel that use diesel for saw lub they say it not stain the the wood but works really well especially with sappy/picthy wood and it works well in winter dont know if they treated for cold operations to keep from jelling
I've heard that as well. I may have to do more reading up on diesel as a lubricant. Thanks for tuning in Robert
Hi Sandy what is the length of logs you can cut . Do you have any extensions on the mill?
I find dish soap clogs up the needle valve in the water tank. Always need to clean the gunk out at the beginning of every day. Maybe I'm using too much soap
I use about a half a cup of dish soap to one gallon
Looks like the black flies are having a party.
I would say have more coffee with the fly's. That's what I would do. LOL
I heard pine sol works good too. Never use any type of oil .
I'll have to try out some pine sol. Sounds like many people like to use it as well.
Do you thin to put A ewly sharpened blade on before you made your cuts, or wood that matter?
I think that it would be best to compare with a newly sharpened blade for the new lubricant but I think the difference wouldn't be too noticeable.
To be honest I was kind of surprised that you didn’t use dish soap from the very beginning so I’m pretty sure I saw it in one of the videos on Woodland Mills site but also what I heard too is that it helps with the pitch for once like that but I also heard that it helps the water to stop From running off of the blade but yeah I still haven’t received mine my mail yet I’m hoping it comes soon really excited to get using it I wish I lived a little closer so I could go pick it up but I think that’s actually been shipped and manufactured I don’t think they had any on hand because it’s been so long I think I ordered it on April 20 so it’s been over a month and they’re saying that it should be here by July 31 I’m hoping it comes a lot sooner than that
I think this was one of those things that I likely should have been doing for a long time but it never crossed my mind since my saw was cutting so well. Hope your mill gets here soon and that you'll be out putting up dust in no time.
@@sawingwithsandy sorry for the bad grammar and spelling are use voice to text on my phone so it ends up weird sometimes but I’m sure you can understand what I’m saying and please read this and Yeah I’ll let you know when it comes in and how it works for me I must thank you I thought about getting a meal I don’t know but it figures back but I talked myself out of it because of the price but we bought 40 acres in Dryden Ontario in about 28or 30 acres of it is mature trees Black poplar Fur Cedar Spruce I’m in a handful of mature Burch yeah because of your videos and the price of lumber and my dad leaving me some money before he passes with Cancer I bought the Woodlands 130 max so I want to thank you for making high-quality videos really help me believe I’d be able to do it yeah we have like I said the 40 acres On Lake Wabigoon where we were going to be building our house and then down the line make a couple smaller houses on the lake and sell them off for our retirement early retirement because once I have the land paid off which was only 40,000 the mill that I paid cash and My boat which I’m going to be fish guiding with and a little dozer that comes with her six way dozer blade and a front and loader and a 8 foot excavator off the back sorry I was in the next five years at the most I’m hoping to make enough living off my property and my boat but I don’t have to work a full-time job anymore Land taxes are only like 300 and it’s an unorganized Township which means no permits no building codes so all the wood I cut I can use the stuff I’m gonna cut for my house I’m going to air dry of course before I use it or build solar kiln So once again thank you Sorry if there’s any weird grammar or miss spelt words are use voice to text on my phone so that’s why it’s weird
"CLEANER CUT" ...is what I would expect.
I believe this is an underappreciated joke.
I've always used dish soap but heard of a guy using a bit of pine sol on high pitch wood...
I think I"ll have to give a bit of Pine Sol a try next.
Slower down speed racer! I like the dish soap idea. Using diesel or antifreeze is just not an option for me as I have pets. Plus I would hate for that stuff to go into the ground. Bummer its black fly season. Maybe wear your face shield next time. 👋👍✌
What is the handle for underneath the crank that adjust the height.
Great question Jerry. It’s for the lap siding attachment