Excellent pro tip! I put in a rebuild kit in an HSR 42 I got from a guy that was real crusty inside. After the new components were installed, I set the air screw, idle, and accelerator screws. Then this thing starts pissing out the overflow. So per the mikuni manual I cleaned the float needle area and re confirmed proper float level. Put it all back together and it pissed all over the floor again. I was getting ready to chunk this thing in the trash! I found your video, de-burred the brass needle set, and IT WAS MAGICAL. Thanks a million!!
Good looking out, bro! Was having this same annoying issue and first thing I noticed: ALOT of people on the forums are having the same issue! lol Thanks for taking the time to make the vid.
*I STRONGLY disagree*. The Titanic sank due to brittle fracture of the iron plates when struck by an iceberg. Fatigue cracking causes many disasters, including the 1842 Versailles train crash, the 1919 Boston molasses tank rupture, and the 1998 Eschede train derailment in Germany that killed 101 people, not to mention the many airplane and building collapses due to this. Furthermore, the World Trade Center towers are known to have collapsed due to the softening of the metal structure from intense heat and a lack of fire-retardant coatings. And finally, the most common and significant problem with metal parts is their susceptibility to galvanic corrosion (i.e. rust) when exposed to water, salt, and moist air -- a major issue in the longevity of bridges, vehicles, roads, pipelines, buildings, ships, farm equipment, firearms, electrical parts, plumbing parts, and electronics. Your statement is laughably inaccurate and should be retracted.
thanks for this hsr42 on my evo has been doing this for a bit fitted new needle and seat same thing pulled the seat out cleaned it with fine wet and dry paper and problem fixed thanks for the video just done over a 1000ks now and not a problem so thanks again
I bent the float tab twice even tho it never used to leak & it still did. About to go fix it proper ;) just did it on bike there was shit in the orifice like a piece dental floss also filed the holes lower edge by hand with a 2mm drill bit.
That’s a good idea mine piss’s sometimes when stopped has to shut off the gas but more times she’s fine. I took bowl off and set the float still the same then I thought maybe I had the float upside down but I bet that’s the issue I gota take it apart again and check that thanks brother
I got the same annoying leak issue. In my HSR42 carb, the float was almost blocked by the retainer screw. It's a design mistake, the molded support is not deep enough, hence if you tighten the screw it will block the axis. It may happen on a new carb!! .... Solution: I have milled 0.3mm off the axis with a Dremel (where the screw head was touching) and now the float can move up and down freely
Interesting idea. I wonder if this is the issue with my VM30SS on my '74 F11. I can hit the carb and it'll stop pissing gas, but soon after it just starts again. I'm fucking tired of messing with it.
Interesting, I have another problem, my float and float needle are working fine, also tested with water on the dining room table, shuts off perfectly, but as soon as I plug in the carburettor the fuel continues to flow from the main jet bleed channel going to the air filter, I would almost believe that this dmp shit has to be mounted at an angle so that the gasoline does not flow out. am also busy adjusting what does not really want with this dmp, now the scooter pulls hard with the throttle needle at the lowest position, so clip on the end of the throttle needle. air screw all the way in, main jet 80 and choke all the way out. they say that I drive with my choke on means that it gets less air which means more fuel, but it seems to me that it gets more air and fuel when I look at the technique of the carburettor also because of the choke jet and the rear air ducts that open when choke is open. set up, original delimited air filter aprilia sr2000 with air filter oil. standard 50cc return laser x pro exhaust 17.5mm carb DMP Shit. transmission complete stage 6 6 valve diaphragm
WTH R U serious? How did you pull that brass fitting out??? I think my valve shutoff needle is just too dmmn short. And my float is entirely plastic with no bendable metal tab so it's not adjustable, so I'm up shlt creek without a paddle.
My carburetor has 2 venting lines, top n bottom, where do i connect those to.? Also bottom one leaks gas.? Is that normal.? Solution.? My carburetor is also leaking fuel kinda where the air filter goes. Please help
Man it's guys like you that keep guys like me from going absolutely crazy! Thank you.
this fixed my problem ...it's hard to believe a company like Mikuni's quality control would miss something like this !
probably cheap aftermarket stuff
Excellent pro tip! I put in a rebuild kit in an HSR 42 I got from a guy that was real crusty inside. After the new components were installed, I set the air screw, idle, and accelerator screws. Then this thing starts pissing out the overflow. So per the mikuni manual I cleaned the float needle area and re confirmed proper float level. Put it all back together and it pissed all over the floor again. I was getting ready to chunk this thing in the trash! I found your video, de-burred the brass needle set, and IT WAS MAGICAL. Thanks a million!!
Thank you, I was at a complete loss after the first repair . Fixed ,no parts required. You are the man
I was losing my mind!! This fixed it!!! Super happy now. Thanks!!!
Good looking out, bro! Was having this same annoying issue and first thing I noticed: ALOT of people on the forums are having the same issue! lol
Thanks for taking the time to make the vid.
Thanks for sharing, I think my carb has this problem... Very annoying! Your time and effort are very much appreciated!
Excellent catch bro!!
Casting flash and burrs are almost always the root of the problems with metal parts.
Thanks for sharing by the way!
Larry
Thanks man...
*I STRONGLY disagree*. The Titanic sank due to brittle fracture of the iron plates when struck by an iceberg. Fatigue cracking causes many disasters, including the 1842 Versailles train crash, the 1919 Boston molasses tank rupture, and the 1998 Eschede train derailment in Germany that killed 101 people, not to mention the many airplane and building collapses due to this. Furthermore, the World Trade Center towers are known to have collapsed due to the softening of the metal structure from intense heat and a lack of fire-retardant coatings. And finally, the most common and significant problem with metal parts is their susceptibility to galvanic corrosion (i.e. rust) when exposed to water, salt, and moist air -- a major issue in the longevity of bridges, vehicles, roads, pipelines, buildings, ships, farm equipment, firearms, electrical parts, plumbing parts, and electronics. Your statement is laughably inaccurate and should be retracted.
Same thing happened to me saw this video thank you fixed it runs great no leaks
thanks for this hsr42 on my evo has been doing this for a bit fitted new needle and seat same thing pulled the seat out cleaned it with fine wet and dry paper and problem fixed thanks for the video just done over a 1000ks now and not a problem so thanks again
I never thought about that,your a genius.
I bent the float tab twice even tho it never used to leak & it still did. About to go fix it proper ;) just did it on bike there was shit in the orifice like a piece dental floss also filed the holes lower edge by hand with a 2mm drill bit.
Thank you bronfor the tip. I get the same problem with brand new Mikuni 42
Also check the o ring on that jet! Mine was bad. I think that was my main problem.
Yup!! It worked for me. Thank you!!
Well diagnosed. 👍
Great video. Good help. Thanks.
Yep excellent video bro. You the bestes
Thank you. Good vid
I was just changing my throttle cables out and this BS happen thanks so much for the fix
Well done
That’s a good idea mine piss’s sometimes when stopped has to shut off the gas but more times she’s fine. I took bowl off and set the float still the same then I thought maybe I had the float upside down but I bet that’s the issue I gota take it apart again and check that thanks brother
I got the same annoying leak issue. In my HSR42 carb, the float was almost blocked by the retainer screw. It's a design mistake, the molded support is not deep enough, hence if you tighten the screw it will block the axis. It may happen on a new carb!! .... Solution: I have milled 0.3mm off the axis with a Dremel (where the screw head was touching) and now the float can move up and down freely
Having the same problem with my 18 250 sx carb.
I cant seem to remove the brass body on my mikuni carbs (vmax 1200)
Interesting idea. I wonder if this is the issue with my VM30SS on my '74 F11. I can hit the carb and it'll stop pissing gas, but soon after it just starts again. I'm fucking tired of messing with it.
when I tilt bike towards gear shift side carburetor leaks..
how to solve this issue?
it doesn't leak when bike is straight standing
You have to check to see if the shit off is stuck.
Is this an HSR 42/45? What’s a slide borg?
My carbs are leaking i ceaned it but they still leaking,i by this sat in ebay hoppe they will funksion
Interesting, I have another problem, my float and float needle are working fine, also tested with water on the dining room table, shuts off perfectly, but as soon as I plug in the carburettor the fuel continues to flow from the main jet bleed channel going to the air filter, I would almost believe that this dmp shit has to be mounted at an angle so that the gasoline does not flow out. am also busy adjusting what does not really want with this dmp, now the scooter pulls hard with the throttle needle at the lowest position, so clip on the end of the throttle needle.
air screw all the way in, main jet 80 and choke all the way out.
they say that I drive with my choke on means that it gets less air which means more fuel, but it seems to me that it gets more air and fuel when I look at the technique of the carburettor also because of the choke jet and the rear air ducts that open when choke is open.
set up, original delimited air filter aprilia sr2000 with air filter oil.
standard 50cc
return laser x pro exhaust
17.5mm carb DMP Shit.
transmission complete stage 6
6 valve diaphragm
Replace the Oring that goes around the brass sleeve
WTH R U serious? How did you pull that brass fitting out???
I think my valve shutoff needle is just too dmmn short. And my float is entirely plastic with no bendable metal tab so it's not adjustable, so I'm up shlt creek without a paddle.
How did you manage to get this thing out?
There is a screw on top holding it, then its just a matter of pulling it out...i use some needlenose pliers and some cardboard.
My carburetor has 2 venting lines, top n bottom, where do i connect those to.? Also bottom one leaks gas.? Is that normal.? Solution.?
My carburetor is also leaking fuel kinda where the air filter goes. Please help
Santiago Davila - those lines are vents for the float bowl.
Sounds like your description is a float level problem, check your float level.
Hungry Rabbit is there a certain distance in between or like a mark level.?
Hey guys I'm so cool
That might be the wrong needle valve.
To me it looks a little short
They make a longer one
It all came in a rebuild kit.
GOD!, they are fkn ridiculous.
Epic