What Position For My Needle Clip?
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- čas přidán 23. 06. 2024
- The internet is full of suggestions for jetting and they all include a needle position, but what does that number mean??
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to remove the needle quick and easy without it flying off, just put it down on a flat surface with the circlip open facing down flat and press on the needle. Clip "unlocks" without flying off.. can put a finger over the clip just to be safe :)
Great tip
Useful info. Grreeeeeeeeaaa5ttt
ha ha,... very cool Joao..
Was just about to post this!
Great thanks mate 👍
Probably the best advice on needle adjustment here on CZcams.
Really appreciate your straight to the point approach without 2 minutes of gratuitous riding footage /crappy music at the beginning.
Thanks.
Agreed MAVAS!
Amazing! Thank you so much. I knew how it all worked and how carbs work. It’s just remembering what’s in what position and which way makes things leaner or richer
Thank you for explaining 1-5 clip position. Top to bottom is how its counted...thank you!~
You should make a video on how it runs in each position, with cold starts and warm starts.
you really need to trim theose
Thanks a million for this video. People keep on telling me to go leaner on the needle and I had no idea how to do that until now lol, all of your videos are very informative and straight to the point. Thanks man🤟🏽💯
Glad to help
Thank man. I really like all your videos. I have two boys that race and I love working on the bikes. I have an RM 85 that I almost was stumped couldn’t figure out why it was running so rich on the low end because of your videos I fixed it thank you man.
Awesome
Awesome 👌 very well explained. Ive just mounted a pz19 110cc dirt bike carburetor on a very old 3.8hp honda G150. I totally underestimated how much fuel is in constant demand! I also now require notch #4 on the needle, Air fuel mixture screw set 1 1/2, idle speed screw set at 2 1/4, Now she purrs like a kitten and the performance is astonishing. Huge improvement in all rev ranges. Thanks bro 👍
Playing with needles is the best thing you can do that is spot on indeed. I was turning my bike 03 kx250 into a woods bike and could never get the bottom end power I needed did governor mod flywheel weight played with timing on stator gnarly pipe ect ect. Then I did some research and got a few different needles necw necj ect I believe been a few years and they were from suzuki and yamaha and man what a difference before even fine tuning it instantly got beter response and grunt of the bottom as before it was not transitioning on to the pipe smooth at all and i tried alot of tuning with the kx needle. Then I got the new needle and tuned it in no more acting like a 125 where there's no power until hit the pipe it is now a great woods single track machine tuned for colorado high elevation minimal spooge and can even go down to the dessert moab from riding at 10000 feet in the high rockies and just richen air screw and raise needle 1 notch runs like a top
Dual Thumbs Up for liking carburetors brother! Something to be said for simplicity, it's just and advanced mixing valve! I learned something today about the Needle, BTW that was the best part for me, I never knew you counted #1 position from the top notch? I've never really been concerned with what number my carbs are set to, usually just adjust them up or down a notch depending on the climate and altitude of locations be riding mostly in. Huh thanks for the information, cuz seriously I've seen people talking about #1 through #5-7 but never knew how that was untainted by the notches in what direction the starting point of #1 was or was it just something mythical someone made up lol! Sweet bro, thanks and ride it like you stole it! Be safe.
Thanks so much
Great tips and advice 👌
I needed this info. Thx a bunch!
Great video. Great explanation
Excellent video, Lets add a detail! Many late model bikes have carbs with needles that only have one needle groove/position. That is to enforce running 'lean' to meet emission standards. A trick often mention to richen up that carb is to place a small washer UNDER the clip, thus RAISING the needle! It is probably fair to assume a bike with non adjustable needles is running lean, so raising by this trick is likely to give better response.
ive done this on my mini jeep but it ran too rich at times so getting a new geniune mikuni vm 22 for it instead of the chinese clone it came with and gonna jet it proper
Man this helped so much. Don't have a dirt bike but an rd350 that's been struggling with mid throttle. My dumbass moved it to 2 thinking it was 4.
I carry a small box of clips after mine fired off, after a surplus I haven’t lost one👍
what’s the small box called
@@rumurz. taco
Thank you soo much for this!!!! Ever since i rebuilt my 2006 Yamaha Blaster's engine, and then now put a new air filter on it, and fixed the airbox cover, it now runs a bit rich. I'm ok with rich because it's better a 2 stroke runs rich than lean. But it struggles to get to full rpm when revving, and also is a little slow on acceleration. When i bought the Blaster, it had no air filter on it. So, i'm thinking the last owner probably had set the needle to run richer, to acommodate for the extra airflow from the absence of an air filter. Especially because it was fast and strong af when i ran it without the air filter, and was not running too rich at all. I can't wait to properly adjust my carb!!!!
Awesome man!
That sounds familiar! Did changing the needleposition help you in this case?
@@noctis_felis not very much. But then again, I have an Ebay air filter (which already had complaints of it being crap and restricting the engine) and on top of that, i had my airbox cover bolted on. My engine developed terrible piston slap from worn connecting rod bearings. I have to rebuild it again. That wasnt bc of the adjustment though... that was just the consequence of me geting it to run as cheap as possible, which was by just replacing top end after the last owner locked the engine up. I didnt change anything in the bottom. So the connecting rod already was badly worn, and piston had tiny bit of up and down play. Rode and rode and now abput a month ago, thats when it died. Lucky me, no catastrophic damage. I'm going to now rebuild it with wiseco. Wiseco crank, rod, and piston. Then i'll get an FMF pipe. And later i'll also get a lightweight flywheel. And new reeds. It's gonna be BUILT for real!!!
My situation wasnt a normal situation, since i had cheaped out, and my engine already was getting nowwhere near enough airflow, therefore always was too rich. For you, it most certainly will help it.
@@noctis_felis Also, another tip to mention. When adjusting EITHER mixture for 2 stroke. Whether it's the idle mixture, or the high rpm mixture. DOESN'T MATTER. When adjusting those mixtures, DO NOT RUN TOO LEAN!!!! Not only will a lean mixture cause the engine to possibly not receive enough oil to lubricate it, but a lean mixture will also cause 2 strokes to experience the SCARIEST THING they do!!!! That is LEAN RUNAWAY!!! Lean runaway is when the engine starts dieseling and running on its own, REGARDLESS of the kill switch. And it screams to higher and higher rpm, till either you choke it out to shutoff, pop clutch with brakes to stall it, or it just self destructs. This especially happens when you are low on fuel. This is why I am always cautious of my fuel level, and check it constantly.
@@nascarsimracing1 Thanks a lot for your fast reply! I had a bad runaway case on my 2000 KTM 250EXC, due to accidentally putting WAY too much oil in (I will never stop cringing about that). New crank assembly, checking and cleaning everything (top, bottom, middle, back, everything), 'burned' the exhaust out, new reed valves, you can fill in the rest... Getting parts is hell since KTM seems to think it's an ancient bike. Haven't gotten it to run as it should again though. Been dicking around with carb settings and jets, but didn't fully understand yet what the needle setting does.
I also keep a spare in the garage and a little bin with about every chemical I use for my dirt bike goes with me. It has a large pill bottle in it with bolts and things.... a spare clip is one of them. Also the little clip that holds the brake pad pin in the caliper. If you have ever swapped out a brake pad set and spent a while looking in the dirt for that little clip.
Danny Compton totally!!
good advice..thanks
Hah! Lucky me I have E-clips from my rc cars. Definitely a good piece to have in the mobile shop
Keep a magnet tray in your tool box. Perfect for changing the clip position
Great wish saw this video last year when I was dialing in my bike
Thank u for the tip
Showed my kid as we Run quads… love the 250R’S !!
Thank you!
Do this over a large folded rag. Will help it if shoots off or if you drop the needle it won’t damage the tip. Done from experience unfortunately. Protect your tip guys 👍
2:58...and so instead of laying down a white
or light colored towel, he does it over a hard
bench that could bounce the clip into his neighbors
pool, and it's covered. 🤔😂 Seriously, though
very informative, now I know which slot on the needle
is 1 , that info is often left out when someone talks
about moving it.
I got new carb for my yz80 and when I got it the vacuum lines on the side where connected together I guess for shipping I tried everything,and it was those 2 lines connected together took one of them off and it runs good now
Thats one great thing about living where I do. Out of the crate, most bikes run perfectly. Its hard to beat stock jetting. My bikes start n run perfectly, no plug fouling. And they will idle all day. Nice dark golden brown spark plug reading.
Awesome
nice^^^ what state do you live in?
@@rickyjennings8627 he lives in that imaginary state that doesn't exist.
Or he's referring to a four stroke that is fuel injected....
@@rickyjennings8627 Ontario Canada 🇨🇦 and no I don't ride a 4 stroke efi. I ride a 18 yz250 and wife's on a 18 kx100, but over 41 years I've had over 30 bikes, trikes n atvs.
@enduro trucker Ernie Desjardins I'm also in ontario, southern Ontario .. I need help with my carb tune any suggestions? 1991 rm250 with fmf gold series.
Took me an hour to find all the parts in my sons bike. Lesson learned. Lol
thank you
I owned an Elsinore 250 when stationed in Alaska. We would ride trails that started at sea level and climb to about 6K feet. Half way up we would have to stop and I would raise the clip two settings in order to lean the carb, otherwise the plugs would foul and the bike wouldn't idle. Of course we would have to reverse the procedure on the way back down. You are right about that clip wanting to fly off in the worse way and I always carried extra. By the way safety wire can work in a pinch to replace the clip if need be. Don't ask how I know...
Hahaha, awesome.
Excellent. Here its about 5k feet elevation, like most of Wyoming. Need to raise it a notch or two up. Thanks
Thanks!!
Love your videos! Question: so to make the bike run richer you're just adjusting the needle clip, are you adjusting anything else? My bike is running a bit rich it's good for cold weather but now it's getting warmer (Las Vegas Nevada USA) and want to lean it out, do i just move the needle clip one notch up?
Thanks
Yeah that will help. If it’s not enough you might have to go down a size on the main too.
It will effect idle mixture slightly. Lower the clip if you are having to turn mixture screw out to far, they can vibrate out if theres not enough spring tension on the screw. In severe cases you can shim the needle with very small thin washer under the clip.
Yeah mine vibrated out😅 will lower the clip when i get the new carb, thanks
The idle adjustment screw raises & lowers the slide the needle is attached too so yes if it's out of range you can adjust needle height to compensate.
Thank you for the video, If I wanted to jet my dirtbike two steps leaner do I need to just raise the clip up two spots? Would I also have to put different jets in?
Yes just raise the clip. Try it and if it’s still too rich maybe go down on the main jet
Thanks for your advice. I have a vm22 mikuni. It's idles fine, but giving it gas it dies, it's in the middle position #3, spark plugs look good. I guess I will have to keep play with it?
Yeah. The good thing about carbs is that it’s easy to swap stuff
I push mine out of lock position, push down, then push down again to snap it locked.
I've done everything to these carbs on this bike except for needles. It dies upon throttle everytime, unless i spray the carb with fuel. Then it revs just fine. Without spraying the carbs, itll just die wen given throttle. Only thing i havnt done is needle and thats because it has no slots. Is it okay to use washers to allow more fuel ? Any help is appreciated. Also I love your vids.
my ZX6R they are in the 3rd position. and it's not running good, also the pilot screws are only 1 turn out witch doesn't seems right but according to the idle sound it's what they like. bike bogs down when i go to take off. should i try raising or lowering the needle?
One question I have, do these needles wear out a bit on the bottom causing the performance to change? Mine has never been touched but suddenly I don't seem to be getting enough air in the carburetor. Only thing I changed was the float needle and seat. Jets are all good and cleaned. I have intermittent bogging on acceleration.
Yes they do. So can the brass tube they go into
My 95 Yamaha Kodiak 400 4x4 had no power but ran okay. I bought a new carb and now it has tons of power, but boggs (as if it's hitting a rev limiter) when I'm at about half throttle. It does it in every gear. Once I get the bogg I can push past it by romping the throttle and it runs great. Any idea what's wrong?
Great video. I have a huge question if you have time to answer. When putting around at maybe 1/4 throttle the carb is choaking, 3/4 to WOT it runs fine, Idle it runs fine. Just the slow putting around every now and then it does that choking bog sound. Should I adjust needle or change pilot jet? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
I’d try the needle first. Drop it one position (move clip up one groove)
@@highlandcycles awesome. I'll give it a try and thanks for the advice.
@@Rizzel101 Did raising the clip up a notch help you solve your issue?
Hi! I have an husqvarna cr144 2011 with tmx38 carburetor and when I accelerate I feel like the gears are too short and I would like to have it more longer but not so sure if changing needles clip position will help in this case , I love this moto but it’s too dirty bike always with valvule exhaust open it’s kind a motocross style. Cumpliments from Portugal 🇵🇹
Thanks
Thank you
I recently purchased the JD jet kit for my 2018 ktm xcw and I was wondering what the best clip position would be for all around riding. I would be 0-4000’ in elevation. I live in Iowa so nothing really above 1700’. Usually ride in 60-90 degree weather and ride track and single track mostly. Chart says 2.5 position I was thinking position 3. And also what’s best setting for air screw? I was thinking 1.5 out. Thanks!
I’d run 2 or 2.5. I like a lean needle setting personally. Air screw will
Have to be what works best. Fiddle with it til you’re happy.
Follow the instructions in the kit
I lost an eclip in the rock parking lot once, was down for 2 hours until we finally found it!
Oh crap
Use a flat nosed standard plyer to pull the clip out from the closed end pulling away from the needle, its not going to get lost that way. IF YOU ARE HOME WITH TOOLS OFC
hello, I'm Brazilian and I would like to ask a question, does the position of the clip influence the high rpm of the engine? I've heard that at 100% acceleration it doesn't influence regardless of where the clip is.
That is correct
Thank you you so much my kx85 is running rich so if I put it to the top it wont awsome thank you so much
Hey I was told my bike is too lean and to go up two sizes on my main jet I have a 190 in it now and I’m at about 500 feet above sea leave is this going to be okay to do or should I change other stuff in my carb instead?
I would start there.
Dude I’m oblivious about dirt bikes. Just got a 2021 DRZ400. I live in Texas and plan to take my bike to the mountains next month in Colorado and Utah. I will be going from 1200’ elevation to 7000-11,000’. Any recommendations on what I should do to prep the bike to run great in the mountains. I don’t really want to purchase a lectron carb yet with the bike being so new. Thanks for any advice. 👊💪
I would get the JD jetting kit for it and put what they say in it for your trip. Should work great
@@highlandcycles thanks brother I appreciate the quick response.
So with bigger jets. ( higher than stock?) Should you run the needle leaner for maximum performance?
Sometimes. It just depends on the carb and the motor
I'm trying to dial in a recently rebuilt KX125. I advanced the timing a a little but was hearing a little knocking when under a slow load. So I put the timing back to stock. I also noticed it wasn't putting out very much smoke at all (I am running synthetic Motul 2t so thta's part of it I guess.) I did turn the air screw in 1/2 turn (so it's only out about 1 turn) and I am getting a more normal amt of smoke at least at low RPM. I do still hear a a faint occasional knock under load so I'm thinking lowering the clip from 3rd to 4th down. I'm at sea level so that's pretty far but I'm not sure what else to do or if I should just try a larger pilot. Any thoughts much appreciated!
I’d go up on the pilot and main.
@@highlandcycles Thanks,, I'll give that a try! Keep up the great vids!
Hey boss great video. I have a 2022 YZ250X and I live in south texas off the coast a little it’s very hot and humid . I think the factory jet tuning for the carb is off for my type of environment. Should I run Richer or leaner ?
Might need a little more gas but I’m not sure what it’s doing?
@@highlandcycles I feel like it’s running a little too rich , would you recommend just adjusting the Pilot jet screw ? Or main jet ? I’m still trying to grasp the whole carburetor process and tuning in a nut shell . The bike runs amazing but I feel it could be more crisp
@@txwicked1804 ok. That’s good info. I would start by dropping the needle (raising the clip) one position and opening the air screw 1/2 turn.
I use locking forceps available from Harbor Freight to do that.
Great tip
Don't know if its too late to ask since this is from 2019 but I just bought my first dirt bike... it wont idle and backfires/pops every 4seconds am guessing its the jetting should I just get a jetting kit or trying cleaning it out.
Try cleaning first
Hi, my ktm 450 runs ok in lower gears at full throttle etc but when I put it in higher gears and at low rpm and use 3/4 full throttle it hesitates and doesn't rev up smoothly. I think it's running rich but would you suggest going lower on the main jet or leaner on the needle? Thanks
Start with one smaller main jet
@@highlandcycles ok, I'll try that. Thanks for the reply bud 👍🏻
Thanks Dad
I lost a clip once so I got a coke can and cut off the tiny little piece what attaches the pull tab too the can and used that. It was that good I never took it off just kept it 😂
Nice
If you take the needle circlip off under water in a plastic tub it cannot fire off somewhere.
But you also have different size needles , they can either be rich or lean by going up in number or down . with out changing the main jet , and by changing the slot your changing how rich or lean it is , longer the needle less fuel . shorter more fuel .
If I roll the throttle slowly and evenly, my bike rips. But a little too much and it stumbles then picks up. Needle in middle right now. What do you think?. Rich? Lean?
Needle up or down? Thanks
Sounds like it could be lean. Might need to richen the pilot up a bit.
I have a 1993 RM250 and it SEEMS like it's running rich. I replaced the float, old one was a little fuel logged, jets are stock and seals are good, it has bad bogging throughout the midrange but the super low and the very top end are smooth and powerful. Any ideas?
Not sure. Make sure the needle isn’t worn or the hole it goes into
I realize this is an old post, hoping you're still active. I have a 49cc 4-stroke with a PWK type carb. I do have some experience with jet tuning, and it's running great at both idle and full throttle, but sometimes bogs a little at midrange. Would this more likely be from a lean condition, or rich? I'm thinking it's a little lean, but would love an expert opinion. Thanks a ton!
Probably lean. drop the clip one position
Nice video. Thanks. It would have been nice to see you remove this needle from the carb just to get an idea of how it was installed.
Great suggestion!
Can needle height affect/fix a bog when you trust the throttle quickly? My kids 50cc will bog, and die if you hold it, when you rip the throttle off idle. If you go a little slower it revs fine without dying. With my adult butt on the bike, it seems to lose power on hills at WOT (will pull harder if you let off a little), but maybe that's just my size. Anyway, I've taken the carb apart and cleaned many times, adjusted float level to try and get more fuel flowing. No change. Bone stock, low hours. No air screw, only idle. Could raising the needle fix this kind of issue? Thanks greatly
Yes the needle can effect that.
U kick ass..🖒🖒
I have a question I'm really hoping that you can help me out a little bit not that long ago I bought a Polaris xplorer 300 4x4 which is a 2-stroke engine old school carbureted no exhaust valve nothing fancy but I do not know anything about tuning a carburetor I'm not looking to make a ton of power just for it to run good it had carburetor problems since I got it but I noticed it felt like it was running a little Rich smoked a lot used a lot of gas started messing with the needle got it to run a little bit leaner seems to run better but I don't want to run it too lean I'm still running the stock jetting do you know if it's possible to run it too lean and cause damage having the stock jetting buy adjusting the needle I am assuming with the stock jetting they kind of built it for idiots like me so you can't run it too lean but I don't know
The stock jetting will never be too lean. Also you can’t ruin a motor with the needle position. You should be fine.
I use small needle nose pliers, and keep a TIGHT grip on the clip!!!
I have a carbureted 2008 Crf250r. It runs great, the only think wrong with it is that it sputters in the high end of 1st gear and 2 bad gear when I steadily accelerate at a slow pace. In the rest of the gears, the sputter happened in most of the rpm ranges. There is no noticeable sputter when I quickly accelerate though. I’m not sure what this problem is, if it could be my carburetor, spark plug, or anything else. If you could help me that would be great, thankyou!
I would try moving the needle. Try both ways
@@highlandcycles alright thankyou, I will try that sometime.
What do i do when my bike cuts out when i let go throtte its 2 stroke 70cc yamaha jog
What carb were you running in that kx65?
Stock
So does needle height only adjust throttle response? It doesnt do anything to resolve air/gas ratio or fix things such as four stroking on a 2 stroke engine?
It has the most effect on throttle response. It can help with those things too but not a huge amount
Will my be perform beather if i richen the mix and then open the air screw a bit
Maybe.
I've got a 4 stroke kawasaki bayou. Runs and idles perfectly. Starts first pull. But bogs out really bad when I give it throttle. Carbs been thoroughly cleaned. Any ideas? And another weird thing if I work my choke it almost as a throttle and it'll run smooth and drive using the choke and only the choke. I'm completely lost.
Sounds like you might have an air leak somewhere. I would get it running and spray some brake cleaner around the intake area and see if you can find it.
low rpm, low throttle - runs great
low rpm, middle throttle - runs great
low rpm, high throttle - bogs
middle rpm, low throttle - splutters
middle rpm, middle throttle - splutters
middle rpm, high throttle - runs great
high rpm - splutters regardless of throttle position
what adjuatments do you think i need to make?
I have a Mikuni vm22 carb with a Uni air filter on my SSR 125 pit bike. After installing the genuine Mikuni, the bike idles erratically and only smooths out when I pull the choke. When the choke is off and I twist the throttle, it bogs and want to die. I went up to a bigger size pilot jet (37.5) and main jet (115), but no change. Will changing needle clip position help out in my case? I think the clip is currently in the 3rd or 4th position now.
Sounds like you already have it in the richer position. I’d try an even bigger pilot
Ok. Will do. Thanks.
Have a rm250 Boggs 1st-2nd main jet158 & pilot 45 riding 870ft above sea level, any suggestions on what size jets I should try?
Go up on both.
Okay I’ll give it a shot! Subscribed
@@drinkacase1736 thanks.
Would this work for 206m ? Oklahoma is 365m I’m over in Canada currently at 206m
Hey bro I have a 2017 ssr 125cc is there a way to know if the valves need to be adjusted?
Take the covers off and check them
I have a 22 125xc im trying to change out the emulsion tube on the Mikuni tmx and cant get it to move tryed brass punch any suggestions??? Called Dealer he never changed one?? Need help
Why are you changing it? I haven't changed one either.
I have Lost those so many times 🤣
I know
I have a 1997 big boss 400 been nothing but problems to start I live in Arkansas 2000 altitude and the guy before got the big bore done on it he never could start it so I bought not running can you advise what position I should start at on needle ? Thanks
I would start in the middle.
I always put a bag on it for safety.... Usually use a Ziploc bag so I can seal it most the way up and still see what I'm doing inside it.
Nice
Can i ask you, my ktm 2011 and when i rev it it holds high rpms....like in some seconds they fall down but sometimes they stays high....what can it be the problem?
Maybe an air leak. Or too lean on pilot
You’re going to Oklahoma from where? (Starting and ending elevations?). And how did you know to go to the 4th position?
From CO and lots of fiddling
@@highlandcycles
I’m also from Denver area. My bike has run poorly since I moved back here from traveling in my RV (AZ, NM, SoCAl).
No adjustment on my pin. I stuck a small wire up my jet. Bike ran great!!! I ordered an assortment of jets.
Thank you!
AWESOME VIDEO... been looking for this!
So... would we raise the needle (by putting clip up higher) when we go to higher elevation?...or the opposite?
Or... do we just adjust the idle screw?
So, when you raise the clip you are actually lowering the needle and making it leaner. Which is what you would do at higher elevations. When you lower the clip you are raising the needle, therefore richening the mixture.
@@highlandcycles Thanks... for being so awesome!
Hey I got a brand new 38mm keihin air striker with a jd jet kit for my 01 jtm, I installed it just how jd said, yet the bike runs great at idle and full throttle, but is choppy in the middle. Got my clip in the 4th position on the blue needle just how jd said. Should i try lowering the clip?
No, raise the clip/lower the needle
@@highlandcycles hell yea, thanx man
I have the Keihen PKW 38mm now on a 19 300xc. I put a TSP medium head on too. Question is are you familiar with the STIC METERING BLOCK that is another $300.00 to swap out the stock block and install this STIC.
Have you heard anything about this STIC? Or is this just lip stick on a pig gimmick? Thanks man!
I have heard really good things about the STIC and I have ridden one bike with it. It ran really well but I don't know if it was enough better to make me want to spend the money.
I use a small pair of vice grips. Buying a clip with the needle is a good idea because they are cheap.
I have a kx 65,
When hitting top revs/power band it splutters and wont hit the high revs.
Any ideas what I can try ?
Cheers
I’d try going down a size on the main jet
@@highlandcycles ok thanks I will give it a go
Cheers 👍👍👍
Great info, I have a vm22 on a 125cc changed the jet to 120 great idle and no hesitation. My problem is that when I turn the throttle down the carb stays on high for a few seconds. Not instantly like it should. Any ideas. Thanks
Probably need to richen up the pilot circuit
@@highlandcycles thanks, should my carb cleaning wire go all the way thru. My smallest wire won't. It may be plugged.
@@Ken-it8wv yes it should
Any help ?
Have 1990 kx100
Have done a top end rebuild took it out and the bike is bogging out .
Hits power bands then right at the top of the power bands bogs out any help ?
Hard to say. Check jetting
Souds like either a rich bogging or a lean bogging, if its only at full throttle it sounds like air fuel mixture is incorrect. If your happy the carbs ok, jets are not blocked etc. Try turning the air screw on the carb in (clockwise) to the richen the mixture. If its worse then its most likely a rich fuel problem. If its better then it was running too lean. Then just find your sweet spot. Average base settings is 2 turns out on most carbs. Check where yours is set before you alter the settings so you can go back to them if no better. Hope this helps 👍🏻👍🏻
Can the main jet affect 1/4 to 3/4 tuning if even lowest needle is too rich
Yep
So moving the clip down will only richen 1/4-3/4 throttle? Not full throttle?🤔
Not really. Once you get it wide open the needle is essentially out of the way
My 125cc four stroke atv with 1 gear used to rev all the way up to 13000 rpms but now it limits it to 9500 and i lost around 17 kmh top speed. Do u maybe know what i can do?
Not sure
Check compression
The easiest and safest way to change your needle position is to use a small pair of pliers and grip the E clip from the back center of the clip to pull it off and whilst still holding it just move it to the new position.
Hi , If I am right at the number 1 needle groove and it feels it could need to go leaner still do I go smaller pilot jet or main jet. Also my air screw does almost nothing until almost all the way in then splutters a bit. Thanks.
@@yeahrightmate you need a bigger pilot jet if the air screw is all the way in. You want the air screw to be roughly 2 turns out. The carb needs more fuel, if it's all the way in go up at least 2 sizes on the pilot, then get the motor running, roll the throttle to about 1/2 and see what it does. If it backfires or bogs go richer on the needle. After thats dialed in get the motor warm, then crack the throttle wide open, if it does or bogs you probably need a bigger main. I know this is late I hope you fixed your issue!
Mine is right in the middle; only after taking mine off trying to put a new cable on I messed up and it went flying apart everywhere, basically guessed how to put it together again. I put it in the third position and it my 250 is much faster.
Hey, I have an 86 xr600r. Carbs cleaned, re jetted 155. It ran fine I towed it to az from md it will start and idle! If I barely crack the throttle it will build rpm’s but anything past that just breaks up. I’m lost dude
From Maryland? Probably need smaller main