I've been printing N gauge rolling stock on my Elegoo Mars resin printer and I think you'd be blown away by the leap in quality. If you can sort out your ventilation issue, I can't recommend them enough!
@@Trainskitsetc I think you need to look up the research into that again. While yes it does emit chemicals, they are very near non toxic. Now compare that with abs. The reason some 3d printers have enclosures is because they are specifically built for abs. Maybe you should look into researching the thing you are talking about instead of running with half a fact you heard from a tik tok or something of that nature
@beacon models would you happen to be able to link which ones? I work primarily in N and would love to have the ability to fill out trains with 3d printed wagons
@@saintdane05 they're my own design, but once we're further on through our aircraft kits it's something I might look into releasing as a digital product of some sort 🙂.
A resin based printer gives amazing quality compared to a pla. I first had parts printed in resin back in 1997. Was a great way to test designs before committing to expensive mould tools. Back then of course we sent the SLA files on a floppy 💾 to the printer guys, and they posted the parts back. Email wasn't really up to big files
@@sailormatlac9114 yes but it really isn't that hard to deal with, just make sure to fully cure any waste before you dispose of it. you can use water washable resin ( do not wash in sink or dispose of it in waste water). you can then just put the water you used to clean with in a bucket outside in the sun and let it evaporate and cure any remaining residue then dispose of it.
@gs425 I’m surprised that there were 3d printing back then (I am familiar with older OS’s using floppy diskette like the Apple ][ plus and PowerBooks) my dad at that time worked and is still working at Oak Ridge National Laboratory so I am surprised that he haven’t mentioned it as he works with additive manufacturing and other types of manufacturing. Do you by chance know what software was used and who made the software for business use as I like collecting that kind of stuff.
Nice work gentleman ! I'm gathering ideas of 3D models to print myself, starting with basics like box vans or planks. The only thing that was limiting me was the availability of Sketchup on Linux, but it can run with the Wine emulation tool, so problem solved. Next, before buying the printer itself, I'm looking for documentation. I already have drawings for a PLM/SNCF UK traffic wagon, I might start with it. I'm looking for more, notwithstanding my free-lance ideas...
Hi Sam, I'm relatively new to 3D printing myself, and PLA + is reasonably OK for brackets ... 2 things to be careful of however PLA is not the best for temperature resistance or (Car accessories tend to be made in PETG or ABS) Its also a bit suspect over time if it is constantly loaded ... I don't think the shelf will collapse , but it might not stay at 90 degrees to the wall Good Luck with your designs
On the shelf support "L", the main failure point will be the screws holding the Frame to the wall, especially if it is "Gyprock" or similar wallboard. Longer screws into Wall Studs are a better solution. Or even Dynabolts if onto a Masonry wall ( from experience in my Armoury racking).
I'll be interested to see what you can achieve 3D printing in 0 gauge, both in terms of detail as well as making 0 gauge that little bit more affordable.
Hi Sam, it’s really great to watch as you develop your designing and printing skills … such a great achievement … congrats 👏 and … Encore … all the best, N
I built some really small diameter pegs where a deck screw goes down the center and screws into a 2x4. The peg and one crappy #6 screw holds a 50 foot extension cord no problem. I also made some very large sleeve bearings for a fence. The diameter of the post was 8 inches. The gate had a steel sleeve bigger than that and I made a sleeve for the inside of the gate sleeve and added a flange on it to bear on the gate posts similar sleeve. You should take some of your failed prints and try to sand and cut and modify them... you will have a greater appreciation at the durability of simple PLA. Trying to sand large parts for fit is far more effort than it is worth... remodel and reprint.
Oh absolutely! Pla+ is like trying to sand rocks!! I just use filler primer on it, and sand the primer down to get a smooth surface! And definitely not a good idea sanding pla parts down to size that’s for sure!!
For the rivet issues you can try reversing them and modelling them as small depressions instead of bumps. This will print cleaner and at this scale it would be very much the same visually. This trick also works for words and numbers especially when you have them on a side wall of the print.
Thanks for the tip! But it actually works better outside - the walls are designed for a specific number of extruder passes (multiples of 0.4mm), so a rivet on the inside would offset this. A rivet on the outside (less than 0.4mm for support) doesn’t affect the thickness, but just leaves a small air gap behind it.. that’s the problem I had to solve to get the rivets working!
that's a great wagon for what you call basic , you have a gift for this 3d printing alchemy, I bet these models have got a lot of modelers inspired about what they can make for their layouts
You can use MEK or acetone to glue your pla together. It melts the surface of the pla and welds it together giving you a stronger bond than super glue.
Wow, those are great. Would be cool to see some other stuff that aren’t railways, like maybe people, cars, traction engines and stuff- I‘d particularly like to see a Showman‘s engine, they look really cool
Hey Sam i have to say those wagons looks magnificent...by the looks of those wagons...model train manufacturers need to step up their design to beat these haha. Cheers mate and have a good one!
Sam, great work, showing up the Big Boys, trade up to a Resin Printer, and you’ve cracked it, Sam Polmannby Hobbies, new manufacturer to the Model Rail industry
Interesting indeed and quite some progress you’ve made. 3D printing certainly is on our list for the future for things like accessories along the rails, but most of all… for a prototypical accurate catenary system. There are quite some webshops now offering tons of very prototypical country specific 3d-models. Some of the files are just a few dollars to download. Some are without charge and open source. A catenary system will be the cherry on the cake in the end. An Anycubic resin printer plus materials is going to be a significantly more economical route than manufacturers can offer I suppose. Truly inspirational stuff this.
Sam, thanks for your excellent, insightful and inspiring videos. I’m new to the hobby here in the US and really appreciate the variety of content and I find your product reviews especially helpful. I’ve learned so much from watching you. Great job and please keep it going!
Great to see you making progress in adding more detail to your wagons Sam. Are you planning on trying out resin printing since you can get much higher detail and better print quality as well?
you inspire me to make 3d printed model trains. I have done 3d designing and printing before but never once thought about making custom model trains and such with it!
I use the same nub as you for the 3D train models I've been printing too, with the exception of the designs for the 2 locos that used screws. I've been considering switching to use screws instead, and I'm glad to see you already made that same decision.
You are really getting into this 3D printing, Sam. I'd like to see you use the same files but printed in resin to compare both outputs from them. The magnetic box combination is a nice little project to do to learn how to utilize CAD software to design items.
Impressive! ALSO, here's a tip on how you can make the 3D CAD designs easier to make, rather than measuring the blueprints and translating it into sketch up, try finding a way to import the drawings from paper to a digital file to be pated onto a surface in which will hold the blueprints, the scanning bit is easy and various, you can use printers, mobile apps, cameras, whatever floats your boat!
I have a mate who is a computer whizz with a 3D printer and has made me numerous scenery ,fencing,buildings,vehicles,etc.I have shown him Sams vids on the wagons.I think I may have a few presents coming.
Deluxe Materials Roket Odourless superglue doesn't leave a residue. It can even be used on clear plastics, unlike normal superglues. Takes a bit to get used to it, as it's super runny, but I don't use anything else any more as the drying clear is more important to me.
Sam does it again.! 😆 Ok your Product is, in the Raw or Naked. But it allows people to be able to create a Rake of Model wagons. In which ever Colour or Design the Painter wishes..! And at such a great price. Well done Sam..! Who's a Clever fella..! Cheers all kim in Oz. 😎
It's very interesting how you can fire these guys out with a 3d printer, even though you can see the texture of each layer (at least with the zoomed in camera) I do think it adds a little something as far as texture considering maybe of these cars were built using wooden planks. While you could get "smoothness" with resin, I think this print does the perfect job for it's intention.
Thanks Mike! And bear in mind these aren’t printed at max quality - this was all done at 0.18mm layer height.., these machines can do 0.08mm, though I do 0.18 as it’s the best balance between quality and print time!
On the 009/H0e scale bogie chassis I made Jan 21... you can count the individual leafs making up the spring for each wheel. And I solved the issue of the steel axels wearing away the resin in the axel box's. You got a way to go lad.....
Very nice work, sounds awesome! I'm using FDM here though, so adding more detail would be a waste of time before switching to SLA! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains Sam great channel I wish I could say more, but I have been refining my printing & modelling skills for commercial releases. I will say SLA (liquid resin vat) printing can produce superior detail while it's useful to mix differing resins to produce hybrids with increased tensile and hardness qualities. “Have you got a really detailed coal yard on your layout….?” let me know, I’m sure I could accommodate..
There is some ringing and ghosting visible on the walls of the models. Your speed/acceleration settings might need tuning, or the printer might be getting a bit loose. Also, if you are willing to invest time in 3D modelling and printing, you might want to switch to some serious CAD tools, like Fusion 360 (desktop) or OnShape (web-based). These are very popular among DIYers and enthusiasts and easy to learn as well.
Sam I don't know if you using the new Cura but if your not trust me its a game changer for fdm detail Its Cura 5.0. I should really watch the video before commenting if you haven't tried it I've bin printing for a few years and it shocked me how good it is with a standard 0.4 nozzle.
Wow nice vid soon I’m going to buy of few loco body’s off ebay and combine them to make my dream tender engine also can you 3D print a south Maitland railway 10 class they are a beautiful looking Australian loco and have a nice story about how all of them were preserved they were all saved by the Australian national trust I think they would be easy to 3D print because they are quite square locos but beautiful ones. Can you also do a series when you look threw your loco scrap yard I love the vids when you’ve done it in the past and I would love to see more vids of them also you should start a n gauge layout it might fit in the loft because n gauge is so small I love the vid.
I always enjoyto see your 3D printed models, and the fact that you can make NEM couplings that work properly, is really cool, not naming any "professional" company who can't manage to make their couplings work, (cough, cough, Heljan! cough) or another company who make/made egg vans. That just goes to show how simple it is to do. So makes me wonder why with all the tech they have on hand, is it that we get models from the same company, that the same type of wagon does not couple to another one! Well done!
I was thinking about it on the moment : for your screws, you said in a precedent video that you dislike self threading screws, why wouldn't you use heat-fitted brass inserts, I tried it once, and can't really go back, the german youtuber CNC kitchen sells them in a lot of sizes on his website and also sells the brass soldering iron tips to press tgem easily in the plastic, the thread is really sturdy and stays for long, he even sells mini-sized ones with m2.5 thread, a good size for modelism in my opinion. Putting heat-fit inserts in a pla part is a breeze : you prepare a part with a hole of an adapted diameter, for example, the m3 insert needs a 5mm hole, you plug your soldering iron, put the insert on top of the hole, it is a bit larger, completely normal, when your iron gets a little bit hot, put the tip inside the insert's threaded hole, it wil heat it up in order to melt the sides of the hole in the plastic, helping the insert getting into the plastic part, once the insert is in it's hole, remove your soldering iron and let it cool a bit, the plastic will solidify around the insert and trap it into the part
I definitely don’t like self tapping screws - but they’re the most sensible thing to use in this case. These aren’t locomotives - they don’t need to be disassembled for maintenance: the screws go in and stay there, and a small handful of disassembles is perfectly possible (for painting etc) without rendering the screw threads useless. The structure of an FDM printed model is also perfect for self tapping if the screws are inserted perpendicular to the model base. These models are sold for £10 each - they’re not ultra-expensive detailed models like the ones that cost a fortune - I’m not about to increase my prices to add features that aren’t needed!
You'd be blown away with a resin printer. Incredible detail compared to these. I know you'd not want it in the loft without ventilation but if you have anywhere else in the house they don't take up much room and you tend to leave them for hours anyway. I've got 2 on the go 24/7 at the moment :)
Hey Sam. When you are making those 3D printed boxes, why don't you make them as something to go on the layout such as an Engine Shed or a Waiting Room? That way, you'll know what parts in what box. You can think to yourself, "Ah those are i the Engine Shed!".
I just though of it after seeing the wagons sides, but it seems that the sides are a little bit of a wave pattern, it could came from the threaded rod(s) of the printer, if the threaded rod is a little bit bended, it's going to deform the printer during the whole print, slightly shifting the printer head in one direction and half a turn of the rod, into the other direction. Replacing the threaded rod can really improve print quality
It isn’t the threaded rod - it’s ghosting caused by the large mass of the qidi extruder - it can be improved by tightening belts or lowering the print speed!
@@SamsTrains The matter isn't fully about reducing print speed, the main issue is that the extruder has high mass, and as such a lot of inertia, you mainly need to decrease the maximum accelerations (either in the slicer or the printer's own menu if it comes into it's functions)
Taking photos of real models and printing them as a model… Cool idea! I guess it’s only a matter a time before there will be an app for that 🙂 Good video 👍
Sam, I think youve now reached sort of 7- 10 years ago manufacturer quality easily - top work look how long it took them to get there! More locos please 😎
Lovely job, the printing bug truly is a sticky one! Crackin' designs too, though with the shelf, careful of delamination over time. maybe an epoxy coating over the top will ensure longevity; I've seen a few of my loved prints go that way. Anyway, keep it up, always intrested to see new wagon and loco designs
the progress here is amazing, recently picked up a 3d printer, Ender 3 V2, partly off the back of these videos. not up to detailed "N" gauge stuff but perfect for platforms etc, at least for now. have you had a look at the likes of "blender" for modelling?
A bit of paint and weathering and jobs a good un. Honestly, even for an exhibition layout, you just don't get that close . You would literally have to have it in your hand. The cost of even a basic wagon from the suppliers is getting out of hand. If each wagon costs £5.00 to make , then £100 gets you a good rake.
Oh have you ever used UV setting, clear resin? Just thought it might work for 'flush' glazing! You put some kind of tape over one side of the opening, so that the resin does not run out, and carefuly 'Zap' it with the UV light that comes with the kit, I beleive! All for now take care!
I think its time to get a resin printer sam. The amazon branded resin is what i use, its labelled as engineering resin and is sandable, drillable, and flexible and ive managed to use it to make working leaf springs and suspension- that model is out there for free if anyone wants a lowmac, currently making replacement improved bogies for bachmann class 55 which should be a streight swap part- really makes you think of a model differently when you can design replacement upgrade parts for it
Hi Sam. I've just got one piece of advice for you, regarding a fault that you had with Thomas Hornby locos. Maybe try running him at 30% speed, then that won't happen.
You know sam you've made some trucks, coaches and even 2 trains. Now that is already awesome but what if you make an O scale locomotive(or truck). That would be mega awesome.
Looks like Rusty’s had a go at your index finger 😉 I think for your performance test, maybe you should try propelling longer rakes of your new wagons over points. A 3D printer is definitely on my list of projects once I get back into modelling in a few years time. Can you give me a rough idea of the initial equipment investment cost. And the average materials cost to produce a basic four wheel wagon, or a bogie coach? I know next to nothing yet about 3D printing (apart from what I’ve seen from you). Also is it possible yet to 3D scan an existing model (coach or wagon body for example) and then produce a copy? Sorry if that might be a stupid question. Ideally I’d like to copy as a first project a standard 16T BR mineral wagon. I’m going to need a lot of those ! If it is possible to scan and print in this way, it’d be great to see you try it out. All the best Rob
haha yes - I usually just hide minor injuries to avoid grossing people out! The initial startup cost is nothing except for the printer itself - I started with only a printer and the filament it came with, which lasted around a month. The PLA+ I use costs around £20 per KG, so we're talking approximately 40p to print a wagon body/chassis - the real cost here is time: time to design, and time to print! Simply no, you can't scan real life objects and scale them down to make models. This may work for simple objects, but actual models are a compromise between realism and practicality at the end scale. A 3D scan would definitely help to determine dimensions etc though, which would massively aid the design process! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains thanks for the reply. Yep time is the key, and until I retire it will be in short supply. But rolling stock at that price will certainly mean the printer will quickly pay for itself. When I spoke of scanning I had in mind a scan of certain existing model parts - an old unbuilt Airfix wagon kit for example, rather than the real thing 😂
Thanks Paddy! Maybe one day, but my space is unventilated, and the resin is quite toxic - so not at the moment unfortunately! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hello Sam. Good video. Thanks for that. I too have been given 3D printers a go. I have designed a BR mk 2 coach. Not sure if I can include a phot/picture on CZcams comments, however I'm most please with the out come. Just need to paint them now. Keep up the good work Sam and see you later. :)
@@SamsTrains Indeed it shall. It needs a new special just like the model series used to be. However, the model/cgi hybrid style of season 12 was rather unfavourable. If a Model/CG hybrid special were to be possible for nostalgic reasons and with favourable results, it would have to be by an amazing team with a budget that reaches up to standards.
nice wagons you printed in your 3d printer. i liked your drawings book on the difrent wagons. i am looking forward to some new wagon designs. keep up the smashing work you do sam. ✨✨✨✨✨🇸🇪🇸🇪🇸🇪
Like the boxes Sam, why not put window imprints on the sides and a door on the bottom one use it on the train as a block of flats should solve storage problem and an extra use..
I'm just getting into 3D printing (at a very late stage in life) for my layout accessories. Do you sell the Gcode files for your wagons, by any chance?
Sam, have you thought of releasing the files so that those of us who have (or have access to) a 3D printer can print them ourselves? There are some sites where people have to pay to download your designs. The site does take a cut, but you still get paid for every download. You could even do-it-yourself. I send you the money...you email me the file(s)! You don't have to pay for the wheels, no problems with postage & packing and none of your time taken to print them! A discrete "Sam's Trains" on the underframe and the bottom of the body (advertising!) is also a possibility.
to me this is the ultimate evolution of the hobby now, I can design and print anything I want. So many things I can't wait to try out.
I've been printing N gauge rolling stock on my Elegoo Mars resin printer and I think you'd be blown away by the leap in quality. If you can sort out your ventilation issue, I can't recommend them enough!
@@Trainskitsetc you are thinking of abs plastic which is harmfull. pla is absolutely fine
@@Trainskitsetc I think you need to look up the research into that again. While yes it does emit chemicals, they are very near non toxic. Now compare that with abs. The reason some 3d printers have enclosures is because they are specifically built for abs. Maybe you should look into researching the thing you are talking about instead of running with half a fact you heard from a tik tok or something of that nature
@beacon models would you happen to be able to link which ones? I work primarily in N and would love to have the ability to fill out trains with 3d printed wagons
@@saintdane05 they're my own design, but once we're further on through our aircraft kits it's something I might look into releasing as a digital product of some sort 🙂.
@@Trainskitsetc do you mind giving me a link to these research papers? I'm genuinely curious now
A resin based printer gives amazing quality compared to a pla. I first had parts printed in resin back in 1997. Was a great way to test designs before committing to expensive mould tools. Back then of course we sent the SLA files on a floppy 💾 to the printer guys, and they posted the parts back. Email wasn't really up to big files
Very much so - I can't use SLA in my loft though due to lack of ventilation! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains Try a very low VOC organic resin. A little vent hood made from what you have lying about might help.
@@SamsTrains The fumes are one thing, but the waste when cleaning resin is also another hazardous issue.
@@sailormatlac9114 yes but it really isn't that hard to deal with, just make sure to fully cure any waste before you dispose of it. you can use water washable resin ( do not wash in sink or dispose of it in waste water). you can then just put the water you used to clean with in a bucket outside in the sun and let it evaporate and cure any remaining residue then dispose of it.
@gs425 I’m surprised that there were 3d printing back then (I am familiar with older OS’s using floppy diskette like the Apple ][ plus and PowerBooks) my dad at that time worked and is still working at Oak Ridge National Laboratory so I am surprised that he haven’t mentioned it as he works with additive manufacturing and other types of manufacturing. Do you by chance know what software was used and who made the software for business use as I like collecting that kind of stuff.
Nice work gentleman ! I'm gathering ideas of 3D models to print myself, starting with basics like box vans or planks. The only thing that was limiting me was the availability of Sketchup on Linux, but it can run with the Wine emulation tool, so problem solved.
Next, before buying the printer itself, I'm looking for documentation. I already have drawings for a PLM/SNCF UK traffic wagon, I might start with it. I'm looking for more, notwithstanding my free-lance ideas...
Hi Sam, I'm relatively new to 3D printing myself, and PLA + is reasonably OK for brackets ... 2 things to be careful of however
PLA is not the best for temperature resistance or (Car accessories tend to be made in PETG or ABS) Its also a bit suspect over time if it is constantly loaded ... I don't think the shelf will collapse , but it might not stay at 90 degrees to the wall
Good Luck with your designs
Sam you’re really giving all the big manufacturers a run for their money and your going to soon be on oxford’s level
haha thanks very much - I don't know about that - but maybe one day!! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Great work Sam, Thanks for showing us.
On the shelf support "L", the main failure point will be the screws holding the Frame to the wall, especially if it is "Gyprock" or similar wallboard.
Longer screws into Wall Studs are a better solution. Or even Dynabolts if onto a Masonry wall ( from experience in my Armoury racking).
Love to see you do some O gauge 3D printed projects
I'll be interested to see what you can achieve 3D printing in 0 gauge, both in terms of detail as well as making 0 gauge that little bit more affordable.
Hi Sam, it’s really great to watch as you develop your designing and printing skills … such a great achievement … congrats 👏 and … Encore … all the best, N
Thank you so much Nigel, that's very kind of you! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I built some really small diameter pegs where a deck screw goes down the center and screws into a 2x4. The peg and one crappy #6 screw holds a 50 foot extension cord no problem.
I also made some very large sleeve bearings for a fence. The diameter of the post was 8 inches. The gate had a steel sleeve bigger than that and I made a sleeve for the inside of the gate sleeve and added a flange on it to bear on the gate posts similar sleeve.
You should take some of your failed prints and try to sand and cut and modify them... you will have a greater appreciation at the durability of simple PLA. Trying to sand large parts for fit is far more effort than it is worth... remodel and reprint.
Oh absolutely! Pla+ is like trying to sand rocks!! I just use filler primer on it, and sand the primer down to get a smooth surface! And definitely not a good idea sanding pla parts down to size that’s for sure!!
For the rivet issues you can try reversing them and modelling them as small depressions instead of bumps. This will print cleaner and at this scale it would be very much the same visually. This trick also works for words and numbers especially when you have them on a side wall of the print.
Thanks for the tip! But it actually works better outside - the walls are designed for a specific number of extruder passes (multiples of 0.4mm), so a rivet on the inside would offset this. A rivet on the outside (less than 0.4mm for support) doesn’t affect the thickness, but just leaves a small air gap behind it.. that’s the problem I had to solve to get the rivets working!
Sam your CAD skills are next level, those models look awesome. Hopefully someday I can get my CAD skills to that level. Great video as always.
We need MORE 3-D printing projects.
that's a great wagon for what you call basic , you have a gift for this 3d printing alchemy, I bet these models have got a lot of modelers inspired about what they can make for their layouts
You can use MEK or acetone to glue your pla together. It melts the surface of the pla and welds it together giving you a stronger bond than super glue.
Sounds awesome William, I’ll be sure to give that a try some time! 😁
Wow, those are great. Would be cool to see some other stuff that aren’t railways, like maybe people, cars, traction engines and stuff- I‘d particularly like to see a Showman‘s engine, they look really cool
Thank you! Sure - I might look into that some time! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Very cool. I also use diagrams for modeling trains cause or how accurate that are. Can’t wait to see more from you
Awesome! It's fun studying them too isn't it? Appreciate the kind words,
Sam :)
Hey Sam i have to say those wagons looks magnificent...by the looks of those wagons...model train manufacturers need to step up their design to beat these haha. Cheers mate and have a good one!
Thank you so much!! If made on an SLA printer, I think it'd be really easy to match what the pros are doing for sure! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Just being cheeky Sam.... No sprung buffers???? Disgraceful! Lol!! Looking great mate!
Sam, great work, showing up the Big Boys, trade up to a Resin Printer, and you’ve cracked it, Sam Polmannby Hobbies, new manufacturer to the Model Rail industry
Interesting indeed and quite some progress you’ve made. 3D printing certainly is on our list for the future for things like accessories along the rails, but most of all… for a prototypical accurate catenary system. There are quite some webshops now offering tons of very prototypical country specific 3d-models. Some of the files are just a few dollars to download. Some are without charge and open source. A catenary system will be the cherry on the cake in the end. An Anycubic resin printer plus materials is going to be a significantly more economical route than manufacturers can offer I suppose. Truly inspirational stuff this.
Thanks very much Linda - and a catenary system would be awesome to try - that's a very good idea! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Sam, thanks for your excellent, insightful and inspiring videos. I’m new to the hobby here in the US and really appreciate the variety of content and I find your product reviews especially helpful. I’ve learned so much from watching you. Great job and please keep it going!
Great to see you making progress in adding more detail to your wagons Sam. Are you planning on trying out resin printing since you can get much higher detail and better print quality as well?
I really enjoyed the video all of the wagons in the video.
Ive made gauge 1 87's, a 56 and mk3 and oo gauge peps. things can get a whole lot more interesting with printing for sure.
you inspire me to make 3d printed model trains. I have done 3d designing and printing before but never once thought about making custom model trains and such with it!
Lovely video Sam with so much going on one to watch thanks for sharing DD.
Sam, all I can say is that I am seriously impressed. Seriously.
I use the same nub as you for the 3D train models I've been printing too, with the exception of the designs for the 2 locos that used screws.
I've been considering switching to use screws instead, and I'm glad to see you already made that same decision.
Well done sam you have certainly stepped your game up with your 3D protect every impressed, looking forward to seeing what you come up with next.
You are really getting into this 3D printing, Sam. I'd like to see you use the same files but printed in resin to compare both outputs from them. The magnetic box combination is a nice little project to do to learn how to utilize CAD software to design items.
I do like the 3D printed coach and brake coach the most
Impressive! ALSO, here's a tip on how you can make the 3D CAD designs easier to make, rather than measuring the blueprints and translating it into sketch up, try finding a way to import the drawings from paper to a digital file to be pated onto a surface in which will hold the blueprints, the scanning bit is easy and various, you can use printers, mobile apps, cameras, whatever floats your boat!
I have a mate who is a computer whizz with a 3D printer and has made me numerous scenery ,fencing,buildings,vehicles,etc.I have shown him Sams vids on the wagons.I think I may have a few presents coming.
Next challenge... Bennerley viaduct haha sweet video dude!
Ooh I love that idea for sure!! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains that would be the coolest thing ever dude! Might have to add a extra line though to your layout. Ohh glad you fixed Thomas!
These models would all look great with spoked wheels no doubt.
Decent video Sam I will definitely have to try 3D printing at some point in the future.
Thanks David - sounds awesome - I can highly recommend it! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi sam
Those wagon bodys and chassis look amazing and the added details look awesome
Thanks so much Lewis - I'm very pleased to have been able to squeeze more detail out of it! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Damn Sams getting pretty good at 3d printing trains
haha thank you! :D
The past printed new today. What a great way.
Hi Sam, top marks, all look fine, All the best Brian 😃
Thanks very much Brian! :D
Nice work on the wagons, looks like you'll have to get a resin printer anyway so that you can get the finer detail in.
Thanks a lot Robin! I'd love to :D
Deluxe Materials Roket Odourless superglue doesn't leave a residue. It can even be used on clear plastics, unlike normal superglues. Takes a bit to get used to it, as it's super runny, but I don't use anything else any more as the drying clear is more important to me.
Sam does it again.! 😆
Ok your Product is, in the Raw or Naked. But it allows people to be able to create a Rake of Model wagons. In which ever Colour or Design the Painter wishes..!
And at such a great price.
Well done Sam..! Who's a Clever fella..!
Cheers all kim in Oz. 😎
It's very interesting how you can fire these guys out with a 3d printer, even though you can see the texture of each layer (at least with the zoomed in camera) I do think it adds a little something as far as texture considering maybe of these cars were built using wooden planks. While you could get "smoothness" with resin, I think this print does the perfect job for it's intention.
Thanks Mike! And bear in mind these aren’t printed at max quality - this was all done at 0.18mm layer height.., these machines can do 0.08mm, though I do 0.18 as it’s the best balance between quality and print time!
Sam, very soon you are going to have your own production line of models - with sprung buffers and all
I would love to try sprung buffers... it'd be a fun challenge! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Very good 3D Printing Sam 🙂🚂🚂🚂
Thank you for your wonderful video showing what is possible. A great lot of ideas. Super information Sam.
Wow your skills have improved so much can't wait to see how you improve over the next year
On the 009/H0e scale bogie chassis I made Jan 21... you can count the individual leafs making up the spring for each wheel. And I solved the issue of the steel axels wearing away the resin in the axel box's. You got a way to go lad.....
Very nice work, sounds awesome! I'm using FDM here though, so adding more detail would be a waste of time before switching to SLA!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains Sam great channel I wish I could say more, but I have been refining my printing & modelling skills for commercial releases. I will say SLA (liquid resin vat) printing can produce superior detail while it's useful to mix differing resins to produce hybrids with increased tensile and hardness qualities. “Have you got a really detailed coal yard on your layout….?” let me know, I’m sure I could accommodate..
Great wagons Sam.
There is some ringing and ghosting visible on the walls of the models. Your speed/acceleration settings might need tuning, or the printer might be getting a bit loose.
Also, if you are willing to invest time in 3D modelling and printing, you might want to switch to some serious CAD tools, like Fusion 360 (desktop) or OnShape (web-based). These are very popular among DIYers and enthusiasts and easy to learn as well.
Next up Station buildings ? Signal box ? The Southern Railway art deco concrete ones may make a good starting point !
Sam I don't know if you using the new Cura but if your not trust me its a game changer for fdm detail Its Cura 5.0. I should really watch the video before commenting if you haven't tried it I've bin printing for a few years and it shocked me how good it is with a standard 0.4 nozzle.
Nice pieces of rolling stock you created from your 3D printer! They look amazing!
Wow nice vid soon I’m going to buy of few loco body’s off ebay and combine them to make my dream tender engine also can you 3D print a south Maitland railway 10 class they are a beautiful looking Australian loco and have a nice story about how all of them were preserved they were all saved by the Australian national trust I think they would be easy to 3D print because they are quite square locos but beautiful ones. Can you also do a series when you look threw your loco scrap yard I love the vids when you’ve done it in the past and I would love to see more vids of them also you should start a n gauge layout it might fit in the loft because n gauge is so small I love the vid.
I always enjoyto see your 3D printed models, and the fact that you can make NEM couplings that work properly, is really cool, not naming any "professional" company who can't manage to make their couplings work, (cough, cough, Heljan! cough) or another company who make/made egg vans. That just goes to show how simple it is to do. So makes me wonder why with all the tech they have on hand, is it that we get models from the same company, that the same type of wagon does not couple to another one! Well done!
I was thinking about it on the moment : for your screws, you said in a precedent video that you dislike self threading screws, why wouldn't you use heat-fitted brass inserts, I tried it once, and can't really go back, the german youtuber CNC kitchen sells them in a lot of sizes on his website and also sells the brass soldering iron tips to press tgem easily in the plastic, the thread is really sturdy and stays for long, he even sells mini-sized ones with m2.5 thread, a good size for modelism in my opinion.
Putting heat-fit inserts in a pla part is a breeze : you prepare a part with a hole of an adapted diameter, for example, the m3 insert needs a 5mm hole, you plug your soldering iron, put the insert on top of the hole, it is a bit larger, completely normal, when your iron gets a little bit hot, put the tip inside the insert's threaded hole, it wil heat it up in order to melt the sides of the hole in the plastic, helping the insert getting into the plastic part, once the insert is in it's hole, remove your soldering iron and let it cool a bit, the plastic will solidify around the insert and trap it into the part
I definitely don’t like self tapping screws - but they’re the most sensible thing to use in this case. These aren’t locomotives - they don’t need to be disassembled for maintenance: the screws go in and stay there, and a small handful of disassembles is perfectly possible (for painting etc) without rendering the screw threads useless. The structure of an FDM printed model is also perfect for self tapping if the screws are inserted perpendicular to the model base. These models are sold for £10 each - they’re not ultra-expensive detailed models like the ones that cost a fortune - I’m not about to increase my prices to add features that aren’t needed!
Amazing you should do your own thomas characters!
I should! That could be fun! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Here are some ideas
A face for Thomas and friends characters
A crane
People for your railways
Modern passenger cars
Era 1 models
You'd be blown away with a resin printer. Incredible detail compared to these. I know you'd not want it in the loft without ventilation but if you have anywhere else in the house they don't take up much room and you tend to leave them for hours anyway. I've got 2 on the go 24/7 at the moment :)
Hey Sam. When you are making those 3D printed boxes, why don't you make them as something to go on the layout such as an Engine Shed or a Waiting Room? That way, you'll know what parts in what box. You can think to yourself, "Ah those are i the Engine Shed!".
haha that's a very creative idea - love it!! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
The new chassis looks good. Although I'd say it should really have the brake lever handle and the handle guide too, now you've added the lever.
Mr. Sam, could you make a 3D printed break down train, including a flatbed, interior, bogie wheel configuration, and it must rotate thanks
great to see small brake coach if the standars one came back i would be very interested in a few sets well done sam
I just though of it after seeing the wagons sides, but it seems that the sides are a little bit of a wave pattern, it could came from the threaded rod(s) of the printer, if the threaded rod is a little bit bended, it's going to deform the printer during the whole print, slightly shifting the printer head in one direction and half a turn of the rod, into the other direction.
Replacing the threaded rod can really improve print quality
It isn’t the threaded rod - it’s ghosting caused by the large mass of the qidi extruder - it can be improved by tightening belts or lowering the print speed!
@@SamsTrains The matter isn't fully about reducing print speed, the main issue is that the extruder has high mass, and as such a lot of inertia, you mainly need to decrease the maximum accelerations (either in the slicer or the printer's own menu if it comes into it's functions)
They are nice wagons. Well done Sam.Martin.(Thailand)
Love to see you make one in o gauge Sam
Taking photos of real models and printing them as a model… Cool idea! I guess it’s only a matter a time before there will be an app for that 🙂 Good video 👍
Sam, I think youve now reached sort of 7- 10 years ago manufacturer quality easily - top work look how long it took them to get there! More locos please 😎
I'm gong to have to knock off a couple of stars for NO sprung buffers, Sam ;) Excellent job , your models keep getting better keep it up!
Lovely job, the printing bug truly is a sticky one! Crackin' designs too, though with the shelf, careful of delamination over time. maybe an epoxy coating over the top will ensure longevity; I've seen a few of my loved prints go that way. Anyway, keep it up, always intrested to see new wagon and loco designs
Thanks a lot Nathan - and good tip - I will keep an eye on that!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I know it's a bit late, but...
*May the 4th be with you*
Great Video Sam I absolutely love it
Cheers Jasper & Willow
Thank you so much folks! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
the progress here is amazing, recently picked up a 3d printer, Ender 3 V2, partly off the back of these videos. not up to detailed "N" gauge stuff but perfect for platforms etc, at least for now.
have you had a look at the likes of "blender" for modelling?
A bit of paint and weathering and jobs a good un. Honestly, even for an exhibition layout, you just don't get that close . You would literally have to have it in your hand.
The cost of even a basic wagon from the suppliers is getting out of hand.
If each wagon costs £5.00 to make , then £100 gets you a good rake.
Oh have you ever used UV setting, clear resin? Just thought it might work for 'flush' glazing! You put some kind of tape over one side of the opening, so that the resin does not run out, and carefuly 'Zap' it with the UV light that comes with the kit, I beleive! All for now take care!
“Two or three things a week” , as well you should my good man !
thought you might have printed some Calderon wagons for your rocket
Cracking content as standard Sam.
Well done mate 👍🏻
I think its time to get a resin printer sam. The amazon branded resin is what i use, its labelled as engineering resin and is sandable, drillable, and flexible and ive managed to use it to make working leaf springs and suspension- that model is out there for free if anyone wants a lowmac, currently making replacement improved bogies for bachmann class 55 which should be a streight swap part- really makes you think of a model differently when you can design replacement upgrade parts for it
Can't do that at the moment as I don't have any ventilation - but the FDM does everything I need it to, as you can see!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Muchas cosas se pueden hacer con 3d excelente video abrazo grande muy bueno
That's very kind Miguel, thank you! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Hi Sam. I've just got one piece of advice for you, regarding a fault that you had with Thomas Hornby locos. Maybe try running him at 30% speed, then that won't happen.
You know sam you've made some trucks, coaches and even 2 trains. Now that is already awesome but what if you make an O scale locomotive(or truck). That would be mega awesome.
Looks like Rusty’s had a go at your index finger 😉
I think for your performance test, maybe you should try propelling longer rakes of your new wagons over points.
A 3D printer is definitely on my list of projects once I get back into modelling in a few years time.
Can you give me a rough idea of the initial equipment investment cost. And the average materials cost to produce a basic four wheel wagon, or a bogie coach?
I know next to nothing yet about 3D printing (apart from what I’ve seen from you).
Also is it possible yet to 3D scan an existing model (coach or wagon body for example) and then produce a copy? Sorry if that might be a stupid question. Ideally I’d like to copy as a first project a standard 16T BR mineral wagon. I’m going to need a lot of those !
If it is possible to scan and print in this way, it’d be great to see you try it out.
All the best
Rob
haha yes - I usually just hide minor injuries to avoid grossing people out!
The initial startup cost is nothing except for the printer itself - I started with only a printer and the filament it came with, which lasted around a month. The PLA+ I use costs around £20 per KG, so we're talking approximately 40p to print a wagon body/chassis - the real cost here is time: time to design, and time to print!
Simply no, you can't scan real life objects and scale them down to make models. This may work for simple objects, but actual models are a compromise between realism and practicality at the end scale. A 3D scan would definitely help to determine dimensions etc though, which would massively aid the design process!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains thanks for the reply. Yep time is the key, and until I retire it will be in short supply. But rolling stock at that price will certainly mean the printer will quickly pay for itself.
When I spoke of scanning I had in mind a scan of certain existing model parts - an old unbuilt Airfix wagon kit for example, rather than the real thing 😂
hey sam! i just had a thought while watching, wht if you made a couple american boxcars for your american loco's especially for your new EMD loco
Great work Sam. Are you intending to try resin 3D printing as some point?
Thanks Paddy! Maybe one day, but my space is unventilated, and the resin is quite toxic - so not at the moment unfortunately!
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains Didn’t realise Sam. Not an expert on 3D printing, just heard the results are finer with resin. Keep up the good work.
Hello Sam. Good video. Thanks for that. I too have been given 3D printers a go. I have designed a BR mk 2 coach. Not sure if I can include a phot/picture on CZcams comments, however I'm most please with the out come. Just need to paint them now. Keep up the good work Sam and see you later. :)
Cheers Andrew - wow that sounds fantastic - maybe you could upload a video of that? I'd love to see! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains Just waiting for some wheels, from Dapol. Once done will do. :D
With the many comments I read, I did not see if you ever listed which printer you are using. What printer and filament did you use in this project?
If Thomas and Friends still went on in Model form, you probably would have been working on it.
Wow that would've been amazing! It would be a scary thing to work on though... a lot of die-hard fans to please! ;D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
@@SamsTrains Indeed it shall. It needs a new special just like the model series used to be. However, the model/cgi hybrid style of season 12 was rather unfavourable. If a Model/CG hybrid special were to be possible for nostalgic reasons and with favourable results, it would have to be by an amazing team with a budget that reaches up to standards.
nice wagons you printed in your 3d printer.
i liked your drawings book on the difrent wagons.
i am looking forward to some new wagon designs.
keep up the smashing work you do sam.
✨✨✨✨✨🇸🇪🇸🇪🇸🇪
Like the boxes Sam, why not put window imprints on the sides and a door on the bottom one use it on the train as a block of flats should solve storage problem and an extra use..
Hi Sam are you ever going to do any O gauge 3-D printing
I'm just getting into 3D printing (at a very late stage in life) for my layout accessories. Do you sell the Gcode files for your wagons, by any chance?
Awesome video today Sam beautiful modles and that truck looks a lot like the trouble some trucks from Thomas
Thanks a lot James - haha that's awesome!! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Nice. Now we need a boogied diesel locomotive. That would be a good challenge for you.
That would!! I'll definitely do one some day! :D
Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Cheers from California old friend ! (Me, not you). What are you up to next ??
Sam, have you thought of releasing the files so that those of us who have (or have access to) a 3D printer can print them ourselves? There are some sites where people have to pay to download your designs. The site does take a cut, but you still get paid for every download. You could even do-it-yourself. I send you the money...you email me the file(s)! You don't have to pay for the wheels, no problems with postage & packing and none of your time taken to print them! A discrete "Sam's Trains" on the underframe and the bottom of the body (advertising!) is also a possibility.