I used 3/4" black pipe and the back end of a pipe clamp for the pin stop of this vise. It works quite well. The vise screw can be bought at Amazon: www.amazon.com...
There is a design flaw of the Yost vise. All clamping pressure is applied toward the small black hollow pin which does not hold good pressure. You need to replace the pin with a solid steel one or weld the T-handle to the screw.
I guess this is softwood. I wonder about that. I've seen a number of videos doing that. Regarding the pipe clamp, I saw a video where he used a linear bearing instead. I don't have a link, but I can see some advantages for it. It didn't like it when the chop canted a bit. I am thinking 2 parallel linear bearings might (one over the other) might work seamlessly. I like putting the leather on the chop side only. Then the edge of the bench is flat all the way across, for clamping long boards.
That loose vise handle is a finger biter. Add an O ring under each end stop to prevent it catching your fingers. It will also make it quieter and less likely to blow the wheels off the ends.
Like someone else already suggested, I actually already had encased the lower pipe in a wooden "tube" (sections drilled out with a forstner bit then glued together. It works really well - and I loved your video. BTW (and I need to add this on Jay's page), on his twin-screw pipe-clamp vise, I decided to do without the ability to skew the jaws, and I added a 1/2" aluminum rod (which I had left over from another project) and insert them inside the 1/2" pipe, securing exposed end to a stop. That gave me an almost unbelievable of depth of travel for the vise when I'm working on larger things.
I love the idea of the black pipe clamp "pin board" solution. However, i don't think it will be long before the threaded nut will pull out of the bench leg. 2 reasons, firstly, there is hardly any meat for the screws to grab into, secondly, the nut should be on the back side of the leg. The location of it now is always trying to pull the screws holding the nut out of the leg.
You might be correct. I wanted to gain a few inches of clamping space by having it on the front side. I did angle the screws in to get more meat but they may loosen over time. I can easily put it on the other side if needed. Thanks for the comment.
You should have put your screw nut the other side of your leg, if the front of your leg was flush with your vice face you would have had to. As it is your vice is just tightening against the screws holding your nut on. Not engineeringly sound.
Great idea, but if I may it would be. Better if the nut or screw, socket whatever you wish to call it was on the back side of the boards thus rallying on the boards and not the screwed to fight the pulling force. Second what about securing the pipe clamp to the bench leg and elongation the release tab so e how so you would eleminat the need to bend over for each use. Or perhaps a cable or rope atached to the clamps release so it could be routed to the back of the bench and not get in the way.
Great leg vise and clever use of the pipe clamp. I gotta ask though about the height of your bench. Isn't it to short for your stature? I would imagine somewhere down the line, the bending over it might become an issue with your lower back. Just curious because I am not sure about the height of my new bench I designed but have not built yet. Thanks for sharing!
Great ideas! I'm using some of them while working on that same solution today. On tightening up the lower pipe. I used an oversized forstner bit to bore a hole in the lower section of wood that the guide bar/pipe will slide through. In my case its a 4 by 4 bench leg. Then I cut two pieces from 1" pvc elbows to make collars which I then split long ways and inserted them in the lower wood section to tighten up the play and to provide for less friction on the lower guide bar/pipe. As with anything others might have to make adjustments in order for the pvc bushing idea to fit their particular situations. A drop of oil inside the pvc never hurts either.
Appears to work ive also seen guys that use a floating wedge On the floor they adjust the bottom width using their foot To push or pull it against the bottom of a leg or toe kick on the bench to adjust the vise holding power I’m a big believer in keeping things simple yet functional it makes for less maintenance and malfunctions
@@IdRatherMakeItMyself-Net What do I know, but I believe the leg vise is on the left for right handed people to allow that room to move to one's right, and screw vises, I notice are on the right to allow for planing across while the body is free to move in front of the bench.
Put a pin in the handle and make it shorter you don't need that much leverage 99% of the time! if you do pull the handle out and put in a piece of black pipe 4 foot long, and then you will have leverage! The straighter the moving jaw vice face is to being parallel to the bench face the less screw pressure you need to secure the work firmly to do most jobs. Otherwise, you might as well fix a dowel in jaw cause that all the clamping area you're getting onto the work piece. Since you mentioned Jay, dump your pipe clamp install and go to a wedge block on the floor, much better and easier to when setting your work in the vice. Even though these leg vices are copied over and over - just look at all the innovation trying to solve the problem of racking! it's a poor vice design in the first-place cause of this issue alone. A single screw vice holding anything off centerline of the screw axis will putting a moment in to the system and the forces have to be counter by some method other means - just look at all the mouse traps that are being applied and tried! Physics wins, poor designs are well poor designs! To me over all for an cheap way out for this vice Jays wedge block is the simples and efficient. One thing is I would put marks on the wedged to show every 1/4" so if my piece of wood is 1.5", I would know where to kick it into to make the vice jaw parallel to the bench. This scale would have to be develop depending on the angle block used and some other aspects like give. Good try , yours would be my next logical choice if that's all I had.
I find your meticulous attention to your own safety enlightening and refreshing...riving knife be damned heh ? What, riving knives ? Old wives tales, stuff spread by old fogeys..what do they know huh ? So I might lose a finger ( or more )...finger shminger...we ain't pussies here! What is even MORE interesting - and revealing - is that nobody, but NOBODY. among all these turkeys here below, has the faintest idea od what this is all about. Semper fi !
Swapping that cuttoff to match angles was a simple, yet effective protip I hope to never forget lol
Love the simple addition of a pipe clamp! Great idea.
There is a design flaw of the Yost vise. All clamping pressure is applied toward the small black hollow pin which does not hold good pressure. You need to replace the pin with a solid steel one or weld the T-handle to the screw.
I guess this is softwood. I wonder about that. I've seen a number of videos doing that.
Regarding the pipe clamp, I saw a video where he used a linear bearing instead. I don't have a link, but I can see some advantages for it. It didn't like it when the chop canted a bit. I am thinking 2 parallel linear bearings might (one over the other) might work seamlessly.
I like putting the leather on the chop side only. Then the edge of the bench is flat all the way across, for clamping long boards.
That loose vise handle is a finger biter. Add an O ring under each end stop to prevent it catching your fingers. It will also make it quieter and less likely to blow the wheels off the ends.
Like someone else already suggested, I actually already had encased the lower pipe in a wooden "tube" (sections drilled out with a forstner bit then glued together. It works really well - and I loved your video.
BTW (and I need to add this on Jay's page), on his twin-screw pipe-clamp vise, I decided to do without the ability to skew the jaws, and I added a 1/2" aluminum rod (which I had left over from another project) and insert them inside the 1/2" pipe, securing exposed end to a stop. That gave me an almost unbelievable of depth of travel for the vise when I'm working on larger things.
I love the idea of the black pipe clamp "pin board" solution. However, i don't think it will be long before the threaded nut will pull out of the bench leg. 2 reasons, firstly, there is hardly any meat for the screws to grab into, secondly, the nut should be on the back side of the leg. The location of it now is always trying to pull the screws holding the nut out of the leg.
You might be correct. I wanted to gain a few inches of clamping space by having it on the front side. I did angle the screws in to get more meat but they may loosen over time. I can easily put it on the other side if needed. Thanks for the comment.
@@IdRatherMakeItMyself-Net You could use bolts&Nuts instead of screws. That should handle the stress.
I just ordered the screw.I might try the pipe clamp idea.Nice work.
You should have put your screw nut the other side of your leg, if the front of your leg was flush with your vice face you would have had to. As it is your vice is just tightening against the screws holding your nut on. Not engineeringly sound.
Very nice!
Genius!
Great idea, but if I may it would be. Better if the nut or screw, socket whatever you wish to call it was on the back side of the boards thus rallying on the boards and not the screwed to fight the pulling force. Second what about securing the pipe clamp to the bench leg and elongation the release tab so e how so you would eleminat the need to bend over for each use. Or perhaps a cable or rope atached to the clamps release so it could be routed to the back of the bench and not get in the way.
Definitely love the pipe clamp addition. Thank you very much. I will be making something similar soon.
Vise beeitefrna rociodurcalb
Vise
Great leg vise and clever use of the pipe clamp. I gotta ask though about the height of your bench. Isn't it to short for your stature? I would imagine somewhere down the line, the bending over it might become an issue with your lower back. Just curious because I am not sure about the height of my new bench I designed but have not built yet. Thanks for sharing!
Great ideas! I'm using some of them while working on that same solution today. On tightening up the lower pipe. I used an oversized forstner bit to bore a hole in the lower section of wood that the guide bar/pipe will slide through. In my case its a 4 by 4 bench leg. Then I cut two pieces from 1" pvc elbows to make collars which I then split long ways and inserted them in the lower wood section to tighten up the play and to provide for less friction on the lower guide bar/pipe. As with anything others might have to make adjustments in order for the pvc bushing idea to fit their particular situations. A drop of oil inside the pvc never hurts either.
I've also seen a bottom screw used in that position with the nut bearing against the leg to bring the vise into parallel
Very clever with the pipe and clamp, nice job!
I'm making a bench here soon and will be using some of your ideas.
Thanks!
Y⁶ķķ
I would have encased the lower stabilizer pipe to eliminate the wobble. Otherwise, not a bad design.
Appears to work ive also seen guys that use a floating wedge On the floor they adjust the bottom width using their foot To push or pull it against the bottom of a leg or toe kick on the bench to adjust the vise holding power I’m a big believer in keeping things simple yet functional it makes for less maintenance and malfunctions
It works. I didn't go with the wedge because I knew I would be moving the bench all around the shop and the wedge wouldn't be there when I needed it.
Nut misplaced, the screws that hold it are insufficient
Sorry my bad ingles
Yes he installed the flanged nut on the wrong side of the wood.
Hi, Do you know what minimum thickness to choose for the vise if made of oak? Thanks for your great video.
Why extend the leg so far elbow the lower pipe?
That loose fitting lower bar wobble would drive me insane, not to mention cause additional wear on the vise over time.
Can I ask Mark, how low can the screw go on a leg vice. Is it just a matter of ergonomics?
Why is a righty installing a left-handed leg vise? Nice repurpose of toy wheels~signed lefty
I didn't know there was a righty and lefty side designation. It works well for me on this side.
@@IdRatherMakeItMyself-Net What do I know, but I believe the leg vise is on the left for right handed people to allow that room to move to one's right, and screw vises, I notice are on the right to allow for planing across while the body is free to move in front of the bench.
Put a pin in the handle and make it shorter you don't need that much leverage 99% of the time! if you do pull the handle out and put in a piece of black pipe 4 foot long, and then you will have leverage! The straighter the moving jaw vice face is to being parallel to the bench face the less screw pressure you need to secure the work firmly to do most jobs. Otherwise, you might as well fix a dowel in jaw cause that all the clamping area you're getting onto the work piece. Since you mentioned Jay, dump your pipe clamp install and go to a wedge block on the floor, much better and easier to when setting your work in the vice. Even though these leg vices are copied over and over - just look at all the innovation trying to solve the problem of racking! it's a poor vice design in the first-place cause of this issue alone. A single screw vice holding anything off centerline of the screw axis will putting a moment in to the system and the forces have to be counter by some method other means - just look at all the mouse traps that are being applied and tried! Physics wins, poor designs are well poor designs! To me over all for an cheap way out for this vice Jays wedge block is the simples and efficient. One thing is I would put marks on the wedged to show every 1/4" so if my piece of wood is 1.5", I would know where to kick it into to make the vice jaw parallel to the bench. This scale would have to be develop depending on the angle block used and some other aspects like give. Good try , yours would be my next logical choice if that's all I had.
I find your meticulous attention to your own safety enlightening and refreshing...riving knife be damned heh ? What, riving knives ? Old wives tales, stuff spread by old fogeys..what do they know huh ? So I might lose a finger ( or more )...finger shminger...we ain't pussies here!
What is even MORE interesting - and revealing - is that nobody, but NOBODY. among all these turkeys here below, has the faintest idea od what this is all about. Semper fi !
Bit fiddly . Too much faffing & wobble for me.
WTF is "faffing"?
That's a new one for me.
@@sunriseshell Faffing is a UK English expression it means messing around with things instead of them being easy