YOUR NEXT LEG VISE....PLEASE WATCH!
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- čas přidán 30. 12. 2020
- I wanted to build my leg vise ever since the day I built the bench.
I took some 2x8 stock and milled it down to the size I wanted. I wanted a 9 inch jaw but wanted to reduce the wood on the leg itself to reduce weight on the Yost screw and the linear bearing.
I cut the lumber to length.
I glued the timber on a flat surface and ran it through my planer. I took the grain and set the two pieces to match up and glued them together.
After the glue dried I milled flat and planed them flat with my Stanley #5 plane. I held the vise in place on the bench where I wanted it to be and drilled my hole for the screw vise. I them connected the vise with the Yost screw and found where I wanted to place the 30mm linear bearing. I had to make sure that the linear bearing would not be in any bind so this was critical. I drilled the linear hole with a 12" extension and a 1 1/2" hold saw. I used a ring on the shaft of the bit extension to keep me level to know I was not drilling in an upward or downward position. I then mounted the linear bearing inside the hole with stainless steel screws. I took the 30mm linear rod (1055 Carbon Steel, 30 mm Diameter, 500 mm Long) that I purchased from Mcmaster-Carr and used epoxy to set it inside the leg chop. I finished it off with boiled linseed oil to match the table. I put some leather on the inside of the jaws for better grip. Now onto my next vise on the end of the bench. What do you guys think?
VXB Brand LMEK30LUU 30mm Long Square Flanged Bushing Linear Motion Type: Flanged Linear Motion Ball Bushing Size: 30mm x47mm x123mm Quantity: One
rb.gy/0elpws
Yost Tools, 18" Vise Screw, Model Y18SS Leg Vise
rb.gy/d3lkfz
IRWIN 12 x 1/4 In. Bit Extension
rb.gy/dercxt
1 1/4" Speed bit Lowes
low.es/38U0UaC
Linear Motion Shaft-Mcmaster-Carr
1055 Carbon Steel, 30 mm Diameter, 500 mm Long
6112K74
bit.ly/3huNd6a - Jak na to + styl
Sweet, the ring on the extension was a great idea for holding level. Happy New year!
Yes. I saw that years ago and it works great. Happy new year to you guys.
Thanks Marty! That looks like a great implementation.
It has and still being used almost every day. Love this.
Outstanding. I was looking for a simple leg-vise without the expensive hardware for bench build. Great work!
Glad you like it! Same for me too.
Glad I'm not the only person with gription issues
Looks like it came out real good Marty.
Thanks a lot Jeff. It turned out great. Use it all the time and no issues
Hi! How is the clamping force with this setup? I see so many use the pin-style and the wedge-style, and say that it is critical in order to get proper clamping force. I really like your method, as long as it holds the work piece tight.
It works great. It clamps my items. I sometimes might use a wedge on the bottom but don’t think it’s needed.
Me gusta ver como hacen su trabajo
gracias. a mí también me gusta verlos
How's the steel rod to vise fitting holding up? I also have a 30mm rod with two linear bearings and just want to be sure the connection will hold up to the clamping forces. I'll be using a 2.25" eastern maple slab for the vise.
Holding up great. I use it all the time.
How long is it??
Were you able to use the 2x8s straight from the store or did you have to let them dry out for a while. Great leg vise. Thank you.
Thanks for watching. I did plane them to get them true. I had this material a while. It’s untreated wood So far it’s held up very well. I love it. Thanks again
nice job
Thank you! Cheers!
what did you use for the guide bar at the base? Thanks for sharing?
I used a 30mm linear bearing and shaft. You still need to use a wedge or something but it works great.
Have you tried to take the black hollow pin out to see the construction of the vise? All Yost vises have the same serious problem: The screw part at the T-handle is smaller than the rest. So that the Thrust Plate (oval part) does not handle the clamping pressure but transfer this to the black hollow pin! Additionally, the black hollow pin handles the turning strength as well! The T-handle will pop right out when there is enough pressure! This is the design flaw. How to fix this? 1. Weld the T-handle to the Screw or take the hollow pin out and enlarge the holes on both T-handle and the Screw then use a solid steel rod to replace the hollow pin.
Interesting. I’ll have to keep a watch out for that. Thank you for the advise. I didn’t know that.
Does the linear bearing make it pinless?
Not really. I am able to clamp items but it does have a small bind if you really crank on it. I do use a wedge if I really want to clamp tighter as to not put undo stress on the linear shaft in the chop. Hope this helps and thank you for watching
Did you just epoxy or wood glue the linear bearing shaft into the chop?
Hand planes can take years to learn
Thank you. Yes, I learn from mine about each time I use it. Love the plane
Word of advice to all you tubers. TURN OFFTHE DANG RADIOS AND TV’S in the background! Apparently Marty didn’t want to miss his favorite soap opera. Talk about a distraction for the viewers.
Thanks for watching Tim. Yes I wished I had turned it off. I didn’t even realize it was on until I did the video footage and well I wasn’t going to lose the video. I do like my Grit TV.