Good idea but really the underlying reason your fastener doesn't also back out is locktite which, of course, can be applied to the original bolt. I have never had a problem removing a fastener, using a basic wrench, that was treated with locktite. Reinstalling on the trail would require carrying locktite but you are presumably carrying some kind of tool kit anyway (the wrench at least) if you are going to service on the trail. But it is more efficient to not have to carry locktite. Anyway nice work. If the pulley rides on an unthreaded shoulder portion of the original bolt I would make the stud out of a longer bolt with a shoulder, cut off the hex head, cut enough threads on the head end to tighten so as to maintain the shoulder aspect of the original design. Thx for the vid.
You're not getting mine out "on the trail" with a "basic wrench" when I installed it the right way in the first place. It has wadded up chains and ruined belts when either went bad while riding like everything else does, but you're getting that bolt out "on the trail" when it's been put in correctly.
IMO this is the best way to do this. These would never come loose if they used left handed threads in the crankshaft. All that torque is in the direction of loosening the bolt. It's no wonder they come loose.
Actually RH threads seem to be the correct setup. Motor turns CCW and pulley is being pulled on by the belt in the CW direction. Since the bolt head is on the pulley the forces are trying to tighten it. But this doesn’t really matter as it is a keyed pulley. It’s purely vibration causing this to become loose. I think most people have issues because they are only tightening by hand and letting the engine rotate while doing so. I’ve always hit it with an impact driver or do the hit a wrench with a hammer method and haven’t had an issue. I have bandsaw with a bottom wheel that is LH thread but the motor turns clockwise.
@@TheVintageEngineer Interesting... So if any loosening is caused by crankshaft versus the bolted on accessory it would occur during deceleration/engine braking. I had the same loosening issue on my early 70's push leaf blower that I repowered with a 196cc Greyhound. I could not keep the impeller (fan) from loosening. The thing weighs at least 7 lb or more. I had to go to extremes and use the longest bolt and loctite 680 which is incorrect and a "fill the gap" loctite. Hasn't loosened since and its been 10 years. I would never use 680 for the mini bike application. I had to cut down and add threads to the shoulder of the 2 1/2" bolt for my Coleman build using a NOS Greyhound. The 2 1/2" inch bolt and washers bottomed in the crank with the TAV2 drive pulley. The HW store didn't have a 2 1/4" bolt.
2SlickNick haven’t had a chance to test it out yet on a long ride. Been balls cold here lately. Only thing I might change is the clip style. Thanks for the support.
It depends. If you have an older CT200U with a 3/4" shaft it should use 5/16-24. If you have a newer one one or an EX or BT200X then they have a 5/8 or 16mm shaft and they use a metric M6 bolt I believe.
@@TheVintageEngineer Thank you. I have a new Predator 212, my research shows it is 5/16-24. Have a wonderful evening. ( ; ) ) I found 12 inch lengths of 5/16-24 at Grainger Supply for like a buck a piece.
Don DeLaire because the pin sticks out I changed it to a cotter pin and bent the tabs around the rod. Local hardware store should have a good selection so just eyeball it.
@@TheVintageEngineer I have a realtree rt100 105cc and I can’t find a bolt that fits the clutch I know it’s a 5/8 bore but I’ve tried so many boots and I can’t get any luck
I'm trying to figure out the exact bolt size too so i can order a new one but can't seem to find the answer anywhere. Who would have thought finding out what size a bolt is on a crankshaft would be such a difficult task lol ?
Maybe because lock washers don’t work. Even NASA lists them as “useless” in their Fastener Design Manual (RP-1228). Castellated nut systems work 1000x better and because of the better positive locking they are virtually vibration proof.
I am wondering the same thing. The castle nut + pin is basically just recreating a fixed hex head. If the pin were attached to a nearby stud fixed to the torque converter or something, that would keep the whole bolt from backing out. As it is your just recreating a bolt and as stated in another comment, the locktite is doing all the work. Please correct me if I'm wrong. So I see how it's better than a nut on a threaded stud. But I don't see how it's better than a bolt with a hex head. I don't know the technical definition for positive locking, but I imagine it's something like is used in helicopter propellers where holes are drilled in the propeller mounting bolts and a cable is run through all the bolts.
I agree with you and NASA on lock washers. However, I am not a fan of castle nuts because of what I have seen in farm equipment. They can and do work loose in certain situations. In those situations, a metal or nylon insert lock nut is better.@@TheVintageEngineer
So the front asembly pops appart so the outside peice stays and the inner cover pops off on the drive shaft forgive if its not proper terminology how would i fix that
Just pull the starter rope while you're tightening it and it will allow you to torque the bolt down to required amount.
Omg thank you. I loctite red the rod into the shaft so I don't have to worry about it. I used a nylon nit combined with the pin for extra safety.
Great tip. I'm converting my CT200U to CVT right now and I'll be making this mod, thanks!
you my friend are a fricking genius!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! bolts come loose on our 3 bikes daily!!!! off to home depot! thank you!
Be careful, HD may not have the 5/16-24 threaded rod. I had to get mine at Fastenal IIRC.
Thank you this helped a lot the hex bolt on my torque converter keeps on falling off
Having the exact problem with mine ,thanks for the tip I will try it thanks Dale
AWESOME MY FRIEND!!!!THANK U!!!
Brilliant tip
Thank you so much we just bought one for The kids and we’re having that issue. Thank you. Great video.👍🏼
You can always put a dab of loctite on but it might cause a slight hassle getting it off next time.
@@TheVintageEngineer I’m gonna try lock washers first. Hope it works. Thank you.
Great job
Good idea but really the underlying reason your fastener doesn't also back out is locktite which, of course, can be applied to the original bolt. I have never had a problem removing a fastener, using a basic wrench, that was treated with locktite. Reinstalling on the trail would require carrying locktite but you are presumably carrying some kind of tool kit anyway (the wrench at least) if you are going to service on the trail. But it is more efficient to not have to carry locktite. Anyway nice work. If the pulley rides on an unthreaded shoulder portion of the original bolt I would make the stud out of a longer bolt with a shoulder, cut off the hex head, cut enough threads on the head end to tighten so as to maintain the shoulder aspect of the original design. Thx for the vid.
You're not getting mine out "on the trail" with a "basic wrench" when I installed it the right way in the first place.
It has wadded up chains and ruined belts when either went bad while riding like everything else does, but you're getting that bolt out "on the trail" when it's been put in correctly.
BRAVO SIR! thank you!
Use a cotter pin. Otherwise, great!
IMO this is the best way to do this. These would never come loose if they used left handed threads in the crankshaft. All that torque is in the direction of loosening the bolt. It's no wonder they come loose.
Actually RH threads seem to be the correct setup. Motor turns CCW and pulley is being pulled on by the belt in the CW direction. Since the bolt head is on the pulley the forces are trying to tighten it. But this doesn’t really matter as it is a keyed pulley. It’s purely vibration causing this to become loose. I think most people have issues because they are only tightening by hand and letting the engine rotate while doing so. I’ve always hit it with an impact driver or do the hit a wrench with a hammer method and haven’t had an issue. I have bandsaw with a bottom wheel that is LH thread but the motor turns clockwise.
@@TheVintageEngineer Interesting... So if any loosening is caused by crankshaft versus the bolted on accessory it would occur during deceleration/engine braking.
I had the same loosening issue on my early 70's push leaf blower that I repowered with a 196cc Greyhound. I could not keep the impeller (fan) from loosening. The thing weighs at least 7 lb or more. I had to go to extremes and use the longest bolt and loctite 680 which is incorrect and a "fill the gap" loctite. Hasn't loosened since and its been 10 years. I would never use 680 for the mini bike application.
I had to cut down and add threads to the shoulder of the 2 1/2" bolt for my Coleman build using a NOS Greyhound. The 2 1/2" inch bolt and washers bottomed in the crank with the TAV2 drive pulley. The HW store didn't have a 2 1/4" bolt.
Can you tell me the length of the treaded rod please?
I had the same problem and once I got it locked in the bolt broke on me so I switched to a clutch
What is the size of the back bolt
Just buy it 1/4” shorter than that threaded rod??
Huh... So how has this worked out for you this far? Cool idea. I'll show some support and hit the subscribe button.
2SlickNick haven’t had a chance to test it out yet on a long ride. Been balls cold here lately. Only thing I might change is the clip style. Thanks for the support.
Is 5/16-24 the size of the stock bolt, so I'd use 5/16-24 thread rod for this mod? Thanks for your time and awesome tip.
It depends. If you have an older CT200U with a 3/4" shaft it should use 5/16-24. If you have a newer one one or an EX or BT200X then they have a 5/8 or 16mm shaft and they use a metric M6 bolt I believe.
@@TheVintageEngineer Thank you. I have a new Predator 212, my research shows it is 5/16-24. Have a wonderful evening. ( ; ) )
I found 12 inch lengths of 5/16-24 at Grainger Supply for like a buck a piece.
Hello again. What size hitch clip pin did you use? Thanks.
Don DeLaire because the pin sticks out I changed it to a cotter pin and bent the tabs around the rod. Local hardware store should have a good selection so just eyeball it.
neat !
So I have the stock crank shaft with the sleeve that turns it to a 3/4. Having trouble finding a bolt that fits. Any suggestions?
Cory Luke smaller cranks use a metric M6 bolt
Use the supplied bolt pull the crank rope while tightening the bolt. Thats all you have to do
@@TheVintageEngineer I have a realtree rt100 105cc and I can’t find a bolt that fits the clutch I know it’s a 5/8 bore but I’ve tried so many boots and I can’t get any luck
A question to anyone what's the size and length of the stock bolt and does it also have a lockwaser and flat washer on it?
I'm trying to figure out the exact bolt size too so i can order a new one but can't seem to find the answer anywhere. Who would have thought finding out what size a bolt is on a crankshaft would be such a difficult task lol ?
If it is the 3/4 shaft it is a 5/16x24 2 1/2 in and it has both lock and flat washer. Torque to 26 to 30 fp. Hope this helps
Great idea
How did u do the hole in the middle ?
Center punch, hold in vise, and used drill press. Could just use regular drill and vise for such a small hole
The damn thing came off my bike, They should be lock tight when you buy the damn thing.
Yes sir
It becomes a pain when you need to change the belt
Why not just buy a grade 8 Hardened bolt with a hardened lock washer and torque it to 40ft,. Pounds that’s what the Manufacturer recommends 🤔
Maybe because lock washers don’t work. Even NASA lists them as “useless” in their Fastener Design Manual (RP-1228). Castellated nut systems work 1000x better and because of the better positive locking they are virtually vibration proof.
@@TheVintageEngineer you sir are the king of nerds. That said, I subbed and liked!!!!
I am wondering the same thing. The castle nut + pin is basically just recreating a fixed hex head. If the pin were attached to a nearby stud fixed to the torque converter or something, that would keep the whole bolt from backing out. As it is your just recreating a bolt and as stated in another comment, the locktite is doing all the work. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
So I see how it's better than a nut on a threaded stud. But I don't see how it's better than a bolt with a hex head.
I don't know the technical definition for positive locking, but I imagine it's something like is used in helicopter propellers where holes are drilled in the propeller mounting bolts and a cable is run through all the bolts.
I agree with you and NASA on lock washers. However, I am not a fan of castle nuts because of what I have seen in farm equipment. They can and do work loose in certain situations. In those situations, a metal or nylon insert lock nut is better.@@TheVintageEngineer
So the front asembly pops appart so the outside peice stays and the inner cover pops off on the drive shaft forgive if its not proper terminology how would i fix that