Pioneer Mini Split FULL DETAILED DIY INSTALL
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- čas přidán 5. 09. 2021
- This video shows you how to install a Pioneer mini-split unit completely from unboxing to having it up and running! Mike Todmann, an HVAC pro, is my guest host guiding me through the entire process. You can reach him at triadcomfort@gmail.com
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1/2" Concrete Bit: amzn.to/3jMRlBa
Liquid Tight 1/2 conduit: amzn.to/3nd0yoF
Liquid Tight straight connector: amzn.to/38KCrFg
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Pipe and tube cutting tool: amzn.to/2X09Wks
Disconnect box: amzn.to/4bMiexO
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I am a Do It Yourself, also known as DIY, mechanic. I am NOT a professional mechanic. I do not have any formal training in the automotive field.
Help Me DIY assumes no liability for anything you choose to do to your car, before, or after watching one of my videos or utilizing the content from this web site.
All DIY repairs or modifications you perform to your car are made at your own risk. Sometimes, even if you've done everything the right way, you can destroy or damage one or more things on your car. You must understand this, but by leveraging knowledge and patience, the probability of encountering one or more problems can be reduced.
Also, if for some unfortunate reason, I do give incorrect instructions and something breaks because you followed my instructions, I will NOT reimburse or pay in any way for whatever cost that may be incurred due to following my wrong instructions.
Lastly, please don't do anything to your car unless you yourself feel comfortable and confident in doing so. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
This was the most informative and clear install video on mini splits I have seen , from the lecture on the vacuum and the reduction in boiling water to the learnings on the copper flaring , to the need for nitrogen this was a big win all over . Many thanks keep up the good work and the tech mr Mike was awesome I feel I got a 30 years of experience watching this video , 😀😀👌🏾💪🏽👍🏽
+Dale Nesty thank you sir! 🍻
Half of this video has trash info. Only people that have no idea how to do anything things is informative.
Ive watched several DIY mini split install videos. As a tech, this video is excellent. Its great having a real tech lead the project in real time.
+8ty6ed yes, it’s a HUGE help. Thanks! 🍻
One of the best videos on how to install a mini split.
+Tony's Tractor Adventure Homestead thanks! 🍻
Great video. After watching and going over 100 comments my takeaway on this is that I can do about 90% of the physical install, but I need to get a pro for the line connections and leak detection, etc. I can do unboxing, positioning, drilling, mounting, snaking.
Absolutely best video on mini splits on CZcams 100% That’s a good tech.Two great guys wish the world was filled with more of you,God Bless
+Brian Herald appreciate that, thank you! 🙏🍻
10/10 on this kit… really considering for my garage after being in your garage and feeling how well it works… with the garage door wide open!
+Eric Ho it’s a hoss! And thanks to your suggestion I got the M4 up on the lift for the first time today. 💪😎
Getting our 24k Pioneer set up now and this video was a huge help. #1 thing that you saved my butt with; we made a faux wall in our metal building and I almost forgot to put a temp piece of drywall up!!! Would have been a nightmare putting that under it post-install. Thank you.
+Jason Mayne haha you’re welcome! 🍻
Best install video I've seen. Thanks.
+John Piek thanks! Hope you’re a subscriber now 😉
*MISSED STEP* at 23:14 right underneath the three wires you can see a small white plastic rectangle-this is a safety wire retaining clip that should be removed and reattached with the wires underneath.
Otherwise, I absolutely agree with everybody. This is the best video out there. Thank you.
+@SignMster thanks! 🍻
*I really **_want_** your garage. But what I really **_need_** is my own personal Mr. Mike Todmann. OMG he is a endless well of knowledge/information. Thx to you both for taking the time and effort to make/post this keen video. Much appreciated.*
+TommyT indeed! 😎🍻
Great and thorough video! The video length is needed to properly convey what we’re up against! I bought a 48k btu Pioneer and most hvac companies don’t want to touch it so this video is helpful.
+Danny Quiroz thank you!
Wow,
😮what an informative video, I just bought 2 mini splits and now I feel much better about putting them in, thanks so much!!!
+@user-on1ob4pc4g you’re welcome, glad it helped! Hope you’re a subscriber now 😉🍻
Good explanation, positive vs. negative pressure test. thanks
+Ace Golfman you got it! 🍻
Thank you for this detailed explanation!
+Phil Grape you’re welcome! 🍻
Thank you for the help. Very informative
+Anthony Virgadamo you’re welcome 🍻
Great video with a lot of of details thanks
+@anthonygarraud9812 you’re welcome! 🍻
Just got my first Della 9000 BTU installed before the cold. I have 500 square feet and live with a dog. Liked it so much I jerked out the old furnace and gas water heater. I use a 2 gallon electric for under sink and 7 gallon electric for shower which both hang on the wall with kit they come with. Along with LIPO4 150ah battery and 2 small solar arrays I can run mini split off grid in daytime then auto transfer switch at night back to home service.
If I lost power I could heat water and take a shower by using the DC setup and also wash dishes same way. Temp using battery after daylight then let solar recharge in daylight. LOVE the mini split! It is so quiet and I am heating my home with it. Next summer same thing only AC ;)
+@skew57 that’s pretty cool! 🍻
Great vid, I’m about to install 12 btu pioneer unit my self. I just installed 24 btu mr cool DIY. N it was easy.
+Rafi Taino thanks!! 🍻
Great video!
+Cody+ 😎🍻
Thanks for the video
+Ryan B 💪🍻
Clean install, but as a pro he should be using a micron gauge and check decay, torque wrench on flares with (in my opinion) nylog, and add a surge protector with any inverter unit. If he used a little nylog or lubricant when he flared, he may have prevented the cracked copper.
Yeah the "pro" did a lot of things wrong.
Could you put some Amazon links to those items you mentioned?
Great content
+Penny pinch Home finder thanks! 🍻
Good video, I have the same unit sitting in my shop ready for install. Helps me see how I want to do my install. One point though, use the supplied strain relief for the control wires, both on the interior and exterior units.
+Ted Gail thanks!
With 2 wire 220v the white should be marked with red electrical tape to indicate that is a hot leg also.
+Tanker 1/66 correct
I am getting ready to do a couple mini splits... and have most of the tools I'll need. The only thing I can't see buying is a nitrogen setup for positive pressure. You would think at this point a company would have developed an inexpensive small tank and gauge system for these new installs for the DIYers (feel free to steal my idea)... that said great install video. I ordered a newer Pioneer for my own install. I had a couple others in mind, but found most didn't actually work in temperatures down to zero and below which was critical for my needs.
+Doug Phelps thanks and yea I agree!
28:39 Pioneer these days includes Nylog and requires to use it. Manual also specifies torque values for the fittings. The video is helpful, thanks. If you rename it to highlight the in wall installation for the lineset it will sure get more views, this video is the only one that I found that has liniset installed inside. I'd say "Mini split installation with hiding lineset in the wall" or something like that - this is what makes it special
+A K good feedback thank you! Cheers
Good points. I am so glad the unit connection above (in wall) did Not leak!
Great video. I always thought you should not drill/anchor into mortar as it is “soft” and can loosen over time.
+@robinphilip5747 thank you! And you’re probably right. 🍻
Hey, there was a little white clip with a screw in it under the wires going to the inside unit...remove it, wires under it, reinstall. It's the strain relief so the tug test actually means something
+Adam R thanks!
You are doing it wright
+Luciano DeFilippo thanks 😊
Romex (NM-B) cable is not allowed to be run outside even in a conduit.
I allow it. Works fine 😆
Nice install. Curious that you buttoned up the indoor unit without any leak detection. At least a bubble check.
We did perform a leak test on all joints. We may have not recorded the soap test on the evaporator joints. Great observation though.
Use crows foot and torque wrench on flare fittings!
with a drop of Nylog....^^^^Best comment in this section. 1/4 lines only need 10-13 ftlb. Not a death grip to deform the flare.
Thank you for the video! I am waiting on my Pioneer unit to show up so I can put it in. I will be watching this and pausing it many times. Question regarding the hole saw: is that bit depth (1.6”) enough to get through exterior brick? I was hoping to find a bit that is 6” long or at least long enough to get through brick. Having trouble finding one. I guess I could pilot a hole all the way through and then use the hole saw to go at it from both sides. Thoughts?
+NoService well those bits weren’t mine, so all I really know/remember is what’s in the video 🍻
Just wanted to say thinks for posting this video. I have the EXACT same kit and the setup is so similar (same unit, pre-run 220 wiring, in-wall line set, lines down the left side, etc)! One thing you guys didn't touch on, is what did you do with the drain tube or how did you fasten it on the exterior?
+Jeremy it just runs along the other lines and then hangs loose down to the ground. Well, it’s cut to length about an inch from the ground
Air and moisture creates non condensible in the in the lines set if you released the refrigerant with moisture and air the refrigerant will over time create acid in the refrigerant causing acid to be introduced to the refrigerant that can damage your motor windings in your compressor . Nitrogen pressure testing will help check for leaks and also wick air moisture out of the line set. Important to do a vacuum to make a dry system by removing air and moisture and serves as a leak detection if the if the micron gage won’t hold at 400 microns and continues to rise it will indicate you have a leak in the system.
+Barry Ford yes, that’s why we did it 😁
Use right kind of flaring tool. Refrigeration flaring tool not plumbing. Fixed a lot of slow leaks because of this.
+John Coplen just googled that and absolutely nothing comes up as the difference between a refrigeration vs a plumbing flaring tool.
I believe John is referring to an 45° eccentric flaring tool, which is different than a standard flaring tool. This tool is what is usually specified for mini split installations along with a specific torque spec for the flaring fitting connection. There is a lot of things Google doesn't know unless you know and ask specifically.
Just a point in fact pioneer ductless mini splits and other brands in the installation instructions always recommend a torque wrench to torque the flare fittings to a specific ft lbs of torque so to insure the flare doesn’t split due to over tightening the fitting can also result in stripping the threads result in leaks which are not good for start up of a new system.
+Barry Ford good point
Yep totally not a pro install without using a torque wrench even a diy install should use a torque wrench the adapter isn't much money to do it properly and not have issues.
1:16:50 you should be getting a reading in the 40s directly exiting the vent. Unless the unit was not producing full cooling at this point.
It was 90f outside, and 80f+ inside, 55f is plenty of cooling power at those temperatures..
Great video, very detailed. 👏 👏 I have the exact Pioneer unit (dual zone)in its box ready for install (through brick 😢). My question is why did you use 12/2 instead of say 8 gauge over that distance? Thanks (ps: clarified that I wasted $60 on the clean out kit…I need to bring in a pro like your friend)
+Mike Conner thanks! Because it’s what I had probably… 8 gauge is freaking expensive and this is working perfectly 😁
Thx for the video - I didn't understand how the vacuum was maintained when you disconnected the vacuum pump until I heard the hiss after the disconnect - then it dawned on me that's it's the same type of valve that are on car tires. Can you provide a link for the adapter needed to connect the blue vacuum line to this unit?
+steve feder you’re welcome! All the links are in the description below
Just a minor correction to your statement that the 220 volt unit will use less electricity, which is actually incorrect. The only savings when using 220 volts is if you have to run your wire a long distance, because you can use a smaller gauge wire which will cost you less money. We buy electricity by watts, (kilowatts = 1000 watts) and watts are a product of the amperage times the voltage so in the end, a unit running on 220 volts will draw about half the amperage as that of a unit running on 120 volts, requiring a smaller gauge wire but the wattage consumed is the same because amps times the voltage still comes out to the same wattage, (not considering the power factor which in this case would be negligable). The only other adice would be to have your friend add a bottle of Nylog lubricant to his bag along with an eccentric flaring tool. The eccentric flaring tool gives a smoother face to the flare ensuring a better seal for longer system life. Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
+ranckie you’re welcome and thanks for taking the time to leave the additional notes! 🍻
Not true, research it and you will find that using 220v versus 120v does use less electricity. 220v is always cheaper to run than a 120v unit because the 220v produces more power with less amps than an 120v system. Everything you said is wrong.
@@winkyfab2860your absolutely right!
I wanna know what utility runs 220 to a home. Worked all over the US and never supplied anything but 240 yo a residence
@@winkyfab2860 It uses slightly less electricity because of % waste due to wire resistance. But it's not because it's using half the amps. The electricity you are using is volts x amps = watts. So for 240v, you are using half the amps of 120v, but the watts is the same. Check your electric bill. You are not being charged for kiloamp-hours. You are being charged for kilowatt hours.
31:30 That drain line is connected wrong. The indoor unit has two drain ports. You are supposed to use the drain port closest to the wall hole and plug the other side. The drain line is not supposed to run sideways like that.
Good catch! I think you are correct on most models at least. Thanks!
The video is great overall, but I may have missed it. From the sub breaker is there no connection for a neutral? I see two line load connections and a ground only for the 220 wired unit.
+Joseph Havian it’s all grounded
No leak test on the lines at the indoor unit, there sealed in the wall, I would run connection lines through the wall to the outside for easy access.
+Thomas Lamb not a bad idea
It doesn't matter which pressure test you do. If you have a leak, you'll need to do a vacuum again, which will remove all the moisture
Does using KWIK-E-VAC do the same thing? I know doing this doesn't allow you to see any pressure or vacume numbers but it seems to be about the same process minus a lot of steps
Good question. Don’t know what that is though so 🤷♂️
Good info here. Wondering why you used so little drywall. If you finish that space it's gonna be hard to tape seams right up and even behind that wall unit.
+@rshinn8776 thanks! Drywall situation was because those were the small sizes I could buy at Home Depot knowing I had professionals coming to do the rest 😉🍻
@HelpMeDIY ok one of those, "not my problem" type things lol. Doing my own mini split right now and your video is a big help.
Believe this unit has a inverter which will modulate like a vfd .
Why didn't you put hole right behind the indoor unit and put the lines straight back to connect to the lines from the outdoor unit like everyone else does? Way easier to connect rather than trying to do so behind a propped up IDU and also easier to keep an eye on these connections for leaks both initially and over time.
Yeah, and as others have said- need proper torque wrench and Nylog.
Precisely my thoughts.
This was my puzzlement the entire time I was watching. I was waiting and waiting to hear the fantastic reason why this needed to be inside the wall. Like, "Oh! This is Canada and it gets to -60F so during those temps we need to blah blah blah." Now if you ever need to swap out the unit in the future you've got two major projects to get done.
I am getting ready to install same brand unit and instructions say best way is out the back on left side but most people go out the back on right.
The only reason I can see to do it this way was to hide the lines inside the wall.
surge protector disconnect box? is there a link for this
+@domenicming9551 added a link to the disconnect box to the description 🍻
36:50 Question: any wisdom on anchoring into mortar vs the brick? Like will the mortar crumble after a few years of vibration?
+@hgodtx good question. I can tell you that after 3 almost 3 years now it’s still as good as new
Great video. Your video will help many who don't have a lot of resources during a time when gas is a small fortune every week and baby formula non existent. At least in my state. I have a question do you know roughly what someone would charge an HVAC guy to only connect the wiring and pressure check the lines and move the gas in the lines correctly. If I run all the lines and mount the ac breaker box, run the lines to the breakers and any conduit pulled with wall mount for the condenser. if I do all that what would a rough estimate be for an HVAC to come out and do that. I have had anywhere from 2-4k for a complete install running mounting testing and loading the lines for this 24000 BTU unit. Pioneer Diamante Series Ductless Mini-Split Air Conditioner Inverter Heat Pump Full Set with 16 Ft. Kit That seems a bit high to me. I would have thought maybe $500 to 1k tops. Is someone trying to molest me without even taking me to dinner or what? Kinda feels like it. Oh yeah that is with me buying the unit myself. That seems a bit high?
+Rob Burdine hope it helps everyone!
I had the same kind of quote from the HVAC guy that did my house when it was built. I had installed one before by myself except for the part you are asking about. Just that part I think was about $200 several years ago (4?), but it was hard to find someone willing to do just that part.
If you can get a pro to do that for $500-1000 it is a bargain - because that is the main part of a pro install. The areas that require actual knowledge are the ones that cost $$.
Pressure check the lines=- nitrogen, bubble tests, possibly re-flaring.
Vacuum the lines = a Micron Gauge ($200 tool) and a really good vacuum.
Charging the lines = that is actually the easiest step in the whole process, unless the two previous ones were done incorrectly; then your coolant will be lost and it will cost you $3000 to re-do the pressure check, vacuum, AND reload the coolant you lost.
My HVAC guy thought $350 to install the line set and connect to the unit including a nitrogen pressure test and vaccuum test but no electrical. This assumes the line set has been positioned so all the HVAC guy has to do is cut the lines to match the fittings on the unit and flare the joints. Some pros want to reflare even the junction between the line set and the head unit so they want more $.
Good install, electrically you have some code violations but I'm sure you're not getting an inspection.
+cthroo303 that’s correct 😁 thanks!
What size screws you used to anchor brackets to wall for outside unit? Size drill bit?
+Samuel Allen don’t remember now, sorry
I’m planning on mounting my condenser up high in my car port. So I should be able to connect the inside unit directly to the condenser without adding any more line set. Will the unit work properly this way? I ask because someone told that the MFG says you should always have at least 10 ft of line set. I don’t understand why?
+Galen Fowler I believe they say that because the system is pre-charged and if you have less line set than they give you, then you would need to release some of the refrigerant so the system won’t be over charged for the space.
You will have an overcharged unit with less than 10 feet of line and you can have an undercharged system if you use more line than the manufacturer recommends. You should always check the charge level after installation to ensure you have a proper charge. If you want to use less line than the manufacturer says you simply bleed some refrigerant out of the system until you get to the proper charge.
What is in the tank for your pressure test, C02?
+Roy Rector I believe he was using nitrogen
So when you buy a new mini split does it already contain and come with the refrigerant?
Most do. Mine did.
Wouldn't it have been a lot easier to just run the lines from the air handler thru the wall and connect them outside? Was there any advantage to having the connections under the air handler inside?
+wiboater4 yes it would have been. But it’s much prettier not seeing those lines run down the outside of my house :)
@@HelpMeDIY I forgot you were going inside the wall.
Any advide on a PC-31 (outdoor) or PC-03 (indoor) error code? This is for a Pioneer 2-zone Inverter++ as i cannot find this code in the manual. Running 9k at 10ft and 12k at 16ft.
+@joshuajames1876 no I don’t sorry, but maybe someone else can chime in.
Does this unit vibrate alot once mounted on a wall? Someone's going to install the same unit vut worried because TV is mounted direct behind where they want to get outdoor unit installed. Thanks !
+Lorenzo Lusca no, you’ll be fine!
You'd only really have to worry if it was mounted on the siding/wood wall. The fact that it's mounted to the brick, you won't hear a thing. My two large AC units for our house are mounted the same way and you hear nothing inside the house for any vibrations..etc.
Take a shot for every time the dude says "penetration"...lol. I'm drunk already on the floor only 24 minutes into the video..
+NewShockerGuy 😂 I’ll listen for it
Just wondering... With the positive pressure test. Can you just use an air compressor instead of a nitrogen in a bottle? Or will the moisture in air be a problem even though you will remove it with the vacuum pump?
+Frank P good question. I thought we talked about that in the video didn’t we? Maybe not. I thought it was indeed about moisture, but I can’t even remember exactly why now without re-watching 😆
@@HelpMeDIYactually the video didn't go into alternative positive pressure test procedures and it didn't need to. I figured more ppl would probably own an air compressor than having access to nitrogen. I'm guessing he used nitrogen to get 150psi. Wouldn't be easy to get that with an air compressor. Which begs the question....does it need to be 150 psi. Is 100psi sufficient. I'll find out and if anyone interested leave a like and I'll post it here
no, that'd defeat the purpose. Nitrogen is used to keep it dry, if you use an air compressor you're dumping moisture into it.
I guess if you're gonna vacuum for 30 minutes you can suck all the moisture out in the end..
air compressors are very dirty too so put some filters on them. Seems pretty janky though
How long was your line set run? Any need to add refrigerant?
+Rob M probably about 7-8 feet? No need to add any refrigerant.
Excellent video! Question though. If you run the drain line outside won't it freeze up in the winter??
+Shane and Laurie Brown i won’t be running the AC in the winter 😉🍻
@@HelpMeDIY I plan on using it in the winter so should I run the drain line inside?
Plan on Using for heat in the winter
@@shaneandlauriebrown6266 wasn’t an issue for me last winter running heat
@@HelpMeDIY ok thanks!
I watched this video because I am going to install a mini split in a barn shed like the ones at Home Depot. I have watched so many install videos that it became obvious that this installer is friendly and has some good information to share, but he should not be teaching DIYers because his instruction is incomplete. He may have a good feel for torquing the connections but DIYers should be told to use the proper torque wrenches for example. The issues with electric wire in the whip need to be corrected. Just tell DIYers to get a packaged whip at HOME DEPOT or their local hardware store. The explanations about why you tested with Nitrogen were thorough and helped people how to do the job properly.
+@philipdamask2279 95% of DIYers are going to torque it just like he did and be just fine though.
I’m not an electrician, but what is the disconnect box disconnecting when only one wire is going into it?
I don’t know which disconnect box you’re talking about, but you only have to disconnect one wire anywhere along a circuit to break the electrical connection.
All these comments complaining about him not using a torque wrench on the flare nuts are missing the mark. Mike said he's been in the trade 30 years. I started even before that in the early 70's and I can assure you that nobody in that era ever used a torque wrench on flare nuts. After you mess up a few flares you gain a feel for how much to tighten. Also we were taught to put a little refrigeration oil on the threads but it is optional. If Mike has been doing this for 30 years, I bet he's got a good feel for flare nuts without the torque wrench. A homeowner may want to invest in one though.
+George Wood yes he’s great!
DIYers without life long experience should use torque wrenches but they are not cheap
The installer knows his shit old school wise, but for whatever reason won't use more modern practices which he seems to know about for the most part. I've been in the trades all my life and know when I see someone who does things the best way compared to those who do things the easiest way or less expensive way. The channel owner is learning and could not possibly know what the best way to install a mini split. I give him praise for uploading one of the more detail installs though.
Sheetrock should have extended past indoor unit for future, at least to next stud for spacklers to do a proper butt joints. Can't really uninstall indoor unit to do any adjustments once refrigerant is release without recovery and extra costs. Not that big a deal though.
Putting line set attached behind wall will be an issue if connection wasn't done proper or a new line set is needed. Garage not as important, but still something to consider.
Flare fittings, although Pioneer 3rd party line sets seem to have good flares, should be cut and re-flared with replacement nuts (which are heavier duty) are supplied by Pioneer shipment.
Torch wrench and Nylog (Now supplied by Pioneer) should be used.
Eccentric flaring tool is best for making flares(not used in video).
Pressure test with nitrogen good. Using soapy spray not so good. Should be bubble test spray like Big Blu.
Also all connections such as indoor unit to line set should be leak tested too.
Micron gauge is way to go for a pro. Can use 2 core removers to eliminate any refrigerant leakage at disconnect of vacuum hoses. Pros know what I mean. Not trying to an ass. Just pointing out a number of better practices. Although mini splits are supposedly known to be more forgiving than standard ducted A/C units.
+@bertpainter8385 thanks for the detailed feedback 🍻
Offset flare tools are better for flaring. They provide a smoother flare surface and there is less likelihood of copper tube end splitting.
Issue with just using the inability to maintain vacuum for leak detection is it provides no troubleshooting ability to discover which fitting the leak is at.
There is usually something “better”. This is ONE way to do it that works. Thanks for pointing out another option though
I went with the Mr. Cool DIY series so I didn't have to deal with vacuuming and charging the lines. Otherwise, they're pretty much identical. This is a fairly easy project for anyone with a little diy experience.
+matao87 my system was also PRE-charged, so I’ll not sure how yours would be different. You would still want to vacuum any new system.
@@HelpMeDIY On the Mr Cool DIY system, the copper line sets are actually pre-charged that use screw-on quick connect valves that do not need to be vacuumed down by an HVAC tech.
@@JustBedBugs interesting
You do not need a professional to install a Pioneer unit nor do you need to evacuate the line set because they have a Flushing Kit listed under their accessories that when used correctly, completely clears the line set of any air and moisture. The kit sells for less than $30.00. The Pioneer mini splits are a true DIY setup.
@@ranckie But have you used the Flushing Kit? I have installed 5 Pioneers and all of them lost their coolant within 2 years. When I think back I feel the vacuum stage is the most important part, and second, the nitrogen test. I am getting ready to recharge two units and this time I am using nitrogen for leak tests and a micron guage for the vacuum. That's what the pros do, and the reason they charge so much. Some of them will also tell you the extra charge is to cover the warranty calls every 2 years.
How necessary is charging the pioneer mini split?
+Itskelvinn it comes pre-charged.
10/10 💪🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼🇵🇷🇵🇷💯💯🇺🇸🇺🇸
+Rafi Taino 😎😎🙏🙏🍻🍻
1:10:45 I totally don't get it. He opens the valve to let the refrigerant into the system. Where is your freon? I saw the N Oxide tank, but no freon? Is it included, is it only avail from a pro?
+hgodtx yes, the system is pre-charged
freon hasn't been used for decades
The installation process could have been thought out better. Completing the drywall installation has been increased due to the patchs under the inside unit. The patchs are not recessed for jointing that reduce the extra height above the finished sheeting surface. Why not install full sheets? Full sheets would have prevented mudding under the inside head that increases the time to mud and costs.
+Frank Dutton I paid to have pros drywall and mud so it didn’t matter. I knew this ahead of time. Full sheets would have been more expensive, harder to transport, and harder to install. So yes, it was completely thought out 😉
@@HelpMeDIY you paid a lot more for the drywall install and finishing because of your you installed the drywall. So it did matter. It's also hilarious that you installed enough screws to hold a car to on your wall.
@@winkyfab2860 false. Was quoted sight unseen and it did not change
I am going to install a mini split in a 10 x16 barn shed that has no interior wall sheathing so I am going to install a piece of 1/2" or 3/4" plywood to mount the head unit on similar to how you approached your project.. The finished interior paneling will be 1/4". How you planned for the sheetrock will work for me, too.
Did you install a garage door that was already insulated or are you going to put styrofoam panels in yourself?
+Michael Weimorts it’s not very insulated so I’ll have to come up with something to add
@@HelpMeDIY I used styrofoam panels from Lowes. It makes a huge difference in temperature, especially if the garage door faces the eastern sun like mine. Helps with sound insulation, too.
@@mweimorts thanks!
Looks like 2x6 framing on exterior wall?
+@jiujitsujim I didn’t do the framing, but it’s a garage wall.
They are 2x6's and that makes the install easier for bending the line set to go out the wall. I am trying to do on a 2x4 wall and I may have to slant the hole through the wall.
@@philipdamask2279 ahh yes that makes sense. Thanks!
What are the dimensions of the unit inside the building?
Sorry you will have to Google. Too high for me to measure for you 😂
I would leave the fittings on the head unit exposed till you do a vacuum/pressure check if all is OK, then wrap them!!!!!
+bic woolard 👍
what size breaker did you run from the breaker box?
Looked like a 20 amp, two pole breaker in the early part of the video. 15:17
Yes, Luke is correct!
these systems are hilarious though, they require same breaker size for 240v that they do 120v. However the amp draw is half. The amps for his specific unit running are about 7 max..
No Nylog Blue?
+Jose Ramon Contreras nope
These mini splits are failing left n right installed with drain lines in the wall. The OEM supplied drain lines plug and ruin the drywall and cause all kinds of problem like mold. I have not found a HVAC place that will install them with lines in wall cavity.
Interesting. Mine is still running great. I don’t promote running it in the wall as better for sure, just how I did mine.
Will it still work if you don't do pressure test?
+Pro-duct it will work if there isn’t a leak, but you won’t know without pressure testing it.
@@HelpMeDIY ok. Understand.
I thought pressure test is to fill something in the air. Also check for pressure leak.
So it just to check press for leak.
Nothing else special.
@@pro-duct911 the vacuum is required to remove all air/moisture before allowing the refrigerant into the system.
@@HelpMeDIY oh damn. Now I learning more. Cool.
What do you charge to install?
It would depend on how hard the installation would be. I would charge anywhere from 750.00 to 2000.00.
Maaaan ..... the template they gave me is backwards. My hole should be on the left, but they told me to cut a hole to the right......
+LightGesture doh! Flip it over 😆
Split in 1/4" flare at 48:38. Hop[e it does not leak. Good job otherwise
+Tom Bo thanks! No leaks yet…
It looks like his "calibrated wrist" is a little heavy...
I'm not sure why yo placed your opening at the bottom? Hopefully you're not running your line set in the wall where it will be covered and no longer accessable?
+@jimjimjim5279 sorry, what opening at the bottom of what?
Hey you’re my UFO guy or at least your voice is the same!
+warder what’s a UFO guy? 😆 🤷♂️
I spy an S1000XR! I have some BMW's myself.
+Erik Willie haha yessir! Great bike 😎
Cutting those lines to length looks pro, but for DIY, you could just coil the excess and not have to own all those flaring tools.
Not 100% sure about this but I read another comment somewhere that you should make sure to coil excess horizontally. Don't loop it up against the wall but rather flat underneath your install or similar. Any pro wisdom about this would be helpful.
It is hard to coil up the linset without having to run it up hill to connect the linset to the compressor. It would look ugly to have a horizontal coil laying on top of the unit. I cannot find information on line sets requiring a downsloping installation but his setup avoids any upslope in the lineset.
Many ways to skin a cat. Are you going to need a metal plate to protect (so no one (you) puts a screw into them) the power line and refrigerant lines coming down the wall? Hey another step closer to moving in. 👍
+Ed A no because they don’t run through a stud.
My A/C guy “flared” the copper with a DeWalt drill bit 😢
+Danny Quiroz yikes! 😆
That is asking for trouble.
You did not check the line set to indoor coil flair fittings for leaks. A good place for leaks! Shame on you for not checking this!
You don’t need to buy the WiFi module and play around with board on MrCool, free and just plug in. Plus no hvac guy needed (more expense)
Using wrong kind of flaring tool!
I have the pioneer 18,000 btu 220v to a ge 30 amp disconnect, can anyone help me with the fuses I need for this please?
+T Patsfield the pioneer manual should say.
Are you refering to a 30 amp fused disconnect? If so install fuses called for in your manual.
All installations are the same ...you drill channel wires out .. Lines out .......connect ...test ...get air cool or hot .....not big deal☺
+Thabiso Modisane for people that have never done this that IS a big deal and can be very intimidating. This video is for those people that want to learn what to do and how to do it themselves for the first time.
These units are not as friendly as Mr. Cool for installation. More expensive equipment is needed to do the job correctly.
No hearing protection while using that drill? Come on ...
That’s what you got out of this video? 🤦♂️
I am not satisfied with mine, I was under the impression it was the same as Mr cool
+@Vanfran2 what are you dissatisfied about?
It cannot be hooked up as easily as the Mr. COOL unit that costs $400 more.
Wow, all of these experts that know how to do it better yet spent over an hour watching your DIY video. Bottom line, does it work?
+Michael Wiggs right?!?! I think that exact thing so often. Yes! Running flawlessly going on 2 years now 😁🍻