Step by Step How to Vacuum Down Mini Split Using Analog Gauges Release Refrigerant Check for Leaks
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- čas přidán 22. 03. 2024
- Detailed step by step for vacuuming down Mini Split with analog gauges, releasing refrigerant, and checking for leaks.
Amazon Link to Vacuum Pump: amzn.to/2QmQK8Y
Amazon Link to HVAC Gauges: amzn.to/3DSiBIY
Amazon Link to Mini Split 5/16" to 1/4" Adapter: amzn.to/3OuyRl1
Amazon Link to Nylog Blue: amzn.to/4anntmn
Link for How to Pump Down a Mini Split
www.hvachowto.com/how-to-pump...
By using this information user assumes all risk of use. - Jak na to + styl
I do everything around my home but have always been afraid of the HVAC system. Thanks for explaining things so well and making this feel easy. New tools and skills in my toolbox. Thank you!!
Thanks so much. I'm seventy two and have always been my own Mr. Fixit. But this was a first for me. I have watched several videos on the subject and this is the best. Articulate, concise, and Very Very helpful. Thanks so very much. Oh yeah, totally worked fine and I am now cool.
Man...great video. I've watched a dozen of these vids on minisplits. Thank you for making one just for the vacuum portion of the install.
Excellent video! Thanks for all the details.
Excellent tutorial no nonsense right to the point all this needed thank you so much
thank you I will install my heat pump this weekend👍
The low side connection... the large line that you hooked the blue line to from the gauge set... when fully opened is called being "back seated" and the pressure that is on that blue line is ONLY freon from the valve to the manifold head. There is no reason to "remove it as quickly as you can" to cap it. If that valve is opened until it stops, it will not leak out freon from the system. Remove your blue line and install the cap that came with the system. All is well. When vacuuming the system down, both of the valves should be closed and the only part you are putting under a vacuum is the line set through the evaporator (inside head). Once under good vacuum, opening both the valves fully closes the gauge set off from the condensor and prevents any freon from leaking out unless you have a bad flare on one of the lines.
People think HVAC is scary. Fortunately sellers like Senville and all the others (made by the same company BTW) make installation pretty easy. They also make HVAC repair people
Thank you you have show how to vacuum this system so all mini split requires vacuum right?
If there is outside air in the lines, then yes, a mini split needs a vacuum. There is quick connect type mini split units that don't need a vacuum and come with the line set already in a vacuum.
Do you put anything on the threads of the caps to help create a backup seal?
I use Nylog on the flares but nothing for the threads.
To which port do I connect the blue hose?
I’m assuming it it the one marked “low pressure charge plug” but I want to be sure. I seem to have two ports, and the one i think it is does not need an adapter
If there are two ports, the blue hose goes to the low-pressure big line, and the red hose goes to the high-pressure small line.
Are the two-way valve and three-way valve closed when vacuuming the lines?
For the initial vacuum, yes. They are closed because they are keeping all the refrigerant in the condenser.
If both valves are shut closed, how does the vacuum pump able to do its job vacuuming those copper pipes?
The unit is shipped in a vacuum with the refrigerant and locked in with the valves. Once the copper line set is in a vacuum, the refrigerant can be released by opening the valves.
My ac compressor and condenser have no refrigerant, so I need to do a pressure test on the whole system. Can I open the service hi and lo valves so the nitrogen can go thru both the compressor and condenser or should only the evaporator and its lines be checked? Same question to do a vacuum test? All the system or just the evaporator side?
If the valves are closed, it will only test the line set and indoor unit. Most leaks are in the line set connections, but they can be elsewhere. Basically, follow the manufacturer's manual to make sure the pressure doesn't exceed what is safe or components can be damaged. As long as the manufacturer's high pressure is not exceeded, it won't damage any components. After the leak is found and fixed, the whole system will need to be set in a vacuum.
But I want the valves open to test for compressor and condenser leaks. Is it possible?
Yes, just don't go over the manufacturer's high-pressure rating for the unit.
What line should I open first
Big one or small one
Big
The line set should not rolls so many,You should cut the tube make new flare connecting the unit for better oil return.
You can cut the line set, but it is not necessary. If the line set is cut, the refrigerant needs to be recalculated since the unit is prefilled for the 16-foot run.
A micron guage along with vacume guage will show you a lot . Your vacume guage will give you confirmation that your system has a vacume on it if it is depressing the shrader valve correctly. The micron guage will give you a much better indication of moisture in system. My guage went to almost 30 inhg very quickly. but the micron guage was taking forever to drop down. To below 500 i would like to see 300 or less on the micron guage. Then prefer it stays under 500 after about ten to 15 min isolation test is prefered. The vacume drops the boiling point of water way down. So the vac pump can suck the water vapor out of the system. I was in a hurry and very tired and connected the vac hose and it didn't depress the schrader valve very well if at all. I did not have the micron guage attached. And released the refergerant. After getting some rest i started second guessing if i had it vacumed sufficiantly. So to error on the safe side i recovered the refergerant and started vac with micron guage. Shrader valve removed 29 inhg was obtained quickly but 8 hrs later the micron level got down to 500 micron. Im assuming it took some time to dehydrate the moisture from the oil. HVAC is not my prefered line of work. I do it when required. Have most of the equipment to do it correctly. I do it when required for myself or friends and chillers at my employment. And have to refresh my memory when doing so. My point. Is if you have a micron guage avaiably. Use it.
Make a video that is simple and quick on how to use a micron gauge?
What line should you open first
Most manuals will say to open suction line first
Do have that part number for the adapter? Thanks in advance
It is a 5/16" to 1/4" adapter. A link is in the description.
Thanks, I will use 150 to 200 pounds max.
When I connect my adapter to the service valve it starts shooting out quite a bit of coolant before I can even get it closed. I noticed yours did nothing like this. Why would that be?
During installation, there should be no refrigerant in the lines until it is released, which is the last step. Refrigerant is only released after the lines are in a vacuum. If refrigerant is in the lines, it needs what is called a Pump Down done first.
@@HVAC_Mechanicsorry, yes I am trying to do a pump down. That is when I'm experiencing this issue. I think the problem is I am not confident enough to just keep screwing it on as it shoots out
When shipped refrigerant is locked in the outside unit which is only released after the line set is in a vacuum. A Pump Down it is putting the refrigerant back into the outside unit as it was when shipped. There should be no refrigerant in the lines while placing the line set in a vacuum. A Pump Down and vacuuming the lines are two different things.
Yes I am trying to do a pump down to move my mini split temporarily. The issue I am having is that it was shooting out quite a bit of gas when trying to connect to the service port@@HVAC_Mechanic
Sorry, I misunderstood. Yes, the connections need to be done quickly. A small amount will come out, but it should be minimal. Be sure the equipment is good. It might help to watch a video of it being done.
Good video, but you do absolutely need a micron gauge. Mini split manuals will specifically give a micron value to ensure a deep vacuum is maintained. Traditional
Gauges don’t tell you shit as far as vacuum depth. Dish soap will only show the worst of leaks. Oftentimes a slow leak won’t even show up using dish soap. I still appreciate the spirit of your video.
Micron gauges are good but are not necessary; analog gauges work just as well. Many installers don't even use gauges or a vacuum pump at all and just do a line set flush. Soap will find small refrigerant leaks and is a common method to find a leak and fix a leaky unit. If you have a micron gauge, use it, they are good tools.
What line should I open first
Big one or small one
I would presume the line that has the service port on it.