GM points style ignition distributor how to wire and run DIY
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- čas přidán 22. 07. 2016
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just an idea on how the GM breaker points style distributor is wired
thanks for watching and please subscribe - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Chris, I am 81 years old, not a dummy, aircraft instrument specialist USAF. I with your teaching finally understand the simple point system! Thank you I got the POINT after all these years. lol, I am building a 350 1969/70 chevy in my garage as we speak. I can't believe I did not know how this system worked. I have been building hot rods for about 65 years or so, go figure. THANKS AGAIN GOD BLESS FROM VANCOUVER WASHINGTON
im 38 now but i challenged myself in my 20s to be able to drive old carbureted cars everywhere.. most people have electrical problems that scare them to a point they dont drive farther than the gas station in their old hot rod... so now i just share it the best i can... my dad told me about the hot 12v to the coil upon starting when i was around 14
Oddly this is the only video on YT that shows how to wire a points ignition system.
points and condensor wiring has worked real good for 100 years,even magnetos have points and they used them in AA FUEL CARS,think about that,1500 horse power fired by points and condensor,all of my vehicles now are point system after breaking down in the desert 3 months ago,not going to happen again,and its just wheels,damn good job on the tutorial i'm old,i'm a master mechanic of 47 years,and schooled by gm and forgot all of this,by 1975 everything gm had a HEI setup in it,if you don't use it,you lose it,thanks again,very informative,esp the part about the run wire off the old style starters,thanks CHRIS
Thank you so much for this! just got a 70 cutlass and was needing a video like this!! This has helped me more than you know!
Thank you for this lost info I'm returning my 74 Pontiac 350 back to points after 3 bad HEI dissys and I'm old school 73years young It is now a 383 with a 428 crank not for racing but my daily driver had 165hp now about 325hp go to pass safely pull a trailer not for racing but a good boost in power back to say 1965. You are the first person who explained this so simple.
This was the best video that explained step by step on how to install the wiring
Awesome video... I’m temporarily adapting an update wiring harness to use points until funds pick up and this totally explained it perfectly! Thanks
i know its 2020 but this still showed me how to hook up the positive wire from the coil to the starter which is from 1962 chevy c10. Didnt know if i hooked it up to the ignition switch or not. Now i know, its to the starter R Letter. Thanks.
Very good video. I haven’t worked with points in decades and just bought a Buick with points. Thanks for giving me a nice refresher course! 👍👍👍👍
I LOVE THE SOUND OF A 454 , YOU MADE ME SMILE WHEN THAT BABY STARTED!!!!!! THANK YOU FOR THE INFO < VERY WELL DONE!!
Duuuuuddeeeee thank you so much! This cleared up so much for me. I’m dropping in a 383 stroker on a 57 bel air. Im scrapping the old points ignition and the 3 pole starter and running an MSD ignition system and a 2 pole starter. I’ve been scratching my head trying to learn how the original wiring system works so I could convert it over to my new set up. This video made my life so much easier. Thank you for your knowledge.
ask me anything... i know everything about what you are doing... you dont have to ditch the starter, btw...
Chris Craft
Yeah dude understanding the purpose of the ignition component makes such a difference. I bought a 383 off of Craigslist and it came with a complete MSD ignition system, and a 3 pole starter. So when I wire up my MSD ignition could I delete the “R” terminal to the coil?
exactly
Thanks Chris. Got my 69 Camaro running today after watching this.
make videos.. we all want to see a 69 camaro in any shape
Thanks. Trucks running because of your video! Keep making videos!
Very good video I really appreciate the information and the way you laid everything out
Thank you!!! I’m sorting out a 56 Oldsmobile at the moment and this helped out a bunch. Now I just have to figure out what wires go to what and I can put it together
thank you for posting this. It is very helpful
Great video, also here in Belgium :) hope to get my 83 Trans Am MSE to start, it has this old style ignition installed by Mecham in 1983 but now it won't start anymore, we will check all the wires and systems as you showed! Thanks!
Dude! Wish I would have seen this BEFORE I swapped to an HEI lo. Still this was immensly helpful. Thank you so much, I finally understand how points distributors are wired up and much more.
One of the clearest videos still to date on CZcams on this subject LOL Nice work man!
Amazing video. I’m a Navy veteran, going through a separation with wife, and need to get my 1970 c10 started asap I’m moving out this weekend. Wish me luck bro!!!
I hope it works out for you.. feel free to ask me anything... I know all about those trucks.. I built a 67 CST before youtube.. GOOD LUCK
@@chriscraft77022 thanks brother I really really appreciate you. America 🇺🇸 needs more people like you
For nickizcool I went thru that 55 yrs ago,best move I ever made,and was carefull that I never stepped in that pile of crap again. Your doing the right thing.
@@chriscraft77022I'm going to get rid of my electronic distributor on my 77 chev impala,( question) can I just cut the ends off of my spark plug wires on the distributor end and buy different ends & put them on instead of buying new wires, do parts stores have them to sell? Thank you
Thanks so much for your videos, because of your videos you have made my restoration so much easier
great video, thank you for the breakdown...very very helpful!!
Thank you! Bought a 72 CS and been trying get it sorted out. Think I got it.
Another great video brother!!😉👍🏻👍🏻🇨🇦
thank you for the vid,,i really didnt know any of this,,,im a new tube backyard mechanic,,it is my first rodeo,,and ive decided to do all my own work on my dads old square body he left me when he died,,i am currently putting back together the top half of the 350 small blck,,now with 305 heads new edlbrock intake,,deleted air conditioner,,,and the same dirty old distributer,,,,,,,lol nothing looks the same so,,,thank you for your knowledge,,,
Good, easy to understand video. Good job Chris.
Great video, Thanks! I'm carrying an old Blue Streak uniset for my distributor because my '66 Pontiac came with Pertronix which I'm unfamiliar with and fear it may give out unexpectedly like GM HEI modules do. I think the woven covering on the old GM resistor wire is asbestos. It has that color to it. If I remember right, that wire is steel, maybe, but not copper and can get really hot.
Good video man thanks this helps me quite a bit on my old 69 C10
Chris OMG thank you bought a 1973 olds supreme working on spark issues and this is perfect information thank you very much
Good video you explain everything well .. detailed
Great video
I'm struggling with a ignition problem now. This helped me quite a bit. Still not getting spark out the distributor though..scratching my head..
thank you sooooo much. your info was golden. appreciate you taking the time to show and explain what's up. you rock bro.
Well done, well said, good job, thank you you.
Good job im older owned a lot of old chevy trucks and you did a good job of explaining this video
After filing or using emory paper on the points, I always use an un coated, plain business card to clean the abrasive residue off. Just open the points and place the card between them and drag it back out. This will prevent pitting and early carbon build up.
Great and helpful man...thank you
I appreciate your explanation of the points ignition and adjustment. I will be on it tomorrow, thank you.
Very good video, trying to have a get me home setup as backup to get me home if my hei distributor fails in the area of the magnetic pickup coil.I carried an old backup hei distributor but spark to the plugs kept coming and going.I carry extra control modules and coils.This is for my 1980 oldsmobile 2door Delta88 with a 5.0L 307 v-8 engine 4-barrel carb with ac.I had purchased an early gm oldsmobile points and condenser distributor to fit engine, coil and ballast resistor as a back up at first. your video helped me to understand how to wire it up.Hei distributor are good but you can't see the failure coming.I mean when they shut down they shuts down.
you learn to carry an extra ignition control module in the glove box... thats what leaves you stranded on the HEI
Nice video but one point of clarification. The manual states never to use emery cloth to clean the points. Use only a points file designed for that purpose. And, do not attempt to remove all roughness from the contact surfaces unless they are badly pitted. A simple dressing with the file is usually all that is needed for proper operation.
flat surfaces are needed if you set the point gap using a feeler gauge. if you use a dwell meter you don't have to worry about the surfaces being flat but they should be smooth, not rough.
great video, I love your videos, cause I own 72 Monte Carlos,,, Typical 350's but I also have a 72 Custom, with BB and factory Tach, which is not working/hooked up.
This video has saved me so much time and trouble. I'm installing a 67 Chevelle motor into a custom application. Thanks so much!
The diagram was very helpful. Thx.
Great detailed video
First time working on a points system. I’m doing a time up on my stock 57 Bel Air with a 283.
thanks for the video...it helped!
video is an absolute lifesaver, thanks
Thanks for info.! ...Newk from Kentucky
Great wiring diagram thanks , I'm redoing my landcruiser and going to do it like you have yours
I would wire it back land cruiser but it probably is very similar anyway
Don't worry about the hater s they will always be I've done this type of work most of my life just forgot how to old age is getting to me thanks for your time billy
Great easy to understand video , good job
Keep it up
Thanks
Do you need a ballast resistor if there is already a resistor wire in the harness coming from the ignition switch?
I love this video man you the best
Cheers heaps mate from
Australia building my burnout car an I’m gona use this as my starter harness cheers
Points ignition is underrated
Thanks for info
Thank You ! Good job ! Right now I'm trying to hook up a coil on a 55 Chevy Belair 6 cylinder I'm not doing very well
In 1955 the Chevrolet mounted the 6 cylinder coil up side down , I could never understand why , I finally found out why , to save money on the length of wire, remember they made one million 300 thousand cars
This video help me so much
Interesting….I’m going through and checking everything on this Buick 455 I built and on my coil I have a capacitor not a resister hooked to the positive side. This video was helpful though, just wanna make sure it’s all perfect before I fire it up for the first time.
the cap would do the same as giving it 12v when cranking from the starter.. the resistor is because the car is 12v not 6v .. the wire on yours should be resisted down too..
i have a 76 monte carlo there a power wire running behind the engine an runs inside the fire wall but it also runs to my alternator and to distributer is that correct?
Great video!
great video
I had 69 Camaro that had a high and variable tach reading, turned out it was a bad voltage regulator. We were running a stock set up and wiring harness.
Great video! I got a 62 Impala with a 327, the guy before me had everything ripped apart and the wiring wasn’t color coded right so I was pulling my hair out trying to figure it out, I watched your video and I wired it in 10 mins! Thanks! I really want to go electronic ignition though and have a Mallory street king distributor, it has 3 wires coming out of it and the old one has 1 wire like yours in the video, it also has a plug on the cap and I am not sure what all I need to switch it over, can you please let me know? I am not a big points fan! Too much trouble, and at high rev they just aren’t capable of keeping up like electronic does!
I went from points to electronic. I bypassed the ballast resistor, electronic Chrysler dizzy with after market module fixed, new 12v coil. Tach was reading high and the engine would stall after a big rev. Ended up being the wrong 12v coil, so I bought a Bosch BIC290. Fixed it all.
After market high voltage coils will burn out your stock 7mm spark plug wires
Edward Alamo the leads are fine but the coil just expired!!!
I have a 71-350 on the stand ready to go in it,but had this prob with the old 283,cleaning parts now to go back with the 350
Don't mind the haters Chris! This is helping me wire my 83 k10 and understand how it works.
In 1978 I bought my sister and brother-in-law 1970 SS that bought new , on the breather it had a sticker 396/375 hp all stock had 115000 miles on it , 400 the it always ideld at 1100 rpm sitting still in drive.
I always used a dewell meatore to set my points which was around 32 d with the vacuum line off
HI, and thanks for the great video. I was wondering if you could help me with two questions about the ignition coil that I can't find --ANYWHERE--:
(1)Is the internal secondary wire connected to the "+" or the "-" terminal of the ignition coil? (2) In which directions are the two coils wound, say, looking down at the top of the ignition coil? Also are they wound in the same or opposite directions?
Thanks again...
This is a great video by the way. I was wondering is it necessary to run ballast resistor type wire with it's connections? I noticed you are not but they may get hot and probably should use the heat shielded wire? What do you know on that? thx
Don't worry about the haters not everyone can understand what you're talking about. Thanks about the resistor though I didn't even think about that!!
Took out my old GM points distributor and coil. Got a PerTronix Flame Thrower stock look and a Flamethrower Coil. Can’t get my chevelle to start but it turns over and my positive battery cable starts to smoke as I’m trying to start the car up bro needs some help!!!
Chris my condesor is installed horizontal bolted to the intake is that from GM or previous owner with bracket and everything
I would like to see a how-to video on the points and condenser replaced, set up and timed.
What is the name of the kit do I have to request in changing my ig system from points to electronic
Is this the same for an 1965 Cadillac Fleetwood? My resistance wire from the ignition was burned to crisp.
Tks buddy.. Helped me alot.. Cleared up all the other circuits clutter for me by drawing the diagram on the white board..
😢can I just change the terminals on the distributor ends of the spark plug wires instead of buying new ones? Do the parts stores have them? It looks like to me all the points or the electronic module do is make and break rapidly to turn off and on the coil (on the negative side) to make the high voltage side fire. Like a switch w/8 position s. Please answer the first part,thank you.
I could be actually right when I mention that tachometers usually have a setting for number of cylinders. I would look for a switch somewhere on the meter that allows that to be adjusted. I just changed points and condenser on my 73 motorhome today with 350 ci engine it started out running like that but while it was running badly like that I turned the swell screw clockwise to lessen point gap and that caused the engine to run very smoothly with dwell of 35% as indicated on my swell/tach meter which also has an adjustment switch to go from 6 to 8 cylinders. For 4 cylinder engines it instructs to set for v8 and double reading.
I think you mean dwell
I’ve got a 1976 Chevy Itasca on a p20 chasis. I can not find out what the green wire is. After I got a new alternator put it my clusters all spin crazily. Any advice?
I use Mallory's dual points still to this day in my 327 it's the only thing that will support over 9,000 RPM unless you want to go to a MAG ignition by HEI just won't last past 8000
1974 is when Chev was going with the coil on the distributor cap
Nice
Hey bro, I just recently replaced my original starter on my 69 cutlass with a new one which does not have the "R" terminal. Im just curious as to where the remaining wire that was on the "R" is supposed to hooked up to if there isnt a spot for it
it goes back to the coil so it’s hot.. just disconnect the yellow 2nd wire at the coil... if you run points you need that wire hooked up to the starter.. if not you need to get power from the 10g purple to the solenoid to give 12v when cranking it
Thanks
I got a 95 s10 with a 283 from a 60s Chevy Chevelle (I think) the coil is mounted sideways, can you tell me why it is bad to have it sideways?
Does this coil work on a micra k11, 1996 model
Great videos , I've learned a lot , thanks! I would love it if you could answer a question for me please , I have a 71 Chevy Impala and it has points , I'm having a running out of gas symptom ,but it's not out of gas ,, could I be having a problem with my R wire ? Like if the R wire is shorting out or something would that make the car shout off ? Thanks
no
I’m working on a 472 , I have no spark, what voltage should I be getting at the coil with the key turned trying to start ?
6 to 9 volts ign on,, 12+ volts while cranking
Thank ya
My 1980 oldsmobile has no computer just the hei distributor with coil on top vacuum advance and the 5-pin module setup to regard and advance distributor timing positive or negative 5 degrees during hot startup I believe.
There's a good reason electronic ignitions are not used in boats. Point can always run, at least some, to get you ashore. There is nothing deader than a dead electronic module.
I agree... I’ve had the module go dead and GAME OVER... on a boat, though... that would be 10000000 times worse
@@chriscraft77022, I have an HEI in my '26 Tudor hot rod, but I carry all the internal parts to the distributor in the car when I drive any distance.
Hi Chris Craft, just curious, isn't the current coming at the starter & Ignition coil high voltage for 18 and 20 gauge wires? Would not 10g or bigger sizes be more suitable - and also, what TYPE of wires are better for Ign Sys ... say Copper, Tinned Copper, etc??? I'm a novice in auto and I'm just trynna learn from the well experienced. Thx!
these are the factory size wires
I figure the heavy green wire is from S position on starter to middle pole position on key switch, i see a heavy white wire under the Tach and coil wire but don't know where it goes ?
I’d drop in an HEI. Forget messing with points. HEI distributors were made from 1975 (some 1974 models) and later.
there are a lot of things you have to do when converting to HEI.. i havent got any requests to make a video on it.. most people have a factory car they want to get running.. there is nothing wrong with points.. i run electronic on my car, BTW
I HAVE A HEI DISTRIBUTOR AND WHENEVER I PLUG IT IN THE DISTRIBUTOR IT BLOWS MY FUSE WHAT IS WRONG?
On a HEI distributor upgrade do you still need the resistor? Thanks for your help.
no
Thanks.
Dude, how do you know 16.00 after you sand old points?
Buy new points and condenser, put grease on stay of points to lube shaft, rotating in car or out to 19.000, if you don't have a feeler gauge, use a the edge of points or condenser box to get close to19.000. You need to start the car and set with a dwell meter 26-31 in most cases, then set timing, then carb. That's what I know works most consistent on a 70 Z28 350 LT1 song live cam Holley carb Factory Motor. Just my two cents, this guy has some advice if you're trying to get by with use points but once sanded it's really hard to tell what year Gap would be it'll work but it's not going to work for long. If you notice your call Rev really good 1st 2nd 3rd gear and it falls flat in between it's still revs that usually means the points are flat they need to be changed if you drive it as a daily driver you might get two years out of a set of points, and remember electronic ignition is a lot better nowadays but for the purest points are still the way to go just my two cents. I still think this is a good video if you're on a budget. Points and condensers are between 45 and $55 from what I found on my recent change out if that helps.
Good information, but do you really need the distraction of the radio going in the background?
Great video..I have a question I have a 71 chevy van..my ignition switch has 7 tabs..IGN...G1...G2..SOL..ACC..and 2 BAT. tabs....at this time I have a pink wire to the IGN tab...a purple wire to the SOL tab..a brown & black/white wire to the ACC tab..one red wire to the BAT tab...two tan wires to the G2 tab and a 2 green wires to the G1 tab. I'm wondering were do I attached the yellow wire from the R pole from the solenoid??...I have the ballast on that wire..but not sure were to put it on the ignition switch. When I start the van it runs.. BUT when I release the key to the on position it shuts down??...( this is happening without the yellow wire attached). I also should mention that the purple wire is from the safety neutral switch which is attached to the SOL tab on the ignition switch..hope this all makes sense..
take the ballast off and make sure the wire going to coil is not already resisted down( covered in cloth) ..
Chris Craft .....so I keep the wire I have on now....which comes from the R on the solenoid to the + on the coil ..(which is a plain 20 gauge wire) ...and add another one to the + on the coil to the ignition with no ballast......right??.....so what tab on the ignition switch should I connect this new wire to...the IGN...G1...G2...SOL...ACC...or to the BATT?...
no.. run new 18g wire WITH BALLAST and wire it to fuse box IGN.. to + side of coil
Chris Craft ........ok .....so hook new wire with ballast to the fuse box IGN?..not to the ignition switch IGN tab...
@@petersindo6981 anywhere marked IGN on with key is fine
Hey bro what's the part number on that upper radiator hose ?? I need a hose like that bad